Last night we returned to NEW HEIGHTS where I have been going for over 20 years and always enjoying myself thoroughly. Owner UMBI SINGH has recently sold his 2nd venue, Butterfield9, and moved "back home where he belongs"(someone should have sung him a variation of "Hello Dolly") to the beautiful 2nd story location on Calvert Street (www.newheightsrestaurant.com) with gorgeous decor by his sister (who owns SANSAR in Bethesda) and great views over RockCreek Park's greenery.
It was even more special last night as Karen Shannon, who used to own Petito's which was around the corner) returned to the neighborhood as well to present OPERA & BROADWAY nights. The menu was a $60 plus tax and tip fixed price with over 2 hours of fantastic music performed by elegant and versatile soprano DIANE ABEL and the young up and coming tenor JOSEPH HAUGHTON. I am so happy that these nights will be repeated again in JULY and we are hoping to attend on AUGUST 22nd! CALL New Heights at 202-234-4110 to reserve now! It's well worth it!
We ordered an extra course off the ala carte menu as we so desperately wanted to try Chef JOHN WABECK's superb SAUTEED SOFT SHELL CRABS with Cucumber, Fingerling Potato Salad, Cilantro and Vindaloo Oil. This is a pure presentation of the shellfish with no batter, just sauteed to perfection and served atop the wonderful smokey infused oil with hints of curry floating about.
The actual fixed menu started with a cool welcome tasty and tart GAZPACHO. We chose a bottle of ELIZABETH SPENCER 2005 PINOT NOIR from the SONOMA COAST that was new and quite satisfying with slight hints of acidity and lots of fruit. Of course, one always forgets that Gazpacho does not work too well with wine...so I tried to refrain for this course. Will's BLACK BEAN "RILLETTES" is served in a flip-top Mason jar with Guacamole and Chipotle Crema making it quite a rich mixture. It is an excellent variation on the Black Bean Pate that started at New Heights 21 years ago and has been going all this long on the menu. I loved the LAMB CARPACCIO with Yellow Tomatoes and Cilantro Mint "Chutney" which was actually a Jalapeno infused cream (the mint was barely tasted) that packed a punch.
The entrees were no less impressive with Will going for the GRILLED NY STRIP STEACH with Potato Puree and Mushroom-Horseradish Crust while I enjoyed the MAPLE LEAF FARMS DUCK BREAST with Baby Bok Choy, Preserved Shitakes and Duck Sauce. A bottle of STAGS LEAP 2004 PETITE SIRAH got us through the entrees and kept us going during the remainder of the excellent performance as well. The wine is a treat and a great rare bargain these days as so few US Petite Sirahs are around!
The FRESH BERRIES were perfect for me for dessert and the CREME BRULE was indeed one of the best around!
A wonderful performance in the kitchen, on our plates and by the able singers!
Friday, June 29, 2007
Tuesday, June 26, 2007
more raves for RASIKA and the perfect pre-theater dinner
Last night we returned to RASIKA (www.rasikarestaurant.com) in the Penn Quarter for a pre-theater dinner before seeing "Hamlet." We were concerned about filling up too much on a hot night before the 3+ hour show, but Rasika has the perfect pre-theater menu for $28.00 TOTAL not including tax and tip which is probably one of the best deals in town! and at the winner of this year's RAMMY (Restaurant Award) for Best NEW RESTAURANT!
There are 4 choices in the appetizer and entree category and 3 for dessert, so while this menu is a good deal, it might get boring after several visits, unless it is changed periodically. Will & I started with the MALAI CHICKEN TIKKA which comes with a green sauce of Coriander & Goat cheese along with the delicious moist grilled chicken pieces and the CALAMARI with CHILI & GARLIC, which packed a super punch, but not lingering, and was beautifully presented on a banana leaf and silver/bronze dish. We shared these two which were large enough portions to boot. While Will sipped the Indian beer, I enjoyed a crisp refreshing glass of HOFER 2005 GRUNER VELTLINER.
For the entree we both had the LAMB KESAIR KORMA which were moist tender and huge chunks (quite a large amount as well) of meat swimming in the wonderful yellow korma of coconut, saffron, cashew, mace and cardamom. A bed of rice made the most of the sauce which we mopped up with the wonderful NAAN and not as good ONION KULCHA (the onions were oddly raw). To boot, these breads are INCLUDED in the pre-theater, which are a la carte for the regular dinner! I tasted the moist TANDOORI SALMON (also on the fixed price) and the excellent TANDOORI GROUPER (a la carte) which were the same preparation using the same sauce from our chicken appetizer that was also great.
On top of this all you can have the most wonderful (and way too filling) dessert of CARROT PUDDING with Cinnamon Sabayon which is a huge disk of shredded cooked and sweetened carrots falling somewhere between a pudding and cake with golden raisins and cashews in a light sauce just for flavor. Our only complaint was that this really did fill us up and we all joked about how we would fall asleep so fast at the play! "To sleep or not to sleep? that is the question." For the most part, the play was good, and we managed to stay awake for the important parts, but knowing we would return to RASIKA again soon.
Incidentally our server was great and I also love the elongated flatware and impressive dishes!
There are 4 choices in the appetizer and entree category and 3 for dessert, so while this menu is a good deal, it might get boring after several visits, unless it is changed periodically. Will & I started with the MALAI CHICKEN TIKKA which comes with a green sauce of Coriander & Goat cheese along with the delicious moist grilled chicken pieces and the CALAMARI with CHILI & GARLIC, which packed a super punch, but not lingering, and was beautifully presented on a banana leaf and silver/bronze dish. We shared these two which were large enough portions to boot. While Will sipped the Indian beer, I enjoyed a crisp refreshing glass of HOFER 2005 GRUNER VELTLINER.
For the entree we both had the LAMB KESAIR KORMA which were moist tender and huge chunks (quite a large amount as well) of meat swimming in the wonderful yellow korma of coconut, saffron, cashew, mace and cardamom. A bed of rice made the most of the sauce which we mopped up with the wonderful NAAN and not as good ONION KULCHA (the onions were oddly raw). To boot, these breads are INCLUDED in the pre-theater, which are a la carte for the regular dinner! I tasted the moist TANDOORI SALMON (also on the fixed price) and the excellent TANDOORI GROUPER (a la carte) which were the same preparation using the same sauce from our chicken appetizer that was also great.
On top of this all you can have the most wonderful (and way too filling) dessert of CARROT PUDDING with Cinnamon Sabayon which is a huge disk of shredded cooked and sweetened carrots falling somewhere between a pudding and cake with golden raisins and cashews in a light sauce just for flavor. Our only complaint was that this really did fill us up and we all joked about how we would fall asleep so fast at the play! "To sleep or not to sleep? that is the question." For the most part, the play was good, and we managed to stay awake for the important parts, but knowing we would return to RASIKA again soon.
Incidentally our server was great and I also love the elongated flatware and impressive dishes!
Sunday, June 24, 2007
Kinkead's always comes through for us
We returned to Kinkeads (www.kinkead.com) here in DC for the first time in over a year and had forgotten how much we love the place. There are many new faces on the staff and in the kitchen, and we truly fell in love with our server Stephanie, who is a dream! That aside, we had, as always, a spectacular meal with only two small shortcomings. The new scallop entree should have FOUR scallops not three in our humble opinion, and the coffee cake in my dessert was really dry and forgettable.
The four of us sat down to a wonderful bottle of KARL LAGLER GRUNER VELTLINER Federspeil "Burgberg" 2005 that was slightly fizzy, creamy and very citrusy; an amazing aperitif on a hot Sunday afternoon. It also works quite well with the many different spices in the appetizers which were all a HUGE success. The YUCATAN Style TUNA SOUP with Tomatillos, Chilies, Lime, Sour Cream and Tortilla Strips now has two huge chunks of rare tuna in the middle of the soup making it even more filling than before (and was always a great dish!), the CHILLED GORGONZOLA SALAD with APRICOTS, Baby Arugula, Frisee, Spiced Walnuts, Pancetta & Port Vinaigrette got raves and our top notch CORNMEAL CRUSTED SOFT SHELL CRABS with Shrimp, Tasso Ham, Lemon, Garlic & Crab Ragout were some of the best ever. They also had a grilled artichoke heart, potato and string beans all with a slightly spicy sauce that was heavenly.
We had moved on to a terrific MONTAGNY 1er CRU "Les Coeres" 2004 from Staphane Aladame in the Cotes Chalonnaises that was a perfect chardonnay with little oak from the Burgundy region. It was also perfect in between courses before we moved on to our last red a super Burgundy Pinot Noir PERNAND-VERGELESSES 1er CRU "En Caradeux" 2003 from Follin-Arbellet which was wonderfully light (to work with the scallops and other dishes) and full-fruited, but not the least bit
wimpy.
Entrees were also all of the best quality with the SEARED NANTCUKET SEA SCALLOPS, Favas, Ricotta Gnocchi, Chanterelle Mushroom Ragout-dried tomato, pancetta, basil lemon broth only missing that one fourth scallop needed to fill out the plate.
The BRIK DOUGH WRAPPED ALASKAN HALIBUT Stuffed with Mushroom Duxelle, Creamed Spinach, Mushroom Agnolottis, Chanterelles, Baby Beans and Porcini Cream Sauce is a lesson in fish perfection while the GRILLED ROCKFISH, Zucchini Parmesan, Dried Cherry Tomato Relish with Lemon Rosemary Emulsion was a revelation of fish combined with the sour cherry tomatoes which tasted almost like a sour cherry relish! My HAWAIIAN RARE TUNA had two towers of the perfect meat with
MACADAMIA NUT CRUST a heap of TUNA "poke" (tartare), TARO PANCAKE, HEARTS of PALM and two options of dips: CHILI WATER (which was intense at first, but the heat was so fleeting, I kept dipping) and SOY GINGER.
I have to say I love the booths at Kinkead's, but our table last night was oddly opposite a two-top for a couple which was facing us. It's hard not to stare at lovey-dovey couples when you are right next to them, but they seemed into each other and their food!
A movement in the kitchen of pastry chefs may be the cause for the problem with the coffee cake on my COFFEE & CAKE (also called COFFEE Sampler on a different menu) which sported a way too dry SOUR CREAM & WLANUT Coffee Cake, a superb lighter-than-Sacher-torte MOCHA OPERA CAKE, a tasty demi-tasse of COFFEE JELLY & ESPRESSO CREAM and a scoop of BAILEY's IRISH Ice Cream. The CARROT PECAN ROULADE with Rum Raisin Ice Cream and Butterscotch Sauce is ALWAYS a hit and two of us opted for the yummy HAZELNUT CAKE with Crunchy Waffle Layer, Chocolate & Hazelnut Mousse, Coffee Sauce and Praline Ice Cream.
Hopefully the new scallop dish will grow soon and the coffee cake will get an extra douse of sour cream in the mixing, cause we know we are always headed back to Kinkead's!
The four of us sat down to a wonderful bottle of KARL LAGLER GRUNER VELTLINER Federspeil "Burgberg" 2005 that was slightly fizzy, creamy and very citrusy; an amazing aperitif on a hot Sunday afternoon. It also works quite well with the many different spices in the appetizers which were all a HUGE success. The YUCATAN Style TUNA SOUP with Tomatillos, Chilies, Lime, Sour Cream and Tortilla Strips now has two huge chunks of rare tuna in the middle of the soup making it even more filling than before (and was always a great dish!), the CHILLED GORGONZOLA SALAD with APRICOTS, Baby Arugula, Frisee, Spiced Walnuts, Pancetta & Port Vinaigrette got raves and our top notch CORNMEAL CRUSTED SOFT SHELL CRABS with Shrimp, Tasso Ham, Lemon, Garlic & Crab Ragout were some of the best ever. They also had a grilled artichoke heart, potato and string beans all with a slightly spicy sauce that was heavenly.
We had moved on to a terrific MONTAGNY 1er CRU "Les Coeres" 2004 from Staphane Aladame in the Cotes Chalonnaises that was a perfect chardonnay with little oak from the Burgundy region. It was also perfect in between courses before we moved on to our last red a super Burgundy Pinot Noir PERNAND-VERGELESSES 1er CRU "En Caradeux" 2003 from Follin-Arbellet which was wonderfully light (to work with the scallops and other dishes) and full-fruited, but not the least bit
wimpy.
Entrees were also all of the best quality with the SEARED NANTCUKET SEA SCALLOPS, Favas, Ricotta Gnocchi, Chanterelle Mushroom Ragout-dried tomato, pancetta, basil lemon broth only missing that one fourth scallop needed to fill out the plate.
The BRIK DOUGH WRAPPED ALASKAN HALIBUT Stuffed with Mushroom Duxelle, Creamed Spinach, Mushroom Agnolottis, Chanterelles, Baby Beans and Porcini Cream Sauce is a lesson in fish perfection while the GRILLED ROCKFISH, Zucchini Parmesan, Dried Cherry Tomato Relish with Lemon Rosemary Emulsion was a revelation of fish combined with the sour cherry tomatoes which tasted almost like a sour cherry relish! My HAWAIIAN RARE TUNA had two towers of the perfect meat with
MACADAMIA NUT CRUST a heap of TUNA "poke" (tartare), TARO PANCAKE, HEARTS of PALM and two options of dips: CHILI WATER (which was intense at first, but the heat was so fleeting, I kept dipping) and SOY GINGER.
I have to say I love the booths at Kinkead's, but our table last night was oddly opposite a two-top for a couple which was facing us. It's hard not to stare at lovey-dovey couples when you are right next to them, but they seemed into each other and their food!
A movement in the kitchen of pastry chefs may be the cause for the problem with the coffee cake on my COFFEE & CAKE (also called COFFEE Sampler on a different menu) which sported a way too dry SOUR CREAM & WLANUT Coffee Cake, a superb lighter-than-Sacher-torte MOCHA OPERA CAKE, a tasty demi-tasse of COFFEE JELLY & ESPRESSO CREAM and a scoop of BAILEY's IRISH Ice Cream. The CARROT PECAN ROULADE with Rum Raisin Ice Cream and Butterscotch Sauce is ALWAYS a hit and two of us opted for the yummy HAZELNUT CAKE with Crunchy Waffle Layer, Chocolate & Hazelnut Mousse, Coffee Sauce and Praline Ice Cream.
Hopefully the new scallop dish will grow soon and the coffee cake will get an extra douse of sour cream in the mixing, cause we know we are always headed back to Kinkead's!
Thursday, June 21, 2007
a quick musing on MIE N YU
We have always enjoyed MIE N YU in Georgetown, and Samuel always has had fun there as well. We all love the decor with a Middle Eastern cushy feel almost like a seraglio. Indeed, our evening ended the other day with Samuel being MESMERIZED by a belly dancer who came to our table to dance for quite a while!
Samuel had a good time playing with a new friend, the 7-year old daughter of a friend of mine who joined us with her husband and 2 girls. The evening turned sour when he tipped over one of the big candles and got hot wax in his hair; these really are not the safest things to decorate with. Sam was not as happy with the food this time as he would not touch the LACQUERED DUCK SPRING Roll which is a Mandarin Pancake (think burrito) wrap with lots of meat and a very spicy sauce luckily far removed from the plate's center. He did enjoy some of the delish BANANA HUMMOUS which is a huge portion and we even asked for more fried plantains. As always, he adored his tropical fruit sorbets! Our server, John was most accommodating, but we sometimes had to search him out as the place was quite busy.
John also told me the $65 THAI NAA RAAWN 6-course tasting was very spicy, and I later joked that he must think ketchup is spicy. He said anything with vinegar is spicy; so I need to gauge next time. Indeed the first course was the spiciest of the tasting and one of the best, but nothing was intense after that. The VEAL & CRUNCHY THAI BASIL came in a Coriander & Scallion Pancake with a Thai Red Finger Chili & Kaffir Lime Dipping Sauce that packed a nice punch. We had already finished our first wine, a creamy WIMMER CZERNY 2005 GRUNER VELTLINER, as our friends were not familiar with the varietal (I think they may
have found a new wine!). The spicy food went great with our second wine an Oregon PINOT GRIS from ELK COVE that had a very sweet nose, but was dry and worked so well with the foods. The NORTHERN CORN FRITTER had interesting Pickled Chilis and Shallots but was an uneventful dish, while the ROASTED SQUID SATAY was special because of the Chopped Peanut & Chili Relish that was different but still many of the lime & coriander ingredients were repeated a bit too much. The
highlight was the SOFT SHELL CRAB with Red & Green Curry, Stir Fried Pineapple and Grape Tomatoes. We had moved on to a magnificent ELK GROVE 2005 PINOT NOIR "La Boheme" that is a lesson in how to make wine--BIG fruit, rich and smooth...a wine I forgot was so fabulous. The largest course of the tasting was the DUCK VERMICELLI which had the most chewy fried rice vermicelli on top of a huge beautiful panko crusted Duck, Shrimp, Black Mushroom, Crab & Sweet Chili Sauce mixture.
Sadly the meal ended with a PAPAYA SOUP that was marred by two gummy Sweet Coconut Rice Balls that could have been left out, or replaced with something much more exciting.
Will felt the spice was lacking in his PULLED DUCK & LOBSTER SHUMAI appetizer and freaked with the shrimp heads and lobster shells in the tasty SHRIMP & LOBSTER IMPERIAL with Fermented Black Beans, Sherry, Ginger & Pork Fried Rice. Our friends seemed to like their dishes, but I can't help feeling that some of the spice was missing, although we had a great time just being in the casba-like setting with friends.
Samuel had a good time playing with a new friend, the 7-year old daughter of a friend of mine who joined us with her husband and 2 girls. The evening turned sour when he tipped over one of the big candles and got hot wax in his hair; these really are not the safest things to decorate with. Sam was not as happy with the food this time as he would not touch the LACQUERED DUCK SPRING Roll which is a Mandarin Pancake (think burrito) wrap with lots of meat and a very spicy sauce luckily far removed from the plate's center. He did enjoy some of the delish BANANA HUMMOUS which is a huge portion and we even asked for more fried plantains. As always, he adored his tropical fruit sorbets! Our server, John was most accommodating, but we sometimes had to search him out as the place was quite busy.
John also told me the $65 THAI NAA RAAWN 6-course tasting was very spicy, and I later joked that he must think ketchup is spicy. He said anything with vinegar is spicy; so I need to gauge next time. Indeed the first course was the spiciest of the tasting and one of the best, but nothing was intense after that. The VEAL & CRUNCHY THAI BASIL came in a Coriander & Scallion Pancake with a Thai Red Finger Chili & Kaffir Lime Dipping Sauce that packed a nice punch. We had already finished our first wine, a creamy WIMMER CZERNY 2005 GRUNER VELTLINER, as our friends were not familiar with the varietal (I think they may
have found a new wine!). The spicy food went great with our second wine an Oregon PINOT GRIS from ELK COVE that had a very sweet nose, but was dry and worked so well with the foods. The NORTHERN CORN FRITTER had interesting Pickled Chilis and Shallots but was an uneventful dish, while the ROASTED SQUID SATAY was special because of the Chopped Peanut & Chili Relish that was different but still many of the lime & coriander ingredients were repeated a bit too much. The
highlight was the SOFT SHELL CRAB with Red & Green Curry, Stir Fried Pineapple and Grape Tomatoes. We had moved on to a magnificent ELK GROVE 2005 PINOT NOIR "La Boheme" that is a lesson in how to make wine--BIG fruit, rich and smooth...a wine I forgot was so fabulous. The largest course of the tasting was the DUCK VERMICELLI which had the most chewy fried rice vermicelli on top of a huge beautiful panko crusted Duck, Shrimp, Black Mushroom, Crab & Sweet Chili Sauce mixture.
Sadly the meal ended with a PAPAYA SOUP that was marred by two gummy Sweet Coconut Rice Balls that could have been left out, or replaced with something much more exciting.
Will felt the spice was lacking in his PULLED DUCK & LOBSTER SHUMAI appetizer and freaked with the shrimp heads and lobster shells in the tasty SHRIMP & LOBSTER IMPERIAL with Fermented Black Beans, Sherry, Ginger & Pork Fried Rice. Our friends seemed to like their dishes, but I can't help feeling that some of the spice was missing, although we had a great time just being in the casba-like setting with friends.
Saturday, June 16, 2007
Luscious LACROIX & gorgeous gelato at CAPOGIRO (Philadelphia)
The weekend took us to Philadelphia to celebrate Samuel's 4th birthday at Sesame Place with some of his friends. We had a great time in the fun waterpark, but I strongly suggest if you head there, to bring a bag lunch. The food is AWFUL; even worse than that!
Over the weekend we stopped in at CAPOGIRO, Gelato Artisans (www.capogirogelato.com) located at both 117 So. 20th Street (Rittenhouse Square) and 119 So. 13th Street (near City Hall) and this has to be one of the NOT-TO-MISS places around these days. We begged them to think about opening in DC! While the kids enjoyed the simpler MEXICAN CHOCOLATE and SWEET MILK called FIOR di LATTE(almost vanilla), Sam was adventurous with the STRAWBERRY TARRAGON. DULCE di LECHE was pretty good, while THAI COCONUT MILK was dreamy. The highlight however was my CUCUMBER VODKA Sorbetto that was truly amazing, creamy, tasty and heavenly!
Dinner on Saturday for the two of us was at LACROIX at the Rittenhouse where Chef Matthew Levin has taken over from the legendary and now retired Chef Lacroix. He has done a superb job and introduced many international styles of food as well as methods of preparation that joggle the mind and challenge the palate.
We opted for the tasting menu which can be done in 3,4, or 5 courses PLUS dessert for $69,$78 or $85 respectively. There are many categories to choose from and we were even allowed a substitution from the ala carte menu; a truly brilliant experience that was really VERY reasonably priced.
The dining room on the hotel's second floor in unmemorable with its tile and carpet floor, large pillars lit through holes in the ceiling and cushy green velvet chairs and booths. The crisp yellow linens at the large spacious tables and nice stemware, china and crystal and excellent service all add to the experience. The view facing one way is over Rittenhouse Square and the other (Will asked me to change seats halfway through dinner) is of a boring apartment building next door; but one goes here for the view on the PLATE not through the windows!
While the uneventful bread scared us, a seared HAMACHI Amuse with STRAWBERRY, JICAMA and BASIL got our palates tingling while we sipped a very citrusy CHATEAUNEUF du PAPE BLANC from Domaine du Pere Caboche (Jean-Pierre Buisson) 2005. Normally the Chateauneuf Blancs are creamier, but this vintage really was similar to a Sauvignon Blanc and delicious as well.
My first course came from the "RAW" category and was one of the most exciting things ever to hit a plate: SMOKED BLACK COD FISH, Edamame Puree, RED RICE BEER FOAM and POP ROCKS. The beautiful sashimi sliced fish was seared on the edge and had a tiny crust of the pop rocks making each bite give a tingling sensation that lasted for quite some time. The pop rocks here had a slight sweetness, but the overall effect was also salty from the Red Rice Beer. I can only describe it as Crunchy Rice Crispies going snap, crackle, pop IN your mouth AFTER you swallow!
Will chose from the VEGETABLE category for his first item: WILD EUROPEAN ASPARAGUS, SLOW COOKED QUAIL EGG, BLACK TRUFFLE ICE CREAM. It was like a gelee block with the asparagus beautifully assembled at attention and a dish he was thrilled with.
For the 2nd course I chose from the same category with the TASTING of FARMHOUSE BEETS:Salt-Roasted, GOLDEN with LEMONGRASS, RAW, GINGER ALE & Black Walnuts with Vanilla. This was indeed an odd dish, but fun. The Purple Beets were roasted in a cylinder, while the baby golden ones were halved with the lemongrass cream under them. A carpaccio- style of rose colored beets with salt was a highlight and the ginger ale beet shooter was on oddity. It actually didn't work the first time around and the beets gelled in the bottom, so they quickly brought me a replacement, AND offered a spoon to scoop out the bottom of the first one as well.
Will moved to the SHELLFISH category and had a MAINE SCALLOP RAVIOLI with CHANTERELLES, ASPARAGUS & SQUID INK. It was a nice dish, but the least exciting all night. The ravioli were small adorable (and I think had a small filling of scallop) on the side and the squid ink was more like a paint splash on the plate and basically not a sauce.
The ala carte item we next shared was the CRISP SOFT SHELL CRAB with BUTTERERD PEAS and JASMINE. There were two preparations each of a 1/2 crab, one simply sauteed, the other superbly battered with Oatmeal and fried to perfection.
At this time we moved on to our red wine selected by the wonderful sommelier Eric Simonis (from Alsace) who chose a MERCUREY 1er CRU "Les Champs Martin" 2000 from Domaine Menand Pere et Fils that at $79 was a great bargain, but started out quite light (with a huge nose), but quickly opened up to a huge mouth-filling Burgundy. Will had a small glass of Domaine de Monbazillac la Maletie 2002 Dordogne with his SEARED HUDSON VALLEY FOIE GRAS (from the Poultry/
Game category) with SOUR CHERRIES, PORT and SZECHUAN Pepper "Cookies" that really were slightly peppered shortbreads(yum). A wonderful combination of new ideas and I opted from the Fish category for a superb BLACK GROUPER with ASPARAGUS, Orange Sauce Maltise (think Hollandaise) and Crispy Bacon.
Course 5 came from the MEAT section and was a perfectly size dish for each of us. I must say that at no point did we feel overdone or stuffed; every portion was just right. I had the GASPOR FARM PIGLET with FAVA BEANS, Blis Maple and Smoked Steelhead Roe that was another wonderful and seemingly simple dish, while will had more excitement on his plate with the ETHIOPIAN Style BABY GOAT with Aromatic Air which consisted of a mini double rib chop, a medallion and a stew. It was a tasting within a tasting and came with a TAMARIND-AGED GOAT CHEESE SOUFFLE.
We could not resist the delicious cheese cart and we still had red wine left--so we ordered (one plate to split) and they offered many extras!
SAINT MAURE
WABASH CANNONBALL (from Washington State) which Will described as "tasting like a homeless person"
AZEITAU (spelling)
MAHAJIERO de PIMENTO from the Canary Islands which reminded me of the Spanish Garroxta with a bit more pepper
TOURMELAY
Irish AHARAWAN
UPLAND PLEASANT RIDGE Cheddar (from Connecticut) and it was mind-boggling to boot!
Dessert was no less confusing with so many tastes and things on each plate I hope I can get them all: The GIANDUJA BISCUIT COULANT was a Toasted Meringue, Banana Chip Praline and Curried Banana Ice Cream and the "TRIP TO THE BEACH" was Fudge Marquise, Citrus-Coconut "Creamsicle" with Macadamia "Sand" with Pink Peppercorns. This was an ingenious idea and a brilliant display --and tasted great to boot. A glass of superb BANYULS "Les Close de Paulilees 2005" for me and MUSCAT de BAUMES de VENISE for Will sent us home to our hotel very happy and looking forward to visiting LACROIX again!
Over the weekend we stopped in at CAPOGIRO, Gelato Artisans (www.capogirogelato.com) located at both 117 So. 20th Street (Rittenhouse Square) and 119 So. 13th Street (near City Hall) and this has to be one of the NOT-TO-MISS places around these days. We begged them to think about opening in DC! While the kids enjoyed the simpler MEXICAN CHOCOLATE and SWEET MILK called FIOR di LATTE(almost vanilla), Sam was adventurous with the STRAWBERRY TARRAGON. DULCE di LECHE was pretty good, while THAI COCONUT MILK was dreamy. The highlight however was my CUCUMBER VODKA Sorbetto that was truly amazing, creamy, tasty and heavenly!
Dinner on Saturday for the two of us was at LACROIX at the Rittenhouse where Chef Matthew Levin has taken over from the legendary and now retired Chef Lacroix. He has done a superb job and introduced many international styles of food as well as methods of preparation that joggle the mind and challenge the palate.
We opted for the tasting menu which can be done in 3,4, or 5 courses PLUS dessert for $69,$78 or $85 respectively. There are many categories to choose from and we were even allowed a substitution from the ala carte menu; a truly brilliant experience that was really VERY reasonably priced.
The dining room on the hotel's second floor in unmemorable with its tile and carpet floor, large pillars lit through holes in the ceiling and cushy green velvet chairs and booths. The crisp yellow linens at the large spacious tables and nice stemware, china and crystal and excellent service all add to the experience. The view facing one way is over Rittenhouse Square and the other (Will asked me to change seats halfway through dinner) is of a boring apartment building next door; but one goes here for the view on the PLATE not through the windows!
While the uneventful bread scared us, a seared HAMACHI Amuse with STRAWBERRY, JICAMA and BASIL got our palates tingling while we sipped a very citrusy CHATEAUNEUF du PAPE BLANC from Domaine du Pere Caboche (Jean-Pierre Buisson) 2005. Normally the Chateauneuf Blancs are creamier, but this vintage really was similar to a Sauvignon Blanc and delicious as well.
My first course came from the "RAW" category and was one of the most exciting things ever to hit a plate: SMOKED BLACK COD FISH, Edamame Puree, RED RICE BEER FOAM and POP ROCKS. The beautiful sashimi sliced fish was seared on the edge and had a tiny crust of the pop rocks making each bite give a tingling sensation that lasted for quite some time. The pop rocks here had a slight sweetness, but the overall effect was also salty from the Red Rice Beer. I can only describe it as Crunchy Rice Crispies going snap, crackle, pop IN your mouth AFTER you swallow!
Will chose from the VEGETABLE category for his first item: WILD EUROPEAN ASPARAGUS, SLOW COOKED QUAIL EGG, BLACK TRUFFLE ICE CREAM. It was like a gelee block with the asparagus beautifully assembled at attention and a dish he was thrilled with.
For the 2nd course I chose from the same category with the TASTING of FARMHOUSE BEETS:Salt-Roasted, GOLDEN with LEMONGRASS, RAW, GINGER ALE & Black Walnuts with Vanilla. This was indeed an odd dish, but fun. The Purple Beets were roasted in a cylinder, while the baby golden ones were halved with the lemongrass cream under them. A carpaccio- style of rose colored beets with salt was a highlight and the ginger ale beet shooter was on oddity. It actually didn't work the first time around and the beets gelled in the bottom, so they quickly brought me a replacement, AND offered a spoon to scoop out the bottom of the first one as well.
Will moved to the SHELLFISH category and had a MAINE SCALLOP RAVIOLI with CHANTERELLES, ASPARAGUS & SQUID INK. It was a nice dish, but the least exciting all night. The ravioli were small adorable (and I think had a small filling of scallop) on the side and the squid ink was more like a paint splash on the plate and basically not a sauce.
The ala carte item we next shared was the CRISP SOFT SHELL CRAB with BUTTERERD PEAS and JASMINE. There were two preparations each of a 1/2 crab, one simply sauteed, the other superbly battered with Oatmeal and fried to perfection.
At this time we moved on to our red wine selected by the wonderful sommelier Eric Simonis (from Alsace) who chose a MERCUREY 1er CRU "Les Champs Martin" 2000 from Domaine Menand Pere et Fils that at $79 was a great bargain, but started out quite light (with a huge nose), but quickly opened up to a huge mouth-filling Burgundy. Will had a small glass of Domaine de Monbazillac la Maletie 2002 Dordogne with his SEARED HUDSON VALLEY FOIE GRAS (from the Poultry/
Game category) with SOUR CHERRIES, PORT and SZECHUAN Pepper "Cookies" that really were slightly peppered shortbreads(yum). A wonderful combination of new ideas and I opted from the Fish category for a superb BLACK GROUPER with ASPARAGUS, Orange Sauce Maltise (think Hollandaise) and Crispy Bacon.
Course 5 came from the MEAT section and was a perfectly size dish for each of us. I must say that at no point did we feel overdone or stuffed; every portion was just right. I had the GASPOR FARM PIGLET with FAVA BEANS, Blis Maple and Smoked Steelhead Roe that was another wonderful and seemingly simple dish, while will had more excitement on his plate with the ETHIOPIAN Style BABY GOAT with Aromatic Air which consisted of a mini double rib chop, a medallion and a stew. It was a tasting within a tasting and came with a TAMARIND-AGED GOAT CHEESE SOUFFLE.
We could not resist the delicious cheese cart and we still had red wine left--so we ordered (one plate to split) and they offered many extras!
SAINT MAURE
WABASH CANNONBALL (from Washington State) which Will described as "tasting like a homeless person"
AZEITAU (spelling)
MAHAJIERO de PIMENTO from the Canary Islands which reminded me of the Spanish Garroxta with a bit more pepper
TOURMELAY
Irish AHARAWAN
UPLAND PLEASANT RIDGE Cheddar (from Connecticut) and it was mind-boggling to boot!
Dessert was no less confusing with so many tastes and things on each plate I hope I can get them all: The GIANDUJA BISCUIT COULANT was a Toasted Meringue, Banana Chip Praline and Curried Banana Ice Cream and the "TRIP TO THE BEACH" was Fudge Marquise, Citrus-Coconut "Creamsicle" with Macadamia "Sand" with Pink Peppercorns. This was an ingenious idea and a brilliant display --and tasted great to boot. A glass of superb BANYULS "Les Close de Paulilees 2005" for me and MUSCAT de BAUMES de VENISE for Will sent us home to our hotel very happy and looking forward to visiting LACROIX again!
Thursday, June 14, 2007
swing in to SANGAM Indian Cuisine 5 mins from DC
Last Thursday was Samuel's birthday and we opted to go with our friends and their 4-year old to SANGAM located in the Comfort Inn (free garage parking!) at 1211 N. Glebe Rd (at the corner of Washington Blvd) in Arlington (www.sangamrestaurant.com), right at the I-66 Glebe Rd exit just minutes from DC.
After perusing the menu over a MANGO LASSI which the kids adored (and we did, too), we opted to order several items and share. We WAY OVERORDERED. The appetizers are all huge portions and cost $3.50 to $5.00 so are an amazing bargain. We loved the PANEER PAKORA which are cottage cheese fritters and there CHICKEN PAKORA, also a fritter, both of which can be dipped into either of the two sauces provided.
Less exciting was the SHAMI KABOB made of ground beef and lentils and pan-fried as patties (similar top the mid-Eastern kefta kabob) but a bit on the dry side and oddly served with raw onions and green peppers (neither of which I like in their raw state!). Best was the piping hot huge VEGETABLE SAMOSA with potatoes, peas and spices in a pastry puff shell.
We had a pretty good and reasonably priced bottle of ST. SUPERY SAUVIGNON BLANC from Napa which works very well with the spices. We moved to a very nice medium bodied 2005 LOUIS BERNARD COTES du RHONE which again held up to the spices in the food. Our entrees were a SANGAM FEAST (made for two at an amazing $31) which includes TANDOORI CHICKEN, CHIKEN TIKKA (barbecued pieces), SEEKH KABOB, LAMB ROGANJOSH (cooked in a rich almond sauce like a stew), CHICKEN SAAG (curried with chopped spinach), NAVRATNA KORMA(vegetable curry in almond sauce), CREAMED LENTILS, RAITA (yogurt, cucumber, tomato, herbs), PALAU RICE and NAAN (flatbread). This oculd easily have fed three and we ordered two platters of this!! AND in my stupidity also a plate of SHRIMP KADAI (curried with vegetables) and SAAG PANEER (an always yummy spinach & cottage cheese combo).
The kids managed several bites of CHICKEN TIKKA MASALA which in kids version came with Indian spice-dusted fries and broccoli (Samuel would have none of that!). They seemed to like their KASMIRI NAAN which is made with dried fruits (especially cherries) and nuts, and I am always a fan of ONION KULCHA (that superb fluffy bread with chopped cooked onions).
Needless to say it was too much and we were stuffed. We had brought along a CHOCOLATE Birthday CAKE with MARSHMALLOW Icing that Samuel and I had baked at home (from my mother's recipe that goes back some 50 years!) which we all managed to enjoy a bit of before heading home.
SANGAM is nothing spectacular to look at, although the underlit dry ice lamps are cute. There are nice linens and the service is not wondrous (we poured our own wine, and had to pack our leftovers into the plastic containers as well), but the food is quite good and real deal!
After perusing the menu over a MANGO LASSI which the kids adored (and we did, too), we opted to order several items and share. We WAY OVERORDERED. The appetizers are all huge portions and cost $3.50 to $5.00 so are an amazing bargain. We loved the PANEER PAKORA which are cottage cheese fritters and there CHICKEN PAKORA, also a fritter, both of which can be dipped into either of the two sauces provided.
Less exciting was the SHAMI KABOB made of ground beef and lentils and pan-fried as patties (similar top the mid-Eastern kefta kabob) but a bit on the dry side and oddly served with raw onions and green peppers (neither of which I like in their raw state!). Best was the piping hot huge VEGETABLE SAMOSA with potatoes, peas and spices in a pastry puff shell.
We had a pretty good and reasonably priced bottle of ST. SUPERY SAUVIGNON BLANC from Napa which works very well with the spices. We moved to a very nice medium bodied 2005 LOUIS BERNARD COTES du RHONE which again held up to the spices in the food. Our entrees were a SANGAM FEAST (made for two at an amazing $31) which includes TANDOORI CHICKEN, CHIKEN TIKKA (barbecued pieces), SEEKH KABOB, LAMB ROGANJOSH (cooked in a rich almond sauce like a stew), CHICKEN SAAG (curried with chopped spinach), NAVRATNA KORMA(vegetable curry in almond sauce), CREAMED LENTILS, RAITA (yogurt, cucumber, tomato, herbs), PALAU RICE and NAAN (flatbread). This oculd easily have fed three and we ordered two platters of this!! AND in my stupidity also a plate of SHRIMP KADAI (curried with vegetables) and SAAG PANEER (an always yummy spinach & cottage cheese combo).
The kids managed several bites of CHICKEN TIKKA MASALA which in kids version came with Indian spice-dusted fries and broccoli (Samuel would have none of that!). They seemed to like their KASMIRI NAAN which is made with dried fruits (especially cherries) and nuts, and I am always a fan of ONION KULCHA (that superb fluffy bread with chopped cooked onions).
Needless to say it was too much and we were stuffed. We had brought along a CHOCOLATE Birthday CAKE with MARSHMALLOW Icing that Samuel and I had baked at home (from my mother's recipe that goes back some 50 years!) which we all managed to enjoy a bit of before heading home.
SANGAM is nothing spectacular to look at, although the underlit dry ice lamps are cute. There are nice linens and the service is not wondrous (we poured our own wine, and had to pack our leftovers into the plastic containers as well), but the food is quite good and real deal!
Tuesday, June 12, 2007
URBANA:oops on the appetizers, but.....
Last night we celebrated Will's new US citizenship with a dinner out at URBANA in the PALOMAR Hotel (2121 P Street, NW) just a block from Dupont Circle. Our expectations were high and in some ways they WERE met, but the overall experience left us with a doubt whether we would return. So many happy years were spent in the same spot under the guise of Gabriel (at the Radisson Barcelo) when chef Greggory Hill was in charge and even thereafter for a while, and while the renovation and new owners have breathed a truly new life and atmosphere into URBANA, something is missing.
After being seated we ordered a bottle of Moet et Chandon Brut Rose to celebrate the occasion only to be told that there was a new sommelier who had drastically changed the wine list and this was no longer available. It was replaced with a very nice ROGER POULLON et FILS Brut Rose for the same price. I asked if the sommelier was available to discuss the new wines as they were not on the list, and he had just left for the evening (at 730pm!). The staff was apologetic, but they need to get it together on the wine side.
As far as decor goes, the place is gorgeous. Warm wood floors and tables of woods of varying colors and comfy chairs and banquettes fill the room. Gray marble pillars and a matching bar and pizza bar are centerpieces. The pizza bar has a silver-leaf covered pizza oven in the wall with a cool log implanted wall above it. At the entrance opposite the bar a full backlit wall of wine bottles is also neat. I could have done without the bronze woven runners that crisscross the table as they fall into your lap and are too long. A wall on the street side has sleek dark green ceramic bricks with mirrors and red lights in the pillars.
The breads are fresh and yummy and come with a mildly spicy zucchini puree that is superb..we got seconds!
I was thinking of the CRISPY SARDINES appetizer which comes with Caramelized MELON & WHITE BALSAMIC HONEY GINGER GLAZE. I was warned that it was very small (at $9) so we decided to order one for the four of us and split the two sardines. Frankly, it was a puny portion and really should have three fish for this price or a buck more! It was, however, quite delish and the fish were nary too salty as well. Sharing this amounted to a nice amuse, which we were quite happy with.
Our white wine was a superb PIANE di MAGGIO Trebbiano d'Abruzzo 2005 which was quite reasonably priced (I must give them credit for that!) at under $30 and creamy and fruity at the same time. It was perfect with the URBANA GARLIC MUSSELS made with Herbes de Provence, tomato and White Wine. Sadly the small plate of 16 mussels was nowhere near the level of those at Beck or Mannequin Pis that we enjoyed in May! They needed more spice and garlic for sure. The GOAT CHEESE CROQUETTE comes with greens and green beans and pears in a large salad and was one of the better dishes (our very nice server, Stephen, had to explain that it was really a large deep fried goat cheese croquette on top of a superb and LARGE salad. Will's SPRING PEA AGNOLOTTI came with Chorizo, English peas (an homage to his origins!) and lobster. Only FOUR agnolotti were on the poorly designed narrow and long plate. Each forkful he took pushed something off the shallow elongated plate; a real mess despite a tasty dish. I assume the $14 price tag was for the lobster, so couldn't they throw on some more pasta?
We noticed a gorgeous pizza at the next table and decided that we SHOULD return and try the pizza and enjoy the wine on the next visit as that seemed a better choice. Speaking of wine, we moved to a red TASCA d'ALMEITA Nero d'Avola "Lamuri" 2004 from Sicily that Stephen suggested and it was delish at under $40 and worked superbly with all our meat dishes as well. These are wines we must remember when we are in Italy (both regions of Abruzzi & Sicily this summer!). The ELYSIAN FILED LAMB CHOP with Golden Raisin Polenta & Grain Mustard Jus was a hearty dish, but the Thomas Keller owned organic lamb suffered from much too much fat. The BRAISED PORK SHOULDER was a hit with Polenta, Picholine Olives & Mushrooms and the portion was HUGE despite its fairly low price! The surprise was the OSSO BUCO which must be shared by two (and theoretically is big enough for three people) which is a huge almost foot-long shank covered with more than a pound of yummy tender meat(with some tasty crunchy edges to boot!) in an amazing rich reduction. It comes with super green beans, fried shallots, sauteed chard and Olive Oil Mashed Potatoes. When we mentioned the potatoes were cold, they immediately brought another batch. We could not fail the excellent service at Urbana, everyone was courteous, kind and there were no problems with them, just the small disappointments of the kitchen. The DUCK FAT FRIES side order is nice, but does not compare with those of Blue Duck over at the Park Hyatt (although these are half the price!).
We were pretty full and decided to split two desserts which were quite good. The Assorted GRANITAS are an unexciting LIMONCELLO, a pretty good PEAR and a super RASPBERRY CHAMPAGNE. These come with some broiled fruits which is a nice addition. The PEACH PANNA COTTA is another light option and comes with lemon cookie, perfectly ripe and super-sweet little balls of CANTALOUPE and PEACH PUREE.
A bottle of superb not-too-sweet MACULAN TORCOLANO Veneto(another area we hit this summer!) 2003 dessert wine got us home feeing good,but we found it odd that the dessert wines listed on the menu had no bottle prices and we had to ask for it before ordering.
So, as I said, next time it's pizza and wine at Urbana.
After being seated we ordered a bottle of Moet et Chandon Brut Rose to celebrate the occasion only to be told that there was a new sommelier who had drastically changed the wine list and this was no longer available. It was replaced with a very nice ROGER POULLON et FILS Brut Rose for the same price. I asked if the sommelier was available to discuss the new wines as they were not on the list, and he had just left for the evening (at 730pm!). The staff was apologetic, but they need to get it together on the wine side.
As far as decor goes, the place is gorgeous. Warm wood floors and tables of woods of varying colors and comfy chairs and banquettes fill the room. Gray marble pillars and a matching bar and pizza bar are centerpieces. The pizza bar has a silver-leaf covered pizza oven in the wall with a cool log implanted wall above it. At the entrance opposite the bar a full backlit wall of wine bottles is also neat. I could have done without the bronze woven runners that crisscross the table as they fall into your lap and are too long. A wall on the street side has sleek dark green ceramic bricks with mirrors and red lights in the pillars.
The breads are fresh and yummy and come with a mildly spicy zucchini puree that is superb..we got seconds!
I was thinking of the CRISPY SARDINES appetizer which comes with Caramelized MELON & WHITE BALSAMIC HONEY GINGER GLAZE. I was warned that it was very small (at $9) so we decided to order one for the four of us and split the two sardines. Frankly, it was a puny portion and really should have three fish for this price or a buck more! It was, however, quite delish and the fish were nary too salty as well. Sharing this amounted to a nice amuse, which we were quite happy with.
Our white wine was a superb PIANE di MAGGIO Trebbiano d'Abruzzo 2005 which was quite reasonably priced (I must give them credit for that!) at under $30 and creamy and fruity at the same time. It was perfect with the URBANA GARLIC MUSSELS made with Herbes de Provence, tomato and White Wine. Sadly the small plate of 16 mussels was nowhere near the level of those at Beck or Mannequin Pis that we enjoyed in May! They needed more spice and garlic for sure. The GOAT CHEESE CROQUETTE comes with greens and green beans and pears in a large salad and was one of the better dishes (our very nice server, Stephen, had to explain that it was really a large deep fried goat cheese croquette on top of a superb and LARGE salad. Will's SPRING PEA AGNOLOTTI came with Chorizo, English peas (an homage to his origins!) and lobster. Only FOUR agnolotti were on the poorly designed narrow and long plate. Each forkful he took pushed something off the shallow elongated plate; a real mess despite a tasty dish. I assume the $14 price tag was for the lobster, so couldn't they throw on some more pasta?
We noticed a gorgeous pizza at the next table and decided that we SHOULD return and try the pizza and enjoy the wine on the next visit as that seemed a better choice. Speaking of wine, we moved to a red TASCA d'ALMEITA Nero d'Avola "Lamuri" 2004 from Sicily that Stephen suggested and it was delish at under $40 and worked superbly with all our meat dishes as well. These are wines we must remember when we are in Italy (both regions of Abruzzi & Sicily this summer!). The ELYSIAN FILED LAMB CHOP with Golden Raisin Polenta & Grain Mustard Jus was a hearty dish, but the Thomas Keller owned organic lamb suffered from much too much fat. The BRAISED PORK SHOULDER was a hit with Polenta, Picholine Olives & Mushrooms and the portion was HUGE despite its fairly low price! The surprise was the OSSO BUCO which must be shared by two (and theoretically is big enough for three people) which is a huge almost foot-long shank covered with more than a pound of yummy tender meat(with some tasty crunchy edges to boot!) in an amazing rich reduction. It comes with super green beans, fried shallots, sauteed chard and Olive Oil Mashed Potatoes. When we mentioned the potatoes were cold, they immediately brought another batch. We could not fail the excellent service at Urbana, everyone was courteous, kind and there were no problems with them, just the small disappointments of the kitchen. The DUCK FAT FRIES side order is nice, but does not compare with those of Blue Duck over at the Park Hyatt (although these are half the price!).
We were pretty full and decided to split two desserts which were quite good. The Assorted GRANITAS are an unexciting LIMONCELLO, a pretty good PEAR and a super RASPBERRY CHAMPAGNE. These come with some broiled fruits which is a nice addition. The PEACH PANNA COTTA is another light option and comes with lemon cookie, perfectly ripe and super-sweet little balls of CANTALOUPE and PEACH PUREE.
A bottle of superb not-too-sweet MACULAN TORCOLANO Veneto(another area we hit this summer!) 2003 dessert wine got us home feeing good,but we found it odd that the dessert wines listed on the menu had no bottle prices and we had to ask for it before ordering.
So, as I said, next time it's pizza and wine at Urbana.
Saturday, June 09, 2007
Beacon Bar & Grill goes awry
The Beacon Bar & Grill opened a while ago and we had an awful experince the first time, but since they hired a new chef and I met him recently, we decided to give it another go. I think we will call it quits for now (or maybe try only the brunch next time) at this large hotel bar and restaurant at the corner of Rhode Island Ave & 17th Streets.
We took Samuel for an early dinner on Saturday and the place was deserted, except for some bar fliesm at 530pm. It was still deserted when we left an hour later. For the most part Samuel was happy with his standard PENNE with TOMATO SAUCE accompanied by yummy French Fries, if they were a bit too salty. He also loved the undulating colored lights up the stairs behind the bar, if that's worth anything. I wanted the Crispy Duck Ravioli for a starter, but was told they were out of it, so opted for the one big hit of the meal, the EAST COAST SHRIMP TOAST which was basically a bruschetta-like toast with three tasty shrimp, mushrooms, sauteed spinach and a yummy light cream sauce on top. Will asked for the CRISPY CALAMARI and the BBG Burger as a main course and when they brought my shrimp they brought his burger, forgetting the appetizer! It took a couple of minutes to straighten this out, but we were quite confident that when the burger returned later it was the same one with quite lukewarm fries.
I enjoyed a glass of ALICE WHITE 2004 Australian Chardonnay with my shrimp, which took almost 10 minutes to get from the not-at-all-busy bartender 10 feet away, and switched to an awful TYRELL's 2003 LOST BLOCK Pinot Noir from Australia that clearly suffered from being open too long and not being stored properly. There was only alcohol and no fruit at all in the wine!
When Will finally got his Calamari it was quite good as was the tasty "Chesapeake" remoulade, but it was not really crispy...it was nicely breaded and yummy, but not "crispy" which nobody minded, but that was the description on the menu.
Will's burger was mediocre and the fries nowhere near as good as Samuel's and my BLACKENED CHICKEN TORTILLA SALAD with Romaine, Pico de Gallo, Corn Salsa and Cilantro was nice but nothing to rave about. Sam enjoyed a huge scoop of RASPBERRY SORBET and we asked for the bill. It was all wrong, as we were charged for Sam's fries and drink which are supposed to be part of the Kid's meal. Someone from the staff apologized that our server, Anna, was in training, we paid, left and decided that Beacon is not blooming.
We took Samuel for an early dinner on Saturday and the place was deserted, except for some bar fliesm at 530pm. It was still deserted when we left an hour later. For the most part Samuel was happy with his standard PENNE with TOMATO SAUCE accompanied by yummy French Fries, if they were a bit too salty. He also loved the undulating colored lights up the stairs behind the bar, if that's worth anything. I wanted the Crispy Duck Ravioli for a starter, but was told they were out of it, so opted for the one big hit of the meal, the EAST COAST SHRIMP TOAST which was basically a bruschetta-like toast with three tasty shrimp, mushrooms, sauteed spinach and a yummy light cream sauce on top. Will asked for the CRISPY CALAMARI and the BBG Burger as a main course and when they brought my shrimp they brought his burger, forgetting the appetizer! It took a couple of minutes to straighten this out, but we were quite confident that when the burger returned later it was the same one with quite lukewarm fries.
I enjoyed a glass of ALICE WHITE 2004 Australian Chardonnay with my shrimp, which took almost 10 minutes to get from the not-at-all-busy bartender 10 feet away, and switched to an awful TYRELL's 2003 LOST BLOCK Pinot Noir from Australia that clearly suffered from being open too long and not being stored properly. There was only alcohol and no fruit at all in the wine!
When Will finally got his Calamari it was quite good as was the tasty "Chesapeake" remoulade, but it was not really crispy...it was nicely breaded and yummy, but not "crispy" which nobody minded, but that was the description on the menu.
Will's burger was mediocre and the fries nowhere near as good as Samuel's and my BLACKENED CHICKEN TORTILLA SALAD with Romaine, Pico de Gallo, Corn Salsa and Cilantro was nice but nothing to rave about. Sam enjoyed a huge scoop of RASPBERRY SORBET and we asked for the bill. It was all wrong, as we were charged for Sam's fries and drink which are supposed to be part of the Kid's meal. Someone from the staff apologized that our server, Anna, was in training, we paid, left and decided that Beacon is not blooming.
Sunday, June 03, 2007
RISCKY's for BARBECUE is better in Ft Worth
On Sunday we took Samuel to see the uneventful longhorn cattle "run" where they walk nonchalantly down the sleepy Sunday street of the Ft Worth Cattle Stockyards. Seeing all that beef made us hungry, so we took several folk's suggestions and popped into the very casual RISCKY's at 140 E. Exchange St. for a BBQ BRISKET SANDWICH. Sam was pretty happy with his chicken fingers and fries which I thought were sublime, but the SLICED BRISKET BBQ SANDWICH was a true treat. I can't wait to return for the $9.95 all you can eat ribs special next time in town!
Of course, I'll have to diet for a week before I can take these monster size portions ag'in.
Of course, I'll have to diet for a week before I can take these monster size portions ag'in.
Saturday, June 02, 2007
SAINT-EMILION is a scent of a France in Texas (Ft Worth)
Last night's dinner before the world premiere of the opera FRAU MARGOT (which was fabulous) was just west of downtown Fort Worth at SAINT-EMILION (3617 W 7th St) billed as a country French restaurant. The decor is truly French provincial, but with an partially open kitchen framed by a glass wall and many gleaming copper pots. The menu is large and varied and offers 2, 3 or 4 course options for a reasonable price (all under $40). The wine list is varied and reasonable with huge French leanings and some quite pricey Burgundies as well.
I started with a glass of ANGLIM VIOGNIER from Paso Robles (Calif) which was quite nice and will opted for the DOMAINE CHANDON Chardonnay from Napa which he later had seconds of.
For a starter the TENDERLOIN TARTARE has a spicy Texas punch and it is the leanest of tartares around. It was odd that it came with a mini-salad of greens since all the meals come with a small salad anyway. Indeed, the SALADE de MON GRANDE PERE is yummy Boston lettuce with walnuts, lardons and vinaigrette--just perfect.
The excellent French bread comes with creamy butter and Fleur de sel salt, but the butter plates lack knives, which seemed odd since we did not want to use the same knife to dip into the big butter churn!
For entrees Will and I immediately drifted to the FRIED SOFT SHELL CRABS (can you believe we have NOT seen them on the menu back home in DC yet!?) with a TARRAGON BEURRE BLANC which came with an odd, but tasty VEGETABLE LASAGNA (carrots, zucchini, eggplant) and two asparagus. We were glad the portion was not monstrous, but the two crabs were indeed quite large and most tasty and meat. I had a glass of the French KIMMERIDGIEN CHARDONNAY (Burgundy) from Jean Marc
Brocard that was perfect with the crabs as it was drier and more mineral in content than the oaky creamy Domaine Chandon from California Will opted for.
Dessert was Will's GRAND MARNIER CHEESECAKE which was okay, but no raves, while my TUILE filled with CREAM CHEESE and BLACKBERRIES flambeed in RASPBERRY LIQUEUR was a wonderful treat as the berries were slightly warm and the cheese not too sweet (and I didn't have to finish it all anyway). Lots of coffee and off to the opera....
I started with a glass of ANGLIM VIOGNIER from Paso Robles (Calif) which was quite nice and will opted for the DOMAINE CHANDON Chardonnay from Napa which he later had seconds of.
For a starter the TENDERLOIN TARTARE has a spicy Texas punch and it is the leanest of tartares around. It was odd that it came with a mini-salad of greens since all the meals come with a small salad anyway. Indeed, the SALADE de MON GRANDE PERE is yummy Boston lettuce with walnuts, lardons and vinaigrette--just perfect.
The excellent French bread comes with creamy butter and Fleur de sel salt, but the butter plates lack knives, which seemed odd since we did not want to use the same knife to dip into the big butter churn!
For entrees Will and I immediately drifted to the FRIED SOFT SHELL CRABS (can you believe we have NOT seen them on the menu back home in DC yet!?) with a TARRAGON BEURRE BLANC which came with an odd, but tasty VEGETABLE LASAGNA (carrots, zucchini, eggplant) and two asparagus. We were glad the portion was not monstrous, but the two crabs were indeed quite large and most tasty and meat. I had a glass of the French KIMMERIDGIEN CHARDONNAY (Burgundy) from Jean Marc
Brocard that was perfect with the crabs as it was drier and more mineral in content than the oaky creamy Domaine Chandon from California Will opted for.
Dessert was Will's GRAND MARNIER CHEESECAKE which was okay, but no raves, while my TUILE filled with CREAM CHEESE and BLACKBERRIES flambeed in RASPBERRY LIQUEUR was a wonderful treat as the berries were slightly warm and the cheese not too sweet (and I didn't have to finish it all anyway). Lots of coffee and off to the opera....
Friday, June 01, 2007
raising the steaks at REATA (Ft Worth, TX)-avoid Angelo's
We are all here for a weekend with friends and opera at the new Ft. Worth Opera Festival and last night headed around the corner from the Bass Performing Arts Center (a gorgeous hall) for dinner before Madama Butterfly. Our top choice was one of the best downtown spots for years, REATA (www.reata.net) named for the ranch from the movie Giant. We were greeted by many friendly smiles and ushered up to the 4th (top) floor where a busy bar (catch the guy with the red outfit, matching cowboy boots and hat!) was hosting a hot happy hour. We headed inside the glass domed dining area with views of downtown (and low noise levels!) to be greeted by our darling server Audrey and soon after by public relations manager, Kitty, who wanted to be sure we were happy!
It was hard to choose, but Will went for the spicy, yummy, exciting (he said it was the best ever) TORTILLA SOUP with Chicken & Avocado. It was called a "cup" but came in a huge bowl. Welcome to Texas, where we learned the portions are always monstrous. I opted for the SMOKED QUAIL with JALAPENO CHEDDAR GRITS & Molasses BBQ Sauce. The meat was deliciously smokey and tasty and the grits cheesy and gooey and the whole thin was quite filling. We had a bottle of L'AVENTURE Stephan Vineyard ZINFANDEL 2001 forom Paso Robles that was quite spicy and huge (15.8% alcohol).
The 4th floor has hide covered chairs and simple wood tables, but the other dining rooms are amazingly decorated (they can accommodate like 600 seated!). The first floor has a glass enclosed and soundproof private area in the center for those who WANT to be seen, and several other more private spaces. Don't miss the display of cool chaps which include Hoss Cartwright's from Bonanza; do miss the dummy of James Dean.
Our entrees were the same; the house specialty of PAN SEARED PEPPER CRUSTED TENDERLOIN (10 ounces each--but they looked at least a pound!) with RED PEPPER MASHED POTAOES, superb Green Beans and a Port Wine Sauce. At $31, it might be pricey, but well worth it. The slightly sweet port sauce was an amazing foil to the spice on the crust and when combined made for a mouthwatering steak dish that was a highlight to our day, especially after the mediocre BBQ RIBS we had at ANGELO's here in town for lunch (supposedly the best in the area!). Needless to say the Zin was excellent with the filets.
Dessert was NY FRIED CHEESECAKE in a Phyllo triangle with Creme Anglaise & Caramel. It was delish, and filling and too much (and not as good as the Cheesecake Spring Roll I had in NY just three weeks earlier!). The coffee was great and came with requisite sugars in a red(well, pink), white and blue display (with a hint of yellow)--WELCOME TO TEXAS.
Tonight we dine again and hopefully will eat less so we can enjoy the world premiere at the opera more!
It was hard to choose, but Will went for the spicy, yummy, exciting (he said it was the best ever) TORTILLA SOUP with Chicken & Avocado. It was called a "cup" but came in a huge bowl. Welcome to Texas, where we learned the portions are always monstrous. I opted for the SMOKED QUAIL with JALAPENO CHEDDAR GRITS & Molasses BBQ Sauce. The meat was deliciously smokey and tasty and the grits cheesy and gooey and the whole thin was quite filling. We had a bottle of L'AVENTURE Stephan Vineyard ZINFANDEL 2001 forom Paso Robles that was quite spicy and huge (15.8% alcohol).
The 4th floor has hide covered chairs and simple wood tables, but the other dining rooms are amazingly decorated (they can accommodate like 600 seated!). The first floor has a glass enclosed and soundproof private area in the center for those who WANT to be seen, and several other more private spaces. Don't miss the display of cool chaps which include Hoss Cartwright's from Bonanza; do miss the dummy of James Dean.
Our entrees were the same; the house specialty of PAN SEARED PEPPER CRUSTED TENDERLOIN (10 ounces each--but they looked at least a pound!) with RED PEPPER MASHED POTAOES, superb Green Beans and a Port Wine Sauce. At $31, it might be pricey, but well worth it. The slightly sweet port sauce was an amazing foil to the spice on the crust and when combined made for a mouthwatering steak dish that was a highlight to our day, especially after the mediocre BBQ RIBS we had at ANGELO's here in town for lunch (supposedly the best in the area!). Needless to say the Zin was excellent with the filets.
Dessert was NY FRIED CHEESECAKE in a Phyllo triangle with Creme Anglaise & Caramel. It was delish, and filling and too much (and not as good as the Cheesecake Spring Roll I had in NY just three weeks earlier!). The coffee was great and came with requisite sugars in a red(well, pink), white and blue display (with a hint of yellow)--WELCOME TO TEXAS.
Tonight we dine again and hopefully will eat less so we can enjoy the world premiere at the opera more!
Saturday, May 26, 2007
fah-fah on FIREBIRD in Manhattan
One thinks hard and seriously when trying to fine dine before the theater at Times Square, and since Will doesn't get to NYC as much as I do, I thought FIREBIRD at 365 West 46th Street on the famed Restaurant Row would be different, fun and hopefully innovative. I knew it was pricey, but we went in for sticker shock when the unexciting $49 pre-theatre prix fixe seemed a bit boring. So for an average of $15-20 per appetizer and $30-40+ per entree (desserts are $10, but always be aware of those supplements that haunt this menu; $8 for Bananas Foster!) we decided to brave the Russian cuisine and sit amongst the nostalgic Tsarist crystal (with double headed eagle emblems), photographs of the royal family ( we were next to Pavlova) and cozy banquettes for our pre-theater dinner last night.
The piano player seemed fine at first, but got worse at the evening progressed (he was displaced with lots of Tchaikovsky during his breaks) and the four types of bread seemed nice, but were cold parkerhouse rolls re-invented.
I started with an amazingly excellent TELYACHI GLANDI or a huge portion of CRISP SWEETBREADS with Wild Mushrooms in a Rich MADEIRA REDUCTION served atop an open Puff Pastry (termed "en croute"). This could have been an entree with a veggie on the side! Will chose the MANTI or minced lamb dumplings served in a mushroom consomme, that was lighter and less tasty, but not bad. A NEBBIOLO d'ALBA 2004 for PODERI DOLLA was a good buy in the high-$40's as most wines seemed to have a 4-5 times markup! I went into wine sticker shock, especially when a glass of wine was $13 for wine that normally costs $6-7 a bottle! This wine had nice light tannins, medium body and a nice slightly spicy flavor in the mouth with a hint of licorice. It was perfect with our entree of UKRANSKY BORSHCH or Ukranian style hot borscht, a beet and cabbage soup with Smoked Duck (1 slice), Pork, Beef Brisket, Sour Cream, Beets and "Others" which I guess was cabbage and mushrooms. This portion for $34 was filling after the appetizers, but quite small in the end.
Will enjoyed the WARM CHOCOLATE CAKE with Almond Ice Cream (I gave it a "C") and the coffee was quite nice, but only at $4.75 a cup (not including tax and tip!).
We asked the server why other folks got an amuse and we didn't and he went into apology mode. We only asked this since a woman sitting opposite us had decided to clear her amuse plate and place it on a tray near us. We started to observe her and her companion and it was the best part of the evening (even better than TARZAN the Musical!). She stabbed her bread with a fork and ate food from across the table and I am so sorry I left my videocam at home, as you would have all loved this--as would have UTUBE!
Anyway, our server came with HOUSE VODKA of iced honey vodka with 12 spice which was really great. This other couple saw us drinking it and ordered it as well!
The bathrooms of dark red marble with old Russian stock certificates was cute, but hardly worth the price.
So--don't even have a drink at FIREBIRD unless its this yummy house spiced vodka..and be ready to pay about $20 a glass with tax and tip!
EAT WELL and try to SAVE!
The piano player seemed fine at first, but got worse at the evening progressed (he was displaced with lots of Tchaikovsky during his breaks) and the four types of bread seemed nice, but were cold parkerhouse rolls re-invented.
I started with an amazingly excellent TELYACHI GLANDI or a huge portion of CRISP SWEETBREADS with Wild Mushrooms in a Rich MADEIRA REDUCTION served atop an open Puff Pastry (termed "en croute"). This could have been an entree with a veggie on the side! Will chose the MANTI or minced lamb dumplings served in a mushroom consomme, that was lighter and less tasty, but not bad. A NEBBIOLO d'ALBA 2004 for PODERI DOLLA was a good buy in the high-$40's as most wines seemed to have a 4-5 times markup! I went into wine sticker shock, especially when a glass of wine was $13 for wine that normally costs $6-7 a bottle! This wine had nice light tannins, medium body and a nice slightly spicy flavor in the mouth with a hint of licorice. It was perfect with our entree of UKRANSKY BORSHCH or Ukranian style hot borscht, a beet and cabbage soup with Smoked Duck (1 slice), Pork, Beef Brisket, Sour Cream, Beets and "Others" which I guess was cabbage and mushrooms. This portion for $34 was filling after the appetizers, but quite small in the end.
Will enjoyed the WARM CHOCOLATE CAKE with Almond Ice Cream (I gave it a "C") and the coffee was quite nice, but only at $4.75 a cup (not including tax and tip!).
We asked the server why other folks got an amuse and we didn't and he went into apology mode. We only asked this since a woman sitting opposite us had decided to clear her amuse plate and place it on a tray near us. We started to observe her and her companion and it was the best part of the evening (even better than TARZAN the Musical!). She stabbed her bread with a fork and ate food from across the table and I am so sorry I left my videocam at home, as you would have all loved this--as would have UTUBE!
Anyway, our server came with HOUSE VODKA of iced honey vodka with 12 spice which was really great. This other couple saw us drinking it and ordered it as well!
The bathrooms of dark red marble with old Russian stock certificates was cute, but hardly worth the price.
So--don't even have a drink at FIREBIRD unless its this yummy house spiced vodka..and be ready to pay about $20 a glass with tax and tip!
EAT WELL and try to SAVE!
Friday, May 25, 2007
don't pass on EL PARAISO in DC - ANGELO's PIZZA is perfect in NYC
Last night we attended a pre-theater buffet at EL PARAISO RESTAURANT at 1916 14th St (at T St.) and were quite surprised at the high quality of the Salvadoran-Mexican cuisine. The PUPUSAS are the BEST in town (don't skip the marinated cabbage) and the buffet options of RICE & BEANS, FRIED PLANTAINS and a super-mix of chicken & beef fajitas was moist and tasty. We can't wait to go back and order off the menu!
Today we came to NYC with Samuel and his first meal in the Big Apple was a ANGELO's PIZZA at 1043 2nd Ave at 55th St. We sat outdoors and enjoyed the sights going by and while it took a while to get our order in, it came quickly and the server apologized that they were understaffed.
We all split a perfect pizza with PEPPERONI &SUN DRIED TOMATOES (Sam had the plain side) and he loved the pizza as well as the fresh basil leaves adorning it. The crust was some of the best I have ever had. The FRIED CALAMARI was nice, but the sauce wimpy, and Will thought the pieces were too large (I didn;'t mind them with a splash of lemon). Speaking of lemon, Samuel loved his (I thought way too sweet) lemonade while we quaffed a great 2005 ALLEGRINI VALPOLICELLA Classico that was just right with pizza and had a slight spice as well.
I finished with an excellent SALAD of BEETS, Greens, Goat Cheese & Walnuts in a tasty vinaigrette. Will opted for the basic TIRAMUSA and Sam hit the jackpot with the STRAWBERRY GELATO which he slurped up from the bowl after he finished (need I say more?). The portions here are huge and they even have family portions on everything from pastas (they looked great) to salads which is great for a family, group or take-home!
We heade back to the hotel where Sam crashed fast and we follow soon....
Today we came to NYC with Samuel and his first meal in the Big Apple was a ANGELO's PIZZA at 1043 2nd Ave at 55th St. We sat outdoors and enjoyed the sights going by and while it took a while to get our order in, it came quickly and the server apologized that they were understaffed.
We all split a perfect pizza with PEPPERONI &SUN DRIED TOMATOES (Sam had the plain side) and he loved the pizza as well as the fresh basil leaves adorning it. The crust was some of the best I have ever had. The FRIED CALAMARI was nice, but the sauce wimpy, and Will thought the pieces were too large (I didn;'t mind them with a splash of lemon). Speaking of lemon, Samuel loved his (I thought way too sweet) lemonade while we quaffed a great 2005 ALLEGRINI VALPOLICELLA Classico that was just right with pizza and had a slight spice as well.
I finished with an excellent SALAD of BEETS, Greens, Goat Cheese & Walnuts in a tasty vinaigrette. Will opted for the basic TIRAMUSA and Sam hit the jackpot with the STRAWBERRY GELATO which he slurped up from the bowl after he finished (need I say more?). The portions here are huge and they even have family portions on everything from pastas (they looked great) to salads which is great for a family, group or take-home!
We heade back to the hotel where Sam crashed fast and we follow soon....
Sunday, May 20, 2007
dining is still delicious at DINO's
While we had a wonderful evening at BECK on Saturday, the birthday celebration continued on Sunday when my sister, brother, sister-in-law and nephew joined Will, Samuel & I for a wonderful family dinner at DINO (www.dino-dc.com) which has become on of Sam's favorite spots due to the penne pasta, sauce and loads of parmesan on his made-to-order children's portion. On Sundays and Monday there is the added incentive of 33% those wines priced over $50, and as I have said before the wines collected by owner Dean Gold over the years are truly excellent.
While Sam enjoyed his pasta we started with an excellent bottle of BUCCI "Villa Bucci" 2001 Verdicchio from the Marche region of Italy that is an oaked wine, a rarity for this grape, and a tasty bet to boot.
The appetizers were varied around the table with the fresh flown in from Italy BURRATA being a big hit with its buffala mozzarella wrapped around ricotta with an olive tapenade, olio and tomato basil sauces surrounding; a true and rare treat for cheese lovers (oh boy would this be great with some heirloom tomatoes in the summer!). The BARBABIETOLE or Beet Salad is not your average beet salad in that it has small diced veggies and includes cucumber and tomato. While less pure that an only sliced beet salad it is delish and is topped with three yummy mini FRIED GOAT CHEESE FRITTERS, For extra taste you can add pancetta for $1.00!
Dino has many entree options, but we all seemed to be in PASTA-MODE so i went for the new dish on the menu: CONCHIGLIE AI GRANCHI which is saffron shell pasta, crab, ramps, herbs and olio; a superb combination and reasonably light for the summer as well. Others opted for the heavier and tasty PAPPARDELLE with WILD BOAR Ragu or the FUSILI al Ragu d'AGNELLO, a lamb ragu with pork and veal over the homemade pasta. YUM!
It was not hard for me to go with a bigger red wine when Dean suggested a HILBERG NEBBIOLO 2003 that had a monstrous nose and was intensely earthy on the tongue, but not tannic or super strong--we fell in love immediately!
Desserts varied from Sam's COOKIES & CREAM GELATO to my SOGNO di LIMONCELLO a combo of LEMON CUSTARD with BISQUIT and homemade RASPBERRY Sorbetto, not one of us went home unhappy!
A quiet week in store, but more from NYC this weekend!
While Sam enjoyed his pasta we started with an excellent bottle of BUCCI "Villa Bucci" 2001 Verdicchio from the Marche region of Italy that is an oaked wine, a rarity for this grape, and a tasty bet to boot.
The appetizers were varied around the table with the fresh flown in from Italy BURRATA being a big hit with its buffala mozzarella wrapped around ricotta with an olive tapenade, olio and tomato basil sauces surrounding; a true and rare treat for cheese lovers (oh boy would this be great with some heirloom tomatoes in the summer!). The BARBABIETOLE or Beet Salad is not your average beet salad in that it has small diced veggies and includes cucumber and tomato. While less pure that an only sliced beet salad it is delish and is topped with three yummy mini FRIED GOAT CHEESE FRITTERS, For extra taste you can add pancetta for $1.00!
Dino has many entree options, but we all seemed to be in PASTA-MODE so i went for the new dish on the menu: CONCHIGLIE AI GRANCHI which is saffron shell pasta, crab, ramps, herbs and olio; a superb combination and reasonably light for the summer as well. Others opted for the heavier and tasty PAPPARDELLE with WILD BOAR Ragu or the FUSILI al Ragu d'AGNELLO, a lamb ragu with pork and veal over the homemade pasta. YUM!
It was not hard for me to go with a bigger red wine when Dean suggested a HILBERG NEBBIOLO 2003 that had a monstrous nose and was intensely earthy on the tongue, but not tannic or super strong--we fell in love immediately!
Desserts varied from Sam's COOKIES & CREAM GELATO to my SOGNO di LIMONCELLO a combo of LEMON CUSTARD with BISQUIT and homemade RASPBERRY Sorbetto, not one of us went home unhappy!
A quiet week in store, but more from NYC this weekend!
Saturday, May 19, 2007
bravo to BRASSERIE BECK on my birthday
BRASSERIE BECK opened quietly only one month ago, but is already busy and booming (1101 K St, NW). Literally, the younger brother of Marcel's, one of Washington's fine dining establishments, Chef ROBERT WIEDMAIER has gone casual (as so many folks are doing this day) but with lots of class and fine food. BECK, named for their younger son, who is also Samuel's age (maybe one day we will open Chez Samuel!), is, for me, a clear winner of the recently opened CENTRALE in that it has a much larger menu, huge and reasonable wine list, monstrous beer menu (it is a BELGIAN Bistro), and while noisy, is not at the "I can't hear you " noise levels, even on a Saturday night.
Upon entering you may head to the large marble bar and hig tables to the right where you can watch either the flat screen TV or the closed circuit TV of the kitchen plating area! There is also an amazing coffee station nearby with two huge chrome espresso machines that impressed me to no end! The raw bar selections are displayed near the entrance as well with each oyster labeled so you can decide which you would like (I took one of each). There are huge Andy Thornton railroad station like clocks and high ceilings giving a feel quite reminiscent of the Quai d'Orsay Museum in Paris (which, of course, was a rail
station prior to its present incarnation). The floors are stone, which does not lower the noise levels, and sadly amplified the several accidents that occurred during our stay. Two heavy trays were dropped and we all jumped; when a glass fell off a nearby table it shattered ALL OVER making a truly godawful mess and requiring several staff to get on the their knees for some time to be sure all the slivers were cleaned up.
Get past this and you will have a wonderful time, since the service (our server Jamie--who called himself by his last name Russo, as there are three Jamies there!) was excellent and super-attentive, and the food are divine.
At the bar I started with the selection of 6 oysters from the West Coast: Penn Cove, Otter Cove, Sunset Beach, Wildcat Cove, Stellar Bar & Hollow Creek--all excellent and HUGE and plump. A glass of ELEMENTAL CELLARS (Oregon) 2002 "Deux Vert Vineyards" MELON was a perfect foil for the shellfish with its crisp fruit and dryness.
At the table we enjoyed some wines I had brought from home. It's odd that someone out there (you know who you are) mentioned to me last week that the wine list at BECK was not too big. Boy, were they wrong! Not only is it HUGE, but it is exciting and inventive and many selections are way under $40-50! Anyway, we opened a superb MARCEL DEISS Alsace Grand Cru 1999 Altenberg de Bergheim which has huge limestone mineral hints and big fruit(esp.apricot) to boot; a
wonderful aperitif.
It took us a long time to decide what to order, so we started by choosing one of the STEAMED MUSSLES (White Wine, Parsley, & Garlic) for the table to share. The mussles can also be ordered with FENNEL & CHORIZO or APPLE & CURRY. They were HUGE & PLUMP like I had never seen before (almost like they had had hormone injections!) and the accompanying Belgian FRITES were superb, although they are still not as good as the chunkier version at Marcel's! Only the trio of
mayonnaise dips was unexciting consisting of a mild garlic, a pinkish "Rosanna" with a bit of ketchup, and the best, a curry infused. Our second wine at the table was the sister to the one I had at the bar, a French MELON 2005 "Sur Lie" from Domaine de la Quilla, a Muscadet Sevre et Marne that was nice, but couldn't touch the Oregon version!
We decided to share some more starters and chose the easy to share and excellent CHARCUTERIE PLATE (if a bit pricey) which comes with house pate, paperthin cut Prosciutto, Speck (yum) and a wonderful French saucisson; a small ramekin of LAMB RILLETTES is covered with sauteed red & yellow peppers. On the side are gherkins, sweet pickled onions and an odd relish or marmalade that had a soft nut consistency like sweetmeat. The BRANDADE of COD was a real treat, a creamy thick spread that comes hot in a large bowl, and while it is eaten with a spoon or smothered on bread, it is pretty easy to pass and share.
A harder to share choice, but one of the best dishes was the rich PEA SOUP with VEAL CHEEK MEATBALLS; four mini-balls were perched on top of a mound of mashed potatoes in the center of a gorgeous green soup that was some of the best pea soup ever (and the balls had an excellent slight spice to them as well!).
Finally, the dud starter was the SHRIMP CROQUETTES that everyone insisted smelled of ammonia, so we sent them back after each of us had a taste (they were eventually refunded on the check, although the first check did not have the credit--our server was very sorry!). By this time we had ordered a wonderful GAMAY BEAUJOLAIS "Brouilly" 2005 from CHATEAU de THIVIN where I had actually visited winemaker Claude Geoffrey several years ago and fell in love with his simple and tasty wines.
Entrees were superb across the board, with two folks opting for repeats on the MUSSELS, and the like of a wonderful CHOUCROUTE en Croute which is a variation on the traditional Alsatian sausage and sauerkraut dish cooked in puff pastry. LAMB SHANK with White Beans was the Belgian take on Osso Buco I guess and another huge portion and the RABBIT LOIN with KRIEK BEER was cooked in a manner that reminded me of barbeque and was as tasty as could be. I opted for the DUCK CONGOLESE ALMONDINE which was also a large portion (they ALL were) of rare breast with raisins, almonds and couscous. We opened a beautiful
SATGLINAO 1995 SANGIOVESE from Staglin Vineyards of Napa that was just at its peak and the last one of its kind from my cellar.
Before dessert we opened the third bottle we brought which was a KRACHER 1995 TROCKENBEERENAUSLESE No. 12 Grand Cuvee that has aged so amazingly it now has that typical super-viscous apricot rich flavor, but a hint of pepper on the tongue. It is amazing what 10 years does to these complex but tasty dessert wines I adore!
We choose three desserts to share and the least exciting was the BELGIAN BREAD PUDDING which was made with Chocolate and Cherries macerated in beer. The Caramel Cheese Cake was nice, but the hit and star was easily the PEAR TARTE TATIN with Honey Cinnamon Ice Cream. I did miss a birthday candle (they did know it was a big day for me--my thirtieth PLUS 21!).
but no biggie, I had a great meal with some great friends!
Upon entering you may head to the large marble bar and hig tables to the right where you can watch either the flat screen TV or the closed circuit TV of the kitchen plating area! There is also an amazing coffee station nearby with two huge chrome espresso machines that impressed me to no end! The raw bar selections are displayed near the entrance as well with each oyster labeled so you can decide which you would like (I took one of each). There are huge Andy Thornton railroad station like clocks and high ceilings giving a feel quite reminiscent of the Quai d'Orsay Museum in Paris (which, of course, was a rail
station prior to its present incarnation). The floors are stone, which does not lower the noise levels, and sadly amplified the several accidents that occurred during our stay. Two heavy trays were dropped and we all jumped; when a glass fell off a nearby table it shattered ALL OVER making a truly godawful mess and requiring several staff to get on the their knees for some time to be sure all the slivers were cleaned up.
Get past this and you will have a wonderful time, since the service (our server Jamie--who called himself by his last name Russo, as there are three Jamies there!) was excellent and super-attentive, and the food are divine.
At the bar I started with the selection of 6 oysters from the West Coast: Penn Cove, Otter Cove, Sunset Beach, Wildcat Cove, Stellar Bar & Hollow Creek--all excellent and HUGE and plump. A glass of ELEMENTAL CELLARS (Oregon) 2002 "Deux Vert Vineyards" MELON was a perfect foil for the shellfish with its crisp fruit and dryness.
At the table we enjoyed some wines I had brought from home. It's odd that someone out there (you know who you are) mentioned to me last week that the wine list at BECK was not too big. Boy, were they wrong! Not only is it HUGE, but it is exciting and inventive and many selections are way under $40-50! Anyway, we opened a superb MARCEL DEISS Alsace Grand Cru 1999 Altenberg de Bergheim which has huge limestone mineral hints and big fruit(esp.apricot) to boot; a
wonderful aperitif.
It took us a long time to decide what to order, so we started by choosing one of the STEAMED MUSSLES (White Wine, Parsley, & Garlic) for the table to share. The mussles can also be ordered with FENNEL & CHORIZO or APPLE & CURRY. They were HUGE & PLUMP like I had never seen before (almost like they had had hormone injections!) and the accompanying Belgian FRITES were superb, although they are still not as good as the chunkier version at Marcel's! Only the trio of
mayonnaise dips was unexciting consisting of a mild garlic, a pinkish "Rosanna" with a bit of ketchup, and the best, a curry infused. Our second wine at the table was the sister to the one I had at the bar, a French MELON 2005 "Sur Lie" from Domaine de la Quilla, a Muscadet Sevre et Marne that was nice, but couldn't touch the Oregon version!
We decided to share some more starters and chose the easy to share and excellent CHARCUTERIE PLATE (if a bit pricey) which comes with house pate, paperthin cut Prosciutto, Speck (yum) and a wonderful French saucisson; a small ramekin of LAMB RILLETTES is covered with sauteed red & yellow peppers. On the side are gherkins, sweet pickled onions and an odd relish or marmalade that had a soft nut consistency like sweetmeat. The BRANDADE of COD was a real treat, a creamy thick spread that comes hot in a large bowl, and while it is eaten with a spoon or smothered on bread, it is pretty easy to pass and share.
A harder to share choice, but one of the best dishes was the rich PEA SOUP with VEAL CHEEK MEATBALLS; four mini-balls were perched on top of a mound of mashed potatoes in the center of a gorgeous green soup that was some of the best pea soup ever (and the balls had an excellent slight spice to them as well!).
Finally, the dud starter was the SHRIMP CROQUETTES that everyone insisted smelled of ammonia, so we sent them back after each of us had a taste (they were eventually refunded on the check, although the first check did not have the credit--our server was very sorry!). By this time we had ordered a wonderful GAMAY BEAUJOLAIS "Brouilly" 2005 from CHATEAU de THIVIN where I had actually visited winemaker Claude Geoffrey several years ago and fell in love with his simple and tasty wines.
Entrees were superb across the board, with two folks opting for repeats on the MUSSELS, and the like of a wonderful CHOUCROUTE en Croute which is a variation on the traditional Alsatian sausage and sauerkraut dish cooked in puff pastry. LAMB SHANK with White Beans was the Belgian take on Osso Buco I guess and another huge portion and the RABBIT LOIN with KRIEK BEER was cooked in a manner that reminded me of barbeque and was as tasty as could be. I opted for the DUCK CONGOLESE ALMONDINE which was also a large portion (they ALL were) of rare breast with raisins, almonds and couscous. We opened a beautiful
SATGLINAO 1995 SANGIOVESE from Staglin Vineyards of Napa that was just at its peak and the last one of its kind from my cellar.
Before dessert we opened the third bottle we brought which was a KRACHER 1995 TROCKENBEERENAUSLESE No. 12 Grand Cuvee that has aged so amazingly it now has that typical super-viscous apricot rich flavor, but a hint of pepper on the tongue. It is amazing what 10 years does to these complex but tasty dessert wines I adore!
We choose three desserts to share and the least exciting was the BELGIAN BREAD PUDDING which was made with Chocolate and Cherries macerated in beer. The Caramel Cheese Cake was nice, but the hit and star was easily the PEAR TARTE TATIN with Honey Cinnamon Ice Cream. I did miss a birthday candle (they did know it was a big day for me--my thirtieth PLUS 21!).
but no biggie, I had a great meal with some great friends!
Sunday, May 13, 2007
NATSUMI at Times Square in NY is now a new favorite
After a matinee today I took in an early dinner at NATSUMI (www.natsuminyc.com) in the Theater District at 226 West 50th which has been open only two months and boasts a Japanese-Italian fusion cuisine. Although the menu is sushi-laden, I opted for the more intriguing fusion dishes and I think i may have found a new favorite in NY!
The calm dining room fronts the street with tall glass door/windows that were open today and there are no more than 30 seats with a sushi bar for 6. The slate and pebble floor mixes with blond woods and the blonde leather and darker wood chairs and banquettes match the tables. The staff is warm, welcoming and helpful to boot.
I started with a perfect aperitif of ONIKOROSHI Wakatake Dai-Ginju Sake with a floral nose but wonderfully earthy in the mouth. First came my SEAFOOD SPRING ROOL with POMEGRANATE PESTO SAUCE and hints of mustard. Four huge halves of crispy rolls stuffed with whitefish, salmon, tempura-fried and regular onions gave a bursting mouthful of flavors. I moved on to a glass of simple MARCHESE FUMANELLI SOAVE 2004 which went perfectly with one of the dishes described as "newstyle carpaccio": a TUNA with PEPEROCINO Vinaigrette came with eight top grade sashimi slices of tuna topped with some peppers and a cube of amber gelee in the bed of vinaigrette that was like SUSHI goes ROMA since the peppery vinaigrette was reminiscent of wasabi and soy.
I listened to my server and was thrilled with the NATSUMI MIXED GRILL a monster plate (for $20) of 6 shrimp and a chicken breast all cooked in a magnificent SPICY GARLIC SAUCE and served with Rice as well as Sesame seeds, broccoli, gorgeous tasty purple eggplant (and I don't usually care for eggplant), Baby bok choy, carrots and a huge disk of sweet potato. This was a FEAST; a dish that goes on and on! I tried to east slowly to enjoy it all and watched the passersby. While the view was not like my recent trip to Vienna it was fun to see the huge WRESTLEMANIA poster reflected (with Donald Trump on it) reflected against the WICKED poster for the show across the street. I saw a woman in hot pants and boots (do they still wear that>?) and many other wonderful sights...but I digress. My wine was a tasty COLLEPINO Super Tuscan2004 from Castello Banfi that was medium bodied and had a warmth that followed each sip and went well with the spice from then dish.
I ate slowly and decided on my server's advice for dessert which easily wins one of the top desserts on EARTH: TEMPURA CHEESE CAKE which is cubed NY Cheese cake in coconut flakes on a berry coulis, a truly rich and amazing dish that must NOT be avoided. I had a glass of LYCHEE INFUSED SAKE and and headed to the airport where I sadly await my very delayed flight.
The calm dining room fronts the street with tall glass door/windows that were open today and there are no more than 30 seats with a sushi bar for 6. The slate and pebble floor mixes with blond woods and the blonde leather and darker wood chairs and banquettes match the tables. The staff is warm, welcoming and helpful to boot.
I started with a perfect aperitif of ONIKOROSHI Wakatake Dai-Ginju Sake with a floral nose but wonderfully earthy in the mouth. First came my SEAFOOD SPRING ROOL with POMEGRANATE PESTO SAUCE and hints of mustard. Four huge halves of crispy rolls stuffed with whitefish, salmon, tempura-fried and regular onions gave a bursting mouthful of flavors. I moved on to a glass of simple MARCHESE FUMANELLI SOAVE 2004 which went perfectly with one of the dishes described as "newstyle carpaccio": a TUNA with PEPEROCINO Vinaigrette came with eight top grade sashimi slices of tuna topped with some peppers and a cube of amber gelee in the bed of vinaigrette that was like SUSHI goes ROMA since the peppery vinaigrette was reminiscent of wasabi and soy.
I listened to my server and was thrilled with the NATSUMI MIXED GRILL a monster plate (for $20) of 6 shrimp and a chicken breast all cooked in a magnificent SPICY GARLIC SAUCE and served with Rice as well as Sesame seeds, broccoli, gorgeous tasty purple eggplant (and I don't usually care for eggplant), Baby bok choy, carrots and a huge disk of sweet potato. This was a FEAST; a dish that goes on and on! I tried to east slowly to enjoy it all and watched the passersby. While the view was not like my recent trip to Vienna it was fun to see the huge WRESTLEMANIA poster reflected (with Donald Trump on it) reflected against the WICKED poster for the show across the street. I saw a woman in hot pants and boots (do they still wear that>?) and many other wonderful sights...but I digress. My wine was a tasty COLLEPINO Super Tuscan2004 from Castello Banfi that was medium bodied and had a warmth that followed each sip and went well with the spice from then dish.
I ate slowly and decided on my server's advice for dessert which easily wins one of the top desserts on EARTH: TEMPURA CHEESE CAKE which is cubed NY Cheese cake in coconut flakes on a berry coulis, a truly rich and amazing dish that must NOT be avoided. I had a glass of LYCHEE INFUSED SAKE and and headed to the airport where I sadly await my very delayed flight.
Friday, May 11, 2007
INDUS VALLEY is intriguing Indian on NY's Upper West Side
I've been in NY for a quick weekend and searched for a new spot to dine and may have found a star. INDUS VALLEY is not centrally located, unless you happen to be on the Upper West Side. At 2636 Broadway (at the corner of 100th Street), it's bit out of the way for Lincoln Center, but worth the quick subway detour several stops, since the Indian cuisine is superb, if the service a bit lackluster.
I was greeting by a hostess in sari and jeweled glittery slippers (who never stopped chewing gum all evening) and the male wait staff are all well dressed and courteous. I only felt they were not were not very interested in me, what I chose or ate, or much else for that matter; there was sense of aloofness I somehow felt. The traditional chutneys arrived with some crunchy flatbread (I forget the name) and I opted not to fill up on the wonderful breads one can order at Indian restaurants. I started with the ALU CHAT (chat is a mixture of dry mango powder, rock salt, dry ginger, pepper, crushed pomegranate seeds, mint leaves, Bishop's leaves, caraway seeds, nutmeg, cloves and asafoetida). My version was BOILED DICED POTAOTOES and CHICK PEAS with a Tangy Chat Masala, Fresh Lime Juice, Mint, Tamarind and Fresh Coriander. It was the perfect opening salad on a warm evening after a rush in from the airport. I cooled down since the dish was not hot, but the spice was superb; not intense or lingering at first (more mango chutney-like indeed), then it stays with you the more you eat. I LOVED IT. A glass of house PINOT GRIGIO was the perfect foil for the mild spices and fruit.
My entree was the COCHIN SHRIMP CURRY which was also not spicy but a creamy Yogurt & Lime Curry in Onion-Based gravy with Black Peppers, Garlic, Curry leaves, Mustard seeds and fresh coriander. There were six medium size shrimp over a bed of fragrant Jasmine Rice that actually beautifully presented in two separate serving dishes. At first I though that six shrimp seemed too few, but I quickly realized how wrong I was as I filled up on the rich orange sauce they bathed in.
I must also add that the water is served in the most adorable of bronze metal cups and the decor is typical Upper West Side with a small bar, tables of various sizes and an enclosed glass patio which is much lighter out front and offers street and passersby views. I was indeed too full to try dessert but the superb Indian coffee was a treat as I headed to the opera.
I was greeting by a hostess in sari and jeweled glittery slippers (who never stopped chewing gum all evening) and the male wait staff are all well dressed and courteous. I only felt they were not were not very interested in me, what I chose or ate, or much else for that matter; there was sense of aloofness I somehow felt. The traditional chutneys arrived with some crunchy flatbread (I forget the name) and I opted not to fill up on the wonderful breads one can order at Indian restaurants. I started with the ALU CHAT (chat is a mixture of dry mango powder, rock salt, dry ginger, pepper, crushed pomegranate seeds, mint leaves, Bishop's leaves, caraway seeds, nutmeg, cloves and asafoetida). My version was BOILED DICED POTAOTOES and CHICK PEAS with a Tangy Chat Masala, Fresh Lime Juice, Mint, Tamarind and Fresh Coriander. It was the perfect opening salad on a warm evening after a rush in from the airport. I cooled down since the dish was not hot, but the spice was superb; not intense or lingering at first (more mango chutney-like indeed), then it stays with you the more you eat. I LOVED IT. A glass of house PINOT GRIGIO was the perfect foil for the mild spices and fruit.
My entree was the COCHIN SHRIMP CURRY which was also not spicy but a creamy Yogurt & Lime Curry in Onion-Based gravy with Black Peppers, Garlic, Curry leaves, Mustard seeds and fresh coriander. There were six medium size shrimp over a bed of fragrant Jasmine Rice that actually beautifully presented in two separate serving dishes. At first I though that six shrimp seemed too few, but I quickly realized how wrong I was as I filled up on the rich orange sauce they bathed in.
I must also add that the water is served in the most adorable of bronze metal cups and the decor is typical Upper West Side with a small bar, tables of various sizes and an enclosed glass patio which is much lighter out front and offers street and passersby views. I was indeed too full to try dessert but the superb Indian coffee was a treat as I headed to the opera.
Sunday, May 06, 2007
make it the mussels at MANNEQUIN PIS (Olney, MD)
Dearest Foodies,
I am remiss and a week behind in this important posting on THE bistro in the burbs, so please accept my apologies and enjoy reading. We had been to MANNEQUIN PIS before, but it is now even better and a great place to dine pre-theater if you are headed to Olney, Maryland...or just for the 30 minute jaunt from downtown. Located at 18064 Georgia Ave(www.mannequinpis.com) this Belgian Bistro is a real treat for so far out of town, but don't go for the decor or the raunchy art on the walls, go for the food! You won't adore the drop ceiling, the not so comfy wicker and wood chairs or the small tables, but you will go home full and happy.
I started with the soup special a CHILLED PEA and LOBSTER which had an entire claw and a half a dapple of sour cream and some caviar to boot. A bargain at under $10, rich and creamy and filling. Will went for the ESCARGOTS en CROUTE which he liked and opted for a Belgian beer or two. He chose URTHEL and DUVEL both of which he liked (the latter having a quick yeast finish). I started with a superb Rose 2005 from Domaine du Aint-Antoine (from the Pays du Gard) which was perfect with the soup and went on to a RENE MURE PINOT GRIS 2004 which is their house wine and is ideal with the mussels.
We split an order of WILD BOAR & CRANBERRY SAUSAGE (they have an entire sausage menu) which we chose to come with the Sour Crout. It was not huge, but a nice in-between course amuse of sorts.
MUSSELS were on the menu for our main course although they have many other items. All the mussels come in gigantic cast iron kilo pots. I chose the mussel special of the day prepared with HORSERADISH, CREAM, GARLIC, HERBS & WHITE WINE. It was perfect, with the horseradish intensity only really being in the bottom of the pot when you mopped up the sauce. Will chose the "Bruxelles" (each type has a name) which features CELERY, ONION, HERBS, BACON, GOAT CHEESE & BEER. If we had to complain about anything, it would be that there were too many onions in both dish, which we simply avoided by not eating them or putting them in the shell repository (the upside down top of each steamer!).
Dessert could probably be avoided, although the French press coffee is very nice. We tried the CAFE GLACEE (spelled Glasse on the menu) which is basically an icy coffee parfait, but it did come with some nice mini chocolate chip cookies....off to the theater!
I am remiss and a week behind in this important posting on THE bistro in the burbs, so please accept my apologies and enjoy reading. We had been to MANNEQUIN PIS before, but it is now even better and a great place to dine pre-theater if you are headed to Olney, Maryland...or just for the 30 minute jaunt from downtown. Located at 18064 Georgia Ave(www.mannequinpis.com) this Belgian Bistro is a real treat for so far out of town, but don't go for the decor or the raunchy art on the walls, go for the food! You won't adore the drop ceiling, the not so comfy wicker and wood chairs or the small tables, but you will go home full and happy.
I started with the soup special a CHILLED PEA and LOBSTER which had an entire claw and a half a dapple of sour cream and some caviar to boot. A bargain at under $10, rich and creamy and filling. Will went for the ESCARGOTS en CROUTE which he liked and opted for a Belgian beer or two. He chose URTHEL and DUVEL both of which he liked (the latter having a quick yeast finish). I started with a superb Rose 2005 from Domaine du Aint-Antoine (from the Pays du Gard) which was perfect with the soup and went on to a RENE MURE PINOT GRIS 2004 which is their house wine and is ideal with the mussels.
We split an order of WILD BOAR & CRANBERRY SAUSAGE (they have an entire sausage menu) which we chose to come with the Sour Crout. It was not huge, but a nice in-between course amuse of sorts.
MUSSELS were on the menu for our main course although they have many other items. All the mussels come in gigantic cast iron kilo pots. I chose the mussel special of the day prepared with HORSERADISH, CREAM, GARLIC, HERBS & WHITE WINE. It was perfect, with the horseradish intensity only really being in the bottom of the pot when you mopped up the sauce. Will chose the "Bruxelles" (each type has a name) which features CELERY, ONION, HERBS, BACON, GOAT CHEESE & BEER. If we had to complain about anything, it would be that there were too many onions in both dish, which we simply avoided by not eating them or putting them in the shell repository (the upside down top of each steamer!).
Dessert could probably be avoided, although the French press coffee is very nice. We tried the CAFE GLACEE (spelled Glasse on the menu) which is basically an icy coffee parfait, but it did come with some nice mini chocolate chip cookies....off to the theater!
Saturday, May 05, 2007
Baltimore's ABACROMBIE is allright for pre-opera
Saturday evening Will and I popped up to Baltimore to catch the opera and ate at ABACROMBIE (58 W BIddle at Cathedral) just opposite Meyerhoff Hall and a block from the Lyric Opera. It sure is convenient, and is the current incarnation of the age old Society Hill Restaurant from umpteen years ago. The restaurant is downstairs and the front rooms are cozy if a bit dark. The rear is an atrium with a pretty dirty glass ceiling skylight at street level. The tables area bit close and it makes it easy to hear other folks...so don't dine here for intimacy any day when there is pre-theater!
An unexciting prix fixe menu is available (soup, dessert and an entree of chicken or salmon) so went a la carte. A refreshing bottle of HIRSCH 2003 HEILGENSTEIN Gruner Veltliner KAMPTAL reminded me of my recent trip to Austria. The vintage was great for Austria and it still drinks amazingly well with huge honeydew and apple flavors. An amuse came of cold CRAB SPRING ROLL with Orange Sauce (it was described as Lobster Roll for another nearby table?!) which should have been warm I think. The PAN SEARED SCALLOPS with GOAT CHEESE & BLACK PEPPER GRITS and a RED CURRANT COMPOTE which we both started with were superb: 3 huge scallops on a bed of yummy (not spicy) grits and that delicious compote for some bursts of tart fruit flavor.
The bread seemed to be rationed at first as we only got one piece each until almost the entree. The foccacia was quite tasty, but my first piece was a bit too crunchy from warming. The PAN RAOSTED HALIBUT with PARSNIP PUREE, Asparagus, BRAISED ARTICHOKES & TOMATO in a Fennel Broth was extremely fresh and flaky and moist; I only got 1/4 of an artichoke heart and 1/10th of a tomato diced! The PROSCIUTTO ROASTED PROK TENDERLOIN was gorgeous. Normally served with Blue Cheese Gateaux, they gladly replaced that with Lyonnaise(pronounced Lion-ays by our server!) Potatoes. Pork Belly WILTED ARUGOLA & Apple Gastric completed the plate.
The French press coffee was quite good and I loved my BASIL PANNA COTTA with STRAWBERRY GELEE and Pink Peppercorn Tuille. There was a green basil sauce and a strawberry sauce on either side making for nice touches and different flavors in each bite. Will had the decent APPLE TART with Vanilla Ice Cream and Caramel Cinnamon Sauce and we headed off to the opera!
An unexciting prix fixe menu is available (soup, dessert and an entree of chicken or salmon) so went a la carte. A refreshing bottle of HIRSCH 2003 HEILGENSTEIN Gruner Veltliner KAMPTAL reminded me of my recent trip to Austria. The vintage was great for Austria and it still drinks amazingly well with huge honeydew and apple flavors. An amuse came of cold CRAB SPRING ROLL with Orange Sauce (it was described as Lobster Roll for another nearby table?!) which should have been warm I think. The PAN SEARED SCALLOPS with GOAT CHEESE & BLACK PEPPER GRITS and a RED CURRANT COMPOTE which we both started with were superb: 3 huge scallops on a bed of yummy (not spicy) grits and that delicious compote for some bursts of tart fruit flavor.
The bread seemed to be rationed at first as we only got one piece each until almost the entree. The foccacia was quite tasty, but my first piece was a bit too crunchy from warming. The PAN RAOSTED HALIBUT with PARSNIP PUREE, Asparagus, BRAISED ARTICHOKES & TOMATO in a Fennel Broth was extremely fresh and flaky and moist; I only got 1/4 of an artichoke heart and 1/10th of a tomato diced! The PROSCIUTTO ROASTED PROK TENDERLOIN was gorgeous. Normally served with Blue Cheese Gateaux, they gladly replaced that with Lyonnaise(pronounced Lion-ays by our server!) Potatoes. Pork Belly WILTED ARUGOLA & Apple Gastric completed the plate.
The French press coffee was quite good and I loved my BASIL PANNA COTTA with STRAWBERRY GELEE and Pink Peppercorn Tuille. There was a green basil sauce and a strawberry sauce on either side making for nice touches and different flavors in each bite. Will had the decent APPLE TART with Vanilla Ice Cream and Caramel Cinnamon Sauce and we headed off to the opera!
Monday, April 30, 2007
Les DAMES d'ESCOFFIER do it deliciously
Last night was the Twelfth Annual Epicurean Food & Wine Auction and Gala Dinner which is held every other year under the auspices of the DC Chapter of LES DAMES d'ESCOFFIER INTERNATIONAL, a charity vested in supporting and aiding women in the food and wine and related industries. This event is always a treat since much of the food is prepared by the top female chefs in the area, and last night's delicious do at the National Museum of Women in the Arts (how appropriate is that!) was no different.
If you like food events (and who DOESN'T?) then this is one to get on the mailing list for, especially with the great silent and live auction items as well.
The evening started with a reception serving MARQUIS PHILIPS 2005 HOLLY's BLEND from Australia which is always a nice refreshing choice, but I opted for the deep enjoyable BLACK WING SHIRAZ 2005 from South Australia, which may not be an oyster wine, but went quite well with most of the hor's d'oevres:
Freshly Shucked KUMOMOTO OYSTERS with Sea Bean Vinaigrette served by JAMIE LEEDS of HANK's OYSTER BAR were a light and fun start and the vinaigrette was amazing since it had seaweed but was mild and did overpower the delicate bivalves.
Antipasti of MARINATED ROAST SHRIMP, PROSCIUTTO di PARMA and Mini- Breadsticks were served with a superb CAULIFLOWER-OLIVE mixture as well from RUTH GRESSER of PIZZA PARADISO
Washington's most famous female chef RIS LACOSTE (who will be opening a new spot in DC hopefully within the year) offered up creamy tasty SALMON RILLETTES with Cornichons and SALMON ROE
The passed items included the most spectacular MAINE LOBSTER & ASPARAGUS CRISPS from LISA diSTEFANO of SODEXHO Corporate Services and yummy MINI LAMB BURGERS a la MICHEL RICHARD from CARLA HALL & LYNN FOSTER of ALCHEMY CATERERS.
I missed Janis McLean's (Morrison-Clark Inn) Nettle Gelee and while I liked the GRISSINI with BEEF CARPACCIO and SHALLOT TEMOULADE from NORA POUILLON of Restaurant NORA and ASIA NORA they did make the breadsticks a bit soggy after sitting on the plate for a while! Her AVOCADO NORI ROLLS with WASABI-GREEN ONION Sauce were nice. After about 90 minutes of munching and schmoozing with many friends, we moved downstairs to the museum's beautiful and elegant grand foyer for dinner prepared by DESIGN CUISINE. A magnificent CRAYFISH, SHRIMP & LOBSTER ARTICHOKE-SEAFOOD STACK with Dill Vinaigrette (very mild) and Julienne of SNOW PEAS got us started and really filled me up. The KENNEDY POINT 2005 SAUVIGNON BLANC from Marlborough in New Zealand was full of grapefruit and citrus and an ingenious pairing as well.
The entree was a ROAST RACK of LAMB with ELDERBERRY WINE MARINADE, Fiddlehead Ferns, Hazelnuts & Shallots served with a POTATO-BLACK TRUFFLE TIMBALE and Green & White Asparagus. WHile the white asparagus were not my beloved Marchfeldspargl from Europe, they were quite excellent. The meat was superb, the sauce excellent and I was quite impressed with the job that the folks from Design Cuisine did, not to mention the quality service staff. A DOMAINE GRAND VENEUR 2005 COTES du RHONE VILLAGES "Les Champauvins" started off a bit tight, but opened up wonderfully after about 30 minutes or so.
We were back upstairs after dinner for one of the most impressive dessert buffets ever. Jointly prepared by LAURE ALLEMAN-WEBER (of The Swiss Bakery, who did both my 40th & 50th birthday cakes!), LISA SCRUGGS (of BUZZ BAKERY) and KATE JANSEN of WILLOW Restaurant the trays kept going on forever and while I won't lilst everything we did have many tastes:
The QUARK & BLACKBERRY Torte was like a Panna Cotta and filled with a gorgeous blackberry-grappa compote! MILK CHOCOLATE RASPBERRY BITTERSWEET CHOCOLATE MOUSSE PYRAMID was beatiful to behold and tasted even better. TIRAMISU, Passion Fruit Pates de Fruit & Red Currant Pates de Fruit and more rounded out the selections from Ms. Alleman-Webb.
"KATE's COOKIES" featured the most impressive HAZELNUT SHORTBREAD with MILK CHOCOLATE GANACHE, HAZELNUT MERINGUE KISSES and to die for CARAMEL SFOGLIATELLI which are small thimbles of puff pastry with a rich caramel filling.
Ms. Scruggs had the miniature tartlettes division with Key Lime, Berry and Chocolate Ganache.
There were impressive cheese platters from AMERICAN FARMSTEAD CHEESES including a sharp crunchy PLEASANT RIDGE RESERVE from Uplands Dairy in Wisconsin, wonderful goats from Vermont Butter & Cheese Company and many more! The evening was rounded out with JONSEY OLD TAWNEY PORT and coffee from SANTA LUCIA ESTATE!
We lingered, snacked and schmoozed making a full four hours of the spectacular evening!
If you like food events (and who DOESN'T?) then this is one to get on the mailing list for, especially with the great silent and live auction items as well.
The evening started with a reception serving MARQUIS PHILIPS 2005 HOLLY's BLEND from Australia which is always a nice refreshing choice, but I opted for the deep enjoyable BLACK WING SHIRAZ 2005 from South Australia, which may not be an oyster wine, but went quite well with most of the hor's d'oevres:
Freshly Shucked KUMOMOTO OYSTERS with Sea Bean Vinaigrette served by JAMIE LEEDS of HANK's OYSTER BAR were a light and fun start and the vinaigrette was amazing since it had seaweed but was mild and did overpower the delicate bivalves.
Antipasti of MARINATED ROAST SHRIMP, PROSCIUTTO di PARMA and Mini- Breadsticks were served with a superb CAULIFLOWER-OLIVE mixture as well from RUTH GRESSER of PIZZA PARADISO
Washington's most famous female chef RIS LACOSTE (who will be opening a new spot in DC hopefully within the year) offered up creamy tasty SALMON RILLETTES with Cornichons and SALMON ROE
The passed items included the most spectacular MAINE LOBSTER & ASPARAGUS CRISPS from LISA diSTEFANO of SODEXHO Corporate Services and yummy MINI LAMB BURGERS a la MICHEL RICHARD from CARLA HALL & LYNN FOSTER of ALCHEMY CATERERS.
I missed Janis McLean's (Morrison-Clark Inn) Nettle Gelee and while I liked the GRISSINI with BEEF CARPACCIO and SHALLOT TEMOULADE from NORA POUILLON of Restaurant NORA and ASIA NORA they did make the breadsticks a bit soggy after sitting on the plate for a while! Her AVOCADO NORI ROLLS with WASABI-GREEN ONION Sauce were nice. After about 90 minutes of munching and schmoozing with many friends, we moved downstairs to the museum's beautiful and elegant grand foyer for dinner prepared by DESIGN CUISINE. A magnificent CRAYFISH, SHRIMP & LOBSTER ARTICHOKE-SEAFOOD STACK with Dill Vinaigrette (very mild) and Julienne of SNOW PEAS got us started and really filled me up. The KENNEDY POINT 2005 SAUVIGNON BLANC from Marlborough in New Zealand was full of grapefruit and citrus and an ingenious pairing as well.
The entree was a ROAST RACK of LAMB with ELDERBERRY WINE MARINADE, Fiddlehead Ferns, Hazelnuts & Shallots served with a POTATO-BLACK TRUFFLE TIMBALE and Green & White Asparagus. WHile the white asparagus were not my beloved Marchfeldspargl from Europe, they were quite excellent. The meat was superb, the sauce excellent and I was quite impressed with the job that the folks from Design Cuisine did, not to mention the quality service staff. A DOMAINE GRAND VENEUR 2005 COTES du RHONE VILLAGES "Les Champauvins" started off a bit tight, but opened up wonderfully after about 30 minutes or so.
We were back upstairs after dinner for one of the most impressive dessert buffets ever. Jointly prepared by LAURE ALLEMAN-WEBER (of The Swiss Bakery, who did both my 40th & 50th birthday cakes!), LISA SCRUGGS (of BUZZ BAKERY) and KATE JANSEN of WILLOW Restaurant the trays kept going on forever and while I won't lilst everything we did have many tastes:
The QUARK & BLACKBERRY Torte was like a Panna Cotta and filled with a gorgeous blackberry-grappa compote! MILK CHOCOLATE RASPBERRY BITTERSWEET CHOCOLATE MOUSSE PYRAMID was beatiful to behold and tasted even better. TIRAMISU, Passion Fruit Pates de Fruit & Red Currant Pates de Fruit and more rounded out the selections from Ms. Alleman-Webb.
"KATE's COOKIES" featured the most impressive HAZELNUT SHORTBREAD with MILK CHOCOLATE GANACHE, HAZELNUT MERINGUE KISSES and to die for CARAMEL SFOGLIATELLI which are small thimbles of puff pastry with a rich caramel filling.
Ms. Scruggs had the miniature tartlettes division with Key Lime, Berry and Chocolate Ganache.
There were impressive cheese platters from AMERICAN FARMSTEAD CHEESES including a sharp crunchy PLEASANT RIDGE RESERVE from Uplands Dairy in Wisconsin, wonderful goats from Vermont Butter & Cheese Company and many more! The evening was rounded out with JONSEY OLD TAWNEY PORT and coffee from SANTA LUCIA ESTATE!
We lingered, snacked and schmoozed making a full four hours of the spectacular evening!
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