Last night I was invited to RICHMOND STATION (1 Richmond St. West www.richmondstation.ca) just a couple of blocs from the
hotel and was surprised when we arrived that only a sign outside indicating
RESTAURANT showed the location! We entered into a small space with a bar and
numerous tables opposite which I thought was the whole place, but were then
escorted up a short flight of steps to an expansive upper level with one large
room facing the open kitchen as well as one smaller private dining space. It was
nice to be further away from the door (cold air!) and bar (more noise) in this
more intimate space where we were served by Mark as well as the manager Steve,
who suggested that the chef just cook for us as we could not decided on what to
eat. The menu is not huge, but it is very varied and we enjoyed every single
item that came out for what ended up being almost 4 hours!
The wine list offered many wines by the glass and we were immediately drawn
to the Ontario options and started with a bottle of Rosehill Run Chardonnay 2012
from Prince Edward County about 2 hours to the east where the wine business has
been steadily growing over the last decade! The Cuvee Richmond Station is
bottled for the restaurant has a crisp mineral taste and is mostly steel barrel
fermented that really hints back to the true French chardonnays and has nothing
to do with those oaky, vanilla-intense California ones of the same
varietal.
Soon enough we each received a small plate with a pairing (see photos on
FB) of a New Brunswick Village Bay Oyster on one side and a Beef Tartare on top
of a deep fried triangle of Pommes Kennedy topped with a Bloody Mary clamato
gel. The tartare was amazing even if the potato triangle was still just a bit
oily from the frying. I can't recall ever having a New Brunswick oyster (and I
know I have had many from both coasts of Canada which I love), but this mollusk
was indeed a plump morsel.
Next came two house specialties that blew us away (everything from here on
was served family style):
Pate en Croute made from Rabbit & Pork with a pork stock gelee and Leek
Mostarda which was truly a brilliant construction in beauty and even more
amazing in the mouth.
Duck Liver Pate(whipped) with Apple Mostarda on Brioche which was as rich
as could be, but truly an explosion of flavors in the mouth
On the side was a small salad of Arugula and Mushrooms with Pickled
Shallots.
Steve said that we needed to have the Charcuterie plate as everything is
made in house and indeed the restaurant practices whole animal butchery so that
nothing is wasted; a truly admirable goal for any establishment. After the Duck
Pate and Pate en Croute, how could we disagree! He then brought over a glass of
Coat-Albret Brut(hence no sweetness) Hard Cider from Normandie that was an
amazing pairing with all the varied meat options on the platter:
Culatello-a prosciutto like creation of inside pork round
Venison Piemontese-easily the best venison charcuterie I have ever had made
even richer with red wine!
Bresaola
Pork/Rabbit/Lamb Terrine made with Medjool Dates (need I say more?)
Grilled Lamb Sausage
Grilled Summer Beef & Pork Sausage
and finally House Cured Lardo whipped to perfection with black pepper,
Maldon Sea Salt & Rosemary.
Different mustards adorned the platter (the FB photo shows this amazing
work of art in the butchery department!)
Now everything was amazing but the venison stood out for it's novelty and
the terrine was truly terrific, but it was the unsuspecting Lardo that we all
went loco for.
Spread on a piece of bread it came off as an amazingly seasoned
tasty whipped "butter" with gusto that we simply could not resist!!
Steve joked that it was the perfect spread for your breakfast toast!
We continued with one of my favorite Canadian winemakers who has almost
become a cult up here and indeed Richmond Station does not advertise they have
the wines on the menu, but keep them for special guests! The Norman Hardie 2014
Prince Edward County Pinot Noir is a dreamy pinot that equals any from Oregon or
France with guts. Next year if we return to Toronto outside of the bleak
wintertime, I am surely going to try and plan a trip to Prince Edward
County!
Our next course was the Pan Roasted (deliciously crispy skinned) Euro
Bass served atop a Brassica Caesar Salad made of greens with Brussels sprouts,
white anchovy & Caesar dressing. While the fish itself was delicious, the
salad needed a bit more oomph and all I could have asked for would have been
some of those amazing anchovies from Italy, we just could not seem to find
them!
Three main courses arrived and we decided to tackle them each one by
one:
Rabbit Two Ways offered up a Leg & Croquette with Celeriac Puree, House
Cured Smoked Bacon and was the specific dish I had asked for and was rewarded
with a real winner as each bite had a different flavor and texture and really
showed off the kitchen's amazing technique for variety.
Fleishnacko is a rolled pasta stuffed with pork and I can only describe as
"pate en pasta"stuffed with pork cooked sous-vide and paired with Grilled Pork
Loin in Mushroom Gravy, Pork Stock, Cippolini Onions.
The Venison Tenderloin shined cooked just past rare and served with
potatoes, root veggies in a mushroom & red wine jus that was out of this
world; the meat melted in our mouths!
J.M. Sohler 2013 Pinot Gris from Alsace was a treat as well!
The though of dessert scared us so we suggested just one to share and the
Coconut Tart (very deconstructed-sorry no photo) with London Fog Cheese Cake,
Earl Grey Ice Cream and Seabuckthorne puree was loads of fun and a glass of
Tawse Niagara Ontarioa Riesling Ice Wine was simply the icing on the cake (or
tart if you prefer!)
I am sure I have to come back again next year and revisit Richmond Station
for sure as this was indeed one of Toronto's best dining experiences
ever!!
