On my way back from Napa Valley to San Francisco, I spent much of the morning at the now 5-year old COPIA which is a gorgeous "living museum" dedicated to wine and food. While there I took in a wonderful short seminar on "Women in Wine" and saw several wonderful exhibits. Once can't skip the "museum shop" called CornuCOPIA, where I bought Samuel the most adorable dinosaur knife and spoon set (he's big into dinosaurs right now, as you may have guessed from his Halloween pictures).
After my museum visit I decided to take in lunch in the museum's fine dining restaurant (they also have a market-style-cafeteria outlet) and was very glad to have dined at JULIA's KITCHEN now under the guidance of the Patina group (watch this site for another review of Patina in LA this coming weekend) and superchef JOACHIM SPLITAL. At Copia's JULIA's KITCHEN the operation is under the guidance of Executive Chef JEFF MOSHER and Pastry Chef NICOLE PLUE who seem to have all things under total control from their open stainless steel kitchen that was feet away from my table, making the experience even more fun since I was alone. The gorgeous reddish-pink walls look like an overripe persimmon and the warm muted colors of the carpets make for a most calming effect. Opposite the kitchen and dining room are floor to ceiling glass walls overlooking the gardens where much of the ingredients used in the kitchen come from.
The glassware is Reidel (even for the water) and the bread comes from a bakery in Berkeley and featured green olive and black bread with raisins. Already, Julia's Kitchen was a step ahead of the Auberge in these small but important factors. An amuse of Crostini with Brandade of Cod, Apple Balsamic Vinegar and Chervil was a yummy tease. I ordered a glass of Pinot Noir to find out they were out of it, but the server said the CAMBRIA Pinot Noir which replaced that was even better--it was.
I opted for two starters and began with the GARDEN HERB CRUSTED AHI TUNA SALAD with Butter Lettuce, Roasted COPIA Peppers, Brioche Croutons and Julia's Sauce Ravigotte. Julia Child would have been proud of her sauce and the superb huge six rare slices of tuna and the crunchy tangy crust. Next came a LIBERTY DUCK CONFIT with FUYU PERSIMMONS, COPIA Pomegranate and Pomegranate Vinaigrette with Frisee. It was a superb salad as well and had a huge portion of delicious confit, but the stars here were the vegetables and fruits, a credit to the chef, kitchen and gardens outside.
I desperately wanted to try the LEMON TART with HUCKLEBERRY FLOATING ISLANDS but was full from two starters and had a long afternoon and evening ahead at the opera in the city, so I declined and headed on my way very satisfied and knowing I will return to JULIA's KITCHEN again.
Thursday, November 30, 2006
Wednesday, November 29, 2006
a night in NAPA - the artful AUBERGE du SOLEIL
It's been five years since my last visit to the NAPA VALLEY, where I used to gravitate to almost every year for a decade or more. This is a quick trip; in yesterday, off to San Francisco later today, so I thought long before deciding where to dine.
I chose to stay at the luxurious AUBERGE du SOLEIL (www.aubergdusoleil.com) with its gorgeous spacious suites overlooking the Napa Valley as I had always wanted to come here. The Restaurant at "Auberge" as it is more commonly known has had a long and illustrious history. Once considered the top dining spot in the valley and even all of California in days before the French Laundry even existed, it had some down years but has come back in the ratings to the top of the list. I somehow can't agree, however, that this is a top dining spot, while it was still mostly enjoyable.
The dining rooms sports the same subtle burnt orange colors used throughout the resort with modern artwork (another singnature) and a gigantic kiva-like fireplace. It was fun to watch the twinkling lights in the valley and turn to be mesmerized by the dancing embers in the fireplace. I opted to try Chef ROBERT CURRY's $120 Tasting Menu with the accompanying wines for an extra $80. I could have ordered a bottle of wine or even two half bottles for the same price (there are some surprisingly medium range priced wines on the extensive and exciting wine list), but felt the pairings would work best.
A glass of Sparkling 2003 SCHRAMSBERG BLANC de NOIRS from the North Coast was a bit too gassy for me with intense green apple flavor and a peachy finish. It needed to be a bit colder, but it was a refreshing aperitif. The amuse was a VENISON CARPACCIO with Julienne Hearts of Palm, Shaved Parmesan & Huckleberry Jus which was pretty good, but not exciting. The bread was a standard very SOURdough served warm with a nice crunchy crust.
My first course was TUNA SASHIMI, Sevruga Caviar, Poached Quail Egg and Sauteed Escarole. This dish was an odd combination of flavors as the Warm Escarole tasted as if it was pickled (although the server said it was not) making for a combination of many flavors depending on what you combined on your fork. I wisely kept the caviar away from the escarole.
A DAY BOAT SCALLOP with Verjus Poached Quince, BEETS, CANDIED WALNUTS & Horseradish Nage was also fun, and I normally don't care for these "foamy" dishes. The light horseradish foam was fun and especially tasty with the thick beet puree. A superb creamy 2004 MARTIN SCHAETZAL PINOT BLANC Reserve from Alsace was a brilliant pairing.
The rare and tasty PAN SEARED FOIE GRAS with HUCKLEBERRIES, Pain Perdu & Almonds was easily the highlight of the meal and the excellent (and also rare and expensive) 2004 DAGUENEAU et PAUTRAT "Les Jardins de Babylone" Jurancon from France was a real treat from the rare Petit & Gros Manseng grapes.
My server suggested we have a glass of Oregon Pinot next to the California as I had said I prefer the former. He offered up a glass of one of my favorites: DOMAINE SERENE 2003 "Evenstad Reserve" from Oregon which was completely wimpy as the bottle had been open for over a day. He ultimately replaced the glass with one from a new bottle, but I had to give in an d say the RENTERIA 2003 "River Ranch" Pinot Noir from Russian River Valley was still much better, bigger and fruitier. I have to also mention here that the medium quality glassware used by Auberge is really in bad need of upgrading.
It went superbly with the APPLE GLAZED PAINE FARM SQUAB, Braised Celery, Radish, Chestnuts & Medjool Dates. The dish was also superb and I adore chestnuts, but sadly one small piece of the sqaub was a bit too dry.
The VENISON TOURNEDOS wrapped in Pancetta with Sweet Potato Napoleon, Chestnuts & Red Wine Cranberry Jus which sadly came way past the rare to medium-rare I requested. I was so full, it didn't matter and instead thoroughly enjoyed the swirls of sweet potato with tall pieces of crunchy (baked or fried) root veggies standing at attention in their midst. The 2001 CLARK-CLAUDON Napa Valley Cabernet Sauvignon was a bit too tight for my taste, as so many cabs can be.
A spicy yet cool PUMPKIN GELEE with Fromage Blanc Sorbet was an enjoyable if jiggly palate cleanser.
Pastry Chef Paul Lemieux has reserached his chocolate well for the FRANCOIS PRALUS "TRINIDAD" Three Presentations. A NAPOLEON with CHOCOLATE CREAM had three ultra-thin layers (one was a bit plasticky) with dollops of chocolate in between that was none too exciting. The WARM CAKE with VANILLA FOAM was a small fondant like treat that was quite tasty, but the PAVLOVA (meringue) with CHOCOLATE SORBET took the prize as the sorbet was so intensely chocolately that it made it the one of the best I have ever had. Oddly, the beautiful rectangular presentation plate had curved edges on all four sides that resulted in the fork and spoon falling into the plate and food no matter WHERE one placed them! A Banyuls like 1990 Mas AMIEL from Maury in France was a perfect pairing as well with the intense chocolate, as anything too sweet would have been overly cloying.
I skipped the two chocolate mignardies and thoroughly enjoyed the mini APPLE FINANCIER and a refreshing STRAWBERRY-GUAVA Gelee before heading to my room where I lit a fire and realxed before heading to bed. Oddly, I awoke quite early because the temperatures dropped below freezing and my heat cut off dropping to the low 60's in my suite! So, I will now head out to warm up in the hot tub and workout room! I need that anyway!
More wine tasting today.
I chose to stay at the luxurious AUBERGE du SOLEIL (www.aubergdusoleil.com) with its gorgeous spacious suites overlooking the Napa Valley as I had always wanted to come here. The Restaurant at "Auberge" as it is more commonly known has had a long and illustrious history. Once considered the top dining spot in the valley and even all of California in days before the French Laundry even existed, it had some down years but has come back in the ratings to the top of the list. I somehow can't agree, however, that this is a top dining spot, while it was still mostly enjoyable.
The dining rooms sports the same subtle burnt orange colors used throughout the resort with modern artwork (another singnature) and a gigantic kiva-like fireplace. It was fun to watch the twinkling lights in the valley and turn to be mesmerized by the dancing embers in the fireplace. I opted to try Chef ROBERT CURRY's $120 Tasting Menu with the accompanying wines for an extra $80. I could have ordered a bottle of wine or even two half bottles for the same price (there are some surprisingly medium range priced wines on the extensive and exciting wine list), but felt the pairings would work best.
A glass of Sparkling 2003 SCHRAMSBERG BLANC de NOIRS from the North Coast was a bit too gassy for me with intense green apple flavor and a peachy finish. It needed to be a bit colder, but it was a refreshing aperitif. The amuse was a VENISON CARPACCIO with Julienne Hearts of Palm, Shaved Parmesan & Huckleberry Jus which was pretty good, but not exciting. The bread was a standard very SOURdough served warm with a nice crunchy crust.
My first course was TUNA SASHIMI, Sevruga Caviar, Poached Quail Egg and Sauteed Escarole. This dish was an odd combination of flavors as the Warm Escarole tasted as if it was pickled (although the server said it was not) making for a combination of many flavors depending on what you combined on your fork. I wisely kept the caviar away from the escarole.
A DAY BOAT SCALLOP with Verjus Poached Quince, BEETS, CANDIED WALNUTS & Horseradish Nage was also fun, and I normally don't care for these "foamy" dishes. The light horseradish foam was fun and especially tasty with the thick beet puree. A superb creamy 2004 MARTIN SCHAETZAL PINOT BLANC Reserve from Alsace was a brilliant pairing.
The rare and tasty PAN SEARED FOIE GRAS with HUCKLEBERRIES, Pain Perdu & Almonds was easily the highlight of the meal and the excellent (and also rare and expensive) 2004 DAGUENEAU et PAUTRAT "Les Jardins de Babylone" Jurancon from France was a real treat from the rare Petit & Gros Manseng grapes.
My server suggested we have a glass of Oregon Pinot next to the California as I had said I prefer the former. He offered up a glass of one of my favorites: DOMAINE SERENE 2003 "Evenstad Reserve" from Oregon which was completely wimpy as the bottle had been open for over a day. He ultimately replaced the glass with one from a new bottle, but I had to give in an d say the RENTERIA 2003 "River Ranch" Pinot Noir from Russian River Valley was still much better, bigger and fruitier. I have to also mention here that the medium quality glassware used by Auberge is really in bad need of upgrading.
It went superbly with the APPLE GLAZED PAINE FARM SQUAB, Braised Celery, Radish, Chestnuts & Medjool Dates. The dish was also superb and I adore chestnuts, but sadly one small piece of the sqaub was a bit too dry.
The VENISON TOURNEDOS wrapped in Pancetta with Sweet Potato Napoleon, Chestnuts & Red Wine Cranberry Jus which sadly came way past the rare to medium-rare I requested. I was so full, it didn't matter and instead thoroughly enjoyed the swirls of sweet potato with tall pieces of crunchy (baked or fried) root veggies standing at attention in their midst. The 2001 CLARK-CLAUDON Napa Valley Cabernet Sauvignon was a bit too tight for my taste, as so many cabs can be.
A spicy yet cool PUMPKIN GELEE with Fromage Blanc Sorbet was an enjoyable if jiggly palate cleanser.
Pastry Chef Paul Lemieux has reserached his chocolate well for the FRANCOIS PRALUS "TRINIDAD" Three Presentations. A NAPOLEON with CHOCOLATE CREAM had three ultra-thin layers (one was a bit plasticky) with dollops of chocolate in between that was none too exciting. The WARM CAKE with VANILLA FOAM was a small fondant like treat that was quite tasty, but the PAVLOVA (meringue) with CHOCOLATE SORBET took the prize as the sorbet was so intensely chocolately that it made it the one of the best I have ever had. Oddly, the beautiful rectangular presentation plate had curved edges on all four sides that resulted in the fork and spoon falling into the plate and food no matter WHERE one placed them! A Banyuls like 1990 Mas AMIEL from Maury in France was a perfect pairing as well with the intense chocolate, as anything too sweet would have been overly cloying.
I skipped the two chocolate mignardies and thoroughly enjoyed the mini APPLE FINANCIER and a refreshing STRAWBERRY-GUAVA Gelee before heading to my room where I lit a fire and realxed before heading to bed. Oddly, I awoke quite early because the temperatures dropped below freezing and my heat cut off dropping to the low 60's in my suite! So, I will now head out to warm up in the hot tub and workout room! I need that anyway!
More wine tasting today.
Friday, November 24, 2006
do dine at DISTRICT in the Theater District (NYC)
Located in the Muse Hotel at 103 W. 46th Street, just yards from Times Square, DISTRICT is the Kimpton Hotel chain's newest New York feather in their long list of restaurant plumage. A long cozy room with comfy velour and leather banquettes lots of amber, warm woods, steel and rope renders still a warm autumn feel, which was just right for the day after Thanksgiving. Each evening the prix fix pre-theater option of three courses for $42 is pretty much a no-brainer. The portions are large, filling and while perhaps not excellent, at the level of VERY good.
We started with ROASTED CAULIFLOWER SOUP with SMOKED COD & CAPER RELISH that was perfect because it was not too creamy and rich and used the cod and caper flavors to perfectly embellish the soup. A large portion called SMALL HEADS of LETTUCE with WHITE ANCHOVY CAESAR offered up a delicious portion of baby greens and tangy dressing.
The wine list is not too large at can be a bit daunting when you see several hundred dollar Haut-Brions on the list of say twenty to thirty bottles. We chose a superb ROSENBLUM CABERNET FRANCE 2003 "Kenefick" Vineyard that was superbly strong and spicy at 15.5% alcohol, easily akin to a fine zin. The wine was also served in elegant Schott crystal for even better taste.
The entrees were all huge portions of HERB ROPASTED CHICKEN with WILD ORZO & Bacon Braised Collard Greens; APPLE CIDER BRAISED VEAL (this has a slight surcharge on the prix fixe) with creamy (cheezy rich) POLENTA, Savoy Cabbage and Red Currants and my OLD FASHIONED LAZY DUCK came with long tasty SPAEZTLE and Baby Carrot Saute. The only real thing we did not like was the SO intense richness of the polenta that overpowered everything.
Desserts are perfect sized and tasty from a modern take on a CHOCOLATE CUP CAKE to the excellent CARAMELIZED BREAD PUDDING with Cider Braised Apple & Fromage Blanc Ice Cream. This was a perfectly arranged dish of a rectangular piece of pudding with an extremely chewy caramel topping and the adorable apple on one side and the ice cream on the other.
We headed off to a wonderful performance of COMPANY (although we did not care for the modern staging) with a super cast and are happy to know the theatre district has a new dining destination in DISTRICT.
We started with ROASTED CAULIFLOWER SOUP with SMOKED COD & CAPER RELISH that was perfect because it was not too creamy and rich and used the cod and caper flavors to perfectly embellish the soup. A large portion called SMALL HEADS of LETTUCE with WHITE ANCHOVY CAESAR offered up a delicious portion of baby greens and tangy dressing.
The wine list is not too large at can be a bit daunting when you see several hundred dollar Haut-Brions on the list of say twenty to thirty bottles. We chose a superb ROSENBLUM CABERNET FRANCE 2003 "Kenefick" Vineyard that was superbly strong and spicy at 15.5% alcohol, easily akin to a fine zin. The wine was also served in elegant Schott crystal for even better taste.
The entrees were all huge portions of HERB ROPASTED CHICKEN with WILD ORZO & Bacon Braised Collard Greens; APPLE CIDER BRAISED VEAL (this has a slight surcharge on the prix fixe) with creamy (cheezy rich) POLENTA, Savoy Cabbage and Red Currants and my OLD FASHIONED LAZY DUCK came with long tasty SPAEZTLE and Baby Carrot Saute. The only real thing we did not like was the SO intense richness of the polenta that overpowered everything.
Desserts are perfect sized and tasty from a modern take on a CHOCOLATE CUP CAKE to the excellent CARAMELIZED BREAD PUDDING with Cider Braised Apple & Fromage Blanc Ice Cream. This was a perfectly arranged dish of a rectangular piece of pudding with an extremely chewy caramel topping and the adorable apple on one side and the ice cream on the other.
We headed off to a wonderful performance of COMPANY (although we did not care for the modern staging) with a super cast and are happy to know the theatre district has a new dining destination in DISTRICT.
Sunday, November 19, 2006
another operatic adventure-ALMA de CUBA in Philly
As I sit on the Amtrak Acela train back to Washington in FIRST CLASS, I am totally bombed that they can't find a glass of red wine on board. They have offered everything from the sweetest yuck to a white wine I'm not in the mood for (they don't even have sparkling water!). The First Class attendant even tried to pawn a glass of red wine from the cafe, but they won't hear the likes of it. What is the point of spending the extra money (and I'm in this business!)? I used to enjoy a Grand Marnier on this late train home, but that's another item they dropped; and who can bide Bailey's?!!- AS I WRITE THIS lo an behold, after complaining to the conductor, someone at Customer Service forced them to give me a 1/2 bottle of HAHN 2005 Cabernet Central Coast (yuck, cheap, but decent)..so I drop my complaint heretofore.
At least tonight's dinner was a huge success. I was joined by two dear clients after their performance in Rossini's La Cenerentola (Cinderella) here (well, back there) in Philly for a totally fabulous dinner at ALMA de CUBA (at 1623 Walnut St. in downtown Philadelphia). Upon arrival we could not decide what to order for our appetizers because there were so many wonderful selections, and then our server gave us the exciting specials. WHAT TO CHOOSE? We finally agreed to order and share three ceviche dishes:
The CALAMARI & CONCH Special with Pomegranate-Orange Sauce and Roasted Sweet Potatoes was actually the least exciting, while my RAINBOW CEVICHE had loads of tuna, salmon and fluke in lime juice with jalapeno and Roasted Sweet Potatoes as well. This was a more Asian style preparation than the others, but totally delicious (and huge). The FIRE & ICE Ceviche was FLUKE in preserved lemon & sage with Crispy Lemon Rings and a Hot Garlic Oil poured over it by the server. I can't recall having fluke before (and I must have) but it makes a great ceviche.
We ate these with CARMEN (how appropriate for opera singers) Sauvignon Blanc 2005 from the Rapel Valley in Chile that was crispy, citrusy and refreshing--perfect for all the dishes.
The small white Cuban sweet rolls came to the table warm and were irresistible with their cilantro/garlic oil that we poured over them. Luckily, these were cleared with the appetizers or we would never have eaten our entrees!
We suddenly had a yen for the CRAB EMPANADA SPECIAL which provided the three of us one large OPEN FLAME ROASTED Empanada over a White Asparagus & Cucumber Salad with a Tomato Chutney---it was supreme. Our red wine was a simple yet smokey TERRA NOBLE 2004 CARMENERE GRAN RESERVA from Chile that our charming server Amelia recommended. It was perfect with our meat entrees: BEEF TENDERLOIN CHURRASCO Style with Asparagus Spicy Crab Dressing and Ancho Chili Chimichurri--this was superb, and my excellent VACA FRITA "Fried Cow" of twice cooked crispy skirt steak with onions, Cuban oregano, the traditional black beans with rice and a tomato escabeche.
I must also note that while one of the entrees got screwed up, the manager immediately brought a special "amuse" of a bacon stuffed date so that one of us would not be without food. Indeed, I was quite amazed to note that the menu lists ALL the employees from servers to managers to dishwashers so that everyone on premises gets credit and we know who they are.
Dessert was difficult to refuse, so we decided to choose two: CHOCOLATE TRES LECHES with Caramel Espuma, Vanilla Poached Oranges and Salted Caramel Ice cream (need I say more) was the easy hit, but my choco-intense CHOCOLATE CIGAR with Almond Cake in CHOCOLATE MOUSSE dusted in chocolate with DULCE de LECHE Ice Cream was clearly too intense for moi. Three bites and I divided the rest. It was a gorgeous presentation looking just like a Cuban cigar and even with the little ALMA de CUBA Cigar wrapper!
Indeed, it was such a fun and tasty evening, that I look forward to returning to the yummy food of Philly soon!
At least tonight's dinner was a huge success. I was joined by two dear clients after their performance in Rossini's La Cenerentola (Cinderella) here (well, back there) in Philly for a totally fabulous dinner at ALMA de CUBA (at 1623 Walnut St. in downtown Philadelphia). Upon arrival we could not decide what to order for our appetizers because there were so many wonderful selections, and then our server gave us the exciting specials. WHAT TO CHOOSE? We finally agreed to order and share three ceviche dishes:
The CALAMARI & CONCH Special with Pomegranate-Orange Sauce and Roasted Sweet Potatoes was actually the least exciting, while my RAINBOW CEVICHE had loads of tuna, salmon and fluke in lime juice with jalapeno and Roasted Sweet Potatoes as well. This was a more Asian style preparation than the others, but totally delicious (and huge). The FIRE & ICE Ceviche was FLUKE in preserved lemon & sage with Crispy Lemon Rings and a Hot Garlic Oil poured over it by the server. I can't recall having fluke before (and I must have) but it makes a great ceviche.
We ate these with CARMEN (how appropriate for opera singers) Sauvignon Blanc 2005 from the Rapel Valley in Chile that was crispy, citrusy and refreshing--perfect for all the dishes.
The small white Cuban sweet rolls came to the table warm and were irresistible with their cilantro/garlic oil that we poured over them. Luckily, these were cleared with the appetizers or we would never have eaten our entrees!
We suddenly had a yen for the CRAB EMPANADA SPECIAL which provided the three of us one large OPEN FLAME ROASTED Empanada over a White Asparagus & Cucumber Salad with a Tomato Chutney---it was supreme. Our red wine was a simple yet smokey TERRA NOBLE 2004 CARMENERE GRAN RESERVA from Chile that our charming server Amelia recommended. It was perfect with our meat entrees: BEEF TENDERLOIN CHURRASCO Style with Asparagus Spicy Crab Dressing and Ancho Chili Chimichurri--this was superb, and my excellent VACA FRITA "Fried Cow" of twice cooked crispy skirt steak with onions, Cuban oregano, the traditional black beans with rice and a tomato escabeche.
I must also note that while one of the entrees got screwed up, the manager immediately brought a special "amuse" of a bacon stuffed date so that one of us would not be without food. Indeed, I was quite amazed to note that the menu lists ALL the employees from servers to managers to dishwashers so that everyone on premises gets credit and we know who they are.
Dessert was difficult to refuse, so we decided to choose two: CHOCOLATE TRES LECHES with Caramel Espuma, Vanilla Poached Oranges and Salted Caramel Ice cream (need I say more) was the easy hit, but my choco-intense CHOCOLATE CIGAR with Almond Cake in CHOCOLATE MOUSSE dusted in chocolate with DULCE de LECHE Ice Cream was clearly too intense for moi. Three bites and I divided the rest. It was a gorgeous presentation looking just like a Cuban cigar and even with the little ALMA de CUBA Cigar wrapper!
Indeed, it was such a fun and tasty evening, that I look forward to returning to the yummy food of Philly soon!
Wednesday, November 15, 2006
Roberto DONNA wins Capital Food Fight/great FOODIE event & fundraiser
Last night I attended the CAPITAL FOOD FIGHT for the first time which benefits the DC CENTRAL KITCHEN. It as a super event marred only by the extreme loudness of the sound system during the actual "food fight" portions of the evening. The individual food stations were FAAAAAABULOUS and included chefs from all over the region and represented about FIFTY restaurants!
Imagine one room with NO LINES at tables where the likes of
Greggory Hill of DAVID GREGGORY
Jamie Leeds of HANKS OYSTER BAR
Kaz Okochi of KAZ SUSHI BISTRO
Vikram Garg of INDEBLEU
Jeff Buben of VIDALIA/BIS
Tracy O'Grady & Kate Jansen of WILLOW
Baront Seaver of CAFE SAINT-EX/Bar Pilar
Rahman Harper of B. SMITH'S
Michael Harr of BUTTERFIELD9
not to mentions those from Argia's, 100 King, 1789, Cafe Atlantico, Chipotle, Farrah Olivia, Galieo/Bebo Trattoria, Kinkead's, Lebanese Taverna, Firefly, Agraria, Charlie Palmer Steak, Taberna del Alabardero, Maestro, Mie N Yu, Les Halles, Rock Creek, Olives, Zengo, Nage, Notte Biache/Dish, The Ritz-Carlton, Wegmans, Tosca and Santa Lucia Estate Coffee and some of the yummiest pastries and desserts from the staff at the REAGAN BLDG itself.
There was good wine, wine tastings, sake tastings, sushi bars, cake tables and oh so much more. Everything from smoked salmon to foie gras to oyster shooters and melon shooters.
There were live and silent auction items so of which went for many thousands of $$, and a very generous couple even announced a $1million donation to the Central Kitchen; now ain't that a boost?!
Other than the food, the MAIN EVENT on stage was the actual competition which is kind of a mini Iron Chef competition, where teams of chefs compete in 10minute segments for the main title.
Battle #1 had BOB KINKEAD(Kinkead's) & SANTI ZABALETI(Taberna) edging out VIKRAM GARG (Indebleu) and JOHN WABECK (Firefly) as the celebrity judges jokingly made fun of the competititors.
Battle #2 was TIM ELLIOT(Mie N Yu) & JAMIE LEES(Hanks) losing to ROBERTO DONNA (Galileo/Bebo) & ANTHONY CHITTUM (Notte Bianche/Dish).
Battle #3 had the first two winning teams head to head and it was quite close with the DONNA/CHITTUM team going into the finals against last year's winner RIS LACOSTE & KEN ORINGER. The winner was ROBERTO DONNA, but in the hubub and noise, I somehow missed where Anthony Chittum seemed to drop out--maybe there was a faceoff at some point.
No matter, lots of money was raised, lots of food and drink consumed, and everyone seemed VERY happy, even the losing chefs!
Can't wait for next year!
Imagine one room with NO LINES at tables where the likes of
Greggory Hill of DAVID GREGGORY
Jamie Leeds of HANKS OYSTER BAR
Kaz Okochi of KAZ SUSHI BISTRO
Vikram Garg of INDEBLEU
Jeff Buben of VIDALIA/BIS
Tracy O'Grady & Kate Jansen of WILLOW
Baront Seaver of CAFE SAINT-EX/Bar Pilar
Rahman Harper of B. SMITH'S
Michael Harr of BUTTERFIELD9
not to mentions those from Argia's, 100 King, 1789, Cafe Atlantico, Chipotle, Farrah Olivia, Galieo/Bebo Trattoria, Kinkead's, Lebanese Taverna, Firefly, Agraria, Charlie Palmer Steak, Taberna del Alabardero, Maestro, Mie N Yu, Les Halles, Rock Creek, Olives, Zengo, Nage, Notte Biache/Dish, The Ritz-Carlton, Wegmans, Tosca and Santa Lucia Estate Coffee and some of the yummiest pastries and desserts from the staff at the REAGAN BLDG itself.
There was good wine, wine tastings, sake tastings, sushi bars, cake tables and oh so much more. Everything from smoked salmon to foie gras to oyster shooters and melon shooters.
There were live and silent auction items so of which went for many thousands of $$, and a very generous couple even announced a $1million donation to the Central Kitchen; now ain't that a boost?!
Other than the food, the MAIN EVENT on stage was the actual competition which is kind of a mini Iron Chef competition, where teams of chefs compete in 10minute segments for the main title.
Battle #1 had BOB KINKEAD(Kinkead's) & SANTI ZABALETI(Taberna) edging out VIKRAM GARG (Indebleu) and JOHN WABECK (Firefly) as the celebrity judges jokingly made fun of the competititors.
Battle #2 was TIM ELLIOT(Mie N Yu) & JAMIE LEES(Hanks) losing to ROBERTO DONNA (Galileo/Bebo) & ANTHONY CHITTUM (Notte Bianche/Dish).
Battle #3 had the first two winning teams head to head and it was quite close with the DONNA/CHITTUM team going into the finals against last year's winner RIS LACOSTE & KEN ORINGER. The winner was ROBERTO DONNA, but in the hubub and noise, I somehow missed where Anthony Chittum seemed to drop out--maybe there was a faceoff at some point.
No matter, lots of money was raised, lots of food and drink consumed, and everyone seemed VERY happy, even the losing chefs!
Can't wait for next year!
Tuesday, November 14, 2006
Chef Jeff Black of Blacksalt/Black's and more cooks privately for Food&Friends
Each year we try to attend one of the CELEBRITY CHEF DINNER SERIES evenings held in the kitchen at FOOD & FRIENDS amazing facility located in NE Washington. These wonderful dinners are held several times each year and are limited to guests who make major donations to Food & Friends (www.foodandfriends.org) , which is, of course, one of our favorite charities.
I am writing about last night's dinner for two reasons. First of all, it was, perhaps, the best one we have ever had in many years of attending these great events. Second, I would urge you to make a LARGE donation to Food & Friends so you too can support a most worthy cause and also get the chance to attend. This year the series includes Neal Langermann of Clyde's of Chevy Chase, Craig Hartman of the Morrison-Clark Inn, Vikram Garg of IndeBleu and last night's team headed by Chef JEFF BLACK including Chef MALLORY BUFORD of Black's Bar & Kitchen, Chef de Cuisine JOSEPH ZUMPANO of BLACKSALT and Pastry Chef JANELLE (we sadly missed her last name).
It was a memorable evening commencing with a reception (and tours of the facility for those who desired) of SAINT-GERMAIN Sparkling Brut with superb huge SALMON CAKES, CHICKEN FOIE GRAS in Pastry Puff with Plum Sauce (that was more like a mini chicken wurst), GOAT CHEESE over Pastry Straw with Beet-Pistachio Sauce and finally the most delicious TORCHON of FOIE GRAS over FIG on Brioche Round. It was very hard to resist gobbling up all the superb delicacies, but we managed to arrest our arms from grabbing everything in sight as we were escorted into the main prep area at the huge facility for our sit down dinner.
We started with a superb TUNA TARTARE that was enhanced magnificently with TRUFFLE CAULIFLOWER CREAM, HAZELNUTS, Extra Virgin Olive Oil & Flatbread. The tuna was heaven with the intensely truffly cream, and was paired with atop quality MOMOKAWA JUNAMI GINJO DIAMOND Sake that was perfectly dry.
Next came OYSTER STEW with Yukon Gold Potatoes, Leeks, FIne Herbs, Caviar & Vermouth Cream that was extremely tasty, so much so that folks yearned for bread to mop up the bottom of the bowl. No need to, there was MUCH MORE coming. The soup was paired with an excellently fruity YALUMBA 2005 VIOGNIER from Australia.
SEARED BUTTERFISH (also called white tuna or escolar) was a very rich and intense fish served with QUINOA & WILD MUSHROOM FONDUE in a medium size portion that was more than enough. I am sure this type of dish can be easily found at one of the Black restaurants, but our portions and tasting style menu was just brilliant, as was our table company, too. The MAISON NICOLAS CHARDONNAY 2005 from France was nice, but nothing to write home about.
BRAISED BEEF SHORT RIBS with White Bean Puree, Local Organic Greens & Baby Carrots proved that Chef Black and his team excel at meat as well as fish, and a superb LA SLINA DOLCETTO d'OVADA 2004 was an excellent choice of wine as well.
The desserts were top notch and each of us received a plate with a PUMPKIN FLAN (almost like a creme brulee, but with Pumpkin Seeds on top for crunch), a small round SPICED CAKE about 2 inches in diameter and a moist POACHED PEAR. I am sure that each diner found one or two, if not three items here that were satisfying. Some jellies and chocolate drops came, but I resisted and sipped the PIERRE HUET Demi-Sec POIREE CIDRE BOUCHE which was a light French sparkling cider that was like drinking fizzy water, it just was so cooling and satisfying.
There are still more dinners in the series in January & February, but I'm not sure if they are full. I am confidant a large contribution to such a worthy cause will get you in!
I am writing about last night's dinner for two reasons. First of all, it was, perhaps, the best one we have ever had in many years of attending these great events. Second, I would urge you to make a LARGE donation to Food & Friends so you too can support a most worthy cause and also get the chance to attend. This year the series includes Neal Langermann of Clyde's of Chevy Chase, Craig Hartman of the Morrison-Clark Inn, Vikram Garg of IndeBleu and last night's team headed by Chef JEFF BLACK including Chef MALLORY BUFORD of Black's Bar & Kitchen, Chef de Cuisine JOSEPH ZUMPANO of BLACKSALT and Pastry Chef JANELLE (we sadly missed her last name).
It was a memorable evening commencing with a reception (and tours of the facility for those who desired) of SAINT-GERMAIN Sparkling Brut with superb huge SALMON CAKES, CHICKEN FOIE GRAS in Pastry Puff with Plum Sauce (that was more like a mini chicken wurst), GOAT CHEESE over Pastry Straw with Beet-Pistachio Sauce and finally the most delicious TORCHON of FOIE GRAS over FIG on Brioche Round. It was very hard to resist gobbling up all the superb delicacies, but we managed to arrest our arms from grabbing everything in sight as we were escorted into the main prep area at the huge facility for our sit down dinner.
We started with a superb TUNA TARTARE that was enhanced magnificently with TRUFFLE CAULIFLOWER CREAM, HAZELNUTS, Extra Virgin Olive Oil & Flatbread. The tuna was heaven with the intensely truffly cream, and was paired with atop quality MOMOKAWA JUNAMI GINJO DIAMOND Sake that was perfectly dry.
Next came OYSTER STEW with Yukon Gold Potatoes, Leeks, FIne Herbs, Caviar & Vermouth Cream that was extremely tasty, so much so that folks yearned for bread to mop up the bottom of the bowl. No need to, there was MUCH MORE coming. The soup was paired with an excellently fruity YALUMBA 2005 VIOGNIER from Australia.
SEARED BUTTERFISH (also called white tuna or escolar) was a very rich and intense fish served with QUINOA & WILD MUSHROOM FONDUE in a medium size portion that was more than enough. I am sure this type of dish can be easily found at one of the Black restaurants, but our portions and tasting style menu was just brilliant, as was our table company, too. The MAISON NICOLAS CHARDONNAY 2005 from France was nice, but nothing to write home about.
BRAISED BEEF SHORT RIBS with White Bean Puree, Local Organic Greens & Baby Carrots proved that Chef Black and his team excel at meat as well as fish, and a superb LA SLINA DOLCETTO d'OVADA 2004 was an excellent choice of wine as well.
The desserts were top notch and each of us received a plate with a PUMPKIN FLAN (almost like a creme brulee, but with Pumpkin Seeds on top for crunch), a small round SPICED CAKE about 2 inches in diameter and a moist POACHED PEAR. I am sure that each diner found one or two, if not three items here that were satisfying. Some jellies and chocolate drops came, but I resisted and sipped the PIERRE HUET Demi-Sec POIREE CIDRE BOUCHE which was a light French sparkling cider that was like drinking fizzy water, it just was so cooling and satisfying.
There are still more dinners in the series in January & February, but I'm not sure if they are full. I am confidant a large contribution to such a worthy cause will get you in!
Saturday, November 11, 2006
Unassuming AZUCAR is cool & Cuban at its best (NYC)
Tonight's dinner at AZUCAR (www.azucarnyc.com) right after a pretty boring play on Broadway was the perfect way to meet a friend for dinner halfway between Times Square & Lincoln Center. I have written about Azucar before, but tonight was the best meal I have ever had there. The glass of NIETO SENETINO Chardonnay Reserve from Argentina that I started with was the only thing that was a bit too acidic for my taste; I should have had the superb WHITE SANGRIA!
The fresh CEVICHE MIXTO had huge marinated rings of calamari, bay scallops, shrimp, fish and a pickled pimento on top for flavor. All the tapas are so good it is hard to decide, but always include the CHORIZO SALEADO con MARIQUITAS which are richly sauteed sausage slices with fried plantains. At this point we ordered a bottle of the always yummy FELIPE RUTINI 2004 MALBEC from Argentina. At $38, this is a NY City bargain for wine and shouldn't be overlooked when the mediocre wines offered are just $30-32!
We both ordered one of the best entrees ever at Azucar: CHURRASCO CON CHIMICHURRI with POTATO SALAD. The Grilled Skirt steak was a tender long strip and must have been at least 10 ounces; on the side was a small bowl of the most flavorful thickish chimichurri sauce ever. I am so glad it was not one of those wimpy thin sauces one often gets. The huge portion of delicious potato salad was the perfect foil to the sometimes spice/garlic in the sauce, and the Malbec went down right after so smoothly, we were both in heaven.
It's a shame the opera afterwards and the play beforehand were not as enjoyable!
The fresh CEVICHE MIXTO had huge marinated rings of calamari, bay scallops, shrimp, fish and a pickled pimento on top for flavor. All the tapas are so good it is hard to decide, but always include the CHORIZO SALEADO con MARIQUITAS which are richly sauteed sausage slices with fried plantains. At this point we ordered a bottle of the always yummy FELIPE RUTINI 2004 MALBEC from Argentina. At $38, this is a NY City bargain for wine and shouldn't be overlooked when the mediocre wines offered are just $30-32!
We both ordered one of the best entrees ever at Azucar: CHURRASCO CON CHIMICHURRI with POTATO SALAD. The Grilled Skirt steak was a tender long strip and must have been at least 10 ounces; on the side was a small bowl of the most flavorful thickish chimichurri sauce ever. I am so glad it was not one of those wimpy thin sauces one often gets. The huge portion of delicious potato salad was the perfect foil to the sometimes spice/garlic in the sauce, and the Malbec went down right after so smoothly, we were both in heaven.
It's a shame the opera afterwards and the play beforehand were not as enjoyable!
Friday, November 10, 2006
bravo for BOULEY - a truly French treat hidden in NYC
Tonight I visited one of NY City's gastronomic temples and BOULEY (www.bouley.net) RESTAURANT in the depths of Soho (where is seems so many top NY restaurants are located) deserves all the praise it gets. TO begin with upon entering one is greeted by the aroma of apples all arranged in the entryway, this followed by candled and many more scents, all appealing to the tummy and getting me very ready to eat. Should you decide to dine at Bouley and wish to be more European and less NY, ask for the room to the right with its low white arced ceilings, sparsely distanced tables and a real taste of French elegance. Our corner table had many pillows and throws on the banquette and was so secluded we felt as if nobody else was there; the service however, was pretty much spotless, so they knew we were there! if you CRAVE New York City, action and a bit of noise, go to the right for the red arched larger room, but you wont catch me there.
I must first state that my flight to NY was late and upon landing I called Bouley to advise we might be about 30 minutes late. My fears that they would say "don't bother coming" were unfound when the courteous maitre d' Kate said "no problem" We arrived at 630pm (exactly 30 mins late) and were ushered to what I consider one of the best tables in the house; our dinner was never rushed! Also, they allowed two of us to order ala carte while I chose the tasting menu. This can often be a problem at many fine dining establishments, but they handled it to perfection (glutton that I am!).
At first we were served two types of bread, but as soon as we gobbled down the precious pain, a tray was proffered with 8 or more breads sliced to order: Black Olive, Pistachio Garlic, Fig & more. Wouldn't you know that the chef's amuse or canape was a GRAPEFRUIT CAPPUCINO with segments of grapefruit and my cholesterol drug specifically denies me this fruit. A replacement of SWEET CORN & BLACK TRUFFLE in a light Pastry PIROUETTE appeared before I could even be upset.
My guests chose a delicious CHATEAU DURFORT-VIVERS 2000 Margaux from Bordeax that needed air, while opted for the paired wines which began with a TEMENT SAUVIGNON BLANC 2005 from Styria in Austria which is another new and fabulous find in the white wine department. It paired brilliantly with my PHYLLO CRUSTED FLORIDA SHRIMP, CAPE COD BABY SQUID, SCUBA DIVED SEA SCALLOP, SWEET MARYLAND CRABMEAT in Ocean Herbal Broth (almost light pesto like). It was very French in its conception, but very American in its ingredients.
Both my guests opted for the novel ORGANIC CONNECTICUT FARM EGG Steamed with BLACK TRUFFLE, Serrano Ham, Parmesan Reggiano & 25 Year Old Balsamic Vinegar.
I moved on to a terrine-like "RETURN from CHIANG MAI" -Chilled MAINE LOBSTER, MANGO, Fresh ARTICHOKE & Serrano Ham, Passion Fruit, Fresh Coconut & Tamarind Dressing that was like an exotic ketchup. It was a wild combination, but a truly delicious flavor all mixed together or tasted separately. The 2004 ALBERT MANN GEWURTZTRAMINER was a bit sweet at first, but turned more peppery as time passed.
Entrees were all a hit from the ORGANIC CONNECTICUT FARM RAISED PIG with Cippolini Onion & Green Tomato Chutney which had the crunchiest pigskin crust one could ever wish for and the perfectly cooked ORGANIC PENNSYLVANIA RACK of LAMB with Roasted Baby Eggplant, baby Leeks and puree of Langres Cheese (that was apparently mistaken for mashed potatoes). My ORGANIC BREAST of LONG ISLAND DUCK with Orange Glaxed Belgian Endive, Quince Puree & Duck Jus was cooked just past rare and every bite was heaven. The mashed fingerling potatoes that accompanied each dish were a bit too creamy for me, but my guest insisted she LOVED THEM CREAMY! My JEAN LUC COLOMBO 2003 CROZES HERMITAGES "Les Fees Brunes" was the only disappointment all night. A nice Rhone blend, but very bland, and not worthy of the duck at all.
We all enjoyed the first dessert of CHILLED CONCORD GRAPE SOUP with APPLE CIDER & GINGER GELEE with Fromage Blanc Sorbet (Sam would have loved this one) and mine came with a not too sweet KAMOIZUMI Konekome-Shu Sake.
We all tasted some of Linda's cheeses except for the strong Gorgonzola. The Valence goat was boring, the Epoisse not at the level we had four night's earlier in DC, but the CHAOURCE was superb, the FLIXIR, a Swiss sheep very nutty and the LIVAROT superb.
My dessert was a CARAMEL CHIBOUST with Italian Plums, Crunchy Almond Dacquoise, Rum Toffee and Prune-Armagnac Ice Cream was superb, despite its overdose sound. The simple chiboust was a souffle like fruit pastry and truly a treat as I don't recall ever having one before. A Banyuls Ame de Pierre from Cazalet was a perfect foil to the prune and plum and fruit, and some little mignardises came as relaxed and enjoyed each other's company.
On our departure, Linda was given a tea cake to take home (only the women get this!), which she later gave to me to give my Mom!
BRAVO to BOULEY!
I must first state that my flight to NY was late and upon landing I called Bouley to advise we might be about 30 minutes late. My fears that they would say "don't bother coming" were unfound when the courteous maitre d' Kate said "no problem" We arrived at 630pm (exactly 30 mins late) and were ushered to what I consider one of the best tables in the house; our dinner was never rushed! Also, they allowed two of us to order ala carte while I chose the tasting menu. This can often be a problem at many fine dining establishments, but they handled it to perfection (glutton that I am!).
At first we were served two types of bread, but as soon as we gobbled down the precious pain, a tray was proffered with 8 or more breads sliced to order: Black Olive, Pistachio Garlic, Fig & more. Wouldn't you know that the chef's amuse or canape was a GRAPEFRUIT CAPPUCINO with segments of grapefruit and my cholesterol drug specifically denies me this fruit. A replacement of SWEET CORN & BLACK TRUFFLE in a light Pastry PIROUETTE appeared before I could even be upset.
My guests chose a delicious CHATEAU DURFORT-VIVERS 2000 Margaux from Bordeax that needed air, while opted for the paired wines which began with a TEMENT SAUVIGNON BLANC 2005 from Styria in Austria which is another new and fabulous find in the white wine department. It paired brilliantly with my PHYLLO CRUSTED FLORIDA SHRIMP, CAPE COD BABY SQUID, SCUBA DIVED SEA SCALLOP, SWEET MARYLAND CRABMEAT in Ocean Herbal Broth (almost light pesto like). It was very French in its conception, but very American in its ingredients.
Both my guests opted for the novel ORGANIC CONNECTICUT FARM EGG Steamed with BLACK TRUFFLE, Serrano Ham, Parmesan Reggiano & 25 Year Old Balsamic Vinegar.
I moved on to a terrine-like "RETURN from CHIANG MAI" -Chilled MAINE LOBSTER, MANGO, Fresh ARTICHOKE & Serrano Ham, Passion Fruit, Fresh Coconut & Tamarind Dressing that was like an exotic ketchup. It was a wild combination, but a truly delicious flavor all mixed together or tasted separately. The 2004 ALBERT MANN GEWURTZTRAMINER was a bit sweet at first, but turned more peppery as time passed.
Entrees were all a hit from the ORGANIC CONNECTICUT FARM RAISED PIG with Cippolini Onion & Green Tomato Chutney which had the crunchiest pigskin crust one could ever wish for and the perfectly cooked ORGANIC PENNSYLVANIA RACK of LAMB with Roasted Baby Eggplant, baby Leeks and puree of Langres Cheese (that was apparently mistaken for mashed potatoes). My ORGANIC BREAST of LONG ISLAND DUCK with Orange Glaxed Belgian Endive, Quince Puree & Duck Jus was cooked just past rare and every bite was heaven. The mashed fingerling potatoes that accompanied each dish were a bit too creamy for me, but my guest insisted she LOVED THEM CREAMY! My JEAN LUC COLOMBO 2003 CROZES HERMITAGES "Les Fees Brunes" was the only disappointment all night. A nice Rhone blend, but very bland, and not worthy of the duck at all.
We all enjoyed the first dessert of CHILLED CONCORD GRAPE SOUP with APPLE CIDER & GINGER GELEE with Fromage Blanc Sorbet (Sam would have loved this one) and mine came with a not too sweet KAMOIZUMI Konekome-Shu Sake.
We all tasted some of Linda's cheeses except for the strong Gorgonzola. The Valence goat was boring, the Epoisse not at the level we had four night's earlier in DC, but the CHAOURCE was superb, the FLIXIR, a Swiss sheep very nutty and the LIVAROT superb.
My dessert was a CARAMEL CHIBOUST with Italian Plums, Crunchy Almond Dacquoise, Rum Toffee and Prune-Armagnac Ice Cream was superb, despite its overdose sound. The simple chiboust was a souffle like fruit pastry and truly a treat as I don't recall ever having one before. A Banyuls Ame de Pierre from Cazalet was a perfect foil to the prune and plum and fruit, and some little mignardises came as relaxed and enjoyed each other's company.
On our departure, Linda was given a tea cake to take home (only the women get this!), which she later gave to me to give my Mom!
BRAVO to BOULEY!
Monday, November 06, 2006
Chefs (11) cook up a storm at Swenson Benefit/Wiedmaier(of Marcel's) WOWS us!
Last night was one of the most exciting evening that Washington can offer up for foodies. The benefit arranged for the PHILLIP NATHANIEL SWENSON Foundation was chock full of chefs cooking at burners for each individual table, and we were lucky enough to be seated at the table where Chef ROBERT WIEDMAIER of Marcel's presided.
Host Sue Palka of local Fox News roamed the room with a mike to chat with diners and each chef so we all knew what was going on at each table. We drooled as we listened to all the menus, but we were thrilled with our menu as well. All of the generous chefs (listed below) not only cooked and served, but then auctioned themselves off to make thousands of extra dollars for the fund which keeps Phillip's education and treatment for autism continuing. On a personal note, it was even more satisfying since our son SAMUEL often has playdates with Phillip and we, as friends, can see his development and improvement. Just last week, he constructed his first sentence, "Mommy, I need you!" which had us all in tears. In the future the Foundation will have additional events and I can't urge you all enough to support this important cause.
Back to dinner which started with an amuse of CHESTNUT SOUP with Shallots & Foie Gras & Black Truffle Essence. We all sucked strongly on the straws in the shot glasses of superb creamy rich soup-my favorite kind on earth!
The fish course was a beautiful pink PAN SEARED ALASKAN KING SALMON on a GRUYERE Cheese POTATO CAKE with a POACHED QUAIL EGG & CAVIAR carefully poised on top all sitting in a SABAYON Sauce. It was simply delicious and paired to perfection with a CHATEAU GRAVILLE LACOSTE 2004 Graves from Bordeaux.
The meal continued as we eagerly watch Chef Robert sear the meat and as smoke bellowed from the pans (I was actually worried about the fire alarms!) and he prepared the ROASTED LOIN of VENISON with CONFIT of BRUSSEL SPROUTS in a SHALLOT CABERNET SAUCE. The rare meat was tender, the sauce to die for, the fried leeks on top a treat and the confit with caramelized shallots as well was perhaps one of the best veggies around! Paired with a superb 2003 GIGONDAS from Domaine Le Roucas de St. Pierre, there was not a soul at our table that was not in heaven.
A Trio of Cheeses finished off our meal at the table (Pipe Dreams Goat Cheese with Roasted Beets & Squash Syrup, Le Bois Blond with Caramelized Pears, and Epoisse with Sauteed Squash) and this was one of the most fun cheese creations to boot as we watched the intricate assembly of each plate.
After the auction we proceeded to the dessert room (where we had started the evening with wine/champagne and tons of hor's d'oevres as well) where we were shocked to see dozens of cakes and pastries at the buffet. I tasted one or two, but resisted for the most part!
Thanks to all the chefs and attendees as well!
Jeff Buben (Vidalia/Bistro Bis)
Katsuya Fukushima (Cafe Atlantico)
Todd Gray (Equinox/Market Salamander)
Greggory Hill (David Greggory)
Ris Lacoste (keep your eyes open in 2007 for her new location)
Enzo Livia (Spezie/Ill Pizzico)
Matt Morrison(The Grill-Ritz Carlton, Pentagon City)
Kaz Okochi (Kaz Sushi Bistro)
Bryan Voltaggio (Charlie Palmer Steak)
Santi Zabaleta (Taberna del Alabardero)
Jim Swenson (The National Press Club)
Host Sue Palka of local Fox News roamed the room with a mike to chat with diners and each chef so we all knew what was going on at each table. We drooled as we listened to all the menus, but we were thrilled with our menu as well. All of the generous chefs (listed below) not only cooked and served, but then auctioned themselves off to make thousands of extra dollars for the fund which keeps Phillip's education and treatment for autism continuing. On a personal note, it was even more satisfying since our son SAMUEL often has playdates with Phillip and we, as friends, can see his development and improvement. Just last week, he constructed his first sentence, "Mommy, I need you!" which had us all in tears. In the future the Foundation will have additional events and I can't urge you all enough to support this important cause.
Back to dinner which started with an amuse of CHESTNUT SOUP with Shallots & Foie Gras & Black Truffle Essence. We all sucked strongly on the straws in the shot glasses of superb creamy rich soup-my favorite kind on earth!
The fish course was a beautiful pink PAN SEARED ALASKAN KING SALMON on a GRUYERE Cheese POTATO CAKE with a POACHED QUAIL EGG & CAVIAR carefully poised on top all sitting in a SABAYON Sauce. It was simply delicious and paired to perfection with a CHATEAU GRAVILLE LACOSTE 2004 Graves from Bordeaux.
The meal continued as we eagerly watch Chef Robert sear the meat and as smoke bellowed from the pans (I was actually worried about the fire alarms!) and he prepared the ROASTED LOIN of VENISON with CONFIT of BRUSSEL SPROUTS in a SHALLOT CABERNET SAUCE. The rare meat was tender, the sauce to die for, the fried leeks on top a treat and the confit with caramelized shallots as well was perhaps one of the best veggies around! Paired with a superb 2003 GIGONDAS from Domaine Le Roucas de St. Pierre, there was not a soul at our table that was not in heaven.
A Trio of Cheeses finished off our meal at the table (Pipe Dreams Goat Cheese with Roasted Beets & Squash Syrup, Le Bois Blond with Caramelized Pears, and Epoisse with Sauteed Squash) and this was one of the most fun cheese creations to boot as we watched the intricate assembly of each plate.
After the auction we proceeded to the dessert room (where we had started the evening with wine/champagne and tons of hor's d'oevres as well) where we were shocked to see dozens of cakes and pastries at the buffet. I tasted one or two, but resisted for the most part!
Thanks to all the chefs and attendees as well!
Jeff Buben (Vidalia/Bistro Bis)
Katsuya Fukushima (Cafe Atlantico)
Todd Gray (Equinox/Market Salamander)
Greggory Hill (David Greggory)
Ris Lacoste (keep your eyes open in 2007 for her new location)
Enzo Livia (Spezie/Ill Pizzico)
Matt Morrison(The Grill-Ritz Carlton, Pentagon City)
Kaz Okochi (Kaz Sushi Bistro)
Bryan Voltaggio (Charlie Palmer Steak)
Santi Zabaleta (Taberna del Alabardero)
Jim Swenson (The National Press Club)
Saturday, November 04, 2006
EQUINOX is unequaled
Last night we returned to EQUINOX (818 Conn Ave, NW -www.equinoxrestaurant.com) after a way too long absence and were happy to see some gorgeous new warm decor of a patchwork goldish faux finishing and new metallic artwork as well that complements the room beautifully. Of course, one does not usually dine out for the decor and Chef TOOD GRAY has adjusted the menu to a wide variety of foods and choices and dining options from ala carte to tastings making for a great time for all.
We started with a short glass of bubbly and a gorgeous presentation of three amuses on a glass sectioned plate: A delicious plump Kushi (West Coast) Oyster with Apple Mignonette, A shot of CREAM OF TURNIP Soup with Toasted Almonds and a creamy Fried PARMESAN RISOTTO Ball in Aioli. Our first bottle of wine was a OLIVIER LEFLAIVE CHABLIS 2004 "Les Deux Rives," and while I'm not usually a big fan of Chablis, our server recommended this excellent wine as an aperitif which seemed to go with just everything. It was super with the BUTTERNUT SQUASH SOUP with Sausage, a seasonal treat, with the SEARED HUDSON VALLEY FOIE GRAS with Red Swiss Chard, Toasted Pine Nuts and Apple Cider Gastrique (if a bit on the rare side), the always excellent salads-here a SALAD or OVALI & ROYAL TRUMPET MUSHROOMS, Mache, Italian Hazelnuts and Black Truffle Dressing. The ingredients just don't get more farm fresh and ingenious than this, even in the salad country of California!
My SAFFRON TAGLIATELLE with BRAISED CUTTLEFISH, Red Wine & Spring Onion was a tribute of how well Chef Gray does pasta (he has always excelled indeed, having worked so long at Galileo!).
A second between course amuse of Cold RARE TUNA, QUAIL EGG and Mayo was a nice treat, but I missed much of the description. We moved on to an excellent Zin blend with the always wonderful PARADUXX 2003 from DUCKHORN Vineyards, which was big yet smooth enough for the delicacies of our entrees.
One of the pricey items on the menu is the GNOCCHI of JERUSALEM ARTICHOKES with WHITE TRUFFLES from ALBA, Traditional Fonduta, Baby Spinach & Truffle Jus. The chef himself comes out to shave the fresh extravagant truffles over the dish, and while it was superb, it has been so long since I enjoyed white truffles, I could not help feeling that their flavor is perhaps a bit less intense this season? Or am I getting older and jaded, and remember those bargain White Truffle Dinners of years past at Galileo!
The entrees were superstars with us all from the GRILLED TENDERLOIN of VEAL with CRISPY SWEETBREADS, Potato Rosti, Braised Local Cabbage & Porcini Mushroom Cream; rich, tasty and everything one could ask for a chilly autumn evening. The superb PAN SEARED BREAST of WILD SCOTTISH PHEASANT with Creamed Chestnut Puree, Braised Leeks & Banyuls Reduction was no less impressive, and also just right for the season; I could eat it again tonight!
We rested before dessert and decided to share two delicious and not overdose items from Pastry Chef MEGAN SEWARD: WARM APPLE-CURRANT SPRING ROLL with Rice Pudding & Chestnut Frozen Yogurt with Caramel & Lemon-Poppy Gastrique was a terrific combination of new tastes and ideas, and the more seasonal traditional PUMPKIN CREME BRULEE with Pirouette Cookie, Cardamom Cream & Gingerbread Croutons, still a change on the standard and a perfectly constructed brulee to boot.
It was hard not to enjoy a small glass of BRACHETTO Sparkling sweet red with the yummy mignardises of COCOA NIB ESPRESSO BISCOTTI, White CHOCOLATE STRAWBERRY ALMOND Truffles and Tasty RASPBERRY GELEES. It was a truly happy return to a truly wonderful restaurant.
We started with a short glass of bubbly and a gorgeous presentation of three amuses on a glass sectioned plate: A delicious plump Kushi (West Coast) Oyster with Apple Mignonette, A shot of CREAM OF TURNIP Soup with Toasted Almonds and a creamy Fried PARMESAN RISOTTO Ball in Aioli. Our first bottle of wine was a OLIVIER LEFLAIVE CHABLIS 2004 "Les Deux Rives," and while I'm not usually a big fan of Chablis, our server recommended this excellent wine as an aperitif which seemed to go with just everything. It was super with the BUTTERNUT SQUASH SOUP with Sausage, a seasonal treat, with the SEARED HUDSON VALLEY FOIE GRAS with Red Swiss Chard, Toasted Pine Nuts and Apple Cider Gastrique (if a bit on the rare side), the always excellent salads-here a SALAD or OVALI & ROYAL TRUMPET MUSHROOMS, Mache, Italian Hazelnuts and Black Truffle Dressing. The ingredients just don't get more farm fresh and ingenious than this, even in the salad country of California!
My SAFFRON TAGLIATELLE with BRAISED CUTTLEFISH, Red Wine & Spring Onion was a tribute of how well Chef Gray does pasta (he has always excelled indeed, having worked so long at Galileo!).
A second between course amuse of Cold RARE TUNA, QUAIL EGG and Mayo was a nice treat, but I missed much of the description. We moved on to an excellent Zin blend with the always wonderful PARADUXX 2003 from DUCKHORN Vineyards, which was big yet smooth enough for the delicacies of our entrees.
One of the pricey items on the menu is the GNOCCHI of JERUSALEM ARTICHOKES with WHITE TRUFFLES from ALBA, Traditional Fonduta, Baby Spinach & Truffle Jus. The chef himself comes out to shave the fresh extravagant truffles over the dish, and while it was superb, it has been so long since I enjoyed white truffles, I could not help feeling that their flavor is perhaps a bit less intense this season? Or am I getting older and jaded, and remember those bargain White Truffle Dinners of years past at Galileo!
The entrees were superstars with us all from the GRILLED TENDERLOIN of VEAL with CRISPY SWEETBREADS, Potato Rosti, Braised Local Cabbage & Porcini Mushroom Cream; rich, tasty and everything one could ask for a chilly autumn evening. The superb PAN SEARED BREAST of WILD SCOTTISH PHEASANT with Creamed Chestnut Puree, Braised Leeks & Banyuls Reduction was no less impressive, and also just right for the season; I could eat it again tonight!
We rested before dessert and decided to share two delicious and not overdose items from Pastry Chef MEGAN SEWARD: WARM APPLE-CURRANT SPRING ROLL with Rice Pudding & Chestnut Frozen Yogurt with Caramel & Lemon-Poppy Gastrique was a terrific combination of new tastes and ideas, and the more seasonal traditional PUMPKIN CREME BRULEE with Pirouette Cookie, Cardamom Cream & Gingerbread Croutons, still a change on the standard and a perfectly constructed brulee to boot.
It was hard not to enjoy a small glass of BRACHETTO Sparkling sweet red with the yummy mignardises of COCOA NIB ESPRESSO BISCOTTI, White CHOCOLATE STRAWBERRY ALMOND Truffles and Tasty RASPBERRY GELEES. It was a truly happy return to a truly wonderful restaurant.
Sunday, October 29, 2006
X/O in Chicago has exes and OHS!
Last night was fine dining night here in Chicago with our friends and we headed to X/O just north of downtown (3441 N. Halstead www.xorestaurant.com) and while we had a most enjoyable time, there were a couple of flaws that did not make our evening as perfect as we had wanted. Our server was most helpful in explaining the menu with its basic choice of three courses plus dessert (all a la carte) as we ordered a bottle of MARCEL DEISS "Bergheim" PINOT GRIS 1998 from Alsace. While Will thought it a bit sweet, this wonderful terroir-driven wine is full of tasty fruit and pairs perfectly with some of the very spicy dishes (also would be great with foie gras; see later remarks).
The smallish wooden tables have a plastic mesh insert that manages to catch all the crumbs and pieces of food which is dumb, but our server explained they are redoing them all very soon. The wooden chairs are reasonably comfortable and the room has a nice ambiance if a bit too heavy on the volume for the music. While no amuses came, there was plenty of excellent focaccia with a choice from the superb PESTO CHERRY TOMATO, Rosemary, Parsley, SeaSalt & Grapes, and Fennel with Golden Raisins. Luckily, we were only offered once chance to pick two or we would have really filled up on this treat.
Our first courses were all truly excellent. The Pinot Gris was sheer perfection with my SPICY ROCK SHRIMP & RICE NOODLE SALAD with Chili Lime Vinaigrette, Seaweed Salad, Green Onions, Carrots and Toasted Pinenuts, with the accent on SPICY! Another treat was the tender GRILLED OCTOPUS SALAD marinated in Lemon, Garlic, Olive Oil, Oregano and served simply chilled and tasty.
We moved on to an almost wimpy bodied Oregon Pinot Noir from MAYSARA "Jamsheed Vineyard" 2004 which is a wine that offers little forward fruit or excitement. For our final red we asked for a bit of punch and got it with a superb BODEGAS ESTEFANA "Tilenus" CRIANZA 2001 from Bierzo that really warmed our insides and was truly satisfying.
The middle course featured a HOUSEMADE RAVIOLI stuffed with BRAISED RABBIT, Ricotta & Swiss Chard in a TRUFFLE Jus topped with Gremolata and Pine Nuts, the spicy plump PRINCE EDWARD ISLAND MUSSELS Steamed with Lemon Grass, Garlic, Ginger, Shallots, White Wine, Diced Tomato & Cilantro. Again, some spice entered into my yummy GARDEN FRESH (and they were) WAX & FRENCH BEANS Stir-Fried with Thai Chilies, Peanuts & Water Chestnuts. Oddly enough, the menu featured FOIE GRAS, which has been banned in the city of Chicago. Our server explained that the management of X/O has decided to ignore the ban, and has NOT been fined at all at this point. Bravo to Chef Aaron Bischoff and his staff!
The downpoint of the night was when the entrees arrived at lukewarm to cold temperatures. Will sent back his delicious GRILLED PORK TENDERLOIN with Red Thai Coconut Curry, Pineapple & Green Onions as it was literally below room temperature. A replacement arrived soon, and we were NOT even charged for the dish; this was welcome treatment, but did no improve the other three dishes that came lukewarm to tepid, even though they were all delicious:
CAJUN-STYLE Organic Free Range CHICKEN BREAST ROULADE with Crawfish Rice Stuffing and Braised Collard Greens (braised in Ham Hocks), Tomato Roux & Lobster Veloute was a southern style treat. An excellent tender GRILLED 10 oz. NY STRIP STEAK with Blue Cheese Potato Gratin & Rosemary-Horseradish Veal Sauce was definitely tops, and the blue cheese mild enough to not be imposing. Roasted RACK of LAMB with Fresh Herb-Lemon Felafel Cake & Cabernet-Currant reduction does not do too well when chilly, but was another wonderful preparation, despite the slightly dry felafel cake.
We opted to all four share one dessert- CHOCOLATE ORGASM which was easily sharable with its delicious COCONUT CHOCOLATE TRUFFLES, slightly dry Chocolate Madeleines Cookies, White Chocolate Panna Cotta, Chocolate Ice Cream in Crunch and the tastiest BEIGNETS in Chocolate Sauce.
Would I return to X/O? Probably, yes, but I would demand the dishes come warm. The excellent service and perfect spacing of the evening's dishes made for a truly enjoyable time with good friends!
The smallish wooden tables have a plastic mesh insert that manages to catch all the crumbs and pieces of food which is dumb, but our server explained they are redoing them all very soon. The wooden chairs are reasonably comfortable and the room has a nice ambiance if a bit too heavy on the volume for the music. While no amuses came, there was plenty of excellent focaccia with a choice from the superb PESTO CHERRY TOMATO, Rosemary, Parsley, SeaSalt & Grapes, and Fennel with Golden Raisins. Luckily, we were only offered once chance to pick two or we would have really filled up on this treat.
Our first courses were all truly excellent. The Pinot Gris was sheer perfection with my SPICY ROCK SHRIMP & RICE NOODLE SALAD with Chili Lime Vinaigrette, Seaweed Salad, Green Onions, Carrots and Toasted Pinenuts, with the accent on SPICY! Another treat was the tender GRILLED OCTOPUS SALAD marinated in Lemon, Garlic, Olive Oil, Oregano and served simply chilled and tasty.
We moved on to an almost wimpy bodied Oregon Pinot Noir from MAYSARA "Jamsheed Vineyard" 2004 which is a wine that offers little forward fruit or excitement. For our final red we asked for a bit of punch and got it with a superb BODEGAS ESTEFANA "Tilenus" CRIANZA 2001 from Bierzo that really warmed our insides and was truly satisfying.
The middle course featured a HOUSEMADE RAVIOLI stuffed with BRAISED RABBIT, Ricotta & Swiss Chard in a TRUFFLE Jus topped with Gremolata and Pine Nuts, the spicy plump PRINCE EDWARD ISLAND MUSSELS Steamed with Lemon Grass, Garlic, Ginger, Shallots, White Wine, Diced Tomato & Cilantro. Again, some spice entered into my yummy GARDEN FRESH (and they were) WAX & FRENCH BEANS Stir-Fried with Thai Chilies, Peanuts & Water Chestnuts. Oddly enough, the menu featured FOIE GRAS, which has been banned in the city of Chicago. Our server explained that the management of X/O has decided to ignore the ban, and has NOT been fined at all at this point. Bravo to Chef Aaron Bischoff and his staff!
The downpoint of the night was when the entrees arrived at lukewarm to cold temperatures. Will sent back his delicious GRILLED PORK TENDERLOIN with Red Thai Coconut Curry, Pineapple & Green Onions as it was literally below room temperature. A replacement arrived soon, and we were NOT even charged for the dish; this was welcome treatment, but did no improve the other three dishes that came lukewarm to tepid, even though they were all delicious:
CAJUN-STYLE Organic Free Range CHICKEN BREAST ROULADE with Crawfish Rice Stuffing and Braised Collard Greens (braised in Ham Hocks), Tomato Roux & Lobster Veloute was a southern style treat. An excellent tender GRILLED 10 oz. NY STRIP STEAK with Blue Cheese Potato Gratin & Rosemary-Horseradish Veal Sauce was definitely tops, and the blue cheese mild enough to not be imposing. Roasted RACK of LAMB with Fresh Herb-Lemon Felafel Cake & Cabernet-Currant reduction does not do too well when chilly, but was another wonderful preparation, despite the slightly dry felafel cake.
We opted to all four share one dessert- CHOCOLATE ORGASM which was easily sharable with its delicious COCONUT CHOCOLATE TRUFFLES, slightly dry Chocolate Madeleines Cookies, White Chocolate Panna Cotta, Chocolate Ice Cream in Crunch and the tastiest BEIGNETS in Chocolate Sauce.
Would I return to X/O? Probably, yes, but I would demand the dishes come warm. The excellent service and perfect spacing of the evening's dishes made for a truly enjoyable time with good friends!
Saturday, October 28, 2006
for value Vietnamese in Chicago try TANK
Yesterday after visiting a local Halloween fair here in Chicago with Samuel and his friend Joel, we all were a bit chilled from the brisk winds, so we decided to take ourselves to TANK (in Vietnamese it called Pho Xe Tang, at 4953-55 North Halstead) several miles north of downtown where our friends live.
Tank was jammed, mostly with Asians, and they all were devouring these bowls of soup with noodles, which looked awfully good to us chilly folks. While the kids munched on STIRFRIED EGG NOODLES (available crispy or soft) with CHICKEN & MIXED VEGETABLES (Sam loved the noodles and chicken, while Joel claimed it to be a bit spicy, which it indeed was), we all ordered the giant bowls (Pho) with various ingredients. I opted for the VIETNAMESE BEEF NOODLE SOUP with SLICED BEEF, WELL DONE BRISKET and SOFT TENDON. The guys at the next table warned me that the ingredients were for the adventurous, so I chose carefully. Indeed, the soups come from one huge pot and when they ladled mine into my bowl in the kitchen some of the BIBLE TRIPE also made its way in. The tripe was almost cabbage-like with little bumps on it resembling a very soft squid. The soft tendons were a beef cartilige that was slightly chewy, about the consistency of a soft gummy bear and was quite tasty. The meats and noodles were excellent and the broth warming to our cold insides. A plate of BEAN SPROUTS, Cilantro, Basil, Jalapeno Slices and Lime Wedge accompanies each PHO bowl for seasoning and made for quite an amazing and filling meal at $6.95!
If you do get to TANK, be sure to save room for a wonderful FRUIT SMOOTHIE. Samuel, Will and I shared the STRAWBERRY,BANANA, COCONUT (you can mix any of a dozen or so fruits) which came with slices of mango and strawberry on top and was also quite large and filling. More on dining with kids in Chicago later...
Tank was jammed, mostly with Asians, and they all were devouring these bowls of soup with noodles, which looked awfully good to us chilly folks. While the kids munched on STIRFRIED EGG NOODLES (available crispy or soft) with CHICKEN & MIXED VEGETABLES (Sam loved the noodles and chicken, while Joel claimed it to be a bit spicy, which it indeed was), we all ordered the giant bowls (Pho) with various ingredients. I opted for the VIETNAMESE BEEF NOODLE SOUP with SLICED BEEF, WELL DONE BRISKET and SOFT TENDON. The guys at the next table warned me that the ingredients were for the adventurous, so I chose carefully. Indeed, the soups come from one huge pot and when they ladled mine into my bowl in the kitchen some of the BIBLE TRIPE also made its way in. The tripe was almost cabbage-like with little bumps on it resembling a very soft squid. The soft tendons were a beef cartilige that was slightly chewy, about the consistency of a soft gummy bear and was quite tasty. The meats and noodles were excellent and the broth warming to our cold insides. A plate of BEAN SPROUTS, Cilantro, Basil, Jalapeno Slices and Lime Wedge accompanies each PHO bowl for seasoning and made for quite an amazing and filling meal at $6.95!
If you do get to TANK, be sure to save room for a wonderful FRUIT SMOOTHIE. Samuel, Will and I shared the STRAWBERRY,BANANA, COCONUT (you can mix any of a dozen or so fruits) which came with slices of mango and strawberry on top and was also quite large and filling. More on dining with kids in Chicago later...
Friday, October 27, 2006
BRASSERIE JO is the place to go in Chicago
Last night I had to dine early before those silly 730pm opera curtains, so I chose BRASSERIE JO (www.brasseriejo.com 59 W Hubbard), the Alsatian bistro of Chef Jean Joho, who reigns over EVEREST, where I dined earlier this year in Chicago. It was just a block or two from our hotel, so I was happy and hungry when I showed up as the weather was turning chilly to boot.
The wonderfully cheery staff set me up at a streetview table in the very tall room with its hints of Art deco decor. I enjoyed the plate of carrot sticks in an intensely mustardy slaw-like sauce, and realized that I was back in the real Alsatian cuisine I so adored several years ago. My server, Andy, brought over the list of specials and I was hooked in two seconds on the TARTE FLAMBEE ALSACIEN (literally a thin crust Alsatian-style pizza) with DUCK CONFIT, ROASTED PUMPKIN, MUSTARD AIOLI, Onions and Herbs. I sipped a yummy glass of GUSTAVE LORENZ 2004 Pinot Gris Reserve from Alsace of course! The tarte arrived and I was in heaven, but was afraid I could not eat an entire entree because it was huge (they are prices at $7-9!!).
Restaurant Manager David Johnston came over to welcome me and proffered TWO small plates of SAUCISSONS en CROUTE with tasty sausage in a brioche croute over a yummy mustard sauce and lentils. By now I was drinking KLIPFEL RIESLING 2004 which was very dry and indeed tart with apples with lots of fruit at the back of the tongue. It worked wonderfully with all the mustard flavors, as they are so tart as well.
After long consultation with Andy I chose the STEAK TARTARE with POMMES FRITES. The 6 ounces of gorgeous meat came with an intense spicy and mustard flavor (Alsace, again) on plate resting on a bed of ice to keep the meat cool. The frites were thin and crispy, not a soggy one in the bunch. I enjoyed this with a glass of KALI HEART 2004 PINOT NOIR from MONTEREY Valley, California that exhibited a bit of spice to work in harmony with the tartare!
Dessert was tough, so I passed by the Pumpkin Creme Brulee, Poires Belle Helene, World Renowned Profiteroles with Chocolate Sauce (which appeared to be almost 8 inches tall at the next table served with a 1/2 quart of sauce!) and the Iles Flottants, and took instead a CUPPA JO, literally, as the coffee comes in cups marked "Brasserie Jo."
I will, however, get the chance to report on more and to have dessert, as I have convinced everyone here with us in Chicago to go back again tomorrow night!
The wonderfully cheery staff set me up at a streetview table in the very tall room with its hints of Art deco decor. I enjoyed the plate of carrot sticks in an intensely mustardy slaw-like sauce, and realized that I was back in the real Alsatian cuisine I so adored several years ago. My server, Andy, brought over the list of specials and I was hooked in two seconds on the TARTE FLAMBEE ALSACIEN (literally a thin crust Alsatian-style pizza) with DUCK CONFIT, ROASTED PUMPKIN, MUSTARD AIOLI, Onions and Herbs. I sipped a yummy glass of GUSTAVE LORENZ 2004 Pinot Gris Reserve from Alsace of course! The tarte arrived and I was in heaven, but was afraid I could not eat an entire entree because it was huge (they are prices at $7-9!!).
Restaurant Manager David Johnston came over to welcome me and proffered TWO small plates of SAUCISSONS en CROUTE with tasty sausage in a brioche croute over a yummy mustard sauce and lentils. By now I was drinking KLIPFEL RIESLING 2004 which was very dry and indeed tart with apples with lots of fruit at the back of the tongue. It worked wonderfully with all the mustard flavors, as they are so tart as well.
After long consultation with Andy I chose the STEAK TARTARE with POMMES FRITES. The 6 ounces of gorgeous meat came with an intense spicy and mustard flavor (Alsace, again) on plate resting on a bed of ice to keep the meat cool. The frites were thin and crispy, not a soggy one in the bunch. I enjoyed this with a glass of KALI HEART 2004 PINOT NOIR from MONTEREY Valley, California that exhibited a bit of spice to work in harmony with the tartare!
Dessert was tough, so I passed by the Pumpkin Creme Brulee, Poires Belle Helene, World Renowned Profiteroles with Chocolate Sauce (which appeared to be almost 8 inches tall at the next table served with a 1/2 quart of sauce!) and the Iles Flottants, and took instead a CUPPA JO, literally, as the coffee comes in cups marked "Brasserie Jo."
I will, however, get the chance to report on more and to have dessert, as I have convinced everyone here with us in Chicago to go back again tomorrow night!
Wednesday, October 25, 2006
all about BAR PILAR (the up & coming 14th St corridor)
Last night after we took in a cabaret by the IN SERIES at the SOURCE THEATRE we decided to stop next door for a bite to eat at the new BAR PILAR (1833 14th St, NW -http://www.barpilar.com/location.html) and were pleasantly surprised ad the congeniality of this bar with tapas run by the folks who own Cafe Saint-Ex just at the corner.
The menu is simple and posted on the chalk board and features umpteen tapas dishes ranging from $4-7. There are so many different options and each portion is perhaps slightly larger than an appetizer size (especially the fish and meat dishes). I tried the excellent rich smooth WHITE SEET POTATO SOUP with HERBED GOAT CHEESE and opted to add the raw oyster for an extra $1.00! A tasty warm BEET SALAD came with LEMON & CILANTRO and was very filling. Other dishes at the table included the TUNA with TURNIP HASH which was a very delicious addition to the superb fish, but Chef Barton Seaver excels with his WALLA with JALAPENO CRUST, which is not spicy at all, but quite rich and truly an excellent fish.
The wine list is varied and inventive and we opted for a MOVIA 2003 SAUVIGNON BLANC from Slovenia that was a tasty slightly citrusy, but also very full bodied wine. You may recall I had some Movia wines in LA recently, and this is a winery and wine region to keep your eyes on! If Cafe Saint-Ex is full, or you have a yen for tapas, try BAR PILAR and you will be very happy when you leave as we were!
The menu is simple and posted on the chalk board and features umpteen tapas dishes ranging from $4-7. There are so many different options and each portion is perhaps slightly larger than an appetizer size (especially the fish and meat dishes). I tried the excellent rich smooth WHITE SEET POTATO SOUP with HERBED GOAT CHEESE and opted to add the raw oyster for an extra $1.00! A tasty warm BEET SALAD came with LEMON & CILANTRO and was very filling. Other dishes at the table included the TUNA with TURNIP HASH which was a very delicious addition to the superb fish, but Chef Barton Seaver excels with his WALLA with JALAPENO CRUST, which is not spicy at all, but quite rich and truly an excellent fish.
The wine list is varied and inventive and we opted for a MOVIA 2003 SAUVIGNON BLANC from Slovenia that was a tasty slightly citrusy, but also very full bodied wine. You may recall I had some Movia wines in LA recently, and this is a winery and wine region to keep your eyes on! If Cafe Saint-Ex is full, or you have a yen for tapas, try BAR PILAR and you will be very happy when you leave as we were!
Tuesday, October 17, 2006
ACADIANA has it all
Last week, a large group of us sashayed down to ACADIANA (www.acadianarestautant.com) across from the new Convention Center which has now been open for just over a year. This was not our first visit, but in one year, Acadiana has improved from great to excellent, and we all enjoyed virtually ever bite and sip and moment. We started the evening with "J" Sparkling Brut from Sonoma and some came those wondrous warm Southern biscuits accompanied by Jalapeno Jelly & Cream Cheese Mix that just melts as you spread it on the hot bread- a heavenly start.
Our first white was a clean, tasty COTES du RHONE BLANC Chasse du Pape 2003 that worked well with our two amuses: A Lagniappe or CRABMEAT SARDOU with creamed spinach on the bottom, a huge lump of crabmeat and an intense-lemony cream hollandaise on top that matched the citrus of the wine to a tee. A DEEP FRIED OYSTER on CRAWFISH MAQUE CHOUX with CHoux Pea Caviar came next and the oyster was fried to perfection with the creamed corn, tomato, red onion mixture below and a smattering of the American Bowfish Caviar on top for a bit of flavor.
It is extremely hard to choose dishes at Acadiana, so I opted for the TRIO OF SOUPS allowing me to taste all three on the menu. The SMOKED CHICKEN & ANDOUILLE SAUSAGE was the spiciest, the ROASTED SWEET CORN & BLUE CRAB SOUP was the creamiest, but the CLASSIC TURTLE with Dry Sherry was the tops with a slight spiciness and tons of intense flavor. Around the table we heard raves about the FRIED GREEN TOMATOES, signature TRIO of DEVILED EGGS, CHARBROILED OYSTERS, FOIE GRAS with Mayhaw Jelly that was so simple and perfect it was masterful, and the DUO of "PIES" featuring Natchitoches Meat Pie with Black Pepper Buttermilk Dipping Sauce and the LOUISIANA CRAWFISH PIES. This latter dish is so huge with three humongous fried pies that one must ask for a doggie bag or share them.
We brought some wines from home and opened a magnum of MARKHAM 1994 MERLOT from NAPA that was still drinking smoothly, but the magnum of MINER CLUB M ZINFANDEL 2001 from Napa was a treat with a slight pepper taste and tons of just smooooooth at 14% alcohol, it was amazing.
The entrees arrived after much camaraderie and schmoozing, and again, I don't recall anyone having a single complaint. Many of us chose the excellent PAN CRISPED ROASTED DUCK recommended by our excellent server Chuck. It sat on a bed of DIRTY RICE & COLLARD GREENS with Bacon in a Cane Syrup Pepper Jelly Glaze that was perfect and not spicy at all. Each portion was a half a duck and we had lots of doggie bags (Sam adored the leftovers!). The signature CRAWFISH ETOUFEE and award winning (USA Today top 25 dishes) New Orleans BARBEQUE STYLE SHRIMP were also hits. I always adore the "GRILLADES & GRITS" which are veal medallions on Creamy Japaleno Grits with Wild Mushroom Pan Gravy. The crabcakes and filets also disappeared from all the plates. We ordered several side dishes to share, but I think many of us ignored the JAMBALAYA RISOTTO, JALAPENO CHEESE GRITS and CREOLE CREAMED SPINACH.
Desserts again became a difficult choice as Pastry Chef DAVID GUAS menu was presented. I went wild over the PEANUT BUTTER CREME BRULEE, tasted the superb WARM BITTERSWEET CHOCOLATE BREAD PUDDING and the BOURBON PECAN & CHOCOLATE CHIP Tart. The BEIGNETS were vastly improved over our previous visit, even the sorbet was superb. We sipped (we brought it) a decent DOMAINE CASTERA 2000 Cuvee Privelege Jurancon from France that actually had 14% alcohol as well, but was quite mild in the sweetness factor, and then munched of those superb mignardises from Chef Guas that always come at the end of any meal at Acadiana or its sister restaurants DC Coast, Ten Penh or Ceiba. They included STRAWBERRY TAFFY, HEAVENLY HASH, Pate a FRUIT and the mandatory PRALINES (Sam loved these as well the next day!). If you can't get to Louisiana, it's nice to know that its food is well done here in DC at Acadiana!
Our first white was a clean, tasty COTES du RHONE BLANC Chasse du Pape 2003 that worked well with our two amuses: A Lagniappe or CRABMEAT SARDOU with creamed spinach on the bottom, a huge lump of crabmeat and an intense-lemony cream hollandaise on top that matched the citrus of the wine to a tee. A DEEP FRIED OYSTER on CRAWFISH MAQUE CHOUX with CHoux Pea Caviar came next and the oyster was fried to perfection with the creamed corn, tomato, red onion mixture below and a smattering of the American Bowfish Caviar on top for a bit of flavor.
It is extremely hard to choose dishes at Acadiana, so I opted for the TRIO OF SOUPS allowing me to taste all three on the menu. The SMOKED CHICKEN & ANDOUILLE SAUSAGE was the spiciest, the ROASTED SWEET CORN & BLUE CRAB SOUP was the creamiest, but the CLASSIC TURTLE with Dry Sherry was the tops with a slight spiciness and tons of intense flavor. Around the table we heard raves about the FRIED GREEN TOMATOES, signature TRIO of DEVILED EGGS, CHARBROILED OYSTERS, FOIE GRAS with Mayhaw Jelly that was so simple and perfect it was masterful, and the DUO of "PIES" featuring Natchitoches Meat Pie with Black Pepper Buttermilk Dipping Sauce and the LOUISIANA CRAWFISH PIES. This latter dish is so huge with three humongous fried pies that one must ask for a doggie bag or share them.
We brought some wines from home and opened a magnum of MARKHAM 1994 MERLOT from NAPA that was still drinking smoothly, but the magnum of MINER CLUB M ZINFANDEL 2001 from Napa was a treat with a slight pepper taste and tons of just smooooooth at 14% alcohol, it was amazing.
The entrees arrived after much camaraderie and schmoozing, and again, I don't recall anyone having a single complaint. Many of us chose the excellent PAN CRISPED ROASTED DUCK recommended by our excellent server Chuck. It sat on a bed of DIRTY RICE & COLLARD GREENS with Bacon in a Cane Syrup Pepper Jelly Glaze that was perfect and not spicy at all. Each portion was a half a duck and we had lots of doggie bags (Sam adored the leftovers!). The signature CRAWFISH ETOUFEE and award winning (USA Today top 25 dishes) New Orleans BARBEQUE STYLE SHRIMP were also hits. I always adore the "GRILLADES & GRITS" which are veal medallions on Creamy Japaleno Grits with Wild Mushroom Pan Gravy. The crabcakes and filets also disappeared from all the plates. We ordered several side dishes to share, but I think many of us ignored the JAMBALAYA RISOTTO, JALAPENO CHEESE GRITS and CREOLE CREAMED SPINACH.
Desserts again became a difficult choice as Pastry Chef DAVID GUAS menu was presented. I went wild over the PEANUT BUTTER CREME BRULEE, tasted the superb WARM BITTERSWEET CHOCOLATE BREAD PUDDING and the BOURBON PECAN & CHOCOLATE CHIP Tart. The BEIGNETS were vastly improved over our previous visit, even the sorbet was superb. We sipped (we brought it) a decent DOMAINE CASTERA 2000 Cuvee Privelege Jurancon from France that actually had 14% alcohol as well, but was quite mild in the sweetness factor, and then munched of those superb mignardises from Chef Guas that always come at the end of any meal at Acadiana or its sister restaurants DC Coast, Ten Penh or Ceiba. They included STRAWBERRY TAFFY, HEAVENLY HASH, Pate a FRUIT and the mandatory PRALINES (Sam loved these as well the next day!). If you can't get to Louisiana, it's nice to know that its food is well done here in DC at Acadiana!
Sunday, October 15, 2006
an evening at EXTRA VIRGIN in Shirlington (10/15/06)
Last night we finally got back in the swing on things and made it to EXTRA VIRGIN (www.extravirginva.com) in Shirlington (Arlington, VA) where we had wanted to go for some time and it was well worth the short journey, especially since we had theater tickets around the corner! AFter taking the server's white wine recommendation and finding it was sold out (I guess he forgot to check before offering), we made a second choice which was also sold out! Finally a bottle of WHITEHAVEN 2005 SAUVIGNON BLANC from Marlborough in New Zealand was available. This zesty, full of grapefruit wine is a great refresher and paris well with many of the starters as well. The GRILLED PORTOBELLO with Pesto Sauce is a large sauteed mushroom and a sizeable arugula salad and was extremely tasty and flavorful. The FIRE ROASTED SHRIMP are wrapped in PANCETTA, Wood Oven Roasted and served over an Arugola Salad with a Lemon Dressing as well (despite the fact that the menu reads Spinach; I guess it's a result of the e-coli thing!). This was a very large portion of FOUR HUGE shrimp and was a real tasty treat to boot.
I also must not fail to mention the excellent fresh bread which can be eaten with the olive oil on the table mixed with fresh parmesan and fresh cracked pepper served tableside. I could have filled up on this alone! We moved to an excellent red (first choice available) from Sardinia, CANTINA SANTADI Carignano Suleis, Grotta Rossa 2002 that had a bit of acidity typical to Carignane, but was superb with all the dishes we ordered.
The huge SAUTEED SALMON FILET Special was served with small Shrimp over a bed of Lentils making for a filling autumn entree, the TAGLIERINI alla BOLOGNESE is made with a rich meat sauce of veal, beef and pork that was also quite filling. My VEAL RAVIOLI with Fresh Sage was served in a Rich Veal Glace with Sage Butter Sauce that also could not resist mopping up. The only fault was the fact that the VEAL SALTIMBOCCA came out at about room temperature. We didn't have time to have it heated as we were running to the theater, but when four folks are dining together, the kitchen needs to be more cognizant of preparing each course in unison so they all arrive hot at the table.
After some yummy coffee we skipped dessert and ran off to our show. When Signature Theater moves across the street from EXTRA VIRGIN in January, I am sure we will return again!
I also must not fail to mention the excellent fresh bread which can be eaten with the olive oil on the table mixed with fresh parmesan and fresh cracked pepper served tableside. I could have filled up on this alone! We moved to an excellent red (first choice available) from Sardinia, CANTINA SANTADI Carignano Suleis, Grotta Rossa 2002 that had a bit of acidity typical to Carignane, but was superb with all the dishes we ordered.
The huge SAUTEED SALMON FILET Special was served with small Shrimp over a bed of Lentils making for a filling autumn entree, the TAGLIERINI alla BOLOGNESE is made with a rich meat sauce of veal, beef and pork that was also quite filling. My VEAL RAVIOLI with Fresh Sage was served in a Rich Veal Glace with Sage Butter Sauce that also could not resist mopping up. The only fault was the fact that the VEAL SALTIMBOCCA came out at about room temperature. We didn't have time to have it heated as we were running to the theater, but when four folks are dining together, the kitchen needs to be more cognizant of preparing each course in unison so they all arrive hot at the table.
After some yummy coffee we skipped dessert and ran off to our show. When Signature Theater moves across the street from EXTRA VIRGIN in January, I am sure we will return again!
Saturday, October 07, 2006
An Anniversary Celebration-Chef Jason Tepper of LA MICHE makes it great
I know you folks have not drooled for a while as we've been so busy with all the Jewish holidays (eating, then fasting) and running around with the beginning of the theater season as well. A week ago we celebrated our anniversary at the home of our dearest friends Mel & Juan who also celebrate their 31st Anniversary this month! We purchased together (at a charity event last year) the opportunity for Chef JASON TEPPER of LA MICHE in Bethesda to cook a meal in our home along with the excellent wine pairings of Ricky Bellman from PAUL's LIQUORS. It was a truly memorable evening and the food was simply superb! We all gathered and sipped PASCAL DOUQUET PREMIER CRU ROSE CHAMPAGNE and munched on FOIE GRAS CANAPES, SHRIMP CANAPES and the most exquisite BABY NEW ZEALAND LAMBSICLES!
At the elegantly set table we first sipped VIN d'ALSACE CUVEE EMILE RESERVE PINOT GRIS along with a truly excellent creamy PUMPKIN LOBSTER BISQUE each served in a miniature pumpkin that was simply adorable. It was one of the best Lobster Bisques I have had in years!
The fish was an ALASKAN HALIBUT with ARTICHOKES, CRABMEAT, CAPER LEMON BUTTER SAUCE and was served with two superb wines: an EDMOND ALPHONSE MELLOT SANCERRE that I thought was perfect with the fish, and a bigger REX HILLS DUNDEE HILLS PINOT NOIR from Oregon that we tended to enjoy between courses and again with the meat entree.
The meat entree was a tour de force VEAL CHOP stuffed with SWISS CHARD, MISSION FIGS, FETA CHEESE & PINE NUTS. Need I say more? This dish is a variation of one on the menu at La Miche, so you too can enjoy these dishes in house in Bethesda! It was served with a SAINT AUBIN PREMIER CRU, but many of us opted to drink the excellent Pinot Noir and then continue with the Saint Aubin afterwards.
Dessert was PEACH MELBA CAKE with VANILLA ICE CREAM served with a yummy TWO HANDS BRILLIANT DISQUISE MOSCATO......we went home very full and must thank everyone involved for a superb evening of true friendship and great dining!
At the elegantly set table we first sipped VIN d'ALSACE CUVEE EMILE RESERVE PINOT GRIS along with a truly excellent creamy PUMPKIN LOBSTER BISQUE each served in a miniature pumpkin that was simply adorable. It was one of the best Lobster Bisques I have had in years!
The fish was an ALASKAN HALIBUT with ARTICHOKES, CRABMEAT, CAPER LEMON BUTTER SAUCE and was served with two superb wines: an EDMOND ALPHONSE MELLOT SANCERRE that I thought was perfect with the fish, and a bigger REX HILLS DUNDEE HILLS PINOT NOIR from Oregon that we tended to enjoy between courses and again with the meat entree.
The meat entree was a tour de force VEAL CHOP stuffed with SWISS CHARD, MISSION FIGS, FETA CHEESE & PINE NUTS. Need I say more? This dish is a variation of one on the menu at La Miche, so you too can enjoy these dishes in house in Bethesda! It was served with a SAINT AUBIN PREMIER CRU, but many of us opted to drink the excellent Pinot Noir and then continue with the Saint Aubin afterwards.
Dessert was PEACH MELBA CAKE with VANILLA ICE CREAM served with a yummy TWO HANDS BRILLIANT DISQUISE MOSCATO......we went home very full and must thank everyone involved for a superb evening of true friendship and great dining!
Saturday, September 30, 2006
munching in Minnesota-St. Paul's W.A. FROST & CO.
Not that many of you would find yourselves in downtown St. Paul, but if you do, and have time for a wonderful meal, head a mile west of downtown to the beautiful Cathedral Hill neighborhood and dine at the 30+ year old W.A. FROST & CO. (www.wafrost.com)
The Victorian style rooms offer not too comfy chairs, but old worn marble tables, dark tin cielings, huge Oriental rugs, fringed lamps, exposed brick walls and all sorts of paintings (I was seated under a sheepdog with his herd). The servers are helpful and friendly, and I listened to their suggestions--a great idea. I started with an amazing AHI TUNA "Steak Tartar" with homemade Potato Chip, toasted brioche Garlic-Mustard Sauce and a truly magnificent HORSERADISH PANNA COTTA. This would be great with good GEFILTE FISH! A glass of Hopler 2004 Gruner Veltliner was a perfect balance to the acidity. Incidentally, this may be Minnesota's most impressive wine list, with 40 wines by the glass, 50+ half bottles and close to 1000 full bottle choices on over 16 pages!
My server saw me writing and sent me a little bowl of the HARVEST PUMPKIN SOUP with NUTMEG Creme Fraiche and Spiced Pecan whcih was rich and creamy and went superbly with the G.V.
I moved onto a red DIEVOLE "Rinascimento" 2003 Sangiovese blend from Chianti that was perfect for almost any meat, but excellent with my ROASTED BREAST of WILD ACRES FARM DUCK (from Minn.) with Duck-Apple Sausage, Chestnut Foie Gras Austum Squash Ragout and Apple Radicchio Risotto over Apple Cider Sauce. It sounds intense and it was huge and wondrous, but a great combination of flavors. The apple in the risotto was not too cooked and had a little crunch which mimicked the crunch of the chestnuts in the ragout. The sausage was perhaps one of the best I have ever had.
Dessert was less of a success with a COMPOSITION of AUTUMN APPLES including a mediocre jelly-like Tarte Tatin, a fun bowl of 5 little Lady Apples in Caramel Sauce and a yummy Apple Fritter with Honey and Whipped Cream Dollops that I left behind and wnet right for the caramel sauce form the lady apples. The coffee was an amazing press pot of FINCA DOS MARIAS Guatemalan Estate Organic--credit that choice to Samuel. I had TWO pots, as I was headed to the opera.
I must also note they have an amazing cheese list with over 15 choices! I might just have to come back!
The Victorian style rooms offer not too comfy chairs, but old worn marble tables, dark tin cielings, huge Oriental rugs, fringed lamps, exposed brick walls and all sorts of paintings (I was seated under a sheepdog with his herd). The servers are helpful and friendly, and I listened to their suggestions--a great idea. I started with an amazing AHI TUNA "Steak Tartar" with homemade Potato Chip, toasted brioche Garlic-Mustard Sauce and a truly magnificent HORSERADISH PANNA COTTA. This would be great with good GEFILTE FISH! A glass of Hopler 2004 Gruner Veltliner was a perfect balance to the acidity. Incidentally, this may be Minnesota's most impressive wine list, with 40 wines by the glass, 50+ half bottles and close to 1000 full bottle choices on over 16 pages!
My server saw me writing and sent me a little bowl of the HARVEST PUMPKIN SOUP with NUTMEG Creme Fraiche and Spiced Pecan whcih was rich and creamy and went superbly with the G.V.
I moved onto a red DIEVOLE "Rinascimento" 2003 Sangiovese blend from Chianti that was perfect for almost any meat, but excellent with my ROASTED BREAST of WILD ACRES FARM DUCK (from Minn.) with Duck-Apple Sausage, Chestnut Foie Gras Austum Squash Ragout and Apple Radicchio Risotto over Apple Cider Sauce. It sounds intense and it was huge and wondrous, but a great combination of flavors. The apple in the risotto was not too cooked and had a little crunch which mimicked the crunch of the chestnuts in the ragout. The sausage was perhaps one of the best I have ever had.
Dessert was less of a success with a COMPOSITION of AUTUMN APPLES including a mediocre jelly-like Tarte Tatin, a fun bowl of 5 little Lady Apples in Caramel Sauce and a yummy Apple Fritter with Honey and Whipped Cream Dollops that I left behind and wnet right for the caramel sauce form the lady apples. The coffee was an amazing press pot of FINCA DOS MARIAS Guatemalan Estate Organic--credit that choice to Samuel. I had TWO pots, as I was headed to the opera.
I must also note they have an amazing cheese list with over 15 choices! I might just have to come back!
Monday, September 25, 2006
an IRON CHEF evening with White House IRON Chef WALTER SCHEIB
Earlier this week we had the pleasure of attending a Reenactment of the IRON CHEF Television show (so to speak) that resulted in past White House Chef WALTER SCHEIB championship. The event was held at the CITY CLUB and was a fun night for all, starting with those wonderful renditions that Chef Scheib is just so GREAT at.
He related the story of how the IRON CHEF AMERICA folks tried to get him to do the show, which he called "Professional Wrestling for Cooks!" Even his children told him it would be so cool. He kept telling them "no way" until public relations got the best of him and he gave in. Off went Chef to Kitchen Stadium, and the show appeared on the Food Network back in July with a victory over Iron Chef Cat Cora. The pre-show preparation and run throughs here in DC took about two to three weeks to get in the swing and to be ready for the final showdown. The team knew that the "secret ingredient" would be either venison, bacon or Dungeness Crab; it was ultimately the latter.
Our evening began with a superb CREMANT ALSACE from Rene Barth that was dry and sparkling and a great way to get us all in a festive mood with some dumplings, mushroom & meat puffs and phyllo with cheese. The actual show ran on a TV, but all we wanted to do was schmooze with the chefs. This was a bit one sided, as Cat Cora could not come, but we still had great fun enjoying the five courses prepared by the excellent team of Chef Scheib.
Sitting down at the table we enjoyed a PINOT GRIGIO 2004 from ROCCA BERNARDA that was so acidic (in a good way) that I was convinced it was a Sauvignon Blanc. It's acidity was perfect with the CHILLED MEDLEY of FRESH STEAMED DUNGENESS CRAB with AVOCADO, TOMATO & LIME. We also had the opportunity to see the special plates and serving utensils that the team had prepared in advance to enhance the presentation. Of course, as only a handful of these exist, and were created at great cost, the
almost 1000 of us had to do with regular china!
The next wine also came from RENE BARTH and was an excellent Alsatian GRAND CRU "Marckrain" 2004 GEWURTZTRAMINER. It was perfect with the best course of the evening: SWEET POTATO SOUP with THAI CURRY and COCONUT MILK, SAUTEED BOK-CHOY Cabbage & THAI GLAZED CRAB LUMPS. The creamy soup was heavenly and the crunchy bok-choy a foil to all the textures within. We stayed with the same wine for the SMOKED DUNGENESS CRAB CAKE over TROPICAL FRUIT FRICASSE with CHIPOTLE CHILI and CORN COULIS as this Gewurtz was so excellent with the mild spices in the food. My only complaint was that the Dungeness Crab is now out of season and in the crabcake it did not show its flavor and taste as well as it could have. I yearned for good ole hometown Chesapeake Crabs here.
The CHEF SALAD with GOLDEN & RED BEETS, ASPARAGUS TIPS, GRLLED VIDALIA ONION, CRAB MEAT & ORANGE CEVICHE DRESSING was paired with a delicious ST VERAN 2004 VIELLES VIGNES from Domaine Bernard-Gousse. The dessert was interesting as Chef Scheib explained, most competitors DON'T DO IT. He did, and went North African style with a SAFFRON & POMEGRANATE BASTILLA with TOASTED ALMONDS in PHYLLO DOUGH. Of course, the dish had crab in it, which some folks thought did not work; I loved it, considering the ingredient was really used and made a quite tasty dessert. The MONARCHIA "Demeter" 2004 TOKAJI Late Harvest Furmint was a special treat and gave the dessert a sweeter hint as well.
What a fun event, and may the competitors win!
He related the story of how the IRON CHEF AMERICA folks tried to get him to do the show, which he called "Professional Wrestling for Cooks!" Even his children told him it would be so cool. He kept telling them "no way" until public relations got the best of him and he gave in. Off went Chef to Kitchen Stadium, and the show appeared on the Food Network back in July with a victory over Iron Chef Cat Cora. The pre-show preparation and run throughs here in DC took about two to three weeks to get in the swing and to be ready for the final showdown. The team knew that the "secret ingredient" would be either venison, bacon or Dungeness Crab; it was ultimately the latter.
Our evening began with a superb CREMANT ALSACE from Rene Barth that was dry and sparkling and a great way to get us all in a festive mood with some dumplings, mushroom & meat puffs and phyllo with cheese. The actual show ran on a TV, but all we wanted to do was schmooze with the chefs. This was a bit one sided, as Cat Cora could not come, but we still had great fun enjoying the five courses prepared by the excellent team of Chef Scheib.
Sitting down at the table we enjoyed a PINOT GRIGIO 2004 from ROCCA BERNARDA that was so acidic (in a good way) that I was convinced it was a Sauvignon Blanc. It's acidity was perfect with the CHILLED MEDLEY of FRESH STEAMED DUNGENESS CRAB with AVOCADO, TOMATO & LIME. We also had the opportunity to see the special plates and serving utensils that the team had prepared in advance to enhance the presentation. Of course, as only a handful of these exist, and were created at great cost, the
almost 1000 of us had to do with regular china!
The next wine also came from RENE BARTH and was an excellent Alsatian GRAND CRU "Marckrain" 2004 GEWURTZTRAMINER. It was perfect with the best course of the evening: SWEET POTATO SOUP with THAI CURRY and COCONUT MILK, SAUTEED BOK-CHOY Cabbage & THAI GLAZED CRAB LUMPS. The creamy soup was heavenly and the crunchy bok-choy a foil to all the textures within. We stayed with the same wine for the SMOKED DUNGENESS CRAB CAKE over TROPICAL FRUIT FRICASSE with CHIPOTLE CHILI and CORN COULIS as this Gewurtz was so excellent with the mild spices in the food. My only complaint was that the Dungeness Crab is now out of season and in the crabcake it did not show its flavor and taste as well as it could have. I yearned for good ole hometown Chesapeake Crabs here.
The CHEF SALAD with GOLDEN & RED BEETS, ASPARAGUS TIPS, GRLLED VIDALIA ONION, CRAB MEAT & ORANGE CEVICHE DRESSING was paired with a delicious ST VERAN 2004 VIELLES VIGNES from Domaine Bernard-Gousse. The dessert was interesting as Chef Scheib explained, most competitors DON'T DO IT. He did, and went North African style with a SAFFRON & POMEGRANATE BASTILLA with TOASTED ALMONDS in PHYLLO DOUGH. Of course, the dish had crab in it, which some folks thought did not work; I loved it, considering the ingredient was really used and made a quite tasty dessert. The MONARCHIA "Demeter" 2004 TOKAJI Late Harvest Furmint was a special treat and gave the dessert a sweeter hint as well.
What a fun event, and may the competitors win!
Thursday, September 21, 2006
pretty nice at NAGE
Nage opened quietly on Scott Circle (www.nage.bz) as a sister to its first incarnation in Rehoboth Beach, and we finally made it there last week after promising to go for ages. It is an unassuming bistro setup in red with booths, a bar in the back with a thankfully quiet flat screen tv. NAGE offers a wonderful three course option nightly and I decided to try that and was quite happy. At $35 it's one of the best deals around every day!
We ordered a delicious bottle of DOMAINE du VIEUX LAZARET Chateauneuf du Pape BLANC 2004 which tells you that the wine list is inventive and novel. There are many wines by the glass as well. Our friendly server Matthew delivered up some yummy homemade BACON BREAD and and olive tapenade that we quickly filled up on.
My appetizer was a huge portion of two 4x4 DUCK CONFIT RAVIOLIs with Mushrooms & Sun Dried Cherry Demi-Glace; it was sublime, and easily could fill you up. I left some of the pasta edging on Matthew's suggestion fearing I would not eat a bite of my entree. Will opted for the LOBSTER CORN DOG which had a magnificent GREEN MANGO & JICAMA SLAW with Tomato Lobster Roe. The thick tempura-style dough was a bit gummy, but the huge chunks of lobster within were moist and tasty. Will kept in the seafood family ordering the CRISPY SOFTSHELL CRABS (will these treats be the last of the season, we always wonder?) with a superb LOBSTER CHILE RELLENO and Roasted Corn Salsa. A glass of HARDY CHARDONNAY 2004 was decent and very reasonably priced at $6, since you can rarely get a glass of wine for $5-6 these days!
My DUCK BREAST with PUMPKINSEED POLENTA in Madeira Reduction was superb. The meat had virtually no fat and was tender as could be, the sauce supreme and the polenta was a chunky texture giving the dish some variety. I had a glass of the GOUGENHEIM MERLOT 2004 from Mendoza Aregntina whcih had an earthy finish that was quite nice, but perhaps a Pinot Noir would have been best.
Will and I split the dessert from my three course menu: BRANDY PAOCHED PEAR with CANDIED WALNUTS, BRANDY SPICE CAKE and Sweetened Ricotta-Goat Cheese Filling. It was quite filling indeed, and was easily enough for two people especially after that huge meal. A glass of nice FERRARI CARRANO ELDORADO Black Muscat sent us home.
If Nage is in your neighborhood, give it a try. If not, it may be worth the visit.
We ordered a delicious bottle of DOMAINE du VIEUX LAZARET Chateauneuf du Pape BLANC 2004 which tells you that the wine list is inventive and novel. There are many wines by the glass as well. Our friendly server Matthew delivered up some yummy homemade BACON BREAD and and olive tapenade that we quickly filled up on.
My appetizer was a huge portion of two 4x4 DUCK CONFIT RAVIOLIs with Mushrooms & Sun Dried Cherry Demi-Glace; it was sublime, and easily could fill you up. I left some of the pasta edging on Matthew's suggestion fearing I would not eat a bite of my entree. Will opted for the LOBSTER CORN DOG which had a magnificent GREEN MANGO & JICAMA SLAW with Tomato Lobster Roe. The thick tempura-style dough was a bit gummy, but the huge chunks of lobster within were moist and tasty. Will kept in the seafood family ordering the CRISPY SOFTSHELL CRABS (will these treats be the last of the season, we always wonder?) with a superb LOBSTER CHILE RELLENO and Roasted Corn Salsa. A glass of HARDY CHARDONNAY 2004 was decent and very reasonably priced at $6, since you can rarely get a glass of wine for $5-6 these days!
My DUCK BREAST with PUMPKINSEED POLENTA in Madeira Reduction was superb. The meat had virtually no fat and was tender as could be, the sauce supreme and the polenta was a chunky texture giving the dish some variety. I had a glass of the GOUGENHEIM MERLOT 2004 from Mendoza Aregntina whcih had an earthy finish that was quite nice, but perhaps a Pinot Noir would have been best.
Will and I split the dessert from my three course menu: BRANDY PAOCHED PEAR with CANDIED WALNUTS, BRANDY SPICE CAKE and Sweetened Ricotta-Goat Cheese Filling. It was quite filling indeed, and was easily enough for two people especially after that huge meal. A glass of nice FERRARI CARRANO ELDORADO Black Muscat sent us home.
If Nage is in your neighborhood, give it a try. If not, it may be worth the visit.
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