I have returned to Des Moines regularly for the Des Moines Metro Opera festival every July and we try to keep one night free to eat at Harbinger as it is so innovative and tasty.
Last night I went over there after the matinee, took a seat at the bar (as I was alone) and decided to splurge on the $150 tasting menu; boy was it worth every cent!
Garrett at the bar poured a glass of Erbaluce di Caluso from Bruno Giacometti which was a mineral-intense white that I loved. It was great with the Amuse of Beef fat brushed potato topped with A-5 Wagyu tartare, scallions and a black garlic aioli. It was mean and lean and spicy too from a Kosho powder that I loved (apparently $40 a bottle!).
Next came the Spicy Scallop Crudo Onigiri with nectarine, carrot, ginger all wrapped in a rice which was coated with Furikake spice on one side. OMG, it just kept getting better with every bite. I switched whites as Devon, who was helping at the bar, let me taste the Teutonic 2023 Gewürztraminer from Corw Valley Vineyard in Oregon. This tasted like no other white and paired wonderfully as well with all the dishes.
Squash Blossoms were next stuffed with Blue Prawns in Chili Vinegar, Salted Cucumber and flowering cilantro (which I thought at first was fennel!). Again, the spice was just right with all the food flavors melding into a great bite and mouth feel. Green Curry Spring Peas followed with superb tasting fresh peas in a coconut emulsion, a lite curry and a squid ink tuile on top for crunch and fun.
The Potatoes (mash & crispy slices) were with a rich Iowa Tama Miso made from the leftover poached whey from homemade cheese and mixed with buttermilk making it extremely rich and decadent. I was grateful for a rest (the meal took almost 3 hours) and decided to switch to a Ver Sacrum GSM blend from Argentina which was a full-bodied red that I also loved.
Halibut came wrapped in Summer Squash on a crispy tasty, charred zucchini cake with zombie tomatoes(dehydrated and rehydrated), a red curry emulsion and tomato oil. A truly fabulous delicate fish treated with great respect.
The "main" was Sakura Family Wagyu Bavette that was rare and just salted and divine. Blistered red onions on the side tasted almost pickled and there was a Strawberry Soubise with Bicycle Radish, turnips and turnip puree.
The dessert was a great combination of different things on one small plate. Strawberry Shortcake from Chef Jordan's grandmother's recipe with his own twist came with Compte, peppercorn bavarois and meringue.
Every bite all night was a treat and that is another reason that Des Moines is on our list every summer(besides the fab opera festival!).
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