Last week after a superb performance of LA
TRAVIATA at the In Series, we headed with the three leads of the cast to
THE PARTISAN which had recently opened in Penn Quarter
(thepartisandc.com - 709 D St, NW).
Several weeks prior we had
discussed dining options with Samuel as it was his 11th birthday and
when he spotted FRIED APPLE PIE on the on-line menu, his mind could not
be altered. It was a superb choice.
We arrived a while before
the singers could escape their fans and ordered a bottle of 2012
Cabernet Franc Rose from Brooklyn (the name of the winery) in NY's
Finger Lake region. It was refreshing on a hot day and works very well
with many of the various (as well as more intense) flavors on the menu.
Samuel mentioned that he had to have the BEEF FAT FRIES with Ranch
Aioli, so while we were waiting our "on top of everything" server Matt
brought over a complimentary order for the birthday boy! Most of them
were gone in a flash and our guests only got to taste one or two as they
arrived! (I'm just as guilty as Sam & Will, though!)
Charcuterie
has become a big "thing" in DC and dining most everywhere these days,
but at The Partisan it is taken to new heights by Chef Nathan Anda who
operated the Red Apron Butchery next door as well. While he was not in
Saturday night, he team manages a smooth and satisfying operation, and
we had to peruse the Charcuterie menu to start. Each of us chose an item
or two and we ended up with a gorgeous display of the following:
Campari-Rosemary Dried Italian Salami(Negroni Inspired)
Thai Basil Cured Bresaola-cured beef with Ginger, Kefir Lime & Jalapeno
Herb Saucisson-dried with herbs de Provence
Kielbasa-smoked Garlic sausage with Marjoram & Peppers
Spanish Chorizo-with Paprika & Peppers
Poached Fig Rillettes-bourbon poached and oh so rich!
The
plate arrives with hot mustard for the sausages as well as pickled
plums that were also a big hit. On the side comes a rack of freshly
baked Tigelle which are simply pressed wheat breads with a brush of lard
pressed on iron grills--YUM. Sam adored these and asked for an entire
bag to take home for breakfast the next day!
The Charcuterie
is divided into Bright, Herbal+Floral, Spicy Hot, Smoky, Spiced,
Rich+Smootth and Earthy and can be ordered in combos that are pre-set as
well. Don't skip this, but don't overdo it; we ordered just right with 6
selections for 6 people.
Peter Koll, one of the managers and
sommelier on duty came over and we decided to have a second bottle of
the yummy Rose as it was indeed so perfect with the spices in the meats,
but as I mentioned we were headed for heavier meats for dinner, he
suggested a divine 2009 Clos Martinet "Martinet Bru" Granatxa/Syrah
blend from Priorat in Spain. The wine opened up after about 20 minutes
in a carafe and was indeed amazing when we finally drank it later.
The
menu is many layered here and it is hard to decide; I will have to
return to try many other items, but I chose MIXED (Pork) GRILLE on
Matt's suggestion. It comes with Whey Brined Tenderloin, Smoked Heart,
three huge cut open bones filled with Marrow, Dandelion Greens and
Pickled Wax Beans. It sounds much bigger than it really is and the
marrow was sublime as was the entire plate. Will fared not as well with
the FOIE GRAS TIGELLE Burger on the famous pressed bread, but the Salt
Cured Torchon with Beef Patties & Peach Chile-Jam was kind of mess
and he declared not that tasty. BUTCHER's CUT was a hit with Charred
Baby Tomatoes, Basil Grits & Lime Zest and Samuel gobbled up his
80DAY AGED RIBEYE rare & sliced very thin Italian beef with a Jus
that had a kick. He did not care for the tasty side of Giardiniere...but
we all tasted his meat and it was the best "Italian" version of the
famous open roast beef sandwich au jus ever.
Many of the items
on the menu come in serving sizes for more than one person and indeed
up to 6 or 8! Two of our guests chose the 2 lb. bone-in RIBEYE with
Citrus Marrow Butter, Shaved Celery and Fresh Horseradish (which served
2-4). While we each has a taste, the entire slab was gone ere long and
all that remained was the foot long "Bam Bam" bone! The Flintstones
never had it so good with their Brontosaurus-burger!
Sides
were amazing here and are worthy as we mentioned about the Beef Fat
Fries. We also adored the Crispy WILD NETTLES with Shallots, Ramps &
Pesto Dressing with Grated Salami, but if you want to keep veggie
there is a superb BRUSSELS SPROUTS Slaw with Horseradish & Grain
Mustard Vinaigrette that packs a kick and is not at all like the sprouts
themselves as they are shaved super thin and laid out flat on the
plate.
Mashed YUKON GOLD POTATOES with Olive Oil were just
that, but the RADISHES & SUGAR SNAPS with Pickled Ginger, Scallion
& Cilantro won my prize for best side.
After
all this you would have thought nobody could eat a bite more. WRONG! It
was a birthday dinner. I ordered up the superb CHEESE which came
with mostarda and honey. The three cheeses on the plate were a 5-Year
Aged Gouda(one of Sam's favorites) and a Blue Baylee from Hayden Vermont
and a Merry-Goat-Round from Virginia...all WINNERS!
Other
desserts arrived including Samuel's FRIED APPLE PIE with Bacon Caramel
Sauce & Candied Pecans; he chose VERY WELL as it was a huge hit and
gone quite fast save for the Vanilla Bean Ice Cream.
The only
thing I did not like about The Partisan is the awful lighting; I was
given flashlights and phones repeatedly to read menus! We were seated in
the front section and the rear section opens into a giant elaborate
room with bar which I think would be nice next time.
Other
desserts included the FERNET Ice Cream FLOAT with Ginger Beer, Lime
Zest, Fernet Branca Ice Cream and Ginger Molasses Cookies on the side.
Alas,
Will bombed again with the BUTTERSCOTCH TRIFLE which is banana bread,
butterscotch pudding, nilla wafers & whuipped cream, but nothing
akin to the English trifle he expected.
SNICKER's
TERRINE with a candle arrived for Sam and was fun with Peanut Butter
Cheesecake, Milk Chocolate-Peanut Caramel & Chocolate Glaze, but our
child stuck to his apple pie as he is not a cheesecake child. Our
soprano, tenor and baritone sang a "Happy Birthday" to beat all, so much
so with all the high notes, that the high noise level of the entire
restaurant went to dead silent to listen and join in. This was oh so
special!
I perused the dessert and before I knew
it Paul arrived with a birthday gift of a Rheinhessen Eiswein 2006
called Nachtgold (Night gold) that was indeed golden honey hued and ever
so yummy. THANK YOU PAUL for making our meal, along with Matt, a truly
wonderful birthday celebration.