Monday, November 16, 2020

Middleburg's (VA) Red Fox Inn requires some tweaking (11-15-20) but has a terrific tasting menu

 Our last night bd before heading home was indeed in the "country" in Middleburg, VA just an hour from home. We opted to skip the hotel restaurant and head a 1/2 mile into the historic town, which turned out to be a great choice for the most part. The Red Fox Inn is an historic spot dating to the 17th century and while we ate outside, we did get to view the historic Tap Room after dinner. On arrival we were guided to a huge tent that had been erected over a slate patio. Eighteen or so wrought iron tables and chairs (with cushions!) were arranged over the space with decent distancing, especially since the place was empty at 7pm. There were plastic walls to protect from the cold, wind and rain and a giant heater generated more than enough warmth. It felt like we were indeed inside. 

After a while other folks began to arrive and the host(who we were told was new) kept seating everyone in our area rather than spacing us out. Our beyond brilliant server, Caroline, told us that was the way they seat folks for the servers to have it a bit easier. We all understood and then asked to be moved as there was so much space; another table also did the same thing.  Only about 6 tables were occupied and it made no sense for them to be all in one corner!
The only option here is a four course tasting menu for $125, which was elegant and varied, although two dishes featured butternut squash and two featured pears which was a bit lopsided, We ordered a bottle of 2016 Barboursville Vineyards Vermentino Reserve as the wine list had a wonderful selection of Virginia wines. It paired brilliantly with my superb starter of Butternut Squash & Sage Wontons which were fried perfectly and crispy and sat atop a mound of soft goat cheese with hazelnuts and plum chutney giving the dish a burst of flavors. Will's Lamb Meatballs were declared "unexciting" and came with feta, pine nuts, charred red onion and minted yogurt.
The next course fared better for Will with Butternut Squash Bisque (declared "delicious") with Creme Fraiche and Candied Pumpkin Seeds. I swooned over my Beets with Goat Cheese, and while the marinated beets were not as good as the smoked ones from the night before in Richmond, the overall salad was made a star from the large disc of Monocacy Ash Goat Cheese & two-tone crunchy rye croutons. A bit more arugula would have been welcome, and the beets were described as "whole grain mustard marinated beets," but they had no mustardy taste at all. Despite this, I adored the overall dish.
We moved on to a 2010 La Rioja "Vina Ardanza" Seleccion Especial Reserva which had tons of flavor and body which paired amazingly with our main courses:
Seared Duck Breast came with a Leek & Gruyere Bread Pudding which we both decalred to be the best part of the entire meal. We told Caroline it should be the star of the vegetarian option, and she said the staff always ordered it when they ate! Maple Sherry Brussels Spouts and Apricot-Orange Chutney rounded out the dish, which was alas marred by over-salting of the delicious duck. Will & I switched dishes halfway and I was even more shocked with the super salty yet gorgeously presented(FB photos) Rack of Venison special with Horseradish-Peppercorn Crust(I tasted no horseradish, just way too much salt--which luckily could be brushed off) on the Frenched rack and served with Parmesan Risotto, Roasted Beech Mushrooms and Port Reduction.
We were heartbroken when told the Caramelized Banana Bread Pudding on the dessert menu was replaced with a Cranberry -Orange version. Even Caroline said that nobody was ordering the new version as the old had been such a standard specialty of the Inn. We both chose the Vanilla Bean Custard with Butterscotch Sauce, Almond Cookie Crumble and Mascarpone Cream. It was rich and creamy and superb, more akin to a butterscotch pudding, but oddly tasted of salt!!! We did love it though as the salt was akin to salted caramel(I guess purposefully).
While the salt was an intrusion, it did not destroy our delicious dinner.

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