Guanajuato gives it up with EL CALLEJON del BESO, worthy of many kisses (1-5-16)

We moved further west for our last two days to the most adorable place we visited and instantly fell in love with Guanajuato with it's colonial feel yet somehow odd terrain on hills with dozens of subterranean tunnels that would loose anyone after a couple of margaritas. Speaking of margaritas, we asked for the bebida del casa, which here was a yummy sangria and then went on to a bottle of L.A.Cetto Nebbiolo 2011 Riserva Privada from Valle de Guadalupe. We had tasted another Nebbiolo from Cuna da Tierra, a winery we visited several days earlier, and this grape has really taken well to the Mexican climes.

El Callejon del Beso is named for the famous street nearby where everyone kisses amidst the fable of the girl who tried to run off with her student boyfriend as she kissed him on this so narrow street that their balconies touched. Alas, her father did not agree to the match and as they kissed, he stabbed his daughter in the heart. The specialty of the restaurant is grilled hearts which are served aflame tableside and then stabbed; we refrained, but chose to started with the Crocodile Carpaccio which was delightful-a kind of earthy chicken-tasting dish which went well with the wine's big earthy flavors. Trucha Ahumada was another superb starter and the smoked trout was served ceviche style with tomato, spice, onion and cucumber. Bread came with many salsas, a kicky mayo aioli, salsa verde with avocado crema, olive oil with chilies and tapenade.

We were in heaven enjoying every flavor.

Sam spotted plain Pasta with Fineas Hierbas and chose that while Will and I tried two mains from the famous grill:
Pulpo a la Plancha which offered up huge chunks of tender octopus with lime and an olive tapenade salad

Corte a la Casa was a huge steak with potatoes, chilies and oil that we could not finish but was as tender as could be. It was fun to try the various dishes with the aioli and different salsas as well.

We were full, but could not resist the description of dessert, Pan de Nopal, which literally is nopal cactus bread, but here it was a whimsical creation of a desert scene. The cake was moist nopal cactus with caramello sauce and cocoa-which was like the dusty sand, sesame, lime and apple with a strong alcoholic sauce (I assume tequila or mescal) and the while thing was topped with a crunchy grasshopper....YUMMY,

Sam loved his red velvet cake made with Philly Cream Cheese and a huge spun sugar dome (the dome is missing on FB--sorry).

We had only been in Guanajuato for hours, but we were already in love with this charming town!

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MOXI in San Miguel, home to Chef/Entreprenuer Enrique Olvera, makes a mean meal, but needs some work in service (1-4-16)

we wanted to save the best for our last night in San Miguel, and also since uber-super-star Mexican Chef Enrique Olvera's Mexico City restaurant, Pujol, was closed for the holiday, we chose his MOXI, meaning "craving" in the local Otomi language. Even though this is only several hours north of the capital, Otomi is more akin to Native American Indians than to the Aztecs who hailed from the now-capital region to the south.

The setting was as elegant as it got in San Miguel, with crisp white linens and crystal in a semi-outdoor setting; of course, we had cigarettes and cigars again! How can these great chefs allow that?

Our sever was slow to bring menus and even slower to take the order and sometimes we have to hail the team down for anything we wanted. They were severely understaffed for a Monday night after a long holiday weekend and tables of Mexicans were flowing in and filling up the previously empty place when we arrived. Bui (Mexican bottled) water was poured and served with a choice of cucumber, lime or spiced orange which was a nice touch, but I have to say it was od that no amuse ever appeared.

The tasting menu was irresistible for 950pesos(about $55US) so Samuel & I went for that as Will still had a bit of queasiness for several nights earlier. He chose the Smoked Tuna Tartare with Radish, Cilantro, Roasted Chile and said it was good, but still not as good as mine! His main course was the Purslane Sea Bass with Shrimp Mole which was a good dish, but again not prize-winning  like the items on the tasting menu. We ordered glasses of Blanco de Mogordito 2012 Valle de Guadalupe which was a superb Sauvignon Blanc/Chardonnay blend that worked with Will's fish as well as my first dishes.

Sam & I were presented with the Zanhorias organicas, queso cabra, aceite guajillo, lechugas & crouton. A simple starter salad of carrots, goat cheese, guajillo chili oil, lettuce and croutons which excelled from the chili/lime vinaigrette. Next came the winning Tamal de Elote Dulce, Crema Acida, Queso de Rancho which was a huge bowl filled with creamy sauce masking a sweet corn tamale topped with sour cream and farmer's cheese. Each bite of the tamale got spicier and spicier and built as we discovered it was sitting on a small pool of habanero salsa. Both Samuel & I adored the dish and could have eaten more.

Sopa de Friol,Camaron al Ajillo was a bean soup with garlic shrimp, deep fried corn and epazote and Samuel passed his to Will as he won't touch fish (except salmon and the rare tilapia). Lucky for Will as this was another hit dish bursting with flavors and love.

Sam would not part with his Pumpkin Risotto and Squash Blossoms, although he did give me the two blossoms. The dish was devoid of spice and made a complete turn around from what came before; perhaps a palate cleanser and perfect with the winning red wine we ordered, Ala Rota 2011 from Valle de Guadalupe which was a blend of Cabernet Sauvignon/Petite Sirah/Merlot/Malbec & Tanat which at first was fruity and then turned earthy. Essences of beets and blackberries were abounding, and Will found rubber??

For the main course of the tasting menu we had a choice and Samuel went for the Beef steak with Mushrooms and Pickled Nopales (of course, Will & I ate those--YUM) and I adored the Rack of Pork with Radishes, Watercress, Purslane and Beans. It was crunchy on top and just the right portion so as not to overwhelm. Dessert was Yogurt Jelly, Melon, and Cucumber infused with Gin which was actually a sorbet and oh so refreshing. Chocolate truffles and cookies arrived and the night ended better with improved service and a truly terrific tasting.

I did ask where Chef Olvera was as his Mexico City place was closed and I was told he had spent New Year's in NYC at his new sold-out-all-the-time spot COSME (where I am sure the tasting menu must have run well over $100-200!!)...we got that deal, but in NYC you don't have to pay airfare!

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Mexican lunches are lovely at San Miguel de Allende's HECHO in MEXICO and Bernal's EL MEZQUITE (1-3,4-16)

During our several days in San Miguel we had huge breakfasts, but there was always time for lunch (or a churro with cajeta..or chips with salsa on the go) when touring.

One lunch at the very American HECHO IN MEXICO  had chips and salsas on the table as we sat down and we always love to compare the salsas. Here the green was milder and creamier, while the red was smoky and intense. Samuel tried Chicken Fajitas with guacamole and French Fries; how Tex-Mex is that! Will (along with our guide Aaron) always went for the filling and tasty Sopa de Tortilla made with Gouda cheese, chipotle, avocado and chicken. Aaron was hungry and also ordered Fish & Chips, the quintessential Mexican dish served with Malt Vinegar of course (Aaron seemed clueless what it was for, but we quickly explained).

My Cochinita Pibil was a superb pile of slow roasted pork with achiote/habanero sauce, grilled Nopal Cactus and a tasty Jicama salad that cut the chili spice. Toritllas are always served fresh on the side for making a wrap, but I needed to cut back on the carbs at some point.

The next day took us to the small adorable town of Bernal, where I am sure we bought everything in sight from leather to pottery to wool to ponchos. Bernal is renowned for having the third largest free standing monolith on earth, only Gibraltar and Corcovado (in Rio) surpass, so our table at EL MEZQUITE had a clear view right to this monstrous rock, called Pena de Bernal.

As we sat salsas arrived with pickled vegetables (carrots, chilis, nopal cactus and more) as well as chicharrons to dip in the salsa. Sam went plain with Cheese Quesadillas and Guacamole, Will went for a soup, here Sopa de Albondigas with Chipotle, Avocado and Meatballs. I have come to love the salted beef called Cecina, which I ate for lunch and often had with eggs and salsa for breakfast. Here the Cecina Fresca was a huge slab of beef with enchiladas huastecas (local cheese filled with salsa) and a side of salad as well as refried beans. Full? YES!

San Miguel's LA CANICA, open only a month hits the firmament with Street Food by two Michelin Chefs (1-3-16)

Just weeks before leaving for Mexico, I spotted a small article about two Spanish Michelin starred chefs opening a small joint in San Miguel de Allende called LA CANICA. I emailed the concierge and he had no clue, but after persisting, we got a reservation and what a treat it turned out to be. We were welcomed at the door by Chef Bruno Dominguez who had moved from Madrid and joined with another Spanish Michelin-star winner, Paco Roncero, and ushered to ur table in an adorable courtyard.

Alas the chairs were quite tinny and uncomfy though saved by a thinnish cushion, and the tables had rungs across where your legs went, so it wasn't actually a place you would linger for hours. But then, the live music started with Mexican/American entertainers alternating all night and it wasn't loud, just pleasant and real mood setting; the huge antique fountain at the center didn't hurt either. We loved the modern artwork, especially a number of art mirrors which we ended up buying on of.

Our super server Cesar, helped us decipher the simple menu of street food combining Mexican and Spanish flavors, but before this he brought over shot glasses of amazing house made herbal/guava infused Oaxacan Mezcal  with spiced orange slices. The orange arrived after I had gulped down the wondrous liquor, so he quickly refilled my glass. YAY! we ordered Mezcal Maragritas with chili-salt rims made with the special herbal mescal, and it was so good, I had a second. I asked if the drink had a name and they said no, so ia sked the name of the woman at the bar making the drinks; within seconds we dubbed the drink the Mexcal Perla! Popcorn arrived instead of bread, making it easier to order more alcohol! We asked Cesar about the wine list and he asked, "red or white." after choosing red, he brought over 5 or 6 bottles and we chose Incognito, 2013 Valle de Guadalupe made from Merlot, Cab & Syrah which was a nice wine to go with everything.

Plastic plates and small napkins are the norm here, which was fine as we had a napkin holder on the table to keep grabbing more as this was big time messy finger food.

I started with the rich creamy Iberian Croquettes made from potato, Jamon Iberico (from Spain), pepper puree and micro greens on top. Will went for the Grilled Pizetta with smoked salmon and goat cheese, which was a huge tortilla-like pizza that could have served two as a starter, and Samuel bravely chose the awesome Tempura Asparagus with Bacon (spelled "beacon") cream and teriyaki; it may sound off the wall, but it tasted great.

Sam went on to have the Thai Burger which was a monstrous beef burger with Asian recipe spices, onion, ginger on a monster bun served in a Spider man lunchbox with chips. We noted all the burgers came in these adorable lunchboxes as Hello Kitty was at the next table. Will had Fish Tacos & Panaengnuu Sauce, which nobody could pronounce and they simply declared it was red curry; another hit.

My Beef Chamorro Poboy was the biggest sandwich I have seen since a NY deli loaded with corned beef. Smothered with caramelized onions, guajillo chilis and a ginger crema, the dish had to be a pound of bbq meat that was smoked perfectly. There were some bits of gristle, which I was wont to spit out to be couth, but I had to, and I still left a ton as doggie bags don't work when you stay in hotels. This came with amazing homemade potato chips as well. We have come to love the local chip ladies on each corner...our favorite are the cheese-chili chips which are bagged covered with lime juice and then sprinkled with hot salsa which you can eat on the go--what fun!

We were way too stuffed for dessert, but this little find is a new star in the Mexican heavens.

San Miguel de Allende is amazing for food when you eat at APERI (1-2-16)

Our second night in San Miguel took us to Aperi where Italian-Mexican Chef Matteo Salas serves up some of the best food in town. The small dining area is indoors in an almost homey living room setting with Modern Mexican décor and dark woods which is open to a beautiful garden full of trees and plants AND SMOKE. We learned that many dining spots allow smoking in the outdoor areas, which are often connected to the indoor ones. This can be a problem for those of us who like to enjoy our food without inhaling tons of nicotine. Luckily, it was not continuous.

An amuse arrived of Rice Chicharron with leek ash and avocado gel; this was a good clue that the food here was going to be different. The drinks here were novel as well and while Will went for a more traditional Grand Marnier Margarita with agave, tajin, polvo de chipotle, Tequila Reposado, Grand Marnier, lime and a chile jalapeno rojo rim, I opted for KALE: a mix of Mezcal, nectar de agave, lime, ginger and kale shrub pulverized with grated kale leaves and a salt rim. It tasted very much like jugo de verde, which I always drink for breakfast in Mexico and adore, but here with an alcoholic twist.

Will and I decided to split the Beet Salad to start which was brought to the table under a large glass dome full of smoke and was released in front of us with great dramatic flair (check out my FB page). The dish was composed of pickled and grilled beets, goat cheese, horseradish cream, balsamic & beet juice gel (this was really like a rich jello), pecans and baby spinach; Mexican salad making at its best. Samuel chose the Artichokes & Fennel which was a combination of both veggies grilled (although he chose to omit the smoked provolone cream) with breadcrumbs, Kalamata olives, fennel oil and lemon juice. While not a big fennel fan, these were the mildest versions I have ever tasted and the dish was indeed impressive.

Our wine arrived and somehow the bottle of Quinta Monasterio 2013, Sinfonio de Tintos from Valle de Guadelupe was ice cold; somebody had screwed up. We later learned it came from the cellar a bit warm, and the manager went to chill it quickly, but forgot it! OOPS! We really could not appreciate the wine for almost 20-30 minutes until it came back to room termperature.

We has tasted ESQUITE in Mexico City and it is a new favorite, so Will tried this version of Roasted Corn in corn broth with fresh chickpeas, fava beans, smoked Cotija cheese, lemon mayo and chile powder which was a new top choice for this dish!

I started with the baby Squid which was flash cooked in brown butter and lime and served with a gigantic charred Oyster Mushroom and confit of Leeks (spelled leaks on the menu!) as well as sea beans, which are a salty miniature bean that resembles seaweed. I loved the way the salt worked with the squid, which was cooked perfectly and so tender. I love calamari, but try to avoid the fried version; this was a great take and won my prize.

Since an Italian was in the kitchen, pastas were on the menu, and Sam could not resist the Tagliatelle with tomato, parmesan, olive oil, and basel, which was as simple as pasta can be and gone in a matter of seconds.

Will went for the Suckling Pig, cooked at low temperature which had soft juicy meat and an amazingly crunchy crispy skin with potato puree (spelled pure on the menu) as well as leaks (sp!) and lemon vinaigrette.

I loved my Seared Duck Breast with spices and a huge slab of seared foie gras, sweet potato pure (sp!), butternut squash, seasonal chutney and wine reduction with balsamic and spices. The sauce was very Mexican, but the preparation was the finest duck I had had in some time.

Desserts could not be resisted here and Will tried the Arroz Con Leche, a rice pudding with cajeta, the amazing goat's milk caramel that we have come to love (we brought a container home and it is best on churros!), caramelized rice chicarron, caramel popcorn, dehydrated yoghurt and goat yoghurt ice cream; need I say more.

I could not resist the Artisanal Cheeses as in Mexico the cheeses tend to be simple. These were all locally made in San Miguel, Jalisco and Michoacán regions and obviously catering to Chef Matteo and his tradition.

Alpenzeller was a stinky version of parmesan, crumbly and yummy

Goat Camembert was gooey and creamy and probably my favorite

Crottin was a traditional creamy goat

and Smoked Provolone was a treat as in Mexico hard cheeses are rare.

The next day we actually visited a cheese farm and I think the provolone may have come from here as it tasted similar. The cheeses were served with toasted Italian/French bread and such, but the big treat was the xoconostle (cactus) jelly; a true local take on our quince or guava, which I always do not care for.

We had the pleasure of meeting Chef Matteo after dinner and he announced that he is appearing on the soon to air Top Chef Mexico on Telemundo/NBC Universo. I have emailed their HQ asking if we can see it on USA cable, so if anyone out there hears about it, please let us know!!

New Year's Eve Celebracion Barocca at Dulce Patria is a precious experience(12-31-15)

We did not want a hotel party or a mediocre dining experience for New Year's Eve, so we chose Dulce Patria, the elegant dining destination of Mexico's top female chef, and indeed on of Mexico's most famous chefs..Martha Ortiz. We arrived early as we expected tons of traffic on the holiday, so we had to wait about 15 minutes before they even opened the doors at 8pm. Our table was a sigh to behold, with leatherette and feathered masks, beautiful flowers and elegant Riedel crystal and china. I was happy already. The menus were printed and Samuel chose to have the children's tasting menu which was just as good as ours, but cost 1/4 the price!

Our server Gonzalo was a gem and asked exactly when each should be served during our 3-3/4 hour extravaganza.    Istarted with a  cocktail made from Pubela apples with tequila and wild lavender that was yummy, while Sam had a Mandarin soda that lit up (catch the photo on FB) for the holiday. Will was not drinking so he had a hibiscus water with cucumber. We all enjoyed the Smoked jalapeno chiles with ranch cheese and sweet tomato which were actually covered with a crunchy crust. The spice here was milder and indeed the cuisine was Mexican with a refined French flair of sorts. Breads arrived and we wanted to try them all but could not. Each different roll had a filling such as chipotle-cheese, mole, beans, or nogada....they were all amazing.

A sextet of string musicians and Mexican guitar-like instruments played, often the same music and especially Vivaldi's Four Seasons, but it was very nice and again quite elegant and classy.

I think our favorite course for all was the Cream of Young Corn Soup with Poblano chile strings and corn...it was not spicy at all and truly a divine corn soup.

I started with a Pionero 2014 Merlot-Tempranillo-Cab blend from Baja that I liked. My second wine was Casa Madero 2013 3V with the same grape blends and I didn't even finish it. Tops was the Hemisferio 2011 blending Petite Sirah & Merlot with yummy jammy notes, another wine perfect for mole.

The main course for Sam was Chicken breast breaded and baked (Milanese) with maize and cheese and rice with vegetable stars which was a huge portion for any person, let alone a child, but he adored it. We had the Beef Ribs with strokes of talavera(it means workshop) and old-style mole, which was explained as the Baroque style of cuisine from olden days. It came with tortillas which we did not even touch as we were so full. The dish had yummy plantanos with queso fresco, but alas the meat had some gristle making it not the best option. The accompaniments were corn gnocchi, mini grilled corn cobs, zucchini circles and so much more that it did not matter.

The first dessert was Red Pipian Ice Cream with caramelized fruits and seeds. The ice cream sat on a bed of spices and salt and these changed the flavor of the ice cream itself into an almost love-hate relationship as some spices were yummy and others not so much. It was a novel treat for sure.

Next came Baroque Almond Cake with Three Rompopes and roses of Castilla which was a divine egg, alcohol and peanut cake with pistachio nut sauce that I oohed and aahed over as I so rarely like cake.

We had heard that Chef Martha was amazing at desserts and yet more arrived with sugared grapes and a glass of Mumm's from France. We toasted the New Year as it was now just 11pm (midnight at home).

Adorable Mexican mini-wooden chairs on a platform came with even more treats of cahela(milk cream), apricots, chocolate and amaranthe, tamarind-nut and chile jellies. We took these home and are still munching them 2 days later.

The excitement did not end as we had the pleasure of meeting Chef Martha Ortiz on the way out and having our photos taken with her.

What a night!

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Mexico City's Guzina Oaxaca wakes anyone's palate (12-30-15)

The next night I ended up dining alone as Will stayed in the room for chicken broth and Samuel was very tired and joined him.

I headed to another uber-Mexican chef's domaine, Guzina Oaxaca, where the cuisine hails from the south coast region of that name.

I started with my best "margarita of sorts" ever which was a Pepina/Mezcal cocktail with cucumber and lime as well as an awesome salted-chili rim on the glass.

As soon as I sat down a young waiter arrived and asked me what ingredients I wanted in my table-side made salsa. I chose all and went for the picante. A video can be seen (as well as the regular photos) on FB! No questions, this was the best salsa I have ever had with huge chunks of tomatillos and tomatoes as well as a dash of onion, cilantro and of course chiles and garlic. Blue corn and white corn crispy tortilla "chips" were for dipping.

The manager Ernesto helped me through the menu but I knew I wanted the famous Cazuelita de Lengua al oregano which was a thick stew of tongue with a wonderful sauce with a hint of lime. Tortillas arrived made by a woman at a stand in the front of the very small establishment with probably no more than a dozen or so tables, making this a very desirable spot with a long waiting list. It is very casual and simple though.

Some folks at a nearby table asked to buy tortillas and Ernesto said they were not for sale, but did offer me a take home batch of salsa...which I kindly refused as I knew it wouldn't keep in the hotel fridge as it was not cold enough.

Ernesto said not to worry that I couldn't choose between the starters as he would be bring over a bowl of the famous tiny grasshoppers with chilies and lime. I ate most of them and they were superb.

A white from  Valle de Guadalupe Hilo Negro Invisibile which was Sauvignon Blanc and that was excellent with the grasshoppers as well as  with my main course of Red Snapper wrapped in Hoja Santa Leaves in white wine and garlic. There was a divine rice underneath that was gooey and stretchy with what we would call Queso Oaxaca, but the Oaxacans call it simply Quesilla, as it is their cheese. Ernesto brought some over that was shredded and it tasted like a dry version of mozzarella, which made for a great blend with the rice.

Dessert was an Obleas de Maracuya which I would call a passionfruit Napoleon as it was wafers with a passionfruit and pasilla chile cream that was superb, but too rich for me, even though Ernesto insisted it was light.

I left hoping to return here again as he menu was huge and I only tasted a tiny portion of the excellent Oaxacan cuisine.

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Quintonil for quintissential cuisine that is modern Mexican in Mexico City (12-29-15)

We had been very excited about our last three nights dining in Mexico City as they were three of the top places in the city and indeed the country (and two other top places were closed for the holidays!).

We headed to Quintonil. Quintonil has received "top 50 restaurants in the world" for 5 or more years now!

We saw the tasting menu (10 courses) and gave in immediately, especially at the 1100 peso price, which is $66US! Sam started with the String cheese sup with fried pork belly and plantain which he loved but declared way too rich and then went on to a main course of Chuck eye wagyu beef in "pulque" with corn and dried chiles demicglace, which came later in the overall scene, but was gone in seconds nonetheless.

We started with a bottle of Emblema Sauvignon Blanc from Paralelo, 2014 in Valle de Guadalupe was very smooth with a light citrus taste on the back palate. The sommelier, Daniel was most helpful and suggested the Unico Gran Resrva 2009 of Cab/Merlot which we had before several years back and is truly one of the best Mexican reds that goes with everything.

The restaurant is small and simple with firm benches and seats, wooden walls and large mirrors on them, which Will hated as he faced one. Unique ceramic plates were used and Spiegelau crystal was a big plus for the great wines.

An amuse of Nopal (cactus) ceviche with onion, vinegar, chiles and cucumber was a treat and then the peanut bread arrived hot from the oven with black bean dip with oja santa, butter honey and huitlacoche honey. Housemade tortillas came in an adorable hand-knitted white basket. Of course, salsas of red and tomatillo arrived as well.

Most of the dishes had local edible flowers, which I always say have little or bad taste, but they are always so pretty and here some larger pansy-like colorful ones were beautiful.

Course 1 was Mexican herb salad with Cotija cheese, grilled tomato and an herb emulsion. The word herb here in most important is that is the essence of the name quintonil itself. Herbs that are rare and unique are used in every single dish making for quite unique and wonderful flavors not available anywhere else on earth. The greens included Purslaine, mint, gasanta (which comes from Oaxaca), cilantro and more, The vinaigrette was to die for.

Marlin was smoked and served in salsa verde with purslaine, fennel, red prickly pear and guacamole just lightly underneath with a hint of chilies. This was sushi/ceviche gone Mexican crazy and we loved it.

#3 was a Smoked Crab "Tostada" with lime, radishes of many colors and chili habanero mayo, which was so light the mayonnaise was almost not there, but the flavor was a great binder (think crab cake with a punch). The tostada was made from corn, but tasted like a rice cracker and was corn-chili dusted as well. This dish beat the previous night's crab tacos by a million miles.

#4 was glazed mushrooms with "escamoles" (ant eggs), chile powder and huitlacoche puree. Daniel suggested we try the red with this and it was brilliant and imbued the intensely flavored fungus dish with even more essence.

More funghi came next in the form of a refreshing Cuitlacoche(they use a variant spelling) broth with seaweed and squash blossom serving almost as a palate cleanser.

Course #6 was the fish course and was Sea Bass with "Chile Guajillo" puree, ayocote(black, green and red radish), black beans, "chile guero" (blond chili) and pineapple pico de gallo. The latter two were actually small puree dots that appeared on the plate to allow you to dip the dish in and get different flavors and essences.

It was at this time that Will departed the table only to return and state he needed to go back to the hotel. I won't blame this mishap on the food as we later discovered he probably had an allergic reaction(possibly due to his asthma) to any one or more ingredients that he was not used to. We ate exactly the same food ALL DAY, and I was fine.

The main course arrived in Course #7 and it was the same dish Sam had just finished, so he gobbled down Will's wagyu with pulque...Now we had tasted this local homemade alcoholic "moonshine" the day prior and liked it a bit, but even  more with fruit flavorings (Sam liked, yes he tasted, the pina colada, and we loved the mix berry), but here it was used for a red glaze that was simply superb.

It was accompanied by Boracha or chayote squash.

Nopal Cactus Sorbet was the palate cleanser and came with a dash of sea salt and chilis for flavor. I could eat this anytime. It was also meant to frame the meal which started with nopal amuse.

Dessert Number 1 was preserved grapes which were frozen with tomatillo, rhubarb, lemon and grass creamy foam...you figure it out.

The last course was a Soursop jelly with chocolate, avocado and coriander which was a sweet puree and Sam & I loved this but went bananas when they delivered

the piece de resistance Café de Olila (not what was in it, but it was sweet) and bunuelos (tiny sugared donuts).

A bag with take-home gifts of "punche" or jellies of hibiscus and guava, marshmallows, mandarin marmalade & cocoa and so much more kept us busy remembering the night for days.

Sadly, Will was quite ill, but there were no ill feelings for Quintonil, and I daresay, I would jump at the chance to return.

Casa de las Sirenas supplies super food and a super view over the Cathedral in Mexico City (12-28-15)

Tonight's restaurant was located right behind the Cathedral and when we arrived we were escorted up three flights of stairs (after having climbed multiple pyramids during our day tour) to a beautiful terrace overlooking the Metropolitan Cathedral and part of the Zocalo (main square) just as the sun was setting. We prayed the food would be as good as our view and indeed it was.

Salsa rojo appeared but here it was the consistency of tapenade and packed a punch  as we shmeared it on the pumpkin seed rolls and flatbread.

We asked for the wine list and the waiter brought three bottles of red wine. When we said we were going to eat fish and wanted white, he returned with one option, luckily it was a good choice, Casa Madera Chardonnay 2104.

The starters were all superb hits from Samuel's Guacamole con Chicharon Placero with Chile Serrano, Cilantro, Onion, Tomato and Queso Fresco. The bowl was the size of cow head and was filled to the brim with at least a quart of guacamole and the chicharons were awesome. My Tostadas de Jiaba a la Campechana were loaded with fresh crab on a dribble of guacamole with tomato, olive oil, olives, capers and cebolla xnipec (a type of pickled onion). Will had the third home run with Tacos de Carnitas de Pato Estilo Mihoacan-duck confit in freshly made tortillas (we saw this at the far end of the room) and a hint or orange. The salsa rojo was just the right touch for these, as they came with no sauce of their own.

The main courses were just as good with Sam gobbling up his Rib Eye Grilled with a Salsa Estilo Chile Aceito which was made with peanut, sesame, chiles and was pasty but tasty.

Will & I split our two fish courses: Filete de Dorado con Verduras a la Parilla, Salsa de Herbas Frescas y Arroz Rosa Mexicana was a superb fresh fish with amazing veggies and a rose colored rice.

Filete de Huachinango was a Red Snapper with hoja santa y pipian and a portion of a bit too salty Shrimp with Mushrooms wrapped in a corn husk.

Will enjoyed a Corn flan with caramel/orange sauce that was okay, but won no prizes in my book.

The view and food combined for a truly memorable evening.

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The St. Regis Hotel's J&G Grill is just great

We had planned to head out to a local BBQ place Sunday, but since the hotel pool was closed and I complained, we ended up with free dinner in the hotel.

I normally avoid most Jean Georges places, but this one run by Mexican-French chef Olivier Desboise Mendez turned out to be a hit.

We sat outdoors overlooking the Paseo de la Reforma and the only thing I have to complian about is the sad brown placemat on the beautiful wooden tables and the not so comfy wooden chairs.

Our server Alejandro was super helpful and brought us way more than we wanted when we asked to try things.

A yummy mini-taquito of octopus, avocado puree and Serrano started us off as an amuse. Will started with an excellent Grilled Black Pepper Octopus with Sweet Onions & Lime, that he said should have been warmer, but I understand the just over room temp logic. Samuel made his Pumpkin Soup with Corn Truffle & Amaranth disappear in what seemed seconds, and I adored my Kale Salad with Lemon, Serrano Chiles and a hint of mint...you couldn't taste the mint, which was fine by me. The kale was marinated a bit for softness and the chiles had just the right bite.

For main courses, Samuel did a second disappearing act with the Veal Milanese which he had French fries added to, Will hit the jackpot with the Braised Beef Short ribs and Apple Jalapeno Jam which was like a smoky liqueur glaze, while I adored my Paqueta or Pacific Grouper with lemon zest & olive oil grilled to perfection with grilled nopales (cactus) as well as charred snow peas and regular peas; the veggies here were amazing. The night before we had tried to inquire what esquites were and got nowhere, but Alejandro explained it was a corn soup with mayo and quickly brought a portion, which we fell in love with. Simply put it is a corn broth with corn, avocado & mayo for thickening, lemon, chiles and a radish garnish; sounds weird but tastes great.

We loved the "Don Luis" 201 Viognier from L.A.Cetto in Baja which was acidic yet creamy and worked with everything, although Will had a glass of red with his beef, which was oddly USA Columbia Valley Cab.

We tired and liked the acidity of a Late Harvest Casa Madero 2014 Cosecha Tardia from Valle de Parras made of 95%Semillon & 5%Gewurtz, but it was oddly served in a large water glass.

Samuel devoured his Warm Chocolate Cake but left the Vanilla Ice Cream, while Will & I split the most amazing Sweet Corn Cake with Cajeta(caramel) Sauce, popcorn and Mezcal Ice Cream, to which Will commented "there's alcohol in this."

We left promising never to poopoo hotel food or a JG establishment again.

--

Porfirio's in Polanco, Mexico City is pretty good, but pretentious (12-26-15)

Our first night in Mexico City took us to a very beautiful if  extremely noisy, high end "meat joint" in Polanco that was recommended by the hotel. We were seated in a very nice, but quite dark large room in large comfy leather chairs at a huge table that seemed built to hold the monstrous trays of meats being delivered to them. There were odd chandeliers that looked like they were wrapped in plastic red cellophane as well.  We noticed video screens portraying what Sam said was a kid's play area, and sure enough we were told that on weekends they have this for the kids to run off and play; a novel idea, and I guess the parents can watch. Wrong, the video changed shortly thereafter and often had loud music videos put on by a nearby DJ, which just is not what I want when I am trying to relax and enjoy my food.

We ordered some of the fun frozen drinks called Josephina de Limon. Will had limon made with Mezcal 400, Controy (Mexican Cointreau), lemon juice, and soda while my Josphina di Pepino featured the same ingredients with cucumber instead and both had Chile Trajin lined glasses for a dash of spice, and chili flakes were also brought if we wanted to shake them on; I did. We saw fun carts going around the place which were delivering corn on the cob and we later saw it was smothered with what seemed to be mayo and then crunchy flakes and served on a raised to mouth level apparatus that allowed you to turn the corn and eat it--brilliant and fun. We even saw one dish being delivered with a smoking train to a table of some kids.

Our first server Luis spoke English, but then they switched as larger groups arrived and we got Abraham, who was nice, but his English wasn't so great. We let Samuel do the translating and he has been so superb, there are words we just cant seem to get translated as they are the same on both menus. Last night it was "esquites" which Abraham said was something in a glass? It's on the menu for tonight's dinner, so I will try and inquire yet again as it is translated as "popcorn" and "esquites" in many places; that's a ton of help!

We ordered away and Samuel explained that we wanted a rest of at least 20 minutes between the courses, as the food has been so filling and rich and we wanted to enjoy and relax. We saw the monster portions arriving around us and knew this was a smart move.

 

We had also received our wine, my favorite Mexican wine called Gabriel 2013 Adobe Guadalupe from Valle de Guadalupe which is 45% Merlot, 40% Cabernet Sauvignon and 15% Malbec yet has the most awesome chocolate flavor that makes it work so well with not only mole, but so many other intensely flavored Mexican foods. I hope it is on the menu many more times.

We had also received a pate of salsas (tomatillo, rojo(red) and mucho rojo(super spicy red). There were amazing crispy chili dusted tortillas in a stand as well as a bean dip with queso fresco and an amazing salsa made from the nopal cactus that I am in love with. At this point someone came over to take our order, yet we had done that ages ago; I felt the place was ruled by a low level of confusion.

 

Sam started with El Tamal which was a magnificently presented chicken tamale with salsa verde on top of an adorable wooden "bus," the kind that you might know from Puerto Rico, but here turned into a raised plate...loads of fun. Incidentally, once again many of the photos of these dishes from all week and future meals can be seen on my FB page....

Will ordered the Degustacion de Ceviches which were three different ones of fish, shrimp and octopus. I tasted the fish which was okay, but he said all three were exactly the same preparation; so much for variation! I chose form the daily special "Quesadillas" which had 5 or 6 different ingredients that you choose and then come with a yummy thick sour cream dip and lettuce (not sure for what), so I thought two were just the right size: Huitlacoche (a Mexican mushroom, also called corn truffle that I adore) and Flor de Cabeza, the same Squash Blossom that Will had the previous night, which was superb. Oddly, when these arrived they were giant empanadas, not quesadillas; it seems that each place uses these words as they please and it all makes no sense to me. Despite the nomenclature, they were awesome and also huge portions and I was so thankful we had asked for that break.

 

About 9 minutes after they cleared the starters, the main course arrived and we tried to explain that we had asked for 20 minutes at minimum. We were all stuffed from the dips, salsas and starters and needed time for sure, but Abraham seemed to tell Samuel that he understood 20 minutes from when he took the order to begin with...which was stupid. I had to talk to the manager, and it was all eventually straightened out, but not without them all staring at us like we were nuts; Samuel said that he overheard the staff calling us "the 20 minute people..." That said we had another 20+ minutes, time to digest and also some excellent wine on its own before the main courses did arrive all freshly redone. The folks around us seemed to order platter after platter of whole pig, whole cow, whole everything all cooked and looking amazing, but they all ate so fast. We sat down at 745pm or so and finished our starters at 845pm and then got the main courses about 925pm and headed out around 1015pm, yet the 5 folks next to us had four various monster plates, dessert and more, all in under 90 minutes! It seems Mexicans eat very fast.

 

Samuel ordered the Tacos de Suadero of steak, cilantro and onion and loved them, while Will went with the Chile Relleno Picadillo, a stuffed Poblano with ground beef, almond & tomato all in a rich thick chipotle sauce with crema. It was delish, yet the sauce seemed to have some seeds that he got super-spiced on. My Filete Tampiquena was a dream steak marinated simply and grilled to perfection so that I could enjoy all of the superb salsas on it should I want a kick (& I did). On the side was a bowl of beans which actually had potatoes and frank slices in it as well, avocado and then three miniature, but nonetheless rich and filing Chicken Mole Empanadas, which were NOT empanadas, but really rolled and not fired tortillas, hence really enchiladas...nomenclature yet again.

 

We split one dessert of Flan which was so beautiful when it arrived with a giant ball of spun sugar. The flan here was more like a vertical torte than a flat custard, but still delicious.

We had noticed that every table got this "tree" of flat colored discs after dinner and we finally got our "house gift" called Pepitoria. I wondered why they all came and nobody seemed to eat them, as they were the blandest floury discs on earth, save for the little drizzle of honey in the middle of a couple of them. They would save a ton of money if they eliminated them. On the way out we grabbed the delicious little milk chocolate logs that were on the front desk; they were yummy and should replace the Pepitoria!

Overall, a fun experience, a pretty good dinner, a price tag that would freak out anyone from Puebla or Cholula as our meal here with 2 drinks and one bottle of wine rang in at just over $200 (still a good deal compared to the US), but remember that our lunch for 4 was under $20!

 

for a lovely lunch in Cholula (near Puebla, MX) get thee to GUEROS (12-16-15)

We headed towards Mexico City with our guide Monica, who will join us again several times this coming week and had planned to spend much of the day in Cholula to visit the archeological ruins and Gran Piramida as well as the famous church built atop them, Nuestra Senora de los Remedios.

We headed into town and right on the Zocalo (main square) I led our group to Gueros where the food was truly excellent and the huge meal for all four of us with drinks and tips rang in at just over $20US!

Cecina was what Monica ordered and the salt dried beef came here on a huge plate with enough to serve everyone. Awesome salsas of green (here looking like a creamy runny guacamole, yet packing a punch) and red, warm tortillas, guacamole, and more made yummy little sandwiches. Sam loved his Chalupas, they really are taco pizzas and an order of delicious guacamole with tostado chips, while Will returned to his Sopa de Tortilla, which is a meal in itself.

I had chosen this place for its Pozole, which is not even on the menu, but famed throughout the region and it was stupendous.

Hot soup with the hominy balls can be ordered with either chicken, pork or "mixto" which I chose and it comes with every piece of every animal you can imagine cooked to perfection in the slightly spicy broth. There is a side server of chili flakes, onion, and many garnishes that you can add as you please; this was not only a meal, but an experience.

Gueros means blonds...an odd name for the place, and the "U" has two dots over it like an umlaut, changing the "u" sound to a "wu" sound, or here gweros.

whatever, it's a find in an adorable little town.

We also tasted fried grasshoppers in the market with various spices of chilis, lime, garlic and more...crunchy and tasty. The wild dish of the market was a giant round slice of jicama on stick looking like and all-day sucker that you have splashed with lime and salt and then your choice of seasonings. The hot chili is the hottest I have ever had and our lips were indeed on fire for some time, but the flavor was intense and yummy.

Off to Mexico City.

El Mural de los Poblanos is perfect in Puebla, Mexico (12-25-15)

El Mural de los Poblanos is appropriately named sure to the numerous murals by local artists covering the walls. Local folks of fame are featured in some,  and others are more abstract, but quite interesting even though  we did not know the meaning behind them. Here the décor is a colonial style room with fine linens and crystal; very upscale compared to everything else which is quite casual.

The servers were attentive handsome young men, but never invasive, like the evening prior.

We enjoyed and amuse of mini-open-taco with shredded beef, crema, cheese, lettuce and a dab of refried beans which was yummy.

Will & I enjoyed Casa Madero 2V, and excellent Mexican white blend of Chardonnay and Chenin Blanc which worked superbly to cut the spice of my starter:

Totritas de Camaron con nopales romentos en salsa de chile pasilla, which was like a floury shrimp cake in salsa with both seaweed and the nopales cactus steamed on the side, again to cut the spice on occasion. This was a rare special from the holiday menu featuring items made only at Xmas.

Samuel had a superb chicken consommé to which a number of fun items were added as he requested them and Will had the Quesadillas de Mercado con tlalitos which were corn tortillas with squash blossoms, mushrooms & Oaxaca cheese.

For the main course we switched to a yummy bottle of red Rivero Gonzalez Tinto 2012 from Valle de Parras in Coahuila, another famous wine region. Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot & Cab France was a superb blend for a great foil to my Sliced grilled Duck in Mole Poblano which was perhaps the best mole ever. It came with carrots, string beans, rice and of course more tortillas, but I could not eat any more starch.

Samuel went for a famous local special, Tacos Arabes de cordero made with spicy lamb, olive oil and jocoque which is a Lebanese sour cream all in a spicy chipotle sauce, none of which he would share.

Will had the spectacular Cecnina de Tepeaca which is top quality (strip loin) salted and dried beef with grilles nopal cactcus, refried beans, grilled gooey Panela cheese(think mozzarella), guacamole and white chorizo.

We were full but had clearly found the best food in all of Puebla..today onto Mexico City.

Casona de la China Poblano, Puebla's (Mexico) pricey and pretty spot for local cuisine (12-24-15)

After quite a harrowing delay of close to 7 hours on our flight to Mexico, we finally arrived at our hotel at about 6am on Xmas Eve, went to sleep, woke up before noon and spent the day touring as much as we could see. Dinner was early as we needed sleep. So we headed to the beautiful courtyard of Casona de la China Poblano, a pleasant colonial building in the center of town. It was deserted and as we enjoyed our meal the staff almost annoyingly hovered over us.

We started with yummy margaritas and looked around the quaint courtyard over which the hotel rooms opened up on. In the center was the larger than life statue of La China Poblano, the fabled daughter of a Mongol king who was abducted to Mexico. Well, Samuel noted that her blonde braids and fair skin made her look more like a little Dutch girl!

Amuses came in the form of mimelitas, small pizza like squares with salsa and queso fresca, which is very tasty in this region as it is indeed so fresh.

Will had a gorgeous Sopa Azteca of avocado, pasilla chilis, chicharron, queso fresco and crema de rancho, a sour cream of sorts. Samuel had the even more intriguing and tasty Taquitos Santos made from chicken and cheese, but here wrapped in root beer leaves with chili Serrano sauce that packed a punch. Think of it as a Mexican version of meaty/cheesy stuffed grape leaves, but bigger.

Sesame seed rolls with salsa verde and red salsa(hotter) arrived and we enjoyed these as well, but little did I know my starter of Las Cemitas Poblanasa "Mercado del Carmen was several miniature sandwiches with the same bread stuffed with a slaw, salsa and then some kind of small fried square of meat and perhaps ground seeds, but we never did find out, as language for food is a big problem here, even when Samuel speaks the language so well, as the dishes are so local.

We ordered a superb Santo Tomas 2010 Cabernet Sauvignon from Baja that was very full bodied and went brilliantly with the traditional signature dish of the region, which both Will & I had, Mole Poblano or chicken breast in mole with tamale, rice and full of delish flavor.

Samuel ordered guacamole as his main course, even though a starter, yet they brought an bland soup broth which he could put some things in like onion, cilantro and such; he did not want to speak up, so he ate it.

We were full and spent the rest of the evening walking through all the Xmas stuff in town and visiting churches, which was fun.

We thought our dinner was okay, but it sure didn't win any prizes for the first night. Praying for better as we move through 2 more weeks in Mexico.

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a reasonable review for REDWOOD in Bethesda, MD (12-1-15)

A while ago we won a 4-course tasting for 2 with wines at the charming Bethesda eatery, REDWOOD. It was chilly last night and wet, so we were grateful for the (albeit $4) underground parking at Bethesda Row (which is not validated for diners) and proceeded to the virtually dead restaurant at 7pm. It's quite a pretty place with lots of redwood touches such as the tables, walls, accents, etc and tall glass windows overlooking the shops on Bethesda Row (a pedestrian mall) and even lots of outdoor seating which was not in use with 48degree temps and lots of rain!

The bar was quiet and occupies a large area, but we were seating in one of two adjacent areas.

We were seated and presented with the 4-course tasting menu, which had no options at all. They also left a wine list, despite the fact that pairings were included. After our bread arrived (super hot mini-baguettes with superb whipped butter that melted so fast), a manager arrived to apologize and ask if we wanted to move to the other dining area as a group of 70 or so were expected at the bar area for a match.com event! We moved as quickly as you could snap your fingers.

Our server Nely was awesome, and she explained the menu and poured the first glass of Biutiful Prosecco, which we have had before and is okay. This was paired with a Farm Beet Salad which was a huge salad of purple & golden beets, beet greens, arugula, orange sections, whipped goat cheese and a divine Pistachio-citrus gremolata. the flavors burst in every bite and I have to say I was impressed.

Next came huge bowls of Yellow Beet Gnocchi with sliced cooked red beets, sliced red cabbage, asparagus, cherry tomatoes all in a garlic-herb butter sauce with roasted black garlic cloves and a dash of red beet cream. It was very rich and quite indulgent, so we left about 1/3 of each of our bowls, which Samuel was happy to take to school today for lunch (we told him it was veggie gnocchi, as he would never have eaten beets!).

The Mountain View Pinot Noir 2013 from Central Coast, California was an intense 13.9% alcohol pinot with lots of flavor and worked perfectly with the food.

We were quite stuffed and had a 30-minute rest before the next course arrived. Laguiole-like knives (actually Fortessa) arrived but were not needed for the very tender and tasty Wood-grilled Flat Iron Steak with grilled Asparagus and housemade steak sauce. We could not really figure out the ingredients of the "secret sauce" but knew there was an aged balsamic and a smoky element that gave it both a bitter and sweet taste. It was good, but I was not overwhelmed; Will liked it more than me. The True Myth 2012 Paso Robles Cabernet Sauvignon was divine with the intense flavors on the plate, again which part of went home for later as we were so full.

A trip to the loo had me passing the now very busy bar, but sadly the 20 & 30-somethings from match.com had left the restrooms quite a mess; don't parents teach their kids to clean up after themselves? Indeed, when Will went to the W.C. (which was how 3 of the 4 were marked), these dot.comers were all in a line waiting for the one bathroom that had a man/woman figure on it, not knowing that the three others with "WC" on it were also bathrooms!

The dessert was Flourless Chocolate Cake with Chocolate ganache and Orange segment and I cautiously asked Nely if there was  a lighter fruit option. Will loved his cake, but I adored my White Chocolate/Cranberry Whipped Mousse on Graham Cracker Crust with Cranberry Sorbet atop and dots of Cranberry Coulis. It was light and so refreshing as well, especially the sorbet. Grahams' Late Bottled 2008 Port was a delight and we waddled out with our doggie bags.

I only wish we had some choices and could have created our own 4-course menu, then perhaps we might have been a little less full, so maybe we will go back to Redwood to try some other items on the menu next time.

NYC's Artisanal Bistro is a brilliant brunch (11-28-15)

On our last day in NYC we headed to an early brunch before our flight home and joined two dear friends/clients and their 15-year old daughter, who has really grown in a beautiful young teenager.

I chose Artisanal Bistro (artisanalbistro.com) at 2 Park Avenue(entrance on 32nd St,) for several reasons: the amazing cheese menu, the great brunch choices with a bit of French flair, its convenience to the Queens Midtown Tunnel so we could easily be at LaGuardia within 15 minutes and maximize time with our friends.

We arrived and I noticed the little menu box stating $20 unlimited Bellinis, Mimosas, Bloody Marys, Beer and sparkling wine. Well after 5 drinks (that's $4 each) I was really happy. The Bloody Marys are spicy with little gherkins and large caperberries skewered on top. The Mimosas are nice and since they were out of Peach liqueur, they offered up tasty Lychee flavored Sparkling, which I had for my dessert!

Our server Andre was helpful (always refilling the drinks quickly as three of us did the unlimited package) and when you order their amazing burgers you also get a bowl of soup and either a salad or frites.

Will went with the tuna burger with Sweet Aioli Mayo and Radishes, but four of us had the Artisanal Signature Blend Beef Burger with a tasty housemade Burger Sauce (kicky 1000 Island-type) as well as Tomato, & Red Onion (many of us skipped the onions). There were 19 artisanal cheeses to choose for toppings (all for a charge, of course) but those of us that had the Truffle Tremor choose a gooey intense flavorful truffle cheese that melted on the burgers so excellently it was like a bite of heaven. The burgers were all cooked to perfection and really won us over.

The Pumpkin Soup that accompanied them was slightly spicy and just the right small portion for a snack before. The salad was okay and the fries were superb in traditional paper cones.

Our friend had the Croque Madame which also got raves for its excellent gooey cheese and perfectly fried egg on top.

It was a win win brunch and we did make it to the airport in 15 minutes with 55 minutes to spare before for our flight was to take off. Luckily that platinum level got us right to the baggage check, and global entry had us through security in under 5 minutes, so that when we got to the gate it was just time for elite boarding, and we pulled away from the gate 13 minutes early making it back to DC way before the scheduled arrival.

ANNISA is always a treat when dining in NYC's Greenwich Village(11-27-15)

After seeing new production of Fiddler on the Roof on Friday afternoon we headed downtown where I had dined at Annisa (http://www.annisarestaurant.com) earlier this year and had to bring my family back for the amazing tasting menu. The price went up $3 from $85 to $88 for the 5-course tasting which is probably due to minimal costs increase, but Chef Anita Lo could easily charge more after her recent outing to cook up a storm for the Obamas at the White House.

The rolls and butter win no prizes here, but the quiet serene simple décor makes it an oasis for a superb evening of quiet and great food.

We ordered a bottle of Gelber Muskateller from Heide Schrok (they use only female vendors when possible) 2013 from Neusiedlersee-Huggeland in Austria. Our server Narendra (who hailed from Nepal) said it had great acidity and it did. A slight sweetness hits the palate at first and turns quickly and then finishes with a long mineral flavor. YUM! Amuses were Tartelettes of Piquillo Pepper Puree with White Anchovy for a salty bite.

 

The first course arrived and I was so happy to revisit the Steak Tartare with Bulgur, Cinnamon, Spicy Sesame Tuille and Tofu Sauce, which was so good Samuel took a fork from both Will & my plates.

 

Next was the also Signature dish from Chef Anita: Seared Duck Foie Gras with Soup Dumpling & Jicama. A lesson is still needed in how to eat these as I always manage to have them explode as the Shanghai style dumpling is full of flavorful soup.

 

For the third course Samuel has a superb rich Chestnut Gnocco which is a brick-like pate form of chestnut with Grilled Maitake Mushroom (which he would not eat), Fried Sage & Kale Sprouts. The adults had Montauk Bluefish Fillet wrapped in Pickled Grape Leaves with Black Chickpeas, Tomatoes, and a superb lemony Anchovy Vinaigrette. The fish is intense but was great with our white as well as our second wine, a delicious Rioja Valencisco 2008 Reserva from Rioja Alta made by Carmen Encisco. Lots of body but not overly intense and oh so smooth red.

 

The main course was Lamb Tenders which was Grilled & Smoked Lamb with Mexican flavors as Chef Anita had just returned from Mexico. A bowl of posole was on the side and there were Pomegranate Seeds and a light Pomegranate Mint Sauce. This was our looking to the future as we leave for 2 weeks in Mexico in less than a month!!

Chef Anita came over to greet us and we were awed.

 

Dessert arrived on four plates which we rotated around the table:

Caramelized Pineapple with Pink Peppercorn, Puffed Wild Rice & Pandanas Ice Cream

Pecan Beignets with Bourbon Ice Milk to dip

Poppy Seed Bread Pudding with Meyer Lemon Curd

and the supreme winner (they were all amazing)-Sticky Date Pudding with Mascarpone Mousse

 

Candied Ginger, Orange Popsicles and Chocolate Mint Truffles sent us home very happy. What a great day and great dinner.

Long Island's KYMA is cool cuisine with Greek flair in chic setting (11-26-15)

After arriving in NY the holiday, we headed to Roslyn out on the island to join my brother-in-law, his sister-in-law and a friend of theirs from the UK who helps care for his dog Gibbs that we have known for a couple of years now. I chose KYMA (http://www.kyma-roslyn.com/contact.html) as I knew there would be a wealth of items Samuel would enjoy. On arrival we were escorted into the almost all white room to a table with benches on either side and lots of cushions. The all white room and tables were offset with black cloth placemats. It was cozy and comfy, except for a draft from the nearby floor to ceiling windows overlooking the street. The manager closed the curtain, we ordered drinks and warmed up. I had a White Cosmo of Belvedere Vodka, white Cranberry juice, St. Germain & fresh lime that was delish. Will's Afros of Crop Cucumber, St. German, Lime and Pineapple was too pineapply for moi. Warm pita and bread arrived with yummy lemony hummus. The lighting was subdued, but there's always a cellphone to light the menu these days. The walls are white brick and a huge bar in the middle of the room was as busy as could be for the night before Thanksgiving.

We ordered a bunch of starters to share:

Samuel wanted the Kyma Chips of paper thin zucchini & eggplant fried and served with tztziki dip which was enough to feed 4 people and tasted amazing. Ocotpus was sushi grade from the Mediterranean and grilled with onions and capers to a tenderness that was like butter. The taramasalata was okay, but too creamy and not fishy enough for our tastes. A huge Greek salad was amazing and had tons of gorgeous ripe red tomatoes as well as romaine, dill, and feta.

Maryland Crabcakes were tasty and used our Maryland Blue Crabs.

A superb Assyrtiko/Sauvignon Blanc blend Biblia from Chora Estate 2014 in Pangeon was a great pairing for all the flavors and then we moved on to a Talbott Sleepy Hollow Chardonnay 2013 from Santa Lucia Highlands, because I know my brother-in-law loves California Chard.

Main courses were all excellent save for the Skewered Swordfish Cubes with Tomato, Onion & Bell Pepper which Will had and did not complain about until the next morning; too late for a change or credit for sure.

Sam gobbled up his Grass-Fed Veal Greek Style with Fries and everything else was gone as well save for the huge portion of Double Pork Chops & fries.

Garides Tiger Shrimp were huge and served in a sauce of EVOO & Lemon.

My whole Mediterranean Pink Snapper with capers, lemon, oregano, salt & pepper was perfect with only about 3 little bones to boot. The fish was sweet and tender and the sauce simple and perfect. I chose the side of Leek & Rice Pilaf, which was nice but needed more leek.

 

We decided to all split one dessert of Chocolate Molten Cake which was okay, but served at room temperature and hence not very molten.

Glasses of Samos dessert wine were offered complimentary which was a nice treat before heading out into the cold near freezing temps. By this time, the place was over jammed and the music had gone super-loud disco and you couldn't get near the bar. It was a good meal, but it was time to leave.

5 proteins with Pinot Noir make a party at The Partisan with Native Flora's fabulous wines (11-11-15)

Last night we joined our friends Denise & Scott Flora for the amazing wine dinner set up by the team at the Partisan under Chef Nathan Anda. They worked hard to pair the amazing wines and did a pretty awesome job.

All those in attendance had a ball. While we arrived quite early (no traffic on the holiday and a free space out front) I ordered a drink called The Regulator made from Cabeza Tequila, Hagman's Sloe Gin, Dolvin Genepy (a type of vermouth) and lime; think softened margarita without the salt but much more punch and no sweetness at all. I loved it.

We sat down (there were 30-something total attendees) and the first wine was poured:
2014 Native Flora "Solstice Skies" Riesling (all the wines are from Dundee Hills, Willamette Valley, Oregon) which Scott explained was their second vintage of the wine, The first vintage was to "get rid of the diesel" and this was to see "how dry we can make it." Success for sure, because even Will loved it and only likes super-dry Rieslings. There is a mineral intense nose and I loved the intense mineral finish on the tongue as well as the wine's real strong acidity. It was paired with Smoked Mackerel Crudo, Pickled Apple & Celery Leaf (which seems to be such a silly garnish for my taste, or lack of it). The fish was fatty indeed and the wine fought that, but every now and then a large salt crystal was too much for the wine and indeed the palate. I love mackerel sushi and this was supreme, but a little less salt would have been welcome, or perhaps a finer salt.

Milk-Poached Pork Loin arrived with persimmon, Walnut & a Celery Root Puree. This dish was heaven as it was cooked in milk, sous-vide and then seared so the edge was a bit crusty, even if there were large pieces of fat (which I cut out). It was tasty and the persimmon actually reminded me of a slightly sweet potato with tropical finish. The wine was 2014 Native Flora "Karsts of the Andaman" Pinot Blanc and the tropical finish was a perfect match.

I love carpaccio and the 35 Day Aged Beef Carpaccio came so simply prepared with EVOO, Arugula, Salt & Pepper. The pepper was negligent and Scott grabbed the pepper mill and hit the carpaccio with a splash at every table giving it just the pop that it needed as this was served with the 2014 Native Flora "Jolly Rancher" Rose that we all adore so much and can live up to any spice.  It is so structured and made from a blend of co-fermented Pinot Nor & Pinot Blanc, but then floated with Malbec berries on top (which carbonically ferment and explode) for that Jolly Rancher punch, so aromatic of the candy, but bone dry. Scott calls it "heresy in a bottle." I asked our super-handsome server (that's another story), Russell, where the meat came from and we were told a farm in Maryland called Laurel Delight.

The best course all night was the Autumn Spiced Boar Sausage with Squash Puree which was quite spicy, full of flavor and declared by us all, "what a boar!!" I adored the fried sage leaves on it and the intense flavors which paired so finely with 2012 Native Flora "Next Time" Pinot Noir.

The superb and elegant 2013 Native Flora "Jaguar Reserve" Pinot Noir arrived with the Boar Ham with Foie Gras Grits and Red Wine Shallots. The grits were the highlight og this dish and the Pinot Noir was a perfect match yet again. The meat was a feral wild heritage pig (a lot was spoken about the animal and it's heritage back to the times of Columbus) which was brined 5 days and cooked 9 hours. Tasty yes, but a bit on the chewy side.

There was no dessert, but we were all full anyway and we all had a great time enjoying these novel dishes paired with these blow-your-mind wines that again are only available by direct sales from Native Flora due to the extremely small production. Well worth getting your hands on it. We do! 

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back in DC, CENTROLINA states a great case for some of the coolest cuisine around (11-10-15)

We are thrilled that our new friends from Oregon's Willamette Valley, Denise and Scott Flora, are in town this week for a big wine dinner tonight that we helped to organize.

We decided to start the celebration with them early, by heading to CENTROLINA (www.centrolinadc.com) at the hip new CityCenterDC where Chef Amy Brandwien reigns supreme.

I had only been to Centrolina once before back in June, and now I think it's even better as they are about to celebrate their 1/2 year anniversary and are going as strong as ever.

Scott brought some of his superb, rare and novel wines from his winery NATIVE FLORA, and we started with an amazing sparkling wine dubbed "Cuvee Lussier" 2011 Dundee Hills, Oregon, which is their first vintage of the delicate yet yummy wine made from 90+% Pinot Noir and the balance Pinot Blanc, innovative yet delicious.

Our server Shannon explained the menu and we perused the choices for quite a while and then tasted the Burrata which here is served with caramelized onions and greens over slices of Purple Sweet Potatoes as well as Olive Oil. I loved this new take on the cheese everyone adores and might even venture to try it at home.

Next up was one of the first reasons we fell in love with the Floras a year ago when at their home for a wine dinner. Native Flora Rose "Jolly Rancher" 2014 is the newer vintage of this superb dry rose made from Blanc de Noir & Malbec and it is simply superb. Chef Amy, Manager/ Sommeliere (I always thought it was sommelieuse!) Kristin seemed to be quite thrilled with these wines which incidentally are only available by direct sale from Native Flora and sold at no wine or liquor stores due to the very small production quantities, making this an even more desirable wine for your cellar or table (there is also a wine club -www.nativeflora.com).

We ordered our first white wine, and I managed to intrigue Scott into a Virginia Vermentino Reserve 2013 from Barboursville, which we all agreed had amazing taste at first, but Scott noted that the finish virtually  disappeared within seconds. Kristin opened another Vermentino from Corse made by US winemaker Oren Swift, but from Corsica (hence the name). The label was so poorly created it was nary impossible to read, but we all agreed that for less money, it was far superior with a creamy finish that was so well suited to the milder dishes. The Barboursville, however, did go very well with my spicy Tunnina, or seared tuna belly with bottargo aioli (the spicy element) and broccoli raab that was a tasty treat indeed. The other starters were Carolo or basically a Savoy Cabbage Slaw with Parmesan & EVOO that was refreshing and tasty; the signature POLPO which is octopus soffocato with potato confit, cotechinata and celery salad, which we know will always be on the menu. The Grilled Mortadella was a novel dish with red onion, frisee and pistachio that reminded me of a sophisticated spam (please forgive me for using that word).

Next we tasted Native Flora's 2012 Next Time Pinot Noir which is one of four that they make. We had not yet tasted this present release which has a huge vanilla aroma up front and some of the best body and flavor you will find anywhere in a Pinot Noir! 

We ordered several pastas to share and this is always a treat from Chef Amy:

Raviolini celebrated the autumn and were filled with Roasted Pumpkin & Ricotta Cheese in a Butter & Sage Sauce with Amaretti Cookie crumble.

Quadrucci were filled with Crab, Cod & Potato and served in a simple yet elegant Lemon Butter Sauce.

Neri is Squid Ink Pasta, which had been exhausted on my previous visit since all the pasta is made fresh in house and is often gone by later in the evening! Here is has Sushi-grade Yellowfin Tuna and Nonnaral di Pesce or a spicy fish sauce (think halfway between spicy Thai fish sauce and Puttanesca) on the side of the dish that you can take as much of as you like; I loved it.

The main courses arrived and we decided on two orders of the Grilled Swordfish with Tuscan Kale and two of the Anatra or Cured Duck Breast with Tuscan kale, Pancetta-wrapped potatoes with a tasty Persimmon Marmellata (foto on my FB page). Most of the duck was cooked perfectly rare and tender, but a slice here and there on each plate was a bit chewy, but not beyond edibility. Will enjoyed a glass of Ruche Crivelli 2013 Ruche di Castignane from Monferrato while I loved my Produttori del Barbaresco 2011. By this time, no more wine was an option!

Desserts here are excellent and we decided to share two:
Apple Crostata with Hazelnuts, Lemon Meringue (which comes in the form of cute little balls) and Prosecco Gelato. The dish had a super perfumey smell that announced the apples and spices and we all agreed the pastry was superb. Chocoholics will adore the Cioccolato which is a Chocolate Semifreddo with tasty autumn-influenced Pumpkin Seed Brittle, Chocolate Crouton and Maple Candied Ganache.

Candied Hazelnuts covered with Chocolate Powder sent us home quite full and happy to starve ourselves today before the exciting Native Flora Wine Dinner tonight at The Partisan!

 

 

LEMONGRASS in Las Vegas' Aria is amazing (11-7-15)

My last night in Las Vegas was a Saturday and just an hour or so after three intense days of conferences, etc. I was exhausted and walked about a mile or so up the strip to the Aria complex where I had chose the very highly rated Lemongrass, a pan-Asian spot secluded in the rear off the lobby which I loved. Here at Mandalay Bay, the dozens and dozens of dining outlets, from Hubert Keller (the famous French chef from SanFran) to Wolfgang Puck and more are all facing the monstrous casino area.

We had one lunch at Noodle House which had okay food, but nothing worth writing about. Sadly the casino noise is horrendous everywhere. While Aria also has a huge foyer/lobby/casino area as well, this area where Lemongrass and several other dining spots were located, was quite serene.

The décor was quite interesting with lots of dowels on the wall, giant ropes strung all over creating a giant loom feel as if we were sitting inside the loom. The leather booths, wooden tables and floors and open kitchen were nice as well. I looked up to see a gigantic rope chandelier (several indeed) which looked like a giant woof from a loom. It was fascinating.

The service here was attentive and friendly and the portions were monstrous.

I ordered a small bottle of unfiltered Sake, Miyashita "Sacred Mist", Honjozo Nigori which was cloudy since it was unfiltered, yet milky and smooth and truly awesome with the spicy food I chose.

Tom Kha Lobster was the version of the famous chicken or shrimp soup with coconut, but here with lobster chunks abounding, coconut, lemongrass, ginger, red chilies, Galangal, cilantro and a heaping of Abalone Mushrooms. I had to ask my server for a long rest as the portion was easily a main course.

My main course was a throwback to our winter trip to Malaysia and SE Asia with Penang Red Curry with Duck which was seared tneder and rare with crispy skin and then smothered in the spicy curry with hints of cocnut, sprinkles of peanuts and some lychees.

This place, like virtually everywhere in Las Vegas was not fancy; people really dress down in most cases, but it was more elegant for sure than so many of the restaurants and the food was as elegant as one could expect in any excellent Asian dining spot. A great end to my short stay.

Vegas Dinner #2....RIVEA, gets some raves, Ducasse does in Italian (11-5-15)

On my second night in Las Vegas I was thrilled to accept an invitation from one of my favorite vendors, who happens to handle the Alain Ducasse properties in France. RIVEA, Ducasse's newest installation, just happens to be the top floor of my hotel, the Delano with outrageously wonderful views of the Las Vegas skyline. We had drinks and champagne first in the elegant Skyfall Lounge next door with even a better view and outdoor heaters aflalme in this chilly weather.

RIVEA has Chef Bruno Riou in charge and while he is in control, I do not understand why the food is Italian bistro, where M. Ducasse is indeed one of the greatest French chefs on earth.

No bread here, just excellent grissini, which we munched on with Rolle, La Chapelle Gordonne, 2013, a white Vermintino from Cotes de Provences that I adored. The starters were Mozzarella di bufala & tomato, excellent Tomato Pizzettas with Culatello, San Daniele (prosciutto) & Bresaola that was truly lean and excellent. I also loved the piquant and tasty Octopus Salad with Coco Beans and Confit Bell Peppers.

The pasta was Paccheri with superbly cooked Ox Cheek and a French Daube-style sauce which is a hearty brown sauce that worked superbly with the meat. I was ready for the red wine and it did come as I almost finished (we were a big group and the place was jammed). Domaine Triennes 2013 from Var, France is a blend of Syrah, Merlot and Cab that was smooth, drinkable and tasty with a good body to boot.

The main course was an amazing Pepper crusted Bison Tenderloin that was soft, rare and divine.

It was the dessert that blew us all away. LIMONCELLO BABA with Meyer Limoncello from CelloVia in the USA, which is as good as any Italian limoncello I have had. The baba was split, soaked with limoncello, as opposed to rum and then doused with a delightful gob of whipped cream. Nobody left a bite on their plate and then a fortified red granache akin to Banyuls arrived.

We had more time overlooking the city from the private dining room at the other side, which had just emptied out (there is also a chef's table in the kitchen with no view save to the food).

Our meal was enjoyable, for sure but I guess I wanted more sublime French and was taken aback. I have no clue what the cost was, so I can't compare, but I am sure this view and M. Ducasse's name go for a price as high as the sixty-something floor it is on!

Las Vegas' GUY SAVOY truly worthy of 3 Michelin Stars++ and superb experience (11-4-15)

I arrived in Las Vegas for a 3 day business convention and have to admit that although I have been a travel agent for 30+ years, this was my first time here in sin city. I was already down on the place by the time I hit my hotel as it took 30 minutes to drive less than 1 mile to the hotel (the airport is really across the street, but you have to go the long way around!). I walked through the Mandalay Bay Complex which also houses the Fours Seasons and the Delano, where I am staying, and was completely turned off by the casino, smokers, and offensive dress that many folks sport here (simply said, there are way too many women with skirts that don't go below their waists!). So after my first meetings which ended at 9pm (midnight on my clock), I hopped a cab to Caesar's Palace a couple of minutes away and made my way to the serene oasis of Restaurant GUY SAVOY, the Vegas spot this world-famous Michelin star from Paris chose to house his gastronomic temple. I loved the fact that it was so serene, quiet and restful and I actually relaxed in the room with only twelve tables (I think there was another small room, but it was closed) of which only 1/2 were still occupied. within an hour, at 1030pm, I was the only one left until my departure after the magnificent tasting menu. The SIGNATURE menu was chosen for several reasons:

1)I was in Vegas for the Signature Travel Network meeting.

2)I am co-chair of the Chefs Committee for  March of Dimes Signature Chefs benefit this month

3)I didn't want the pricier degustation menu or the way overpriced white truffle menu.

The price tag was $250 and the accompanying wines chalked up another $175, not to mention $10 for the excellent Badoit.

I did start with a $30 glass of champagne which was offered, but not priced for me. There was a choice of about 8 champagnes by the glass from a huge trolley, and I stayed in the middle to lower range and avoided the vintage choices of Krug, Dom Perignon and others. Chartogne-Tailler Cuvee Sainte Anne was a deliciously soft brut which set me at ease and allowed me to peruse the vast menu choices. It was also delicious with my four, yes four, amuses bouches.

1)Foie Gras terrine with black truffle vinaigrette was creamy, rich and indulgent

2)Tomato concasse (that's fancy for chopped) with black olive was served in adorable little indentations on toasted bread points. It was tasty, but unexciting.

3)a magnificent petite burger (we now call them sliders) was rare and tasty with Dijon Mustard

4)a small bowl arrived with crunchy quinoa over which Carrott Ginger Soup with Espalette Pepper was poured tableside.

The bread trolley was amazing and it was impossible to choose as one does not wish to overdo this. I went for Bacon & Salt Mini-Brioche as well as the tasty Chestnut Bread and the amazing Seaweed. There were also Mustard Seed, Ciabbata (onion or plain), Lemon, and both Poppyseed or plain baguettes. There were both salted and unsalted butters imported from Normandy, fresh ground pepper and sea salt, all served under adorable mini-glass domes that had a Moroccan feel to them.

The first course on the menu was entitled "Colors of Caviar" and consisted of a gorgeous parfait like creation with vinaigrette or caviar, caviar cream, caviar sabayon, herbs and Osetra Caviar and a mother of pearl caviar spoon to dig through the vertically layered parfait to get a taste of each layer in each bite. It was rich, sublime and again indulgent. Paired with R. & L. Legras, Guy Savoy Blanc de Blancs Champagne from Chouilly which was very dry brut, but with a floral nose and herbaceous aftertaste.

I love chestnuts, so Chestnuts "All Around" or "Tout Autour de la Chataigne" was a treat for me and brought me back to my first Michelin-starred chestnut soup in Paris as Carre des Feuillantes decades ago. Here we had a combination of braised chestnuts, chestnut custard, custard chips all in a bowl filled with mushroom-infused milk (think light creamy broth). The wine was Clos Ste. Magdeleine 2012 from Cassis in Provence made from Marsanne & Ugni Blanc, a tasty earthy white that enhanced the dish to perfection.

 

Red Mullet Fillet was with a Spinach and Mushroom Gratin and this famous French dish (Rouget in Europe) was delicate and tasty in a mullet fume and was served with Yves Cuilleron 2010 Saint-Pierre from Saint-Joseph in the Loire valley. I reveled as I saw the bottle approaching as I had the pleasure of meeting the late Maestro Cuilleron over 15 years ago when I visited his world famous vineyard and tasted so many of his superb wines. This white was again genius pairing, and the sommelier was impressed with my knowledge of it.

The fourth course of the tasting was another Foie Gras, here called "Bitter Infusion" and offered up the treat in a Duck Consomme with Beets, a Kumquat Puree and was paired with a crunchy piece of seared Foie Gras underneath a small cup as a finishing surprise. I gobbled it all up and loved the Domaine Albert Mann Grand Cru Furstentum 2011 Pinot Gris from Alsace that offered up a good deal of residual sugar and sweetness to pair with the "bitter" element of the dish.

As I was enjoying the previous course a glass teapot was brought to the table and placed over small flame to heat what was apparently an element of the next dish: Artichoke & Black Truffle Soup, Toasted Mushroom Brioche and Black Truffle Butter.

Here we had braised endives over crispy Puffed Rice (Chef seems to like crunchy elements) as well as a Gamache of Green Tea(the glass pot). The truffles were from Perigord and shaved over the dish and the brioche made from mushrooms sat in the middle. The broth was a rich intense reduction that was almost velvety from the truffle butter and aged parmesan was shaved over the top. I loved all the courses, but this was truly a favorite and revelation. Domaine Anne-Marie Gille Vosne-Romanee 2003 Pinot Noir from Bourgogne was a throwback to when I drank this amazing wine while at cooking school at the University of Dijon in the early 70's (of course, it was much less expensive back then).

The "main" course was an American Prime Beef Tenderloin with Braised Paleron (shoulder of beef), Potato Puree and Baby Heirloom Carrots. The Tarragon & Grape Mustard was awesome. The shoulder was nowhere near as amazing as the filet, which did not need the Laguiole steak knife as it was so tender, a fork could cut through it. The Coup de Foudre 37.2 Cuvee Merlot 2012 from Napa was way too young to drink at this time.

I was back in Europe as the cheese trolley rolled over and I debated which to choose:

Brillat Savarin was superbly salty and creamy and went best with the Verget "Les Enseigneres" Puligny-Montrachet 2003, aged to perfection.

I must note that the fine dining spots in Vegas all seem to use Spiegelau crystal which is nice, but here I would have expected Riedel. The white was refreshing after the red I did not care for, so I was happy to switch colors.

Lejeune Altize was a great goat with Ash

Onetik is a tasty earthy sheep and cow with a nettle-like rind with salt

Fleur de Maguers was a superb Corsican Sheep and my

blue was Fourmes d'Ambert

Following this was a palate cleanser of Aloe Vera Gelee with Grapefruit Meringue that was truly novel and fun and oh so refreshing.

The first dessert was Quince & Apple which had apple-wrapped ice cream amongst other multi-variations of the fruits (I'm not a quince fan) and an ice-wine gelatin. The Domaine Huet, Le Haut-Lieu, Moeulleux 2009 Vouvray was another wonderful wine choice.

As I stared out the windows onto the strip, I marveled at the lit signs for Planet Hollywood, Vuitton, Dior and the massive video screens. I was so thankful to be inside and sheltered from the craziness of Las Vegas.

The main dessert was a Samuel treat in the waiting of Chocolate Fondant, Crunchy Praline and Chicory Cream. I was worried about the bitterness associated with chicory, but there was none here. This was a miracle chocolate dish and paired with one of my favorites ice wines, Inniskillen Cabernet Franc 2008 from Niagara in Ontario, Canada.

I have a note that I was served a black pepper tea sorbet with something at one point, but it seems to have been lost in the 3+ hour trip to gastronomic heaven that ended with a bag to go of pastries, muffins, mini-cheesecakes and more which I have had with my coffee in the room every morning for the past 3 days. How I love re-living my best meal in Vegas every day as I now plan to head home.

DC's DEL CAMPO does it deliciously (10-26-15)

Last night we headed downtown with Samuel and two friends of ours for our first trip to Del Campo's (www.delcampodc.)dining room. I've been several times before for events, but really wanted to eat there as Chef Victor Albisu is our honorary chef chair of this years March of Dimes Signature Chefs event (of which I am co-chair of the chef's committee) three weeks from now. Chef Victor is very generous to the DC community when it comes to charity and indeed all events, the least we can do is give back to him for that.

We arrived at 630pm and the restaurant was fairly empty, but the bar was heaving. The dining room was almost full by the time we left and the noise levels were high, but not unbearable. One huge arty of about 30 at the rear was quite loud, but we were way up front at the window. The dining room is elegant and warm and most comfortable as well. Our server, Dmitri took our wine order and quickly delivered a bottle of Muga Viura barrel-fermented 2013 from Rioja an earthy white that actually had little oak taste due to the barrel, but was superb as an aperitif alone, or with starters.

Some of us were attracted to the set $45 menu which has a choice of salad, the Provoleta melted cheese with bread and then a huge Asado selection from the grill of Short Rib, Flank Steak, Chorizo, Grilled Greens and a choice of Sweetbreads or Chicken with Chimichurri and Salsa Criolla. Sadly, the whole table must do this, so we have to go back again for that option which I am so game for.

Two starters arrived in the form of a huge portion of Hamachi Ceviche with Sweet Potato, Aji Amarillo, Radish &  Brown Butter(well, thats' what the menu said online, but it also had a Leche de Tigre or citrus marinade that had a lemon curd consistency) which was superb, especially with the small slices of jalapeno for extra spice. A revelation was the Grilled Pear and Pecorino Salad with Arugula, Hazelnuts & Burnt Onion that was one of the best salads I think I have ever had. The vinaigrette was tasty and exciting and the pears were grilled to perfection.

We had moved on to a superb Valsacro "Dioro" Gran Reserva 2005 Tempranillo from Rioja as well that Dmitri suggested and was smooth and easy to drink. The starters were varied and the wine was divine with all:

Grilled Octopus & Crab Causa with Grilled Scallion, Piquillo & grilled Avocado (after a while you do realize that almost everything is grilled here!) which was also a huge starter (well, they all were)

Provoleta was a huge cast iron pan of seared provolone cheese with oregano served with lots of crispy country bread for dipping

My Seared Iberico Pork Loin was as tender as it gets and truly worthy of the name from which the famous Spanish ham also comes. It was served with Grilled Brussels Sprouts, Baby Eggplant, Smoked Yogurt, Salmon Caviar and a nice Romesco sauce.

While we waited for our main course we finished off the superb Valsacro and Dmitri suggested a lighter Malbec from Luigi Bosca D.O.C. Lujan de Cayo 2012 from Mendoza in Argentina that was much bigger than I expected but again superb with the grilled main courses, even the fish! Samuel had the 10 ounce Prime Hanger Steak with Steak Frites and Salsa Golf (aka Argentine Ketchup or ketchup with mayo, hence Russian dressing-ish, but with more oomph) which was a s tender and delicious as it gets. Two of us had the Grilled Tuna & Calamari with Smoked Tomato, Espalette and Grilled Olives, while the Peruvian Chicken with Crispy yucca, Aji Amarillo Alioli & Green Chili Puree was declared moist and superb. My Cast Iron Seared Prawns (photo on my FB page) were huge with head on and served with Chorizo, Mussels, Chillies, Ink Citrus Spaetzle and Mint (which I could not taste at all) as well as a Corn Salsa. It was perfect indeed and while a lighter dish, quite filling. Delicious green Jalapeno Mashed Potatoes arrived that were creamy and divine as was the Grilled Cauliflower with Raisins and Salsa Verde. Don't skip these fantastic sides as they are all superbly tasty and novel.

Desserts were inevitable so we tried several and shared, except for Samuel who would not let anyone have a bite of his Warm Chocolate Cake with Dulce de Leche Toasted Cashew Ice Cream. He seemed full after eating about 1/2 and finally allowed us to taste the yummy dish. The one not so great dish all night was the Coconut Caramel Crepe Soufflé  with Grilled Pineapple & Canela , but the Grilled Key Lime Pie with Lime Espuma made up for it and the even better Grilled Carrot Cake with Cream Cheese Ice Cream & Dulce de Leche was beyond excellent. As if this was not all enough a plate of Nutella Donuts with Grilled Banana Ice Cream magically appeared which were easily the winner overall and simply decadent and oh so tasty.

doin' the whole darn dinner @DINO's in Shaw (10-12-15)

Last night eight of us headed to our friend Dean Gold's DINO's for what was an event we purchased last year when he was raising money for his move to the new place. Little did we know this would be an over-3 hour long event starting with cocktails and snacks including Tapenades & Crostini(Yogurt,Garlic,Cucumeber with Roasted Red Pepper; Corona Bean; Kalamata Olive), Fried Crab Balls with Remoulade, and the always so deadly and indulgent Deviled Eggs with Crispy Parma Prosciutto, Anchovy Sriracha Aioli & Salsa Verde. I had a Fuego Verde again which was even spicier than last time, but loved it.

We moved upstairs for the main event which commenced with pours of a Sparkling Rose Fiorini Corte degli Attimi, Lambrusco di Sorbara which I can't say is one of my favorite sparkling wines as I prefer it drier, but paired very well with the multiple plates of salamis, pates, etc. These included the best Testa ever(pig head) with a to-die-for ginger mostarda, sliced Fagatini with a very mild horseradish cream, and a Prok & Mushroom pate. Also in evidence was Boar Salami, Andouille Sausage and a superb creamy Rillettes.

If we weren't full enough, we were when the first pasta arrived which was a delicious vongole (clams) and then another full plate of Linguini in Pesto with vegetables came. Well, we have plenty of leftovers this week to eat at home. The wine was a superb Soave Classico, Vigneto du Lot 2010 from Inama which was creamy and intense. I joked with our server Roberto about the name as it had a Greco-clad couple on the bottle which was supposed to be the Biblical Lot and his wife, who turned to a pillar of salt-odd choice for a wine.

We asked for a long rest and ordered a bottle of Ridge 2012 Estate Chardonnay, Monte Bello Vineyard which Dean's wonderful wife, Kay, recommended as one of her favorites. This was a ddeal as wines ar 33% off Sundays-Tuesdays! It was a superb California chard, full of huge fruit flavors and as far as I can recall, the first American wine I have ever had as Dino's is so Italian-centric.

The rest was over and the Castello dei Rampolla 1999 from Samarco, a subtle yet full bodied Tuscan red arrived to truly set the stage for the meat course of Pork Belly with a yummy Tuscan Mole Sauce that packed a nice spicy bite and a plate of roasted potatoes with several slices of the Teres Major Steak with Salsa Verde that we discovered earlier this year and is a real treat for meat-aholics.

After this another amazing red arrived that was much bigger than I expected from a Sudtirol (South Tyrol, near the Austrian border) wine. De Silva Lagreine Edizione 2010 from Alto Adige which indeed impressed us. It was a delight with the excellent cheese plate of Ubriaco al Pepe (aged cow with a punch), Moliterno al Tartufo (an intense aged sheep with truffle) and a new cheese for all of us, St. Stephen which is a triple cream cow from upstate NY that is oh so creamy and salty at the same time. There were spiced almonds and an apple compote that disappeared oh so fast.

Some folks opted for desserts and while I was full, I told everyone that my favorite was the poached peach which may be gone soon as autumn is indeed upon us. A glass of frozen Limoncello, that was unctuous beyond belief, sent us away very happy and we have to thank Dean for his undying kindness to us in oh so many ways, as well as his generosity to all who know him in DC. We

were happy to help make this move possible, even if only with a small contribution, but boy was this a meal to remember.

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HUNTING CREEK STEAK simmers & steams in Alexandria (10-7-15)

Hunting Creek Steak has been open most of this year, but we only found out about it a month or so ago. We know the owner, Michael Nayeri, who also rules at A La Lucia in Alexandria, as well as the Chef, Will Greenwood, who actually cooked our first honeymoon meal in the Jefferson Hotel 22 years ago this last week!

These guys have put together an adorable spot at 1106 King St. (http://www.huntingcreeksteak.com/) with plenty of room and plenty of choices. You all know, I am not a steak nut, but this has to be one of the best steaks in the area for the price; a worthwhile venture for sure for steak lovers and others.

Samuel and I went while Will is away, and he wanted to sit outside since it was such a nice evening; it was a great idea and the brick enclosed patio facing the street was jammed with folks, but not noisy at all. There is a cute cabana if you want to spread out and enjoys drinks and snacks and lots of tables with umbrellas. The service outside is superb (it can often be bad when you are there alone and the waiter is AWOL) and we were looked after excellently by the entire team, but Eric was always on with the wine as was our server Shawn.

Speaking of wine, you get 25% off any bottle Mondays-Wednesdays, which I am a big fan of, so I ordered the Numanthia Termes 2011 Tempranillo from Tot, Spain which was smooth, yet intense and would be a superb steak wine for sure. My only complaint for the entire night was that the glasses are on the heavy side; but then this is ahuge palce with an outdoodr, so they need to be sturdy. Samuel had his coke.

Out came a small plate of pinwheel wraps stuffed with smoked salmon and boursin cheese, which Samuel declared inedible as he detests cream cheese; they were delicious, but filling, so I will have the rest for lunch today. I ordered the Lemon-Ginger Infused Salmon Tartar with Jerusalem Artichokes which is a great starter to share. The plate is laden with thinly sliced chokes that are deep fried and come out like thickish potato chips and are seasoned perfectly as the tartar is mild and can be scooped onto the yummy chips. There is also tasty housemade focaccia.

Every day there is a 3-course menu deal with many choices as this is not just a steak place, but we were drawn to the Roseda Farms Butcher's Cut Wagyu Beef Bavette from the start. The steaks are hormone and antibiotic-free at this grass-fed farm and dry aged 21 days in Maryland, which won me over from the start. The Wagyu cut is 12 ounces which is huge and rings in at an amazing $32!! Sam had his with Bernaise which he barely used as the steak was so tasty. My chimichurri was superb and there are many sauce options, although they are not needed at all! The steaks all come with tasty just spiced-right frites, so we skipped ordering any sides as we were indeed stuffed and managed to take home about 1/3 of each steak anyway for tonight! When Chef Will came out, we were all praises and he explained that the steaks are cryovac wet-aged for even longer in house which has to be the secret as well as the superb source.

A glass of tasty Foggy Ridge Pippin Gold Alcoholic Cider from Dougspur, VA was brought around and I fell in love with this sweet treat before we headed home, knowing full well we will be back to HUNTING CREEK for steak or not....maybe duck and the chocolate desserts...or whatever.