Monday, November 27, 2017

DC's SIREN serves up spectacular seafood and service (11-25-17)

Siren by Robert Wiedmaier opened earlier this year in  the spanking new Darcy Hotel off Scott Circle at 1515 Rhode Island Ave, NW (www.sirenbyrw.com) and I had planned to get there earlier in the summer, but was waylaid by an ill client. Since our son has gone vegetarian on us, seafood is on his no go list, so as soon as he ran off for a sleepover on Saturday, Will & I headed downtown for an adult night out with the fishies!
The space is comfortable and simple with lots of nice décor touches and many curtained booths, but after a while we had to move due to cold air from an overhead vent. We settled in at a warmer spot where we could also see a lot more and enjoy the space. While the restaurant is co-owned my Chefs Robert Wiedmaier (of Marcel's fame) and Brian McBride (original chef at Blue Duck Tavern), the kitchen is under the supervision of Chef John Critchley (previously of Brine, Bourbon Steak & Urbana) whose resume indicates he is most worthy. we had met Chef John many times before and he came out to greet us as did Chef Brian and they cheerily headed around the dining room when spotting other regulars or friends. It did feel like family. Our server Eddie made several excellent suggestions as did the chef and we settled in with a bottle of Halcon Vineyards "Prado" Rhone Blend 2013 from mendocino, Ca suggested by GM Todd Salvadore who knew his wines and what goes well with the seafood. Creamy and rich, it was ideal with every bite we had all night. Top this off with my favorite sparkling water, Badoit, and you have me reined in.
My starter was the Japanese Sea Urchin with Edamame, Blue Crab Custard, Arctic Surf Clam & Galil Spice Oil (which I discovered online is indeed an Israeli product from the Galilee--Galil is Hebrew for Galilee). and the flavors burst all over the place with the creamy custard and pops of earthy urchin. I would call it a clod seafood stew of types with a custard base and it was indeed dreamy (see FB fotos). Will had the Grilled Fish Causa which I would describe as a variation of the Puerto Rican Mofongo, but here with a Yukon Gold Potato shell stuffed with a fish melange, Peruvian Pepper (getting ready for our trip in less than 3 weeks), Aleppo Pepper Oil & Flying Fish Row. Again flavors bursts here, which indeed was the signature of every dish all night: novel, exciting and flavorful.
Before our main course arrived, Eddie brought out some superb amuse-like treats:
Grilled Cuttlefish with Spaghetti Squash in Vegetable Broth with Thai Basil Vinaigrette was tender and tasty and was followed by
"Almond Cake" Duck Liver Mousse with Verjus Gelee which was a complex yet teeny two-bite foie gras treat.

We asked about bread and Eddie explained it comes just before the main course, and it did in the form of Soft Lavosh (more like a light pita) with a Tuna spreak topped with Red Pepper Puree. We had noticed the large oil containers on the table with spices and assumed it was for the bread and when one of the servers brought the spread, he quickly announced he would drizzle the star anise oil over it. OOPS! We smelled the intense licorice before we could stop him, so that went back to the kitchen and another oil-less plate emerged quickly. It was tasty and simple and filled a space, but I would have loved some real bread to mop up that stew broth at the end.
Main courses here shine just like everything else with Will's Poached Alaskan Halibut with Mishmish Spiced Octopus, Sobrasada(a type of chorizo adding flavor) Emulsion, Almond Milk and a divine Farro Grano Arso (which upon checking is a burnt grain apparently originating in Puglia; we must have missed this when there this past summer!). I may have found a new favorite seafood dish in the amazing Fisherman's Stew, which Chef John explained, has been evolving since the opening. I love it just the way it is with large pieces of crispy seared Royal Bass, Diver Scallops and Squid Ink Brittle which melts as the broth is poured on tableside. The two winning ingredients of the dish, however, are the three Middleneck Clams piled with Sea Urchin and topped with French Trout Roe which totally blew me away. I can't recall such an amazing combination of flavors. Beside these were Lobster & Shrimp Dumplings, which I can only describe as matzo-ball like in texture and floating in the seafood/fish broth. I had to save the last bite from one of these tiny treats.

A plate of Lamb Shoulder Cannelloni with Braised Leeks and Lamb Jus emerged as a postlude and while we had intended to try and keep this meal mostly meatless, we could not give in to the rich treat.

Desserts here should not be missed and while they sound large and complex, they are indeed not huge or too filling for each to have his or her own. Will went right for the Key Lime Cream with Passion fruit, Graham Cracker and Orange Blossom ice Cream which he loved save for the very soggy graham cracker which marred the dish. My Coffee Mousse & Gingerbread was a holiday treat with Hazelnut Sponge, Gingerbread Ice Cream and Crystalized Hazelnuts. I was totally happy and even happier when the macaroon, , Gelee and Dulce de leche cream mignardises arrived. 
Chef Robert Wiedmaier has been around DC for decades now and indeed has amassed a talented staff in his kitchens but also in front of house and Siren surely offers exemplary service and superior seafood. Siren is perfect for families (as it is in a hotel), romantic evenings, or just a night out, and as we were leaving the jazz combo was setting up, so that's also an option from 9pm (I believe on Friday & Saturday).
Check it out and enjoy!