BANGKOK's NAHM offers a terrific (if too much) tasting (2-13-25)

It seems I mistook the last review for our LAST NIGHT in BANGKOK and indeed this was it, and while there was again no oyster, this meal was a fabulous journey.

Will ordered the Sathorn Tonic to start with Belvedere vodka, guava shrub, and yes, Thai chili and loved it. My Tom Yum Tini was terrific as well with Thai (rice) spirit, galangal, lemongrass, chili, makrout lime leaf and lime.

Clothilde from France was the sommelier and helped us also choose between the various choices on the set menu. Again, the wine prices were sky high, and Clothilde offered a tatse of the Thai rose(Granmonte) which was very bland, so we settled on a Cotes du Rhone white blend of Viognier, Roussanne, Marsanne, Clairette, Bourbelanc and Grenache Blanc from E.Guigal.

Course 1 was the Blue Swimmer Crab(Pu Sorn Klin) with pickled garlic and peanuts on charcoal rice cracker which was a tad sweet and a Miang Napakoo or ceviche of live river prawn with chicken mango and herbs arrived on a betel leaf. In the past, I have not been a fan of these leaves in India but I have to say the wound and Thailand are softer cannot as sour. There was a tad of spice in the ceviche, so we reminded them that we like our food very spicy....

Course 2 was Dok Khajorn Nha Gung or minced prawn tanking jasmine, prawn and peanut gray on a rice cracker which reminded me of a prawn satay with a crunch. Miang Pla Sa-Er was another ceviche of kampachi(yellowtail) with white turmeric green mango again, served on a betel leaf. I was beginning to absorb some Thai words as Pla is fish and Miang is raw! It had a nice spice as well.

Course 3 was Plaa Hoy Shell, an Hokkaido herbal sea scallop with fresh roselle blossoms and dried shrimp that gave it a nice crunch. Next came Sao NAHM pillaging or fermented rice noodles with coconut cream, dried citrus fruits and dried prawns, as well as a chili mix.

Tom Yum Gung is the famous soup here with prawn, mushroom and chili paste... Which we would actually learn to make in our cooking class the next day up north. A second soup was Tom Klong Plaa Insri Rom Kwan, an Amberjack Soup with smoked coconut husk, that was kick ass spicy and we absolutely loved it. At this point, we began to become overwhelmed as everything arrived together and there did not seem to be any separation of courses...

Namprik Nakhon Baan was a shrimp taste relish with five citrus and acacia fried egg more like an omelet with veggies and radish and zucchini and the snap peas and okra. Gang Pu Bai Pla Chu was a southern turmeric curry a blue swimmer crab with betel leaf and kalamansi lime. Also at the same time we received Pad Nuea Sai Namai Nahm, a wagyu beef stir fry with yellow capsicum and wild rice stems, which reminded us of artichoke hearts but firmer and with a crunch.

We ordered a glass of red Cotes du Rhone blend from Jean-Paul Draumen which paired well.

Yes, we were completely overwhelmed and there was so much food, alas much of it is wasted, which we felt horrible about. Citrus sorbet with lingam was welcome and then A pre-dessert arrived of egg yolk noodle with yam!!

We chose different desserts. Mine was "Life cycle of coconut" a light option with pears, granite cassava and angel cake. Will had "Textures and Taste of Pandan" with sorbet, granite, a really yucky jelly and caramelized steamed rice that sent us home a tad unhappy, but way too full!!

While, we may not have had oysters we had everything else there was to eat in the entire city of Bangkok!!

Bangkok's Michelin KHAO@Ekkamai is extravagant (2/12/25)

 For our last night in Bangkok the world was not our oyster, but KHAO helped it be a superb night. We were greeted by the chef at the door, who seemed to disappear once the large room (which was pretty full) was all seated! The decor is all wood walls, ceilings, floors and tables with a large bar at one end of the room. The glass enclosed kitchen is behind this, and it all gave a very spacious feel even with lots of tables and numerous large groups. There were adorable hanging glass ornaments of tuk-tuks, toys and elephants on the wall near us. Once again, the wine prices were SKY HIGH so we settled on a Gruner Veltliner from Adelaide Hills, Australia by Pike & Joyce Separe which was more citrusy than usual with a hint of green apple and melo, some mineral taste and GREAT with the spice; basically indescribable. We asked for sparkling water which was oddly EIRA from Norway!!

We wanted to try the Thai Tacos with Crabmeat and Prawn and they were nice, but then

we asked our server PLA what was spicy and decided on the Southern Thai Rice Salad with Prawns which arrived with a pile of blue rice at the center surrounded by tons of various ingredients which she instructed us to mix up, There were chilis, dried fermented shrimp and veggies galore and Pla explained the rice was blue from a butterfly pea dye that is used in Thailand.  It was spicy and we loved it all. A little later Pla arrived with a bowl of dark blue dye and some flowers explaining these were the butterfly pea flowers and the dye used for the rice. We tasted the flowers and they were so sweet and truly the best flower I have ever eaten in my life and wanted more....we did get them later in the trip and in the meal, too.

Stir-fried Thai Basil with Chicken was last and it was okay, but we were so full it did not matter. We saw that there was a Steamed Butterfly Pea Rice Cake filled with Egg Yolk Custard and Coconut Ice Cream and could not resist our newfound favorite find. It was refreshing and delicious and we went home quite happy ready to head north.

Bangkok's CHARMGANG charmed us (2-10-25)

 We were exhausted from the overnight flight from Turkey, but managed to stay up to head to CHARMGANG just across the river from our luxurious suite at the Peninsula for dinner. 

The setting is simple with metal backed seats and gray lacquer(think formica-like) tables with wood trim. The kitchen was open and we were right next to all the fun action from the team of about 5 chefs. Music played ll night from "Crimson & Clover" to 1950's to the Beatles.

The wine prices were above $60 for really mediocre imported wines, so Will had a Ber Lao Gold Lao Brew artisanal, and I ordered a bottle of Kozaemon  Shiraku Kabosu Jumai sake which I loved and worked great with all the spice. Smoked Duck was first with wafers (really tacos) and Black Witch Grapes(all fotos on FB). We told them we like spice, and this dish was milder than most but tasty and fun. Our main was Red Curry of Dry-aged Duck with Salak (palm species called snakeskin like a pearl onion!) and Olive Leaves. The leaves were like grape leaves and larger than bay with great flavor and it was loaded with Thai chiles that had us all excited. Our final dish was a superb Salad of Sugar Cane Smoked Pork Jowl with Southern Sour Mango. The jowl had a BBQ-ish flavor and the mango was like sweet and sour and the dressing was akin to a balsamic base with a slight hint of sweetness yet loaded with lime and there were lots of dried shrimp with fish sauce. We were in heaven BUT full.

Not tired enough yet, we walked back down the other side of the river through an art fair (bought shirts and T-shirts) and headed to the Sky Bar atop the Lebua Hotel for the view. Well, the two (stingy) margaritas were $85 with tax and service, but I guess we were paying for the view! Quick boat ride across the river and to bed!

Bordeaux's LE LOUP still luscious (2-8-25)

 On our last evening in Bordeaux, before we were headed to Thailand the next day we decided to return to one of our favorite little places in old town Bordeaux--Le Loup. As is usual we arrived at 7pm when they open and there was only one table occupied already, but we knew we needed a reservation, and by the time 830pm rolled around, there wasn't an empty table in the place. Indeed, there are only about 12 tables and some are high tops, so it's always best to reserve and we get a regular table. I haven't mentioned the décor here because the last two times I so impressed by the food I failed to mention there is a wall of beautiful forest-like wallpaper, and the wooden tables are very lovingly made from large pieces of light wood.

We got a warm welcome from Ludovic, the manager, who seems to run the place single-handedly with one chef in the kitchen and then around 730pm someone else shows to help take orders and serve! He handed us menus and told us with me.Basic structure of the menu had changed, while some of the dishes were still being retained and it was now what we would call tapas style or shared plates, or plats à partager in French.

We love this idea since we like to order more things and share them anyway; you know how big a fan I am of tasting menus!

We decided to try Le Thym Citron cocktail made from vodka, lemon and thyme(fotos on FB) which we both loved and then went on to a bottle of 2010 Château La Levrette from nearby Blaye, Côtes de  Bordeaux which is a blend of 60% Merlot and 40%  Cabernet Sauvignon. The year was 2010 which is 15 years since harvest and thus the tannins were soft, but the wine had a wonderful earthiness to it.

We started with one of the Signature dishes Will had the last time: Oeuf Mollet or a soft egg in a bed of parmesan cream. The dish is rich and heavenly and actually I could even have a little bit of the cream cut back, but it is one you could have over and over every time you come here. Of course, there is always the fabulous French bread to mop up the extra cream!

Gnocchis châtaigne, ail noir, shiitake, compote d'oignons were delish chestnut gnocchi with black garlic and caramelized onions that was out of this world. I fondly remembered the pasta with Escargots that I had my first time, and I know this chef is really good at pasta.

Magret de Canard, Sauce Foie Gras was a perfectly rare to medium rare cooked duck breast sliced and then drenched in a decadent foie gras sauce tableside. Another dish we had before was still on the menu and we could not resist the Carrottes Fermentée Grillées, Huile de Sesame, Sesame Noir... Heirloom, carrots that are fermented and then grilled in a sesame oil with blackened sesame seeds on top. It's truly a brilliant vegetable dish and since I can't eat raw sesame seeds, they were very gracious and brought them on the side.

Poitrine de Porc Ibaiama, Sauce Saté were simply beautiful chunks of pork cooked perfectly and then served with a very mild satay sauce on the plate. 

On our last visit our friend Simon, who recommended Le Loup to me last year, ordered the White Chocolate Mousse with Granny-Smith and Celeriac Compote and Streusel for dessert and I was glad that Will and I decided to share this rich but novel choice. The white chocolate was nowhere near that cloyingly sweet type we get in the USA and all the flavors blended so we'll.

We headed home to get have a good night's sleep before we headed out to Bangkok to arrive here this morning!

Bordeaux's L'Oiseau Bleu is the best! (2-7-25)

 Our friends here have all raved about the one Michelin star restaurant that is only a 20 minute walk or so from our apartment (we did the bus/tram last night as it was raining) and we finally got a reservation to this small cozy spot that we have fallen in love with.

There are only 7 or 8 tables in the small room which are all well spaced, although we did seem to see a group of 4 come in and maybe go to another private room. Even so, the service was impeccable and the folks were just plain nice, offering to explain everything in French and English so Will could try to improve on his language skills, but even so get the gaps filled in.

There are three menus: 3 courses which you choose for 70 Euros and Chef's menus (which are a surprise) of 4 courses for 100Euros and 6 for 130. We chose the middle option which was simply perfect and settled in for a nice warm evening with the chilly rain outside. The decors is basically white with very comfy grey velvet chairs. Some artwork in white is unexciting, but it is all about the food.

The wine list by the glass 3 whites, 3 reds and an orange and there are also wine pairings. We decided to order a bottle of white and a bottle of red as the prices here were very reasonable and the sommelier, Ambre, was super helpful as well. I chose the Saint Veran 2022 "Les Crais" from Domaine de Fa which was excellent with our first dishes as many were fish-centered. Ambre suggested a Bordeaux red at 55 Euros(!!!) that was mostly merlot with some Cab Franc 2019 Chateau Barbe-Bleu (yes, Bluebeard) from Lussac Saint Emilion that we just adored and was excellent with the beef course.

With the arrival of the first 3 canapes, we knew this was going to be a treat, we just had no clue how totally amazing the entire meal and every dish and sip would be! Vegetable Tartelettes with flaky pastry arrived with a creme base with citron as well as my favorite the Wild Dorado Tartare in a cup with a confit mago and Madagascar vanilla dot on top that was simply heavenly. Third was Mushrooms atop a rich cauliflower puree!

We assumed this was the amuse, but no..that came next in the form of a single velvety oyster with apple accompanied by a parsnip foam. The gorgeous warm bread was accompanied by butter topped with mustard seeds! 

Saint Jacques are Scallops that were sliced thin and raw served with zucchini cream and served with confit kiwi as well as a smoked fir tree oil vinaigrette. While this dish was truly impressive it was the next that blew me away. Monkfsh was topped with razor clams and caviar on a bed of artichoke puree with a Jerusalem artichoke on the side all bathed in the most silky shellfish/seafood sauce that was like a bisque!!!

A choice of lovely handled knives was presented for our choice for the beef course which was a perfectly cooked fillet accompanied by salsify, crosnes(or Chinese artichokes!!), topped with shaved Black Perigord truffles in a Sarawak pepper sauce. Need I say more?

We had some nice breaks and it was a long dinner, but we enjoyed the red wine while we waited for dessert which was another revelation with Sauternes-soaked spongecakes(well, it is Bordeaux!) with apple, icecream and a fruit sauce!

We could not go home without mignardises and these arrived in the form of a marshmallow puff, a coconut thingy and one of the best Gianduja chocolates ever.

We will be back!!

--

Montego Bay's THE BOATHOUSE GRILL is great (1-21-25)

 We drove the 15 minutes up the road to the Boathouse just outside of downtown on the Blue Lagoon section of the Caribbean and were greeted by the ferry boatman who took us across the 20 foot stretch of water to the anchored restaurant; it was akin to crossing the River Styx, but not as ominous. We were a bit worried when they could not find out reservation, but they rectified it quickly when we realize the mistake was partly mine and partly the hotel's concierge as I had asked for Tuesday the 20th and it was Tuesday the 21st! OOPS! They brought us upstairs to the roof to a table for four overlooking the bay and the twinkling lights of the towns west of Montego Bay. It was really beautiful, and the weather was perfect. The prices here were way lower than the hotels as well as the wines were as low as $30US! Swe ordered an Oyster Bat Sauvignon Blanc and a Chilean Frontiera Chardonnay as the food here is SEAfood. We thanked manager Patricia profusely for fitting us in when the place was full and proceeded to order. Leon was very helpful telling us which dishes were spicier and such and we settled in on a Grilled Calamari with Tomato Concasse and Capers in a Nut Brown Butter which was indeed spicier in some places than Leon explained. Will called it an "explosion of excitement in my mouth." The Panko Crusted Lobster Cake with Dijon Mustard Mayo was huge and while not all lobster, had a goodly amount. My Panko Crusted Grilled Garlic Shrimp came with a kalamata Olive, Tomato & Garlic Mayo to dip them in which was superb. 

Main courses were also delicious and full of flavor and spices. Baked Snapper Fillet was Almond Panko Crusted with Roasted Red Pepper Cream, Parmesan Risotto Cake, Dijon Vinaigrette and Veggie Slaw that everyone raved about. The presentation (check out the FB fotos) was also gorgeous. Spicy Peel and Eat Pepper Shrimp with Scotch Bonnet Beurre Blanc that kicked ass was an appetizer that Will had as a main and loved, while Sauteed Leomon Pepper Garlic Shrimp came with brandied Sauce Homard, Classic Parmesan Risotto and Macedoine of Vegetables. My Live Caribbean Spiny Lobster was Split and Grilled with Brandy & White Wine and fab spices and served with Garlic Baguette(two cute miniatures sized about 3 inches long and 1.2 and inch wide!) and Caesar Salad. The Lobster trap is located under a glass floor on the entrance of the boat below and we saw it, but I just told them a 1 to 1-1/2 pound lobster they chose would be fine. It was one of the best lobsters I have ever had in my life, and definitely the best Spiny Lobster!

Dessert was yummy creamy Devon Stour Ice Cream & Vanilla Ice Cream, Banana Cake and my Creme Brulee that was a tad too thick and rich and too sweet served in a deep coffee-like cup with a gooey top that was not brittle.; no prizes there. We all had a ball and really loved the ambiance and setting as well.

Montego Bay's The SUGAR MILL at Half Moon Resort is ravishing (1-20-25)

Our second night here on the island we headed over to The SUGAR MILL which is a beautiful spot with a very ruined sugar mill but great service in an elegant setting across the street from the luxurious Half Moon Resort, where my sister spent her first honeymoon in 1970!

We had fabulous drinks at the bar beforehand with Stephon and our friend Ronnie discovered her new local drink favorite Campari & Ting (a local grapefruit soda). We moved to our table just below the mill and settled in with the huge menus and then our fabulous server Keneisha surprised us with a duck special and we had to rethink our choices. Dwight was a trainee (his last name was Downer!) and he brought delicious homemade breads: white, wheat, spicy, thyme with cornmeal and festive(a slightly sweet cornmeal) along with three dips: avocado, yogurt & onion; beetroot and yogurt; spicy escabeche which we loved.

We ordered a white and red wine (again at exorbitant prices) starting with a Sassoregale 2022 Vermintino from Tuscany and moving on to a delicious Marques de Murrieta 2020 Reserva Rioja.

The food was all beyond delicious and everything was served with perfect timing and no rush. Cassava Crepe came with ackee, pak choi and oven thyme-roasted pumpkin with a roasted cho-cho chutney. The Jamaican salad was a ton of Romaine with Jerk Cashews, Breadfruit cracker, tomatoes and a Garlic-Plantain dressing that would embarrass a good Caesar. The Pimento Wood Smoked Marlin Tartare was out of this world with Hackleback Caviar(I couldn't find it), baby greens and Tomato Salsa and the Crayfish Bisque with Annatto & Seaweed was poured tableside and was absolutely melt in your mouth creamy heaven.

The main courses were just as thrilled with the Lemon Jerk Marinated Chicken Supreme being on the spicy side with Pommery Dijon Mustard, Bhutan Berry(?), Lime Juice, Rice & Peas Risotto. Fried Plantains with Maple Syrup were a side I like but declared to be too undercooked by some. The Soloman's Brochette was a huge show flambeed tableside with aged Rum and the skewer had beef (that was cooked so just past rare and tender!), pork, sausage (Will's fave) fish and lobster (that was as tender as could be).

The Pan Seared Duck Breast Special came with blueberry sauce, jerk potatoes au gratin that were oh so rich and creamy, grilled asparagus and spicey fruit chutney, a dream duck dish indeed.

Guess what...we were pretty stuffed so only one Vegan Chocolate Cake and a scoop of Coconut Ginger Sorbet were the desserts.

The meal was not just a step above the night prior, it was a whole different level, and we hope the food is as good for the coming days.

The Seaview Terrace at Round Hill, Montego Bay, Jamaica is just okay (1-19-25)

 Here at Round Hill in Jamaica there are not alot of dining options as the dining room is the terrace and then some nights, they offer beach BBQs or curry night, but we wanted to dine here on our first night as we were exhausted from the trip.

The four of us settled in and were shocked by the wine prices as everything was over $80...even a bottle that sells for $14 in the USA! Add tax and service charge of 18% to everything and it gets pretty high. We loved the Chardonnay from Turk Winery in Kerschbaum in Austria and also the yummy red blend from Josh Cellars called Josh Legacy which was listed as 2020 but delivered as 2022.

The "Ebanks Farm" Carrot soup was yummy but had more flavor from the Ginger, & Turmeric than the carrots. The "Whitehouse" Seafood Casserole was listed as Shrimp, Crab, Smoked Marlin, Lobster, Coconut Cream, Chives and Pasta and the latter was the major ingredient with a huge glob of cheese on top. It was a filling starter, and Will chose it for his main but his had even less seafood than mine! They took the charge off for him.

The Snapper main with native coconut callaloo, succotash, tomato, okra, corn, fresh herbs and lime came in a tad too dry and the "St. Mary's" Green Plantain Mofongo with cream sauce, akee and Scotch bonnet peppers had a nice kick and was a pretty good veggie dish, but did not get raves.

Dessert was passionfruit sorbet, a kicky Scotch Bonnet Ice Cream and my Honey Thyme Panna Cotta with Brandy Snapp, Yogurt Creme Anglaise and Honey was refreshing.

We shall see what another resort down the coast has to offer this evening.

Arlington's LA COTE d'Or delivers!! (1-7-24)

 We recently saw a friend's post on Facebook about how wonderful La Cote d'Or was and remarked that it was years, actually decades since we last visited this teeny French bistro on the Arlington/Falls Church line, a mere 15 minutes from our home.

We arranged to meet a friend there for dinner last night and needless to say, with the post snow apocalypse, there were two other occupied tables: one couple that left about 30 minutes after we arrived (they were on the early bird special for $30!) and one woman who apparently comes in multiple times each week! We reviewed the menus and there were many wonderful choices for a la carte as well as super fixed-price 3-course menus at $40, $50 and $60 including vegetarian and vegan options! This is indeed a lot of options for such a tiny place. The tables are cozy, but not too close and the atmosphere is warm and homey. Jorge and the servers are friendly and helpful, and Chef Jacques even came out to chat with us. He is a gem, and we were so impressed with ALL the food that we know we will be back.

We heard the early bird couple mention special wine night Tuesday and quickly ordered the $28 bottle of Domaine de las Bastide 2023 Cotes du Rhone, a red blend that goes so well with everything; indeed, we polished off nearly two bottles. The French bread arrived and was warm, crusty and irresistible! I only wish the butter was a tad softer.

We all ordered the French Onion Soup Gratinee that was simply perfect on this frigid wintry night. The Swiss cheese was gooey and browned to perfection and the beef stock was loaded with yummy, caramelized onions.

Calves' Liver is one of my favorites and two of us ordered the Lyonnaise style dish again smothered in caramelized onions and served with potatoes, an adorable potato puff, a fabulous stuffed mushroom and ratatouille.  The Steak Tartare is only available as a main course and when it arrived with the side of Frites, Will was amazed as it must have been a pound of gorgeously seasoned and hashed meat. The meat had a great mustard accent and was really excellent. I only wish it was on the menu as an appetizer!!

Dessert is included in the3-course meals and was delish, but also large portions. The Poires Belle Helene was a special with poached pears in red wine sauce and I loved the Isles Flotantes (Floating Islands) made of light fluffy meringue on a sea of Creme Anglaise. Will ordered is Apple Tarte Tatin to go as he was so full from the tartare!

We felt like we were back in Bordeaux and really loved the kind, welcoming and friendly service as well as the amazing bistro food that La Cote d'Or delivers!

DC's MITA makes me want more (vegan) (12-27-24)

 My first trip to Mita was back in June and I LOVED it. I was shocked that the entire menu was vegan. Chef Miguel will blow you away with his flavors, spices and presentations for a tasting menu that cannot be beat! The wines are also excellent, and I decided I needed to bring our son Sam who is vegetarian back as the three of us head over on Friday night for a multi-course menu that was truly magnificent.

Will ordered the MGM-Mita's Garden Margarita with Mijenta Tequila, Amara's Verde Mezcal, Lou's Herbs Mix, Lime and Cointreau, Sam loved his creamy COQUITA with Coconut Milk, Oat Milk, Cinnamon, Vanilla & Rum, while I adored my LOU's MARTINI of Belvedere 10 Vodka, Manzanilla Sherry, Blanc Vermouth, Giffard Piment and Celery Bitters.

Drinks are fun here, but so is the wine and we started with a Vouvray 2022 made from Chenin Blanc from Domaine Sebastien Brunet that Will called "cream of mineral" with green able tones and lots of minerals in the creamy finish. Our red was one of my favorite Mexican wines, "Gabriel" from Adobe Guadalupe in Baja California. The wine packs a punch at 13.5% alcohol with 50% Cabernet Sauvignon, 30% Malbec and 20% Merlot, and while I love this wine the 2109 vintage perhaps was not as good as the ones I have had before.

The meal started with our extremely handsome server, Harry, brinking over the smoking covered pot called Copal with Tamarind/Mango/Tajin Caramels on top. They had a burst of mango, a slight spice and were more like soft pate a fruits. The wrappers are edible for a fun touch!

We opted for the supplemental Arepas order ($21 for the table) and as I recalled from last time, this is a must. There are 5 types of arepas (all photos on FB): Platano/Potato/Yucca/Corn/Whole Wheat and three dips for them: Guasacaca (a guacamole with cilantro)/Sour Cream (made of Cashew) which is unbelievable)/Chontaduro Butter (made from peach palm). This is fun as there are so many combinations, but I always come back to the savory arepas with the sour cream!

PACHAMAMA is a glass class enclosed with keepsakes given by the staff and on top has the dish which is Yuba Crisp with Balck Bean Mole, Celery Root, Lemon Zest and a nice kick from the Aji Amarillo. One of my favorite courses here (besides the arepas) is the Arracacha, a Venezuelan soup, here made with Fava Beans, Sweet Plantain and has a Dashi Broth(togarashi) poured tableside that has been cooked for 12 hours and is richer than veal stock!; onion ash is slashed across the top. It is a rich dish and very filling, but I managed to slurp up every last drop!

Watermelon Crudo comes with Fermented Carrots, Wild Rice Cracker (in the style of Chicharron), Cilantro Oil is slow cooked watermelon and passion fruit in a quasi-fruity-ceviche with a vegan viva from the Aji Amarillo & Avocado. it is the ideal palate cleanser!!

The "first main: was Masa Churro (Mexico) with Chanterelles, Black Garlic, Pipian Rojo Sauce (a mojo verde) and Mezcal! It was hard to decide which of these "main" dishes was better as they were simply both so magnificent.

The second "main" course is Charred Banana with Pearled Barley, Charred Mitake(menu spelling) Mushrooms, peas, Crispy Shallots, Pea Tendrils, Soffrito Sauce and Lime Juice. If you were not full by this course, something was wrong.

Of course, there is dessert with Po'e Cake from Easter Island with vegan coconut ice cream, Miso Pineapple Mousse, banana, sweet potato and shaved fresh coconut. It is a great "cake" and has so many great flavors to beat.

Botero caramelized avocado treats came to send us home (no photo)!

MITA is magnificent and really tops for vegetarians and vegans in town, but I love it too!

AKE -Table & Vin etais vraiment parfait pour notre dernier nuit ici a Pairs(12-23-24)

 So tomorrow we head back to the USA only for a month or so (can't wait to return to France) and we chose a small bistro on the northeast side of Paris near the Republique that was simply wonderful.

AKE has seating for about 20 plus some seat at the open kitchen bar and has wobbly tables with candles and super ambiance. The menu has about 8 options and are meant to be shared, so we chose two to start and ended up with four all great options.

The wine was a Hautes Cotes de Beaune 2018 Gymnopodie from Domaine de la Roseraie which was a superb aged pinot noir that went with everything. It took our server a while to find the wine in the cave, but she found one bottle numbered 1352 out of 2336 so the production was very small!

We started with the Terrine(all photos on FB) of pork and chicken with pistachio and Armagnac and a fruit infusion like marmalade and the sourdough bread was warm and had a super crunchy crust to boot. Next came Gateau grille, a "cake" made of potato, carrot and Jerusalem artichoke with a super yet simply aioli.

Choux de Bruxelles were grilled Brussels Sprouts with parmesan, fried shallots and citrus (oops grapefruit) and fried anchovies that we loved. The winning dish was the Croquettes de lieu noir or Fish Croquettes made from Saithe(fish) with spinach and leeks with a fabulous to-die-for remoulade(was it apple in the sauce) and radicchio. Our friends back home know how picky we are about crab cakes and these fish croquettes were as pure and simple as the best crabcakes back home.

We finished with a glass of Grenache and some cheese: Comte and Tomme de fleur de Savoie that was so floral and super to give us a take-away flavor from France ending this amazing 7-week journey that seemed to start ages ago in the UK!

Paris' L'OISEAU BLANC get bravos for the service and views and food is superb save for over-saucing (12-22-24)

 For this trip to Paris our Michelin star adventure was to the elegant L'OISEAU BLANC situated atop the Peninsula Hotel. The room is small, quiet and classy with all glass walls facing over the city and a monster-view of the Eiffel Tower. This would have earned it at least one Michelin star alone. The service was perfect indeed with the handsome Antoine and his team always there to accommodate any need, pour any wine and answer any question. That would have garnered a second star for sure. The food was indeed quite delicious and only marred in several dishes by the multitude of sauces that did at times conflict on the plate. That said, the two Michelin stars are well earned and there were many things to praise indeed.

The name comes from the famous plane that attempted to be the first to cross the Atlantic and a replica of this is located in the hotel courtyard hung at the 6th floor where the restaurant is located. Even the bathroom has a deco-inspired plane theme with the faucets looking like plane wings.

The crystal is Riedel, the silver is Sheffield, and the crisp white linens are spotless. White roses were everywhere, and white-frosted miniature Xmas trees were mingled with elaborate wine decanters. The plates had a copy of the Oiseau Blanc plane and blue clouds. As we sat, a huge cart arrived with multiple champagnes to choose from, and Will opted for a JM Seleque Rose while I preferred the yeasty Tarlan 2009 vintage! Riesling glasses were used instead of flutes as the sommelier explained it allows one to smell the wine and the effervescence to improve; I didn't buy it. Sparkling water was Orezza from Corsica which was nice, but not as good as our favorite Badoit. We marveled at the view as the Eiffel Tower put on a light show for us all evening and settled in for our culinary journey. I explained to the team that Will was not eating a lot due to his medication, and they asked the chef if we could do one tasting and one a la carte; et voila, he approved.

A tiered caddy arrived with three amuses (all photos on FB along with views and videos of the Eiffel Tower light show): an okay butternut squash tartelette with cacao, a fabulous puff pastry with herbs that exploded in our mouths and Lobster wrapped in spinach that was a tad to lemony for me. With this came a Kugelhopf (the famous German treat) but here was as fluffy as could be in its miniature form and made with Indian spices, mushroom and Ossiau-Iraty cheese! Sourdough bread with very yellow butter followed which Antoine informed us came from naturally grass-fed cows and ws rich in beta-carotene and hence so yellow! Another amuse bouche arrived in a bowl with snail, bone marrow and turnip bathed in a beef broth with citronella (I thought it awas in candles only) that was quite rich, and one could tell much love went into this small carafe of broth.

We ordered a white and red wine and both were spectacular but are grateful for the sommelieuse's recommendations as the Saint-Aubin 1er Cru "En Remilly" 2022 from Domaine Marc Colin was the most creamy and unctuous white we have had in ages. The Chassagne-Montrachet "Les Chaumes" 2022 from Domain Morey-Coffinet was a tad young and chewy at first but opened up over the time we ate and was ideal with our heavier dishes later in the meal.

My tasting menu began with SHELLFISH consisting of Leeks in seaweed crust, RAZOR CLAMS smoked/grilled/sea urchin and a black garlic cream sauce with oyster leaf and red shiso. Accompanying this in a separate bowl was a poached oyster in leek and bearnaise sauce. The flavors were excellent, and I loved it all, especially the superb use of leeks and the oyster leaf did taste like an oyster!

My second dish and Will's starter was SCALLOPS consisting of a huge scallop mousseline in a crispy buckwheat "crepe" cracker that had bone marrow/matured sorrel & watercress, with a black truffle-meat sauce which was where the sauces did conflict, and the dish was indeed rich. Accompanying it was a superb carpaccio of scallops on a bed of crunchy lentils with caviar!

BLUE LOBSTER was a claw and tail/Carbonade with Fermented Grains/Cabbage in Beer, black truffle and beef crisp in a cappuccino coral with Lobster jus-beer sauce. The sauces were less intense here and worked well, although I am not a beer fan, this was a yummy treat as lobster is always good.

Will's main course was PHEASANT HEN with royal squid, passionfruit, chestnut and black truffle and while I did not taste, he raved about the entire dish. My "main" was Roasted WILD PIDGEON with citrus peel. salsify, clementine and roasted pepper while on the side was a small bowl with WOOD PIDGEON CONFIT in its sauce with chorizo oil. Each bite was a burst of flavors and amazing treat, but we were both starting to really fill up and almost 3 hours had passed!

We were not prepared for what was to follow although we knew the dish was called Speyside Pearl with fresh milk, marinated galangal, sunflower praline and pistachio sap.

The sommelieuse brought Macallan 15 year scotch tableside with a large kind of snifter machine to which she added refined tea and heated it(video on FB). Other ingredients were involved as she poured the concoction in our glasses and we drank it (I prefer straight scotch, but this was novel) and the sweet dish with the above ingredients was served to pair with it and the meringue was made with scotch too, I think. We both loved it.

My final dessert was Crystallized Taha'a Vanilla with Burnt Onion, Soubise, Onion Tuille, foam and caramelized layers but sadly had some licorice in the soubise that I just could not eat. Within minutes another dessert appeared which was the same vanilla but with no licorice or the crispy onion, which I kind of liked, but was a tad weird.

There were mignardises naturally and the three were all yummy:

Vanilla Quinoa Cups, Apple with Lemon Caviar and Mango Pavlova.

We did roll home but truly had a superb time at this lovely location with the great food and the unbelievably superb staff. 

Paris' GLOU is great modern bistro and sustainable to boot (12-21-24)

 We decided to have lunch today a tad later rather than dinner as we head to the new production of Lez Miz here in Paris this evening. GLOU is a small popular modern bistro in Le Marias that at 2pm was still full of locals. We were seated upstairs where the huge windows overlooked the beautiful Picasso Museum across the street and despite being full, we did not feel crowded like the night before. We even had a friend in the dog at the next table who could tell we were dog lovers!

I ordered a glass of white Beaujolais "lievre blanc" 2021 Domaine Jean Max that was loaded with citrus and was great with my first starter (we each ordered two appetizers): Huitres tres speciales de M. Jean-Paul Guernier no, 3 d'Utah Beach which were salty and briny and from the famed Normandy Utah Beach. Will started with a glass of Languedoc red and chose the Tartare de VEAU BASQUE, jaune oeuf, marne au soja which was an amazing tartare of veal with a barely cooked egg and served with grain/cereal seeded crackers. I had the same dish as my second starter, but chose to use the tasty bread instead of the crackers. I had mine with a glass of Loire VDF "Bangarang" red from Domaine Masse 2023 which was about the fruitiest red wine ever, but I loved it.

Will had a plate of Beignets de Pommes de Terres with Tome fraiche and Aoili which were the richest creamiest croquettes that he raved about and praised way more than those of the previous night!

It was a yummy lunch and we opted for coffee as opposed to dessert since tomorrow is our multi-Michelin star multi-course dinner!

Off to Les Miz!

Paris' FERDI is funky, freezing and a bit fun (12-20-24)

 We arrived in Paris for a long weekend before heading back to the states Tuesday and headed around the corner from our hotel to Bistro FERDI which has some big name supporters(I won't say who, just google them) and the Spanish/French tapas menu sounded fun. The place was really drafty and crowded and we never really warmed up the whole time there. We saw that almost everyone was ordering their famous burger, but we would have none of that.

We ordered a bottle of Cotes du Rhone Saint Joseph red from Domaine Courbis 2023 that was nice and warming in the cold. We settled on some starters and tried to warm up in the teeny space with not more than a dozen tables and stuffed animals, model cars, and kitschy decor that really was quite dusty.

Croquettes de Cabrales were made with Asturias blue cheese and they were okay, but Will felt they needed more blue flavor. The Tarama a la Truffe Noir was a dream dish: taramasalata with truffles, need I say more!! Boquerones were also awesome and came in a white wine yuzu marinade with artichoke dip and salmon caviar. Two hits and one not so great.

We were still chilly and getting full, so soup seemed on the bill, and we chose the CHUPE made with chicken, corn, potato, cheese and avocado which was indeed a wonderful hot meal in itself. We squeezed our way back out between the tables trying to figure out why folks would want to dine here in such a cramped setting even with some very good dishes.

L'EMBARCADERE a Bordeaux always gets bravos (12-15-24)

 When in Bordeaux we must always go to our favorite seafood spot, L'Embarcadere, and it was a real treat this time as winter is a time for heavier foods and L'Embarcadere delivered.

We ordered a bottle of red as it was getting chilly out and the Chateau Lafitte Carcasset from Saint-Estephe 2018 was drinking superbly. Will and I both started with the fish soup that was slightly spicy and served with the beautiful rouille (aioli), parmesan and croutons to put on as you liked. Will ordered the same main as last time as the Pace de Morue is always great: a cod fillet cooked in a rich local tomato sauce with the amazing sliced and fried potatoes on the side, although they were a tad more oily this time around as last time they were crunchy as crack! My Pave de saumon et fondue de poireaux was a superbly cooked salmon fillet that was bathed in a rich creamy leek sauce and covered with leeks.

I had the Poire rotie aux epices which was a roasted spiced pear with vanilla ice cream and it was even better than the tarte tatin we head this spring.

Simple dinner with great food in the best seafood bistro in town for sure!

Bordeaux ZEPHIRINE est superbe (12-14-24)

 We had a great meal back in the spring at ZEPHIRINE here in Bordeaux and decided it had to be at the top of our places to return to for a more refined meal while in town for this week. The menu offers a multi-course tasting for 89Euros(all three starters, all three mains and all three desserts!), but you can eat just as heartily for the 69 Euro menu which includes 3 starters for the entire table plus your choice of main and dessert.

The place is small with just over 15 tables or so and has an outdoor area for summer, now occupied by a large Xmas tree. The decor is simple and rustic with white 3-D veggie sculptures on the walls and mirrors (I love the backlit artichoke the most). The wooden tables and chairs could use a cushion, but other than that Bertrand and the whole team in the open kitchen are so welcoming. 

We ordered a bottle of 2020 Savigny-les-Beaunes 1er Cru "Clos de Guettes" from Jadot which we loved but came out so cold it needed 20 minutes to get to room temp! Once it got there it was super with all the fab food we had as Will was doing fish, and I was on the veal side.

We started with the terrine of pork and poultry with Port, herbs and pickles which was so good, we bought a container to take home after dinner! The other two starters came together: POTIMARRON ENCORNET was pumpkin & squid but the former was sliced thin and served firm and not mushy making it a completely different dish than what we are used to in the states. It was served with Black Citron(lemon) and a Marigold Ravigote sauce, parmesan sable, nuts and red curry veloute that was out of this world.  Second was the Farm egg barely cooked with mushrooms, Basque ham & buckwheat mousse in a garlic butter sauce. 

Will chose the Maigre de Ligne or local Drumfish from the nearby Bay of Arcachon grilled a la plancha with a fish sauce, lemon and capers while I adored what was called "faux filet" de Veau or fake filet as it was not the entrecote, but another lesser cut still delicious and served roasted with a magnificent sauce au poivre and roasted chicory, veggies, garlic and caramelized onions and potatoes!!

Will chose the Zephirin a la Clementine Corse (Corsican mandarins) which was like a giant baked donut holes and I chose the Mousse au Chocolat with Salted Caramel Tuille, Egg white Neige (think floating islands) and chocolate crunch.

We left full loving Zephirine even more!

BABEL at Babylonstoren is Farm to Table ON THE FARM in South Africa's wine country (9-11-24)

 Our last night in wine country was in the north of Stellenbosch where the lands are flatter and mountains loom to the east. Babylonstoren (meaning "Tower of Babylon") is a quaint property with simple accommodations in Afrikaans/Dutch style housing some of which is very historic ranging up to villas which are modern and luxurious. We settled into our cottage and then headed off to dinner in the restaurant called BABEL!

There is an outdoor courtyard and indoor seating (we chose that as the rain threatened) and we chose the various menu items we would share and then our mains.

We started with the Babylonstoren Viognier '22/'23 which I had tasted earlier and loved, but Will had skipped the tasting and needed to enjoy this lovely wine. We moved on to a Candide 2024, another one of those fabulous blends (36%Chard/25%Semillon/16.5%Chenin Blanc/12.5%Roussanne/10%Viognier); our only complaint was that the wines did tend to come quite cold and needed a good warm up!

I should explain that Babylonstoren is a working farm with over 800 employees and even a complete water buffalo farm for the purpose of milking the largest herd in Africa!

Our server Stephanie brought us a beautiful plate of Lemon Cucumbers from the farm as well as homemade Rosemary Sourdough with Farm Butter made with honey and dusted with Lavender Powder! Following these Mission Figs and Eve(a type I had never heard of) Figs arrived for us to savor, also from the farm, of course.

The farm is also known for its cow herds and they raise CHIANINA which is an Italian breed, so I had to try the CHIANINA BEEF TARTARE & TANNIE LEONIE's HEN's EGG & Garden Radish. It was a tasty dish indeed with toasted super thin sourdough to scoop up the yummy tartare and gooey raw egg after we broke it atop the super lean beef. We had not had oysters in South Africa so Will tried a dozen of the SALDANHA which are local from the Cape but apparently out of season. They were extremely salty and briny and came with a large citron-like lemon to squeeze on them with a huge cherokee purple heirloom-style tomato also in cheesecloth to squeeze over for tomato water...a novel idea and fun. 

Norman;s Line Fish of the Day was Yellowtail and it was superbly cooked with super-crispy skin and served with "Summer Marrows." the local term for zucchini squash as well as a Smoked Tomato (from the farm) Concasse. We had heard that the local smoked trout was amazing and asked for a taste. Stephanie brought an entire plate which would have covered a 1/2 dozen bagels and we did taste it and adored it, but felt horrible that she brought so much! We ordered the side of Heirloom Moestuin Beetroots with Garden Herb Aioli and again it was a huge portion so we picked at the fabulous local beets and then decided to try the cheese for dessert "From Our Neighbour's Farm" served with Fynbos Honeycomb, Pear Chutney and Crisp lavash. The cheese, alas, came right from the fridge and was so cold it lacked taste. There was a chili brie, a goat, a camembert, "Huegenote" and a barely blue cheese. 

The next morning at breakfast after our tour of the water buffalo farm we were treated to water buffalo butter, yogurt, mozzarella, ricotta and more which was a real treat as well.

The DELAIRE GRAFF RESTAURANT As-SALT-ed with SALT! (12-10-24)

 Our second night at Delaire Graff we chose to dine at the main restaurant, considered one of the finest spots in the region. It is a truly elegant setting with a choice of indoors or outside on the large terrace (which does lack that fabulous sunset view from the night prior). There was a Signature Chef's Tasting Menu which I immediately wanted, but Will was feeling full from the night before and wanted two courses only. After a lot of back and forth between the servers, managers, chef and staff, they finally agreed to do the two different types of menus as we told them just to being Will's starter with one of my earlier courses and his main with mine! Really a simple solution for what they seemed to think was an impossible task!

Since there were two meat mains and several light starters and it had been a warm day in wine country, we took the sommelier's suggestion for a fabulous Oliphant's Bay "The Matriarch" 2019 made from Roussanne, Grenache Blan and Chenin Blanc, another mastery of blending that is done so well in the region. An amuse arrived of a very sweet macaron with brie, fig, pancetta and gooseberry all of which was nice save for the sweetness of the macaron which should have been savory. The gorgeous bread arrived in the form of warm butter rolls with sea salt on top. They were accompanied by delicious red onion chutney, salted butter(no need for the salt with the rolls salted) and a new-to-us biltong dust to sprinkle on the rolls, which just added more salt. 

I have to apologize for some of the Facebook photos as I took them halfway through the course as I forgot to take pictures! Perhaps a result of too much wine tasting during the day! The first course of my menu was a truly magnificent Asparagus with an asparagus/parmesan velouté, crispy kale and shaved Italian white truffles with a tad of basil oil. It was a dreamy and simple dish taken to the greatest heights, alas only to fall later on.

Garden Beetroot Salad was a wonderful dish with lemon creme fraiche and hazelnuts served in a beautiful bowl that alas always had the silverware sliding into the dish! Why do they not figure out these dishes are stupid and make your silverware all messy!

At about this point Will got his starter of SPRINGBOK CARPACCIO with Kei Apple, Potato Sorghum and Nasturtium Pesto. The carpaccio was not thinly sliced meat, but indeed a hacheed tartare and was quite huge. The pesto was nicely spicy but the potatoes which were really shoestring (not sure why they call them sorghum) were unbelievably oversalted. Feeling full, and a tad disappointed, Will cancelled his main course fish dish.

I moved on to a yummy West Coast CRAYFISH with summer cucumber, cream cheese(ther only ingredient that was weird), onion and a superb pea velouté. The cream cheese was a lump in the middle of the velouté with the cucumber as was so out of place and tasted just gross.

Eastern Cape VENISON was my first main with heirloom radish, daikon, coriander and a superb pine nut salsa verde. The meat was cooked to perfection just past rare and crusted magnificently, but alas the crust was so oversalted had to cut it all off to be able to eat the meat! At this point, I mentioned to the staff and manager that everything was so salty and wondered if something was wrong with the chef. They apologized and then brought out y main course of KAROO WAGYU PRIME & TONGUE with tomato sauce that was so salty I just brushed it away, sorghum (popcorn) which I alas cannot eat, seaweed and bordelaise sauce. The tongue was fabulous, and it is always one of my favorite dishes which was a main reason I wanted the tasting menu, but it was just one small piece. There were 4 large pieces of perfectly cooked Wagyu again that was so salty I left 90% of it. The manager asked if I wanted it redone and I just told him to forget it as it was getting late, and we were tired.

I was excited about the "cheese" course of HILTON BLUE CHEESE MACARON with ganache and candied sage, but the macaron was so sweet (like the amuse) that it overpowered the cheese. Dark Chocolate Chip Cookie was a crunchy warm marquise with hazelnut, sushi rice and miso caramel ice cream. It sounds weird, but was yummy and YES, SALTY! I decided to call it quits and just tell them we were very disappointed and all they could do was apologize and not even take a dime off the bill!

The next morning at breakfast we were offered a consolation for the poor meal, a $10 bottle of the Rose that we like. I would have preferred the 950rand($52) refunded (or part of it); incidentally a truly amazing price for a tasting menu of that type!

Delaire Graff's Hōseki is OMG Omakase (12-9-24)

 We left Capetown early Monday to head one hour east to Stellenbosch, the beautiful wine country offering dozens and dozens if not hundreds of wineries to taste and buy from. We were staying two nights at Delaire Graff where we had done a tasting on our previous visit and really loved the wines. The 14 or so lodge accommodations are luxurious, and we loved the setting and the mountain views. We dined at Hoseki the first night (there are several dining options at the winery) which is located in the lodge's reception area just seocnds from our "villa." As we were guests of the winery for dinner, we had no clue what was included but were thrilled to see they had chosen the 6-course Chef's Omakase with paired wines from the winery! We did ask for a substitution on the Wagyu main as we were wagyu-ed out!

On arrival the staff all yelled "Irashamase" very loudly as the Japanese traditional "welcome." and we were seated overlooking the mountains as the sunset blazed through the windows in oranges and red (lots of sunset photos on FB as well as the food!). The tables are all bronze with inlaid wood and small bonsai trees on each one. The chandelier (photo on FB) is a giant flock of birds sculpture that is most impressive and the artwork is amazing. Mr. Graff choses each piece of art for each location on the entire estate and moves them around on each visit, constantly adding to what is the largest private art collection is South Africa!

Caile was our sommelier and she arrived with Sunrise Brut made from Chenin Blanc, Chardonnay and Cab Franc a superb bubbly served in Riedel crystal (as they do in the tasting room as well!!). Kayla, our server, followed with OSHIBORI & OTOSHI (Cherry Blossom & Edamame) was the first course and we first received some tsukumono or Japanese pickles and then came the edamame with a wet towel scented with cherry blossom for finger cleaning. This was followed by a small amuse of Cucumber Maki Roll with Ponzu Gel.

DUCK TSUKUNE was one of our favorite dishes of the evening and was duck foie gras with Hijiki XO sauce, cured egg yolk, Aioli and Gochuchang with fluffy pancakes and Oyster Mushrooms. The barely cooked egg was oozy and gooey and the foie gras almost sausage-like consistency, and the whole dish was just a real revelation. It was served with a Banghoek Chardonnay from Delaire Graff that had a slight acidity to cut the dish's richness.

Sushi consisted of Local Yellowfin, Spanish Bluefin and Norwegian Salmon with ginger, wasabi, shoyu and caviar to top it off! How decadent and served with Coastal Cuvee Sauvignon Blanc 2024 with a huge grapefruit intensity; I would have truly preferred a smooth sake! The Palate Cleanser was Rose Geranium Kakigori (Japanese shaved ice) which was an entire production with the machine rolled tableside and the granita shaved and seasoned with elderflower and yuzu gel!

Cape Wagyu was substituted at our request, and we got the most magnificent BLACK COD with Miso Glaze in Ginger Dashi  served with one of our favorite wines from the estate, 2022 White Reserve a 50-50 blend of Semillon and Sauvignon Blanc which is the same as a Bordeaux Blend but I have to admit the Semillon is not prominent nor slightly sweet as it is here in Bordeaux!

SANCHO (a Japanese mountain pepper) PANNA COTTA came with white chocolate, yuzu, matcha noodles, strawberry sorbet and a strawberry cracker all of which was fun and tasty save for the (yes, again) gummy and sugary matcha the consistency of marzipan, which I also dislike. Cape Vintage 2021 Port was a nice treat as well.

A great first night in wine country!

Capetown's POT LUCK CLUB is cool cuisine (12-7-24)

For our second and final night dining out in Capetown (the third night was at GOLD with the whole cruise group and is not really worthy of a review as it is an entertainment show/dinner venue) was at POT LUCK CLUB. We asked our new friends from the cruise, Regiane & Kevin, to join us and the four of us had a ball.

We had visited TEST KITCHEN on our previous visit and wanted to try this new venue from the same team that was located in the same building but on the top floor with glass windows overlooking Table Mountain. We couldn't see much as our dinner was late after sunset, but the vibe was really amazing in this simple setting with a huge open kitchen at one end with wooden tables and chairs that did get a tad loud at times, but never obtrusive.

The menu was varied and exciting and set up like tapas to be shared, so we chose a bunch and settled back with a bottle of Delaire Graff 2023 Cabernet Franc Rose, the winery we would be staying at the following week. It's a great rose and very inexpensive ($10 at the winery!) and great with spicy foods as well. CEVICHE LECHE de TIGRE was first with Yellowtail being the fish and coming with Pickled Nashi Pear, Quinoa Tabbouleh, toasted Almond Milk and crushed almonds. Our server Sipho was very helpful and made some great suggestions such as the FISH SLIDERS on Steamed Buns made with Hake, a spicy Mojo Dressing (that mad us think of the mojo we had earlier in the tirp in the Canary Islands), Miso Mayo and Pickled red Onions.

THAI LOBSTER SALAD was one of the specials and one of our favorite deishes that we almost ordered a second, but chose to do something different. It had a Papaya Puree and a kicky spicy Red Curry Dressing with fresh coconut shavings.

CHICKEN & SWEETBREADS was a huge portion with actually two separate dishes and came with confit chicken and chicken jus on one side(all photos on FB) and sweetbreads wrapped in pancetta on a hibachi-like grill that we cooked at the table. The sauce was Orange XO with a turnip espuma, butternut squash and pinenuts. OMG!

We had switched to a fabulous red recommended by Sipho Rijks Private Cellar Pinotage 2021 that was so good we had second bottle rather than try a new wine.  It paired brilliantly with another special on the menu, SMOKED WAGYU in Truffle Sauce with Black pepper that also came with a Salsa Verde on the side that was more like chimichurri with mint and I was not a fan, but it was not needed as the truffle sauce rocked!

To even out the meat dish we ordered BROCCOLI PENANG which was made with peanuts and lemongrass for spice in a coconut curry sauce that was also fabulous.

We decided to share three different desserts:

PLC(Pot Luck Club) Sweets was a combination of many items: Macadamia Nougat, Salted Chocolate Caramel, Pear & Tonka Bean Pate de Fruit and Mango & White Chocolate Mochi, the last of which I am now really not a fan having it two nights in a row as it is truly gummy and weird.

PEANUT BUTTER BOMB was a banana mousse with a fabulous honeycomb crunch, banana tuile and Frangelico Sabayon

The cheeses were Ash Goat, Karoo Crumble, Languedoc and Smoked Sanford--all very different and quite wonderful.

We rolled out and headed back to the hotel a tad sad knowing that the next day we would say goodbye to many of the new friends we had made on the cruise.

Capetown's FYN is fabulous (12-6-24)

 Our first night off the ship in Capetown, we headed to FYN (pronounced feen) as in the Fynbos referring to the vegetation unique to South Africa, a Relais et Chateaux gastronomic temple where South African cuisine is fused with some Japanese techniques to create an 11-course blow your mind meal, that took us over 4 hours to consume!

We were greeting by our server Marcus (catch him in the videos on Facebook!) who presented the menu as well as the wine pairing options, wine list and cocktail menu. As it was 630pm, we chose the Smoky Tomato Essence made from Shochu Japanese Vodka with tomato essence, smoked and salty Cape Citrus koshu and served in a cocktail glass with a huge block ice cube emblazoned with FYN and a res shiso leaf. There was a hint of citrus that had a spicy finish that we loved as we perused the menu(US$121) and I decided on the lower priced wine pairing(10 wines for US$95, but I opted for the extra wine for an added $22)! Will chose wines by the glass as we went thru the meal and started with a Stark-Conde Rose 2023.

We both got Tsukemono or Japanese pickles as an amuse with cucumber, broccoli, amazing daikon with gardenia and a fabulous Japanese salted plum the size of an olive(no photo). The first course arrived with TUNA Nigiri, Ishikawa rice, Aged Local Cape Cheese and Cape Rough Skin Lemon on the left, Kombujime Yellowtail cured between sheets of kombu, Sotslaai, and Young Apricots in the center and Lambert's Bay Abalone cooked sous-vide and seared with Miso Wakame and Ponzu dressing(oops no photo again) which for me was paired with both Kagatobi "Gokkan" Junmai Sake, Ishikawa(rice) that could have been a tad colder and Sakkie Mouton Piquepoul Blanc 2024 from Olifantsriver (all wines were from South Africa) on the west coast that was mineral intense and superb with the amazing abalone.

The first photo is of the spectacular Burnt Mushroom Custard (think Mushroom Brulee) with a Hokkaido Milk Bun that was paired with Domaine Des Dieux "Claudia" Brut MCC 2011 from Walker Bay that was a tad too gaseous for me but nice as a cleanser.

The next wine was a Saurwine(not a good name for a winemaker/winery) "Chi Riesling 2024 from Elgin that was just bottled and released and the chi referring to tai chi...it needed food and was ideal with the Peri-Peri Prawns(video on FB) that we cooked the langoustine and Nylon Prawn or Ebi on a small table braii and then dipped in the wonderful sauce that was not too spicy as peri-peri can be.

Will moved on to the De Keir 2022 Grenache Noir from Ceres Plateau (that we passed today!) and I got a Sadie Family "Experimental project" 2023 Alicante Bouschet from Swartland to pair with the Karoo Local Wagyu (that Marcus seared tableside) Temaki with Renosterbos(plant) Nikiri(soy), shiso leaf, Ishikawa rice that was quite sticky and Yakinori to wrap the whole thing with as well as pickled bamboo. Another superb if slightly rich meat with a tad too much marbling for me.

Villiera "Dak Wijn"(meaning dark wine) 2022 was a fortified Chenin Blanc from Stellnebosch akin to sherry that I loved and went with the Seared Chokka (Cape Hope Squid) made into noodle form (with no wheat) in a rich Sesame sauce that Marcus topped with a tad of Madagascar Caviar. 

The Laingsburg Lamb was served with Winelands Artichokes and puree, Wild Garlic & Sorrel Gremolata, Walnut and a Chasu glaze giving it a hit of Michelin-starred BBQ sauce. The Sijnn "Red" Blend 2015 from Malgas was mostly Syrah with Touriga Nacional, Cab and more.

Will moved on to his last wine the "Directions Reserve" 2013 High Road Syrah and I got Brookdale "Sixteen" Field Blend 2023 from Paarl that had Chenin blanc, grenache blanc and Grillo which I loved. These went with the Atlantic Ridge Kingklip with Kapoknos(wild rosemary) tempura, Braiied Bone Broth poured tableside, Coastal Plants, Daikon, Garlic Puree and bonito-like Spekboom flakes.

We both loved the main game choices which were presented at the beginning and Will chose Ostrich while I went for Springbok and we switched halfway to enjoy both whcih were Sancho crusted and served with Ceres Cherries, Shiso & macadamia Nut "pesto," Prenia Leaf(an endangered plant that they grow for consumption) & Buchu (local herb) sauce. The meat was cooked perfectly, and I got two amazing reds to enjoy it with: Rijk's "Reserve" 2019 Pinotage from Tulbagh and Kanonkop 2014 Pinotage from Stellenbosch where we shall be headed this week!

Amasi & Rose Pelargonium Sherbert with Strawberry & Green Tea Jelly with a Mochi Veil that was a tad gummy for me came next with a Delheim :Edelspatz" Botrytis Riesling 2022 also from Stellenbosch and then we opted to take our Wagashi or after dinner treats home in the form of Grenn apple taffey, Rubious tea and caramel crispy & Shoebun of pistachio & sour fig caramel which we enjoyed today!

WHAT A MEAL!