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My last meal in NY was just across from my hotel on the Lower East Side at
Hecho en Dumbo (www.hechoendumbo.com) where the food marries traditional
Mexican cuisine awesome ingredients that give it a totally modern take.
The place is simple and small with a bar up front and just over a dozen or
so tables of 2 or 4. There are exposed brick walls, and while the tables have
candles, the lighting levels are a bit low for menu reading; many folks were
using their smartphones to read them. Paper napkins could be replaced by
something cloth as the food often requires using your hands and the tacos are
stuffed full, so can be messy, There are no formalities here, just great cooking
in a modern take.
From 5-7pm there is a Happy Hour and I was eating early to head to the
opera, so I tried the classic Margarita (all of them run $12-15 apiece) which
during this time (even at the tables) are all $7 each; a steal. There is a small
plate menu for happy hour as well and I tried the Tostada de Atun which is on
special for $3 apiece. It was a crispy yellow torn tortilla topped with Tuna
Sashimi, Spicy Aioli which has a nice lingering of spice in the mouth and Crisp
Fried Leeks.
I saw two starters on the main menu and asked if they were large. The
server/manager/boss(?) said they were not huge, so I said that I would try and
could always order more afterwards.
Three salsas had arrived in the form of pico de gallo, a traditional red
tomato that was not too spicy and a super spicy habanero tomatillo.
My first appetizer dish was the Pulpo ala Plancha which was a superb
Roasted Spanish Octopus over a Garlic Anchovy and Oregano Mojo with a yummy side
of Grilled Housemade Queso fresco topped with some crunchy toasted bread crumbs.
It's a great pair.
Next came the Tacos de Tuetano, surely the most modern take on the dish
with a small basket of yummy mini corn tortillas and ahuge plate of two huge
roasted Bone Marrows and Beef Tongue with the most divine Morita Salsa on the
side and a pile of tasty Caramelized Onions. It was amazing and so much fun to
put the tacos together.
I was still a bit hungry so I ordered three small tacos from the taco menu
and the server said I could mix them up if I wishes. GREAT!
Taco de Alcalde was filled with smoked Sable, Braised Octopus, Gulf Shrimp,
Red & Yellow Pepper, Tomato, Red Onion and melted Chihuahua Cheese (I hope
it wasn't made from a dog :-)))....The smokiness of the dish was amazing.
Second was Salbutes de Chochinita Pibil or Berkshire Pork with Yucatan
Spice steamed in Banana Leaf over Sour Orange Juice with flash-fried yellow corn
tortilla, bean puree and pickled red onion. I didn't get the orange flavor, but
the tiny taco was a dream.
Last was the Taco Campechano with finely chopped cecina(salt-cured steak),
chorizo, house made chicharron (pork rind) and chile de arbol and topped with
chicharron salsa.
Sorry to be quick, but I gotta head home and the snow is making it
hard!
All were great and I left very happy.....
