At the opera matinee yesterday I was surprised to bump into a dear
client whom I had forgotten I booked into St. Louis this weekend. So I
quickly invited him to join me between the operas for dinner at Gerard
Craft's recently opened French bistro just blocks from my hotel.
BRASSERIE by NICHE (www.brasseriebyniche.com) is a casual indoor and
outdoor bistro with plaid linen tablecloths covered by that ubiquitous
brown paper. Large French posters adorn the walls and the space is
cozy and not too crowded. By the time we left at 7:15pm, there was not
an empty table indoors (it was still over 90 outside and had just
rained).
Our server Meredith raved about the CHICKEN LIVER TERRINE with Red
Onion Confiture, so we indulged and ordered this an a spare starter
along with our other two. It was rich, creamy and divine and the
confiture gave a great tart foil. Only five small toasted baguette
croutons came with it, so we used the warm pull-apart French loaves at
the table as well which was just as good.
I had a glass of Laporte "Le Bouquet" 2008 Sauvignon Blanc from the
Loire (the wines are mostly French and there is a large beer menu as
well) which was a very traditional steely tasty French version of the
varietal. My second wine was an also steely (read:not oaky) Domaine
Cordier Chardonnay 2008 from Macon-Charnay in Burgundy. My guest had
the SANTA DUC "Vielles Vignes" 2007 Cotes du Rhone we he said was also
quite good.
His starter was the Wild Burgundy ESCARGOTS served in a 1/2 dozen
ceramic container and loaded with a very herby butter with garlic
which was almost green from the herbs. It was nice to have the herbs
overpower the garlic for a change. My BRANDADE of House Salted Cod was
served in a ramekin with Arugula on top again with the small toasted
baguette slices and was not the rich bacalao with loads of creamy
stuff, but a tasty largely fish brandade in the very old traditional
way.
For main courses both dishes were dreamy with my guest opting for the
Braised BEEF SHORT RIBS with carrots and potato puree and my TROUT &
ALMONDS with GREEN BEANS offering up a whole boned trout without tail
or head that was completely edible and had no one sliver of bone. The
ligh butter sauce and almonds were of the highest quality adding to
the excellence of this dish.
Dessert was a treat as well, and how nice after the awful one the
evening before. BLUEBERRY CLAFOUTIS was a tasty version of the fruit
cobbler and a huge scoop of creamy homemade LEMON VERBENA Ice Cream
was ladled on top. My guest opted for a scoop of the same along with
the Honey-Lavender Ice Cream as well!
What a divine meal as my last big dinner here in St. Louis as tonight
I picnic before the opera.
