I invited two dear friends/clients to dinner last night at James Beard
House for a truly unique experience as the Beard Foundation flew in a team from
Florence University of the Arts's TuttoTuscana team to promote local foods and
more. They were assisted by many students from both Italy and the culinary
schools in NY that team up with this University in Italy. This exchange has been
going on for 12 years with the foundation!
I came right from the Met Opera where the matinee was cut short by a white
powder scare and I happened to be seated in seat L2 which was right in back of
seat K4 which had a plaque that is was donated by James A Beard!
We arrived and walked through the small kitchen which was more cramped than
I have ever seen it with dozens of chefs (FB foto) and trays laden with the
hor's d'oevres:
Tuscan Carabaccia soup with red onion, cinnamon and almonds was a
revelation in a shot glass
Deep fried Cresepelle Nests with Parmegiano Reggiano were sugar dusted as
well and a bit too sweet for my palate at the start of a meal.
White bean and pecorino frittata were superb and flavorful
Ricotta stuffed with smoked leeks and dehydrated Prosciutto was a truly
decadent and rich cream-like soup with luscious leeks and a crunch from the
prosciutto chip.
The novel Cinque e Cinque with Shrimp tartare comes from a Tuscan tradition
of "5&5" meaning that the street food from Livorno on the coast was made
from 5 lire worth of chickpea and 5 lira worth of schiacciata bread, here topped
with shrimp tartare and these tiny treats were indeed irresistible!
Two wines were poured with these:
an unexciting but nice Vermentino di Sardegna DOC 2015 from Olianas and a
superb
Macari Vineyards 2015 Sauvignon Blanc from Long Island's North Fork (their
son attended the school in Florence!) that was an excellent wine full of flavor
and a perfect pairing to boot.
We sat down to dinner and started with some superb breads and breadstickts
with a trul superb Azienda Agricola Pruneti extra virgin olive oil that was also
used in the Antipasto entitled "Pitti Palace":
"Boboli Garden" Renaissance style sald of mixed field greens, pecorino,
caper(berries), anchovies, sultana raisins, walnuts, olives and EVOO foam with
citrus-tomato drops (fotos on FB of all courses) which was not only gorgeous to
look at it was truly one of the most exciting salads I have ever had. The wine
was an ever so smooth Barco Reali di Carmignado DOC 2014 Capezzana made from 70%
Sangiovese, 15% Cab and other wines.
Primo I was called "Castello del Trebbio, Scapera e San Piero" after a
fortress-like castle built by the Medici outside of Florence and was a Ricotta
& Black Cabbage Gnudi on a light Corazon & Paterno pecorino, garlic
& sage sauce that was simply divine, The wine was called Lastricato from
Chianti Rufina Reserva DOCG 2011, Castello del Trebbio and was another super
smooth fine 100% Sangiovese.
Primo II was called "Villa di Cafaggiolo, Barberino di Mugello" for another
medieval villa in Mugello and was a Rustic Borlotti Bean, Farro and Mushroom
Soup made from Oyster mushrooms and chanterelles! The wine again was the same
superlative Lastricato.
Our Secondo or main was Anatra all'arancia, a duck dish with breast, foie
gras, celeriac, chesnuts, honey, Brussels sprouts leaves and candied orange zest
with drops of Traditional Balsamic Vinegar of Modena DOP "extra vecchio"(25
years aged) from Acetaia Malpighi which looked superb, but my duck was a bit
overcooked and dryish (they were not all this way). A 20%cab, 80% Sangiovese
Villa di Capezzana Carmignan DOCG 2010 from Capezzana was again simply smooth
and beautiful.
Our pre-dessert was called "Camugliano (Pisa)" for another Medici villa and
was a Honey rosemary mousse with pine nut crumble in lingue di gatto shell,
which literally means "cat's tongue" but is a simple almond tuille.
Next came Dolce II called "Seravezza (Lucca)" fir a palace perched in the
Apuan Alps and was a contemporary Sponge Cake with Orange sauce and nuts. The
amazing Vin Santo del Chianti DOC209 was from Castello del Trebbio.
Of course biscotti di Prato and petit fours (called ovis mollis,
ancioni & ricciarelli) arrived with more Vin Santo....
We waddled home very happy.