Minneapolis' Bucheron may be the best in the Upper Midwest (9-12-25)

We are in St. Paul, MN for a wedding this weekend and had one night free for dinner and chose Bucheron located on the south side of Minneapolis, just across the river. It was a brilliant choice indeed. While Bucheron boasts family ownership by Chef Adam Ritter and his wife Jeanie Janas Ritter, they have assembled a friendly, courteous and helpful team which works in sync and was led at our table by the charming Adriana. They just won the James Beard Award for Best New Restaurant 2025, which is no small feat to beat!

The menu is French/MidWestern using local and in the case of seafood, not so local, ingredients to the best of their capabilities. The menu can be a tad confusing so we let Adriana guide us and she did superbly as we decided on four dishes to share and then Will opted for dessert. The wine list is varied (with prices starting in the 60$ range and going up to the thousand plus!) and Adriana guided us to a super dry French white Grenache Gris "Mas Gabinelle" Vieilles Vignes 2022 from Autignac in Langued'Oc/Roussillon that we later learned from Jeanie was imported by a guy who live locally and actually worked at the winery! When we asked about reds by the half-bottle, Adriana's face lit up and she said the Chateau Haut-Segottes Grand Cru from St. Emillion (right near our home in Bordeaux) 2021 was a fab Merlot/Cabernet Franc blend that we loved.

The setting is a tad crowded, but not awful, although the noise levels are quite high. The room was jammed to the gills on our arrival at 740pm as was the bar seating and outdoor area, not a table was unused. There was some background music which was totally unnecessary. The tables are wood, the chairs and banquettes are leather-like and the walls have little decoration save some modern sconces; it is all about the food.

We started with the Kingfish Crudo with watermelon, Fresno chile, basil and rhubarb salt which had a slight kick from the chile but was simply like buttah! It was so refreshing as it had been a hot and muggy day. Next came Venison Tartare with poached egg yolk, spruce tips and rye chips. The rye chips were fun (think bagel chips/tortilla chips cross) and worked superbly, but the tartare itself was tender and spiced just right not to intrude with the meat's flavor.

Summer Beans was a farm treat that tasted like it was so local made with zucchini, tarbais beans, a rich miso bagna cauda and came with delicious bits of charred octopus and small chunks of pork secreto. We loved it all, but the best had to be the Vadovan Curry Pappardelle with rabbit ragout, peas and carrots, Parmesan and Thai basil.

Will loved his dessert of Corn Cake with grilled Peach, Plum, Caramel Corn and Corn Ice Cream, another local farm treat that resembled a granola cobbler with popcorn!

we had a super time with the super staff and the excellent food and left raving to the team how great it was to find this amazing find.

I have to add that an 18% hospitality charge is already INCLUDED in all the prices, just like in Europe and so many other places, eliminating the need for figuring out how to tip!

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Bordeaux's LA TUPINA is terrific traditional food (9-4-25)

 Our last dinner in Bordeaux before returning stateside was with our friend Hugo at his favorite place in town, LA TUPINA. It is an unassuming space with some outdoor seating, and we worried hearing English spoken at first, but as we moved deeper inside this old old house with cute small rooms and very old wooden tables, it was largely locals enjoying a wonderful evening. We arrived at 8pm and the place was virtually full! We saw dishes going by and marveled at the smells and choices and we were thrilled when the exciting and different menus arrived showing the variety of the traditional local dishes going way back. Hugo mentioned that he had not had Sanguette since his mom made it when he was younger and I decided to give it a go. But first, we consulted with our server, Davide, who had a super sense of humor and went on to choose a Chateau Haut Bertineries Sauvignon Blanc (old vines) from Cite de Blaye just to the north.  It was a great wine with lots of acidity and was ideal with the Sanguette which was a thick crepe made with pork blood in the mix and scattered with pieces of duck neck inside the batter as well. WOW, this was a revelation, and I tried to finish it, but knew we had main courses coming. Hugo adored his gorgeous Foie Gras terrine and Will tried another new dish Calamars façon Pibales, which was calamari cooked in the style of "Elvers" or eels so that they were cut up into pieces and seasoned with garlic, espalette pepper and lemon. It was so flavorful and yummy and again ideal with the wine.

We moved on to a bottle of Frank Phelan 2018 red from Saint-Estephe which we had had some while back at a restaurant and this wine is a huge winner, made by the famous Bordeaux wine house of Phelan Segur, it is their second label and still tastes like a great wine for the way lower price. M=Will chose the Epaule d'Agneau & Mogettes which was a huge casserole of lamb shoulder with haricots blancs (mogettes are white string beans) and I realized that we had made a mistake by each ordering a main course. The Ris de Veau en Croute avec Duxelles de Champignons, Jus de veau arrived for Hugo and me, and there was no way I could eat even 1/2 the portion. It was a perfectly crunchy puff pastry filled with sweetbreads, a mushroom stuffing and veal jus that was divine. We couldn't even take the leftovers home as we were leaving at 630am the next morning!

Hugo was ready for dessert and ordered the Fig Tarte Flambee that was a whole production with vanilla ice cream (checkout the video) and we tasted the luscious treat as well. What a wonderful, fun place to dine and with food so very different from the ordinary, it is just that next time we shall share plates for sure, or just perhaps two appetizers!

who wouldn't like LE LOUP in Bordeaux? (9-3-25)

 Our stay here in Bordeaux for the summer is coming to an end so we returned to one of our favorite bistros downtown, LE LOUP, last night for another super meal.

the menu has changed a tad since we were there a month ago, but it tends to be shared plates changing every now and then with major changes each season. Last night there was a new TEMPURA de Piments de Padron, sauce Mayonnaise. we had the corn fritters last time and these Padron peppers battered and fried were just as yummy. I started with a simple Kir Cassis (white wine and cassis) while Will tried the Spritz Bordelais of Lillet & Cremant de Bordeaux which he loved and was very refreshing.

we ordered a bottle of Cabernet Franc (as the Loire put a stamp on us) AOC Canon Fronsac called Le Bouquet de Lariveau from Chateau Lariveau 2020 and it was super.

Since we were with Sam last time we skipped the GNOCCHIS de Pommer de terre, Bisque de Langoustine but were really happy we got to try this. The Chef really know how to make pasta here and he came out when I raved about the gnocchi and the scrumptious rich lobster bisque cream sauce they were in made from a fab fish reduction! (photos on FB). We finished with one of our favorites: Demi-magret de Canard, haricots Verts, Groseille, the half duck breast rare with green beans and currants. 

At home Will had some ice cream and I headed to bed.

Our last night here is tonight and we are headed out with our friend Hugo to say good-bye soon.

Tour's LE TURON is terrific (9-1-25)

 For our last night in the Loire we decided to spend the day in Tours (shopping and sightseeing) and then stay in for dinner before heading back to our troglodyte rock room!

We got LE TURON from our hotel concierge and it was a BIG HIT.

Amuses of focaccia with anchovy and a yummy pea velouté came first and we ordered a bottle of AOC Saint Nicholas de Bourgueil Cabernet Franc "L'Expression" from Domeiane Joel Taluau 2024 which may have been young but was superb and smooth.

A tiny bistro of cozy with close simple wooden tables and very comfy chairs--maybe 30-35 people and it was full by 745pm! The menu is simple as well with some chalkboard wines and specials, but we were immediately drawn to the TARTARE de BOEUF CHAROLAIS which was a main, but we split as a starter. It came with frites with parmesan and a truffle mayo dip. Pickled cauliflower and onion garnished the plate with a fabulous balsamic, shaved parmesan and crunchy shallots. I told them all: "C'est vraiment un des meilleurs tartares du monde!"

Mains were a superb POUPLE & GAMBAS Grille for Sam which he said was the best octopus he ever had. It came with ratatouille, spelt & creme de chorizo. My Ballotine de Pintade was a stuffed breast of guinea fowl(hen) with mousse, Cajun spices, mushroom risotto, and morel sauce with haricots verts. I loved it all, but the portion was huge!

We were very full and dessert did not even become a consideration, but what a great ending to our week in Charentes & the Loire.

Les Hautes Roches Restaurant Gastronomique(outside Tours, Loire) is good/great (8-31-25)

We moved west down the Loire to just outside Tours in the village of Rochecorbon for our last two nights at the Relais et Chateau Les Hautes Roches which actually has rooms built into the famous troglodyte caves of the region which is a fun novelty. We chose their "fine dining "Restaurant Gastronomique" which used to have a Michelin star for many years but now is simply a nice place to dine with not a ton of character. We sat at our table for almost 15 minutes waiting for anyone to come over and it seemed there were only two gents handling the entire room--about 12 tables or so. We managed to order drinks and then waited a tad more but at least things smoothed out as we moved on.

Fraises Basilic is a yummy fruity strawberry concoction of vodka, fresh strawberry jus, lime, and balsamic reduction! Paul turned out to be an excellent sommelier and we said we needed more than a bottle, and he came up with a solution of a half bottle, which is not too common in France! We started with AOP Montlouis-sur-Loire 2023 Les Hauts de Husseau which is an oaked Chenin Blanc that was an amazing white with mineral, oak and dry, simply the best we had all week. Our second 1/2 bottle was a Chateau de Nozet 2021 "De la Doucette" which was a Sauvignon Blanc that didn't taste at all like it. There was a hint of citrus but the wine was superb.

Three amuses arrived: A salmon and citrus in a cone(yummy), an avocado & pea tartelette(ok) and a yummy Parmesan beignet sitting in a spicy tomato sauce.

We both started with Raviole "Terre e Mer" which was Langoustines, Foie Gras and Mushrooms. The ravioli were filled with lobster and the sauce was a chicken and foie grs emulsion. OMG!! Fabulous idea. Our wine rocked with this.

Will ordered the Poisson de la Loire, which was whitefish (pike) and it had all kinds of yummy zucchini creations around with parmesan, but he daid the fried artichokes were greasy! My Veal loin came with a black sesame lacquer, cauliflower, jus Corse (Corsican sauce) with coffee. This was superb cut of meat and a delicious creation that melted in my mouth.

Needless to say I had cheese for dessert and chose three fabulous local ripe ones: Saint Maure de Touraine-which was a tad over aged goat, Selles sur Cher-gooey goat which is my fave in the Loire and Puligny St Pierre a very aged and stinky choice! It would have been nice if they offered me some fresh bread!

Will had Douceur Coco-Coconut mousse, sorbet passion fruit compote and pineapple.  Of course, cookies came and chocolate and we fell into bed!

AMOUR BLANC will blow your taste buds in Blois (Loire) (8-30-25)

 The next evening, we were happy to have planned an outing to see the Son-et-lumiere show at Chateau de Blois, so we chose a wonderful spot in Blois to dine right on the quai facing the chateau and old town! AMOUR BLANC is the second restaurant of Michelin-starred chef Christophe Hay, whose main restaurant was just next door. He had placed Chef Alexi Venuat in charge here and the team is virtually flawless. We sat down and explained we really wanted to enjoy dinner but had only 2-1/2 hours as we had to leave for the show at 945pm. NO PROBLEM!

Will ordered his requisite glass of Anjou La Fuye rose from Domaines des Myositits which was not cold enough, so they promptly took it off for quick chill. I started with the Touraine-Azay-le-Rideau "Josette" from Domaine de Cocagne which had super mineral taste of the local region. Our red for the rest was a bottle of Domaine Saumur 2023 Guibertau an intense black cherry flavored Cabernet Franc that was simply magnificent.

Amuses arrived in the form of a corn mousse with a crunchy top and corn shoots that was divine, a less exciting shrimp and cumin and a delicious wild boar rillettes with jam.

The gorgeous second floor setting with floor to ceiling windows overlooking the Loire and the chateau is spotless and very white with outdoor seating as well. Marble tables with little mats at each place and Riedel crystal made it fell quite classy like a Michelin star spot, but without the same prices. The service was excellent with panache and flair.

We both started with Tomates de Collection en Declination, Verveine, Cassis which were heirloom tomatoes in a magnificent vinaigrette with "confit" style breadcrumbs and a black current sorbet and currants that was to die for. The bread came with shiso butter as well as rapeseed oil.

After a nice break they brought my Pigonneau de Racan, cerises bigarreaux, fenouil, sauce infusee aux baie de geneievre which was a true work of art (FB photo) that I did not want to touch. The local pigeon from up the river was cut into several breast pieces and legs and set up in a geometric pattern  on the plate with sauteed baby fennel (that was so mild I loved it), a fennel confit (that was too strong for me), local cherries and a juniper berry sauce; a small fried ball of pigeon confit sat in the corner. Every bite was winning.

Will's Bar de Ligne, Celerissotto, truffe d'ete was a gorgeous sea bass filet with a celery risotto that Will said was so rich it overpowered the fish, but was delish nonetheless.

We could not resist dessert, and I had the Prune et Mirabelle, Shiso Brioche toastee, creme legere which was a plum and prune delight. Will went for the Framboises du Mont-pres-Chambord with Hazelnut Biscuit and Tonka Bean cream and Raspberry Sorbet which was also a huge winner.

We left for our show very full, but knowing if we ever get back to Blois, we have to try Chef Hay's number one spot!

MEMOIRE @ Chateau La Borde en Sologne (Loire) is a memory mostly forgotten (8/29/25)

I am a tad behind as we spent the entire week in the Loire and have to hurry up and pack to close up the home as we return to the USA tomorrow very early..UGH!

Our first night in the Loire Valley we dined at our chateau/hotel in a beautiful, gilded room that definitely oozed 16th-17th century. The service was decent and some of the food superb, but mediocre for the most part. I started with a Kir Vouvray as one does in the Loire using the sparkling local Vouvray with peach liqueur here. Our wine was a superb white from Domaine Pascal Jolivet in the Loire "Les Caillotes" Sancerre with lots of fruit and a tad of minerality.

It was ideal with the OEUF Starter (all fotos on FB) made with scrambled egg/candied yolk, a rich cream with sturgeon pieces in it and a brioche to accompany. we splurged and got the local caviar on our Brioche for an extra 13 Euros and it was a star. Made by a producer nearby in Sologne and called La grand Cerneant , it was excellent caviar and we are thrilled we can order it on line here to deliver to Bordeaux the next day!!

The Saint-Pierre main course (also called John Dory) was steamed and very boring and served with delicious petit legumes de saison from their garden and on the side was a fish emulsion and confit in a bowl somewhat akin to a bisque. We told them when we ordered to give us a good break of 20 mins between courses, but it came in 5! 

For dessert Will's Le Chocolat was nice made with 64% Guayaquil chocolate in layers and textures and hazelnut cream. My cheeses were an underwhelming Neufchatel (cow), a thrilling Tomme aux Noix, a yummy gooey Sainte-Nectaire and a huge portion of Bleu d'Auvergne!

It was not bad, and the caviar rocked, just not memorable.