Thursday, August 14, 2025

last night in London: ANGLOTHAI tasting is terrific (7/31/2025)

 ANGLOTHAI is located a block away from Marble Arch on a small street loaded with dining options. I had read a review several months ago and it really sounded spicy, surprising and something different as you don't find many Asian/Thai restaurants with tasting menus.

As we alighted from the Peninsula's chauffeur driven and leather enveloped Bentley (it is complimentary within 2 miles of the hotel), we were greeting with grins and cheers by Ruby at the door, who never seemed to be upset (but how could anything here upset anyone?). Seated at a table in wooden chairs that could have used a cushion, I worried about my rearend for the long meal! The only other thing that bothered us was the occasional changing of the music to thumping loud "disco" style that seemed so inappropriate for dining.
The 125pound price (about $170) can be paired with wines/drinks for another 95 pounds, but we conversed with our server Eleni and she sent the sommelier, Nicole, over who was thrilled to recommend a white and red wine that came to much less than the pairing and gave us way more wine. A super minerally Cataratto "Vibrazioli" 2024 from Cantine amato in Sicily was so refreshing and the Chinon "Resillience" Cabernet Franc "La Niverdiere" from Martine Bude in the Lire was light, but earthy and had a hint of chalk. The name resilience, Nicole explained, is that Mme. Bude, the winemaker, had survived a divorce and was still running the winery! I should not that there is a 1 pound charge per person for all the house filtered water as well as a discretionary 15% cover charge added, which we were happy to pay!

I started with a Seabuckthorn Margarita made with Ojo de Tigre Mezcal, Chinotto Nero & verjus and loved it as Will did his Pear Martini of Capreolus pear Eau-de-vie, Sapling Vodka, Sapling Gin and dry vermouth. 
A really flavorful amuse of Chilled Cucumber broth arrived that had a spicy lemongrass aftertaste (it is not on the photos on FB!). The first course was a Compressed Kohlrabi, Candied Beetroot and Duchess Rapeseed which was also really an amuse bite but full of flavor, although not spicy. I should note that the crystal is very nice Lehmann and the homemade earthenware plates and bowls were all different and quite beautiful.
Second was a spicier Line Caught cured Mackerel with Rhubarb, Horseradish + Citrus, with chile Tartlet. We could not help comparing this to the mackerel at frog 3 nights earlier and these two dishes were both so brilliant but so different. Here the mackerel was less intense due to the chile and we loved every little bite.
The spiciest so far was the third course (also really an amuse) of Fosse Meadows Chicken, Coconut Golae & Ajut Pickle(mooli) which was grilled and topped with micro-sorrel.
Things got intense with course #4 of Brixham Crab, Exmoor Caviar & Coconut Ash Cracker. The crab is under the caviar and can be seen in the second photo with a mayo aioli that was divine. This was a superb use of both main ingredients and full of flavor with the right amount of spice. the cracker is made of brown crab as well.
I love tongue and Beef Tongue with Jungle Curry & brioche was a real treat even if the tongue was just a tad chewy. The coconut in the curry was just right to balance the spice and the brioche was deep fried with a chili butter glaze! We had switched to the Cab franc and were loving everything but we needed a long rest and Eleni made sure we had almost 30 minutes; kudos to the kitchen.
Course #6 was British Octopus, Chili Jam & Courgette (no photo) and the octopus was really a grilled confit and also had pork fat with octopus emulsion with coconut cream sauce and tarragon oil. It was a lot to take in indeed. The "main" meat #7 was Barrett Farm Lamb, Car y Mor Cockles & Herbal Curry, Hodmedod's Wholegrain Spam(yup--SPAM!) & Laab Spice. The zucchini was pickled with a quenelle of red chili, gooseberry & lemongrass. This lamb rocked, but alas I could only manage a couple of bites to taste each fabulous element. 
Dessert arrived and first came the Cherry, Palm Sugar Biscuit ad Toasted Chili on one plate and Strawberry Grachai & Coconut Flan in the other. The balance was super as the first was spicy and the other cooling. As if this was not enough, the last course#10) arrived called Kanom Lek, a coconut pancake with custard which was explained as a typical Asian street food(no photo) and last came a tiny Raspberry jelly with tamarind gel, long peppercorn and sugared raspberry atop.
Will finished off with a glass of Saumur "La Tournelle" dessert wine, which I had a teeny sip of. It was a yummy time to go home and pack for the flight to Bordeaux tomorrow!!  I think the dinner lasted about 4 hours, but I was so full and tired I cannot recall, but boy was it a tasty and different dining experience.