As Will was flying off to LA to see Sam for the holiday weekend, I decided to partake of the set menu at Marcel's in DC's West End on New Year's Eve. It was a pricey menu indeed for $275, but well worth it and indeed it was like a homecoming as it must be over 1/2 a decade since our last visit there.
Chef/Owner Robert Wiedmaier was nowhere in sight, but his team was in charge, and everything went as smoothly as could be. On arrival I got a warm greeting and hug from Moez, who has been there for ages and is always a warm welcome as well as a brilliant sommelier! I had not seen Jonathan Crayne in ages as he now only works an occasional Saturday night, but what a treat to see his huge smile. Of course, everyone asked why I was alone, but a quick explanation about Will cleared that up!! Isat down and noticed a framed blue silk scarf entitled "Aida" by Erté on the wall, a duplicate of one we have at home! It seems that Chef Robert's late aunt collected them, so now they adorn the restaurant. The dining room is as cozy and comfy and classy as it has ever been, and this is why Marcel's has always been one of the top fine dining establishments in DC for decades!
A glass of G.H. Mumm's Brut Rose appeared courtesy of Moez and was the perfect match to the amuse of Cauliflower Flan, Smoked Trout Roe and a piece of edible Gold Leaf for fun. Served in an eggshell, it was a kickback to Jean-Louis Palladin who first created this type of dish right here in DC. The flan was creamy and rich, and the roe popped for flavor.
I asked Moez about wines and he said he would take care of pairings and not to worry about the pour size as he has a heavy hand!! First came a Macon La Roche Vineuse 2018 from Sylvain & Alain Normand which had a lemon zest nose and a good deal of acidity to work with the next course: Bay Scallops with Fermented Garlic, Champagne Glaçage, Garlic Croutons and Osetra Caviar. The garlic had a kick and the dish had the feel of a gratinée, although no cheese was present! Thank goodness for the warm French bread to mop up all the fabulous sauces.
Moez arrived with a Post & Beam(from the folks at Far Niente) 2021 Chardonnay from California which was wonderfully creamy and rich but not with any oakiness or obnoxious intensity that so many California chards can have! Lobster Timbale was another decadent rich dish with Butter Poached Lobster atop and Sauce Américaine that was dark, complex and yet not so intense as to overpower the lobster.
The next course was the winner of the entire evening and will go down as one of the best fish courses ever: Pan Seared Turbot was swathed in thick slabs of Burgundy Truffles with Robuchon Potatoes ,Potato Crisps and a Truffle Sabayon. (By the way photos are on FB). The clue to the evening was clearly decadence and the sabayon was so magnificent and the truffles on the fish so divine, the combination was simply heavenly. Haut Cotes de Nuit Albert Bichot 2019 was the perfect pairing as well!
Many folks are passing up Foie Gras these days but after last night's preparation, I doubt anyone would decline the Pan Seared Foie Gras with Chestnut Purée, Braised Chestnut & Port Reduction over a small Brioche slice. Moez said there was also date jam in the dish and because of this offered up two wines: Muscat Beaumes de Venise, Domaine de la Fenouillet as well as a Croft Tawny Port. I love the muscat and drank a tad before the dish arrived, but once settling in the port went quite well...hard choice here. I did save the rest of the port for with dessert.
My server was Milos from Serbia and we spoke about the issues there and in eastern Europe in general, but he was also a brilliant server in noting that I needed a rest or wanted to continue as the meal was long and lasted well over three hours, despite the fact that i was alone. It was also nice to have the live piano played in the front bar room that filtered into the main room I was in next door; the pianist was excellent.
The main course was an A5 Wagyu Filet with Charred Scallion & Ghent Mustard with Puffed Rice and was paired with a Gerin 2017 Saint Joseph from the Rhone that I loved with its earthy notes. Moez also offered up a glass of 2016 La Campine Syrah in case I needed something a little bigger! The meat was rare and superb, but by now I was beginning to fill up.
Dessert was a Vanilla Bean Mousse & Dark Chocolate Mousse with Jasmine Crémeaux, lace Tuile and Lemon verbena Ice Cream which cut the richness of the mousses with their little crunchy pieces!! Actually, the ice cream was like fireworks ending the evening! A single beautiful Chocolate Truffle was presented to end the evening, and as I rolled out, I bumped into friends who were in the other room that I did not even know were there!
All I can say is this was the perfect way to end the old year/begin the New Year!
