We started planning to go to The Test Kitchen, truly known as the top dining experience in all Africa, over a year ago. Reservations are accepted only on-line for a three month period on the first of the three months prior. For this August, our D-day was June 1, and I was set to wake at 2am EDT to make the booking when a dear friend of mine put me in touch with a genius concierge here in CapeTown who did all the dialing for us. He came through and the five of us headed to the old warehouse that the unassuming restaurant less than 10 minutes away from our hotel on the Waterfront. Our arrival was like a speakeasy(or the Wizard of Oz), where a head appeared through a hole in the door and asked our name before letting us in. Ushered into "the Dark Room" we were seated on a sofa and chairs with a low table. A map was laid in front of us (FB photos) showing where the chef had journeyed over his life and these destinations would be the sources of our six starters. A cocktail list was provided and we ordered away, not knowing we were allowed to try as many as we liked. They were all exciting and fun from my Papaya and Quince Margarita to my final Lapsang Souchong Old Fashioned. The Pink Drink-Num Num & Rose was beautiful and came in a non-alcoholic version for those not drinking as did the Apple Crumble.
The snacks began to arrive with the Billionaire (from Scotland) being proffered in a gold metal box. Porcini mushroom shortbread had truffle jelly, duck liver parfait, truffle infused dark chocolate and gold leaf. The vegetarian version was a Barley Tart with Parmesan, shitaki and radish. Indeed every allergy, dislike or other was completely accommodated with no questions!
Korea was represented with a tray of Baby Organic Vegetables(from a farm near Joburg) with a fermented soybean dip akin to gogujang called Ssamjang. The servers moved so fast, we really did not have one, as a team we can only say they were all terrific. One brought over small flakes of Marmite crumble which she mixed into the dip. While I do not care for Marmite, here the flavors all balanced out and it was barely noticeable. Indeed so many flavors were involved here, it was hard to discern them all.
Japan was a sushi-style tuna with a mustard cream powder(wasabi-powder-like), mustard greens and a piece of cabbage to roll the whole thing up with chopsticks. I managed to loose my chunk of superb grade tuna, but luckily it landed on my drink coaster and was saved!
Timing was of the essence here and we moved quickly and gobbled everything up as England arrived with a tray of huge Pork Cracklings that were cooked to perfection(crunchy and not greasy or hard) and seasoned with dehydrated Jerusalem Artichoke salt(made with Malden Sea Salt from the UK). A pewter-like tankard partially filled with Guinness Stout was placed next to the tray and our server poured burnt flower foam into it to make a creamy beer-based dip for the yummy delights.
Tartare is always a highlight, but we moved onto South Africa for Blesbok, one of the great delights of this country's game foods, prepared with chilli dressing on a pumpernickel crisp with beetroot, smoked garlic aioli, truffle red wine puree and parmesan. I adored my ostrich tartare the night before, and both dishes deserve great merit, but this bite(or two) was a revelation. (Sam got all beetroot in his)
Mauritius moved in next with a Coconut Langoustine on a chick pea crisp with coriander pesto, and creme fraiche. A frozen shellfish & coconut oil was shaved over the dish which was also dressed with turmeric, compressed apple and yuzu jelly. The non-shellfish folk had a burrata dish similarly prepared without the frozen oil.
Our journey in the "Dark Room" ended in India with Lamb roti(tofu for Sam) which had Masala cured lamb with peanut salsa, compressed cucumber, charred jalapeno, lime labneh topped with dried angel hair chillis.
We were escorted into the next room, a large bright open space with about 15 tables and some bar seating at the huge open kitchen space as Mariette Sparkling Chardonnay from Stofberg was poured for us all as the ensuing 8 course menu was described. It was hard to absorb everything, but it was clear this was the deal of the century with the price per person at 1800Rand(about $105) and only 750($44)-750($53) rand more for wine parings of various levels. There was also an amazing tea(served chilled) pairing option for $23(400rand) for those who do not drink alcohol, which was extremely thoughtful.
Duck Fat & Roast Potato skin bread arrived with a Roasted Stinging Nettle Oil & Salted Butter, but we tried to refrain from eating the adorable miniature loaves placed before each of us knowing what was ahead.
I asked the server about the large recyclable paper napkins and they explained it was to avoid washing linens due to the water crisis.
Smoked Scallop Sashimi in Mushroom Ponzu with Jerusalem Artichoke and Shaved Fresh Truffle was first and deliciously light. For the top level wine pairing which we choose a Hokusetsu YK35 Daiginjo Sake was the perfect foil.
"Winter Citrus" was Naartjie(Satsuma) & Dill Snow, King Crab and Trout over a Lime Yogurt Panna Cotta which was revealed with liquid nitrogen and adorned with the most colorful of miniature flower petals. Sam got a similar presentation with Turnip & Kohlrabi! Iona One Man Band White 2016 from Elgin was a delicious blend of Sauvignon Blanc & Semillon.
TTK Poke Bowl was rice, master stock jelly, kimchi cucumber, sesame and more flower petals with a skewer of perfectly cooked Wild Boar laying atop the small cup-like bowl. The meat was perfection, and the wine was a Spieonkop Riesling 2016 also from Elgin. The tea pairing here was called Genmaicha which was a funky flavored tea reminiscent of the detested orange wine!
More tartare arrived in the form of Smoked Beef with Red Wine Onion Dressing, Frozen Celery Leaf Pesto, Horseradish Foam and Yorkshire Tuiles, the name of which was the brunt of several "tree" jokes. The tuiles it turned out was a deconstructed Yorkshire pudding crisp like flatbread (for those, who don't know Yorkshire Pudding think popover). The wine was a crisp Jean Roikap Provincial Rose 2016 from nearby Franschoek, where we head tomorrow for three days in wine country! Sam got a cauliflower and parmesan tartare substitute which incidentally had the same smoky aromas and flavours that ours did!
The next course offered a choice and since we were two couples we chose to each order one and switch halfway. In the amazing 3-3/4 hour long meal, these were the only two courses that did not totally blow me away or impress to no end as indeed every other bite all night did. Market Fish was a local Red Roman (from the Indian Ocean) with Black Forest Ham & Fish Bone Extraction, Walnut Cream, Anchovy Puree and a braised Octopus Tentacle as well. It arrived with a delicious Mulderbosch 2009 Chardonnay which was showing its age beautifully. The other choice was the Pig Head Salad with Pork Pie consisting of Confit of Pig Jowl with Red Cabbage, Blue Cheese and Celeriac Crepe. The Paul Cluver Seven Flags Pinot Noir 2013 also from Elgin was quite dry and unlike our Oregon Pinots did not exhibit huge forward fruits and was much drier, but was delicious nonetheless.
Our main main was Springbok with Beetroot, Bone Marrow, Hazelnut, Curd & Cacao Nibs as well as Duck Liver, Dukka Crumbs and crunchy Fried Beetroot slices(like the Terra chips we get at home, but tiny). Boekenhoutskloof Cabernet Sauvignon 2004 also from Franschoek was a wonderful full bodied ready to drink Cab that was simply brilliant.
Pear Trifle was a pre-dessert with Bourbon Ice Cream with Creme fraiche, Victoria Sponge(cake), Poached Pear and Gels with coffee beans followed by the "TTK Banana Split" composed of Banana Jam, Coffee Sherbert, almond chocolate ganache over a banana cocoa nib cake with banana ice cream and pistachio crumb.
A yummy Klein Constantia 2011 Vin de Constance was sweet, yet not super viscous and had acidity to it akin to a Sauternes.
As if this were not enough a plate of freeze dried raspberries, rhubarb gummy bears, black currant gummy bears, custard shortbread with rhubarb jelly and blood orange ganache and indigenous bachu-herbs----PLEASE don't ask.
It was not only tons of fun and one of the best dining experiences ever, it was indeed quality ingredients that had our taste buds bursting over and over with each and every mouthful.
Oh what a night.
The staff here all work together as a team and when we asked for a 15minute break before the Springbok, no questions were asked; everyone did an amazing job, but it was Louise we remember for her kindness and patience while I wrote everything down....and am still having trouble sorting it out here.
