Monday, February 25, 2008

The SOURCE-soaring prices, no pretenses, noisy, but satisfying

I had heard so much about THE SOURCE (www.wolfgangpuck.com) which opened last year in the new Newseum at 6th St, NW off Penna (address is 575 Penna Ave, NW, but the entrance is on 6th). Not being a fan of Mr. Puck and his see and be seen places and awful airport pizza, I had severe trepidations about this spot as well. Over several months, I have heard many raves and Mr. Sietsema gave it 2-1/2 stars, perhaps just because it has some very good food. While the food is good, and Mr. Sietsema raved about his reception, the four of us sat at the table for over 10 minutes before we had to get up and ask a server if we could perhaps get some attention (menus, ordering, etc-you know, those things one expects when paying over $100 each for dinner!).

I was immediately turned off by the extremely high noise levels in the entire place (the main floor bar and "pizza" place, as well as the second floor dining room where we were), and the woman cackling at super-high decibels at the next table didn't help. The moving settees for two are a bit awkward, but not uncomfortable, and the decor is decent, although not inspiring, with a huge glass walled in wine cellar and some modern globe-like light fixtures.

We persevered and our server was extremely nice once she did arrive. The food tends to spicy, and this starts with a complimentary bowl of SZECHUAN GREEN BEANS and CANDIED WALNUTS which are addictive. The only problem was that when our wine arrived, my palate was shot from the chilis.

I had ordered a pricey (well, not really pricey on THIS wine list; as there are only about 3 wines under $30, and about the same number between $30-40--so expect to fork out between $50-80 to start, unless you want cheap stuff) PINOT NOIR 2005 from St INNOCENT "Seven Springs" which was decent, but not impressive. I have always loved St Innocent, but perhaps the spice had numbed my palate; perhaps the server should have steered us to a bigger wine or a Zinfandel based on the food style. I was beginning to feel The SOURCE was decent, but not impressive overall (except for the String Beans!). Before the wine was served I asked our server for a piece of bread or cracker to "get back my palate," but they had to "order" the bread and it never came anyway. What was that all about?

The appetizers were indeed hits from my "TINY DUMPLINGS" of Pork Belly in a sauce of Black Vinegar, mild Chili Oil, Ginger & Cilantro. They were quite tasty, and the portion size was decent; a step above any Chinese dumpling I have had for sure. Another hit was the Tandoori ARCTIC CHAR with Pickled Cucumber, Tomato Chutney & Cardamom Raita - again a huge portion for an appetizer. The Warm LOBSTER-DAIKON Roll came in at over $20, but when requested in vegetarian form, the price dropped to a semi-decent $12, and the CRISPY SUCKLING PICK with Black Plum Puree, Pickled Cipollini and Sweat Beans was another star.

Two of the entrees were huge: a decent Vegetarian Platter (it had to be requested as there were no veggie items on the menu) and our stupendous LACQUERED CHINESE DUCKLING with Wild Huckleberries, Pea Tendrils and CHOW FUN. This came in a monstrous bowl (of awful design as the utensils kept sliding in and getting sticky!) with almost what seemed to be an entire duck with the most delightful and crispiest of skins. The Chow Fun came separately and was a concoction of pappardelle-like pasta ribbons, bok choy and some chilis as well for a good boost of spice.

The smallest portion was the beautifully arranged and presented "American Style" KOBE SHORT RIBS, Slow cooked with Indian Spices & Masoor Dal. There were only several pieces of meat, and at $37, they could have been a bit more generous. Incidentally, the cheapest entree is chicken at $28, but the prices go up fast to Lobster or Kobe Steak at $62.

We split one dessert for two, while our new friends had coffee. The GRATED APPLE & ASIAN PEAR "PIE with Almond Crumble and Tahitian Vanilla Ice Cream, was more of a deconstructed pie or truly a crumble and was delectable. We were pleased that Executive Chef SCOTT DREWNO (who hails from Puck's Vegas hot spots) came around to check on us after the meal.

I guess I might return to the Source, but not too quickly, and not too often at those prices. I would order a Zinfandel, taste more appetizers, and maybe share a large entree instead. Who knows? For I am truly not the only source of information.