Monday, December 25, 2023

LA's Le COMPTOIR conquers again (12-23-23)

 When Samuel first moved to LA in March 2022, I was thrilled to find that there was a superb veggie tasting menu offered at LE COMPTOIR in Hollywood/Koreatown and thee two of us had a super time on our first visit there. The review is posted in this blog (March 2022) and you will see that this intimate storefront space in the Normandie Hotel is limited to 12 seats and only open Thursday, Friday and Saturday nights as well. The eight course tasting plus amuse is a set price paid when booked and the experience is worth every cent.

We returned again as we wanted Will to experience this unique dining treat seated at the counter facing Michelin-starred Chef Gary Menes (and on Friday, his assistant Chef Alan) at the counter bar behind which they create this journey through local ingredients that varies by season, though retains a similar feel menu-wise, so not a place you would go every week. 
We decided to do the wine pairings which are 7 smallish pours for $105, but some are rare and quite pricey wines. There are various supplements available such as the $125(!!) pasta with white truffles which Samuel did and the cheese course ($20) instead of dessert, which one of us did. The Wagyu main course runs $35 and is also worth it(we ordered one so Will and I could have the veggie main and the Wagyu to split).

The Amuse(all photos on FB) is always Kale "Chips n DIp" and our dip was a relish like ranch. Alan poured the Pouilly Fume Vieilles Vignes 2021 from Regis Minet(the same wine I had last time--different vintage) and we polished off the pour before we realized it was for the first course not the amuse! Alan did come back with some more later on. The first course was a Mendoza Farms Asparagus Veloute with a small mound of tart Cashew Greek Yogurt(vegan) and Sourdough bread croutons for a crunch. Flowers and Nasturtium leaves are on top for decoration. The rich soup was countered by the sour tart yogurt.

The second course takes quite some time for the chefs to assemble as it is called "Vegetable & Fruit" Plate and has up to 45 different ingrendients. We had 45 and it was impressive as the chefs layered on the various ingrendients each cooked differently with different styles and seasonings. There were bok choy, pea pods, celery, beans, Japanese eggplant, beets(many kinds), carrots (many kinds), squashes, onion, radishes, mushroom, cauliflowers, Brussels sprout, peppers, persimmon, orange, almond and so much more. Some were pickled, some charred, some sauteed; every which way it is a fund and tasty treat. The wine was a Jasnieres Cuvee de Silex 2022 Sauvignon Blanc that had a hint of sweetness that is negated totally when you start to taste the veggies.

The third curse "Heirloom Farm Egg 'en cocotte" is a signature dish that does not vary and comes topped with Reggiano, lettuce from our garden(the lettuce may vary), brown butter, lemon, herbs and served with a huge piece of toasted Sourdough bread (from a 29-year old starter). The egg is cooked in a miniature cast iron pan and each one topped with the cheese, lettuces and then bathed in butter! I love this dish and am so glad that nothing ever changes. Chateau Depire 2022 Grand Cru Savonnieres is a divine paring as well.

Our fourth course was a Sprouting Cauliflower Tempura served with two sauces and a confit grape tomato topped with chervil. Turnip Green Pistou gave me a great new idea for making pesto(beet greens are apparently great as well) and a Romesco Sauce was yummy as well. St. Aubin Premier Cru "Les Cortons" from Domaine LaRue was another great treat.

For the next course there were Blue Lake Beans atop Onion Rissole and Land Race Rye(berries, like wheat berries), Grape-Pistachio Vierge, Parsley and served in a Savory Broth. On its own, the broth was not exceptional, but once combined with all the ingredients, especially the crunchy rye berries, I was thrilled. 2022 Chinon "Les Beaux Monts" from Catherine & Pierre Breton was another amazing white wine.

For the next course Sam chose the Hand Cut Pasta alla Chitarra smothered in White Truffles from Alba, Italy shaved at the counter by Chef Gary (video on FB) and while rich and creamy was alas overpowered by too much salt making the truffle falvor less intense than it should have been. Final assessment: not worth the $125 price tag!

Our sixth course was Snow Peas, Japanese Mountain Yam, red Frill(lettuce), Red Plum in a divine Sauce Vin Rouge and served with a Poderi Colla 2020 Nebbiolo!
The veggie main was Chanterelle Mushrooms, Scallion, Pencil Cob Grits, Hearts of Romaine all in a Sauce Perigourdine which was delish and served with a Cune Grand Reserva 2016 Tempranillo from Rioja. The wine paired brilliantly with the American Wagyu with Pomme Pont Neuf (a potato designed to look like the famous bridge in Paris), Pea Tendrils and a Sauce Bordelaise. This was well worth the $35 supplement and the meat was as tender as it gets cooked to perfection.

The final course again remains the same and is chef's Donut Hole served with Chocolate, Chantilly Creme and Gaviota Strawberry Preserve so you can dip in all three sauces.
The cheese (for$20) varies by season as well and ours was yummy: Mt. Tam(California) triple creme, a UK Cheddar and St. Augur Blue(France) served with the Sourdough but now with almond and cherries as well as a local honey made in Long Beach.

Le Comptoir is a haven of French cuisine in LA that is a treat and not to be missed one of a kind dining experiences.