Last Friday evening I headed over to SW DC and the
ballroom at the Mandarin Oriental where The James Beard Foundation
brought Taste America, it's fundraiser on wheels, so to speak.
We
had a 90 minute cocktail party with the best food of the night prepared
by awesome local chefs, followed by a four course sit down dinner with
paired wines.
I made my way down the cocktail area first
trying the fun sparkling rose from Lucien Albrecht which went so well
with many of the options at each chef's table. I then moved on to a
wonderful Jordan 2011 Chardonnay (there was also a Provenance 2011
Sauvignon Blanc). The reds were even better with a divine Newton Claret
2011 and an awesome Grgich Hills 2007 Merlot. Lots of love went into
these choices. Bacardi had sponsored the beverages and there were three
quite sweet mixed drinks using their rum which I avoided.
I
first came upon Marjorie Meeks-Bradley of Ripple (where we had just
eaten a couple of weeks before) & Roofer's Union who was assembling
CARROT CAVATELLI with Lobster & Chanterelles that was so good I went
back for seconds and thirds!
Next to her was one of
Washington's newest faces, Chef Ed Scarpone of DBGB Kitchen, Daniel
Boulud's first DC spot which is apparently so hot, reservations for
months ahead are virtually impossible. He was serving a Truffled BOUDIN
BLANC with Pomme Puree, Apples & Pork Jus, which was nice, but my
least favorite item of the five chefs present. I guess I won't have to
worry about getting a table there, as I would choose the others first!
Chef
Jeffrey Buben of Vidalia was there and the only James Beard winner of
these five as well. It was obvious as he had a luscious creamy and
divine Low Country SHE CRAB Soup (really bisque) with the most adorable
and tasty Old Bay Marshmallows (although the menu said it was a Deviled
Crab Benne Seed Cracker--nope!). Fourth was Chef Katsuya Fukushima of
Daikaya, who I think is one of the most fun chefs in a DC kitchen. We
had such a ball at his place a while ago that it made me want to return
to his big smile and great demeanor. He had a wonderful dish of Buttered
BREAD(really black bread toasted) with Fire Kissed UNI, Aged Ponzu and
Jalapeno. He was torching the uni just a tad and delicately layering it
on each piece of tiny bread with the ponzu and jalapeno slice (the menu
said it was a Japanese Hot Pepper, but it was not). I must have had six
or seven of these awesomely tasty tidbits. Finally was Chef Anthony
Chittum of Iron Gate, where we also went for the first time last month.
He prepared Melted CABBAGE Tortelloni, Surryano Ham & Red Onion
Marmalade. which was super with the little piece of Virginia made
crisped ham (a la Serrano) and the tasty pasta and sauce. I am glad I
had multiples of all but one dish(the boudin), as the dinner was much
less impressive than these superb creations.
There
was a silent and live auction and I went home with two fun silent
packages for dining out as well; I could not resist buying dinner with
Chef Marjorie at Ripple!
I had a fun group at my
table and we all talked about all the great dishes as the wine was
poured. Our wine server had two bottles of the first wine, a Trimbach
Rielsing from Alsace, but one was 2010 and one was 2011. I asked him to
pour both (he did not realize they were different vintages) and
immediately fell in love with the 2010 as it was much fuller than the
fruity 2011. James Beard Winner CHARLES PHAN of The Slanted Door in San
Francisco was flown in for the event and presented us with Banh Boc Lot
PORK & SHRIMP TAPIOCA DUMPLINGS in Banana Leaves which was quite
nice, but nothing more special than a really good dumpling (and while
plural, there was just one on each plate). The wine was perfect with it
and I would have had more, but the meal moved along steadily to the
second course cooked by DC's own VIKRAM SUNDERAM where his work at
Ripple has won him his James Beard Award (well, no surprise there!). His
Baked BLACK COD was Marinated with Honey, Chili, Dill, Star Anise,
Cream & Cheese and was the winning dish at the table for sure. The
anise was barely evident (which made me happy) and the cheese was a
crispy piece of Parmesan atop the dish like a little hat.
Seguinot-Bordet Chablis was the paired Chardonnay and another superb
wine.
For the main course Chef Phan was brought back with a
Braised DUCK LEG, Shitake Mushrooms, Bamboo Shoots & Chinese Dates
which again was okay, but not a bowlover, especially since the duck was
slightly dry (always a problem with hundreds of people at a large
event). The wine was an amazing Grenache/Syrah Gigondas from Gonnet in
the Rhone. I kept drinking this for the remainder of the night as I did
not really take to the 2007 McKinley Springs Late Harvest Chenin Blanc
from Horse Haven Hills in Washington State that was served with dessert.
Chef Didier Pouzier of the Mandarin Oriental in DC was allowed to
prepare dessert on his own turf and gave us a refreshing Coconut
Tapioca, Cucumber Meringue, Fresh Pineapple & Coconut Sorbet that
sent us home feeling quite good as it was not heavy or overpowering at
all after some of the very rich dishes that preceded.
I always have fun when I go to the James Beard House in NY and attend their events here in DC. I anxiously await the next one!
