Friday, June 19, 2009

St Louis' NICHE has never been better and rates #1 for hundreds of miles around

I returned to St. Louis for a weekend at the opera festival here, but had to add a night to dine at Niche (www.nichestlouis.com) where I first dined just a year ago at award winning Chef Gerard Craft's superb establishment located just south of downtown St. Louis. I had waited too long, but fell in love with every dish as soon as I took each bite. I reiterate again, there are no chefs in this city and indeed, this state that touch Chef Craft's work. Save for Chicago, perhaps not even anywhere between the two coasts! I put myself in his hands and he offered up his regular tasting menu (which changes nightly) for $65 with the wine pairings for $35. He did however, graciously, add many extra courses...so below I have starred those on the tasting menu, even though the other dishes are available a la carte.

Furthermore, I had the pleasure of sitting between a sweet couple on my left (he turned out to be a VP of Enterprise Rent A Car) and one of my all time favorite (now retired, but still teaching) coloratura sopranos Erie Mills, at the table to my right!

Just as I was sitting down, Chef Craft ran in the door and came over asking if I had started yet. I said I had just ordered some water and he apologized as he had been working at the St.Louis' Zoofari charity event, a black tie affair in 94 degree heat (which had a heat factor of 103!). Back home, no chefs would do a charity event on a weekend...but I guess St. Louis is different. Anyway, he slid into his position at the window to the kitchen and oversaw everything else that came out for the next 4+ hours that I was there!

Kudos as well to all the kind staff and especially my server Scooter, who took the time to explain each dish intricately and made sure that all those dining around me got exactly what they want with no problems each time someone requested something special!

My first dish was the HAMACHI CRUDO with Baby TOMATOES in an Herb Vinaigrette, Housemade CHIPS in SOY POWDER and Baby PURPLE BASIL that had an intense and flavorful burst. The fish was superb, the chips were so divine, I said the should package them (they gave me a small box hours later to take home some!).

*(this is the symbol to indicate tasting menu dish) Second was a CAULIFLOWER "SOUP" which was another treat coming via the whipped cream dispenser but using the creamy cauliflower soup. It becomes frothy, but not thin or weak like many of those "foam" dishes we see these days. The soup had small slices of cauliflower, a breaded soft-center deep fried QUAIL EGG floating in it and a slice of house cured GUANCIALE, simply the most perfect piece of bacon I have ever had (from the cheek). A swath of SHERRY Vinegar reduction exited the bowl on one side and some rosemary oil was added for flavor. These two courses were paired with a flavorful TERRE di GIURFO "Siliccenti" INSOLIA 2007 that I sadly never got more information about as it was quite tasty.

I requested a taste of the OCTOPUS SALAD which really was an ARUGULA Salad with small tender pieces of octopus, basil, pine nuts and large fingerling potatoes in a RAMP Vinaigrette. It was light and would indeed be a perfect summer starter for any meal. This came with an EMMOLO SAUVIGNON BLANC from Napa made by the ex-wife of the famous Caymus winery using Caymus' grapes

*Seared ESCOLAR is a huge plate of tasty fleshy fish just barely cooked and slightly warm served with SUMMER BAY SQUASH (green & yellow) as well as SQUASH BLOSSOMS and the crunchiest of PUFFED RICE over a puree of BLACK GARLIC, another perfectly created and served dish that works so brilliantly in this intense heat we have here. A CHARLES & CHARLES ROSE 2008 from Washington State was a nother ideal pairing made from 100% Syrah.

A huge SEA SCALLOP arrived veer CAULIFLOWER Puree again with the GUANCIALE, Romanesco Broccoli, Marvelous MORELS a stripe of Rhubarb puree and Micro Fennel. A perfect dish available as a main course or split as the couple next to me decided to do! Paired with a divine DAVID NOYES 2006 SONOMA PINOT NOIR, I was now in ultimate heaven (well, I had been all evening).

*Greenwood Farms BERKSHIRE PORK BELLY could be the best version of this meat I have ever had with very little fat after being smoked for 24 hours and yielding a yummy crunchy crusted top, it is served over PEA Puree with Toasted MACADAMIA Nuts. On the side was a small bunch of PEA SHOOTS with a White Chocolate Vinaigrette. Last year Chef Craft used the white chocolate on a couple of dishes and here it was again just right...not sweet, or cloyingly so, just a right touch and in the dressing with vinegar, a brilliant creation. DOMAINE GALEVAN Cotes du RHONE 2006 had a plumminess that was just perfect with the tender soft smoked pork.

I couldn't believe an extra dish arrived at this point, but it was a pasta creation that was again as novel as everything else that comes from the kitchen. FAGGATINI--small wonton-shaped pasta purses were filled with Tete de cochon (pig's head) and served in a tasty Pork DASHI Broth with pork cracklings for crunch and texture. OH WOW! The Pinot Noir stayed on as it is so great with pork.

*Strawberry-Lime Sorbet was the palate cleanser as I waited a while for my "big" meat dish to arrive. I did ask several times to slow the meal down, and Scooter got the pacing just right.

*Fruitland Farm Pasture Raised RIBEYE CAP comes from Missouri and does the state proud. The slices of steak were as tender as it gets and served on a huge plate gorgeously designed and laid out with WATERCRESS-POTATO Puree, Red Wine Ver Jus, cubes of Muscat Gelee and Pearl Onions. The BELL CLARET 2006 from Napa is 75%Cabernet, 8% Syrah and a blend of Petit Verdot, Cab Franc and the unexpectedly from Napa Malbec was a perfect pairing for the flavorful meat that I savored slowly so as not to overload. I was indeed getting full, but knew that only one small dessert was to follow and it was now after 11pm, so I could easily enjoy every bite.

*Crumble topped RHUBARB BROWN BETTY was a perfect finale and just about 5-6 bites so as not to overkill. Served with RICOTTA LEMON-THYME GELATO which deserves an award in itself and paired with a superb slightly acidic LE TERTRE du LYS d'OR 2005 Rhone Dessert wine akin to Coteau du Layon which married the rhubarb and lemon surprisingly well.

I chatted with everyone for a while, said goodbyes, and sadly departed, but with a cheese course to eat for my breakfast today which I just finished. WOW again. PETIT BASQUE, PRARIE BREEZE Cheddar and a slightly stinky but firm WINNIMERE came with a Rhubarb Compote and salty crostini which I actually would never use, but loved for breakfast! So I got one more last day's taste of NICHE which I know I will return to again and again.