Wednesday, April 18, 2018

Adams Morgan's BROTHERS & SISTERS in the new LINE Hotel lifts dining to deliciousness (4-15-18)

New places are popping up constantly in DC and we just can't keep up as we try to cut back on our food intake, but Sunday night we asked two of our dearest friends to join us at the brand new BROTHERS & SISTERS at the LINE Hotel(https://www.thelinehotel.com/dc/venues/) smack in the center of Adams Morgan here in DC. Sunday night was a good choice as parking is not to hard(although they have valet for a fee). The restaurant is the creation of Chefs Erik Bruner-Yang & Harper McClure who sure can cook up a storm in this quite vast venue. We were four, but our two sons took another table separately(teenagers cannot be seen with their parents as we are an embarrassment), which worked out quite well. The old bank conversion offers a two story dome-like room with seating on both levels as well as two bars to the extreme left and right in separate glass-walled rooms(which are much quieter). Indeed the central room is also the hotel lobby with sofas, benches and tables all mixed together. I have to admit that if I was a hotel guest entering from the front, I might find it hard to navigate through the hostess stand, lobby and more to find the front desk, located in a free standing cage-like bank teller's booth. 
We were greeted warmly(we were early) and had to wait several minutes for the table and looked around at the vast space, but have to say the noise level was not that unbearable; once we moved to our table talking was really not an issue. Our server Miller was a gem, and while she guided us, we took charge making the choices and asking for each group of dishes to be staggered; it worked perfectly. We ordered a bottle of Averaen Pinot Noir 2015 from the Willamette Valley in Oregon which came as a 2015 and was a superb choice with tons of fruit. We thought about white wine, but it was so cold, we hit on this lighter red and actually had 2 bottles of it before proceeding to a heavier Bodegas Las Orcas Solar de Randez "Finca de Angel" Tempranillo (listed at 2011, but vintage 2014 appeared)from Rioja Alavesa in Spain. The wine was served by Cuong and at one point he asked if we used to go to Gabriel at the Barceló Hotel(now Palomar Dupont Circle) and he remembered us from all the places where now moved to Australia Chef Greggory Hill used to be. WOW!
The starters are broken into cold plates and hot plates and then there are plates to share and larger plates. We stuck to the first three and loved sharing EVERYTHING. An amazing UNI(Sea Urchin) platter arrived with profiteroles and condiments ranging from Himalayan salt to scallions, cooked egg white and yolk, EVOO, red and white onion, creme fraiche and a whipped pork lard. These were added to the delectable uni in each warm profiterole and was an amazing burst of flavor in the mouth.  What a treat! We ordered the Oysters with Uni which came three to the order and were amazing with a light tasty cucumber mignonette; a good option if you like oysters and don't want to get the whole Uni platter. Big Eye Tuna Crudo was superb with a light Coconut vinaigrette while the Avocado Salas with Five Grains and Hazelnuts was a true winner; one of the best salads ever in truth. There are many veggie options as well and we adored both the Brussels Sprouts with Urfa Ranch that packed a spice punch and was loaded with sautéed onions as well as the Cauliflower with Creme Fraiche amazingly prepared with a spicy vegan nouc cham(Asian fish sauce)-OMG!! My only complaint is that the menu descriptions tend to be two or three words and if you don't like an ingredient when the item comes you might be in trouble(for example the onions in the Brussels sprouts).
French Fries here are not be missed served with a ton of kicky earthy seasonings and a béarnaise dipping sauce. The Octopus Hot Dog is a revelation with Yuzu kosho as it really looks like a hot dog and has amazing flavor akin to one.
Straciatella(cheese) comes with black garlic and while a nice dish was my least favorite, but then I adored EVERYTHING!
Cacio e Pepe Mushrooms were with black truffles and truly looked like pasta, but was actually mushrooms with cheese and pepper.
Duck Ballotine was a sliced breast cooked beautifully and served with peas and beet gastrique.
The winner was the Beef Short Rib Burger with Mornay sauce that is a monstrous burger served on a giant parker-house like roll that is separated into four rolls joined together(see FB for photos) and is easily split 4 ways, so perfect to share and you may even want to get a second one! It comes over the tasty seasoned fries to boot! Who knew?
My other complaint is that when you are sharing dishes, serving spoons should be proffered as it is really not in the best health interests to use the forks or knives you have been eating with.
One dessert was ordered to go by our friends, but there was no way we could eat another bite after having so many superb dishes.
Bravi to the entire team on this new and exciting dining venue!!