I think I'm still recovering, but last Friday, May 19th was my half century mark, and we decided to celebrate with a bang.
Our evening started with 1996 LOUIS ROEDERE BLANC de BLANCS Vintage Champagne for a toast and continued with the yeastiest ever 1995 LA GRANDE DAME Veuve Cliquot Ponsardin that I have ever tasted! These were accompanied by exquisite STEAK TARTARE and TEMPURA FRIED ANCHOVIES w/Sage.
We sat down in the gorgeous private dining room to CURED & MARINATED TROUT and YELLOW FIN TUNA with Avocado & Blood Orange, with Mango and Coriander for added spice. Each of these courses was really TWO as each plate had a yin and yang as you shall see. It created great conversation over who liked which side of which plate! The exquisite RIESLING GRAND CRU 2001 from Domaine Paul Blanck in Alsace was a perfect foil to the mild fish and slight spice.
POTAGES of PETITS POIS & MORELS with Lemon Creme Fraiche and OSSETRA CAVIAR was again two soups, and they were both perfect, although I think we adored the novelty of the morels and its intensity. A mild ALBARINO ADEGAS GRANZABAN, Ambar from Rias Baixas 2004 in Spain was again a perfectly light accompaniment so as not to overpower the subtlety of the soups.
CARAMELIZED SCALLOP & SAUTEED CHESAPEAKE SOFT SHELL CRAB with COCONUT TAPIOCA, CARROT & GINGER was one of the highlights, even though every dish was superb. The scallop has a Lobster Citrus Emulsion, but I'm always pulled to my favorite soft shells. The ANJOU SEC from DOMAINE JO PITHON, Les Bergeres 2002 from the Loire tates like "pears in oak sauce" to quote one guest. A true treat and again brilliant pairing.
LIGHTLY BRAISED WEST COAST HALIBUT LOIN with Smoked Sable Brandade, Slowly Roasted Tomato Relish & Nicoises Olives was served with a Syrah based ROSE from JEAN LUC COLIMBO, Cote Bleue, 2005 from Coteaux d'Aix en Provence. The fish was superb and I am a fool for brandade, so who wouldn't have been happy.
the DUO of SONOMA ARTISAN FOIE GRAS was again really two courses with a TORCHON of Foie Gras with VANILLA POACHED QUINCE and a SAUTEED FOIE GRAS with GLAZED PLUMS & Black Pepper. This was truly one of the best creations Chef Jonathan KRINN has ever conceived in the Foie Gras realm, and we luckily were able to pair it with a Magnum of ALOIS KRACHER Nouvelle Vague Nummer 6 TockenbeerenAuslese Grand Cuvee from 1999 that I had brought back from Austria several years back. This huge bottle lasted the fgoie gras and dessert courses both, and there was plenty to share with the excellent staff as well. If I am not mistaken,
this is one of those amazing dessert wines that receivbed a high 90's rating from the Wine Spectator, making it even more of a treat.
ROASTED LAMB RIB EYE was served with a GATEAUX PROVENCAL of Anchovy, Sage & Chive Blossoms and we opened a very young subtle, yet delicious 1997 BRUNELLO di MONTALCINO CastelGiocondo from Frescobaldi. The meat was just past rare at the center and we were now up to 15-20 minute breaks between courses. What time was it?
SPICE CRUSTED MILLBROOK VENISON and TARO CRUSTED HUDSON VALLEY SQUAB BREAST with Fiddlehead Ferns, Creamed Parsley and Vintage Port Reduction was another stroke of genius. I loved the ferns and parsley and the both meats were cooked to perfection. We brought along a truly exciting 1983 CABERNET SAUVIGNON from ROBERT KEENAN in Napa that was a double magnum. We kept drinking this for some time, although I felt it was not as truly magnificent as we were hoping for.
The CHEESE TASTING of Roccolo, Azeitao, Gubbeen and Reina was served with Fig ALmond Rye Bread which reminded us about the spectacular breads we were noshing all night long, and a Vintage Port was served as well.
If you thought one dessert was enough, you would be wrong, for as we resumed the Karcher first came the WHITE & MILK CHOCOLATE TASTING with White Chocolate Cheesecake, Oregon Huckleberries and Milk Chocolate Mousse Napoleon with Strawberry, Vanilla and Rhubarb with Crispy Meringue. Just as we were ready to depart at just after 1AM, a huge birthday cake arrived, which we quickly packed up along with our breads and cotton candy bags and headed home.
It was a birthday I shall always remember so well.
