That same night we left Samuel with a babysitter in the hotel and headed to Boston's North End just blocks away, the heart of New England's Italian kitchens. While TARANTA has been open for years under the guidance of Chef Jose Duarte (www.tarantarist.com), it is only in the past several years that the cuisine has fused with that of Duarte's native Peru and oh so much for the better.
We were very discouraged at first as we entered the noisy three level crowded house, but managed to get a well separated table on the second floor, just around the corner from the appetizer kitchen (entrees and bar are on the first floor). The unexciting decor is mostly exposed brick with a hanging item here or there and some mirrors; you come here for the food for sure, not the decor or ambience.
I was impressed to note that the menu is made of recycled coffee paper and all the wines are organic and biodynamic, as is the food. This place is indeed a sustainable vision of what restaurants (and we) can be. The water is purified in-house and goes for $7 a bottle (a bit high--I think, of which $1 is donated to sustainable recycling.
Everything is indeed recycled here if it can be and they even have a compost!
We started with a bottle of VERMENTINO 2008 from ARGIOLAS "Costamolino" in Sardinia which was great with our quite spicy food. Chef Duarte uses many native chilies and does not skimp on them. The starter of CAUSA de CANGREJO was a cold crab, yellow Peruvian potatoes, egg, avocado, Botija Olives (Peruvian), Aji Amarillo (yellow Peruvian chili pepper) and RICOTO (a very spicy red pepper). It was a divine mixture and the red and yellow sauces were surrounding the cylinder or crab so that you could use more or less if you liked the spice. Our second starter was the COCCIO di PESCE e LEGUMI which was a stew of Baby Octopus, Cuttlefish, Calms, Chickpeas all in a divine spicy Tomato Sauce. I mentioned to our server Sarah, who after we settled in was a gem, that the "spicy" tomato sauce was less "spicy" than the pepper sauces on the not listed as "spicy" crab dish! She said I had a point.
We moved on to a yummy red CARMENERE Blend 2004 from San Lorenzo Estate "Chono" in Maipo, Chile which was actually 41% Syrah/44% Carmenere/15% Cab) and was a dream drink with our main courses. GNOCCHI di YUCA al RAGU VERDE STILE Secco Peruviano was a Casava Root Gnocchi, slow braised lamb with fermented corn liquor called "Chica de Jora" and cilantro resulting in the "verde" or greenish color of the ragu of lamb which also had an amazing lingering pepper flavor at the back of the mouth after each bite that was not "spicy" but just impressive.
COSTOLETTA di MAIALE con Canna di Zucchero e Rocoto used the spicy red Rocoto Pepper again but here with a Brined (huge) double cut Pork Chop with a sugar cane-Rocoto glaze that was oh so tasty. On the side was a YUCCA PIATELLA (cake) and a saute of Giant Peruvian CORN with Spinach & Caramelized Onion.
Sarah said the desserts were no made in house, but if we had to try one, the GUAVANOLI's would be choice. The perfect Italian-Peruvian fusion of Cannoli with Guava. It was served with Pistachio brittle and the whole thing was very untasty, so Will ordered a Limoncello and I had the house made PERUVIAN PISCO SOUR which in my mind was a pairing of Peruvian-Italian that worked better!
But what a fun night once we settled in and began to enjoy all the exciting tastes and flavors of this novel cuisine.
