you gotta love LIBERTY TAVERN (Arlington, VA)

Sunday night we headed out to dinner with Samuel, his friend Joshua, and Joshua's daddies for a wonderful and filling evening at the new LIBERTY TAVERN in Clarendon (www.thelibertytavern.com) which we will definitely return to again very soon.

The menu from Chef Liam LaCivita offers a mix of Italian, New England (his roots) and more, and it is very hard to decide WHAT to have:pizza, pasta, fish, meat or other! We started with a bottle of KURT ANGERER "KIES" Gruner Veltliner 2005 from Austria full of grapefruit and very refreshing. The wine list is pretty decent and has many good selections in the $30-50 range. We later changed to a FEDUO MACCARI "Re Noto" NERO d'AVOLA 2005 from Sicily which was a medium bodied red with cherry jam overtones. Our final and best wine was a KILIKANOON "Killerman's Ridge" Shiraz 2004 from Clare Valley which the menu described as blackberry with charcoal and very voluptuous, and while we agreed, there was also a strong tobacco essence.

Samuel wolfed down his plain pizza, an amazing $8 or $9 deal with eight HUGE slices (1/2 went home for eating later in the week!). Joshua liked the MAC & CHEESE which came with several side options and he chose fresh fruit which consisted of blackberries, blueberries, strawberries, apple and more--quite impressive for a kid's menu! The bread is made in house and is yummy, especially the brioche style
rolls.

The portions are LARGE from the monstrous FRITTO MISTO appetizer of calamari, clam strips, haddock and fennel all nicely fried with a very rich thick creamy aioli, but just too much. The salads are gorgeous and one of us tried the APPLE ENDIVE which is made with impressive Great Hill Blue Cheese, spicy pecans, tarragon buttermilk dressing and sauteed bacon bits.

Pastas are good too (but they were out of the gnocchi) with BAKED GARGANELLI coming in a smoked tomato cream sauce with pancetta and bufala ricotta "Bella Vitano."

Pizzas are a big hit here and we all loved the AUTUMN PIZZA of wild mushroom, potato, pancetta, rosemary and robiola cheese as well as the ADAM's LINGUICA with crushed tomato, mozzarella, oregano and the now almost famous housemade Linguica sausage (so who is Adam?).

I opted for the "Sunday Dinner" which is a three course fixed price special for an amazing $25 that changes weekly.This week it featured a small (the only small thing on the menu, I think) appetizer of beautifully sauteed MUSSELS with SHALLOTS, WHITE WINE & CHILES.

Luckily it was not too large, because the entree was a monstrous dish entitled NEW ENGLAND "BOLLITO MISTO" which needed more explanation on the menu. It will go on the fall menu this week, we later learned from Chef Liam, and is a dish NOT TO MISS. The fajita style hot plate comes with VEAL CHEEK, VEAL BREAST, COTTOCCHINO (sp?) Sausage and Hangar Steak as well as nice autumn vegetables: Carrots, Turnips, Potatoes.

It is somewhat like a stew, but with a thicker and lesser amount of sauce. The dish was supposed to come with Salsa Verde and Apple Mostarda for dipping a la Bollito Misto style, but somehow it got left behind. It didn't really matter as the meat was so tasty it needed NOTHING. I could not finish the dish and look forward to the leftovers tonight with the sauces which they gave me to take home!

The "Sunday Dinner" came with a gorgeous dessert from taste to presentation of HONEY & VANILLA PANNA COTTA with Caramelized Figs. The two timbales of custard were at opposite ends of a long narrow dish joined by a bridge atop them of simple thin baked pastry like a long cookie. It was all superb and so amazing for only $25 TOTAL!

The boys spotted the RED VELVET Cake earlier at the next table and we gave in allowing them each to have a bite while we munched on the rest/ It is a devil's food cake with Cream Cheese and Meringue Frosting, definitely for cake-aholics.

One of the funnier events of the evening was when I was telling the story of Samuel's night out the week before and how he got the waiter's attention when we wanted ground pepper by yelling, "EXCUSE ME." Well, in my repetition of the story, the maitre d' spotted me and ran over to see what I needed as I waved my hand in the air calling, "EXCUSE ME!" We laughed hysterically as we told the story to him! At least Liberty Tavern has jovial, helpful and attentive service worth going back for!

finally FISH & CHIPS that can't be beat at EAMONN's

Earlier this year, Cathal Armstong, his wife Meshelle and their brilliant team from Restaurant Eve (he is DC winner for Chef of the Year) opened another venue and now have a total of four in Alexandria. EAMONN's, a DUBLIN CHIPPER is located at 728 King Street (just a block off Washington - www.eamonnsdublinchipper.com) and is aptly named for their son. This is NOT your average fast food place, and we were thrilled to finally make it there last night to celebrate Will's birthday (who is at heart a true fish & chips lover from the north of England, where some argue it all started).

There are several wooden tables and benches and an order counter where each order is freshly prepared and fried. Last night, Michael was in charge and he did a fine job (as did the kitchen staff) taking our group's large and confusing order. We had almost everything on the menu and it is a varied one at that from Fried Prawns to Fried Chicken Nuggets (move over McDonald's) which are huge chunks of juicy meat battered and fried to perfection. There are fried burgers too! But one comes here for the traditional FRIED COD (the eatery's motto, emblazoned on the door is "thanks be to cod" which can be ordered in two sizes (get the large) and then smothered with either vinegar or a number of dipping options, which are great on the huge tasty FRENCH FRIES that are simply to die for.

There was a special fish last night and I went for the fresh DEEP FRIED GROUPER which was moist and excellent and very flavorful. While our Brit in residence preferred the simple malt vinegar, I moved from bite to bite with varied sauces as well as the vinegar. There was traditional TARTAR, HOT CHILI (with cilantro and lime), FRONCH (or French Dijon Mustard with mayo), CHESAPEAKE (Mayo and Old Bay Seasoning), a fabulous CURRY sauce which is slightly spicy and slightly sweet and totally reminiscent of those Indian spots in the UK we have visited. It was the two sauces named for women(and I know not why) that grabbed my attention: MARIE ROSE which is ketchup (hence the rose, I guess), mayo, lemon and tabasco for a slight spiciness and the KITTY O'SHEA made from mayo with olives and sundried tomatoes. Imagine dipping each fry in a different one of these and it's like a multi-course tasting menu!

There are exciting and traditional side dishes as well: Chunky COLESLAW is vinegar based and refreshing, the BAKED BEANS are actually imported from Ireland, and also reminiscent of those we have had in the UK. You see, even Heinz Baked Beans taste different in the UK as the ingredients vary over there! These are all very traditional, unsweetened and tasty beans that one seems to find so rarely here in the USA anymore. Finally, the most exciting side to find here in the US is MUSHY PEAS, which is exactly what is sounds like, but tastes a million times better and just doesn't seem to be easily replicated this side of the pond.

There are, of course, beers and two wines available and our beer drinkers seemed happy while the rest of us drank ken Forrester Chenin Blanc from South Africa (an excellent choice with the fried food). There is also a Pinot Noir if you are in a red mood. Non-alcoholic drinkers will find many options including the oh-so-rare Ribena blackcurrant juice.

While we were lucky enough to get a small miniature PINK BIRTHDAY CAKE sent over by our friends at Eve (it is a standard on the menu at Eve), we were all able to divvy it up so everyone got a bite. Speaking of dessert, should you still be hungry, there are a variety of candies available, but you really must go for the FRIED MARS BAR, a delicacy that will guarantee to boost your cholesterol and blood pressure to unseen amounts, but leave you truly in fried chocolate heaven. You can opt between the The FRIED SNICKERS BAR which is saltier from the peanuts, the FRIED MARS BAR or even a FRIED MILKY WAY; all are superb (be careful not to burn your mouth!).

As we left, we were all in agreement, but Will furthered the motion that EAMONN's is the best fish & chips this side of the pond!

new, but not great at NICOLA's (downtown DC)

The Embassy Suites Hotel located at 1250 22nd Street, NW has always had an Italian bistro or restaurant (previously Panevino) which has never gathered much attention. We recently heard that it has been replaced with TRATTORIA NICOLA'S (www.nicolasdc.com) which actually has its entrance on 23rd Street (between M & N Streets). The decor has been beefed up and is most cozy and comfortable with several different levels including a bar with three tv's. (the happy hour and appetizer 1/2 price specials are ONLY at the bar!).

We got a nice booth with Samuel (he is easier to control in a booth) and he started drinking his Shirley Temple and began to bounce off the walls because of the sugar! We ordered a special priced bottle of QUERCETO Chianto Classico 2004 which was nice and modestly robust, but definitely not worth the regular $75 tag (it was marked down to $40).

We got Sam his order of FETTUCINE with MARINARA Sauce and he was most happy when it came and got tons of fresh parmesan grated onto it by our attentive server Hatem. We asked Hatem to put some of the cheese in the olive oil on the table and he quickly returned with some fresh pepper to make a delish dipping oil.

Will ordered the ZUCCHINI FRITTI which came with two sauces, a plain and unexciting marinara and a tasty thick garlic aioli. These were actually delish on their own and even Sam enjoyed tasting it. I was disappointed to find out they were out of the carpaccio, so opted for the CALAMARI FRITTI with the two same sauces. I thought the fresh pepper would be nice on the fritti and started looking for Hatem, and as Sam saw him pass nearby, he yelled out, "EXUSE ME!" and Hatem was there within seconds. It seems that our little boy is becoming a real mensch in the dining out category; maybe he can win a new Rammy for best dining out toddler!

Both of these appetizers were yummy and HUGE, and Sam enjoyed tasting so much that he asked, :Who would like a taste of my pasta?" to which we answered no thank you, but he was insistent! So we did.

Will chose the entree pizza (which was 8 BIG slices for $19) called PIZZA POLLO al PESTO with chicken, pesto, pine nuts, purple onion and goat cheese. It had so much on it that Sam refused to try it, being the simple plain pizza guy that he is. It was so big, we will all be eating leftovers today for lunch; let's see if Samuel eats it then. My SCALLOPPINI di VITELLO al LIMONE was a tender cut of three veal medallions in a tasty piquant lemon sauce with a nice helping of very soft polenta on the side and a serving of broccoli that was so plain it screamed for something.

We decided to head home as the maraschino juice in the Shirley Temple was wearing off and we thought any dessert might aggravate the situation, so we all headed home where Sam gobbled up some jiggly blueberry jello with fresh raspberries.

While we had a very nice time at NICOLA's, I can't say it is excellent, simply good fare and the prices are a bit higher than some other fine spots such as Ristorante Pesto (Woodley Park) that are what i call true local Italian bistros. Of course, these days, Bebo in Crystal City and Alla Lucia in Alexandria offer finer quality food, but in town, this is a nice option.

Help support FOOD & FRIENDS and get pies to eat!!

As you know we are big supporters of FOOD & FRIENDS here in Washington and this year they are offering a wonderful charitable opportunity to ORDER PIES online and also help support their charity! You can buy the pies for yourself, your friends, your clients or even donate them to a FOOD & FRIENDS client in need of food. Below is the information on how to do it!

This season, you can help provide Thanksgiving meals to hundreds of people facing one of life's most difficult challenges by participating in Food & Friends' new Slice of Life event. By taking home a pie for yourself or sending one to a Food & Friends client, you will help to make the holiday season brighter for one of your neighbors living with HIV/AIDS, cancer or another life-challenging ilness. Choose from Apple, Pumpkin, or Signature Chocolate Torte, all baked by local favorite Bread & Chocolate. To order yours today, please visit www.foodandfriends.org/sliceoflife07.

Also, for those of you who like to join us, please save the date for the 2008 FOOD & FRIENDS CHEF's BEST event which will be MONDAY, JUNE 16, 2008.

varying vibes at EXTRA VIRGIN

We have always enjoyed the food and service at EXTRA VIRGIN in Shirlington (Arlington, VA) where we love to go before or after a performance at the new Signature Theater complex across the street. We did just that last night after a short cabaret performance using a certificate we had purchased at a charity auction for a "tasting menu for two."

On arrival we were a bit shocked to see the place heaving at the bar with a jazz band playing quite loudly. We had a reservation and were quickly shown to our table, which we soon moved from to a quieter spot further from the music. I think the a/c was really messed up (perhaps they have no zones), since there were so many people at the bar (where it was clearly turned up)that it was ice cold in the dining area. We ordered a bottle of LA CAPPUCCINA GARGANEGA 2006 from Soave in Veneto that was quite tasty and enjoyed the delicious bread with the olive oil/tapenade mixture that was quickly poured by our server. We showed him the gift certificate and told him the chef could prepare almost anything he wanted, but I think the crowds and bad timing may have severely influenced his choice of what to serve which sadly showed little love or invention. We would have been better off simply ordering off the menu.

A simple field green salad arrived with vinaigrette which was nice, but was so simple it was boring.

Next came a plate split between two pastas (which came out just past lukewarm): the GNOCCHI with MOZZARELLA in Tomato Basil Sauce strained out for fresh ground pepper, which took a while to get, and the VEAL & MUSHROOM Stuffed RAVIOLI in a similar reduction was a much better choice with the ravioli coming out nicely al dente. We moved on to a wonderful deal on the "1/2 price clearance wines" by choosing a 2001 CASTELLO del TERRICCIO "TASSINAIA blend of Sangiovese/Cab/Merlot that was silky with slight to medium tannins and really was amazing at $55!!

Our entrees were a delicious ROCKFISH with ARTICHOKE Hearts in buttery BELL PEPPER COULIS, but nobody seemed to have a clue what it was (we asked THREE people, and our server finally figured it out) with the other being a VEAL SCALLOPINI with BROCCOLI RABE & Mushrooms in a simple and unexciting sauce. Sadly part of once piece of meat was extremely chewy.

We decided to take over for ourselves and told our server we wished to choose our own desserts: PANNA COTTA of LIME with STRAWBERRY Compote was fruity and creamy and not heavy at all, while the TORTA de MELE is a Puff Pastry filled with Caramelized Apples and Pear Sorbet on the side, nice but no prizes.

We left full, but feeling unfulfilled; perhaps a result of the Friday night crowd (the live jazz is apparently there on Thursday THRU Sunday!) and such a hectic scene that there was really not much interest from the kitchen other than moving the tables. Maybe it will improve IF we try again next year.

Getting Hooked on HOOK

It took us almost half a year to get to HOOK, Georgetown's newest hot and heaving dining spot overseen by brilliant young chef BARTON SEAVER (ex of Cafe Saint-Ex) (www.hookdc.com). Hook is definitely worth the visit if you can overcome the whole Georgetown scene, which I personally detest. Parking is a BIG issue and I recommend a 630PM reservation which allow you to pull up right in front at 625pm and obtain the parking permit (there are now parking machines rather than meters here) on M Street for up to 2 hours at 25cents per 15mins or $2.00 for 2 hours. You need only go back outside once during your visit to obtain extra time as fees are required until 10PM!

That said, once inside, my only complaint is the noise levels which rise pretty high once the place is full (that was by 730pm); and I am confident it is full every night! The long narrow restaurant has a bar/high tables at the front with a separate dining room at the rear facing an open kitchen and another room upstairs. The arched ceiling may not help the noise factor, but there is a warm overall feeling to the spot with rough white stucco-like walls dark wood tables (again with those silly gold mats) and very comfy beige leather chairs and banquettes; overall a very modern almost sleek 60's feel due to the light fixtures.

While I am sure many come here for the bar scene or to be seen, we came for the food and left totally satisfied on that account. The menu is simple and highlights fresh FISH starting with sashimi like portions of CRUDO which are $3 each (about 2-3 small bites apiece) or 3 for $8.00. I tried the MACKEREL with Rosemary, Orange Syrup & Chive which was, as expected, an intensely fishy fish. The superb BOQUERONE or ANCHOVIES in Olive Oil and fried Celery Leaf are the simplest and purest, while the WAHOO takes top prize with its HAZELNUT and Lime with coarse Salt creating an almost margarita-like feel to the dressing.

The appetizers are big on fresh salads or combinations thereof with the "signature" (how I hate that term) GRILLED CALAMARI and WARM POTATO SALAD with Basil Walnut PESTO offering up tasty whole pieces of small squids (a bit more pesto would have been welcome) and a heaping portion of the potato salad. A couple of us at the table were underwhelmed by the dish. The GOAT CHEESE STUFFED PEPPERS with Walnuts, Turino Pepper puree and Tomato were called very spice, but really did not pervade more than a couple of seconds on intensity. I think I would have overall preferred just to try all the other crudo options or perhaps one of the interesting (beet) salads.

The wine list overseen by sommelier Francesco is large and varied and gives you many possibilities. We started with a FERRATON GRENACHE BLANC Cotes du Rhone 2005 which exhibited hints of terroir along with acidity from the citrus; a great crudo accompaniment. Next came a wonderful ANSELMI GARGANEGA "San Vincenzo" 2005 from Veneto and our third white was a CORTESE di GAVI 2006 from PIO CESARE (piedmont) which was crisp cold and perfumey. There are so many good whites (and reds too) it is very hard to decide). The bread is also a treat with amazingly fresh TOMATO FOCCACIA and a wonderful Garlic Aioli spread that is neither too thick or creamy, but very tasty and intense. Our second batch of bread was an even better treat with the excellent tomatoes saying goodbye and the Foccacia coming with FRESH ANCHOVIES on top!

As I said, FISH is the word here and the entrees all excelled in the quality and preparation. We listened to our server David and to Chef Barton and ordered four wonderful dishes. The least exciting (tastewise, although the fish was superb) was the MAHI-MAHI with Risotto (which was also excellent). All the other three dishes exhibited much more excitement on the palate from the POLLOCK with CORN-BACON-CHORIZO Stew and Smoky Potato Chips to the amazing BLUEFISH with POTATO-ZUCCHINI Cake and that same yummy BASIL WALNUT Pesto. I think the top hit was my CORN CRUSTED TAUTOG(a sea bass also called wreckfish) with a CABBAGE CARROT-HERB Salad and STEWED SHELL BEANS. Every bite of this dish and indeed, most of the others offered up a new mouthful of pleasure.

We switched to an amazing red wine made by a friend of Francesco's named Elisabetta for FORADORI wines. It was a 2002 TEROLDEGO ROTALIANO that was like drinking a Barbera with a bite. The wine is medium bodied and at an amazing $18 on the menu is a STEAL! It goes great with most fish, especially the involved preparations we had (although perhaps not as well with the lighter Mahi-Mahi).

You can't skip dessert when HEATHER CHITTUM is the pastry chef and there are some new winners here. While the BROWN BUTTER ALMOND CAKE with Black Raspberry Creme Fraiche Sorbet works together, on its own the cake lacks enough moisture. The CHOCOLATE PUDDING PIE with Bitter Chocolate Sauce and Chantilly is great for chocoholics who like PUDDING as that is really what is it. The PEACH CROSTATA with VANILLA Ice Cream and Blackberry Coulis is very sweet, but a good fruit option, while my LINGONBERRY LINZERTORTE will go down in history as one of the top desserts around; indeed I told Heather herself it should be on the National Preservation List! The wonderful torte with its beautiful lattice is accompanied by TALEGGIO CHEESE Ice Cream (with a Port Wine Reduction) that makes the dish the winner it is. The cheese along with the fruit and excellent pastry creates a combination worth of any top prize! What a great way to go home after such a superb seafood celebration!

more dining delights at DINO

As always, we can never seem to stop raving about DINO's on Connecticut Ave. opposite the Uptown Theater. This week we went with friends and their two 4-years olds as well as Samuel as Dino's always has a good pasta dish for kids (amongst others). The kids wolfed down the tasty bread (I love to dip mine in a mix of the olive oil, sea salt, ground pepper and parmesan that i make at the table) and then completely vacuumed up the SPAGHETTI & MEATBALLS. Their GELATO portions for dessert similarly underwent the disappearing act!

Check out Dino's website (http://www.dino-dc.com/) as there are many offers in August and some that continue into September. We took advantage of free corkage on certain days and brought three Virginia wines: BREAUX Viognier 2002, FABBIOLI CELLARS Fratelli 2005 Red and a superb BREAUX 2001 NEBBIOLO.

This week Dino's offers a $30.06 three course "Restaurant Week" special and you can get plenty to eat. I started with the FIORI di ZUCCA or Zucchini Flowers panko crusted and deep fried and stuffed with smoked mozzarella on a bed of tomato coulis and pesto. It was a wonderful remembrance of our recent trip to Italy. The BEET SALAD Special with ROBIOLA Cheese, Heirloom Tomatoes and Greens is a good size and excellent choice for weight watchers.

Entrees included my tasty ARTIC CHAR over Sauteed greens with a CORN & MUSHROOM Nage that was not too rich, but slightly creamy for taste and depth. Heavier dishes are available for those seeking more depth such as the intense LASAGNETTE al RAGU which is a pork & veal ragu lasagna with a rich cheese fonduta and crispy bacon as well. Similarly GRAMIGNA con AGNELLO (Lamb Pasta) is another hearty, but not as rich, dish with those fab heirloom cherry tomatoes again.

For desserts the TIRAMISU got good marks, while I kept simple with two cheeses: GUFFANTI PECORINO Foglie di Noce-a nutty sheep from Tuscany and UBRIACO PROSECCO VENETO aged in walnut leaves with prosecco infusion (hence the name "ubriaco" meaning "drunk"). Both were perfect, slightly hard and with great depth. Served with candied walnuts, some fresh berries, a compote and some fruit bread--it's a great small cheese dessert which can be enlarged should you wish more choices.

It seems that new chef STEFAN BOILLON is off to a good start.

be sure to try TOWN HALL in the 'hood

Ever since Will left SAVEUR as their PR person years ago and the place closed subsequently, we were a bit sad. Last night, after almost two years in business, we took SAMUEL to TOWN HALL (www.townhalldc.com) at 2218 Wisconsin Ave, NW (in upper Geo'town) to find a pleasant and wonderful neighborhood replacement.

Named for the "town" in Georgetown as well as the neighborhood feel, and the "hall" in Hall Place (the neighboring surrounding street) one has a warm feel and neighborly charm with a bit of sport's bar thrown in. While the two flat screen TV's over the bar were quiet yesterday, you might prefer the back room for quieter dining on a busy bar night. The decor is almost more clubby with leather chairs and darker woods and banquettes. Perhaps only the B&W photos on the wall need improvement as they as so small, they can really not be seen from the tables. Add to this a Tuesday night 1/2 wine price policy and a Wednesday night 15% discount for those from the "neighborhood" (loosely defined, but I would think at least the same zip code (20007) would be a minimum requirement) and you really do have an attempt to bring in the locals.

Chef Paul MADRID has put together a varied menu of starters, salads, sandwiches and entrees giving everyone a wide choice. Samuel, of course, chose the SPAGHETTI with TOMATO Sauce which he gobbled up after the requisite Parmesan cheese was provided. We all adored the tasty OLIVE PESTO TAPENADE which comes with Baked Pita Chips instead of bread.

Ah. how nice not to have to pay 1 to 3 Euros for awful bread as a cover charge and to enjoy the bread or alternate as well!

We ordered a refreshing bottle of dry and crisp REGALEALI ROSE 2005 from Sicily. Will and I shared appetizers: GUACAMOLE & TUNA TARTARE with tasty WONTON CHIPS and SOY GINGER DRIZZLES which was also refreshing and while not novel, a hearty and tasty portion. The SPICY JERK BARBECUE "Alcides" WINGS with Mayo Ranch Dipping Sauce are named for one of the guys in the kitchen who came up with the bbq/jerk combo which is not too spicy but packs a nice quick spicy bite that does not linger too long. You will need a fresh napkin (luckily Will had Sam's wet wipes!) after you lick off the sauce from your fingers--it's YUMMY! The wings are meaty and there were about 10 pieces making for a large portion as well.

If you are in the mood for a tasty huge juicy burger, this is a great place to do the $10 BLACK ANGUS 8 ounce BURGER with any toppings you like. Will chose the CHEDDAR CHEESE, MUSHROOMS and BACON and got a huge burger piled high with tasty toppings and a huge plate of fries which were good and tasty, but I have had better. A glass of GNARLY HEAD ZIN from Lodi is a good burger pairing, but not a remarkable Red Zinfandel.

My entree was also a large portion and a truly wonderful combination of flavors and tastes: CORIANDER & BLACK PEPPER Crusted AHI TUNA came in a "bath" of PINEAPPLE RUM GASTRIQUE which was a nice foil of a sauce for the mild pepper on the tuna (I actually added a bit of ground pepper to the beautifully rare slices--that was exactly how I ordered them!). On the side was a COCONUT RISOTTO which was tasty and not really sweet; it reminded me of Asian sticky rice with coconut (perhaps sticky rice would be a good option to pair as well?) topped with Sauteed Spinach.

As you can imagine from the portion sizes we were too full for dessert, and we are really trying to watch our weight after the trip anyway! Believe it or not, at home it's salads and grilled meats, fish and veggies only! Sam gobbled up a scoop of Haagen Dazs Strawberry and we headed home very happy and feeling very welcome in a new (well, for us) neighborhood spot!

Viridian veers to victory with new chef Michael Hartzer

We are back in DC and up and running and had a superb first night out since our return from Europe last week. We had heard that Chef Michael Hartzer previously of Ray's the Classics, Citronelle and the Inn at Palmetto Bluff (in SC) had recently taken over at Viridian (www.viridianrestaurant.com) on 14th Street at P (next to Studio Theater) and we needed to catch up with him and the restaurant as well. Still very white and clean with varying displays of gallery artwork, it gives one a very crisp feel to dine there. Although, the video display now running (over and over and over) above the bar of a house demolition is hardly art to me.

That said Viridian has some great specials on wine on Sundays (ignore the website where it says Sundays & Mondays) as well as discounts for folks in the local zip codes as well on certain nights, not to mention a 3 course prix fixe from 530-7pm. Ask in advance for days and times as they seem to fluctuate.

We started with a Sardinian FUNTANALIRAS VERMENTINO di GALLURA 2005 that was tart and refreshing and a nice pairing with some of the slightly spicy starters.
A brilliant amuse in a champagne glass was GAZPACHO of HONEYDEW with Cucumber, Arugola, Creme Fraiche and Tabasco for a bite. We were ready to go on to more exciting palate pleasers: The SCALLOP ROMESCO is a huge hit with SPICY PEPPER PUREE, thrilling SHERRIED HZAELNUTS (that add wonderful crunch) & Burnt Scallions. The huge "PHO" (play on the Vietnamese style) CHICKEN SALAD is a slow poached chicken with WATERCRESS, SPROUTS, RADISH in a LIME CILANTRO Dressing that is a tru "pho" save for the lack of noodles. This salad could easily be a lunch-size entree, but we gobbled it up with no avail.

The TARTARE DUET has a cylinder of TUNA with Ginger, Tobiko & Cucumber and its partner the BEEF has TARRAGON MUSTARD SAUCE and a boiled Quail Egg served with pita-type crackers and flatbreads that are yummy too. The tartare can be requested as ONLY tuna or ONLY beef as well.

Having just returned from Italy it is hard to ignore the deconstructed WARM CAPRESE TART which has superb tomatoes, ricotta, bufala mozzarella over sauteed RAPINI with Chili Flakes for that slight punch. We were all thrilled that Chef Hartzer is not afraid of spice and uses it so well.

We moved on to a MONTIRIUS VACQUEYRAS 2004 with low tannins and minimum chalk making this an excellent medium to full bodied red. Incidentally, there are many excellent wines in the higher 20$ to mid-$40 range, but the $50-$60 options offer some real treats. We had a COOPER-GARROD FINLEY 2002 California SYRAH that would work with any full bodied dish (meat or fish) which is what Viridian offers; there are also two vegetarian entrees which make a nice treat for you non-meat & fish eaters!

I must also mention the side dishes which are a treat in themselves and not to be missed: CARAMELIZED SALSIFY with COGNAC GLAZE is enough to excite me just in name, but if you try it, you may never eat vegetables another way again! The SAUTEED WILD MUSHROOMS with MANCHEGO CHEESE & Smoked Paprika is also excellent, but unquestionably the biggest hit was the CLASSIC GREEN BEAN CASSEROLE made with French Haricots Verts and baked over with a creamy sauce (remember those cans of Campbell's Cream of Mushroom soup your mom used!), Brandy and topped with BUTTERMILK FRIED SHALLOTS, a true treat and BIG improvement over the Durkee Canned Fried Onion Rings!

The entree portions are large, satisfying and oh so tasty: RARE Rack of VENISON is grilled on the Chop with a GIN & JUNIPER VERMOUTH Jus (ala martini) and served with ALMOND, TARRAGON, Shaved FENNEL & Orange Salad. The STRIPED BASS has CELERY and SMOKED Crunchy BACON with a slightly spicy LUMP CRAB ARABIATA, Celery Root Coulis and Crispy Capers making it a wonderful combinations of flavors and textures. The SNAPPER is beautifully prepared as a skin-on fillet with
a STIR FRY of OYSTER & BEECH MUSHROOMS, "Thai" peanut, SPROUTS, COCONUT MILK and JALAPENO Coriander Puree all reminiscent of Chef Hartzer's take on "pad thai" but again without the noodles.

While I might avoid the sorbets at dessert the ITALIAN CITRUS CAKE with Orange Cream and Fresh Oranges is a novel and exciting treat; not too sweet or cloying, yet refreshing and quite different. The BLACKBERRY CRUMBLE will be shortly renamed as it is more of a trifle than a crumble, rich with whipped MAPLE CREAM, Vanilla Ice Cream and Fresh BLACKBERRIES, it is nonetheless tasty. The PEACH & CHEVRE TART is a Chevre based cheesecake with delicious grilled & glazed peaches and BASIL Anglaise, making it, too, another novel and tasty dessert. Viridian rings up a victory for all of us! and we can't forget the excellent service we received from MARY!

I forgot to mention the focaccia comes with yummy olive butter and a roasted potato and garlic puree.

Venice-vying for your Euros but not so much at VINI da GIGIO

Venice is renowned for being a VERY EXPENSIVE location to eat, shop, live or breathe these days, so it's nice to find some deals around. The first night we hit a famous "family" spot called VINI da GIGO just behind the San Felice Church (seconds from the Ca d'Oro) which is a true local experience, especially when it comes to seafood. The local drink reminiscent of Campari is APIRIL served with a spritz and works fine on a hot summer night to refresh the palate. The ANTIPASTO MISTO SPECIALITA VENEZIANE offers up some spider crab (watch for shells), White Polenta(they don't use yellow here), a Fried FISH BALL made from creamy MONKFISH, yummy SARDINES and ONIONS, a small size scallop however served with its rare and SUPER-TASTY CORAL, and SMALL local SHRIMP on POLENTA with a drizzle of balsamic (Will's favorite). BIGOLI in SALSA is a local pasta specialty that is served everywhere and offers larger than spaghetti pasta served with an intense and tasty sauce made from anchovy & onion, however, it is a pure sauce and there are no whole bits of either ingredients found therein.

A SOAVE CLASSICO CALVARINO 2004 from Pieropan started us offer using the wonderful local Veneto region wine and we moved on to super aromatic COLLIO BIANCO from Friuli region 1999/2001 mixed vintages from La Castellana winery that had the oddest hint of coconut milk (which we all liked!). Our final wine was a light red--the regional SCHIOPPETTINO Riserva 2993 from ANTICO BROILO in Fruili as well. It was a great match for my SEPPIE ALLA VENEZIANA another very local dish of SQUID served in a rich squid ink sauce over White Polenta. Everyone else loved their fish dishes as the were so fresh and simply prepared.

Desserts were quite good as well with a CREMA CATALANA that is akin to Creme Brulee but may be the best we have ever found anywhere?? A simple LIMONCELLO chiffonade drink was nice, but hardly filling while the BERRY TART with CREME ANGLAISE made me happy, and others adored the SEMIFREDDO of CHOCOLATE with Berry Sauce and Hazelnut!!

Super kudos to our warm and welcoming waitress who was a dream and anticipated our every need.

living for life and love of food at LINEA d'OMBREA in Venice

Our final grand dining night in Venice was still a day away from departure, but our last dinner was a family one with Samuel and not worth mentioning. With our dearest friends, Mel & Juan, we headed to LINEA d'OMBRA (www.ristorantelineadombra.com) in Dorsoduro with a gorgeous view over the lagoon and yachts at harbor. We had made this final one month vacation farewell dinner through our friend Fabrizio Aielli in Washington who hails from Venice and as we discovered was born just meters away on the island of Giudecca. We are grateful to him, his friend, Marco and maitre d' Alberto who all made our evening an even more special treat. Getting to Linea d"ombrea is much harder than it should be depending on the time ofv year. It is only a stone's throw from Piazza San Marco, but it is right across the Grand Canal, which has no bridges at all except a 15 minute walk back up the canal (making for an over 35 min. walk). We had hoped to take the Traghetto, which is a gondola service that operates across the canal at various points where there are no bridges, like a ferry. We walked to the Traghetto station and a real rude guy told us the traghetti stop at 2pm! I tried to ask why, but he kept cutting me off. He and a gondolier finally said that if we wanted to get across we could pay 100Euros ($140) for the 2 minute crossing on a gondola! We proceeded to the vaporetto (water bus) stop and took it one stop across the canal for 6 Euros($8.40) per person...or a total of $34 for the four f us for a 2 minute ride! Someone needs to rethink the prices when
folks are only going one stop!

We arrived within minutes walking to the restaurant and immediately were warmly greeted by Alberto and all the staff for a very wonderful "last supper."

We wanted a prosecco, but had been disappointed with many we had tasted recently, so Alberto brought out a Spumante from CA' RUGANTE called "FULVIO BEO" from the Veneto region that was so amazingly like a French yeasty champagne with which we were all in love. Sadly, this wine is not available on the market and virtually ALL of the minimal production makes it to this restaurant!

It was impossible to decide on what to eat, so we decided to share a number of appetizers (antipasti), shar pastas(primi piatti) and then proceed with our entree (secondi). The first to arrive were plates of excellent quality raw seafood from the nearby Adriatic. Alberto insisted that Venice created the idea of raw seafood or sashimi style, not Japan; we did not argue. On the plate were branzino (sea bass), bluefin tuna, swordfish (which I had never had raw before and adored), scallop tartare and two types of prawns: the local Ciannocca (called Panocchia elsewhere in Italy) which was bizarre as we could not seem to separate it from its shell, and the much easier to nhandle scampi. With this came a plate called "grilled chrome" as it was prepared on the very hot chrome grill and included Scampi, Baby cuttlefish, scallops and a cream of celery to cut the burn on the grilling. These were all served with an amazing SANCIN MALVASIA 2005 from Friuli that was super-aromatic and almost creamy yet soft and perfect with the raw fish.

Next came the house specialty (it has even been written up in the NY Times): a MILLEFEUILLE of SCAMPI and ONIONS "Saor" Style with Green APPLE & Raisins. This has a somewhat sweet and sour antithesis going for it, but in the sense of what we call Chinese "sweet & sour sauce." We all agreed the dish was one of the most interesting combinations of ingredients and one of the best dishes we EVER had anywhere. Alberto asked if he could pair it with a rare wine called BUCCIATO made from the Garganega grape. We said "sure" and were blown away by the CA' RUGATE 2004 from VENETO that may have been the best pairing of wine and food in existence. There is an apple essence in the wine, but the food not only mimics this it complements it with the sweet onion and raisin elements.

Next came the pasta courses which were also sublime. We chose our favorite named pasta, STREZZAPRETI ("strangled priest") with SCAMPIU, PINE-NUTS & BASIL while Mel & Juan Chose the TAGLIONE with SICILIAN RED SHRIMP, Lemon Skin and Mint. For wine, Alberto suggested we try an amazing magnum of BENANTI Bianco Superiore from PIETRA MASINA 2003 at 400 meters up the slopes up Mt. Etna in Sicily. The grape was mostly Carricante and it really had an amazing mineral nose and taste, a true wine of terroir that reminded us of our wonderful days in Sicily earlier on the cruise and really just brought everything on this vacation full circle. It's really odd, but I am starting to choke up just writing this; the entire experience was so awesome.

Our entrees were less varied since three of us opted for the FILET OF SWORDFISH with e Reduction of COINTREAU and Fresh FIGS and WILD PEACHES. This was a perfect summer fish dream dish come true, and again the wine pairing was perfect. teh BITES OF SAUTEED TUNA with AUBERGINES(actually Melanzane Affungetto-eggplant) and Puree of CELERIAC was also quite excellent.

We could not even think of leaving without trying desserts, and we were happy we did. The TIRAMISU got rvaves and came with gelato to boot, while my CHEESECAKE with Chocolate was no less entrancing. Dessert wine came in the form of MUEGGEN Moscato Passo di "Pantelleria" 2002 from Salvatore Murau in Sicily--again closing our recent new love of the island, and also finding a new dessert wine we must try again.

I have one more report from Perugia..but that must wait until my return home as I am now in Munich Airport with Samuel and we board for DC soon!

CIAO BELLI!

a lucious lakeside lunch at LUCIANO in Passignano on Lago di Trasimento

We had a relatively quiet day today as we checked out of our luxury hotel (The Brufani Palace) in Perugia after a yummy buffet breakfast (all those tasty dried meats and cheeses and pates and pastries!) and decided to take it easy. We headed for LAGO TRASIMENO a huge lake in the center of Italy in Umbria (but very close to Tuscany) and opted to lunch at LUCIANO which is in the tiny town of Passignano on the north shore of the lake. It faces the lake and has a wonderful local ambience (with many Italians dining there to boot!). Sam had (guess what?) the Penne Pasta with Tomato Sauce while Will opted for the fabulous LINGUINE con TARTUFO (the exquisite black truffles of the region) and I could resist the mini fixed price lunch for 16 Euros which has several options. I started with a BRUSCHETTA of Local LAKE FISH which was a tasty perch rich with olive oil and seasonings. The entree was a LINGUINE with Local Fish as well and was a superb blend of tasty seasonings. Gelato was around the corner at the usual 1,50Euro per cup with two flavors for each of us...and we keep trying new ones. Today the hit was White Chocolate, while Same kept to Strawberry, but this time adding our new favroite sorbetto LIMONCELLO.

Palazzo Terranova (Umbria, Italy) takes a prize for mountain diningand LUXURY!

While we returned from our month in Europe earlier this week, I still have on amazing report to give. This very special place can only accommodate overnight guests as the road to the palace at the top of a mountain (well, big hill at 500 meters=over 1500 feet) is long, dirt, and one lane! So you must contact me to book the hotel for you overnight and have the amazing opportunity to visit and dine at PALAZZO TERRANOVA.

Restored to its original 18th century splendor less than a decade ago this magnificent villa sits atop the Apennine foothills on the Tuscan border of Umbria. The closest cities in Tuscany are medieval Cortona & Arezzo to the west and in Umbria to the east are Perugia(only 45 minutes away) and Gubbio. The closest small towns are Morra and Ronti with Citta di Castello 20+ minutes east. If you are in central Italy this luxurious palazzo is a destination not to be missed for its beauty and views atop the mountains, but also for its fine food and excellent service. There are only 10 rooms, yet the hotel offers an infinity pool, gym, spa services and even babysitting amongst many other amenities nearby (horseback riding,golf, tennis). Each beautiful room is named after an opera and quite beautifully appointed down to the wonderful Bulgari soaps!

The dining room, as I said, is open for lunch and dinner for hotel guests only (breakfast is included and is served in the breakfast room or on the terrace--we enjoyed ours as the morning fog rolled in below us and the sun shone above; we felt as if we were in heaven!) and is simple but has an antique feel with candelabra, huge fireplace, large tables and chairs. The night we stayed the hotel was almost full, yet only 5 tables were used accommodating four couples and a family of 6. As we went down to supper just before 8pm, we sat on the magnificent terrace to catch the setting sun's rays sipping Campari & Tonic with the local snacks of Umbrian PECORINA and honey (to dip it in) with fresh local ALMONDS.

We moved inside, and as always, not pacing ourselves ordered antipasti, primi and secondi. As we saw the food coming in monstrous portions around us, we quickly called over the maitre d' Giovanni and begged him to cancel one of our secondi (entrees) which we decided then to split.

We ordered a bottle of ROSSO di MONTEFALCO 2004 from CAPRAI having enjoyed this Umbrian red so much the previous days. This particular version has a 70% Sangiovese (the grape of Chianti) mixed with 15% Sagrantino and a 15% blend or Merlot and Cabernet, making it a big bigger than some other Montefalcos. A gorgeous amuse of FIOR di ZUCCHINI FRITTI (fried Zucchini flower in batter) came in a tomato & black olive sauce and was stuffed with a creamy rich and totally decadent MOZZARELLA & ANCHOVY filling. This amuse did give us an idea of what was to come, and we were happy we had chosen red wines and then proceeded to cancel one entree...as BIG & FILLING seemed to be on the menu here. When I say "big & filling," I must also add rich and also qualify that this was all top quality local food much of which was actually grown right in the gardens of the palazzo (which even sported several alpacas roaming nearby!).

We had always enjoyed the amazing "burrata" here in DC flown in from Italy to Dino's Restaurant, but we were not ready for the same day fresh and blow your mind BURRATA CON VERDURE GRIGLIATE e PESTO that arrived for both of us. The mozzarella was the finest ever and of course, HUGE as well. The soft center filling was melt in your mouth delish, and the accompanying grilled zucchini, eggplant and veggies were lightly drizzled with a tasty pesto.

Will opted for the TAGLIATELLE all'UOVO con RAGU d'ANATRA which we know and love at home as Homemade egg tagliatelle with duck ragout, and while it was tasty, it needed just a bit more ragout. My SPAGHETTI alla CARBONARA con SALSICCIA d'UMBRIA was heavenly and truly one of the best Carbonaras ever (the other having been the one we tasted on our last night in Rome!) It was sprinkled generously with local Umbrian sausage and wonderful pieces of local bacon. Rich, creamy, and total overload is the only way one can describe this amazing preparation. We asked for a long rest as began to enjoy our second red, a truly magnificent and velvety NOBILE di MONTEPULCIANO (another great wine town that is close by over the Tuscan border) SIMPOSIO 2001 from Angelini. This is a wine to buy and drink now or later as the balanced tannins make it just one of the best red wines around!

We took a long break before our entree arrived, the daily special of STRACCETTI di MANZO al ROSMARIO con CIPOLLE ROSSE di TROPEA, a saute of beef loin strips scented with rosemary and braised in the famous local red onions of Tropea with red wine and a hint of raspberry. The onions were sublime as was the sauce, only the meat suffered a hint from being a bit overcooked and dry; a solution which we should have anticipated and asked for the meat medium rare! I know that we were so full, that we could not even think of dessert, but Will asked for a simple "bite" of chocolate and received a huge plate of fresh chocolate hunks!

Incidentally, I must add that while we were dining downstairs, Samuel was doing the same thing in our room above. After a swim and a bit of relaxing ion the afternoon, the chef came to the room at 6pm to ask what Samuel liked to eat. About an hour later, Giovanni returned with a cart full of treats including the most gorgeous local garden field greens salad loaded with fresh tomatoes and yellow and red peppers (all from their gardens). His entree was a perfectly and simply prepared fillet of fresh fish (we never did find out what kind) over a bed of fresh sauteed French beans (although, these were clearly Italian and local!). He was one very happy camper with his room service and so were we. We all hope to return to PALAZZO TERRANOVA someday and I hope that I can help you ALL get there as well!

Bravo to LA BASTIGLIA in the teeny weeny town of Spello near Assisi

One of mour best meals in Italy was had last night as we drive to Spello (30 mins from Perugia and about 10 mins from Assisi) to discover the single Michelin-starred LA BASTIGLIA. We were lucky our car was not too wide, as one has to traverse the town's medieval gate and walls and make way through narrow stone streets to find a grogeous view over the valley from the outdoor terrace of this wonderful spot. Sadly, it had rained part of the day, and the weather was iffy, so we dined inside in an eclectic old-style room with lots of artwork both modern and ancient. The star last night was, however, the food of chef MARCO GUBBROTTI, who incidentally was the first chef in any restaurant we have dined at in Italy to come around and greet the guests after dinner!

We started with a wine from Spello itself the VILLA FIDELDIA blend of Chardonnay and Grachetto (the local white grape of Umbria) 2004 from Sportoletti Winery which was a French style chardonnay with an amazing flavor that works with so many dishes.

The amuse was a four-in-one with a Fresh fig and slice of prok cheek (cured and cooked like bacon) wedged into ir; a wtaermelon jelly with mussel and licorice that was quite tasty and had only a hint of licorice so as not to displease me; a melon & bottarga (Sicilian raisin and dried fish egg) shooter(!!!) that was totally refreshing and tasty; and a Raw Local Salami wrapped in paper thin cucumber. All of these were clear cues that what was to come would be a truly wonderful experience in local Umbrian cuisine. Chef Gubbrotti prides himself on modern cuisine, but uses only the ingredients native to Umbria and Italy to their best possible advantage. Our tasting menu at an amazing 60-something Euros started with TUNA THREE STYLES: Raw tartare served in a cylcinder on apple and vegetables diced so small we could not decipher what they all were with fresh fennel and fennel flower as well for an added burst of taste; SMOKED with PISTACCHIO crust and served with a grated flash frozen BUFALA MOZZARELLA which came out like a fluffy parmesan but with mozzarella taste(an ingenious treatment to a fabulous cheese); STEAMED in a mini-jam jar with EXTRA VIRGIN OLIVE OIL. It was hard ti choose which was my favorite since all three were so good, but I think the Smoked with Pistacchio & Mozzarella won first place for taste and ingenuity as well.

Next came PIGEON with a Roasted Breast and a Rare(cooked rare that is) Salami (of Pigeon) formed into a crucifix(!!!) with a salad of cooked mixed cherries. Again the use of fresh spices abounded with spicy mint, rosemary, fennel flower and more.The dish was another coup (although I wish I had a light red for this course).

We moved on to a wonderfully presented TOMATO SOUP with basil and a cylinder pilaf of thinly shaved OCTOPUS and RICE in the middle. The octopus was so tender and the soup was the best tomato (which I am not a big fan of) that I have ever had. The bowl looked like it had been made from Sister Bertrille's nun's hat in the Flying Nun with a big hollow in the center for the soup.

Our red wine was another dreamy local treat from the local organic winery of Paolo BEA, a 2003 MONTEFALCO ROSSO (the bottle was actually numbered due to small production-we got #1996) which here was a blend of 70% Sangiovese,15% Sagrantino and 15% Montepulciano. With this deep intense red we started the heavier courses with a superb ROASTED GOOSE RAVIOLI with a sauce of Celery, Citara Anchovies (very mild from Napoli) and Pantelleria Capers. The entree of ROAST SUCKLING PIG was both a success and a disappointment with a PORCHETTA TERRINE made from the pig, and served on a SWEET PEPPER GATEAU. The roast pig itself was a nice piece but served without anything and abit simple and dry with Raw Vegetable Pinzimonio-a local treatment of crudite served with extra virgin olive oil, salt & pepper.

With dessert we were back in the swing with APPLE on "THREE" consisting of ANNURCA APPLE SORBET, TATIN of GOLDEN APPLE and SABLE of WALNUTS with GREEN APPLE. The Sable (shortbread-like) cookie was super with the apple as were both of the other treatments, and a glass of young calvados was graciously added on the side! As if this were not enough, next came a BANANA SORBETTO with Honey and ALCHERMES(?) which was a rich creamy and caramel-like treat. I was told the difference between sorbetto and gelato is the addition of eggs, but this banana sorbetto tasted more like rich gelato to me! Of course, more tasty treats arrived and we gobbled them all up to keep us going for the 30 minute ride back to Perugia in the rain. A refreshing icy ALMON MILK Shooter was a real cleanser, but we returned to rich and creamy with a PANNA COTTA of ROSEMARY & CHOCOLATE. The spongy AMARETTI Cookies were lighter than air and were the best I have ever had. Small FRUIT Biscuits and DARK CHOCOLATES (which Will insisted looked like male sex organs) rounded out the adorable plates. I must say that despite the small piece of dry pork, the entire meal, service and experience wins an A+ from us both.

prepare for PERUGIA--the center of Italy and heart of her cuisine

We are here in the center of Italy in Perugia for two nights and last night we headed to a small local eatery with Samuel which was simply excelllent (I think probably anything here is like that), La LOCANDA DEGLI ARTISTI is located just outside the Porte Erculano at Via Campo Battaglia 10 and offers both outside and quaint inside seating. As this was the first night in over three weeks abroad that the temperature had dipped below 70, we opted to head inside. Our servers were helpful and friendly. Samuel insisted that his simple (yes, again) Pizza Margherita was the best he had ever had in his whole life. While, I felt that Rome's pizza was better, he is entitled to his own opinion. We started with a bottle of CASTELLO de MAGIONE MONTERONE 2006 GRECHETTO which is as local as you can get here in Umbria (Perugia is the capital) and it was crisp, refreshing and wonderful with the CROSTINI al TARTUFO, which were slices of bread (a bit too hard for me) with a bruschetta topping made from the amazing local black truffles (along with some parsley and garlic). The plate of mixed meats came with local salami, the local prosciutto nad bresaola all of which were spectacular.

Will and I split the local pasta special, UBRIACELLI (sp?) all NORCINA which were spinach and wheat thicker than spaghetti pasta with a magnificent cream-black truffle-sausage sauce that was to die for. We switched to a superb red from Domenico Pennachi SAGRANTINO di MONTEFALCO "Terre di Capitani" 2003 that was intense but not tannic and had a slight sweetness as well, but not like a sweet wine--more like sweet cherries and chocolate--thing BIG chianti without the tannins.

Our first choice for entrees was the Beef with arucola and balsamic (another local specialty) that they were out of, so we had the simple grilled VEAL CHOP that was superb, but nothing spectacular, though we did adore the local rustic and spicy SALSICCE (Sausage) before we headed home without dessert as we were so full. Sam did enjoy a big bowl of yummy PEACH Gelato.

On our second night, we headed about 30 minutes east, just past Assisi to the town of SPELLO to discover the Michelin-starred LA BASTIGLIA in the hills of this beautiful tiny town.--more on this later.

Palermo-old style Sicilian at Osteria Altri Tempi

Our cruise is now finished, but we visited some amazing and wonderful places, foremost of which I wish to return to is Sicily. Sadly, we only had one lunch there and many of the restaurants seem to be either closed for summer break in August, and if not, on Tuesday!

We finally chose OSTARIA ALTRI TEMPI (roughly translates to Old Style Inn) in downtown Palermo at Via Sammartino 65/67 which was great because for 20 Euros each we got unlimited table wine, bottled water (which is first poured into a carafe, making it seem very suspicious, but we later found out that this is quite common), and the most wonderful array of antipasti. The setting is small with arched ceilings and lots of local older Sicilians hanging around chewing the fat; there is also an outdoor area in front if you don't mind the heat and the street noise.

While the Cartilage Salad was the least pleasing, it was NOT awful, just a bit chewy. The MARINATED FAVA BEANS were a treat as was the Eggplant CAPONATA, and I truly don't like eggplant. It was superb; loaded with onions and seasoning. Fresh SUN DRIED TOMATOES with Local Cheese was so good, we asked them to pack up a tray to take back to the ship which we served all around the dining room at dinner to great acclaim. A seafood salad had clams, mussels, octopus, calamari and more, and I seem to have forgotten the several other items that just seemed to keep coming. A plate of tempura-like cauliflower and slices of fried dough from chick peas came after all this, so we had to ask our server to simply give us the pasta that followed and nothing further as we were filling up fast.

Two pasta dishes arrived with local long hollow spaghetti (bucatini) and a sauce of eggplant on one and cauliflower and pine nuts on the other (that we were instructed to sprinkle breadcrumbs on, not cheese--this is because in the 19th century Sicilians were so poor they could not afford grated cheese for their pasta and used breadcrumbs instead!). These were true old style dishes of the Sicily of the 19th-early 20th century.

As if this were not enough, along with the coffee came a plate of cookies and little strawberry and lemon sorbetto scoops each decorated and served in small paper thimble. Watermelon arrived as well with three chilled bottles of local liqueur: the always loving Limoncello, a Bay Leaf drink that was sweeter and tasty, and a very licorice- tasting Fennel liqueur. We were rolled back to our minivan tour, but will never forget the wonderful warmth we enjoyed at this adorable spot and in Sicily in general.

Barcelona's tops in tapas: CERVESERIA CATALANA / fishing for food in Palma de Mallorca at LA DORADA

As we have been at sea almost 3 weeks now, I am virtually losing track of the dates unless I look at today's on my digital watch. Last week we spent two days in Spain, the first of which was in Barcelona. We specifically told our guide we wanted tapas and he steered us to the excellent CERVERSERIA CATALANA at Carrer Mallorca just off the Rambla de Catalunya, a block from the fashionable shopping street of Passeig de Gracia.

It was an excellent choice, and while we ate many items that we had no idea of what they were, everything was superb. Highlights were the BOQUERONES ANDALUZA, fresh marinated anchovies, the amazing sauteed cod in garlic sauce and the salad of cod (bacalao) almost like a ceviche. I wish I could relate more, but we moving so fast touring all day, that I really could not take proper notes.

The next day we found ourselves at the small seaside town of Port d'Andratx in Mallorca (the Balaeric Isalnds) dining at LA DORADA (Avenida Mateo Bosch 31B) overlooking the port and sea. We thought we were in for a touristic nightmare, but the food was excellent. I started with a brilliant PASTEL DE CAP ROIG or pate of scorpionfish which was tasty with a yummy garlicky aioli and a large fresh salad on the side. I forgot to mention the bread comes with this super aioli and some of the tastiest green olives around(they apparently come from some of the oldest olive trees), and the tomatoes on the salad were almost like the heirlooms we get back home--of the best quality. Other folks liked the Gazpacho and, PRAWNS with GARLIC SAUCE as we downed two tasty dry white local wines: JAUME MESQUIDA Blanc and a slightly fruity MACIA BATLE Blanc de blancs.

The entrees were also excellent from a wonderful moist BACALAO GRATINADA with a huge piece of fresh fish in a creamy sauce not too heavy on the cheese and my PARILLADA de PESCADO y MARISCOS a huge platter which could easily feed two (I shared lots) of grilled frsh fish and shellfish. There were clams, mussles, pranws, crab claws, tasty halved langoustines and huge pieces of SILVIOLA, a superb local whitefish and MEGLUSA, more like a flaky swordfish full of amazing
flavor from the superb local olive oil. While this place is only 20-30 minutes from the capital of Palma de Mallorca, it was easily worth the drive,

Today we are finally back in Italy on our cruise which nears an end in two days.

munching in MONACO--cuisine at CASTELROC

On our day ashore in Monaco earlier this week we were so lucky to be able to plan to meet my dear client and friend, mezzo-soprano Jennifer Larmore and her darling sisters (they are ALL THREE darling!) Kathy & Wendy. While touring the town, we ended up at the Place du Palais in front of the Prince's Palace right after the 11:55AM changing of the guard. The top recommended place around fro dining is CASTELROC which turned out to be a real treat, and 1/2 the price of the previous day's awful lunch at La Posta Vecchia and this was for SIX people instead of FOUR! Indeed Sam's STEACK HACHE (hamburger) and FRITES (Fries) was a superb burger seasoned and cooked to perfection and included an ice cream for an amazing 11 Euros (quite a deal compared to several pieces of bland pasta the day before for 50% more!).

The location is right on the square facing the palace and the sea with breezes flowing and a wonderful terrace setting that was still classy with linens and crystal (I loved the odd oblong water glasses!). We all chose local plates of small Monagesque (not, Monacan, please) specialties. Mine included a selection of them all featuring a Spinach quiche with flaky amazing pastry various "petits farcis" or onion, zucchini and tomato with stuffing and the truly native BARBAGUIANS a beignut pastry like bowtie filled with spinach. The plate was completed by another tasty local dish of farina or cous-cous mashed into a thick French fry like oblong. A delicious Rose and the best butter and fleur de sel (salt) for the bread filled us up. Even the coffee (cafe au lait) was superb and came with a plate of fabulous chocolate mini-souffle like muffins and mini-palmiers (flaky Elephant ears).

Yesterday's pizza in Pisa was good but uneventful and tomorrow we will hopefully have a tapas report from Barcelona!

ALAN at sea somewhere south of the French Riviera.

pass on LA POSTA VECCHIA on the Italian coast of Lazio near Rome

Today, as we had a break between two 10-day back-to-back cruises in the Italian port of Civitavecchia here on the Italian coast of the Tyrrhenian Sea we decided to visit LA POSTA VECCHIA just 30 minutes away (and less than an hour from Rome, and under 30 minutes from the Rome Airport as well. This property attracted me due to this wonderful seaside location and the fact that the 17th century Post House was owned by J. Paul Getty until it became a luxury hotel of some 19 rooms. It sits next to a castle on the coast and is truly a gorgeous setting.

Lunch, however, was not as enjoyable an experience as it should have been. While Sam gobbled up his PENNE al POMODORO, I was in shock with the 15euro ($21+) for a child's portion that was extremely small to boot. We loved the delicious homemade breads especially the Rosemary Focaccia with nice large chunks of sea salt, and the delicious JALE Chardonnay from SICILY was a superb reminder of our first visit to this exciting and fabulous island the day before (sadly, we had no time to dine on Sicily--just grab pastries and do a quick wine tasting on the slopes of Mt. Etna--where we had some of the best coffee ever at the summit!). Anyway, The amuse can be described as odd at best and a sad foreshadowing of what was to come. The chef has a penchant for the now passe in the USA "foam thing" and we got a tomato skin in a foam of mozzarella that simply had no taste and was quite boring. If this was an amuse, I wanted no more amusement.

The ROMBO e GAMBERONE appetizer was described as a carpaccio of shrimp with other items and peach as well...it was mushy and totally disgusting in texture.

The ACCUIGHE FARCITE BACCALA was anchovy with cod that was much better, but one must consider the former priced as an appetizer at 23 euros ($32+) to be a rip-off. We tried the pastas as entrees and the GNOCCHI di RICOTTA were quite nice, but no prize winner, another pasta (I can't remember the name) was bland and quite small, while my TAGLIOLINI were coated with a superb cheese sauce making it the winner of the day in a meal that was so sad for the most part.

Finally, the sticker shock would have set in for even Mr. Getty with a 2 scoop gelato dessert for Samuel costing 15Euros ($21+) and the entire bill for four adults and Sam came to 258 Euros with beverages or a cool $363 (or about $90 per person for under 2 courses each) which I have actually NEVER spent on a 2-course lunch before even at JOEL ROBUCHON in Paris!

As we sail away, I can only hope for better prices and food in Monte Carlo for lunch tomorrow!

PROTO-dining in Dubrovnilk for $$$$

Our first port on this 20 day Mediterranean voyage was DUBROVNIK, which I think anyone would fall in love with instantly. After a three hour walking tour and another 1/2 hour on the city walls in the 95 degree heat we were ready to chow down.

I had several suggestions from tour books, magazines and even the on-board port lecturer. We decided to listen to our private guide (which I WON'T DO next time) and dine at PRONTO in the center of the Old City. A simple wooden ceiling restaurant with linens, china and good service, we were in extreme shock when we saw the prices on the menu. Yes, the kuna (local currency) is 5.4 to the dollar, but when the appetizers are all over $10 and entrees tending to $30 and up for lunch in a city when the huge ice cream cone is under $2,00 it is daunting to say the least.

Luckily, the food was excellent. As always, the "cover" includes bread for about $3.00, but here also included a simple amuse of a small piece of bread with marinated anchovy, lemon, olive and tomato that was a true amuse...a hint of what was to come--excellent seafood. The wine was a POSIP KRAJANCIC dry aromatic Croatian white from the region that excels in wine (this IS where Mike Grgich, the famous Napa winemaker came from!). was tasty, but we had no clue what type of varietal or what it was akin to. The waitress said it would be great

with our seafood choices, and she WAS right on. The COLD OCTOPUS Salad featured tender large cylinders of meat with olives, tomato, potato and olive oil and while simple truly accented the fish itself. The SCAMPI ADRIATIC STYLE was served with Melon and Avocado, which apparently is eaten in small rock-hard scoops locally, something I can still not fathom, as when I tried to chew it I was forced to spit it out; rubber is not my favorite consistency for avocado. I would love to know if any of you know any Croatian folk that can verify this odd culinary fact? The sauce was a light mayo base with dill. The cheese platter had gorgeous olive-oil drenched SUN DRIED TOMATOES and two types of cheese: a crumbly OLIVE OIL CHEESE (that we never did get a name for) and a magnificent harder cheese from the nearby island of PAG that was a local treat, especially for us.

The entree of SHRIMP ADRIATIC STYLE was completely different from the "Scampi Adriatic Style" starter above and had larger local shrimp in a tomato-based almost puttanesca (slightly spicy) style with super polenta and a drizzle of balsamic over the top of that. We had more touring so skipped dessert and had wonderful (though not as good as Italy) gelato (the melon and green apple choices were refreshing) around the corner!

Congrats to CAMPONESCHI (7/19/07)-Rome's perfect pizza at La BRUSCHETTA

Our final night in Rome took us to the elegant CAMPONESCHI situated on the beautiful Piazza Farnese which has special significance to me being an opera fanatic. It was in the Palazzo Farnese (now the French Embassy) facing our table (as we sat outside) that in Act II of Puccini's opera Tosca that our heroine stabbed to death the evil Baron Scarpia. I completely felt the drama as children played in the piazza and we glanced around at the various historic buildings.

Our meal was indeed an operatic production as we were treated to some of the best olives on earth (marinated with lemon and pepper) and the most amazing Bufala Mozzarella that was bathed in heavy cream as we sat down. After a tasty Campari & Tonic, we tried a tasty VERMENTINO di GALLURA 2006 from Sardegna (Sardinia) that is made from the FUNTANALIRAS grape varietal that was another refreshing white wine we felt was just right to start a meal with. The bread seemed to fare better here than in many other places as well. The tables were covered with thick ivory linens and a silver charger with a doily was at each place with handsome china and crystal as well. I had forgotten to mention that the crystal the previous night was pretty inferior and that even at lunch yesterday my simple glass of white table wine was served in a decent glass at the RISTORANTE di CAMPO di FIORE just a block away. Indeed on a sidebar, yesterday's lunch, while quite pricey, was truly a treat. Samuel wolfed down PENNE alla POMMODORO (that's Italian for Tomato Sauce) and loved the sparkling lemonade. Will had a tender and refreshing CUTTLEFISH SALAD while I reveled in my SPAGHETTI with CLAMS in a spicy garlic sauce. What made this dish special was that the sauce was very buttery, rich and slightly thick as opposed to the runny clam sauces one tends to find.

Meanwhile back at Camponeschi, I started with a beautiful presentation of LOBSTER in RASPBERRY VINEGAR Sauce with Black Truffles. A claw and tail were large and succulent meat in a beautiful presentation with "lobster head" adornment and antennae: the black truffles were actually melded into an aoili for dipping. The MILLE FEUILLE of RED MULLET was marinated and the cute fish perched atop a salad that was like seaweed in an aquarium (it looked like it was swimming!) and served with a WAFFLE of PECORINO CHEESE & Vinaigrette. MIXED STUFFED SHRIMP were Deep Fried in ZUCCHINI BLOSSOMS and stuffed with SEA BASS. A creamy versus crunchy dish with remoulade that could have been an entree it was so huge. Our server ANWAR suggested the TOCAI DEL COLLIO FRIULIANO (from Friuli in the north) 2005 from SCHOPETTO that was a treat--so crisp yet floral and tasty with the seafood. We thought we had done something wrong when the Cypriot Ambassador, a large man with a huge party sitting at the next table, got up and moved inside, but we were told he needed the A/C! His mansion faced the Palazzo Farnese and was impressive as well.

When in Italy one must have the pasta course (or secondi) and we chose some new ones for a change. TROFFIE (coiled & short) with PRAWNS and "FOSSA's" Pecorino Cheese was okay, ROMBETTI (short papardelle) with SCALLOPS and PORCINI Mushrooms fared much better and my most novel NEAPOLITAN STYLE PASTA in BEAN SOUP with SHELLFISH consisted of shreds of pasta in a thicker-than-bouillabaise-like soup with tons of shellfish and fish that was slightly spicy and most tasty. The winner was Juan's simple RIGATONI alla CARBONARA which was a beautifully "ridged" rigatoni served with the traditional egg and bacon, which here was a spicy delicious speck.

Entrees were all excellent with Mel & Juan opting for the French CHATEAUBRIAND with Bearnaise sauce and Will & I heading the fish route. He chose the TURBOT with PORCINI Mushrooms and Potato and I had a superb GILTHEAD SEA BREAM (also Dorado, called Orata in Italian) with Artichokes in a very light ANCHOVY SAUCE. The fishes were superb and so fresh. We switched to a rich CERVARO DEI MARCHESI 2004 from ANTINORI in Umbria that was creamy and rich and brilliant with the fish and between courses, while Mel & Juan opted for glass of house red that was good as well,

Desserts brought what I thought was a mediocre TIRAMISU due to the excess of cocoa and too much cream, a superb VANILLA SOUFFLE (there are many French dishes on the menu) and some yummy mignardises such as a Pastry Cup with Cream & Strawberries and simple MADELEINE Cookies. DRIED RHUBARB Pieces were deemed a digestif as we coiffed our LIMONCELLO and headed back to the Excelsior Hotel for our last night before packing and boarding the ship yesterday.

I must also write about a small pizza place around the corner from our hotel called LA BRUSCHETTA E.... which features pizza, pasta, bruschetta and more for some of the best prices in Rome (and prices ARE HIGH). It is located just of the Via Veneto at Via SARDEGNA 39/41 and may just have the best pizza Rome offers. The five of us had a total of 4 meals there since just kept going back for lunch or dinner. The pizza with ANCHOVY, SQUASH BLOSSOMS and MOZZARELLA was a hit as was the SPECK & SMOKED CHEESE. Samuel, of course, always chose the Margherita(tomato & cheese) but "without the leaves, please" as he seems to now not care for fresh basil leaves. The antipasti of vegetables is huge and superb and the berry tart a treat for dessert!

On board the WESTERDAM now for 20days we find the food to be excellent and won't be communicating with you, save for a lunch here or there off the ship worth reporting! Keep cool and eat well!

Next stop: DUBROVNIK

Hostario dell'Orso de Gaultiero Marchesi; some raves for Rome's one Michelin-starred historic spot

Buon giorno tutti from Rome, Italy where we have started our month-long European jaunt, and while we will be on board our cruise ship for much of this time, we intend to get some pre and post-cruise fine and local dining in.

One of yesterday's highlights was a stop at GIOLITTI, perhaps Rome's #1 gelateria, and it was no disappointment whatsoever. We were happy to brave the 10-minute wait and make our way to the dozens and dozens of choices of clearly the creamiest and best ice cream around. Samuel opted for the simple yet fruitiest STRAWBERRY, while I took a combination of WHITE CHOCOLATE and FRUTTI di BOSCO, literally meaning fruits of the woods, but here a combination of wild berries with small chunks of fruit in the berry delectable gelato. Will, feeling a need for refreshment from the 95 degree heat we have been having daily, stayed on the fruit side with PINEAPPLE (actually with chunks of fresh pineapple) and a tasty LIMONCELLO, that fabulous tart lemon after-dinner drink that we can't forget to enjoy while here! Giolitti is a must not miss stop on any gastronomes tour of Rome and is only blocks from the Pantheon or your no-way-I-can afford-this shopping area on the Via del Corso.

Since the 14th century HOSTARIO dell'ORSO has been operating without closure(save for during the two world wars) as in inn on the banks on the Tiber River just blocks from Piazza Navona. Located on the amazingly narrow and adorable medieval-like Via dei Soldati (#25c) the restaurant also sports a piano bar and disco. During the summer the dining room is moved to the entry level with the tables outside, and I am confident that the one Michelin-starred chef GUALTIERO MARCHESE barely makes an appearance during this season from June to September. Nonetheless, he has created a menu that survives the summer heat and makes the most of the wonderful fresh ingredients we have come to love so well in Europe. We started with a glass of Prosecco and enjoyed four small amuses which included a refreshing high quality grade raw tuna with a wild blueberry on top that was a bit bland, pasta-based cornetti (horn shaped) filled with ricotta cheese and herbs (which we giggled at as our server Roberto pronounced it "harabs" making us think he had said it was filled with "Arabs!" Pineapple and Salmon was an interesting combo, but the hit was the tiny pastry filled with a creamy Black Squid Sauce and tiny chunks of Octopus.

Our first wine was a SANNIO FLANGHINA 2006 from Santiquaranta-Molinara in Campania of the south of Italy. I can't recall ever having this sauvignon-like refreshing wine which had a huge grassy nose with a sharp refreshing essence on the palate that dies fast and makes a great aperitif. When our adorable serving assistant showed me the bottle, I could not help saying "I like the bottle...and...." but left it at that. Our second white was a revelation from ASCEVI LUWA in the north region of Friuli, a 2005 COLLIO SAUVIGNON (Blanc) "Ronco di Sassi" that also had a huge nose and was drinking a creamy basket of citrus fruit. The manager/sommelier Luciano knew we were happy, especially since he had recommended some excellent wines so reasonably priced in the 30-40 Euro price zone (I should add that while the Euro now costs about $1.38, the buying power of one euro is perhaps barely equal to that of $1,00).

The several types of bread and biscuits could have easily been forgotten, but the breadsticks were delish. A second (well, really the fifth) amuse came in a gorgeous Ginori bowl (with the concentric) striations around the rim in the form of a superb miniature tomato filled with a puree of Italian white beans and some small pieces of tuna (that were so salty, I could have sworn they were anchovy!).

The main meal started and we all chose to order a la carte rather than opt for one of the many tasting menus (going from a vegetarian option at the price of somewhere around 50 Euros to the chef's choice at 145 Euros) which just seemed to be too much in the heat. The starters were SEARED SEA SCALLOPS on a salad with a zingy GINGER & PINK PEPPER dressing, GLAZED QUAILS and their EGGS, my refreshing and light Carpaccio of SICILIAN RED PRAWNS with Seasonal Vegetables and the largest chunk of FOIE GRAS I have ever seen on a plate with MELON SOUP, PINEAPPLE & PISTACHIO that there seemed to be enough of for everyone to share multiple bites of.

The pasta courses were enjoyable, but not truly revelations as I would have hoped. Will's RABBIT RAGU (I forget on what type of pasta) was the lightest ragout I have ever tasted, and actually was quite nice for the summer, the HOME MADE TAGLIOLINI with a light creamy sauce of SEA URCHIN & TOASTED ALMONDS was also good, but needed some zing, perhaps a small piece of fresh sea urchin or a touch of caviar. The heaviest was the BASIL & POTATO GNOCCHI with EGGPLANT MOUSSE, TOMATO & Smoked Cheese, which was amazing, but just to rich for me. Our friend, Mel could not stop raving. We did notice that while Hostaria sports a Michelin star and the staff is kind, helpful and courteous; they seemed to be a bit rushed and busy at times (perhaps someone didn't show up for work?) and they often cleared the plates haphazardly and not at the same time (a pet peeve I find bothersome). The worst offense, however, was the men's room that clearly needed cleaning despite its adorable risque prints on the wall.

We all gave in and ordered the highly recommended by Roberto VEAL "ROSSINI" di Gualtiero Marchese which had a filet topped with a large piece of foie gras (from Perigord in France) and a magnificent nose of Italian BLACK SUMMER TRUFFLES as the four plates wafted towards us. A small dish on the side held some yummy spinach with raisins and pine nuts that we wished there was more of. The meat was perfection, but it was the truffles that made it "over-the-top we are all very happy now campers." Luciano suggested and amazing 2004 MONTEPULCIANO d'ABRUZZO "Aldiano" from Cantina Tollo that was simply perfect with the food and as I said to our adorable assistant server "It's bigger than what I expected"....to which Mel responded, "It's what we pray for." Now giggle a lot, but it was so funny, because this drop dead gorgeous guy spoke a halting English and clearly could not understand the innuendos, but we were all so happy it did not matter.

After a nice break (everything was served at perfect intervals) we opted to share a cheese plate which came with a nice TALLEGIO,an UBRIACO from Tuscany that packed a small bite, a boring TOMINO (I was told also spelled Tommino sometimes) from Trentino on the Adriatic north of Venice and crumbly tasty PARMEGGIANO REGGIANO and one of the best GORGONZOLA's I have ever had that was mild yet so rich and creamy it resembled a French triple-creme. Four fresh fruit sauce accompanied the cheeses. Luciano again recommended a perfect dessert wine in a TERRE die CHIETI PASSITO 2004 from Tollo in Abruzzo that I would enjoy
after any meal because it is sweet, yet not too intense (especially in the heat, which still was strong at almost midnight!).

The desserts were a wonderful MEDITERRANEAN CHOCOLATE (it was dark, yet not bitter or intense) and TOMATO JAM CUSTARD CREAM with Balsamic Vinegar that got stars just for the jam itself. A LEMON TARTKET with WILD BERRIES, LIME JELLY and Meringue and some creamy flavor-filled homemade gelati. The mignardises were promptly finished by the four of us and included a spoon of SPICY GUAVA Gelled Fruit, a boring chocolate cup with cream, a superb BABA Au RHUM (which Roberto told us originated in Naples), but the piece de resistance was a small bar of CHOCOLATE covered in COCONUT that I saved for last and made me feel that while the meal was perhaps not all perfect, there were so many sweet moments, the overall experience was a truly great start to a month abroad with two great friends, Juan & Mel.

Incidentally, after dinner Roberto gave us a quick tour of the gorgeous upstairs dining room which has original frescoes and some amazing original wood beam ceilings from the 15th and 14th century.

1789 still superlative with Rising Chef Winner Nathan Beauchamp

First I just want to say that this will be my LAST posting here in the USA this month. We are off to Europe where you will get some periodic fine dining experiences, but we will be onboard the Westerdam, so I don't really talk much about their food, as fine as it is. I also want to thank our dear friend PETER VOTH who has created a BLOG for all my reviews which may make it easier for you to find specific ones. The address is http://phyllistines.blogspot.com

Last night we joined four friends for a fabulous meal at 1789 where they are running a $37-or-so 3-course summer special which includes the regular ala carte menu, and what a selection of choices that is (with surcharges only on the lamb or beef fillet!). All this comes from this years winner of the Rammys RISING CHEF award Chef NATHAN BEAUCHAMP.

We had a bad bottle of Cotes du Rhones blanc which we quickly sent back to try instead a POUILLY FUISSE 2005 DOMAINE des VIEUX MURS which was crisp and refreshing with some nice fruit and a touch of oak. It was super with my FRESH PORTUGUESE SARDINES so lightly breaded and sauteed over a bed of ONIONS with GOLDEN RAISINS & PINE NUTS. Ther fish were not salty at all nor bony and I just reveled in their flavor.

The other super appetizer at the table was the STEAK TARTARE with QUAIL EGG, Caperberries and Flatbread.

We were thrilled to be treated to some extra appetizers which included PAPPARDELLE with Dandelion, Homemade Sausage and Toasted Garlic, a yummy VEAL SHORTRIB with Grilled Corn, Smoked Paprika and Pickled Shallots, a Risotto with again Roasted Corn (a regular appearance), Basil and tasty CHANTERELLE toped with sliced of SUMMER TRUFFLES. All are on the menu and brought raves!

The first red wine we chose was a light bodied Pinot Noir/Sangiovese which was not as great as we had hoped but was nice between courses...it was IL BACIALE 2004 from Monteferato. Our final red was a big improvement and full bodied and warm from PIRRAMIMMA in McLaren Vale, Australia a 2003 PETIT VERDOT that would make anyone happy with its rich berry flavors.

The entrees were all impressive and very filling as well. KIROBUTA PORK CHOP with Fried Green Tomatoes, Bean Salad & Aged Balsamic and YELLOWFIN Rare TUNA with Arugula, Piquillo Peppers, Botarga and Fennel (a great lighter summer dish), the SCALLOPS and my excellent ROASTED VEAL TENDERLOIN & SWEETBREADS with Market Carrots, Basil and a rich but not overwhelming Madeira Sauce.

Desserts are no less impressive from Pastry Chef Fabrice Bendano. There was a Chocolate DOME for chocoholics and a RASPBERRY "Napoleon" with Conbava (like Meyers Lemon) Sorbet and Hibiscus Essence, a BERRY TART with super Sorbets of Blackberry & Strawberry and my beyond superb, over-the-top, yet-so-simple GLAZED APRICOTS with VANILLA SHORTBREAD, RASPBERRY SORBET and PISTACHIO ICE CREAM all served in a giant brandy glass with a crunchy sweet pirouette-type cookie that made me want more...but nooooooo...this week I have eaten too much!

See you all NEXT WEEK in ROME!

McCormick & Schmick's - seafood and variety

We were invited out to dinner last night with Samuel and I suggested McCormick & Schmick's on K Street as it has been years since we went and Samuel always seems to like fish. Oddly, the children's menu has no fish or fish stick type option, so we went for the standard CHICKEN FINGERS and FRIES. He devoured the latter and ate much of the chicken, passing on the included ice cream, so we knew something was wrong. Indeed, he had a fever when we got home, but is fine today!

Meanwhile, one our first past trip to McCormick & Schmick's I was quite amazed at the quality and VARIETY of the seafood. The preparation and taste is not at the level of say, DC Coast or Kinkead's, but is should be considered as an option on occasion. We enjoyed a refreshing LOIMER "Lois" 2006 GRUNER VELTLINER which hade huge apple notes and went very well with the fish dishes. I started with a superb bowl of STEAMED MANILA CLAMS in WHITE WINE & HERBS which were as tender as could be and I had to mop up every bit of the delectible sauce. I had considered the Mussels in Red Curry, but our server (after specifically asking) warned me they were a bit small that day! Will enjoyed the FRIED COCONUT SHRIMP with TROPICAL FRUIT SALSA and the Gazpacho got a rave as well.

The GRILLED SOCKEYE COPPER RIVER SALMON with Swiss Chard & Hen of the Woods Mushrooms was only marred by being slightly overcooked for my taste, but the fish itself was superb, flaky and tasty. The SEA SCALLOPS Seared with CAJUN SPICES and Pineapple Sauce were only mildly spicy and just the right amount. Since we were celebrating Will's recent acquisition of US citizenship, he felt required to order the HALIBUT FISH & CHIPS which needed a good dose of vinegar, but were moist and beautifully fried.

My ALMOND CRUSTED TROUT with LEMON BUTTER was a beautiful huge piece of fish totally encrusted and also just cooked about a minute too long, but still fine. The tasty accompanying mashed potatoes didn't compare to PS 7's the night before, nor did the basic veggie accompaniments of asparagus and julienne carrots.

I couldn't help feeling that while McCormick & Schmick's has variety that for many items the finer dining spots in town can do so much better.

PS 7's pretty spectacular for new DC dining

It's funny that I completely forgot that Saturday was 7/7/07, but was reminded with an adorable choice of tasting menu on arrival last night at PS 7's (777 I St, NW -www.ps7restaurant.com). PS 7's opened last year and was nominated for best new restaurant and best pastry chef for this year's Rammy's, and I am confident after last night's meal, that we will see many more nominations in the future.

Chef/Owner PETER SMITH was executive chef at Vidalia for many years where he garnered a James Beard Award and now has his own home in a subdued elegant setting with brown putty earthy colors, smoked glass, votive candles and while there are high ceilings for airiness, the noise factor is subdued. The feeling extends to the rest rooms which are oddly dark with black tiles and very low lighting and the most adorable pair of goldfish bowls (with fish) mounted into the walls! I loved the sunken glass sinks with lighting from underneath.

The warm feeling does not stop with the decor, as the staff is very friendly and helpful as well. There are a number of novel and rare ingredients which are carefully explained. When we asked about the TONKA BEAN, it was Chef Smith himself who appeared to welcome us and show us the bean and break it in half for us to smell. It turns out to be akin to vanilla rather than a legume and looks like a smoked almond.

We ordered one bottle of each color to share with our guests and both were super hits in their own ways in the $40 range. The creamy (from oak) J Vineyard PINOT GRIS 2005 form Russian River is a wanna-be chardonnay with more fruit, yet that odd oak flavor that makes it so wonderfully creamy and great for most fish. The SARAH's VINEYARD 2003 "Besson Vineyard" ZINFANDEL from Santa Clara (Gilroy, California) had a 16.4% alcohol level from Old Vines and really was a flavorful (you could not taste the intense alcohol) wine with lots of berry fruits and only a hint of pepper, but some mild spices; a great wine for any meat on the menu.

Our meal started with an amuse (shooter glass) of CHILLED ASPARAGUS SOUP with Lemon LAVENDER CREME FRAICHE which was cold and so refreshing in the 95+degree heat! Indeed the lavender theme was carried through the meal and was quite nice for a change.

The appetizers were all top notch from a super-rich yet not too creamy LOBSTER BISQUE loaded with chunks of lobster to two very complex presentations that really were not only beautiful but intriguing: BABY BEET SALAD with Crisp FRIED GOAT CHEESE NAPOLEON, Honey & Grapefruit Marinated BABY BEETS and the Beet & TONKA BEAN Vinagrette. Even more fun was Chef Smith's version of the DPJ or "Duck Peanut & Jelly" made from CRISP DUCK CONFIT& Toasted SPICED WALNUTS sandwiched between POTATO TUILES with PICKLED MUSCAT GRAPES and DUCK PROSCIUTTO & MIZUNA. How fun this was!

The warm bread arrived as well and it was literally impossible to resist, so we asked for MUCH more. There were COTTAGE CHEESE & DILL mini rolls and CARAMELIZED ONION & WALNUT mini rolls,but the touch of heaven was the perfectly flaky APPLE BACON BISCUITS that melted in our mouths (over and over indeed!).

I opted for the $47 Three course 7/7/07 menu (there was also a $57 four course) as this was a holdover from the weekend and most welcome to my palate. I started with LOBSTER STUFFED SQUASH BLOSSOMS with Braised BABY LEEKS and NEW POINT COMFORT OYSTERS (from the Rapahannock Northern Neck of Va.) in a Tarragon & Oyster Cream. It was called Oyster "liquor" but this is misleading as it contains no alcohol. The dish was heavenly with the huge blossoms fried to crispness and filled with a mousseline like lobster filling. To top it off that J Pinot Gris was brilliant with this rich shellfish preparation.

My entree was the CHERRYWOOD SMOKED PORK which comes (as many of the dishes do) in a trio format on a large rectangular divided plate. On one side was GLAZED BABY TURNIPS, in the center the Smoked PORK over MUSTARD GREENS with Cracklin's in Pistachio Oil and on the other side a superbly crunchy slice of PORK BELLY (which I often find too fatty, but here was perfect) over CARAMELIZED ONIONS. Each element was wonderful and made the dish a brilliant whole.

Other plates at the table were the SAUTEED SEA SCALLOPS with MOREL Mushrooms, very spicy ASPARAGUS, House Cured Bacon, Market Corn and Black Plum Vinaigrette. A side order of Mashed Potatoes were creamy and rich.

The POPCORN CRUSTED HALIBUT is another novelty in ingredients with Wilted WATERCRESS, SMOKED (Pop)CORN, House Cured Bacon, CIPPOLINI Onions, and that TONKA BEAN-POPCORN EMULSION. It disappeared so fast, I failed to get a taste but the emulsion was delish.

Will opted for another trio which was the BRAISED VEAL BREAST with WILD MUSHROOMS a la CREME, ROASTED SWEETBREADS and Pommes Dauphin. This was one of the largest entrees I have seen recently and was superb to boot with rich (and huge) sweetbreads and tasty tender veal.

Desserts come in Little Sins for $7 and Big SIns for $12. We tried three little sins which were the VANILLA LEMON CREME BRULEE, the ICE CREAM SUNDAE of Chocolate Ice Cream, Fudge Brownie, Bruleed Bananas, and Caramelized Hazelnuts. If we thought that Pastry Chef NAOMI GALLEGO had succeeded here we were blown away with the simple MINI-DONUTS with Dipping Sauces. My menu included a spectacular dessert of STRAWBERRY-RHUBARD TARTINE with Lavender Creme Fraiche and STRAWBERRY RHUBARB SORBET. The excellent oblong flaky pastry of hazelnut broche was covered with wonderfully marinated fruit (fresh chunky compote) and sat on a sweet slash or raspberry sauce.

We got a plate of mignardises that we sampled but ended up packing up fro home. There were so many options it was mind-boggling. Starting with the RASPBERRY DARK CHOCOLATE and COGNAC DARK CHOCOLATES to MUSCADINE TRUFFLES, Chocolate covered Hazelnuts that were divine, Mandarin or Peach Jellies (a bit too much sugared for me), LAVENDAR MARSHMALLOWS (more on that theme!) and finally the piece de resistance that I think must end every meal at PS 7's, Naomi Gallego's brilliant SALTED CARAMELS.

Kudos to our server Nick who was informative, pleasant and just plain great and the whole staff who made this meal even better. I know we will be headed back again soon!

EXTRA VIRGIN varies but satisfies

With yesterday being 7/7/07 I thought we would have a memorable meal, and while the food at EXTRA VIRGIN in Shirlington (Arlington, VA) was very good last night, the service was a bit lackluster. Chalk it up to our server being new or such, but we just needed a little more attention like having our wine poured and getting our courses well properly spaced. I asked for time in between and it almost became over 30 minutes!

Three of us ordered the excellent GRANCIO SOFICIE or Tempura "stile" (that's how THEY spelled it) Soft SHELL CRAB over Arugula with SPICY Tomato Sauce.It was really a crunchy saute with no batter on the crab really emphasizing the shellfish itself and luckily the yummy but very spicy sauce was on the side. The fourth appertizer of simple MELON & PROSCIUTTO turned out to have been in the fridge so long it tasted like it, so they quickly switched it to the Crab on request; well handled and super efficiently!

We started with a refreshing VERDICCHIO from Marche (Italy) 2005 Castelli di Jesi from Garofoli and went on to a wonderful also crisp VERNACCIA di SAN GIMIGNANO 2006 GEOGRAPHICO. With these 90 degree temperatures and such yummy seafood, it seems the only way to go these days.

Our entrees were all superb fish dishes from the BRANZINO in PADILLA (Roasted Sea Bass with Sweet & Sour Eggplant in Yellow Bell Pepper Sauce) to the excellent fleshy Pan-Seared GROUPER with a Yellow Pepper Sauce and a huge VEGETABLE TIMBALE. My SPIGOLA in PADELLA con CARCIOFI E PORRI was a buttery sauteed fillet of WILD ROCKFISH in a lemony sauce of Olive Oil (it said spicy, but was not) loaded with ARTICHOKES & LEEKS.

It was odd that we mentioned we were all headed off to Italy next week and one of the waiters who knew us from before had the chef bring out a plate of complimentary desserts: TORTA al CIOCCOLATO is a warm almond and chocolate cake that is rich, yet not gooey like a fondant, with a scoop of vanilla gelato. The APPLE PIE got varying reviews from all of us, but the AMARINA GELATO made from Amaretto & Cherry was a treat, novel to us all!

We headed to the theater (once we got the bill) after a round of coffee, espresso and excellent cappucino.

Restaurant 2941 always a number 1 for me

We returned to 2941 (Falls Church, VA) after more than a year and realized how much we had missed under the toque of Chef Jonathan Krinn at this beautiful establishment, which now boasts a huge new Salvador Dali sculpture in the gardens (I asked why the couldn't afford to fill all the holes in it :-)).

We were in the excellent hand of server DAVID VORHEES, who won Outstanding Restaurant Employee of the year at this year's Rammys and every second was sheer enjoyment from the first sip of PHILIPPE GONET BRUT ROSE Champagne poured by Sommelieuse Kathy to our last bite when we were the last folks to clear out of the place (as it so often seems to be when we go there)!

Indeed, the ONLY thing that went wrong was that our first bottle of sparkling San Benedetto water was flat. How often does one get to send the WATER back? Quickly rectified, we laughed a lot about it.

The first amuse was a SEARED YELLOWFIN TUNA with ROASTED YELLOW PEPPER, SCALLION and a SHERRY-GINGER Sauce that got us excited, but not a much as what followed with the DUO OF SONOMA FOIE GRAS with a seared FOIE GRAS with CARAMELIZED BLACK MISSION FIGS on one side, a slash of 25 year old Balsamic dividing the plate and a TORCHON of FOIE GRAS with Fleur de Sel and a dab of APRICOT CHUTNEY....it was genius on a plate and so decadent we gobbled up every last drop.

The main tasting menu began with HAWAIIAN KAMPACHI TARTARE with Lychee, Kaffir Lime, Market Radish, Habanero Pepper and Basil Seeds. I loved hint of heat and all the exotic fruits and flavors that combined to perfection especially with the perfectly paired RIESLING KABINETT-Weingut JJ CHRISTOFFEL ERBEN, Urziger Wurtzgarten 2005 from the Mosel-Saar-Ruwer Region of Germany.

The CARAMELIZED SEA SCALLOP was smothered with OSETRA CAVIAR (I know we got more than average), MAINE LOBSTER and a WHITE ASPARAGUS NAGE and served over a :macaire" or Potato Pancake with Frizzled Leeks. It was another heavenly dish with a rich butteriness to every bite with magnificent shellfish and a magnificent SAINT JOSEPH BLANC 2005 from Domaine Coursodon in the Rhone that e just had to ask for more of between courses.

GENTLY SAUTEED Atlantic TRUBOT was a firm fish with a SWEET ONION FONDUE, those long awaited CHANTERELLE MUSHROOMS, Capers and a Brown Butter Emulsion. The acidity of the accompanying PULIGNY MONTRACHET 2004 from Domaine BZIKOT in Burgundy eventually mellowed as the wine opened up.

The TOURNEDO of ELYSIAN FIELDS LAMB had a distinct Mediterranean feel with Capiscum (Red pepper), Summer Squash, Nicoise Olives and Lamb Jus. It was delicately paired with a VINO NOBILE di MONTEPULCIANO 2003 from Caterina Dei, a winemaker I would love to taste more from.

The main entree was an amazing combination and even moreso with genius double pairing of wines (Kathy insisted we try a second wine along with that from the menu). The SPICED MILLBROOK VENISON LOIN had a peppery spicy topping and the preparation was of WHITE PEACHES, GARDEN PEAS, LONG SQUASH and MAPLE SMOKED BACON with Oyster Mushrooms. The slightly sweet peachiness of the sauce was amazing with the PAX "Cuvee Christine" 2005 Sonoma Syrah while the ZINFANDEL(with big fruit and pepper) from PELLEGRINI FAMILY VINEYARDS "Eight Cousins Vineyard" 2005 in Russian River really paired to perfection with the spice of the meat.

AMARETTO FRENCH BRIOCHE TOAST with Vintage Port Reduction and Black Cherry Frappe (in a shot glass on the side) was dessert number one and paired with a glass of BANYULS 2004 from Domaine du Mas Blanc in Roussillon. We persevered to conquer the amazing dessert number two of CARAMEL CROUSTILLANT GLAZED BANANA with Vanilla Creme Brulee, but the rest is a bit hazy. The magnificent BRUNDLMAIER RIESLING BEERENAUSLESE Zobinger 2000 from Heiligenstein in Austria may just be a new favorite for me with its intense richness and that always loving apricot flavor.

The Blackberry Shortbread and Cream Candied Pistachios followed with the requisite COTTON CANDY and we hauled ourselves home with extra cotton candy for Samuel and a couple of loaves of bread. One can never forget Chef Jonathan's dad's (Mal) bread which consisted of Chocolate Cherry, Olive, French, Pumpernickel, Jalapeno Garlic, and a new super APRICOT PISTACHIO which I am going to munch on right now!

I can only say that I won't wait a year before heading back to 2941!

STARFISH Cafe can be a bargain

We moseyed over to Capitol Hill the other day and discovered a wealth of adorable little spots including STARFISH CAFE at 539 8th St, SE which has exposed brick, bright lively colored fish paintings, eclectic, yet cute decor with tables of woven mats underneath glass tops and wooden chairs in need of cushions. There is a cute bar up front under the visage of the Virgin Mary!

Start with a mojito or margarita with her, and then go onto the inexpensive yet tasty wines in the $20 range such as the DURBANVILLE South African 2005 Sauvignon Blanc with gooseberry flavors and a hint of grass or the NEWHAVEN 2006 Sauvignon Blanc from New Zealand that reeks of grapefruit.

Some of the dishes are a downright steal and bargain, others not so. Try the TOULOUSE STUFFED MUSHROOMS with Anduille (that's how they spell it) Sausage and Crabmeat with a hint of Hollandaise. They are deep fried, as many of the items are, including the spicy HUSHPUPPIES, so watch your fried calorie intake! I would probably avoid the CHILLED SEAFOOD PLATTER which can be ordered as an entree or split as an appetizer. We easily split the $20+ dish three ways with four plump BLUE POINT OYSTERS, 4 "Cajun" SHRIMP (which were simply your everyday boiled large shrimp with cocktail sauce, but plump, juicy and tasty), a bowl of miniature crab claws that are more of a pain if you can find the meat and avoid the fin, and finally an order of the tasty SCALLOP-SALMON CEVICHE (which can be ordered by itself) which suffers only from too much shredded lettuce.

We also tried one of the CRAB CAKES which cen be ordered ala carte for $7.00 each and a 5 ounces are quite large and tasty, and while they don't compare to the haute cuisine cakes at DC's top seafood emporia, they are a real bargain!

Our entrees were the SOFT SHELL CRAB SANDWICH which has one huge fried crab on a bun with SPICY FRIES on the side and at just over $12 is another bargain. For twice the price there is a SOFT SHELL PLATTER with two of the huge crustaceans, GARLIC MASHED POTATOES and a hint of ASIAN PLUM-GINGER-BUTTER SAUCE (more would have been welcome). These are indeed some of the biggest softshells I have ever seen, but they were breaded and deep fried just a tad too much.

The VEAL OSCAR is a cream dream with Crabmeat, Asparagus and Hollandaise, but I think the desserts carry cholesterol warnings! DULCE di LECHE BAKED ALASKA is less indulgent with Raspberry & Vanilla Sauces and has ice cream cake with piles of tasty caramel meringue. CHOCOLATE TORT is a triple chocolate mousse torte with the same two sauces and Whipped Cream--ask no more.

While Will and I sahred the Baked Alaska, we were still quite stuffed and wished we had not ordered so much...good advice for next time!