On our last trip to London we were subject to the 5-day Covid quarantine on arrival and as soon as we emerged headed to FROG by Michelin-starred chef Adam Handling just around the corner from Covent Garden. It was an amazing experience that we knew we needed to return to. Last night, after almost two years, we returned and even hostess Kelly even remembered us! The restaurant has been magnificently redone and while still small with only ten or so tables, now has chic white leather tabletops and gorgeous comfy taupe velvet chairs. I searched for the color with my color-blindness issues and our magnificent server, Florine from the Netherlands suggested "old pink" which I immediately translated to the Dutch "oude rose!!"
A beautiful menu sits in a sleeve at each place setting and explains the philosophy of the cuisine and there is a map of the UK showing where all the different local ingredients come from, which, as a cartographer, I loved. The tasting menu here is 195pounds ($185US). This may seem like a lot, but remember that all tax is included, although a 15% gratuity is added; and frankly the service is so brilliant, they deserve more! We settled in for over 4 hours of entertainment, magnificent food and a true dining experience that is unique and one of the best around.
A glass of champagne is always called for starters so Will chose the Brimoncourt Brut Rose which was dark red and very fruity, while I loved the lighter and more traditional Billecart-Salmon Rose.
The "SNACKS" arrived and there are always five presented together (there is a video on FB as well as the requisite photos): Fennel, Dill & something tarte, Duck Egg Custard with Parmesan, Charcoal Wafer with Burnt Lemon Gel & marigolds, Pea Panna Cotta with Fresh English peas, and Lamb & Kimchi. All were tons of fun and the custard gets a shot of liquid nitrogen for effect.
As we finished off our aperitifs of champagne, sommelier Guiseppe arrived with our first wine from the pairing, Taittinger "Prelude" Grand Cru to have as we finished the snacks and then got a refill for the next course of soup which was a small cup of leftover potato skins mixed with almond milk and crumbled macadamia nuts. Florine reached into a large plant sitting on the table and pulls out a vial of green juice made from lovage, sorrel and apple skins which was added to the cup to create the crunchiest fun soup creation that had an interesting almost fermented feel to it.
One of the signature dishes here that is on every menu is Chicken Butter. There is an explanation that this is an homage to the leftovers from the English Sunday dinner which the chef had on Monday, but I could eat this up every day. Last night there was also a magnificent rich chicken liver parfait to schmear on the bread alternately with the chicken butter as well as a reveal (more smoke) of Smoked BBQ Chicken wings(boneless) with Fennel Pollen and Tarragon. The wings were good, but paled next to the bread and its spreads.
Guiseppe was always there with extra pours as we moved on to an Omachi Dewazakura Junmai Ginjo Sake "Jewel Brocade" which is made from 55% polished rice and was as smooth as could be. It went with the Cornish Brown Crab sitting on Crab Custard with Smoked Cream, Citrus Drizzle & Elderflowers which also came with a liquid nitrogen reveal. While the UK crabs may not compare with ours from Maryland, this dish was a dreamy creation that really showed off the crustacean and enhanced it to no end.
There was an extra course option which we could resist entitled "All about the Sturgeon" which was worth the extra 35pounds indeed. The simple waffle has a hot smoked emulsion and was smothered with EXMOOR Caviar from Devon. The caviar is called Royal Belusca and is a grey colour but is as good as any we have ever had, perhaps a tad less salty. Florine drizzled a birch syrup over the top (think waffles and a tad of syrup smothered with caviar!) and the extra course got an extra wine(at no charge) in the form of Domaine Gardies 2021 "Clos de Vignes" Grenache Blanc from Languedoc-Roussillon.
Back on the regular menu we next had BBQ Scallop (from the Orkney Islands in Scotland) with Pickled Squash slices, Fermented Cauliflower leaves, Chili Miso Marinade and a Smoked Shellfish Roe foam. This was a spicy fun dish and I was thrilled to see a UK chef using so much spice. Guiseppe arrived with a Vallisto Extremo Torrontes from Argentina 2021 "Blanco de Pietes" which oozed vanilla, spice and had lots of skin contact from the grapes so it looked "orange" but was a delicious treat to match the magnificent caviar.
The fish course was called "Perception of British Food" and was a Steamed Cornish Cod with Tartare Sauce(I tasting nothing like what we all tartare sauce!), Caramelized Whey, Preserved Lemon and Batter Scraps. Capers and a Fermented Wild Garlic Mousse finished off the dish. Think deconstructed battered cod and that is what this was. Principe Pallavacini Malvasia Puntinata 2021 "Roma" was a perfect white pairing.
There is a choice between Balmoral Chicken or lamb for the meat dish and we both chose the Herdwick Lamb with Asparagus that comes in two forms: cannon of lamb(or back) and belly. There was a delish Spicy Pepper sauce and ragu of green tomato with black garlic and barely a hint of mint. The wine was our only red, Gamay & Pinot Noir blend from Domaine de Veilloux 2019 in the Loire that was on the lighter side for sure. I might have chosen a slightly heftier red for the lamb, but the wine was delish nonetheless.
Our pre-dessert was a yummy but I honestly forgot what is was, despite the foto on FB!
The main dessert was called Raspberry(fermented raspberry and tuille), Pine and Oat Cake which is called Cranachan in Scotland and also had yogurt. Think of it as a Scottish Linzer Torte and you might get close. Wine arrived in the form of a tasty Recioto de Soave 2018 from La Perlara "Ca' Rugate" that had a wonderful acidity to balance the sweetness of the golden nectar.
Just when you thought it might be finished, Florine arrived with a giant box (from a magnum of Krug champagne) that held a huge selection of mignardises of all sorts. We chose ours and then homemade Bailey's mixed with Johnny Walker Scotch was poured. Not being fans of Bailey's we were skeptical, but this was not so sweet and really was fun, and the scotch made it absolutely delightful!
We can't wait to come back again as FROG is always FUN and such a great foodie experience that is not to be missed.
