I first ventured to the then brand new NEW HEIGHTS across the street from the Omni Shoreham back in 1986. I was mightily impressed, and it was always a treat to dine there almost monthly at first under the management of owner Umbi Singh and his super talented staff. Attention to detail never failed from every dish that came out of the kitchen under so many chefs who went on to make a name for themselves to each server who seemed to truly care that we had a great dining experience. I remember learning about new wineries such as Murphy-Goode and I even remember brining our son Samuel there about 14 years ago where he enjoyed Rabbit Terrine two-ways and Quail, although he still won't forgive me for "making" him eat rabbit.
While New Heights was shuttered for some while recently, Umbi has passed the baton on to a new and brilliantly talented team that keeps the tradition he started burning bright. Indeed, our dinner on Sunday has us taken once again to new heights.
The new triumvirate is made up of Olena Fedorenko and her husband chef Jose Molina who hails from Bolivia, joined by Mark Namdar, all from the Graham Hotel in Georgetown. Olena welcomed us with warm arms and explained much of the ideas behind the menu including her native Ukranian Borscht (we chose starters that we could more easily share). They have redecorated the beautiful setting perfectly and there is even a corner dedicated to Olena's homeland, Ukraine.
We were served by Katya or Katarina, who is also from Ukraine and needless to say our concerns and thoughts were of their families as Katya's husband is fighting at home.
She was helpful, a super server and also the sweetest of souls.
We ordered three appetizers to share: Crispy Fried Oysters in Panko with Tartar Sauce and Pickled Cauliflower. The succulent mollusks come on top of a bed of arugula making it almost a side salad! Tempra Beech Mushroom Fries are a must and come with a Moroccan Spice Blend fired to perfection and two dipping sauces: Jalapeno Aioli & Truffle Mayo. Another treat was the Tuna Poke Tacos with Avocado Mash & Sesame Oil, which has three tacos, perfect for the three of us to share! Our wine was a refreshing Albarino from Mila in Riax Bais. Katya apologized that they were out of the Albarino (Bodegas Eidosela) that was on the menu, but came up with the perfect substitute.
we moved on to a yummy Barboursville Merlot 202 that might be young, but is drinking superbly. Our mains might have called for white, but we felt a light red was truly in order.
Free Range Chicken is Mustard & Herb Marinated and comes with a Rosemary Lemon Pepper Puree and Rainbow Bell Peppers. It's a juicy treat if you don't want red meat. Speaking of no red meat, the vegetarian option of Kale & Mushroom Paella with Saffron Rice, Sofrito, Oyster Mushrooms has fried kale on top with a fired egg resting on the whole miracle. My Pan-seared Branzino had crispy skin with Israeli Couscous and a simple sauce with capers. These were amazing dishes and we were so impressed we had to try desserts. Smore's is presented atop a small hibachi to melt the chocolate, cook the marshmallows and assemble the treat. It was fun, but a tad messy as well. Chocolate Pot de Creme was a rich silky version of the treat.
Everything was so perfect that we knew we would be back again soon. Besides after 35+ years how can we not head to New Heights?
