Yes we were bad on our diet last night, but then a rare indulgence seems to allow the diet to reinforce :-))
We
had planned to go to BRABO by Robert Wiedmaier for years and just never
got there. I forced myself to make a visit to the adorable LORIEN Hotel
in Alexandria
which houses the restaurant allowing me to do a site visit of their accommodations and then take in dinner at BRBAO (www.braborestaurant.com) right on King Street
just blocks from the Metro. They also have complimentary valet parking for diners, something you don't find too much any more!
We
knew Chef Harper McLure had left the Federalist last year shortly after
our visit to move to Marcel's, but we were thrilled to see that Chef
Wiedmaier trusts him enough to let him helm this superb fine dining
establishment. He is joined by Pastry Chef Jennifer Short and Sommelier
Matthew Carroll with a wonderful team including our server Greg.
Another bonus here is the unlimited pours of bottled water from the Vivero system (either flat or fizzy) at $2.00 per person.
We
perused the drink menu and Will chose a Gin Gimlet (they specialize in
gin cocktails) made with Bluecoat Gin, fresh lime and simple syrup. My
TOMMY's MARGARITA (named for
the one of San Francisco fame, we
were told) was heavy on the ice and not very big, but tasty with
Herraduro Blanco Tequila, Lime & Agave Syrup.
The
bread was fine, but we avoided it for the most part and the butter
seemed to be covered with salt, which was the only problem we
encountered all night!
After much procrastination we agreed on
the tasting menu of seven (plus) courses at $70 each with wine pairings
for an extra $50, which at $120 each is a real deal these days.
Will was craving the GRILLED SPANISH OCTOPUS, so we had Chef Harper squeeze in a small plate of that along the way.
All
of the items on the tasting menu are new for Brabo from Chef Harper's
cookbook and the entire menu will be overhauled this Saturday night.
First
came a GAZPACHO CONSOMME that I could have eaten for days and taken
home gallons of. A clear tomato consommé bursting with flavor and
chilled perfectly for a 90 degree day was
garnished with
Confit Cherry Tomato, a tiny square of CUCUCMBER PANNA COTTA with a
slice of Boquerón ANCHOVY atop, a flowering mini cucumber and Espalette
Pepper for spice.
The pairing was ingenious as tomato acidity
is so hard to do: STEININGER GRUNER VELTLINER SEKT 2010 from Kamptal,
Austria was a sparkling version of the great fine Austrian white wine
that we drink so much of all summer.
GRILLED
JUDITH POINT CALAMARI was on the menu at the Federalist and reappears
here with a Roasted GARLIC PUREE, CIPOLLINI ONION and a HARISSA AIOLI
that shows Chef Harper
is not afraid of using intense spices.
The onion was topped with an edible nasturcium flower petal and Red
Mustard Greens adorned the dish which was as tender as squid can get.
ABAZZIA
di NOVACELLA from Alto Adige 2010 in Italy is a Sylvaner Grape that has
an unripe honeydew flavor and again paired wonderfully. With each bite,
the wine changed and Will got more creaminess,
while I got citrus and acidity!
Here
we veered to the GRILLED SPANISH OCOTPUS with Fingerling Potatoes,
Piquillo Peppers, Olive Oil & Balsamic Glaze which was the dish with
the most spice all evening, yet treated the tender octopus with great
respect. Our server Greg, brilliantly if I may say so, suggested we
split a glass of the BURGANS ALBARINO 2011 from Spain that was just
right to fight the spice. I could not help remarking that I had
discovered that Chef Harper did not have a fear of spice, despite the
fact that his cooking style is so traditional, yet so wonderfully
American and novel.
SEARED DIVER SCALLOP brought
us back to the tasting menu served with a light Sweet CORN RISOTTO with
Mascarpone and Lemon Butter. This was the dish we feared the most for on
our diet, but it
was handled with care and perhaps Chef
Harper lightened it a bit for us with consideration. No matter, the
flavors were simply superb and the MESTRE-MICHELOT, Domeain de Montmeix,
2009 Chardonnay
from Burgundy was a treat. The top of the
scallop was cooked just to a super crisp and the inside was just right
and Red Vein Sorrel graced the dish.
LA BELLE
FARMS SQUAB came just past rare with a Roasted Breast touched lovingly
with Maldon Sea Salt, moist & luscious yet crispy confit leg, Pearl
Barley, Epazote & Cherry-Rhubarb Jus that was not sweet at all. The
wine was a virgin treat for
us as it was our first one from
SERBIA: FRANCUSKA VINARIJA 2009 "Obecanje" is from Rodljevo and is made
from Grenache but has a soft and smooth in the mouth finish like a good
Burgundy Pinot Noir.
The last meat course was ECO
FRIENDLY FOODS PORK LOIN served with a Summer Cassoulet, Chanterelle
Mushroom & Pork Jus. The Michele Laluce "Zimberno" AGLIANICO from
Basilicata, Puglia 2007
was not a typically spicy (like Zinfandel) Aglianico and we liked it a lot.
The
cheese course was BURRATA with Balsamic Glaze and garlic Croutons which
comes from Murgella also in Puglia and was creamy rich and everything
burrata needs to be.
RASPBERRY SOUP with Mint
Sorbet & Crème Bavarois is the perfect light and refreshing dessert
after a meal like this that lasted 3 hours. Genius was at work as I
normally do not like mint, and it was simply sublime here.
Elio
Perrone "Bigaro", a sparkling BRACHETTO/MOSCATO 2012 from Piemonte is
also as refreshing as it gets. Lots of love went into thinking how to do
a large yet not overindulgent tasting menu in the heat of a DC summer.
We
were treated to Chocolate Caramel Squares Walnut Cherry Brownie, Pate
de Fruit, and an unexciting Lemon Spritz Cookie before heading home
praying that the scales did not explode today (and we each only gained
ONE POUND!)
Back on the diet! HAPPY FOURTH OF JULY!
