Saturday, August 30, 2025

La Rochefoucauld-en-Angouleme's AU MOULIN DU CHATEAU is a beef bistro for all (8-28-25)

We decided to forego the hotel's one restaurant a second night and headed over to visit the adorable village of La Rochefoucauld about 20 mins. away and see the glorious chateau and managed to shop as well for the awesome local Charentes shoes/slippers. We spotted Au Moulin du Chateau at the bottom of the chateau and they were so welcoming and the Limoussin beef displayed looked fabulous as well that we could not resist the invite.
The place was quiet when we sat down at 730pm, but completely jammed when we left and many locals had joined the early dining tourists!
Will started with a glass of rose Domaine Le Pive Gris from Sable de Camargue (just outside of Montpelier where the famous rice comes from!) and then we shared a wonderful bottle of Cabernet Franc from the Loire 2023 Domaine Eric Bureau AOC Saint Nicholas de Bourgueil which we shall look for now that we are in the Loire! It was nice and medium bodied with a tad of earthiness but tons of fruit almost screaming Pinot Noir.
Our server said it would be great with our steak/frites, but Will started with a huge Gaufre sale(savory waffle), Creme Fouettee (really light cream cheese all whipped up), saumon fume(smoked salmon), crevettes (small shrimp) and avocat (avocado) while I loved my simple Salade de Chevre Chaud which was a salad with Grilled Pancetta(bacon) and two giant grilled toasts with large circles of fabulous warmed local goat cheese.
The steaks were the famous Entrecote de Boeuf Limoussin, the local cows well-known for their quality beef grilled in an open oven just below us as we sat on the upper floor/mezzanine. The steaks had some fatty parts and gristle, but the meat was generally tasty and the Sauce au Poivre(pepper sauce for 1 euro extra) was divine. The frites could have won an award as they were so crispy and seasoned with salt and pepper perfectly.
We were full and headed back to our hotel only to have a fab glass of Armagnac Blanc before bed.

Thursday, August 28, 2025

Dyades at Domaine des Etangs (Charentes region of northern Nouvelle Aquitaine) deserves a touch more on service, but the food is fab (8/27/2025)

 Our first night on our journey north to the Loire was halfway at Domaine des Etangs, and Auberge Resort located on a 1000-acre farm and art collection in a 14th century chateau with a Michelin star restaurant called Les Dyades (it had 2 stars in 2024!). The property is magnificent, but the attention to the staff and detail in the restaurant is likely why they lost one star. As this is a resort with just ONE dining spot, there is really no choice unless you have a car to drive somewhere (which is what we plan to do this evening), so many folks do not seem to care to dress for the occasion; short, polo shirts and such were de rigeur. Chef Matthieu Pasgrimaud has created a beautiful menu, but I think he is not on the scene, and the staff seem to mimic the dress of the clientele with basically sneakers, slacks and untidy shirts! Once we got past that and the fact that we had to wave our hands a lot to get attention to order wine or food, it was fine.

There is bottled water made in house offered sparkling and still at no charge, beautiful crusty bread with soft butter and oddly enough, no amuse or attempt to prepare or palates for what was to come. we marveled at how different this was from our beautifully appointed and superb L'Oiseau Bleu around the corner back in Bordeaux.
Wills started with a glass of Chateau Saint Maur Cotes de Provence Rose, and I adored the Sancerre from Paul Cherreu in the nearby Loire where we head tomorrow. Our red wine was a fabulous locale Charentes 2016 Piques Russe "Le temps vole" (stolen time) made from merlot & Cabernet Sauvignon that was dreamy and full of fruit forward flavors, that we thought it was begging to be a Pinot Noir!
My Tartellete de chair de torteau, legumes croquant du Domaine, nuage de Noilly Pratt was a delicious tarte with local crab and topped with a vermouth foam that was all so light, I wanted a tad more. Will had a French version of Vitello Tonnato with a Sauce Grenobloise and a Velour de thon blanc(creamy white tuna sauce), which was indeed delicious but also very rich and filling.
We both chose the Canard a la ferme de L'Arbre, courgette farcis des cuisses, jus au Bourbon which was a perfectly cooked rare to medium-rae duck breast from a local farm in the town of L'Arbre just down the road. Accompanying was a confir leg stuffed in zucchini.
For dessert the cheese platter offered up Chèvre aux herbes from a local farm, Kalbach from Switzerland a semi-hard and unexciting cheese, Comte aged 18 months which was fab and the divine Vache a la Truffe a triple cream cow with black truffles. Raisins, pistachios, griottes( sour cherry) jam and small salted bread sticks accompanied.
Will's Soufle a l'abricot, glace praline noisette was a divine warm apricot souffle with hazelnut praline ice cream on the side. We left full and happy, but really decided to try someplace else locally tonight.

Friday, August 22, 2025

Bordeaux's ZEPHIRINE , a zenithal experience (8-21-25)

 Last night we met some friends from Sam's school days at WIS and headed over to ZEPHIRINE, where we have been several times and always adored the food. While one has a choice of ordering just 3 choices (entree, main, dessert for 69 Euros), we had to try the get everything choice for 89 Euros, which includes everything on the tiny blackboard. This means the table shares 3 starters, 3 mains and 3 desserts. It sounds like a lot, and the first time we did it, it was just right. Last night it seemed like a lot more and we ended up taking home virtually all of the main meat course for another night (almost a whole meal at home).

We were there for over 3-1/2 hours and it was another spectacular dining experience. Our server was the adorable Milot, who is student and was our server before, but we were sad to hear this was his last night at Zephrine after 2 years! Bertrand and (I think her name is) Marie are in charge and also help the servers in the small space, while Chef Romain Corbiere always welcomes us along with the whole kitchen team as we pass by the open kitchen to the dining area. It was such a beautiful night, we sat on the small terrace which is not windy at all as it is surrounded by four walls. My only issue was the hard wiry chairs are not too comfortable and literally leave an impression on you as they are intertwined metal seats!! A small pillow would have been welcome. The wine list here, as in so many places, is really superb offering rare wines at super prices. We chose a superb Rhone blend (Roussane/Marsanne) Crozes Hermitage Blanc "Cour de Recre" from Francois Villard that was so ideal with so many of the dishes, we ended up having a second bottle.
The first plates arrived with the signature Terrine de campagne (pate of pork & poultry), salade d'herbes fraiches, Pickles and the fabulous bread and butter (photos on FB) which is in a silver holder that is squeezed through a sieve on the top to make the butter softer and more spreadable!  Next came two starters: An amazing Taboule aux betteraves, laitue et Feta (hand-crafted semolina tabouleh with beets, feta and lettuce-also a hint of mint and crunchy onions), but the Salade de tomate et haricot vert, pain vinaigrette, jambon was a revelation. Five kinds of local heirloom tomatoes (including one called pineapple tomato) were mixed with French green beans in a vinaigrette made from vinegar-soaked bread that had been decomposed. On the side were thin toasted bread topped with the amazing local jambon from Bayonne just an hour away. We all were in heaven as we ordered that second bottle of white.

The mains came slowly and one by one starting with Riz de Camargue aux epinards, legumes du moment mijote aux jus de tomate et marjolaine, this rice dish is unique from the south of France(Rhone) and is akin to Risotto in that the rice is thick and creates a thick and delicious sauce here cooked with tomato and marjoram. 

Maigre de ligne dore a la plancha sauce facon "soubise" acidulee au sumac was next, a gorgeous grilled local line-caught sea bass in a caramelized onion sauce with BBQ eggplant, zucchini and red onion. It was so simple and delicious, and the sauce was indeed amazing. We switched to red wine at this point and I chose a 2017 Vaqueyras from Domaine la Pigeade made of Syrah & Grenache, another superb Rhone blend indeed that we all adored. Vaqueyras can be very tannic and tight and often needs much time to mature. The 8-year old wine was just coming into maturation, so I hope this vintage is on the menu next time we go to try again!

The meat main dish was Faut filet de veau roti, jus aux olives and while the term "faux" or fake is used here, this small roasted veal tastes as good as any superb loin cut of meat. The once again simple (seeming) yet flavorful olive sauce was not overpowering and it came with fennel artichoke, Jerusalem artichokes, artichoke chips & parmesan chips.
The red wine was the perfect foil to this fabulous meat.

As I said Will & I ended up packing 90% of ours to go and will finish it this weekend! Needless to say, we all knew the cheese course option was not happening. The first dessert is the signature Zephirin(the namesake for the restaurant and simply round doughnut-like fried dough balls), served on every menu, and last night it was Zephirin a la mirabelle, sorbet tagete. Mirabelles are the seasonal tiny yellow plums here in France which are at peak now and full of flavor and tagete, Milot and Bertrand explained, was the small bush growing in the courtyard on the wall near us. It is a marigold variety, but a bush, and apparently each person tastes different things when it is eaten! My taste was definitely passionfruit and superb.
The Amandine Rhubarbe-Fraises was a gorgeous almond cookie/cake pastry topped with marinated rhubarb and strawberries and topped with almond slices that was a favorite indeed for us all. The Gourmande de vanille-chocolat was simply a homemade vanilla cream with Madagascar chocolate gelato/ice cream on top with chocolate and mascarpone. What's nor to like?
Zephrine is another favorite spot for us, but next time perhaps we will do just the three course choices! What we love about Bordeaux as well is the variety of French cuisines and styles all using such local and farm-to-table ingredients and, of course, the super friendly welcomes and service we get in so many wonderful places here.

We are off on a short week-long trip next week to the north of Aquitaine and the Loire, so stay tuned for many gourmet meals there!
Bonne weekend!


Thursday, August 21, 2025

Bordeaux's Le CHIEN de PAVLOV is a pleasure (8-19-25)

We met some friends Tuesday evening for dinner in old town at Le CHIEN DE PAVLOV (yes, Pavlov's Dog!) where Will had dined before and loved it. It was indeed a hit despite the small menu and limited choices. Everything we had was simply delicious and the service from just one server was pretty good as well. There were only 3 occupied tables as this is low season here with so many people on August vacation and I am guessing the tourists do not know this fab spot.
The tables are high tops with comfy high chairs, so not great for the handicapped, yet we were quite comfortable, and my back did not seem to be bothered at all. There are two chalkboards: one with the three entrees, three main plats and three dessert choices and another with the wine choices: three white, two red and a sparkling. The 2022 Orion Petit Chablis was full of stone fruit flavors which was great, and we loved it so much we could not decide between another bottle or switching to red. When we asked for the second bottle, we were told that the one we drank was the last, so we went for the better red on the chalkboard, which we were promptly told was sold out! O Mon Dieu! Never fear, as our server returned with a bottle of Chateau Mangot 2019 Saint Emilion Grand Cru which he offered at the same ,price of 38Euros (the wine sells online for around 30!), which was a true steal. It was young but opened up well and really showed off its terroir and earthy characteristics.
Will started with Vitello Tonnato, Capres, Parmesan which was a superb preparation of the thin veal with tuna sauce, capers and shaved parmesan. I opted for the fabulous Crudo de Daurade, Leche de Tigre, Pickles (all photos on FB) which was a large plate with the Dorado sliced on one side and the sauce spread over the other side of the plate and was superbly flavored but not super spicy, perhaps a tad over the usual French minimal levels! I loved it all!
Marbre de Cabillaud, Verveine, Hummous, Petits Pois, Peche was a delicious filet of local cod with verbena sauce with a hint of peach and fresh local peas, and hummus on the side while the Agneau Confit, Ktipiti, Coriandre was an excellent confit served in a round cylinder covered with a rich demi-glace sauce and large servings of ktipiti or Tirosalata, a Greek dip made from Feta and Red peppers that was delicious and called for bread to dip in. Did I mention the amazing crusty French bread loaf that came warm and yummy to table multiple times as we could not resist it!? 
There was no room for dessert, but our waiter immediately returned with small complimentary shot glasses of a concoction of gin, creme de whiskey, what he called pucher (sp?) and lemon zest which we all loved. Will had a second when the guy returned and asked if we wanted another! What a lovely evening with our friends and a new fabulous find for me here in Bordeaux, which there are luckily too many to ever discover them all!

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Monday, August 18, 2025

Bordeaux's Steak in Resto or Meat'in steak--call it what you want but it sucks! (8-17-25)

 We had our minds set on dining out Sunday here in our complex at the new Greek place Kalimera, which noted they were open on Sunday for dinner on the door. We passed by Saturday when they were open to double check, but alas, did not enquire and as it was a Sunday on a holiday weekend, they chose to close. Disappointed we walked next door to what outside has a sign calling it "Steal in Resto." It was pretty empty but very nicely appointed with comfy leather chairs and fairly quiet except for the noise from the large screen TV covering half of one wall! 

We scanned the UPC code to view the menu and got excited as it was not just steaks and not French, instead it was Turkish with pide and many kebabs. Will & I love the dried Turkish beef called Pastirma, or as we know it pastrami and they had a pide (or flatbread) with it! Iskender with lamb kebab, yogurt and tomato sauce was another thing we like. I saw a drink list with all virgin mocktails and then we noticed that each table with folks at it had a hookah they were sharing. We had passed the "hookah bar" at the entrance and there was a couple dozen with a "hookah bar tender" behind, but we didn't think much of it. I enquired about a wine list to find out that they served no alcohol. A dry restaurant in France--in Bordeaux! Oh no-MON DIEU!
We proceeded to ask if we could do take-out and then grabbed our dishes when they were ready, headed the one block back to our place and opened a bottle of red wine and sat down to eat. The pide was crispy edged and yummy, but the pastirma was tasteless and only a couple of pieces on the flatbread. We heated up the Iskender which was quite good although, we thought it odd that it was filled with pieces of tomato-sauce-soaked chunky bread, which I do not recall seeing before. Googling the dish, I remember it is served over pita, which was missing, perhaps they had no pita.
Whatever the case and despite the friendly and nice service with a smile, we felt that Steak in Resto or Meat'in Steak, whatever it is called is not worth a return visit. Sadly that makes two out of three places Will has visited in our complex and two out of two for me that failed the test!
Kalimera--praying you are worthy when we do finally get there!

Sunday, August 17, 2025

Bordeaux's WASABI CAFE still has super sushi (8-12-25)

 On Tuesday we took a quick 2 min bus ride up the quai to Place Stalingrad where the tiny WASABI CAFE sits and boasts some really super sushi. It is our friend Kim's favorite place to eat and after trying the new sushi place in our complex with her back in March, we realized that Wasabi is so superior! Just as an aside, the place in our complex runs totally on iPad orders and u can't really see how they make it or what you get. It is a set price for all you can eat--ALTHOUGH if you have leftovers, they charge you, even if you do not take it away!! We felt this was nuts. Many young people love it, and we all thought their sushi was bland and boring. 

At Wasabi Cafe they have indoor and outdoor seating (not a sole was outside in the 100+ heat!) and a la carte or set menus. We decided to get the Menu Duo I which includes steamed edamame, 2 bowls of miso soup(we ordered one extra), 2 of their amazing cabbage salads (we ordered one extra) that has a wasabi vinaigrette that is loaded with flavor, PLUS a platter with 6 sushi, 6 sashimi, 6 maki and 6 California rolls. The piece de la resistance of the platter is the SPICY CRUNCH Roll which is surimi, avocado, cucumber all smothered with tiny fried onions in a spicy sauce! This was so good we ordered an extra which filled us to the brim! Food total cost 56Euros($65) + drinks.
FYI the place in our building has a flat fee of 28Euros each if I recall! Much better deal, much better food.
Tonight, we are trying the Greek place that opened up in our complex! Wish us luck!

Friday, August 15, 2025

Once again L'OISEAU BLEU in Bordeaux is beyond bravos! (8-9-25)

We had planned a full day walking tour with our friend/guide Bruno of SoBordeaux and knew we would be exhausted, but this was our guest Janice's last night in Bordeaux (before boarding a river cruise) and Samuel would be leaving two days later, so we booked one of our favorite spots in Bordeaux ages ahead as they are so small and full up so fast. L'OISEAU BLEU is just over a mile away from us on the right bank here and deserves way more than its one Michelin star as it is truly a special place. The service is impeccable and Saturday night we had Caroline as our server and Amber again as our sommelier. We were sad to learn that Amber would be moving on in the fall but told her to keep in touch as she knows wine so well!
The setting is white with hints of ocean blue and other colors very reminiscent of a Matisse work (check out the FB photos) and so calm and cool, especially in the heat wave we have had! House water here is filtered and offered in sparkling or still! Sam is a huge fan now of French cider and Amber suggested a bottle of Eric Bordelet Poiree Cidre(one of the most famous Normandy pear ciders) made from 17 types of pears! He loved it as we did our very local Domaine de Puy Redon 2016 Chardonnay which is not a common Bordeaux grape and was from only 100 miles east of us!

One of the main reasons we wanted to go here was that they offer an amazing tasting menu of 4 or 6 courses priced at 100 and 130 Euros respectively which is a steal at today's exchange ($117 & $152). we chose the six and the veggie option was only 4 for Sam. They also have wine pairings, but again we prefer to order two bottles and save a bundle. Our red that Amber said was amazing and indeed it was, was the 2021 Beaune 1er Cru from Domaine Phillippe Bouzereau, a magnificent full-bodied Burgundy Pinot Noir that opened up magnificently after Amber decanted it!

There were cocktails of course and Janice had the requisite champagne while I tried to Dolce Vita of Italicus, Champagne and sparkling water while Will tried the Acapulco made with Limoncello, Green citron and thyme verjus.

There are always amuses and we had two sets of them. First came a vegetable tartelette with tarragon cream and zucchini balls, a marinated Sea Bream with watermelon (Sam got something else) and a Cauliflower tartelette, ours having a tiny lardon on top. 
The second amuse was an unbelievably tender Cuttlefish two-ways: marinated and paired with a truly subtle cuttlefish cream topped with mirabelle (those amazing tiny French plums) and radish, while Sam got Candied Apricot with cream and black garlic. This was served with oregano & basil focaccia and a smoked fir tree butter!

Course I was a Smoked Tomatoes with a Vanilla Tomato Sorbet, Oil and Tomato Jus that was about one of the most refreshing tomato dishes ever made from superb heirloom tomatoes. While this might be a vegetarian's delight, this was one dish we all agreed was stupendous.

Course II was Langouste (lobster) with Lobster & black garlic sauce paired with Roasted Eggplant and candied apricot! The sauce had a pesto feel and was extremely mild and unique. I wish we knew that Janice did not eat lobster as she pawned hers off to us making me feel a tad sad! A lotus shaped fried bread topped with lobster accompanied the dish.

Course III was a Roasted Sardine with Rocket (Arugula) & Spinach cream, Peppered Hollandaise and roasted Padron pepper. This dish totally surprised me as it was spicy and so not French! Mackerel is common here and of course, it is fishy, but the hollandaise was not very rich and a tad spicy which was the perfect foil to the fish. Of course, the Padron was quite spicy, too! Sam got a gorgeous plate of Carrots with Citrus Jelly.

Our main course IV was Pigeon Leg Confit with foie gras stuffing as well as gorgeous plump breast roasted and served with a very mild caramelized fennel and sweet onion cream that I adored. Sam got caramelized fennel and the same cream sauce that he loved.

Cheese was next (a main reason we chose the 6 course option) and it was a beautiful tray(see FB photos) we each chose from. I wnet with Corse du Maquis, a light firm cheese; Chevre et brebis (goat and sheep mix) persille (parslied) that was divine; Marotte made from sheep and looking like Tete de Moines (which is shaved off in this coils); and Pont L'Eveque an always fab French choice. They were paired with Rhubarb puree.  My notes indicate we ordered a glass of Graeme & Julie Bott 2022 Condrieu, but I cannot recall doing that or where we drink it! Of course, we are huge Condrieu (very rare and specific Rhone Viognier) fans and drink it whenever we can, if the price is right!

Dessert course VI was Roasted Peach with Brunoise of Peach, Shiso pesto and Peach Sorbet, a dehydrated green shiso leaf on top all in a peach & oil vinaigrette. This dish was a mirror of the opening tomato dish and treated the fruit like it was a goddess. We all oohed and ahhed and gobbled it up.
Of course, petit fours arrived but this was not a candy to take away, it was a delicious scoop of Cardamom & Pepper Ice Cream that was like a fluffy mousse all topped with cacao crude. Again, not a dribble left in anyone's bowls.
We loved it all (save for Janice & the lobster!) and can't wait to return and maybe meet the chef team of Sophie et Frederic as well!

Thursday, August 14, 2025

Toujours l'amour chez LE LOUP a Bordeaux (8-5-25)

As Samuel arrived on Monday, we wanted him to have a little rest but then take him to one of our fave spots in Bordeaux, LE LOUP, where we knew they had some veggie options. As always, it was a great choice. We arrived and Ludovic, the manager, was so happy to see us again and now have our son in tow. We ordered our regular Thyme Citron which is so refreshing in the heat with Vodka, Schweppes and Thyme.
As we ordered lighter dishes we chose a bottle of 2021 Sauvignon Gris "L'Etiquette Grise" from Chateau Carsin in Bordeaux (the chateau that Le Loup gets many of its wines from) that was a little on the mineral side, but so refreshing. It was great with the Gaspacho (yes, spelled with an "s" in France) de Fraises, Sorbet Rhubarbe which was somewhere between sweet (strawberries) and savory (rhubarb)and even better with the Tempura de Mais, a perfectly battered and deep fried bundle of corn with a seasoned Mayonnaise sauce.
Carpaccio de Betterave, Sorbet Sumac and Mascarpone was an gorgeous salad of thinly sliced purple beets with a yummy chilled and savory sumac sorbet scoop and dapple of mascarpone. Raviolis d'Artichauts, Consomme de Tomates was a brilliant dish as the pasta here is always divine. The creamy divine artichoke filling was amazing and the warm light tomato "broth" they sat in was delish. I think if Sam were not so tired, he would have opted for an extra portion. Will & I shared the Demi-Magret de Canard, Haricots verts, Groseilles, which was a perfectly seared rare 1/2 duck breast with all cut up green beans mixed with currants that I adored.
Dessert was Creme Coco frais, Sorbet Kalamansi, meringue and was light, but I still am not the biggest hard meringue fan. Brownie Chocolat Blanc, Glace Cacahouette, Coulis Fruits Rouges was a super white brownie with peanut ice cream that rocked and red fruit coulis that we all gobbled up.
Once again, Le Loup comes through!

last night in London: ANGLOTHAI tasting is terrific (7/31/2025)

 ANGLOTHAI is located a block away from Marble Arch on a small street loaded with dining options. I had read a review several months ago and it really sounded spicy, surprising and something different as you don't find many Asian/Thai restaurants with tasting menus.

As we alighted from the Peninsula's chauffeur driven and leather enveloped Bentley (it is complimentary within 2 miles of the hotel), we were greeting with grins and cheers by Ruby at the door, who never seemed to be upset (but how could anything here upset anyone?). Seated at a table in wooden chairs that could have used a cushion, I worried about my rearend for the long meal! The only other thing that bothered us was the occasional changing of the music to thumping loud "disco" style that seemed so inappropriate for dining.
The 125pound price (about $170) can be paired with wines/drinks for another 95 pounds, but we conversed with our server Eleni and she sent the sommelier, Nicole, over who was thrilled to recommend a white and red wine that came to much less than the pairing and gave us way more wine. A super minerally Cataratto "Vibrazioli" 2024 from Cantine amato in Sicily was so refreshing and the Chinon "Resillience" Cabernet Franc "La Niverdiere" from Martine Bude in the Lire was light, but earthy and had a hint of chalk. The name resilience, Nicole explained, is that Mme. Bude, the winemaker, had survived a divorce and was still running the winery! I should not that there is a 1 pound charge per person for all the house filtered water as well as a discretionary 15% cover charge added, which we were happy to pay!

I started with a Seabuckthorn Margarita made with Ojo de Tigre Mezcal, Chinotto Nero & verjus and loved it as Will did his Pear Martini of Capreolus pear Eau-de-vie, Sapling Vodka, Sapling Gin and dry vermouth. 
A really flavorful amuse of Chilled Cucumber broth arrived that had a spicy lemongrass aftertaste (it is not on the photos on FB!). The first course was a Compressed Kohlrabi, Candied Beetroot and Duchess Rapeseed which was also really an amuse bite but full of flavor, although not spicy. I should note that the crystal is very nice Lehmann and the homemade earthenware plates and bowls were all different and quite beautiful.
Second was a spicier Line Caught cured Mackerel with Rhubarb, Horseradish + Citrus, with chile Tartlet. We could not help comparing this to the mackerel at frog 3 nights earlier and these two dishes were both so brilliant but so different. Here the mackerel was less intense due to the chile and we loved every little bite.
The spiciest so far was the third course (also really an amuse) of Fosse Meadows Chicken, Coconut Golae & Ajut Pickle(mooli) which was grilled and topped with micro-sorrel.
Things got intense with course #4 of Brixham Crab, Exmoor Caviar & Coconut Ash Cracker. The crab is under the caviar and can be seen in the second photo with a mayo aioli that was divine. This was a superb use of both main ingredients and full of flavor with the right amount of spice. the cracker is made of brown crab as well.
I love tongue and Beef Tongue with Jungle Curry & brioche was a real treat even if the tongue was just a tad chewy. The coconut in the curry was just right to balance the spice and the brioche was deep fried with a chili butter glaze! We had switched to the Cab franc and were loving everything but we needed a long rest and Eleni made sure we had almost 30 minutes; kudos to the kitchen.
Course #6 was British Octopus, Chili Jam & Courgette (no photo) and the octopus was really a grilled confit and also had pork fat with octopus emulsion with coconut cream sauce and tarragon oil. It was a lot to take in indeed. The "main" meat #7 was Barrett Farm Lamb, Car y Mor Cockles & Herbal Curry, Hodmedod's Wholegrain Spam(yup--SPAM!) & Laab Spice. The zucchini was pickled with a quenelle of red chili, gooseberry & lemongrass. This lamb rocked, but alas I could only manage a couple of bites to taste each fabulous element. 
Dessert arrived and first came the Cherry, Palm Sugar Biscuit ad Toasted Chili on one plate and Strawberry Grachai & Coconut Flan in the other. The balance was super as the first was spicy and the other cooling. As if this was not enough, the last course#10) arrived called Kanom Lek, a coconut pancake with custard which was explained as a typical Asian street food(no photo) and last came a tiny Raspberry jelly with tamarind gel, long peppercorn and sugared raspberry atop.
Will finished off with a glass of Saumur "La Tournelle" dessert wine, which I had a teeny sip of. It was a yummy time to go home and pack for the flight to Bordeaux tomorrow!!  I think the dinner lasted about 4 hours, but I was so full and tired I cannot recall, but boy was it a tasty and different dining experience.

Tuesday, August 12, 2025

London's Cafe Deco is cute and delightful (7/30/25)

 Our third night in London we headed over to a bistro to meet a friend near The British Museum called Cafe Deco which was really small, intimate and super. There were some tables outside, a small counter with seats inside and maybe a dozen or so tables. The menu changes daily here and offers up some fun British bistro food that leans a little to French.

We had some fun drinks and then a bottle of Gutturnio "Il vei" 2021 Barbera/Bonardo blend from Emilia-Romagna in Italy that was surprisingly yummy as this region does not export much wine (at least virtually none to the USA!).
Small plates are the rule here, so we started with their Egg Mayonnaise topped with anchovies which sadly was way over-mayonnaised. The Cheesy Puffs were very fun and light. Gazpacho was a treat (although not really for sharing) and I was crazy for the Tuna Stuffed Spicy Pickled Peppers with Coco Beans and Marjoram that really packed a spicy punch. The beans were a perfect foil to the spice. 
"Mains" were Spring Onion & Cheddar Quiche with green salad, Fish Stew with Fennel, Croutons and Rouille (think bouillabaisse) and a wonderful Braised Rabbit Leg with Tomato, Tarragon & Cream.
The cheese was okay, but the Apricot & Cherry Cobbler with Ice Cream was delish and our server brought out a complimentary plate of the Ricotta Fritters with Summer Berry Compote that were really wonderful!
This is a real find, but do reserve as the place was full by 730pm! 

Monday, August 11, 2025

Charlie's @Brown's Hotel by Chef Adam Byatt will bring you back (7-29-25)

 Our second evening in London started with cocktails at the Ritz Bar with our friend Umberto who has taken over as Sales manager there recently and is truly a classy host in a great hotel! We headed around the corner to Brown's Hotel (a Rocco Forte Hotel) for a quick site visit with the Managing Director and another round of cocktails with the sales team. We had booked Charlie's, a long-time English favorite with Chef Adam Byatt at the helm and expected a top notch but very English-style meal; boy, were we wrong. 

Once again, the service from Artur & Ben was impeccable and when I was thrilled to see an Yves Cuilleron Viognier on the wine list, I immediately told Ben we had to have it (I met the winemaker some 25 years ago before he subsequently passed away). Ben insisted on bringing us the more expensive and top quality Condrieu (Viognier designation) 2023 "Les Vignes a Cote-La Petite Cote" which was a divine creamy and unctuous viognier that I consider one of the best in the world. 
An amuse of radish on taramasalata arrived with focaccia bread and while I loved the radish/fish roe paste combo, it was even better on the warm focaccia as the stern B&W photo of the Queen overlooked us (FB photos).  we decided to try the shared plate of Crab & Apple Tartlets as well as the Baked Jersey Royal A (potatoes) with Anchovy & Parmesan that were simply decadent.
Will & I shared a superb and refreshing Vesuvio Tomato & White Peach Salad that Ben recommended and it came with Basil & Tomato Tea (dressing) that made this dish a real treat. The heirloom tomatoes came from the slopes of Vesuvius and the peaches were ripe and sweet and delish.
While Will loved his Steamed Cornish Turbot with warm tartare sauce and fresh English peas, I chose the small starter portion of Hand Cut Strozzapreti with Girolle mushrooms, saffron, butter and a tad of parmesan on top which was as pure as pasta gets.
The decor is very cozy, very comfy and very spaced with a relaxed English feel and light colors as the hotel has moved from clubby heavy leather to a much lighter feel.
We had a great time but were way to full for any more after the huge meal the night before and went into shock when Ben told us the meal was taken care of by our hosts, who had spent the evening waiting for us to emerge from Charlie's to be sure we had a great time. WOW! Thank you all!

London's FROG by Adam Handling always hails high on our list (7-28-25)

I am sorry I am a tad behind as we have been travelling in the UK and entertaining folks here at our home in Bordeaux. Things have quieted down so hopefully you will enjoy the numerous right ups to follow at your leisure.

We have been to FROG several times now around the corner from Covent Garden just off the Strand and still come out with raves all the time. The intimate 10-12 table setting with the open kitchen and superb staff make this Michelin-starred dining destination even better. The multi-course menu is a set price (199 pounds=US$270) and will amaze you at every bite, but this time we opted to skip the paired wines and go for a bottle each of white and red. Our sommelier Sylvia (as our server Paolo) hailed from Italy and really knew her wines well. I noticed a Viognier/Roussane blend 2023 "Etincelle" blanc 2023 from Pierre et Jerome Coursodon that was creamy yet minerally and she said it would be great with the many fish/seafood courses we had coming. She led us to a fabulous Italian Merlot from Stocco 2019 made of Vecchie viti (old vines) from the Venezia Giulia region that was super and full bodied, despite being from the north., where red wines can be much lighter. House filtered water saves money and the enviroment and tasted as good as any bottled water.
The first course was entitled "Earth" and it seemed that entire Hobbit House arrived on the table with a log and mushrooms and more. There were two mushroom tartelettes perched on it with Lovage Emulsion and a carpaccio of mushrooms and mushroom powder. A mushroom tea with white herbs was poured tableside to accompany.

Course 2 was a set of three amuses (all the photos are on FB):
-Tuna tartare with beef fat emulsion, trout roe, lime, English wasabi and sake all topped with crispy fried wild leeks
-Mackerel sat on seaweed and citrus gel with fresh flowers and sorrel on a cracker that looked like a mackerel and was made of mackerel bones!!
Course three (the above ll came together)--A cheese & garlic donut (it seems that Chef Adam is obsessed by donuts) was made with Pocher cheddar that was quite rich indeed.

#4 was then Chicken Sandwich which came with an explanation about Sunday dinner leftover chicken on Monday. It was delish but a tad greasy and I took only one bite as I had been told to avoid greasy foods. Next to this was served course #5: a sourdough loaf made of Earl Gray & IPA beer on one plate and then a triple section plate with crispy chicken skin butter, chicken liver parfait coated in beetroot and rich chicken jus poured tableside. The idea was to take the bread, butter and liver all in one bite after dipping it the juts (French dip style). It was tons of fun and messy, and I worried about the magnificent soft white "ultrasuede" tablecloths and then was told they are made of vegan leather and thus can wipe clean in seconds....all my jus drops were gone.

Course #6 was Orkney Island hand-dived scallop that were blanched and coiled with butternut squash over a tomato-gelatin base with lemongrass/shiso(perilla) vinaigrette and then garnished with tiny ginger, pear and butternut squash balls. The scallops were divine and my only comment that was negative as there was too much vinaigrette.

We opted to split the added caviar course (35pounds) and I must say it is a whole presentation and plating that will wow. There is a ton of Umai Tibetan farmed caviar that is brined for a week and then aged in sub-zero temps. It sat on a bed of seaweed custard (that reminded me of chawanmushi) and then doused with an intensely strong bone marrow reduction which sadly overwhelmed the caviar as I really wanted to taste it more. A gorgeous croissant was on the side.

Line caught Cornish cod from Newlyn was next with fennel and roasted green chilis (which were English so not very spicy after the first kick of pepper!) with seaweed all steamed in horseradish butter. It was indeed a fish of perfection. We had to switch to red as the fab white was gone and it actually worked quite well!

Number 9 was Agnolotti of king oyster mushrooms and sweetbreads as well as the mushrooms in a compressed form (the FB picture shows the discs) and served with a pea puree with white garlic a tad of mint gel, asparagus and mushrooms and a lamb reduction. parker house rolls accompanied, but I could eat no more than a teeny bite of the roll. This was a pasta to remember indeed.

The main or #10 was Saddle and fillet of Cumbrian lamb cooked to perfection and oh so tender with tandoori cauliflower, puffed quinoa, garlic flowers and cauliflower puree. The lamb jus was with mustard seed and honey!  Our red was simply perfect!

We opted to skip the cheese course as the meal was about to enter its 5th hour, and we were beyond full.
Fake Strawberry leaves arrived in the pre-dessert with sorbet of sheep's milk yogurt in between making a sandwich.
Course #11 was the "British Trifle" or Chef Adam's take which was shaved frozen Scottish strawberries (it had a granita effect) over meadowsweet biscuit with long pepper custard. We met Charlotte, the pastry shave, and could not stop raving!
A post-dessert also arrived in the form of Poppyseed madeleines to spread with gooseberry jam and meadowsweet cream (a scone style prep, but lighter), which sent us on our happy way- a 3 block walk back to the hotel and bed!
Always a great dining experience in the UK with Chef Adam Handling!