We were downtown for a concert on Saturday night so we headed to CENTROLINA where Chef Amy Brandwien is in charge and always offers up some of the best modern Italian cuisine in town and the place is always hopping. We had not been since before Covid, so it was a nice reunion indeed.
We ordered a bottle of Bibi Graetz 2020 Casamatta Vermentino from Tuscany which had all kinds of minerality and acidity as well as lemony-pineapple notes. Our server Tim also suggested our red, the Nerello-Mescalese 2015 from Terazze dell' Etna in Sicily that was fruit forward and earthy! We loved them both.
I started with the Pesce Spada (fotos on FB) or swordfish carpaccio sliced thin and so tasty with roasted plum and lime zest. I adored this novel take on carpaccio. Will had the Fritto of tempura fried halibut with agave nectar, orange and jalapeno.
I know things have changed in the restaurant biz, but I do regret having to pay for bread, but it was all delish with focaccia, breadsticks and crusty country bread.
Our friend ordered the while Branzino (without the head) and it looked luscious with potato confit, roasted tomato, basil and olive. Will's Paccheri was pasta with braised octopus, tomato, fennel and garlic bread crumbs and my Pappardelle was decadently rich with chestnuts, white Bolognese sage sauce & Parmigiano.
We are indeed grateful that certain dining spots don't change and that's indeed one great thing about the conquering cuisine of Centrolina
