Last night I skipped down to Alexandria where we had an awesome meal at BRABO (www.braborestaurant.com)
about a year ago. I am so glad I got the email about their Virginia
wine dinner as this was indeed a special event and I was thrilled I
signed up. On arrival we were ushered into the intimate lobby of the
Lorien Hotel (where Brabo is located) as they had set us up for about 35
people or so in a private dining area there.
We were served
THIBAUT-JANISSON "Xtra Brut" Blanc de Chardonnay which I had tasted
before, but forgot how impressed I was with this awesome sparkling wine
which is probably the best in the entire state. Winemaker & Co-Owner
Claude Thibaut was circling around the room and we had the chance to
chat with him about this terrific wine.
Soon we were ushered
into the dining room and I was seated next to Jason Tesauro who is the
Chief Sommelier & National Brand Director for one of my favorite
wineries, Barboursville. Jason was a replacement at the last minute for
the venerable Luca Paschina, who has been making spectacular wines for
decades in Virginia, and in Italy prior to that. We've know Luca for a
long time, and while I was sorry he was not there, I found Jason to be
so lively and ebullient that I was thrilled to meet and sit with him. We
drank more of the Xtra Brut as the amuse bouche of SMOKED TROUT PANNA
COTTA, Verjus Mirroire & Trout Roe arrived. While this treasure was
indeed amuse size, I could have eaten a dozen; I just wanted more, but I
knew many courses were to follow and satiate....so I restrained. The
creamy panna cotta had many folks thinking this was going to be sweet,
but I was not fooled, and the flavor burst from the cream and roe was
divine.
The first course was a RABBIT BALLONTINE,
Roasted KURI SQUASH, Asian PEAR & Pepitas which wowed everyone. The
encased rabbit fillet was tender and delicate and the wine was so
restrained it was an ideal pairing. Jason introduced the Barboursville
Vineyard "Reserve" Vermentino 2013 and joked that the room was
denser with sommeliers then a Vegas dining spot. Indeed, since Brabo is
owned by Chef Robert Wiedmaier, his chief sommelier, Ramon, from
Marcel's in DC was heading up the staff who meticulously cared for all
our wine needs. The bright white wine was dry yet full of tropical
flavors in the first pour, which did get lost in the colder temperature
refill (but I warmed it up quickly with my hands and was very happy
again).
The second course was a Stuffed VIRGINIA
QUAIL Breast, CHANTERELLE Mushrooms, Grilled PEARL ONIONS & BACON
JUS. Simply said, I chewed every bit of meat off the tiny leg and left
not a dribble of sauce on my plate. We joked about asking for bread to
insure there was no sauce left, but then remembered more was coming and
wanted to avoid those filling carbs! Rachel Martin of Boxwood Estate
Winery in Middleburg introduced her "TOPIARY" 2011 as a blend of 68% Cab
Franc and 32% Merlot which was a ready to drink now red that I could
enjoy with our without food. She explained that the blending percentages
vary by year and that while Boxwood is known for reds, they will be
unveiling their first white very soon. I was not familiar with Boxwood,
other than by name, and am so happy we have another fantastic winery to
visit so close to DC.
Third was a FOIE GRAS
GATEAUX with Sauce Bordelaise which was Hudson Valley Foie gras enrobed
in Chicken Mousseline. Need I say more? The wine was RdV "Rendevous"
2009 which was the only winery without representation. I had RdV's
extremely high priced wines at a dinner over a year ago (also in
Alexandria at Eve) and while I gave in and purchased 3 bottles of this
same wine at $100 each(!!!), I reminded myself that it really needs a
while in the bottle as it is a huge Bordeaux style blend of Merlot, Cab
Franc & Petite Verdot. I felt this was a bit too overpowering for
the foie gras, but many folks felt it was a great pairing; wine is so
personal!
Next was a Juniper Dusted VENISON LOIN
accompanied by Smoked CHESTNUT PUREE, Swiss CHARD, Glazed BABY BEETS
& Red Wine Jus. I knew winter had arrived and anything with venison
or chestnuts wins me over in two seconds flat. This dish was no
different. The meat was perfectly seared just past rare and oh so
tender; the puree enveloping and the veggies divine. The Barboursville
Vineyard Cabernet Franc 2012 is my first time with this particular
vintage and it has always been my favorite Cab Franc on this side of the
earth, perhaps indeed anywhere. This vintage is great and I'll have to
make sure we get some in the future, when there is space in the cellar
:-)).
Dessert from pastry chef Erin Reed showed
her prowess with a Caramelized BITTERSWEET CHOCOLATE CUSTARD, Jivara
LEMON CREAM, HAZELNUT BRITTLE & Frangelico Pearls that was not only
delicious, but gorgeous to look at. THIBAUT-JANISSON Blanc de Chardonnay
was served, and while I do like champagne, I would have loved a nice
sweet dessert wine.
As we finished up Chef Harper McClure who
is the chef de cuisine at Brabo emerged along with DC uber-chef Robert
Weidmaier to massive bravos, applause and cheers. They deserved much
praise for the fine work, dedication and attention they gave to this
truly special dinner and event. BRAVOS to BRABO!
