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The Phyllis List

Food, wine, and restaurant reviews from the Casa di Leone.

Sunday, May 27, 2018

Haidar Karoum's CHLOE in SE DC has creative cuisine that comforts (5-26-18)

This week was tough for Samuel as he pulled a hamstring and had to back out of his dance program at Strathmore that he had rehearsed for 9 months(4 hours a week!), so I decided to take him out for dinner while Will was playing Wilbur the pig in Charlotte's Web. I chose Chloe in SE DC which opened several months ago under the guidance of Chef Haidar Karoum, who pretty much put Proof on the map over a decade ago and went on to open it's hugely successful sister restaurants(Estadio & Doi Moi). Several years ago he left the group and took time to develop CHLOE which is a perfect glove fit mixing so many types of cuisine and having that warm comfy feeling. We walked in to the all glass windowed location between the Navy Yard & Nats Stadium (which has become a very hot dining destination) and were asked if we wanted a table or to sit at the kitchen counter. We chose the latter and were escorted to super comfy padded chairs lined up at a granite counter with a contraption above holding tons of potted plants. We could see everything going on in the kitchen right before us. A drink menu/wine list/ and one page manu were proffered and we started to peruse. As you know, Sam is a vegetarian and I had checked out the options before. Chef Haidar popped over to greet us and also tell Sam that many of the non-veggie options can be adapted. Do be careful though, as some of the veggie sounding dishes do use fish sauce or anchovy for flavor.
The dining room is medium sized with lots of light wood(tables & floor) but again super comfy padded chairs that don't give you a sore tuchus or feel like they want you to move on as fast as you finish! The noise levels were high, but never unbearable.
Sam chose the "Not Tested on Animals" mocktail made of aloe vera, tarragon and ginger and fell in love. He later tried the other Rhubarb Spritzer and said it was a bit too bitter from the lemon, and returned to his second "Not tested!" I went for the Juan Perrignon and combo of blanco tequila, dolin blanc, arugula (yes!) and bubbles, which was a super tasty (not sweet), aromatic, yet satisfying summer drink I fell in love with.
Sam had skipped lunch and immediately wanted an order of the Grilled bread with Sicilian Olive Oil and Sea Salt which he gobbled up (I got 2 of the 5 pieces), and then used for mopping up the sauce of the most spectacular Grilled Wild Ramps with Romesco Sauce, Aged Manchego & Marcona Almonds (photos on FB). The dish was piled high with a dozen of so thick long ramps grilled to perfection and the sauce was to die for. 
The Broiled Local Oysters are 4 scrumptious Blue Points with a Horseradish/Creme Fresh Glaze and a brown bread crumble on top. It sounds rich, but the oyster flavor popped through and the sauce/glaze was only a 1/2 teaspoon or so and did not overwhelm at all.
Caramelized Cauliflower is another vegetarian dream with tahini, lemon, garlic, a slight hint of mint, parsley and toasted pine nuts.
If you like sushi and spice, go for the Cobia Crudo with avocado which packs a punch from the Thai chilies, lime, fish sauce, crispy shallots and puffed black rice. 
While all the dishes are "small plates" they really are all enough to feed three or even four people easily, and the more you choose, the more the fun.
There are three "large mains" and we saw trays of the Spice Roasted Chickens go by(foto on FB) as well as tons of the Crispy Whole Fish (Berkshire Pork Chop is the 3rd), but we did not stray from our sharing.
I had settled on a tasty Nigl "Freiheit" Gruner Veltliner 2017 from Austria which was perfect with the spicy cobia, but moved on to the Cave Spring Dry Riesling 2013 from Niagara Peninsula in Canada on the suggestion of our helpful server, Cesar. He also said I should not miss his favorite new dish and he was right. The Chile Glazed Sablefish is a lesson in restraint with the thick flaky fish barely glazed with mild spice and presented atop Celery Root Puree, Baby Bok Choy and a mild Gochugan Emulsion. I was in heaven and the pairing with the Riesling was a dream. The wine list is fascinating and very eclectic and Manager Tyler deserves credit for this as well as his wonderful cocktails (& mocktails).
Sam finished with the Potato Gnocchi with ramps, asparagus, wild mushrooms, snow peas and Parmesan which is an homage to everything that is fresh as we are now in full Spring greens mode.
I had to try a dessert and chef recommended the Strawberry & Rhubarb Shortcake when I said I lean towards fruit over chocolate. You know that I am not a big dessert fan, but the simple biscuit used for the construction was delicious and the fruit as fresh as could be with Strawberry Sorbet & the lightest of Chantilly creams; simply divine. For those seeking less sweetness, try the Tamarind Sorbet!
We left full and full well knowing that Chloe is worth the trek from NW(20 mins in no traffic), but must be avoided by car on baseball game days!

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                                                                                                                                                                                                                                MOD
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                                                                                                                                                                                                                                CVG Opera/Glimmerglass
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                                                                                                                                                                                                                                HAL, Senior Advisor-Office of the President
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                                                                                                                                                                                                                                Ambassador from Estonia to USA
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                                                                                                                                                                                                                                US House of Reps
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                                                                                                                                                                                                                                Levine, Jeffrey
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                                                                                                                                                                                                                                Karoum, Haidar

                                                                                                                                                                                                                                haidar@restaurantchloe.com

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                                                                                                                                                                                                                                Posted by Alan Savada at 9:16 AM
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