Wednesday, September 18, 2024

MAKETTO makes magic at James Beard Foundation Taste America (9-16-24)

 Every year the James Beard Foundation embarks on TASTE AMERICA, w wonderful "tour" across America (20 cities this fall) with nominated and winning chefs hosting various dining events. Monday night Chef Erik Bruner-Yang of Maketto was joined by Jerome Grant of Mahal BBQ for a super fun evening of food and wine.

On arrival there was a reception with a slightly cloudy French champagne that I never did get the name of. It was a tad hard to drink on its own, but once the spicy hor's d'oevres arrived, it was ideal!!
There were pork spring rolls which were crispy with a kick and yummy shrimp dumplings in a kicky soy dip. It was hard to resist taking multiples of these, especially since we knew several courses were to follow! Since I was alone, I was lucky enough to be seated with three of the folks who came down from the JBF in NYC to coordinate the event. We were at a bar looking out the huge window upstairs at Maketto (H St NE) over the large inner courtyard, giant tree and kitchen below! It was quite nice, but the high metal chairs wreaked havoc on my rearend!
First was a Smoked Pineapple Carpaccio with Pork Cracklin', Radish and Patis Vinaigrette. I am not a huge pineapple fan unless it is just as a fruit on its own, but the smoke on this was amazing and cut the tart and sweetness of the fruit to perfection! It was served with a Sundstrom Cider Flux Dry 2021 Sparkling Cider which was another brilliant idea.
Next came a magnificent Cambodian Sausage-Stuffed Chicken Wing with Lime Leaf Brown Butter on a Cured Scallop. The wing was rich, but the cured scallop cut that and made a perfect, if odd, combination! Materne & Schmitt Winninger dry Riesling 2019 also cut that richness brilliantly.
The main was a superb Smoked Tocini-Cured Duck (breast) with Carolina Gold Rice and Mahal Ginger-Plum Sauce. As a duck fan, this was perfection with super crispy skin, little fat and perfectly cooked meat with a fab sauce. Bodegas Altanza Crianza Rioja 2018 was another super pairing and while we had an amazing team of servers and staff, a super shout out goes to STELLA! who managed to get me some extra wine when I needed it!
Dessert was a Mochi Beignet with Lemon Curd, Strawberry and Powdered Sugar (I had more red--thanks Stellla!) which was nice, but I did yearn for a little fun filling in the beignet--think spicy yuzu or guava to just make it more exciting.
The chefs came out to great applause and indeed I am positive that the filled restaurant patrons were quite happy with our wonderful repast!

Tuesday, September 17, 2024

MOON RABBIT will make you want MORE (9-13-24)

 Each year that we have been involved with March of Dimes Signature Chefs that Chef Kevin Tien has participated, we have purchased his tasting dinner with paired drinks and always had the most amazing of times.  We purchased this dinner on a Covid-zoom March of Dimes fundraiser and then sadly Moon Rabbit at the Wharf closed.  There is a silver lining for everything and now Moon Rabbit has reincarnated downtown and is better than ever. The new setting is cozy with a large open kitchen and several rooms. There is no signage save for MR outside, but last Friday at 630pm, the place was jammed full and did not clear out until very late. 

We settled in and ordered some of the fun drinks. I tried the Het Nuoc Cham or "Out of Dipping Sauce" with Haku Vodka, Chinola Passionfruit, lemon and Nuoc Cham--yup, FISH SAUCE. The spiciness fought the sweetness of the passionfruit and it was most refreshing. Our server Monique was a gem and always replied that it was her "sincerest pleasure" or such with a huge smile. While Chef Kevin served and described many of the dishes, Monique was assisted by Brandon with another huge smile as well as a wonderful team of superb servers!
A tiered tray of amuses arrived with Steamed Egg, Sweet Potato Glass Noodles, Wood Ear Mushroom and marinated anchovy on top--think QUICHE on CRACK! Opposite was a Chicken Liver Pate with Compressed Pear in a Savory Tart that had a nice aftertaste of spiciness. On the bottom was Pan de Sol Filippino bread with Condensed Coconut Milk  "butter" that was vegan. There are many veggie and vegan options here and I was wowed by the meaty and fishy flavors they exuded. All the dishes are on FB photos.
Our first course was Tuna Crudo with Ahi Tuna, Strawberry and Tomato as well as Lemon verbena and Cilantro oil all in a tomato water with avocado, chili and fresno chili puree that was to die for. I am a huge fan of my homemade tuna tartare and this dish was a real hit with all of us!
Our first wine was Domaine Billard Pere et Fils "La Justice" 2022 chardonnay from Hautes-Cotes de Beaune that was creamy and rich and we absolutely loved it with the next course of Banh Beo or Rice Cakes with Umami Tofu Crumble, Ginger Scallion, Cured egg and Vegan Nuoc Cham(yes, vegan fish sauce!!). This dish was umami-loaded, meaty and fishy at the same time as vegan!!
Taro Pave (or Banh Khoai) is a sweet potato, yucca "pate" if you will, steamed and fried with celtuce, green mango, radish salad and coconut mousse. Another amazing vegan dish that will truly tingle your taste buds.
Stuffed Leaf of Bo La Lot is a ground wagyu beef wrapped in perilla leaf marinated in lemongrass with labne, fermented honey and pickled shallots and cilantro that was as yummy as a stuffed leaf gets. Our wine moved to Domaine Serre Besson Cru Vinsorbes 2019, a red Rhone blend we all loved and matched the meat and ingredients to perfection. I did notice that Chef Kevin has a become a bit tamer with some of the spiciness, using more fun ingredients but not overpowering. Every bite all night indeed made us want more of Moon Rabbit!
A new wine arrived as we took a break and enjoyed a delicious Chateau Magneau 2018 Graves Cab/Merlot Bordeaux (from near our new home!) and then the three "entree dishes arrived simultaneously, and we feasted: 
Late Summer Cecamariti (Banh Tam Bi Chay) is a delicious hand rolled rice noodle with spinach & coconut sauce, pickled green tomato, sunflower crumble, charred snap peas, fried enoki mushrooms and pea tendrils. Another amazing veggie dish that will have you oohing and aahing! 
Shrimp Thermador (Tom Hoang De) were huge U-5 Myanmar Tiger Prawns that were gloriously grilled with a Lobster Sabayon, herbs and Meyer Lemon and
Fried Quail & Tomato Rice (Chim Cut Chien)(I am glad it was not real "chien") was stuffed with duck sausage on a crispy tomato rice with clementine mustard and herbs.
We finished off the wine and then enjoyed a rest while we drank Chrysanthemum Tea with Pandan and Mint Syrup. 
We were becoming quite full and almost went into shock when Chef Kevin and the kitchen team arrived with what they called the Royal Flush, every dessert on the menu and more!
We were served Hana Makegeolli Tajku and unfiltered rice wine from Korea but made in Brooklyn that had a slight fizz and intensity, making it a dessert in itself.
-Seaweed (Rong Bien) is a pandan panna cotta with coconut creme, sake and coconut granite, chocolate streusel and seaweed that defies description and was one of our favorites. 
-Mango with Creamy Chocolate Cremieux, Perfilla Foam and Popping Mango Boba was very rich, while
-Mushroom (Nam) was a Chocolate Mousse, Tamarind Caramel, Wild Mushroom Streusel and Chanterelle Ice Cream
-Durian(Sau Rieng) is not to everyone's taste, but this was a fun version with durian mousse, passionfruit granita, white chocolate mousse and micro dill!
-Crepe Cake was made with Strawberries and Laughing Cow Creme Anglaise (who knew?) and Guava Jam and was like an Asian Cheesecake
-Curry (ca Ri) is a green curry sponge cake with avocado Sorbet, soursop mousse, fish sauce caramel finger lime
-Apple (Qua Tao) is a robiola cheesecake with compresses cosmic apples, malted barley streusel, pink apple sorbet, sake and honey
Needless to say, dessert here is mandatory and very very very different from what you might get anywhere I have ever been!
A bottle of Dekeyne & Fils, "Vogloniers" 2019 Champagne arrived to our delight and was followed by Mignardises of Chocolate Passionfruit Truffles and Tapioca Corn Pudding Puffs that were literally "the icing on the cake." Well, NO, I don't like icing, and the corn puffs were fab!
The Menu at Moon Rabbit is quite large, very varied and there is something for EVERYONE! I know we will be back again soon to try even more. Many thanks to Chef Kevin and the entire amazing team there for a night that we shall long remember!

Thursday, September 12, 2024

Big Bravos for LE BISTRO in Vienna, VA (9-11-24)

 We've been dining in Vienna a lot lately as our friends Chef Roberto Donna (Roberto's) and Chef Tracy O'Grady (Clarity) and some others have settled down out there and the dining scene is growing. Earlier this year the Donnas opened LE BISTRO, a truly French bistro/bar across the street from Roberto's and have placed Chef Steven Scott (who has worked on and off with Roberto for 4 decades) at the helm. 

Last night we were invited to an introductory wine and hor's d'oevres reception at Le Bistro and decided to stay for dinner as ww had hauled the 45 minutes out to Vienna during the rush hour! It was worth it as we enjoyed drinks and wonderful wines including a superb St. Emilion Bordeaux blend that manager Fulop Kosz poured from a large carafe! There were lots of fabulous snacks especially the Escargots, Anchovy Tart, Deviled Eggs, Spicy Pate de Campagne (it needed that red or the Alsatian Pinot Gris!) and more. We missed the Boeuf Bourguignon.  needless to say, Chef Roberto and his amazing wife Nancy were front and center schmoozing and hosting to perfection. 

After an hour or so of chatting we settled into the cozy restaurant at the rear with wonderfully comfy chairs and simple decor with bistro signs and decided we could manage only a main course. 
The wine list was simple but had many choices by the glass and bottle and we loved the Chateauneuf du Pape -Comte de Lauze, Vielle Vignes, France, 2020. Full of body and great for almost anything.
Will and I decided to split to mains and the huge pot of Mouclade or mussels had several variations, and we chose the Chorizo, Tomato and Cream Sauce (and they eliminated the fennel!) with a huge container of yummy frites. The Duck Confit Leg was two whole leg/thigh portions (perfect to split) rock salted and served with thyme, duck fat potatoes, in a tasty shallot & red wine sauce.
Everything was so good we decided to go back for the two upcoming wine dinners: Chateauneuf du Pape on September 26 and a dinner with Chef Gerard Pangaud on Ocotber 27!

Friday, September 06, 2024

DC's Michelin-starred OYSTER, OYSTER is an organic vegan delight and yes, ONE oyster(optional)! (9-4-24)

 Friends of ours who are pescatarian asked us to go out for dinner and we planned way ahead and decided we had to try OYSTER, OYSTER as its tasting menu which apparently sells out way in advance was getting huge raves. In 2023 they also garnered their first Michelin star and the James Beard Award for outstanding chef! When the reservations finally opened up (it was not easy to determine how many days ahead this would happen as it is not always 30 days!) I grabbed 4 seats and was promptly instructed that the entire amount for dinner with tax and tip must be prepaid. (that's $135+20%=tax each). they have a 48 hour cancel period but paying in full up front does irk me a tad. I am fine with a deposit, and then of course, we had to get our friends to reimburse us!

We anxiously awaited the day and arrived at our 6pm time and loved the adorable small setting with super comfy (and very supportive for your back) gray leather booths and tables on two small levels facing the small open kitchen where the staff was hard at work.
Our super adorable server, Andy, came over to explain and confirm our allergies/dislikes. This was odd as just two days prior I got a text asking for this information as well and supplied it instantly. I am sorry to say that it must have not been retained and even then, the mail seemed to have some dishes that we really were not crazy about the flavors or had some food issues with (licorice, lots of fennel and some sesame seeds in particular).
A small cup of cantaloupe broth with local peppers, mint and fig leaf oil was a superb refreshing start. Andy and the rest of the team explained each dish at length and even gave the names of the local organic farmers and purveyors that they used. 
We perused the wonderful wine list and spoke to the sommelier and settled on a Canary Island white as our friends had just returned from there and we are going in November!
The first course of three amuses arrived and we were searching for our wine. She finally returned saying they were out and suggested a Chapui & Chapui "Bouzeron" 2021 which was a creamy Bourgogne Aligote that we all loved. The amuses were all superb, the Crispy Celery Root nest came filled with a Smoked Tofu Puree that you would have sworn was pate! The single oyster (alternate veggie option for those who do not eat fish) was a Valiant from Chincoteague and had a superb Preserved Green Strawberry puree with Shiso Leaf and Oil. The Compressed Cucumber had a Shiitake & Tomato XO with Delfino Cilantro and Sesame Seeds(none for me!) and was okay but won no prizes.
All dishes are on FB.
We all loved the Celebration of Tomatoes, a bowl loaded with all kinds of local heirloom tomatoes with ground cherries, licorice basil pesto(yes, I could taste it, but not overpowering), pickled Mexican gherkins and fermented Koji peanut broth poured tableside.  The next course was excellent as well, but for us, marred by the intense fennel--hence licorice taste. Roasted Carrots (Mokum, Atlas and more--who knew!?) were topped with fennel and in a fennel sauce with buckwheat groats, kraut and poblano chili confit. I would have really gone nuts about this dish with a tad less fennel. The sommelier was so excited about the dish she insisted we try a taste of Sauvignon Blanc from Audrey Pilorjet in the Loire called "Box" which was indeed ideal with the dish. The name was funny, but it thankfully comes in a bottle and is really not too citrusy or grassy.

One of our favorite courses was the Garleek Bread which was garlic & leek served with the most amazing Marigold (vegan) butter made with sunflower seeds as well. Our gluten-free guest got special bread as well, and we ultimately begged for more, which did arrive later! We were desperately searching for the sommelier to bring our red wine, but there seemed to be something wrong, and she had disappeared. The restaurant is quite small with maybe a dozen or so tables, so we got concerned when our next dish arrived quite fast, even though we had asked for a longer break! The Hmong Rice Grits had corn, Jimmy Nardello peppers and a lemon-thyme forth that was excellent and the "main" course was a Stuffed Summer Squash stuffed with Terracotta (a vegan ricotta) and served with foraged Mushrooms (the other Oyster), Black Truffle shavings and a Squash Blossom and Zucchini Sauce. It was excellent and we begged for a long break before dessert and thankfully our red arrived mid-course. Wenzel "Franky" Wild is a 2022 Burgenland, Austria Blaufrankisch that was ideal with the rich veggies, although it had a slight effervescence that was not as welcome. 
We were grateful for the 15-minute break before the yummy dessert arrived of Upside-Down Peach Cake on Donut Peach with Caramelized Peach Sauce, Pecan Cream (Mousse) and Lemon Verbena Oil. Andy brought over a glass of Cremant de Loire from Paul Boisse for us to celebrate our friend's birthday which was a nice gesture and them we got some yummy Shiitake (vegan) Chocolate Chip cookies.
We loved Oyster, Oyster, but we were a tad discouraged with the timing. Please note we finished the entire meal in less than 2 hours and this is a place you should be enjoying each bite and lingering, just like most excellent Michelin star destinations. We regretted the fennel and licorice as well and the red wine appeared truly too late. It's a fun place with superb food and the team there is excellent and just needs to tighten up a tad. Maybe that will garner another star!



Tuesday, September 03, 2024

Arlington's MUSSEL BAR makes magnificent deals and meals (9-2-24)

 I have been on the email list for the Marcel's restaurant group for ages and while we have dined at many of the places, I had not tried MUSSEL BAR & GRILLE in Arlington, Virginia's kin to the now departed Beck's in DC.

I got an email recently about their Labor Day deals and could not resist booking with the $32 all you can eat mussels special, not to mention the $1 frites add-on and $5/glass wines!! 
I loved the decor with the really cool lighting fixtures made out of empty wine bottles as well as hanging nautical ship ropes with light bulbs. On arrival the guy could not find my reservation, so he called over someone else and when he said I could sit anywhere (the place was quite empty) I said between the large circular bar and the open kitchen at a table was great. He then said the happy hour specials are no good, so I moved to a booth a few feet away nearer the bar which was valid for all the deals! I ordered a glass of happy hour Sangria which was delish and then asked which oysters were served for $2- on the happy hour menu and which wines were on the $5 deal. He said he would check and about 20 minutes later the manager, Autumn, came over to apologize; there was apparently a language issue. She took my order for a 1/2 dozen oysters, and they arrived with the Thai Chili Mussels in a huge cast iron pan right behind. The fries arrived and were sweet potato (not the regular potato) that I asked for, but they were so good and the three aiolis that come with them are super (the plain mayo was okay, but the two spicier ones were great!).  The oysters were yummy, and I loved the shallot mignonette, while the Thai Curry Mussels come with peanuts which I can't ever recall before and I loved them. The mussels were plump and the sauce thick enough to mop up with the French bread! 
I had a glass of the house Sauvignon Blanc first ($5!) and then a yummy Pinot Noir. I talked with Autumn about the wine, and she was quite nice as I rested in preparation for round two. I chose the smaller portion of Mussels with Bacon & Mushrooms which were also fabulous. I loved the large pieces of tasty pasty bacon and tried to avoid the fattier lardon chunks of which there were only a few; the mushrooms were super and again the oysters plump, while the sauce was super-moppable!
I was full and the price was right for sure. There are lots of deals and happy hour specials throughout the week here and not just on Labor Day, so if you like mussels, check out the deals at Mussel Bar & Grille, not to mention all the other yummy things on the menu I will have to try next time!