Every now and then we purchase a chef's dinner at a charity event and this past fall we had the pleasure of buying Chef Harper McClure of The Federalist (www.thefederalistdc.com), now the only restaurant in Washington DC's Madison Hotel. We had a superb meal there last month, but last night was one of the most wonderful events we have had at our home in a long time!
We started with Israeli Osetra Caviar and US Paddleback. It was fun to contrast the flavors and quality, and of course, the Osetra won hands down. This newly developed Israeli industry is my first taste of the new divine fish egg import, and it is very high quality indeed. Blanc de Blanc Schramsberg 2008 from California flowed freely as we all gathered.
Our first course was a SCALLOP CRUDO with Citrus Salad & Meyer Lemon Vinaigrette. It was fairly light, but even the huge thinly sliced raw diver scallops had a heft and superb taste that paired wonderfully with the slightly citrus-y Sauvignon Blanc 2011 from Elizabeth Spencer in Napa Valley.
Next came one of the best Foie Gras dishes we have ever had due to many factors, but clearly the chef's love and devotion to this dish shone through: Perfectly Seared La Belle Farms FOIE GRAS from Long Island was served with divine CHESTNUT AGNELOTTI with Asian Pear over a Sunchoke Puree. I adore chestnuts and with all the cold last night, this was a wonderful warming and heartfelt dish that exuded great cooking to the best! "Bouche D'or" Bouchaine 2010, a wonderful sweet Napa Valley dessert wine that was again a wonderful pairing.
Butter Poached MAINE LOBSTER had a decadent Mascarpone RISOTTO with shaved Radish and White Truffle Butter. Need I say more? Yes, this all seems like everything was intensely rich, and while it may have been we were resting between courses and really enjoying not only the company, but the wonderful knowledge of the folks from The Federalist, a place you must try soon. Mersault, Domaine Henri Darnat 2009 was again a simply perfect pairing. I should mention that Samuel was enjoying a house salad during all this (prepared by moi!).
Samuel's main course was especially prepared by Chef Harper and he gobbled up his favorite Chicken Tenders in town with French Fries of course! We, on the other hand, were treated to a Duo of Dry Aged RIBEYE: Roasted Eye and Cap Roulade with Roasted Trumpet Mushrooms, Swiss Chard and Madeira Jus. A superb and just ready to drink 2003 CHATEAU SIMARD from St. Emilion was our one but perfect red wine for the night. The meat was superb and both preparations were so different it was like having two more courses. The eye was slightly rare and as tender as could be with tons of flavor and a real aged taste. The cap was like having a prime rib crust stuffed and rolled; I adored the slight crispiness on the edge.
Dessert was thankfully light but still excellent: Greek Yogurt PANNA COTTA with Roasted PINEAPPLE, Marcona Almond Puree and Shortbread Cookie. While the panna cotta was great, it was the puree of almonds (think almond butter with a crunch or something akin to Skippy crunchy, but thinner and with a big almond bang) that was the hit. Vidal Ice Wine from Jackson Triggs in Niagara Canada was a treat as we love this place since we visited there last summer! It brought back such sweet memories!
I know that we will return again and again to The Federalist because it is one of the best places in town for sure, but it was even better having Chef Harper come to us and not have to cook or drive at all!
Monday, February 18, 2013
Thursday, February 14, 2013
the winemakers of CHATEAUNEUF du PAPE pile into PLUME Restaurant (2/13/13)
Last night some twenty-odd folks were treated to a rare wine-tasting experience. It was a wonderful evening for wine as five vignerons (and of course close neighbors) from the tiny enclave of Chateauneuf du Pape presented their superb wines. I had not been to PLUME (in the Jefferson Hotel-www.plumedc.com) and was excited to be there for the first time as well.
I had the pleasure of being seated between one of the vintners and the gentleman who heads up the importing company in the USA for their wines. It was fun to switch back and forth between French and English and understand so much wonderful information being given to us about these wines, only two of which I knew beforehand.
We sat down to a simple amuse-size Garlic & Sunchoke Veloute which was nice, but would win no awards. The Domaine Pierre Usseglio & Fils 2011 Chateauneuf-du-Pape Blanc was superb, if served a bit too cold. As it warmed up the flavors opened up and popped out big time, as they should for a wine that retails at way over $50 a bottle. The wine was presented by owner/couple Thierry & Sandrine Usseglio(seated across from me), whose family hail from Piemonte and moved to France about three generations ago before WWII.
The highlight of the meal was the MUSSEL GRATIN with crisp fresh fennel shavings, Chorizo & Mussel Glacage.
I could not get enough of he divine sauce and the bread was all gone when I finished mopping it up. Domaine J.P. Lafond-Roc Epine Tavel Rose 2011 was a nice pairing, but again quite cold, especially for a cold wet night. Pascal Lafond himself (two seats away from me) explained that the wine is a blending of Grenache, Syrah and Cinsault. It is unquestionably one of the best Rose wines from the area and indeed France.
Roasted Stuffed QUAIL was a plate of two birds with Chestnut & Foie Gras Stuffing, Spiced Red Wine Jus and Wilted Seasonal Greens (Chard and others). This was indeed another wonderful dish and would have been perfect with just a bit more of the jus! We received two red Chateauneuf-du-Pape wines with this: First was Le Vieux Donjon 2007 presented by Francois Michel and is a blend of Grenache,Syrah, Mourvedre and Cinsault. The wine had been open for a while (these two were poured from magnums) and it was still a bit tight. It opened up later as I saved a bit for the end of the meal, but it was not as fine and smooth a drinkas the Chateau Fortia "Cuvee du Baron" 2007 served by Pierre Pastre next to me. His Grenache, Syrah, Mourvedre blend was easily the best wine we drank last night. I have already ordered some!
A selection of cheese arrived billed as "Rhone Cheese Selection" which may have been a poor move by the folks at Plume. The St. Nectaire, always one of my favorites, was not ripe enough, as can often be the case with imported French cheeses. The Tomme de Savoie was nice, but not intense enough for the two big red wines paired with the course (and it is not from the Rhone). I think if they had chosen a Grayson from Virginia it would have offered that intensity of pairing with the two huge Chateauneuf-du-Pape reds: Cuvee du Vatican 2010 introduced by vingeron Jean-Marc Diffonty and the superb but expensive ($140 per bottle--NOT a magnum) Domaine Pierre Usseglio & Fils 2010 "Cuve de Mon Aieul" from Thierry and Sandrine again made from 100% old vine (75-100 years old) Grenache.
Dessert was a sad event for me in the form of a dish called Apple "Matefaim" with Salted Caramel Sauce (this was superb) and Whipped Creme Fraiche. I asked several of the vignerons what "Matefaim" was and after checking around, we discerned it was a rare name that derives from an old word "mate" meaning "kill." the "faim" of course means hunger...hence this dessert "kills the hunger." The French pastry chef at Plume gave us a small unexciting pastry topped with some diced apples and not much more.
So, if you go to Plume, you know which of these wines to order and to stay away from the Matefaim, but order Mussels and Quail!
HAPPY VALENTINE's DAY!
I had the pleasure of being seated between one of the vintners and the gentleman who heads up the importing company in the USA for their wines. It was fun to switch back and forth between French and English and understand so much wonderful information being given to us about these wines, only two of which I knew beforehand.
We sat down to a simple amuse-size Garlic & Sunchoke Veloute which was nice, but would win no awards. The Domaine Pierre Usseglio & Fils 2011 Chateauneuf-du-Pape Blanc was superb, if served a bit too cold. As it warmed up the flavors opened up and popped out big time, as they should for a wine that retails at way over $50 a bottle. The wine was presented by owner/couple Thierry & Sandrine Usseglio(seated across from me), whose family hail from Piemonte and moved to France about three generations ago before WWII.
The highlight of the meal was the MUSSEL GRATIN with crisp fresh fennel shavings, Chorizo & Mussel Glacage.
I could not get enough of he divine sauce and the bread was all gone when I finished mopping it up. Domaine J.P. Lafond-Roc Epine Tavel Rose 2011 was a nice pairing, but again quite cold, especially for a cold wet night. Pascal Lafond himself (two seats away from me) explained that the wine is a blending of Grenache, Syrah and Cinsault. It is unquestionably one of the best Rose wines from the area and indeed France.
Roasted Stuffed QUAIL was a plate of two birds with Chestnut & Foie Gras Stuffing, Spiced Red Wine Jus and Wilted Seasonal Greens (Chard and others). This was indeed another wonderful dish and would have been perfect with just a bit more of the jus! We received two red Chateauneuf-du-Pape wines with this: First was Le Vieux Donjon 2007 presented by Francois Michel and is a blend of Grenache,Syrah, Mourvedre and Cinsault. The wine had been open for a while (these two were poured from magnums) and it was still a bit tight. It opened up later as I saved a bit for the end of the meal, but it was not as fine and smooth a drinkas the Chateau Fortia "Cuvee du Baron" 2007 served by Pierre Pastre next to me. His Grenache, Syrah, Mourvedre blend was easily the best wine we drank last night. I have already ordered some!
A selection of cheese arrived billed as "Rhone Cheese Selection" which may have been a poor move by the folks at Plume. The St. Nectaire, always one of my favorites, was not ripe enough, as can often be the case with imported French cheeses. The Tomme de Savoie was nice, but not intense enough for the two big red wines paired with the course (and it is not from the Rhone). I think if they had chosen a Grayson from Virginia it would have offered that intensity of pairing with the two huge Chateauneuf-du-Pape reds: Cuvee du Vatican 2010 introduced by vingeron Jean-Marc Diffonty and the superb but expensive ($140 per bottle--NOT a magnum) Domaine Pierre Usseglio & Fils 2010 "Cuve de Mon Aieul" from Thierry and Sandrine again made from 100% old vine (75-100 years old) Grenache.
Dessert was a sad event for me in the form of a dish called Apple "Matefaim" with Salted Caramel Sauce (this was superb) and Whipped Creme Fraiche. I asked several of the vignerons what "Matefaim" was and after checking around, we discerned it was a rare name that derives from an old word "mate" meaning "kill." the "faim" of course means hunger...hence this dessert "kills the hunger." The French pastry chef at Plume gave us a small unexciting pastry topped with some diced apples and not much more.
So, if you go to Plume, you know which of these wines to order and to stay away from the Matefaim, but order Mussels and Quail!
HAPPY VALENTINE's DAY!
Wednesday, February 13, 2013
Chef Cedric Maupillier of MINTWOOD PLACE makes pleasure in/at FOOD & FRIENDS (2-12-13)
Each year we are invited as major donors to a special Celebrity Chef Dinner in the kitchens of FOOD & FRIENDS, one of our favorite charities here in DC. You can join us next time should you make a major donation this year!!
It's a great event and last night may have been the best dinner ever.
Chef CEDRIC MAUPILLIER of Mintwood Place in Adams Morgan wowed us from the first bits of hor's d'oevres:
Guerande Sea Salt Buttered Radishes were amazing. The radishes must have been slightly par-boiled then smothered with a buttery compound with Guerande Sea Salt (fleur de sel). They were on sticks and looked like mini lollipops and were oh so delectable. The Deviled Eggs with Pickled onion on top and Pickled Beet below were yummy, but it was the PISSALADIERE that absolutely blew me away. I had FOUR of these amazing pastry leaves which had sauteed onion confit on them and a marinated fresh Italian anchovy and olive atop each pizza-like creation. OMG!!
We sat down to dinner in the Food & Friends kitchen and more magic appeared.
BURRATA, Deep Fried Red Russian KALE, Hazelnuts, Apple and Tamarind was one of the most exciting "salads" ever and while I am not a fan of Pinot Grigio-the Pradio 2011 from Friuli Para's floral tones were completely hidden by the ingredients on the plate making it an ingenious pairing.
Lightly smoked SALMON was LEEK Crusted and served atop Chestnut Puree, Cocoa Nibs and Roasted Pumpkin Seed Oil. I really felt this dish was true French cuisine at its best. Not a person to order salmon that often, here the fish took on new meaning and a completely different taste with the sauteed leek encasement and the rich chestnut puree was superb. Domaine Alary Cotes due Rhone-Villages Cairanne "La Font d'Estevans" Blanc 2010 was a perfect Rhone white pairing again.
Braised Shenandoah Valley LAMB NECK NAVARIN was a wonderful creation as well and came with a potato puree and a rosemary skewered with carrot, onion and mini-potato. This dish was not a typical stew, but a roulade of lamb meat with a bacon wrap that was sublime. Only the Domaine L'Oustal Blanc Minervois Giocoso 2009 was too light for the meat's intensity. I was also a bit confused with a French wine with the Italian label "giocoso" or happy.
Dessert was OPERA CAKE and Vanilla Bean Ice Cream atop a crumble. The cake was made with both milk chocolate and a crunchy wafer with a dark chocolate ganache top and a small piece of edible gilded gold flake.
We went home feeling very special and knowing that Mintwood Place is on our list.
It's a great event and last night may have been the best dinner ever.
Chef CEDRIC MAUPILLIER of Mintwood Place in Adams Morgan wowed us from the first bits of hor's d'oevres:
Guerande Sea Salt Buttered Radishes were amazing. The radishes must have been slightly par-boiled then smothered with a buttery compound with Guerande Sea Salt (fleur de sel). They were on sticks and looked like mini lollipops and were oh so delectable. The Deviled Eggs with Pickled onion on top and Pickled Beet below were yummy, but it was the PISSALADIERE that absolutely blew me away. I had FOUR of these amazing pastry leaves which had sauteed onion confit on them and a marinated fresh Italian anchovy and olive atop each pizza-like creation. OMG!!
We sat down to dinner in the Food & Friends kitchen and more magic appeared.
BURRATA, Deep Fried Red Russian KALE, Hazelnuts, Apple and Tamarind was one of the most exciting "salads" ever and while I am not a fan of Pinot Grigio-the Pradio 2011 from Friuli Para's floral tones were completely hidden by the ingredients on the plate making it an ingenious pairing.
Lightly smoked SALMON was LEEK Crusted and served atop Chestnut Puree, Cocoa Nibs and Roasted Pumpkin Seed Oil. I really felt this dish was true French cuisine at its best. Not a person to order salmon that often, here the fish took on new meaning and a completely different taste with the sauteed leek encasement and the rich chestnut puree was superb. Domaine Alary Cotes due Rhone-Villages Cairanne "La Font d'Estevans" Blanc 2010 was a perfect Rhone white pairing again.
Braised Shenandoah Valley LAMB NECK NAVARIN was a wonderful creation as well and came with a potato puree and a rosemary skewered with carrot, onion and mini-potato. This dish was not a typical stew, but a roulade of lamb meat with a bacon wrap that was sublime. Only the Domaine L'Oustal Blanc Minervois Giocoso 2009 was too light for the meat's intensity. I was also a bit confused with a French wine with the Italian label "giocoso" or happy.
Dessert was OPERA CAKE and Vanilla Bean Ice Cream atop a crumble. The cake was made with both milk chocolate and a crunchy wafer with a dark chocolate ganache top and a small piece of edible gilded gold flake.
We went home feeling very special and knowing that Mintwood Place is on our list.
Tuesday, February 12, 2013
NEW HEIGHT's new chef, worth note (2-11-13)
Last night we visited NEW HEIGHTS (Woodley Park DC-http://www.newheightsrestaurant.com/home/) where Chef Takeshi Nishikawa recently took over the helm in the tiny kitchen and beautiful setting over Rock Creek Park.
It's been a long time since we visited and the place has not changed much, which is good; same great service, same classic decor, and this always works.
Will chose the 4 course tasting menu for $48, I went for 3 ala carte. We started with a bottle of Vino do Campo 2010 Godello from Ribeiro, Spain which was green apple intense, very flavorful and crisp. A small Gruyere/Duck Confit "gougere" or bouchon arrived and we were very "amuse"d with this tasty one bit tidbit.
The crispy crust hot bread also arrived with a lemon-rosemary butter that was superb.
My CRISPY OYSTERS, lime, cilantro, "trinity" were deep fried and served with lime cubed gelees as well as the trinity sauce of mayo, soy & sriracha which was really tasty. I do have to say that while I used to love fried oysters, maybe I have grown less fond of them and moved to raw ones...who knows?
Will's excellent SWEETO POTATO SOUP was hot, rich and had a dollop of creme fraiche.
He moved on to the divine HOUSE MADE FETTUCCINE, bacon. 63degreeC egg, black pepper and I quote him as saying this was "Carbonara on crack" even if the crack was the cracked black pepper! It was indeed rich, but sublime.
Our red was an excellent ELK COVE 2010 Pinot Noir from Oregon which was fine with Will's full-bodied Pan Seared Spanish MACKEREL, fennel, smoked celeriac, castelnuovo olives. The fish was tender with a tasty crunchy skin, the fennel (which we normally don't like) was crunchy and tasty and the chip-like deep fried celeriac root was fun.
My Pan Roasted SQUAB, beets, currants, corn oats suffered a bit from some sinewy meat despite its wonderful gamey taste. There was a fun entry here too with the quinoa scattered with popcorn.
Chef Nishikawa was upset about the squab and sent out a fab extra dessert Panna Cotta with Spun sugar, menthol and mint. This sounded less appetizing on the menu and I am so glad it came out as it was superb in a wonderful deconstructed way with molecular crumble and superb flavors.
Will had the Granny Smith APPLE, graham cracker, caramel, all spice which was another wonderful construction and presentation.
We heard that New Heights was looking for a pastry chef; we told them "NO--let Chef Nishikawa do his wonderful preparations!"
I had a wonderful cheese plate with divine Rosemary Honey (infused in house) and an Apricot/Pearl Onion Marmalade. The cheeses were
French Comte
Wisconisn La Cabrie goat brie
Le Chatelain -Normandy camembert (one of my faves)
Petite Basque-French goat
Dante-Wisconsin sheep (it was better two nights earlier in NY)
Cambozola Blue from Germany which is surprisingly mild.
Mile Chocolate Truffles arrived before we went home having gone to New Heights yet again.
It's been a long time since we visited and the place has not changed much, which is good; same great service, same classic decor, and this always works.
Will chose the 4 course tasting menu for $48, I went for 3 ala carte. We started with a bottle of Vino do Campo 2010 Godello from Ribeiro, Spain which was green apple intense, very flavorful and crisp. A small Gruyere/Duck Confit "gougere" or bouchon arrived and we were very "amuse"d with this tasty one bit tidbit.
The crispy crust hot bread also arrived with a lemon-rosemary butter that was superb.
My CRISPY OYSTERS, lime, cilantro, "trinity" were deep fried and served with lime cubed gelees as well as the trinity sauce of mayo, soy & sriracha which was really tasty. I do have to say that while I used to love fried oysters, maybe I have grown less fond of them and moved to raw ones...who knows?
Will's excellent SWEETO POTATO SOUP was hot, rich and had a dollop of creme fraiche.
He moved on to the divine HOUSE MADE FETTUCCINE, bacon. 63degreeC egg, black pepper and I quote him as saying this was "Carbonara on crack" even if the crack was the cracked black pepper! It was indeed rich, but sublime.
Our red was an excellent ELK COVE 2010 Pinot Noir from Oregon which was fine with Will's full-bodied Pan Seared Spanish MACKEREL, fennel, smoked celeriac, castelnuovo olives. The fish was tender with a tasty crunchy skin, the fennel (which we normally don't like) was crunchy and tasty and the chip-like deep fried celeriac root was fun.
My Pan Roasted SQUAB, beets, currants, corn oats suffered a bit from some sinewy meat despite its wonderful gamey taste. There was a fun entry here too with the quinoa scattered with popcorn.
Chef Nishikawa was upset about the squab and sent out a fab extra dessert Panna Cotta with Spun sugar, menthol and mint. This sounded less appetizing on the menu and I am so glad it came out as it was superb in a wonderful deconstructed way with molecular crumble and superb flavors.
Will had the Granny Smith APPLE, graham cracker, caramel, all spice which was another wonderful construction and presentation.
We heard that New Heights was looking for a pastry chef; we told them "NO--let Chef Nishikawa do his wonderful preparations!"
I had a wonderful cheese plate with divine Rosemary Honey (infused in house) and an Apricot/Pearl Onion Marmalade. The cheeses were
French Comte
Wisconisn La Cabrie goat brie
Le Chatelain -Normandy camembert (one of my faves)
Petite Basque-French goat
Dante-Wisconsin sheep (it was better two nights earlier in NY)
Cambozola Blue from Germany which is surprisingly mild.
Mile Chocolate Truffles arrived before we went home having gone to New Heights yet again.
Monday, February 11, 2013
NYC's TELEPAN is Terrific (2-9-13)
I have been trying to take more time to dine on recent trips to NYC,
and this trip I really wanted to return for a leisurely meal at
TELEPAN (http://www.telepan-ny.com) where I had been several years ago
pre-theater.
I had made a reservation for two and asked a client of mine to join
me, but he was out of the city, so I asked another. He got stuck in
Canada due to the big snowstorm. Well, I'm a great travel agent, and
managed to get him on the first flight to NY as soon as the airport
opened up, and he showed at dinner 10 minutes after I arrived. To my
surprise, my other client's plans changed with the storm, and ended up
in NYC.
Now, on any given Saturday night near Lincoln Center, or for that
matter at any great dining spot in NY, there are no extra tables, but
Nemo was a blessing and we easily got a prime table for three at
630pm!
I started with the tangy housemade SATSUMA MARGARITA (I had some time
waiting at the bar) and then we ordered a Chateauneuf du Pape Blanc
Domaine Montpertuis 2010 that had a bit of grass and wonderful Rhone
flavors. Tasty Cheese Gougeres arrived as a snack and we went on to
our starters:
Marinated Gulf Shrimp, Coddled Egg, Organic Grits and Bay (operative
word-BAY) Seasoning which had great flavors and was oh so Maryland in
flavor due to the bay seasoning.
House Smoked Brook Trout is one of the Signature dishes here not to be
missed.
The breads arrived in the form of Ciabbata Rye, Organic Semolina,
Whole Grain and more....it was hard to choose.
Two of us split the LOBSTER BOLOGNESE which was Spaghetti with Shallot-
Garlic-Tomato Broth and a Lobster Tail. It was divine. At this point
Chef Bill Telepan emerged to chat and see "who" we knew in DC. I
always believe in one degree of separation, and we had many mutual
friends; he was a genuinely friendly guy and a superb chef to boot.
Another middle course was the fabulous Smoked BRUSSELS SPROUTS wutg
Egg Pasta, Poached Egg & Pecoino Romano!
We switched to a wonderful North Valley Vineyard 2009 Pinot Noir from
Soter in Oregon that was a good choice with so many varied main
courses:
SEA SCALLOP CHOWDER with Manila Clams, Bacon, Leeks and Potato Puree
was my divine choice and just right on that cold post-blizzard night.
The Signature HERITAGE PORK with Pierogi, Sauerkraut, Celery Root &
Apple is always a great hit on a cold winter night and the Roasted
Chicke, Coq Au Vin Style was moist and tasty.
Desserts were as varied as all other courses with my guests having the
Meyer Lemon Meringue Pie, Citrus & White Chocolate Salad and the
Sticky Toffe "cake" which of course, since he was British, he called
"pudding" but it was more cake-like and served with Creme Fraiche Ice
Cream & Candied Cranberries; yummy, but not traditional at all.
I, of course, chose the superb cheese selection which came with Honey,
Huckleberry Gelee, Sugared almonds and pistachios and a selection of
breads:
Bonne Bouche from Vermont Butter & Cheese company
Hudson Flowers from Old Chatham Shepherding in upstate NY
Dante-Wisconsin sheep
Rogue River Blue-Oregon bathed in pear brandy
This was a great American cheese tray that deserved an award for sure,
as the entire meal did.
I forgot to mention our excellent server Steve who was there for our
every need and explained anything we needed so wonderfully; Telepan
indeed has a great team!
and this trip I really wanted to return for a leisurely meal at
TELEPAN (http://www.telepan-ny.com) where I had been several years ago
pre-theater.
I had made a reservation for two and asked a client of mine to join
me, but he was out of the city, so I asked another. He got stuck in
Canada due to the big snowstorm. Well, I'm a great travel agent, and
managed to get him on the first flight to NY as soon as the airport
opened up, and he showed at dinner 10 minutes after I arrived. To my
surprise, my other client's plans changed with the storm, and ended up
in NYC.
Now, on any given Saturday night near Lincoln Center, or for that
matter at any great dining spot in NY, there are no extra tables, but
Nemo was a blessing and we easily got a prime table for three at
630pm!
I started with the tangy housemade SATSUMA MARGARITA (I had some time
waiting at the bar) and then we ordered a Chateauneuf du Pape Blanc
Domaine Montpertuis 2010 that had a bit of grass and wonderful Rhone
flavors. Tasty Cheese Gougeres arrived as a snack and we went on to
our starters:
Marinated Gulf Shrimp, Coddled Egg, Organic Grits and Bay (operative
word-BAY) Seasoning which had great flavors and was oh so Maryland in
flavor due to the bay seasoning.
House Smoked Brook Trout is one of the Signature dishes here not to be
missed.
The breads arrived in the form of Ciabbata Rye, Organic Semolina,
Whole Grain and more....it was hard to choose.
Two of us split the LOBSTER BOLOGNESE which was Spaghetti with Shallot-
Garlic-Tomato Broth and a Lobster Tail. It was divine. At this point
Chef Bill Telepan emerged to chat and see "who" we knew in DC. I
always believe in one degree of separation, and we had many mutual
friends; he was a genuinely friendly guy and a superb chef to boot.
Another middle course was the fabulous Smoked BRUSSELS SPROUTS wutg
Egg Pasta, Poached Egg & Pecoino Romano!
We switched to a wonderful North Valley Vineyard 2009 Pinot Noir from
Soter in Oregon that was a good choice with so many varied main
courses:
SEA SCALLOP CHOWDER with Manila Clams, Bacon, Leeks and Potato Puree
was my divine choice and just right on that cold post-blizzard night.
The Signature HERITAGE PORK with Pierogi, Sauerkraut, Celery Root &
Apple is always a great hit on a cold winter night and the Roasted
Chicke, Coq Au Vin Style was moist and tasty.
Desserts were as varied as all other courses with my guests having the
Meyer Lemon Meringue Pie, Citrus & White Chocolate Salad and the
Sticky Toffe "cake" which of course, since he was British, he called
"pudding" but it was more cake-like and served with Creme Fraiche Ice
Cream & Candied Cranberries; yummy, but not traditional at all.
I, of course, chose the superb cheese selection which came with Honey,
Huckleberry Gelee, Sugared almonds and pistachios and a selection of
breads:
Bonne Bouche from Vermont Butter & Cheese company
Hudson Flowers from Old Chatham Shepherding in upstate NY
Dante-Wisconsin sheep
Rogue River Blue-Oregon bathed in pear brandy
This was a great American cheese tray that deserved an award for sure,
as the entire meal did.
I forgot to mention our excellent server Steve who was there for our
every need and explained anything we needed so wonderfully; Telepan
indeed has a great team!
Saturday, February 09, 2013
Lincoln Center's ATLANTIC GRILL makes NYC's Restaurant Week random (2-8-13)
I made it to NYC yesterday for a weekend of opera just before the NEMO
Blizzard hit and the airports closed. I heaved myself through the wind and snow
about 7 blocks from my hotel to try the highly-rated ATLANTIC GRILL just a block
from Lincoln Center (http://www.atlanticgrill.com).
It's quite a large place and quite pricey, but I expected better as I have always enjoyed dining at the BR Guest localities and always loved it's sister Blue Fin, down at Times Square.
Maybe the Restaurant Week menu was too limited or lacked love...I guess I have to try the much more expensive ala carte menu at another time to find out.
The parkerhouse rolls and tasty nutty bread roll were good, but not warm, and the butter was whipped nicely for spreading. The wines are all about $12-19 by the glass and I enjoyed my Framingham Sauvignon Blanc 2009 from New Zealand, but kept it to one glass (it is a good pour from a tiny carafe) as I had a long opera.
A young woman brought over a small shot glass of tasty Cauliflower Soup "from the chef," as an amuse. I noticed this was her only job around the entire restaurant all evening.
I chose the SKUNA BAY SALMON & SHRIMP MAKI ROLL with Shiso, Cucumber and Miso-Yuzu Sauce which was a nice 6 -piece sushi portion.
The restaurant is seafood centric and specializes in sushi and raw bar specialties as well, and while this was nice, I have been more impressed recently (like at Natsumi in Times Square a couple of weeks ago).
I wanted fish and the 3 main courses were steak, pasta with seafood or the SCOTTISH SALMON a la Plancha, which I chose and came with Chive Spaetzle, Braised Red Cabbage, Almonds and a Cider Beurre Blanc Sauce.
The dish was indeed tasty and the salmon, with its crispy skin atop, superb.
Only the cabbage was too intense and indeed overpowered the sauce and the entire dish. I adored the tasty small spaetzle and more of these would have been welcome as they were quite small and spread out. The portion was a good size, but it was just not well thought out.
It's quite a large place and quite pricey, but I expected better as I have always enjoyed dining at the BR Guest localities and always loved it's sister Blue Fin, down at Times Square.
Maybe the Restaurant Week menu was too limited or lacked love...I guess I have to try the much more expensive ala carte menu at another time to find out.
The parkerhouse rolls and tasty nutty bread roll were good, but not warm, and the butter was whipped nicely for spreading. The wines are all about $12-19 by the glass and I enjoyed my Framingham Sauvignon Blanc 2009 from New Zealand, but kept it to one glass (it is a good pour from a tiny carafe) as I had a long opera.
A young woman brought over a small shot glass of tasty Cauliflower Soup "from the chef," as an amuse. I noticed this was her only job around the entire restaurant all evening.
I chose the SKUNA BAY SALMON & SHRIMP MAKI ROLL with Shiso, Cucumber and Miso-Yuzu Sauce which was a nice 6 -piece sushi portion.
The restaurant is seafood centric and specializes in sushi and raw bar specialties as well, and while this was nice, I have been more impressed recently (like at Natsumi in Times Square a couple of weeks ago).
I wanted fish and the 3 main courses were steak, pasta with seafood or the SCOTTISH SALMON a la Plancha, which I chose and came with Chive Spaetzle, Braised Red Cabbage, Almonds and a Cider Beurre Blanc Sauce.
The dish was indeed tasty and the salmon, with its crispy skin atop, superb.
Only the cabbage was too intense and indeed overpowered the sauce and the entire dish. I adored the tasty small spaetzle and more of these would have been welcome as they were quite small and spread out. The portion was a good size, but it was just not well thought out.
I chose the Lemon Meringue Tart for dessert which came with Strawberry
Sorbet on a bed of chocolate crunch and a dash of Vanilla Anglaise. It was a
good lemon flavor, but the pastry was a dud. I could only remember my Passion
Fruit Meringue from Empellon Taqueria in the West Village last month (the one
drizzled with Mescal and that soft mezcal infused meringue). The pastry chef at
Atlantic Grill had little love for this basic and unexciting tart.
Tonight--TELEPAN for a tasting.(NYC does not offer Restaurant Week on
Saturdays at most locations)
Friday, February 08, 2013
District Commons Restaurant Week is wonderful(2-7-13)
Restaurant week continued for us in DC as we took a friend to a birthday
dinner at District Commons (www.districtcommonsdc.com) which was
heaving when we arrived at 6:30pm. This can be a problem during Restaurant Week,
but the service never failed and our server Eric, as well and general manager,
Boo, made sure al our needs were handled. It was a superb experience
overall.
On a previous visit, Samuel had discovered the Pretzel Bread which is divine, especially when shmeared with the accompanying mustard butter!
We tasted the Ship of Fools 2011 Pinot Gris/Pinot Blanc and passed it up as slightly sweet and went for a wonderful Cardinal Point 2011 Viognier from Virginia for our appetizer fish courses:
the special for the day which needs to be added to the menu was the
SCALLOPS over Arugula & Pickled Red Onion with Crispy Bacon in Orange Butter--this dish had everything going for it, especially that caramelized sweetness on the scallops, and was quite large to boot.
SEAFOOD CHOWDER is always a hit here loaded with fish and shellfish and hot and creamy on a cold night.
2nd DATE CAESAR SALAD is one of the best in town with a lighter than usual dressing (I hate it when it's too thick and creamy) and a nice spattering of yummy white anchovies.
On a previous visit, Samuel had discovered the Pretzel Bread which is divine, especially when shmeared with the accompanying mustard butter!
We tasted the Ship of Fools 2011 Pinot Gris/Pinot Blanc and passed it up as slightly sweet and went for a wonderful Cardinal Point 2011 Viognier from Virginia for our appetizer fish courses:
the special for the day which needs to be added to the menu was the
SCALLOPS over Arugula & Pickled Red Onion with Crispy Bacon in Orange Butter--this dish had everything going for it, especially that caramelized sweetness on the scallops, and was quite large to boot.
SEAFOOD CHOWDER is always a hit here loaded with fish and shellfish and hot and creamy on a cold night.
2nd DATE CAESAR SALAD is one of the best in town with a lighter than usual dressing (I hate it when it's too thick and creamy) and a nice spattering of yummy white anchovies.
We moved on to a superb Darcie Kent Petite Sirah 2008 Madden Ranch which
goes well with lots of varied dishes (it's available by the glass) and it was
indeed just right with even the
Grilled SALMON, Parsnip Puree (rich and intense), Roasted Honey Mushrooms and Warm Truffle Vinaigrette.
The District Common BURGER is made with Braised Pineland Farms Shortribs for super flavor and has a sweet & spicy slaw with AP sauce and a side of yummy fries with lemon-garlic aioli.
I had to return to the Roasted DUCK Low & Slow with Wild Rice & Sweet Potato Hash, Sorghum Chili and Samuel was entranced with his
PORK RACK CHOP Blue Ribbon stuffed with Benton Ham & Mozzarella. He chose to have fries with his instead of the regular sides. We were okay with that.
The $35.13 dinner includes dessert and we were way past full but dove into the CHOCOLATE BANANA CAKE which came with salted caramel sauce and Chocolate Ice Cream that was an intense and rich homemade variety.
Boston Cream Pie is deconstructed here and also a nice choice.
Before we left the macaroons, cranberry pear pecan treats, berry gelees, wonder bars and vanilla bean shortbreads appeared. I had one wonder bar and we packed the rest up "for later......"
What a wonderful meal.
Grilled SALMON, Parsnip Puree (rich and intense), Roasted Honey Mushrooms and Warm Truffle Vinaigrette.
The District Common BURGER is made with Braised Pineland Farms Shortribs for super flavor and has a sweet & spicy slaw with AP sauce and a side of yummy fries with lemon-garlic aioli.
I had to return to the Roasted DUCK Low & Slow with Wild Rice & Sweet Potato Hash, Sorghum Chili and Samuel was entranced with his
PORK RACK CHOP Blue Ribbon stuffed with Benton Ham & Mozzarella. He chose to have fries with his instead of the regular sides. We were okay with that.
The $35.13 dinner includes dessert and we were way past full but dove into the CHOCOLATE BANANA CAKE which came with salted caramel sauce and Chocolate Ice Cream that was an intense and rich homemade variety.
Boston Cream Pie is deconstructed here and also a nice choice.
Before we left the macaroons, cranberry pear pecan treats, berry gelees, wonder bars and vanilla bean shortbreads appeared. I had one wonder bar and we packed the rest up "for later......"
What a wonderful meal.
Wednesday, February 06, 2013
make it MIO and Restaurant Week will fill you (2-5-13)
We had not been to MIO in it's 6+ year existence, which is a shame. Last night we discovered a truly warm, friendly, Latin establishment that we will return to for sure.
MIO (http://www.miorestaurant.com) is right on Vermont & L downtown (street parking) and was jammed last night as Restaurant Week is on and the prices are $35.13 for three courses (albeit from a very limited menu). The choices here are wide and the food is indeed VERY filling.
We were warmly greeted by owner Manuel Iguina at the entry, who keeps a hawk's eye on every going on. He checked with us and always was cheery. We did tell him that we thought the very loud woman in the corner (which we called the "cackle corner") was having high-pitched piercing cackling orgasms; he laughed alot. Yes, the din this week is a bit too loud for us, but perhaps when it's less busy, the place is calmer.
I had thought MIO was Italian - stupid moi - and promised Samuel pasta, but he would have none of the Latin dishes, not even the Puerto Rican Lasagna! Uh-oh! Well, he loves steak and garlic and was thrilled with a main course of CHURRASCO skirt steak with chunky ajili mojili (Puerto Rican garlic sauce). Our wonderful server, Daniela (who was 7 months pregnant!!!) even offered to replace the rice and tostones with superb cheese, cilantro, garlic fries.
Will started with a Spicy Machu Pisco with Aji Amarillo, Passion Fruit and Lime Sour which was a bit too sweet. My Mio Margarita was divine with Tequila, Cointreau and Blood Orange. Samuel discovered the Virgin LimeAid Mojito! We moved on to a superb smooth bottle of Tierra Crianza Tempranillo 2009 from Rioja that Daniela suggested and was spot on with. Oddly the front of the bottle said 2009, but the back said 2008?!
Manuel's wife Karla is in the kitchen, and she loves the food she creates; it is clear. Will and I both started with the Pastelrelleno, a Puerto Rican Pastel (enchilada in banana leaf) stuffed with chicken in pimento sauce. It was quite filling, but do watch out for small chicken bones as Karla leaves them in for extra flavor.
Samuel tired the Tostones starter with beans, escabeche and cured salmon, but would only eat the crunchy tostone on the bottom. Will and I polished off the tasty bean and flavorful salmon!
For the main course, Will and I both had Chuleta de Cerdo, a tasty boneless pork chop with a yummy rum sauce, stir fired kale and a divine Yuca Mofongo. I haven't a decent mofongo in ages and this was a good one with the escabeche-like kale spread over it.
I forgot to mention the bread which is superb, crusty and warm and comes with the most divine cilantro-garlic butter than even the no-butter Samuel adored.
Dessert was a success with CHOCOLATE CUATRO LECHES and COCONUT CARIBBEAN TIRAMISU (more of a gelled custard cake than tiramusu) being medium-size portions that had us beyond full!
It was a great restaurant week start-off, even with my Mio mistake!
MIO (http://www.miorestaurant.com) is right on Vermont & L downtown (street parking) and was jammed last night as Restaurant Week is on and the prices are $35.13 for three courses (albeit from a very limited menu). The choices here are wide and the food is indeed VERY filling.
We were warmly greeted by owner Manuel Iguina at the entry, who keeps a hawk's eye on every going on. He checked with us and always was cheery. We did tell him that we thought the very loud woman in the corner (which we called the "cackle corner") was having high-pitched piercing cackling orgasms; he laughed alot. Yes, the din this week is a bit too loud for us, but perhaps when it's less busy, the place is calmer.
I had thought MIO was Italian - stupid moi - and promised Samuel pasta, but he would have none of the Latin dishes, not even the Puerto Rican Lasagna! Uh-oh! Well, he loves steak and garlic and was thrilled with a main course of CHURRASCO skirt steak with chunky ajili mojili (Puerto Rican garlic sauce). Our wonderful server, Daniela (who was 7 months pregnant!!!) even offered to replace the rice and tostones with superb cheese, cilantro, garlic fries.
Will started with a Spicy Machu Pisco with Aji Amarillo, Passion Fruit and Lime Sour which was a bit too sweet. My Mio Margarita was divine with Tequila, Cointreau and Blood Orange. Samuel discovered the Virgin LimeAid Mojito! We moved on to a superb smooth bottle of Tierra Crianza Tempranillo 2009 from Rioja that Daniela suggested and was spot on with. Oddly the front of the bottle said 2009, but the back said 2008?!
Manuel's wife Karla is in the kitchen, and she loves the food she creates; it is clear. Will and I both started with the Pastelrelleno, a Puerto Rican Pastel (enchilada in banana leaf) stuffed with chicken in pimento sauce. It was quite filling, but do watch out for small chicken bones as Karla leaves them in for extra flavor.
Samuel tired the Tostones starter with beans, escabeche and cured salmon, but would only eat the crunchy tostone on the bottom. Will and I polished off the tasty bean and flavorful salmon!
For the main course, Will and I both had Chuleta de Cerdo, a tasty boneless pork chop with a yummy rum sauce, stir fired kale and a divine Yuca Mofongo. I haven't a decent mofongo in ages and this was a good one with the escabeche-like kale spread over it.
I forgot to mention the bread which is superb, crusty and warm and comes with the most divine cilantro-garlic butter than even the no-butter Samuel adored.
Dessert was a success with CHOCOLATE CUATRO LECHES and COCONUT CARIBBEAN TIRAMISU (more of a gelled custard cake than tiramusu) being medium-size portions that had us beyond full!
It was a great restaurant week start-off, even with my Mio mistake!
Monday, February 04, 2013
Falls Church, VA's PEKING GOURMET is still great! Happy Chinese New Year (2-3-13)
Last night we joined dear friends for a birthday celebration at Falls Church's renowned PEKING GOURMET (http://www.pekinggourmet.com/) which is actually less than 10 minutes from the Potomac bridges to Virginia without traffic! It was a grand feast indeed and also an early celebration of the Chinese New Year (next weekend).
We drank (Samuel had a magnificently decorated Shirley Temple and then a Mango Smoothie--also replete with fans, straws and more) yummy rich Four Hearts Vineyard Chardonnay 2009 from Hartford Court Winery in the Russian River Valley as well as a 2010 Foley Santa Rita Hills Pinot Noir.
When we arrived there were those irresistible Chinese noodles on the lazy Susan and we gobbled them up with an even more irresistible Sweet Garlic Sauce which is a wonderful honey-based garlic sauce that is to die for.
Pan Fried Pork Dumplings came first and these are served with your choice of various sauces. There was a soy marinade chock full of jalapeno slices that was perfect. I asked how they get the peppers so mild, and was told by our charming server, Wendy, that the marinades are prepared in the morning so that by evening the jalapeno has become milder--it's perfect. There were also vinegar sauces and a hot chili oil if you need that extra spice.
Vegetable Spring Rolls were crisp and not the least bit greasy and here more sauces arrived in the form of hot Chinese mustard along with sweet & sour.
Back to Wendy, our dream server.....I asked her what her original name was and it was very hard to pronounce, then asked how it became Wendy. She told us that her smile was like Wendy's in Peter Pan--HUUUGE! And it is!
The PEKING DUCK presentation is amazing at Peking Gourmet and worth the splurge. The duck is carved tableside without a touch of fat, the skin perfectly sliced along side it, so you can choose if you wish to make it with just meat or meat and skin in the pancakes. The servers come from all sides to prepare your first pancake with the tasty hoisin sauce, which is not too sweet here as it can often be too cloying. Cucumbers and scallion slices are also served making a truly perfect dish.
Seafood Pan Fried Noodles are homemade and very different from the traditional lo mein or other Chinese noodles. This style is from the north and is closer to a dumpling-style noodle and loaded with shrimp, scallops and amazing tasty Chinese, Tree and Black Mushrooms that are so earthy they really imbue the dish with an extra flavor.
Four Season String Beans are smothered with Garlic and then seasoned with fresh simmered onions and soy sauce; this was a dish that even Sam adored, as we all did.
JEO-YEN SHRIMP are a highlight (well, everything is!) and come with that amazing sweet garlic sauce from the start!
LAMB CHOPS PEKING STYLE are something one does not usually hear about at Chinese establishments. Here, they are tasty New Zealand racks that have been lightly crusted and then deep fried to a medium rare perfection.
Since Chinese desserts are not famed, our friends brought their own HUGE dessert from Gerard's Pastries in Prince George's where they live: a gigantic apple tart loaded with cream in a flaky pastry shell a la PARIS BREST. The restaurant complimented this with MANGO Ice Cream and Candied Walnuts as well as the necessary Fortune Cookies. Another gift from our hosts was an amazing 2006 Bouchaine Bouche d'Or Chardonnay Dessert Wine that disappeared fast!
To quote a famous personage:
I can't believe I ate the whole thing!
Happy Birthday!
We drank (Samuel had a magnificently decorated Shirley Temple and then a Mango Smoothie--also replete with fans, straws and more) yummy rich Four Hearts Vineyard Chardonnay 2009 from Hartford Court Winery in the Russian River Valley as well as a 2010 Foley Santa Rita Hills Pinot Noir.
When we arrived there were those irresistible Chinese noodles on the lazy Susan and we gobbled them up with an even more irresistible Sweet Garlic Sauce which is a wonderful honey-based garlic sauce that is to die for.
Pan Fried Pork Dumplings came first and these are served with your choice of various sauces. There was a soy marinade chock full of jalapeno slices that was perfect. I asked how they get the peppers so mild, and was told by our charming server, Wendy, that the marinades are prepared in the morning so that by evening the jalapeno has become milder--it's perfect. There were also vinegar sauces and a hot chili oil if you need that extra spice.
Vegetable Spring Rolls were crisp and not the least bit greasy and here more sauces arrived in the form of hot Chinese mustard along with sweet & sour.
Back to Wendy, our dream server.....I asked her what her original name was and it was very hard to pronounce, then asked how it became Wendy. She told us that her smile was like Wendy's in Peter Pan--HUUUGE! And it is!
The PEKING DUCK presentation is amazing at Peking Gourmet and worth the splurge. The duck is carved tableside without a touch of fat, the skin perfectly sliced along side it, so you can choose if you wish to make it with just meat or meat and skin in the pancakes. The servers come from all sides to prepare your first pancake with the tasty hoisin sauce, which is not too sweet here as it can often be too cloying. Cucumbers and scallion slices are also served making a truly perfect dish.
Seafood Pan Fried Noodles are homemade and very different from the traditional lo mein or other Chinese noodles. This style is from the north and is closer to a dumpling-style noodle and loaded with shrimp, scallops and amazing tasty Chinese, Tree and Black Mushrooms that are so earthy they really imbue the dish with an extra flavor.
Four Season String Beans are smothered with Garlic and then seasoned with fresh simmered onions and soy sauce; this was a dish that even Sam adored, as we all did.
JEO-YEN SHRIMP are a highlight (well, everything is!) and come with that amazing sweet garlic sauce from the start!
LAMB CHOPS PEKING STYLE are something one does not usually hear about at Chinese establishments. Here, they are tasty New Zealand racks that have been lightly crusted and then deep fried to a medium rare perfection.
Since Chinese desserts are not famed, our friends brought their own HUGE dessert from Gerard's Pastries in Prince George's where they live: a gigantic apple tart loaded with cream in a flaky pastry shell a la PARIS BREST. The restaurant complimented this with MANGO Ice Cream and Candied Walnuts as well as the necessary Fortune Cookies. Another gift from our hosts was an amazing 2006 Bouchaine Bouche d'Or Chardonnay Dessert Wine that disappeared fast!
To quote a famous personage:
I can't believe I ate the whole thing!
Happy Birthday!
Sunday, January 27, 2013
all aboard for ALOBAR at the James Beard House (1-27-13)
As you know I am a member of the James Beard Foundation which allows
me to sign up for many of their fabulous in house events. Today, I
attended my first Sunday brunch ever there and, as always, it was a
treat and lots of fun.
Chef IAN KAPITAN and Beverage Director CHESS LANKFORD of ALOBAR
Restaurant in Long Island City were in charge and they did an
admirable and in many cases brilliant job.
The arrival drink was a SPICED BELLINI with Prosecco, White Peach,
Jalapeno & mint simple syrup and a splash of St. Germain. The spice
was mild and I was sad when I went to the bar for a refill to find out
that we were about to be seated for brunch.
The passed hor's d'oevres were a mixed bag and the kitchen seemed
unable to churn them out as fast as we could gobble them up. When I
attend dinners, the cocktail hour is almost an hour, but at brunch
it's 30 minutes, so for some reason I never did see the DUCK CONFIT
SLOPPY JOES. The winner, in its absence, was the CRAB BLT with a
spiced Fried Green Tomato. The Mini Poached Quail Egg and Porchetta de
Testa (head cheese) Eggs Benedict was okay and the Cinnamon Sugared
Donuts were a bloody mess to handle as they were "glued" to the plate
on a dab of messy chocolate sauce and the donuts were sandwiched with
a Coffee Gelee that slid out. OMG!
We sat down and a WARM LOBSTER SALAD with Frisee (I do wish it was
field greens), Fingerling Potatoes, Bacon Lardons and Smoked Shallot
Vinaigrette appeared. With the NYC temps hovering at 20 degrees, I was
thankful for the "warm" salad and it was indeed tasty. Laurent Miquel
2010 VIOGNIER from Languedoc was anice pairing.
I was excited to see the next wine on the menu as we had visited and
loved Red Newt this summer; one of their wines was also served at the
Inauguration last week. RIESLING 2010 Red Newt from the Finger Lakes
was a perfect wine with the Roasted WILD MUSHROOMS, Smoked Ricotta,
Red Wine Gastric and Grilled Red Wine Bread, Purple Pickled Cabbage
with Sunny Side Up Duck Egg. There was a bit too much bread, but the
wine made it great and the overall dish was gobbled up by all oh so
fast.
The next course was again too bread-centric with FOIE GRAS(a tad),
DUCK CONFIT CROQUE MADAME, Fried Egg and Maple Syrup Gastric. The
gastric had figs for a bit more sweetness and was nice, but I was over
all the bread and eggs (I guess that's brunch!). The Micro Greens were
fab with pepper and licorice (must have been fennel green) hints, and
since it was a croque madame, there was an added slab of ham.
The CALINA Carmenere 2010 from Maule Chile was a yummy pairing.
The final drink was the winner:
LEMON MERINGUE COCKTAIL with Limoncello, Domain de Canton, lemon juice
and frothed egg whites. These disappeared before dessert arrived in
the form of one of the best ever CHOCOLATE BREAD PUDDINGs with Salted
Caramel and Ginger Ice Cream.
I left happy knowing that the diet must re-start again tomorrow!
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me to sign up for many of their fabulous in house events. Today, I
attended my first Sunday brunch ever there and, as always, it was a
treat and lots of fun.
Chef IAN KAPITAN and Beverage Director CHESS LANKFORD of ALOBAR
Restaurant in Long Island City were in charge and they did an
admirable and in many cases brilliant job.
The arrival drink was a SPICED BELLINI with Prosecco, White Peach,
Jalapeno & mint simple syrup and a splash of St. Germain. The spice
was mild and I was sad when I went to the bar for a refill to find out
that we were about to be seated for brunch.
The passed hor's d'oevres were a mixed bag and the kitchen seemed
unable to churn them out as fast as we could gobble them up. When I
attend dinners, the cocktail hour is almost an hour, but at brunch
it's 30 minutes, so for some reason I never did see the DUCK CONFIT
SLOPPY JOES. The winner, in its absence, was the CRAB BLT with a
spiced Fried Green Tomato. The Mini Poached Quail Egg and Porchetta de
Testa (head cheese) Eggs Benedict was okay and the Cinnamon Sugared
Donuts were a bloody mess to handle as they were "glued" to the plate
on a dab of messy chocolate sauce and the donuts were sandwiched with
a Coffee Gelee that slid out. OMG!
We sat down and a WARM LOBSTER SALAD with Frisee (I do wish it was
field greens), Fingerling Potatoes, Bacon Lardons and Smoked Shallot
Vinaigrette appeared. With the NYC temps hovering at 20 degrees, I was
thankful for the "warm" salad and it was indeed tasty. Laurent Miquel
2010 VIOGNIER from Languedoc was anice pairing.
I was excited to see the next wine on the menu as we had visited and
loved Red Newt this summer; one of their wines was also served at the
Inauguration last week. RIESLING 2010 Red Newt from the Finger Lakes
was a perfect wine with the Roasted WILD MUSHROOMS, Smoked Ricotta,
Red Wine Gastric and Grilled Red Wine Bread, Purple Pickled Cabbage
with Sunny Side Up Duck Egg. There was a bit too much bread, but the
wine made it great and the overall dish was gobbled up by all oh so
fast.
The next course was again too bread-centric with FOIE GRAS(a tad),
DUCK CONFIT CROQUE MADAME, Fried Egg and Maple Syrup Gastric. The
gastric had figs for a bit more sweetness and was nice, but I was over
all the bread and eggs (I guess that's brunch!). The Micro Greens were
fab with pepper and licorice (must have been fennel green) hints, and
since it was a croque madame, there was an added slab of ham.
The CALINA Carmenere 2010 from Maule Chile was a yummy pairing.
The final drink was the winner:
LEMON MERINGUE COCKTAIL with Limoncello, Domain de Canton, lemon juice
and frothed egg whites. These disappeared before dessert arrived in
the form of one of the best ever CHOCOLATE BREAD PUDDINGs with Salted
Caramel and Ginger Ice Cream.
I left happy knowing that the diet must re-start again tomorrow!
--
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NATSUMI is your natural choice for sushi in NY's Times Square (1-26-13)
For years, I returned over and over to NATSUMI (226 West 50th-off Bway www.natsuminyc.com) and always enjoyed the
food, service and ambiance.
Last night, I arrived pre-opera at 5:30pm and despite the below 20degree chill in NYC, the place was jammed. I guess it has caught on, although all the folks sitting with me at the sushi bar all seemed to be from out of town!
You don't get much conversation from the three sushi chefs at the bar as they are all Japanese and converse amongst themselves in their native tongue. Every now and then you can ask a question and get a one word or maybe two word answer, which is often difficult to decipher, especially when asking what's in that!
Many sushi places (especially in Florida) have Latino sushi chefs these days leading to a huge Latino-Japanese fusion cuisine that is wondrous. Here, NATSUMI has taken a twist that really works well: Italo-Japanese fusion.
Last night, I arrived pre-opera at 5:30pm and despite the below 20degree chill in NYC, the place was jammed. I guess it has caught on, although all the folks sitting with me at the sushi bar all seemed to be from out of town!
You don't get much conversation from the three sushi chefs at the bar as they are all Japanese and converse amongst themselves in their native tongue. Every now and then you can ask a question and get a one word or maybe two word answer, which is often difficult to decipher, especially when asking what's in that!
Many sushi places (especially in Florida) have Latino sushi chefs these days leading to a huge Latino-Japanese fusion cuisine that is wondrous. Here, NATSUMI has taken a twist that really works well: Italo-Japanese fusion.
It is Restaurant Weeks in NYC (thru Feb 8) and many spots are offfering up
3-course menus for $38, and while most restaurants do not do not offer this
option on Saturday nights (but their "week" is two weeks long!), Natsumi was
happy to say they were doing it despite the Saturday.
I started with a SPICY MARGARITA made with Japaleno-infused "Riazul" and
orange liqueur. It was spicy, but a bit on the small side.
I immediately was drawn to the starter of GREEN TEA GNOCCHI made with
spinach in a dark, yet creamy mushroom-green tea sauce with capers and
asparagus. It was rich and heavy and quite a huge portion, so I was happy that I
had chosen the CHEF OMAKASE Platter for my main course.
The first platter passed across the sushi bar from one of the chefs to me was a small one of four slices of SALMON CARPACCIO in a Citrus/Lemon Dressing with Capers. The fish was some of the best ever and the chef told me it came from Scotland. Simple with respect for the fish, yet a pithy sauce that you could take just a dribble of, or a big dip if you wanted more lemon.
The first platter passed across the sushi bar from one of the chefs to me was a small one of four slices of SALMON CARPACCIO in a Citrus/Lemon Dressing with Capers. The fish was some of the best ever and the chef told me it came from Scotland. Simple with respect for the fish, yet a pithy sauce that you could take just a dribble of, or a big dip if you wanted more lemon.
Next came the Malaise featuring a Six piece roll of WHITE TUNA SUSHI with
Cucumber and Peperonicini. Here is where the Italian fusion melds (well, it did
of course with the gnocchi as well) perfectly making a wonderful new flavor in
the top notch sushi. The plate was filled out with five pieces of
SASHIMI:
Salmon Toro (even better than the amazing appetizer)
Fluke
Yellowtail Toro
Big Eye Tuna Toro
and White Tuna
All were as tender as I have had in any great sushi place, here the tuna and salmon both melted in my mouth and were truly epicurean pleasures.
Salmon Toro (even better than the amazing appetizer)
Fluke
Yellowtail Toro
Big Eye Tuna Toro
and White Tuna
All were as tender as I have had in any great sushi place, here the tuna and salmon both melted in my mouth and were truly epicurean pleasures.
A glass of Pear Sake was offered which was nice, but a bit sweet for me. I
prefer the traditional Junmai Gingo.
Dessert was Natsumi's signature TEMPURA CHEESECAKE which comes with
raspberry coulis and fresh mango cubes. I could eat only part of it as it is so
rich and while I adore it, a half portion is my maximum.
Natsumi is really a great place for everyone as there is something for
everyone from pasta to steaks to fish!
Friday, January 25, 2013
totally taken by TOSCA (1-24-13)
As we entered TOSCA (www.toscadc.com) last night, we mentioned that it had been many years since our last visit. The hostess reminded me that it was indeed 5 years! Oops.
Well, there is a reason for our long delay and was due to the disappointing departure of our friend, Chef Cesare Lanfranconi. Time heals, and we returned with friends to discover the fine Italian dining establishment still running smoothly with excellent cuisine and as always, a wonderful staff.
It was hard to decide whether to order a tasting menu or a la carte, so we mused over the options while quaffing a superb DOLCETTO d'ALBA "Casa Vinola" 2011 from Bruno Giacosa. Ultimately, three of us choose the shorter fish tasting menu and our other friend went for the Insalata Radicchio (with Bartlett Pears, Gorgonzola Terrine and Toasted Walnuts), the FETTUCCINE (with Rosemary & Thyme in a Roasted Leg of Wild Boar Ragu with olives and Salsify) and the VEAL CHOP with Baby Chard and Artichokes all of which got high grades.
Before we started a gorgeous amuse of a head-on PRAWN with Fennel Sauce (really puree) & Brussels Sprouts. The fennel was as mild as could be and the seasoning on the prawn was superb, so much so that I had to suck all that delish flavor out of the yummy head! Miniature Tomato Bruschetta with shaved Ubriaco also arrived as did the tasty breads (focaccia and country style).
The tasting menu can be ordered with wines and we decided to do that which was an excellent choice for the 4 wines were $45 total. First came INSALATA d'ASTICE, a salad chock full of LOBSTER with Heirloom CAULIFLOWER, Burrata with Caviar and a Diavola Sauce. This dish was chilled and frankly divine, but I couldn't help wishing for something warmer on one of the coldest nights of the year. I think the lobster would be a perfect warm-weather dish. The wine was a perfect FEUDI di SAN GREGORIO 2010 Fiano d'Arelinno, which is always a great choice in any Italian restaurant.
The pasta course was PANSATI, small ravioli filled with CRAB & ARTICHOKE with yummy Black Trumpet Mushrroms in a delish White Wine and Mussel Sauce. It was rich, but just the right size not to be too filling. SOAVE CLASSICO was from Suavia (a new winery for me) 2009 "Monte Carbonare," and the creamy wine was again perfect with the dish.
Our main coarse was the highlight of the meal and the perfectly cooked MERLUZZO (COD) was roasted in a HAZELNUT Crust and served over a bed of Black Truffle CABBAGE with Rainbow Marble POTATOES with Capers and a Brown Butter Sauce. The crust was perfect and the cabbage was a new take with the truffle infusion. BARBERA d'ALBA "Costerno Fantino" 2009 from Vignota was a heavier red than the Dolcetto and a brilliant choice for this huge fish dish that begged for red wine rather than the too-often-assumed white. Our excellent server Atilo was even nice enough to give an extra pour of the superb wine.
This tasting menu comes with the modernized TIRAMISU in a martini glass created by Chef Cesare when it opened 11 years ago (Tosca is actually named for his daughter) and is still excellent. We tried several different desserts as well:
Bichhiere al PECAN is a Pecan Sundae with Vanilla Gelato with both Chocolate & Bourbon Caramel Sauces
with Cranberry Compote
Tartella al Pomopelmo is a Pink GRAPEFRUIT tart with Grapefruit curd, sweet Mascarpone, almond macaron, basil gelee, Campari syrup and crispy meringue --sadly I can't do the grapefruit thing!
Tortino al Cioccolato-WARM CHOCOLATE CAKE with vanilla gelato, poached kumquats and Sicilian pistachios was mine and got raves from those who tasted for the molten chocolate cake (Sam would have adored this) and the genius addition of the salted Pistachios!
MALVASIA Della Lipari 2007 was a perfect dessert wine with these very sweet tastes, which were followed by a small plate of chocolate cookies and even better, salted oatmeal spice cookies!!!
Now that we have been back, we promise not to take so long to return to TOSCA.
Well, there is a reason for our long delay and was due to the disappointing departure of our friend, Chef Cesare Lanfranconi. Time heals, and we returned with friends to discover the fine Italian dining establishment still running smoothly with excellent cuisine and as always, a wonderful staff.
It was hard to decide whether to order a tasting menu or a la carte, so we mused over the options while quaffing a superb DOLCETTO d'ALBA "Casa Vinola" 2011 from Bruno Giacosa. Ultimately, three of us choose the shorter fish tasting menu and our other friend went for the Insalata Radicchio (with Bartlett Pears, Gorgonzola Terrine and Toasted Walnuts), the FETTUCCINE (with Rosemary & Thyme in a Roasted Leg of Wild Boar Ragu with olives and Salsify) and the VEAL CHOP with Baby Chard and Artichokes all of which got high grades.
Before we started a gorgeous amuse of a head-on PRAWN with Fennel Sauce (really puree) & Brussels Sprouts. The fennel was as mild as could be and the seasoning on the prawn was superb, so much so that I had to suck all that delish flavor out of the yummy head! Miniature Tomato Bruschetta with shaved Ubriaco also arrived as did the tasty breads (focaccia and country style).
The tasting menu can be ordered with wines and we decided to do that which was an excellent choice for the 4 wines were $45 total. First came INSALATA d'ASTICE, a salad chock full of LOBSTER with Heirloom CAULIFLOWER, Burrata with Caviar and a Diavola Sauce. This dish was chilled and frankly divine, but I couldn't help wishing for something warmer on one of the coldest nights of the year. I think the lobster would be a perfect warm-weather dish. The wine was a perfect FEUDI di SAN GREGORIO 2010 Fiano d'Arelinno, which is always a great choice in any Italian restaurant.
The pasta course was PANSATI, small ravioli filled with CRAB & ARTICHOKE with yummy Black Trumpet Mushrroms in a delish White Wine and Mussel Sauce. It was rich, but just the right size not to be too filling. SOAVE CLASSICO was from Suavia (a new winery for me) 2009 "Monte Carbonare," and the creamy wine was again perfect with the dish.
Our main coarse was the highlight of the meal and the perfectly cooked MERLUZZO (COD) was roasted in a HAZELNUT Crust and served over a bed of Black Truffle CABBAGE with Rainbow Marble POTATOES with Capers and a Brown Butter Sauce. The crust was perfect and the cabbage was a new take with the truffle infusion. BARBERA d'ALBA "Costerno Fantino" 2009 from Vignota was a heavier red than the Dolcetto and a brilliant choice for this huge fish dish that begged for red wine rather than the too-often-assumed white. Our excellent server Atilo was even nice enough to give an extra pour of the superb wine.
This tasting menu comes with the modernized TIRAMISU in a martini glass created by Chef Cesare when it opened 11 years ago (Tosca is actually named for his daughter) and is still excellent. We tried several different desserts as well:
Bichhiere al PECAN is a Pecan Sundae with Vanilla Gelato with both Chocolate & Bourbon Caramel Sauces
with Cranberry Compote
Tartella al Pomopelmo is a Pink GRAPEFRUIT tart with Grapefruit curd, sweet Mascarpone, almond macaron, basil gelee, Campari syrup and crispy meringue --sadly I can't do the grapefruit thing!
Tortino al Cioccolato-WARM CHOCOLATE CAKE with vanilla gelato, poached kumquats and Sicilian pistachios was mine and got raves from those who tasted for the molten chocolate cake (Sam would have adored this) and the genius addition of the salted Pistachios!
MALVASIA Della Lipari 2007 was a perfect dessert wine with these very sweet tastes, which were followed by a small plate of chocolate cookies and even better, salted oatmeal spice cookies!!!
Now that we have been back, we promise not to take so long to return to TOSCA.
Thursday, January 24, 2013
Wow what a wine dinner at Restaurant EVE with luscious LINDEN and R.d.V. reds(1-23-13)
Last night, I was one of twenty very lucky people to dine at one of the region's top restaurants, Alexandria's RESTAURANT EVE, and even better, I was seated at the table with both winemaker's, Jim Law of Linden and Rutger deVink of R.d.V., two of Virginia's most esteemed vignerons.
As we arrived Linden ROSE, Bordeaux Blend 2011 was being poured. While it was a bitter cold night, and this wine is truly a summer wine, we could appreciate the Cab, Merlot, Cab Franc blend that is bone dry and pairs so well with so many things, such as the multiple passed hor's d'oevres:
Salmon Mousse
Foie Gras
Deviled Quail Egg
Pulled Head Cheese
Now these are vague descriptions as they were not printed on our menus tableside, so I must try and recall from memory. All were amazing and it was hard to resist having seconds or thirds (I had to have two of the eggs!). Credit goes to the chef, though, as these were indeed tiny smaller than bite-size portions and not the type of treats one could overdose on in the 20-30 minutes or so before we sat down (well, I guess you could if you really pigged out!).
What was so special about last night, other than the superb company, food and wine, was the fact that the ingredients on the divine Tasting menu, and the wines as well, were all locally sourced from farms and markets in our region.
Amuses arrived with a tiny miniature cast iron pot topped with a Rutabaga Chip with Chevre Panna Cotta and Fuji Apples. Next came a small spoon of Grapefruit Sorbet with Fennel Pollen, which I skipped in that my statin intake would be marred by the grapefruit.
The first course was SASHIMI of Winter FLOUNDER with Butternut Squash Coulis, Crispy Lentils and Avenius Vinaigrette paired with Linden "Avenius Vineyard" 2011 Sauvignon Blanc. Mr. Law explained that this vintage when bottled had huge acidity and that while he "likes his SB to be a nervous wine" that it did temper with time.The intensity of the wine was amazing with the light fish as there was definitely a strong spice ( we never did find out) in the coulis (paprika, chili, cumin, or something that worked) that was an amazing pairing. The small rolls of sashimi were truly of the best quality and had such amazing flavor; I was tempted to ask for more.
Next came Pan Roasted MAINE DIVER SCALLOP with Wild Mushrooms, Sunchoke Cream, Smoked Buttermilk & Young Chives. Here the wine was the luscious LINDEN "Hardscrabble Vineyard" 2009 Chardonnay that we discovered is now sold out at the vineyard. Lucky for us, there was an opportunity to buy some locally at the end of the meal! Old oak features in this wine which is truly a landmark varietal for Linden and indeed all of Virginia.
Beaver Creek Farm's QUAIL with Creamed Parsnips, Dried Cherry Relish and Foie-Gras Quail Emulsion was divine. I loved the fact that there were many whole cherries in the tasty relish which was less relish or compote as it was not sweet or tart (other than the cherries' natural tartness). Our last Linden wine was the "Hardscrabble" 2008 Bordeaux Blend made from Cab, Merlot, Cab Franc & Petit Verdot and featured wide arced legs in the glass with huge flavor in the mouth. These are the kinds of wines that could win "the Judgement of Paris."
We were then introduced to winemaker Rutger deVink whose first vintage of R.d.V. came in 2008. That year he made the wines at Linden, but now has his own winery in Delaplane. These wines have hit the market fiercely indeed and his two reds (he only makes two wines) go for $86 and $79 respectively (the most expensive wine sold in Virginia)!
First we had the higher priced RdV "Lost Mountain Vineyard" 2009 Bordeaux Blend which is mostly Cabernet Sauvignon. It's a huge wine and needs cellaring for sure, but I could not get a "good to drink" year from Mr. deVink as he said the wine needs to be tasted each year and then we can figure out, as it is so new. Well, I guess I will do that with my three bottles! The wine was brilliantly paired with LOIN of Chapel Hill Farm's (in Berryville, VA) Randall Lineback with Crisp SWEETBREAD, Salsify Puree & Black Pepper Braised Shallots.
The "cheese" course, which is always a novelty and pleasure at EVE was truly conceived by love: Oregon CAVEMAN BLUE with Caramelized ONION TART, Smoked Maple BACON and Red-Eye Gravy. This was way more than a cheese course; it was an experience. It was served with the R.d.V. 2009 Rendezvous Red Bordeaux Blend (but mostly Merlot) which blew everyone away, especially with the pairing.
Roasted QUINCE with SAFFRON RICOTTA and CAJETA Ice Cream was last and served with one of my all-time favorites (we had just opened a bottle last week at home) of Linden "Late Harvest" VIDAL BLANC 2006 that is again one of Virginia's best dessert wines.
As if this was not enough, huge plates laden with ESPRESSO MACAROONS (I had to have two), WHITE CHOCOLATE LOLLIPOPS (with nuts and caramel; yes, I had to have two!), COGNAC TRUFFLES and a COCOA-NIB salty yummy crunchy concoction that I forgot to get a name for. I wanted to pack them up as there were so many left, but I knew I would gobble them all up myself!
WOW! What a WINE DINNER!
As we arrived Linden ROSE, Bordeaux Blend 2011 was being poured. While it was a bitter cold night, and this wine is truly a summer wine, we could appreciate the Cab, Merlot, Cab Franc blend that is bone dry and pairs so well with so many things, such as the multiple passed hor's d'oevres:
Salmon Mousse
Foie Gras
Deviled Quail Egg
Pulled Head Cheese
Now these are vague descriptions as they were not printed on our menus tableside, so I must try and recall from memory. All were amazing and it was hard to resist having seconds or thirds (I had to have two of the eggs!). Credit goes to the chef, though, as these were indeed tiny smaller than bite-size portions and not the type of treats one could overdose on in the 20-30 minutes or so before we sat down (well, I guess you could if you really pigged out!).
What was so special about last night, other than the superb company, food and wine, was the fact that the ingredients on the divine Tasting menu, and the wines as well, were all locally sourced from farms and markets in our region.
Amuses arrived with a tiny miniature cast iron pot topped with a Rutabaga Chip with Chevre Panna Cotta and Fuji Apples. Next came a small spoon of Grapefruit Sorbet with Fennel Pollen, which I skipped in that my statin intake would be marred by the grapefruit.
The first course was SASHIMI of Winter FLOUNDER with Butternut Squash Coulis, Crispy Lentils and Avenius Vinaigrette paired with Linden "Avenius Vineyard" 2011 Sauvignon Blanc. Mr. Law explained that this vintage when bottled had huge acidity and that while he "likes his SB to be a nervous wine" that it did temper with time.The intensity of the wine was amazing with the light fish as there was definitely a strong spice ( we never did find out) in the coulis (paprika, chili, cumin, or something that worked) that was an amazing pairing. The small rolls of sashimi were truly of the best quality and had such amazing flavor; I was tempted to ask for more.
Next came Pan Roasted MAINE DIVER SCALLOP with Wild Mushrooms, Sunchoke Cream, Smoked Buttermilk & Young Chives. Here the wine was the luscious LINDEN "Hardscrabble Vineyard" 2009 Chardonnay that we discovered is now sold out at the vineyard. Lucky for us, there was an opportunity to buy some locally at the end of the meal! Old oak features in this wine which is truly a landmark varietal for Linden and indeed all of Virginia.
Beaver Creek Farm's QUAIL with Creamed Parsnips, Dried Cherry Relish and Foie-Gras Quail Emulsion was divine. I loved the fact that there were many whole cherries in the tasty relish which was less relish or compote as it was not sweet or tart (other than the cherries' natural tartness). Our last Linden wine was the "Hardscrabble" 2008 Bordeaux Blend made from Cab, Merlot, Cab Franc & Petit Verdot and featured wide arced legs in the glass with huge flavor in the mouth. These are the kinds of wines that could win "the Judgement of Paris."
We were then introduced to winemaker Rutger deVink whose first vintage of R.d.V. came in 2008. That year he made the wines at Linden, but now has his own winery in Delaplane. These wines have hit the market fiercely indeed and his two reds (he only makes two wines) go for $86 and $79 respectively (the most expensive wine sold in Virginia)!
First we had the higher priced RdV "Lost Mountain Vineyard" 2009 Bordeaux Blend which is mostly Cabernet Sauvignon. It's a huge wine and needs cellaring for sure, but I could not get a "good to drink" year from Mr. deVink as he said the wine needs to be tasted each year and then we can figure out, as it is so new. Well, I guess I will do that with my three bottles! The wine was brilliantly paired with LOIN of Chapel Hill Farm's (in Berryville, VA) Randall Lineback with Crisp SWEETBREAD, Salsify Puree & Black Pepper Braised Shallots.
The "cheese" course, which is always a novelty and pleasure at EVE was truly conceived by love: Oregon CAVEMAN BLUE with Caramelized ONION TART, Smoked Maple BACON and Red-Eye Gravy. This was way more than a cheese course; it was an experience. It was served with the R.d.V. 2009 Rendezvous Red Bordeaux Blend (but mostly Merlot) which blew everyone away, especially with the pairing.
Roasted QUINCE with SAFFRON RICOTTA and CAJETA Ice Cream was last and served with one of my all-time favorites (we had just opened a bottle last week at home) of Linden "Late Harvest" VIDAL BLANC 2006 that is again one of Virginia's best dessert wines.
As if this was not enough, huge plates laden with ESPRESSO MACAROONS (I had to have two), WHITE CHOCOLATE LOLLIPOPS (with nuts and caramel; yes, I had to have two!), COGNAC TRUFFLES and a COCOA-NIB salty yummy crunchy concoction that I forgot to get a name for. I wanted to pack them up as there were so many left, but I knew I would gobble them all up myself!
WOW! What a WINE DINNER!
Sunday, January 13, 2013
we found fine food, fine dining and friends at THE FEDERALIST (1-12-13)
We rarely go out on Saturday night, but it was such a quiet weekend, we chose THE FEDERALIST in the Madison Hotel downtown (www.thefederalistdc.com) where Chef Harper McClure has found a home fixing some of the freshest farm ingredients around. When we arrived the place was near empty and while several other tables arrived, it never was crowded for a DC Saturday night. The quiet was welcome and the atmosphere was divine.
There are several separated rooms, most with wood floors, raised big cozy booths, light wood walls with glass partitions and a classy, yet casual feel. You can come here in a suit or jeans and feel good. We did.
Our server Josh was a gem and welcomed us with Hildon Sparkling Water from the UK, which we always like and then we tried the Darcie Kent GRUNER VELTLINER "Rava's Black Jack Vineyards" from Monterey 2009 which was a wonderful GruVe made in the USA for a change. I think it is the first I have ever had from California for sure, while we have enjoyed those from Washington & New York.
COD FRITTERS with Soffrito arrived steaming hot and with a hint of pepper as well as coarse salt in the batter. These were not the overly rich creamy type, but closer to a top-notch fish cake. We tried desperately to tell Sam they were like elite fish fingers, but he would have none! More for us. The tomato-based sauce was a perfect foil and dip.
As it is a hotel, there is a children's menu, so we allowed Samuel to have the CHICKEN TENDERS and French Fries, which I have to say looked perfect; he did not let us try his this time around.
The House CHARCUTERIE Board appeared with Artisanal Accoutrements (and these were much more than accoutrements) that was one of the best we have had. The LOMO first sweet, then salty, and literally melted in your mouth. DUCK HAM is always a hit with me as I like anything that quacks. LARDO requires a but more of a palate, especially when one is trying not to eat pure fat, but the flavor was superb. PORK RILETTES were perfect and I smothered the tasty spread on the baguette provided (there was also home made corn bread). Three pate's included CAMPAGNE, CHICKEN LIVER and a rich creamy divine GOOSE & DUCK; all were excellent. The accoutrements were announced as Quince (I later actually thought this was a pickled beet and ate it whole; so did Will!) Paste, Mustard, Onion Jam and Apple Butter. These were all fun to mix with the various meats and try for different flavor combos. There were also many different superb pickled veggies:mushrooms, carrots, red and Cuban peppers(mild), onion and my favorite-celery.
A surprise dish of Grilled JUDITH POINT CALAMARI, seared POTATO GNOCCHI, Roasted GARLIC Puree, Pearl Onions and Scallions arrived and I must say this is an ideal preparation of this version of the Rhode Island squid.
It was, thankfully, without batter, and perfectly grilled, especially those yummy tentacles and the garlic puree was enticing.
We moved to our red which was recommended by Chef Harper himself. Dozens of years ago, perhaps decades, we used to drink BONNY DOON by the glass, or more regularly, half bottle, as it was one of the few reds available by half bottle. LE CIGARE VOLANT 2007 is an amazing year for this age old wine that now has smokiness and full red body worthy of pairing with so many meats.
Roasted MOULARDE DUCK Leg was indeed a great partner for the wine with its intensely rich TRUFFLE HONEY GLAZED Baby TURNIPS, Potato Puree and Natural Jus. It was crunchy on the outside and confit-like inside to boot. The Cocoa-Rubbed VENSION LEG was even better with its rich CHESNUT-BARLEY RISOTTO, Glazed Beets and Red Wine Jus. The meat was cooked just perfectly to before medium rare and we gobbled every bite, especially that crunchy end piece with extra cocoa!
Dessert was an ever harder decision, save for Samuel who went right for and devoured the VALRHONA CHOCOLATE COULANT that was the essence of the bitter chocolate. He loved it, while I always prefer lighter or milk! This was a chocolate lover's dream. It comes with a PORTER (Beer)-Buttermilk Ice Cream Float which Will declared as perfect; sorry, I don't care for beer. We debated which dessert to choose and went with chef's suggestion of the SYLLABUB with Caramelized Banana and Gingerbread Crumble. It is a very old style traditional dessert and a bit too heavy on the whipped cream for me. Next time we try the Tangerine Bavarian with Slow Baked Meringue, Creme Fraiche and Candid Zest which our sever Josh recommended.
Which ever way you go, The FEDERALIST has many options and choices and is indeed a pleasant place to be on most any night.
There are several separated rooms, most with wood floors, raised big cozy booths, light wood walls with glass partitions and a classy, yet casual feel. You can come here in a suit or jeans and feel good. We did.
Our server Josh was a gem and welcomed us with Hildon Sparkling Water from the UK, which we always like and then we tried the Darcie Kent GRUNER VELTLINER "Rava's Black Jack Vineyards" from Monterey 2009 which was a wonderful GruVe made in the USA for a change. I think it is the first I have ever had from California for sure, while we have enjoyed those from Washington & New York.
COD FRITTERS with Soffrito arrived steaming hot and with a hint of pepper as well as coarse salt in the batter. These were not the overly rich creamy type, but closer to a top-notch fish cake. We tried desperately to tell Sam they were like elite fish fingers, but he would have none! More for us. The tomato-based sauce was a perfect foil and dip.
As it is a hotel, there is a children's menu, so we allowed Samuel to have the CHICKEN TENDERS and French Fries, which I have to say looked perfect; he did not let us try his this time around.
The House CHARCUTERIE Board appeared with Artisanal Accoutrements (and these were much more than accoutrements) that was one of the best we have had. The LOMO first sweet, then salty, and literally melted in your mouth. DUCK HAM is always a hit with me as I like anything that quacks. LARDO requires a but more of a palate, especially when one is trying not to eat pure fat, but the flavor was superb. PORK RILETTES were perfect and I smothered the tasty spread on the baguette provided (there was also home made corn bread). Three pate's included CAMPAGNE, CHICKEN LIVER and a rich creamy divine GOOSE & DUCK; all were excellent. The accoutrements were announced as Quince (I later actually thought this was a pickled beet and ate it whole; so did Will!) Paste, Mustard, Onion Jam and Apple Butter. These were all fun to mix with the various meats and try for different flavor combos. There were also many different superb pickled veggies:mushrooms, carrots, red and Cuban peppers(mild), onion and my favorite-celery.
A surprise dish of Grilled JUDITH POINT CALAMARI, seared POTATO GNOCCHI, Roasted GARLIC Puree, Pearl Onions and Scallions arrived and I must say this is an ideal preparation of this version of the Rhode Island squid.
It was, thankfully, without batter, and perfectly grilled, especially those yummy tentacles and the garlic puree was enticing.
We moved to our red which was recommended by Chef Harper himself. Dozens of years ago, perhaps decades, we used to drink BONNY DOON by the glass, or more regularly, half bottle, as it was one of the few reds available by half bottle. LE CIGARE VOLANT 2007 is an amazing year for this age old wine that now has smokiness and full red body worthy of pairing with so many meats.
Roasted MOULARDE DUCK Leg was indeed a great partner for the wine with its intensely rich TRUFFLE HONEY GLAZED Baby TURNIPS, Potato Puree and Natural Jus. It was crunchy on the outside and confit-like inside to boot. The Cocoa-Rubbed VENSION LEG was even better with its rich CHESNUT-BARLEY RISOTTO, Glazed Beets and Red Wine Jus. The meat was cooked just perfectly to before medium rare and we gobbled every bite, especially that crunchy end piece with extra cocoa!
Dessert was an ever harder decision, save for Samuel who went right for and devoured the VALRHONA CHOCOLATE COULANT that was the essence of the bitter chocolate. He loved it, while I always prefer lighter or milk! This was a chocolate lover's dream. It comes with a PORTER (Beer)-Buttermilk Ice Cream Float which Will declared as perfect; sorry, I don't care for beer. We debated which dessert to choose and went with chef's suggestion of the SYLLABUB with Caramelized Banana and Gingerbread Crumble. It is a very old style traditional dessert and a bit too heavy on the whipped cream for me. Next time we try the Tangerine Bavarian with Slow Baked Meringue, Creme Fraiche and Candid Zest which our sever Josh recommended.
Which ever way you go, The FEDERALIST has many options and choices and is indeed a pleasant place to be on most any night.
Saturday, January 12, 2013
NYC's KIN SHOP is soooo cool with tantalizing Thai cuisine too (1-6-13)
My recent trip to NYC ended with a visit to Kin Shop (www.kinshopnyc.com) at 469 6th Ave (11th St) in an unassuming spot where Chef Harold Dieterle of Top Chef fame offers up amazing dishes at amazingly low prices (for a Top Chef winner, especially from Season One!). When I arrived early, manager Craig said it was no problem (any other stuffy place that a hot/top chef owns in NYC would have said there was no room) and asked where I wanted to sit. I bypassed the tables and headed for the "Chef's Counter" which is 4 seats facing the kitchen, which is a bit larger than a postage stamp and had four people working in it. I can tell you it was smaller than the bathroom in our suite on our recent cruise!
Craig got me some bottled water and I settled in for hours of fun (I was the last to leave at almost 1130pm after arriving at 730pm). He suggested the TYPHOON (he said that if I didn't like it, he would drink it!) from the drink menu which was a refreshing Mekhong Thai Rum with Catamansi (tangerine-lime juice), Aperol, Thai Basil and Fever Tree Ginger Beer. It was just like being in the islands I had recently left, but here it was the islands of the Andaman Sea!
It was hard to decide what to eat and my helpful and friendly server Jessica offered up many ideas. I spent most of the evening speaking with Bryce, the line chef opposite me who was born in Maryland, but grew up in Maine. He was a real sweetheart and explained everything at length when I was lost. He explained that "kin" in that means "to eat."
At Jessica's suggestion I had the Schellman "Ossi" 2010 Gruner Veltliner that was crisp and refreshing and ideal with the spicy dishes.
My first plate was the FRIED PORK & CRISPY OYSTER SALAD that was a dream come true. Made with many ingredients including celery, peanuts, some mint, a pungent chili-lime vinagrette, sprouts, celery greens and pickled red onions this was a salad, but the two main ingredients were arranged like several royal thrones in a row. Each square of crispy pork was topped with a plump fried (Washington State) oyster on top. It was large and filling, but Bryce said the Duck Salad (my other choice amongst many) was even larger!
Next came a single (you could order them by the piece) GRILLED PRAWN with Fresh Lime & "Phuket Style" Black Pepper Sauce. I could have dipped the tasty roti coming off the stove into this sauce forever, but did not order the roti so as to allow more room for less carbs and more tastes. The hrimp was large and juicy and I wanted more....but, the FRIED BRUSSELS SPORUTS & CHINESE SAUSAGE arrived. This "vegetable" side had crispy slices of sausage, young coconut, gooseberry chutney and fermented apple vinegar. It was superb, tasty and flavorful, if only a slight bit too sweet.
My main course was called RED and was roasted DUCK breast with that crispy roti I mentioned earlier (I had to have it somehow), Green Mango, Fresh Herbs & Tamarind Water. The roti are affectionately termed "Thai-tillas" by Drew, one of the other chefs. This bread should be packaged! The duck was just past rare and cooked perfectly and the dish was a sensation in taste and flavor. Jessica said the Fritsch ZEIGELT "Red Soil" 2009 from Wagram in Austria would work with the duck, although many fokls don't know the varietal. I insisted I adore Zweigelt and it was a perfect pairing.
I was full and Bryce and Craig both insisted I have dessert, so I chose the CALAMANSI Sorbet, the same juice of tangerine and lime from my opening Typhoon. It was the perfect refreshing end to an amazing dinner with the wonderful team at Kin Shop which made me want to try all of Chef Dieterle's dining spots in NYC, not to mention a return visit to Kin Shop.
I did not want to leave, but I knew I had an early flight home to DC.....after a lot of eating that weekend.
Craig got me some bottled water and I settled in for hours of fun (I was the last to leave at almost 1130pm after arriving at 730pm). He suggested the TYPHOON (he said that if I didn't like it, he would drink it!) from the drink menu which was a refreshing Mekhong Thai Rum with Catamansi (tangerine-lime juice), Aperol, Thai Basil and Fever Tree Ginger Beer. It was just like being in the islands I had recently left, but here it was the islands of the Andaman Sea!
It was hard to decide what to eat and my helpful and friendly server Jessica offered up many ideas. I spent most of the evening speaking with Bryce, the line chef opposite me who was born in Maryland, but grew up in Maine. He was a real sweetheart and explained everything at length when I was lost. He explained that "kin" in that means "to eat."
At Jessica's suggestion I had the Schellman "Ossi" 2010 Gruner Veltliner that was crisp and refreshing and ideal with the spicy dishes.
My first plate was the FRIED PORK & CRISPY OYSTER SALAD that was a dream come true. Made with many ingredients including celery, peanuts, some mint, a pungent chili-lime vinagrette, sprouts, celery greens and pickled red onions this was a salad, but the two main ingredients were arranged like several royal thrones in a row. Each square of crispy pork was topped with a plump fried (Washington State) oyster on top. It was large and filling, but Bryce said the Duck Salad (my other choice amongst many) was even larger!
Next came a single (you could order them by the piece) GRILLED PRAWN with Fresh Lime & "Phuket Style" Black Pepper Sauce. I could have dipped the tasty roti coming off the stove into this sauce forever, but did not order the roti so as to allow more room for less carbs and more tastes. The hrimp was large and juicy and I wanted more....but, the FRIED BRUSSELS SPORUTS & CHINESE SAUSAGE arrived. This "vegetable" side had crispy slices of sausage, young coconut, gooseberry chutney and fermented apple vinegar. It was superb, tasty and flavorful, if only a slight bit too sweet.
My main course was called RED and was roasted DUCK breast with that crispy roti I mentioned earlier (I had to have it somehow), Green Mango, Fresh Herbs & Tamarind Water. The roti are affectionately termed "Thai-tillas" by Drew, one of the other chefs. This bread should be packaged! The duck was just past rare and cooked perfectly and the dish was a sensation in taste and flavor. Jessica said the Fritsch ZEIGELT "Red Soil" 2009 from Wagram in Austria would work with the duck, although many fokls don't know the varietal. I insisted I adore Zweigelt and it was a perfect pairing.
I was full and Bryce and Craig both insisted I have dessert, so I chose the CALAMANSI Sorbet, the same juice of tangerine and lime from my opening Typhoon. It was the perfect refreshing end to an amazing dinner with the wonderful team at Kin Shop which made me want to try all of Chef Dieterle's dining spots in NYC, not to mention a return visit to Kin Shop.
I did not want to leave, but I knew I had an early flight home to DC.....after a lot of eating that weekend.
Empellon Taqueria is rela value in the Village for a best brunch (NYC-1-6-13)
Last Sunday morning I wandered across a listing for a taco-style brunch at EMPELLON TACQUERIA just blocks from my hotel in West Greenwich Village (230 West 4th St-www.empellon.com) and hit the jackpot.
Except for some loud music the place seemed deserted when I arrived at 11:45am (which is when they open).
The music never really got too subtle, but it wasn't blasting. The room has a long bar on one side, exposed brick on the other and is simple with some high tables in the middle. It was a chilly morning, and I warmed up with some cappuccino to start.
I was thrilled to see a variety of salsas including our recently discovered Sikil Pak (pumpkin seed Mayan) and was tempted to try the 7 salsas with chips as they are only $3 each or a steal for the bunch.
Instead I ordered up a JAPANESE MAGURO CEVICHE starter of white tuna, potato in a sea urchin-chipotle salsa that had a beautiful bite. The sauce was slightly creamy like a light slaw with thin radish slices on top.
My main course was LAMB BARBACOA Tacos-two soft tortillas layered with tender barbecued lamb, Salsa Borracha (pasilla Oaxaquena-cheese, orange juice, mezcal, onion, lots of cilantro and olives) as well as cucumbers. Here the kitchen knows how to treat heat with respect. The seasonings were hot, but subsided fast and were totally flavorful and enjoyable.
I was surprised when my server, Sam (for Samantha), brought over a complimentary dessert that wowed me over the top. I was stuffed, but had to eat the PASSION FRUIT TART made with creamy custard, fresh oranges and yummy whipped meringue dots that were mezcal infused and then quickly flamed brown. A splash of mezcal was on top to boot. YUM YUM!
I'll be back for more and if not here, to their sister spot COCINA Empellon in the East Village.
What is most interesting is that the chef and his wife, who is the pastry chef, both hail from Massachusetts! Nothing Latin in their blood!
Except for some loud music the place seemed deserted when I arrived at 11:45am (which is when they open).
The music never really got too subtle, but it wasn't blasting. The room has a long bar on one side, exposed brick on the other and is simple with some high tables in the middle. It was a chilly morning, and I warmed up with some cappuccino to start.
I was thrilled to see a variety of salsas including our recently discovered Sikil Pak (pumpkin seed Mayan) and was tempted to try the 7 salsas with chips as they are only $3 each or a steal for the bunch.
Instead I ordered up a JAPANESE MAGURO CEVICHE starter of white tuna, potato in a sea urchin-chipotle salsa that had a beautiful bite. The sauce was slightly creamy like a light slaw with thin radish slices on top.
My main course was LAMB BARBACOA Tacos-two soft tortillas layered with tender barbecued lamb, Salsa Borracha (pasilla Oaxaquena-cheese, orange juice, mezcal, onion, lots of cilantro and olives) as well as cucumbers. Here the kitchen knows how to treat heat with respect. The seasonings were hot, but subsided fast and were totally flavorful and enjoyable.
I was surprised when my server, Sam (for Samantha), brought over a complimentary dessert that wowed me over the top. I was stuffed, but had to eat the PASSION FRUIT TART made with creamy custard, fresh oranges and yummy whipped meringue dots that were mezcal infused and then quickly flamed brown. A splash of mezcal was on top to boot. YUM YUM!
I'll be back for more and if not here, to their sister spot COCINA Empellon in the East Village.
What is most interesting is that the chef and his wife, who is the pastry chef, both hail from Massachusetts! Nothing Latin in their blood!
Sunday, January 06, 2013
NYC's DANIEL does it deliciously with grand flair (1-5-13)
The new year started off very well dining-wise last night with my first
visit to Restaurant DANIEL in NYC (www.danielnyc.com) the gastronomic templedom
of Chef Daniel Boulud. I had been to Daniel before in its first NY location
uptown and had a pretty bad experience, this return was indeed totally
satisfying. The grander, larger location at Park & 65th is truly elegant and
oozes warmth along with the elegant flair of the sophisticated staff.
I happened to be dining with a business associate of Chef Daniel and I even
mentioned to her as we sat down how surprised I was that the boss himself was on
hand and hovering over several tables. Within minutes, he was at our table
discussing business, news and the dining options we had. WOW!
Those of you in DC will remember that Chef Daniel started in the USA in DC back in 1980, but soon departed for NYC. Well, a little known secret is that he is on the verge of signing a deal to return to DC in 2014 to open a bistro!
Those of you in DC will remember that Chef Daniel started in the USA in DC back in 1980, but soon departed for NYC. Well, a little known secret is that he is on the verge of signing a deal to return to DC in 2014 to open a bistro!
I loved the house sparkling water which had a bit more fizz than most
homemade versions. Complimentary champagne appeared as well.
Our first amuse was BEETS 3 WAYS, one with sable fish, one with salmon and
mustard cream, and one was a small bowl of puree that actually looked like
ketchup!
The next amuse was two small portions one of GEODUCK with Pineapple and Green Apple that was simply divine, the second was a succulent OYSTER with Lime Veloute.
The breads arrived and I wanted them all but tried only the Black Olive and later the Sweet Garlic Focaccia. The Multigrain Three Seed and Sourdough were my guest's choices. We gobbled them up and I loved the amazing butter with coarse sea salt on top.
The next amuse was two small portions one of GEODUCK with Pineapple and Green Apple that was simply divine, the second was a succulent OYSTER with Lime Veloute.
The breads arrived and I wanted them all but tried only the Black Olive and later the Sweet Garlic Focaccia. The Multigrain Three Seed and Sourdough were my guest's choices. We gobbled them up and I loved the amazing butter with coarse sea salt on top.
For our main dinner tasting, all the courses were different for the both of
us and I did not taste all of the other dishes....but I will list them
anyway:
MOSAIC of SQUAB Breast with Pickled Shitake was a wonderfully gamey pate
made with Foie Gras, Confit Grapes, Muscat Gelee, Purple Watercress, Pistachio
Oil & Young Vegetables. It was indeed a superb blending of tastes and while
the grapes had sweetness, it was an ideal foil.
Capon-Foie Gras & Black Truffle Mosaic with Artichoke Barigoule, Celery-Mustard Coulis & Toasted Hazelnut was across the table, and I did have a bite of this dish as well. The capon (poularde) was less intense, so I really liked mine more, even though this was great. The wine was a semi-dry Freiherr Von Heddesdorff RIESLING "Winninger Uhlen Kabinett" 2008 from Mosel, Germany that paired brilliantly, especially with my gamier mosaic pate.
Capon-Foie Gras & Black Truffle Mosaic with Artichoke Barigoule, Celery-Mustard Coulis & Toasted Hazelnut was across the table, and I did have a bite of this dish as well. The capon (poularde) was less intense, so I really liked mine more, even though this was great. The wine was a semi-dry Freiherr Von Heddesdorff RIESLING "Winninger Uhlen Kabinett" 2008 from Mosel, Germany that paired brilliantly, especially with my gamier mosaic pate.
ORANGE-YUZU Marinated SEA SCALLOP with Kushi Oyster, Pickled Buddha's Hand
Lemon(the server said it was Kaffir Lime), Shiso Oil, Sea Lettuce and Chayote
had razor thin ceviche of tasty succulent scallops served inside a small bowl
with a huge rim that had dozens and dozens of adorable holes in the plate
rim.
Next to me was Trio of COHO SALMON: Poached with Finger Lime & Mint
Tartare with Meyer Lemon and Sansho Pepper Tuile
Hot Smoked with Celery Remoulade
The wine was a bone dry Salomon Undhof GRUNER VELTLINER "Hochterassen" 2011 from Kremstal Austria.
Next to me was Trio of COHO SALMON: Poached with Finger Lime & Mint
Tartare with Meyer Lemon and Sansho Pepper Tuile
Hot Smoked with Celery Remoulade
The wine was a bone dry Salomon Undhof GRUNER VELTLINER "Hochterassen" 2011 from Kremstal Austria.
As I am not a fan of fennel I was happy not to get the FENNEL RAVIOLI with
Scottish LANGOUSTINES, Sauteed Cuttlefish, Sicilian Green Olive, Artichoke &
Saffron Cream. Instead, before me was a magnificent presentation of Slow Baked
JADE TIGER ABALONE with Cauliflower, Red Cedar Juniper Berries, Northern Lights
Caviar in Vodka Beurre Blanc. The dish looked like it was an avocado, but that
was actually the huge abalone shell filled with its meat and the divinely rich
vodka sauce with caviar that I almost liked the shell clean! On the side was an
adorable crispy thyme ravioli. Domaine Drouhin CHABLIS 1er Cru 2009 was the
perfect Burgundy Chardonnay with wonderful mild apple and melon overtones.
Next was my Slow Baked European WILD TURBOT with Hawaiian Hearts of Palm,
King Crab Legs, Wild Black Rice, Saute Americaine which was a superb fish bisque
sauce. The fish was firm, tasty and the flavors were intense and brilliant. I
did not taste the Cedar Wood Wrapped KAMPACHI with Braised Celery, Caramelized
Salsify, Cipollni Onion, Mustard-Seed Bourbon Sauce, but it sure sounded great
for a tuna hamachi dish. The wine was a Domaine Lapierre Morgon, Burgundy 2011;
the perfect light red for these big fish dishes. My only complaint of the entire
night was that the two red wines were served slightly chilled and on a cold
night, I prefer them ever so slightly warmer.
Roasted Liberty Farm DUCK BREAST was sliced razor thin and came with
Hazelnut-Spinach Subric, Confit Turnip, Poached Quince, Garganelli Pasta, Winter
Black Truffle and Sauce Civet. I did taste the duck and it was simply perfect as
was the black truffle sauce. My Duo of QUEBEC SUCKLING PIG was just as good with
a Roasted Chop with Smoked Paprika and Daikon Radish Sauerkraut (very Alsatian)
and a yummy and meaty Crispy Pork Belly with Pee-Wee Potatoes, Honeycrisp Apple
Confit and Ommegang Beer Jus. Not being a beer fan, I was wary when the dish
arrived, but the sauce was amazing and the entire combination reminded me of a
feast in Strasbourg years ago. The Proprieta Sperino "UVAGGIO" 2008 from Coste
Della Sesia, Piedmont was our biggest red and satisfying it was, cleansing the
palate after each bite and different flavor.
VACHERIN MONT d"OR was the cheese course presented as a surprise gift from
the chef, and I can't recall a more satisfying, yet so simple dish. The creamy
rich triple cream cheese was presented warm tableside and scooped onto our
plates and then smothered (and I mean that) with shavings of Fresh WHITE
TRUFFLES from Alba. White truffle baguettes were provided as the bread to shmear
the divine dish on. OMIGOD!! Lopez de Heredia "VINA TONDONIA" 1996 Rioja Reserva
white was the most fascinating of wines that had the biggest legs of a white
wine I have ever seen. It was nutty and earthy and intense and indeed, could not
be tasted on its own. With the cheese, the earthiness melded into an amazing
partner.
DUO of FRUITS & CHOCOLATE Desserts came next with a Huckleberry
Vacherin, Milk Chocolate Dacquoise, Hazelnut Biscuit & Chocolate-Lime
Sorbet. The tastes were small, and we gobbled them all up instantly. Chateau
Pajzos 5 Puttonyos Aszu Tokai 2003 was rich, intense, viscous and superb with
the treats and then a port-like Domaine de Rancy Rivesaltes Ambre, 1996 from
Roussillon followed, and while excellent, I preferred the former.
Mignardises came and my guest allowed me to gobble up the ones I
liked...the macaroon was bliss. Following this was a plate of four different
housemade flavored dark chocolates: Raspberry, Praline with Rum, Passionfruit
& Caramel--each no more than 1/8th inch square, but bursting with
flavor.
What a night!
The TERRACE at COBBLER's COVE in BARBADOS gets huge bravos (12-29-12)
Our third lunch was another grand treat as we dined at the Relais et
Chateaux gem of Barbados, Cobbler's Cove. Chef Michael Harrison is a local and
recently took over the kitchen, making him one of the few island chefs of at his
level in any top Caribbean restaurant. I marveled at the dinner menu and wished
we could jump ship to stay here and eat for several days, but alas, we had to
return to the mediocre "cruisine" of Royal Caribbean.
Before lunch we enjoyed wonderful Strawberry Daiquiris (virgin and
non-virgin) and Planter's Punch poolside. The staff here again gets credits for
such wonderful service with a smile.
An amuse arrived of Coconut Crusted Fried Shrimp with Guava Sauce, Avocado,
Micro Greens and Seaweed. Local ingredients with masterful tastes, and the guava
was amazingly not too sweet.
Samuel ordered a magnificent Char-Grilled Angus Burger with Aged Cheddar
and Fries; he raved. The lemonade was only declared a bit too sweet.
Will had the Mozzarella & Tomato Salad with BLACKENED SHRIMP that was
another perfect lunch dish in the heat. While I quaffed a tasty glass of 2011
Baily Cotes de Provence Rose, I could not resist the BLACKENED BARRACUDA Special
that was a perfect size of perfectly cooked and seasoned fish with an Avocado
Salsa and a Cobbler's Organic Salad on the side that had piles of amazing fresh
greens.
This was our third Relais et Chateaux stop on our vacation and boy do we
always welcome these very special meals, especially when the "cruisine" is, as I
said, below par.
Next Relais et Chateaux stop is DANIEL in New York City right after the New
Year.
Friday, January 04, 2013
lunching in St. Lucia at the LANDINGS BEACH GRILL (12/28/12)
Our second island visit this cruise found us in St. Lucia where we had
a lovely lunch at the LANDINGS Resort at the Beach Grill overlooking
Rodney Bay with a smiling staff, many kudos going to our lovely
server, Tamar.
Samuel decided to return to the kid's menu and ordered a HOT DOG and
Fries, but this dog came right from a grill on the beach nearby served
in what was clearly a homemade bun. Mango Juice was the drink for him.
I imbibed on a fabulous Planter's Punch and both Will and I marveled
at the tasty rare CALYPSO BLACKENED TUNA SALAD which had Salsa
Vinaigrette, lettuce, tomato, cucumber, peppers, pineapple and the
oddest large breadstick like plantain "crouton."
It was a perfect lunch for a hot day and the prices were quite low (in
the low teens for almost every salad, burger, or other main course--
kid's menu was half that!), so high marks for quality as well as
price.
a lovely lunch at the LANDINGS Resort at the Beach Grill overlooking
Rodney Bay with a smiling staff, many kudos going to our lovely
server, Tamar.
Samuel decided to return to the kid's menu and ordered a HOT DOG and
Fries, but this dog came right from a grill on the beach nearby served
in what was clearly a homemade bun. Mango Juice was the drink for him.
I imbibed on a fabulous Planter's Punch and both Will and I marveled
at the tasty rare CALYPSO BLACKENED TUNA SALAD which had Salsa
Vinaigrette, lettuce, tomato, cucumber, peppers, pineapple and the
oddest large breadstick like plantain "crouton."
It was a perfect lunch for a hot day and the prices were quite low (in
the low teens for almost every salad, burger, or other main course--
kid's menu was half that!), so high marks for quality as well as
price.
Caribbean cooking and lunch with the lovely Janice Ryan at St. Kitt's NIRVANA (12-26-12)
Our first port on this year's winter cruise was St. Kitt's and I chose
to sign up for a cooking class shore excursion. It was brilliant and I
can't wait to try out the recipes back home.
The class was held at Fairview Manor Museum which houses the NIRVANA
Restaurant. The chef in residence is a 20-something year resident on
the island from Britain by the name of Janice Ryan. She has done her
share of big time "chef"ing most famously at the now Relais et
Chateaux Montpelier Plantation on neighboring Nevis.
Our class and ensuing lunch consisted of GROUPER in CREOLE Tomato
Broth which basically cooks the sauce in the pan then steams the fish
on top while the flame is off. It was divine. Since green bananas were
out of stock due to the holiday, our ESCOVITCH (or escabeche) was made
from PUMPKIN which works perfectly. Limes too were scarce, so the
local sour orange (a Seville orange type that is indeed very sour).
Our Lemonade with lunch was also made from the delicious sour orange.
JERK PORK Loin was perfectly cooked and crusted with a mild jerk
seasoning and there was homemade hot sauce made from Scotch Bonnet
peppers if you wanted more bit. On the side was the traditional dish
of ISLAND RICE with PIDGEON PEAS.
We had started with some homemade BREADFRUIT chips (or crisps if you
are from the UK) with homemade BANANA KETCHUP for taste. I managed to
find a locally made Banana Ketchup on St. Lucia the next day and hope
it is as tasty!
Our meal ended with the most divine and lightest of COCONUT BREAD
PUDDINGS I have ever had with a Rum and Brown Sugar Glaze; this dish I
really look forward to re-creating as I am not a great fan or maker of
desserts and this was a winner.
They were all winners. What fun the 7 of us from the ship had; I only
wish Chef Janice could be here on board to improve the mediocre
cuisine we are getting!
--
to sign up for a cooking class shore excursion. It was brilliant and I
can't wait to try out the recipes back home.
The class was held at Fairview Manor Museum which houses the NIRVANA
Restaurant. The chef in residence is a 20-something year resident on
the island from Britain by the name of Janice Ryan. She has done her
share of big time "chef"ing most famously at the now Relais et
Chateaux Montpelier Plantation on neighboring Nevis.
Our class and ensuing lunch consisted of GROUPER in CREOLE Tomato
Broth which basically cooks the sauce in the pan then steams the fish
on top while the flame is off. It was divine. Since green bananas were
out of stock due to the holiday, our ESCOVITCH (or escabeche) was made
from PUMPKIN which works perfectly. Limes too were scarce, so the
local sour orange (a Seville orange type that is indeed very sour).
Our Lemonade with lunch was also made from the delicious sour orange.
JERK PORK Loin was perfectly cooked and crusted with a mild jerk
seasoning and there was homemade hot sauce made from Scotch Bonnet
peppers if you wanted more bit. On the side was the traditional dish
of ISLAND RICE with PIDGEON PEAS.
We had started with some homemade BREADFRUIT chips (or crisps if you
are from the UK) with homemade BANANA KETCHUP for taste. I managed to
find a locally made Banana Ketchup on St. Lucia the next day and hope
it is as tasty!
Our meal ended with the most divine and lightest of COCONUT BREAD
PUDDINGS I have ever had with a Rum and Brown Sugar Glaze; this dish I
really look forward to re-creating as I am not a great fan or maker of
desserts and this was a winner.
They were all winners. What fun the 7 of us from the ship had; I only
wish Chef Janice could be here on board to improve the mediocre
cuisine we are getting!
--
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