Roberto's in Vienna(VA) is always a revelation!! & this trip was a reunion.(10-14-22)

 We wanted to get together with some dear friends who have always been friends with us and Roberto Donna, who has settled into his now 8-month old venue in Vienna, VA. It took 2 months of planning and several cancellations, but the four of us got together and many that we loved from the old days at Galileo in DC were there to greet us to boot!

We use the word "Dayenu" at Passover seder meaning "it would have been enough" to revel in what G-d did for us when we left Egypt. Friday night's dinner may not have been that religious, but it was indeed a revelation, and at each step we should have really sung "Dayenu" to Chef Roberto and his awesome team.

As soon as we finished hugging and kissing everyone, prosecco appeared at our table and the gorgeous bread arrived. New in the basket was a roll made with cheese that was a savory cheesy version of a cinnamon roll; we knew we needed to get some to take home for breakfast, and we did-DAYENU!

 I was chatting about my plans to take some food/wine/white truffle and more tours to the Dolomites and Piemonte in the fall of 2023 and spotted our fave white from Alto Adige on the menu (I should note we tasted this wine in a zoom wine dinner by Chef Roberto during covid, and he is resuming those soon!):La Manina from Manincor 2020 is a blend of Pinot Bianco, Sauvignon Blanc & Chardonnay that goes with so many dishes. We polished off two bottles, before moving on to a super wonderful "welcome to fall" wine that GM Dmitri suggested, 2014 Campo del Peri Merlot from Tuscany; we all loved it, and it was much less than the wines I was looking at-DAYENU!

Three of us could not resists starting with the Ghiandole, gorgeous veal sweetbreads ever so lightly breaded and served with a Marsala reduction, polenta and polenta foam and rich Chanterelles mushrooms; a memory trip that had us begging for more-DAYNEU. Will had the Octopus with Smoked Potatoes, Tomato Sauce, Radicchio & Arugula that is always a hit.

the pasta here is not to be missed so Will & I decided to split the Pici Cacio e Pepe which is prepared tableside in a huge Pecorino wheel (catch the FB video) and is a divine simple dish with pepper and cheese on Tuscan Pici pasta, thicker or fatter than spaghetti-DAYENU!

We moved on to main courses and the lovely ladies decided to go for the pasta here: Risotto (cause Chef Roberto makes it best!) con Porcini was a monstrous dish of perfectly cooked risotto with mushrooms, porcini foam and Stracchino cheese and Mushroom Fettuccine is its nearby relative smothered with fresh Oregon Chanterelles in a Porcini cram sauce-DAYENU.

Well chose the Guinea Hen Roll made with potato foam, more of those divine Chanterelles and Guinea Hen jus while I adored the Roasted Mulard Duck Breast & Figs with Spinach, Fingerling Potatoes & Carrots in a Vin Cotto Sauce of which I have some for leftovers-DAYENU.

We decided that we should all share one dessert and Will chose the Baked Lemon Ricotta Cake which came as a birthday "treat" with candles as we were betwixt two birthdays at the table-DAYENU!

If this were all not enough, we got take away bags of those amazing peppery grissini which I love with my nightly salads at home-DAYENU.

AND finally, to top it off we had the best server in all Dc that we have known for so many years through so many Roberto dining incarnations--DEBBIE! -DAYENU!!!
We had a superb time reminiscing about the old days with Roberto and his buddies as one of our guests indeed worked for Roberto, and the other for Jean-Louis Palladin. A wealth of foodies at one table in a restaurant where food is indeed revered and a revelation!

Chef Danny Chavez has imbued ART & SOUL(DC) with a new life (10-13-22)

 We have loved going to ART & SOUL (artandsouldc.com) on Capitol Hill for years where it was the creation of Chef Art Smith from Chicago(chef to Oprah), but recently the hotel (now Yotel) was taken over and Chef Danny Sanchez has moved in to helm a totally new menu and design and has created a dining destination for sure.

From the new cocktail list, we tried the Dracarys (Spicy & Dirty) Martini which is named after the fire-breathing dragon on Game of Thrones(Who knew?) and packs a nice spice with the chili & olive infused vodka, dry vermouth, dash of pickle juice and is finished with blue cheese stuffed olives. Autumn in Oax (as in Oaxaca)was another hit with Vida Mezcal, Spiced Pisco Apple Puree, Lime, Cointreau and ancho syrup.

The wine list here is varied, fun and indeed top notch. we started a Barboursville 2020 Viognier Reserve and moved onto a Quinta do Crosto Douro Superior Tinto 2016 which is a superb smooth and full-bodied Portuguese red.

Our server K.C. seemed to anticipate our every need and we got to chat with the new chef, who is a truly generous and sweet guy as he sent us some very nice extra treats:

Houe Made Parker House Rolls come steaming hot and crusted with sea salt and a giant glob of yummy honey butter, while the Hamachi Crudo is seasoned to perfection with Crispy Shallots and dotted with Avocado Mousse but ultimately finished off tableside with a rich divine Horseradish Buttermillk!!  If you like sharing try the Charcuterie Platter with tons of meats, cheeses and pickles that is a step above the others we see around town these days.

We also ordered the Fried Brussels Sprouts and Kimchi starter made with Gochujang Aioli, cilantro and more of those yummy crispy shallots. It's a huge portion easily shared by the whole table (and we were 5). The winning starter for me was the Wagyu Beef Tartare that comes with soft grilled Brioche slices and has a soy marinated egg (think soy-cooked just past raw) to break over the tasty beef which is seasoned with Garlic Puree. I could go back for this tartare (not to mention the crudo) every day.

As we had munched some hor's d'oevres at a reception for Glimmerglass Festival just prior, we knew that we could not finish a whole main course. Will and I really wanted the Fried Chicken, and I suggested we get two orders, so we have leftovers for before we go to the theater Saturday night--GENIUS. This was awesome crunchy fried chicken that was brined prior and then set atop a bed of Creme Fraiche Mashed Potatoes with Swiss Chard and heavenly Chicken Gravy. Other mains that were all gone quite quickly were the Moulard Duck Breast with Root Vegetable Gratin, raisins, pomegranate molasses and duck jus; Pan Seared Scallops with Tri-color Cauliflower, Chili Oil, those Crisy Shallots and Sweet Potato Puree. As we had a vegan guest the pasta dish was re-created without dairy and the gorgeous Homemade Tagliatelle came with Roasted Mushrooms, Butternut Squash and Arugula. every dish was indeed presented perfectly and looked like a work of art.

As if all this was not enough, the chef sent out a bottle of Campo Viejo, Brut, Cava with our delicious desserts: Trio of sorbets: Papaya, Lemon & peach; the yummy Tiramisu Parfait which comes in a glass with Coffee-soaked Lady Fingers, Cocoa, Mascarpone mousse and it topped with crunchy Chocolate pearls. Strawberry Bread Pudding is made with brioche, creme anglaise and vanilla ice cream and finally the decadent Chocolate Ganache Tart has a Shortbread crust with Popcorn Brittle and orange whipped cream. I am not a chocoholic, and because it said popcorn, i avoided the dish. we figured this is not popcorn, but the same as the British cinder toffee, which our two Brits in residence loved!

What meal, what a restaurant and indeed a new destination to keep on your restaurant radar here in DC!

Los Angeles' A.O.C. is always on the charts (10-2-22)

 For our last dinner in LA we headed west to the second incarnation of AOC from Chef Suzanne Goings after enjoying a thrilled matinee of Lucia at the opera. I had been to the AOC West Hollywood location years ago and her restaurants here have always been consistently excellent. The food at AOC Brentwood was just as good, although I have to say that at times the service was a tad slow. The concept here is to share many plates, tapas style, and we decided to order starters first then consider the heavier options and the timing over the entire meal with our dear friends, Raul & Matt, and our son, Sam, was timed perfectly.

The drinks here are fun, and we arrived early to sit at the bar with the excellent bartender, Randy, who customized our Campesino on the less sweet side with Mezcal, Alejandro's Honeydew, Basil and Jalapeno. At the table we started with Etna Bianco from Barone di Villagrande 2019 which was ideal with the many flavors in the dishes and so good, we had a second bottle. Our red was a yummy Crianza from Bodegas Ontanon 2018 in Rioja, Spain.

Our server Chris helped us to navigate the menu and choose which dishes would work best. The Farmer's Plate was the ideal veggie starter for Sam with roasted veggies, muhamarra and chickpea puree(a spicy take on hummus), burrata and grilled toast. They actually charged $1 for an extra piece of toast!! We tried both focaccia on the menu and they were really more like mini pizzas: Milliken's Young Leeks with Point Reyes Cheese, Pea tendrils and Walnuts was nowhere near as fluffy and decadent as my Potato/Leek focaccia, but the Spicy Sopressata with Roasted Tomato, Caper Bagna and Senorio de vaca was a treat. The Stone Fruit salad with Triple Creme cheese, Arugula & Santa Barbara Pistachios was nice, but simple. Clams were cooked in the oven with Sherry, tons of fresh sliced garlic & sherry and were a true treat, especially to mop up the sauce with the grilled bread.

White Bass came with Linda's Greens, Jamon Piperade, Chickpeas & Black Olives and was a divine fish dish, while the Liberty Duck Breast was cooked perfectly with Fennel-Potato Gratin(not too fennel-y) & roasted peach. Sam adored his rich Weiser Farm fingerling Potatoes with creme fraiche & chives while we finished with the Arroz Negro with quid and saffron aioli.

The place filled up quickly and got very noisy and then the a/c went up full blast and we began to freeze. It was hard to get someone to turn it down as I was worried I was going to get sick!

We ordered some yummy desserts to share: Butterscotch Pot au Creme with Creme fraiche came with Salted Cashew cookies and the yummy Beignets were served with Raspberry Jam and Vanilla Ice Cream.

A truly wonderful night to celebrate our anniversary and then take Sam back home to enjoy his new apartment as we head back east today.

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SEOUL SALON in LA's Koreatown is savory and super, but all at once! (9-30-22)

 Our first night here visiting Sam, we headed to a small local place around the corner from his new apartment and it was an excellent choice. SEOUL SALON is one of oh so many Korean options in Koreatown, but we were happy with our choice. The only big problem was that all the food(and tons of it) arrived all at the same time, despite being called appetizers or main courses. Maybe this is the way they do it here, but we learned a lesson for next time....order as you go, one course at a time.

They had a nice crisp dry Gruner Veltliner for the spicy food and then I switched to yummy Korean Soju called Jinro Hanllasan(spelling?). The dumplings here are deep fried with beef and pork and there is a starter called Corn Cheese that is exactly what it is and oh so decadent(photos on FB) and rich and delicious. Sam loved his Stir-fried Kimchi with fried tofu and we were thrilled with the Spicy Rice Cake "Tteokbokki" with fish cake(really fried fish dumplings), cabbage, egg and gochujang. Spicy and heavy, but a wonderfully novel treat. Spicy Pork Bulgogi with cabbage, onion, jalapeno, red pepper and gochujang. Spicy chicken was fried and served with a topping of gooey Mozzarella; is this Korean?

Sam and his friends had plenty of leftovers and we were all full, only regretting the speed of the meal was just way too fast and all at once!

Morocco's KASBAH TAMADOT tempts with culinary delights (9-14-22)

 Our last two nights in Morocco are at the luxurious KASBAH TAMADOT, a magnificent mountain retreat developed by Richard Branson in an old kasbah once owned by a wealthy Italian. The grounds are full of gardens where spices and ingredients used in the kitchen are grown and many ingredients are brought from near and far in Morocco to offer up local cuisine and also a wide array of international dishes which could satisfy anyone, even on a longer stay.

As our meals have been mostly meat in Morocco, we both opted to head in the seafood direction and started with the Seafood Pastry with vegetable and saffron sauce. Moroccans know pastry and this was a huge purse chunk full of all kinds of fish and shellfish that easily could have been a main course. The sauce was divine and leaned French, but with saffron infused retaining its Moroccan flair. Our wine was another Vin Gris (have to shop for wine at the airport tomorrow) called simply Le Gris, Terres Gris La Ferme from Zaer made from Syrah and Tempranillo. It was perfect with the starter and even better with the main. I had the Rolled Fillets of Sole with Creamed Leeks and Spinach in Saffron. Rich, but simple and I yearned for those yummy veggies underneath. Will had the gorgeous Grilled Sea Bream Fillet with peas, celery and EVOO.

Completely full, we skipped dessert and knew we had to order less so we could try the desserts the next night. Cookies and apricots and fruit were in the suite anyway. Be sure to check out all the fotos on FB...today we are off to ARMD, the highest Berber village in the Atlas Mountains for a visit with a local family for lunch!

Casablanca's LE CABESTAN: super seafood cuisine and a view that can't be beat (9-5-22)

 

Our second and final night here in Casablanca found us at the very chic restaurant and club LE CABESTAN located right next to the famous lighthouse overlooking the Atlantic Ocean. We arrived and the place was fairly empty at 7pm, but they insisted we be seated at a table for two right on top of another, albeit empty table. We asked if we could move, but they were adamant. As it happened, that table never had anyone and the one the other side only had one person for barely 20 minutes at one point. Our initial feel that the staff were condescending were washed away as the evening wore on.

We knew this place was for seafood, although the menu seemed to also push steaks. We decided to order a dozen oysters from DAKHLA, a peninsula on Morocco's southwestern most coast, hundreds and hundreds of miles away.  A bottle of Eclipse rose from Meknes 2020 made from Syrah, Grenache and Mourverdre was ideal, dry and divine. The oysters were large, plump and briny and we loved them.

We asked for our menus back and ordered the appetizers, as we figured if we ordered course by course, they would or could not rush us.

The sun set and it was a magnificent moment of amazing colors looking out the windows(fotos on FB). There was also a huge crowded outdoor terrace and the whole wall on that side of the restaurant was open. There was one table with eight or so men smoking huge cigars, so we were glad we were far away.

Will chose the Caramelized Octopus with Hummus and Tapenade which was very nice, but my Truffled Tuna Tartare on avocado with capers, cherry tomatoes and balsamic was a dream. It came with an adorable rocket (arugula) salad sitting atop the tuna in a cylindrical crouton holder. The bread(three rolls) was dry and would win no prizes; one roll I tried tasting like it was several days old!

We switched to a yummy Domaine Jirry 2021 Chardonnay which reminded me of Oregon chards that are very crisp and fruit forward. We just love Moroccan wines and the prices are so reasonable at $25-45 for many of them at restaurants.

We both ordered fish and the mains were excellent with my Crispy Royal Sea Bream(dorado or daurade) with the most fabulous slightly spicy zucchini spaghetti, red peppers, squid and a rustic style sauce vierge on the side. Will chose the Grilled line-caught Sea Bass Niçoise which was another gorgeous piece of fish in a slightly richer sauce. 

we decided to order the Fig Tarte tatin and were devasted when they said they were all gone and settled for a superb Apple Tart with Madagascar Vanilla Ice cream that was indeed superb.

We left very happy and very full and thrilled that the food was so delicious after the slightly off-setting start to the evening.

Casablanca's Brasserie La Tour took us on a local food tour (9-4-22)

 For our first night at the Sofitel Tour Blanche here in Casablanca, Morocco, we had decided to eat the highly regarded Moroccan in the hotel called Atelier Original, but we discovered it had been closed and ended up trying the Brasserie La Tour, basically an breakfast, lunch and dinner spot in the lobby. It was cozy enough and pretty deserted for a Sunday evening, but the manager Fayçal (we would write Faisal) was most welcoming and we were thrilled when he handed us the tiny Moroccan menu so we could skip the fish, steak, chops and burger!

First came a bowl of spiced green olives that were simply addictive and perhaps the best ever anywhere. A bottle of superb local Sauvignon Blanc from Medaillon (from Domaines des Ouled Thaleb Benslimane) had a yummy creaminess to it and we knew that the local wines would be a treat this trip, especially at just around $30-40 a bottle!

We ordered the Selection of cold mezze which was about $15 and was four huge plates that were out of this world. Fettoush salad was cucumber, tomato, onion, green pepper all in a super balsamic dressing and oddly I loved the peppers as they had so much flavor (and no after effects!). My favorite was the beautiful white Labneh, a middle eastern cross between yogurt and sour cream that has a tang and was drizzled with olive oil. The pita-like Lebanese flatbreads were ideal and not thick here, so you did not fear carb overdose. Mouttabal is very similar to baba ghanoush but sometimes may or may not have yogurt in it...we never did find out. The hummus was the fourth plate and was a dream--thick and rich ad drizzled with oil and a hint of paprika. There are fotos on my FB page and you will see that this could have fed four people!!

We moved on to a bottle of Terre Rouges 2020 red from Cotes du Rommani which was a nice red but we could not ascertain the grapes. It paired well with Will's Machaoui, a plate of grilled meats (chicken, beef and ground beef) with fries as well as my delightful Chicken Tagine with Lemon. The tagine, of course, came to the table in the traditional domed clay pot and the meat fell off the bone but was not dry at all due to the beautifully spiced and lemony sauce. Oddly it is served with fries on top here!!

We were stuffed and took the second half of the red bottle to our room to have with some macaroons and treats the hotel had sent up earlier. Off to bed after a first exhausting day!

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Ballston's (Arlington,VA) SALT LINE is super for seafood(8-22-22)

 Last night four of us headed to Ballston to try out the second SALT LINE that has opened in the DC area (first one is in SE near the Stadium) and we had a ball. We were worried about parking near the shopping mall, but there were plenty of street spaces and we only had to plug the meter from 630pm to 8pm as it's free after that!

The menus here are pretty simple but there are so many starter options from the shucked oysters(7 kinds) to seafood platters and more. Will & I split the SEAFOOD CHARCUTERIE which was a great deal and had a ton of options served with grilled bread: Nori-warpped Shrimp & Scallop Terrine, Marinated (in agua chile and cucumber) Mussels, Cold Smoked Salmon, Rockfish & Shrimp Merguez Sausages, some jardiniere(pickled fennel), and Monkfish Liver Pate.  The highlights were the superb yet so simple salmon, the sausages and the pate---DIVINE and rich and creamy. 

Crispy Octopus comes with super spicy fingerling potatoes, zhoug, garlic aioli, pomegranate, almonds and orange and is a big winner while the Smoked Whitefish Salad with Fried Capers and Pickled Onions that comes on Sourdough is a tad tiny yet tasty.

We were lucky enough to have an extra starter sent out and it was one of my favorites(that I would have chosen next) called the NASHVILLE HOT Soft Shell served on grilled bread with Pickled green Tomatoes and a magnificent drizzle of Black Garlic Honey. These battered darlings were cooked to perfection with an amazing crunch and that balsamic drizzle to die for. (fotos on FB).

While I did not taste them there was a Fish House Punch(rum based) and a sweet frozen orange crush drink with alcohol as well. We went right to the wine and while a tad pricey (almost every bottle is over $60) the 2020 Greco di Tuffo from Terradova was a super white that stood up to everything. We moved on to a Cantina del Taburno Falanghina from Sannio in Campania next which was more acidic, a tad more expensive and not as much to our liking, so for the last bottle we moved back to the Greco!

Main courses were all superb, but the Lobster Rools at $35 are a tad chintzy with meat. They come either warm with melted butter or cold dressed with aioli.

My Olive Oil Poached Halibut was sublime with Summer Beans, Oyster Mushrooms, Chili Crisp and a Dashi-Wine broth.

Sides of salads, fries and Broccolini(with crispy garlic and anchovy aioli) were delish as well.

We settled on three desserts and our excellent server Jack brought out a 4th just in case!

The fourth extra was the Black Tea Panna Cotta with Lemon Curd, Strawberry Sorbet, Grilled Peaches and Nilla Wafers. It was light, but easily the best of the bunch.

Almond & Rhubarb Parfait had olive oil cake with almond creme legere, rhubarb compote and a topping of almond and coconut granola. We basically said it was an overly creamy trifle and Jack agreed less cream more fruit would be great.

Ultimate Banana Split has everything from vanilla, chocolate & strawberry ice cream to fudge, caramel, blueberry compote(although we could not find that) and peanuts, while the most insane dessert of all was the

COOKIES & CREAM "Over the Top" milkshake which is scary enough when it appears at almost a foot tall!! Vanilla, Ice cream, Coffee Syrup, Cream Cheese buttercream(!!), Chocolate Espresso Streusel (which is attached to the outside of the glass), Marble pound cake with toasted marshmallow!! The cake itself is piled on top and was a tad on the dry side, but it was a marvel to look at(foto on FB).

Another nice treat was the bowl of dozens of flavors of taffy at the door on the way out--irresistible!! I wanted to stuff my pockets, but refrained.

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DC's MAIZ 64 makes for great meals and a tad too much noise(8-17-22)

 Last night we joined friends at the relatively new(opened last fall) MAIZ 64 and as it was a beautiful evening (to start) we decided to sit outside and the very classy tables with huge umbrellas. 

We ordered their signature drink ALMA DE MAIZ which is a mezcal margarita withe corn and a spicy rim --it as DELISH. There was a choice between the $55 three course restaurant week menu and a la carte, two of us chose the former and it was all delish.

A small bowl of Tomatillo & Eggplant Puree came with crispy blue corn tortillas which we gobbled up with our yummy drinks.

The starter of Fish Pate Tostada had a pate of Cobia that was the texture of hummus but tasted fabulous and had a cucumber relish all on a large blue corn tortilla(FB fotos). The a la carte folks chose the also delish Tuna Tostada made with ponzu, avocado, cucumber, spicy mayo and salsa macha, again on the crispy blue crone tortilla.

I always love Mexican wines which can be rare in the states and Maiz 64 has a small but decent selection. The Trasiego 2020 Seleccion Blanca from Baja is a white blend of 60% Viognier, 25% Arneis and 15% Marsanne making it a most unique blend of Italiand and Rhone varietals! we all loved it. Our red was a simple wine we have had before, the 2020 Santo Tomas red blend of Tempranillo and Cabernet Sauvignon. The Santo Tomas vineyards are known for their excellent reds, but this was a very simple wine and lacked a lot of depth and character we found in their higher end wines.

The main course choice from the $55 menu we had was a superb Short Rib with Panut Mole and roasted Spring onions. The onion bulbs were so large I thought they were Cippolini and the meat melted in your mouth as it shredded apart. Less exciting off the main menu was the Brisket with Cegueza Mole, Cauliflower Puree and Seasonal Vegetables as the meat was a tad chewy and not as beautifully cooked. The whole Dorado "a la Talla" was a butterflied whole fish grilled Acapulco style with dried Chiles Adobo and green salad.

About halfway through the main course the rain began and at first it was light enough and the huge umbrella seemed to protect us. After a while, we needed to move inside, which our server, Jose, made happen very fast. The only problem was the interior was so crowded and noisy we could not hear each other. After the rain stopped, we shuffled back outside where we finished our meal.

The desserts were a nice Flan with fresh berries and Churros.

Jose, who was a gem, brought out some mezcal for us to try and we left full and happy.

It was great to get together with friends we had not seen in years as well!!

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DC's NEW HEIGHTS still soars after 36 super years (7-31-22)

 I first ventured to the then brand new NEW HEIGHTS across the street from the Omni Shoreham back in 1986. I was mightily impressed, and it was always a treat to dine there almost monthly at first under the management of owner Umbi Singh and his super talented staff. Attention to detail never failed from every dish that came out of the kitchen under so many chefs who went on to make a name for themselves to each server who seemed to truly care that we had a great dining experience.  I remember learning about new wineries such as Murphy-Goode and I even remember brining our son Samuel there about 14 years ago where he enjoyed Rabbit Terrine two-ways and Quail, although he still won't forgive me for "making" him eat rabbit.

While New Heights was shuttered for some while recently, Umbi has passed the baton on to a new and brilliantly talented team that keeps the tradition he started burning bright. Indeed, our dinner on Sunday has us taken once again to new heights.

The new triumvirate is made up of Olena Fedorenko and her husband chef Jose Molina who hails from Bolivia, joined by Mark Namdar, all from the Graham Hotel in Georgetown.  Olena welcomed us with warm arms and explained much of the ideas behind the menu including her native Ukranian Borscht (we chose starters that we could more easily share). They have redecorated the beautiful setting perfectly and there is even a corner dedicated to Olena's homeland, Ukraine. 

We were served by Katya or Katarina, who is also from Ukraine and needless to say our concerns and thoughts were of their families as Katya's husband is fighting at home.

She was helpful, a super server and also the sweetest of souls.

We ordered three appetizers to share: Crispy Fried Oysters in Panko with Tartar Sauce and Pickled Cauliflower. The succulent mollusks come on top of a bed of arugula making it almost a side salad! Tempra Beech Mushroom Fries are a must and come with a Moroccan Spice Blend fired to perfection and two dipping sauces: Jalapeno Aioli & Truffle Mayo. Another treat was the Tuna Poke Tacos with Avocado Mash & Sesame Oil, which has three tacos, perfect for the three of us to share! Our wine was a refreshing Albarino from Mila in Riax Bais. Katya apologized that they were out of the Albarino (Bodegas Eidosela) that was on the menu, but came up with the perfect substitute.

we moved on to a yummy Barboursville Merlot 202 that might be young, but is drinking superbly. Our mains might have called for white, but we felt a light red was truly in order.

Free Range Chicken is Mustard & Herb Marinated and comes with a Rosemary Lemon Pepper Puree and Rainbow Bell Peppers. It's a juicy treat if you don't want red meat. Speaking of no red meat, the vegetarian option of Kale & Mushroom Paella with Saffron Rice, Sofrito, Oyster Mushrooms has fried kale on top with a fired egg resting on the whole miracle. My Pan-seared Branzino had crispy skin with Israeli Couscous and a simple sauce with capers. These were amazing dishes and we were so impressed we had to try desserts. Smore's is presented atop a small hibachi to melt the chocolate, cook the marshmallows and assemble the treat. It was fun, but a tad messy as well. Chocolate Pot de Creme was a rich silky version of the treat.

Everything was so perfect that we knew we would be back again soon. Besides after 35+ years how can we not head to New Heights?

The Restaurant at UMI Hotel (southern Iceland)has glacial views and glorious food(7-25-22)

We spent our last two nights at UMI Hotel as it was halfway between the capital and the famous Jokulsarlon Lagoon & Glacier in the extreme southeast, allowing a one day journey to visit these sites along the southern coast as well as to hike to a glacier and zodiac around the lagoon! we were exhausted after leaving at 8am and returning at 7pm and chose to dine in the hotel which was a great choice.

The bar has gorgeous views onto the nearby mountain glaciers and the dining room faces the grassy and black sand beaches on the Atlantic Ocean; what could be more beautiful and relaxing?

The menu was simple, but the choices were all great and I knew the second I saw Minke Whale Tataki with Leek and Wasabi for a starter that I would have to return to that amazing dish so brilliantly prepared in Iceland. Whale tartare is slightly seared and seasoned beautifully to taste like a fishy sirloin and this came with pickled blueberries to boot. it was a dream dish that I know I won't see again for some time.

Will started with the Icelandic Scallops with Sunchoke Puree, Onion Pearls, Black Lumpfish Caviar all in a Champagne Sauce with a Nasturtium on top. it was a beautiful dish and super tasty as well. We were enjoying our well-deserved Dirty Icelandic Vodka Marinis, which were quite good pours I must add. Will chose the Reyka brand and I opted for the herbal Helviti(which we easily found in the duty free the next day, as well as others!!). Bread came with creamy butter topped with chive oil.

For the second night in a row, we chose the same main course, and it was a real winner for our farewell dinner: Confit of Arctic Char was a magnificent fish with Spinach Dumplings (four huge ones) with semi-dry tomatoes(I thought they meant sun-dried, but they were just broiled or grilled), romesco sauce, veloute, herbs and all topped with trout roe. The Icelandic love their fish, and this was the winning fish dish the whole trip for sure. We enjoyed a bottle of Petit Bourgeois white from Henri Bourgeous that was a great and not too expensive choice.

The dish was so rich and huge neither of us could fathom dessert, but we did head back to the bar at about 1030pm after we finished for a glacier view as we drank a glass of yummy Bjork Birch Liqueur! We could not have had a better time and better food than we did in Iceland and look forward to returning again as we fell in love again with the people and the country!

The Manor at Skalakot on the South Coast serves up super stuff (Iceland-7/24,22)

 

We moved about 2 hours southeast of the capital to discover the south coast for the next several days before heading home and stayed at a very wonderful hotel called UMI, but for our first night decided to dine 10 minutes away on a horse farm called Skalakot. The dining room was a tad noisy with one large group at the other end, but other than that, many tables were empty. By now it seemed that all the restaurant servers were from Poland, but we have to give them credit as they were wonderful waiters and totally understood we wanted to relax and dine. At first, we worried since the starters came right away and the wait for the mains was almost 45 minutes, but we were in no rush. 

Speaking of starters, Skalakot gets the prize for the best Lamb Tartare ANYWHERE which was served with a fun crunchy beetroot meringue that was savory, not sweet as well as smoked sour cream, avocado, onion sprouts, beets, carrots, cucumber and mushrooms. The dish was divine and peppery and just melted in your mouth. Will ordered the Mazaika, a local seafood starter made with salmon and cod, seaweed, caviar, shrimp, fresh veggies with pickled onion and crunchy chips. It was a delicate dish and not as filling, but quite worthy. 

Three delicious breads arrived: Leek, Poppy Seed & Smoked Paprika with the latter being the tastiest. Tzatziki was served with the bread as well as delicious local butter.

Will had a Beringer Chardonnay served by the glass, and I started on the bottle of red we ordered, a Francois Martenot Prestige Pinot Noir 2020 that was light to medium and went superbly with our main courses as we both ordered the Fisherman's Stew. This was a huge hearty dish with local Langoustines(large shrimp, aka small lobster), Salmon, Cod, Scallops and Mussels in a beautiful tomato sauce.

Will decided on the ice creams which he said were okay while I had the yummy Cacao tart with milk chocolate ganache & passion fruit sauce. Complimentary glasses of Homemade Rhubarb Liqueur arrived and we left very full and happy that we headed "around the corner" to Skalakot.

Grillmarket in Rekjavik really goes gaga on its tasting menu (7-23-22)

 Our last night in Reykjavik before we headed to the south coast was at the beautiful Grillmarket (or  Grillmarkaðurinn in Icelandic) where grilled meats and fish reign. The restaurant is in a beautiful old building hidden on a small courtyard off one of the main shopping streets and hence a tad difficult to find. We had come across it the day prior. but still had a tad of difficulty finding it again!

There are two levels as well as outdoor dining(not very big in Iceland, even in the summer) and we were taken past the open kitchen and upstairs room to the open bar and downstairs room which was a tad quieter. The music was a tad loud, but we adapted. The menus came and were on super heavy iron clipboards that made them quite difficult to lift, especially with such large menus for food and drink. Will and I quickly agreed the tasting menu was a great deal and confirmed with our charming server Paulina that while we had no clue what was coming, it would not be too meat intense and that the portions were indeed tastings with good pours for the wine. She assured us that she would take care of us and she was spot on; superb service all night.

The tasting here runs 12,900kroner(about $93) and the wines ring in at 9990kr, or abour $73. This is very reasonable for such an expensive country especially where almost any bottle of wine at a restaurant starts at well over $60! Do keep in mind that taxes are included here and no tipping is expected.

Pauline proceeded to pour a glass of Zenato Prosecco Brut and brought out the most magnificent Duck Salad with mozzarella, mandarin, pomegranate and spinach. We had seen the starter version of this at the next table and were very glad that ours was much smaller. The duck was shredded and juicy and all the ingredients were amazingly fresh and the dressing was divine. Always remember that photos are on my FB page.

Pauline arrived early with the next wine, a Santa Cristina 2020 Chardonnay, and it was served with an amazing Smoked Arctic Char with mustardseed, breadcrumbs and sweet mustard. If you like smoked fish, this would be your dream.

we were falling in love with every bite but went nuts for the Tiger Shrimp Tempura with Kimchi dressing that were as tender and juiucy as could be, paired with a Zenato 2018 Lugana Reserva which I had never had (to the best of my memory0>

Just when we thought we could not be impressed any more Paulina presented a dish I had never seen before in my life: a whale tartare with chili threads and onion soya sauce

and poured a Zenato 2018 Alanera made from Corvina grapes, again a wine we do not see too often at home. We had whale in blubber form about 14 years earlier in the Faroe Islands where it is considered a delicacy and we considered it like rubber. I was worried as I took a bite of the dark meat that smelled more like tuna, but tasted more like steak with a hint of fish. We loved it!!!

Grilled Salmon is a signature dish for the fish menu here and it was indeed one of the best salmons ever grilled to perfection, slightly rare and served with bok choy, quinoa mashed potatoes and with a garlic teriyaki sauce. The wine was a repeat of the Lugana, which we could not resist!

When the meat course came we were now in love with the magnificent RIbeye Steak with Creamy Mushrooms, Fried Mushrooms, Shishito Tempura and Mushroom Glaze. The red wine was another Zenato, a 2018 Ripasso Superiore that was drinking as smooth as could be.

Just when we thought dessert was next a rack of lamb appeared with date jam, yogurt sauce and glazed carrots and more Ripasso was poured. This rack was much better than the previous nights, less fat, and not so chewy, but we decided we had enough lamb for the trip.

Dessert wine came in the form of a Zenato 2017 Recioto della Valpolicella which we love and it was served with the most dramatic of desserts presentations(see the video on FB) for the Chocolate Ice Cream, Ginger Blueberry Ice Cream, Chocolate Lava Cake and Donuts(called Love Balls) all side dishes to the Crispy Malaysian Coffee Ice Cream Bombe topped with Hot Caramel sauce poured by Raphael.

We were very glad to take tastes of everything and then waddle home as we had an early departure to head to the glaciers in the south for snowmobiling the next day.

Reykjavik, Iceland's DILL(Michelin-starred) does dinner deliciously (7-22-22)

 Our second night here in the nation' capital was a meal we had planned and re-planned for the last several years!! Ever since DILL won a Michelin star (the first in Iceland), it was on our radar. The concept is to use all local ingredients and also try to remain as sustainable as possible with no waste. The meal was a spectacular journey through Icelandic cuisine and we were nuts about virtually every bite.

The only option here is a tasting menu at 15,900IKS(approx $116US) and there are wine parings for an additional 13,900IKS($102 each). Will decided to add the glass of Olivier Horiot French Champagne "Metisse" for an extra $24 which was nice, but quite an overdose of bubbly for me. Nice Riedel stemware is used, but my only real qualm with the arrangement was that the silverware is placed on the table in a large canister and you take whatever you want. I guess this saves time for the staff setting it out, but there is a lack of glass and one knife was actually dirty!

Four amuses arrive first in the form of (1) a Raw Char Tartlet with Dehydrated Sheep-dung Smoked Trout(!!), (2)Vegetable soup made over 4 days from leftover veggies in the kitchen and smoked and caramelized over 2 days, topped with horseradish cream and wasabi powder, (3) a Pancake with Lamb Tartare(made from filet & hearts that are brined, then smoked0 with Angelica emulsion and pickled roses, dehydrated dung-smoked lamb and fresh watercress, (4)Caramelized Onion cake with pickled carrots and Juniper emulsion, which would have been quite dry save for the emulsion. The flavors were intense and the ingredients obviously insane, but it was a burst of flavors in each dish.

The only item not pictured on my FB photos is the Grilled Blue Mussel from Stykkisholmer (where we had visited 2 days prior on our cruise) with a black garlic puree, blue mussel emulsion, lovage and sea sandwort. This was paired with a To Ol x Saltverk beer called "There goes the seawater pipe" which Will oved, but I opted for the 2020 Rose of Pinot Noir from Pfalzland in Germany. Jasmine, the sommelier and winemaker from Germany did keep our glasses refilled and she was a font of knowledge and a treat as was the entire staff. It seemed that every course was delivered by a different chef from the kitchen which was fun as well.

The bread was from the island of Oland and served with Spruce Butter!

The next pair of dishes were paired with a Riesling from Peter Jakob Kun 2020 Alte Reben in Rheingau which was nice and dry and worked great with the greens.

1)Green Fermented Tomatoes, 4-week Fermented Cabbage, fresh cabbage, Romaine and Tindur cheese were dressed in the most amazing Almond and buttermilk puree that had an awesome flavor and a crunch from some almonds(I intend to try and replicate this). The second dish was Barley Risotto in brown butter with fermented daikon(in cream and butter), Golden Beetroot(in nutmeg & lemon) and salt baked roots with sprouts on top.

Remember that all the photos are on FB!!

Fish was next and the first dish was Cured cod in chive oil (think ceviche, and how odd that they have great fish here in Iceland, but tartare is not so common!) with tomatoes two ways: Slow roasted overnight and marinated in Marigold pickling liquid all covered by a tomato consomme. This was a brilliant tartare that had us wanting more. It was paired with a Siur Alta Orange wine 2021 from Catalonia, Spain(Pinedes) made by Vins Nus. Jasmine said she loved it and wanted us to try it. I was okay with it for the fish, but alone it was a tad funky.

The second fish was a Cod Loin and Jelly with Mushroom Puree, fermented tomato water, pickled green currants, chervil and chervil foam. Again, cod is the star fish here in Iceland and this dish was truly an example of how heightened it can be.

Of course the pother star product of Iceland is lamb, and the next two dishes were examples of that paired with a Valli Unite rosato frizzante(sparkling rose) called "Il Rose & The Beast." we tried it and again, it was on the verge of funky, but was okay with the first Braised Lamb Shank with Salt-baked Rutabagas, burnt bay leaf powder and fresh lemon-thyme leaves. Like the previous night, this shank was a confit style and melted in your mouth. The second lamb dish was a grilled Loin aged 14 days with Compressed lamb lettuce, lamb consomme, black garlic and lovage with Icelandic seaweed. The flavor profiles of this dish were amazing, but again the loin was a tad chewy and in some places the sinew was hard to cut. It was in a bowl and we were both afraid the sauce or meat would fly across the table. I asked the staff if Icelanders like their lamb this way and they said it is very common. They prefer it rare and sinewy and the fatty tradition goes way back. I will stick to the confit versions!! This dish, to me, also demanded red wine and Jasmine immediately complied with a yummy Grenache-Syrah blend called "Fruit Jazz" from Sylvain Bock(an Alsatian winemaker) in Ardeche, France that we loved and asked for refills on--several times.

A  wonderfully refreshing palate cleanser of Rhubarb Sorbet came with wasabi oil and dehydrated wasabi leaf. I should also mention that each dish was a work of art in the presentation department--you need to check out the FB photos.

Desserts started with an homage to Icelandic nature with an Almond/Brown Butter  Rhubarb Cake with preserved rhubarb, chervil stems and pods, pickled roses and burnt cream. I was nuts about this dish and the smoky cream. The second plate was a simpler looking yet super tasty Chocolate & Coffee Roll Cake with Arctic Thyme and Lemon Cream.

Jasmine returned with several after dinner drink options(not included) and we tasted them all before ordering. Will opted for the smooth and herbal Helviti Iceland Vodka while I chose the Bjork Liqueur made from birch that was amazing. We will have to buy these both at duty-free on departure!

There were small treats afterwards in the form of a Chocolate Ganache tart with Pickled Rhubarb and roasted almonds as well as a crunchy taffy of Lemon-Thyme-Vinegar-Caramel-Herbal tea that was yummy, but I am sure did major damage to my teeth.

We were so glad we finally got to Dill and would return in a second as it was an amazing journey through the highest echelons of Icelandic cuisine.

KOPAR in Reykjavik, Iceland--cool cuisine (7-21-22)

 Off our Arctic Expedition cruise, we were eager for some Icelandic local food and chose Kopar located on the waterfront in downtown Reykjavik. It is a two story building with simple yet attractive decor and our server, who said to call him "John" as his name was so long, was very helpful and totally accommodated our needs to relax between courses and really enjoy our first night back on land.

We started with one of their specialty drinks called Euphoria and asked "John" to cut the Elderflower a tad so it was not too sweet. The drink was also made with Icelandic vodka, Blue Curacao and lime and was nice an tart and refreshing. 

Beautiful bread arrived, which was just a plain yet crusty edged white, but we had noticed the breads on the ship were never that great, so being here in Iceland where the bread is all freshly baked is a real treat, especially the black breads! The butter was purplish with dried violets and licorice salt, which when spread on the bread did not give a very strong licorice flavor, so I gobbled it down; Will asked for the plain purple dried violet butter.

Starters were Rock Crab Soup with Shrimp, Spinach & Bean Sprouts which Will said was delicious, but could have used some more chunks of seafood in it. My Langoustine Wantons used local lobster(they call it langoustine as they tend to be smaller than what we are used to) in a crispy fried wonton with cauliflower, pickled onion and a tangy chili mayo for dipping. While the starters were not that large, the mains were quite large.

We ordered a bottle of Muga Reserva 2018 Tempranillo blend from Rioja, Spain and while we realize Iceland is expensive, the alcohol import tax really makes a bottle of wine that runs $50-60 at a DC restaurant, over $80 here!! It was a great choice as we both ordered the local Grilled Rack of Lamb with Slow-cooked lamb shoulder served with Fondant Potato, Apricot-Thyme Demi-Glaze, charred Asparagus and Crispy fried lotus.

I guess the terms for part of the lamb are different here as the "rack" was not a chop, but a slice which was a tad fatty, though beautifully crispy on the top. The shoulder underneath was more like a confit as was superb and tasty. Fondant potato here was a 1/2 large potato just peeled and braised, not exciting but the sauces were so tasty as there was the glaze as well as a nice lamb jus. The asparagus and lotus were a nice touch. We had seen the dessert menu, but we were so stuffed we decided to split one and "John" suggested the Chocolate Trio which was a very nice trio of a gooey Dark Chocolate Fondant Tart, White Chocolate Ice Cream and a Milk Chocolate Mousse. We loved it all and headed back to our hotel after an exhausting day as we had toured 10-hours with a guide all day after disembarking at 730am and needed a good rest.

Tonight--Iceland's Michelin starred DILL!

The Galloping Major at Oddfellows on the Park (near Manchester Airport) starts sublimely and oddly overcooks (7-9-22)

 Our last night in the UK was at the very nice country house of ODDFELLOWS on the PARK in Cheadle, just 10 minutes from Manchester Airport as we had an am flight and wanted to be nearby. The hotel is charming and the rooms modern, comfortable and very neat and clean. 

We headed down to dinner in the Galloping Gourmet not expecting much, and started off with a superb white Terra de Asorei Albarino from Rias Baixas, Spain. The wines here are served in 125ml, 175ml and 250ml carafes which I love and we went for the large size so we could enjoy it before and with our starters. We both chose the King Tiger Prawns that was a superb dish with a huge piece of grilled sourdough bread topped with Smoky Aioli and 5 perfectly poached shrimp and bits of Chorizo that had a nice kick. We were thoroughly impressed, We had made friends with the bartender, Hendrick, earlier in the evening and he came over to help us choose a bottle of red wine and we ended up with a reasonably priced Glenelly 2015 Shiraz from Stellenbosch in South Africa that was nice and smoky and had great depth to pair with our mains as we both ordered the 8 ounce Blackened Spice Beef Burger which came with Blacksticks Blue Cheese(barely enough to even taste), Smoked Bacon, Gem Lettuce, Beef Tomato, a super sauce and Skin-on Fries.

A way overly-mayonnaised Cole Slaw was on the side. The burger was gorgeous, the fries crispy and divine and all could have been forgiven on the mayonnaise had both burgers not been cooked to medium. we specifically asked for medium rare, but it never got through to the kitchen!  We did not want them to recook the burgers, so we sulked, finished them and split a yummy Sea Salt Sticky Toffee Pudding with Vanilla Pod Ice Cream that was a slight recovery from the overcooked burgers. The setting is very nice and we enjoyed the hotel, but it's probably not a place I would go back to, unless I had another early flight out of Manchester.

--

CraftHouse in Leeds: cool setting, cool cuisine, and noise from the bar above!(7-8-22)

 Will & I had a change of plans at the last minute as his sister was a tad tuckered out, so we decided to dine at CraftHouse, a Michelin-starred spot just across the street from the hotel in the middle of downtown. We had no clue where the place was, but after a second figured out there was an elevator (lift) marked CraftHouse that took us 4 stories up to a beautiful rooftop dining destination. The front had an empty bar and a number of folks were sitting just outside the dining room on a large deck area overlooking the city.

We were the only ones in the dining room at first (for a 645pm reservation), but our attentive and handsome(is there something in the water?) server, Nathaniel, showed us the tasting menus and wine list. 

At this point the music was doing a rappy tad loud and we asked Nathaniel if it could be toned down which was no problem.

The menu is 55 pounds(US$65) which is great for a nice 6 course menu for sure, and the paired wines went for 45(US$54), but Nathaniel warned us the pours were measured and there were no refills....we went with two bottles of wine which ultimately gave us several glasses more than the tasting and totaled at less than $80!! A Pedegroso "Tabali" Viognier 2020 from Chile's Limari Valley was a great choice especially with the first two dishes:

-Whipped Smoked Cod's Roe with Yuzu Gel and Shiso(leaf) in a phyllo pastry shaped like a cigar. It was crunchy and fishy and the yuzu had a tad of sweet-tart.

We also liked the BELU (served in "ethical glass" bottles) fizzy water from the UK that was subtle but refreshing.

-Wye Valley (Wales) Asparagus came with Smoked Egg Yolk and Parmesan French toast. A buttermilk dressing was light and crispy capers gave the delicious dish a salty kick.

At this point, we noticed there was conflicting music and it sounded like one source was the thump, thump from the bar fighting the music in the dining room. We asked what was going on as only 4 inside tables were occupied(in total, there were no more than 10 diners!! on a Friday night) and Nathaniel said it was coming from a bar on the roof upstairs (that was apparently jammed). He moved us to the other side of the dining room and my head finally calmed down.

Our second wine was the one actually paired in the tasting with the meat course:

-2016 Blaufrankisch(called Kekfrankos in Hungarian) from Blues Monopole in Kovacs Nimrod in Hungary that had a nose of sweet charcoal vs. burnt blackberry, but a taste that was smooth, medium bodied, and fine with our fish and meat courses that followed:

-Pan Fried Skrei (Norwegian) Cod Loin was beautifully browned and had an amazing crunchy crust and looked like a giant seared scallop(check out all the fotos as always on FB). It came with Roasted Cauliflower gnocchi that were divine as well as a Caramelized Cauliflower Puree, Swiss Chard, Ver jus Grapes and Almond Foam.  This was a winner of a fish dish!

-Hereford Fillet of Beef was tinged with sea salt and came just shy of medium rare, exactly as requested. The Crispy Potato Terrine (Pommes Anna) were super and there was a Confit Roscoff (never heard of that) Onion, Watercress Puree and an accompanying piece of Pastrami Short Rib that was wildly tangy, sour and unique from its brine.

Pickled Mustardseed and a Caramelized Onion Glaze finish off the dish to perfection.

The first dessert was a pre-dessert of Peach Melba Tart, and adorable miniature with Peach Custard, Frozen Raspberry and a Blood Peach Crust. Super refreshing and a big wow, but was followed by the awesome Salted Caramel Tart with Cornflake Ice Cream and Drunken Raisins with a spiced rum. 

This was an amazing meal for an amazing price created by Chef Simon Jewitt, and we will return for sure, but need to sit near the quiet side of the room!!

The IVY in Leeds is always luscious (7-7-22)

 Last year we started a tradition of taking  the family to the IVY in Leeds and we love it. The place is beautiful and the service and food are excellent. We even had the same server as last year, Rogene., who remembered us the second we arrived!

Drinks here are fund and I ordered the Bloodflowers Margarita which has a blood flower in it and is made with Olmeca Altos Plata Tequila, St. Germain Elderflower, blood orange and lime. I was surprised when it came with a sugared rim, but Rogene fixed that real fast. The Mango Coladas were a hit as were an Aperol Spritz and Chocolate Espresso Martini.

Our white wine was a Vermentino 2020 Funtana Liras from Sardinia and we had the same red as last year(different vintage) 2020 Douro Tinto from Quinttado Vallado in Portugal as we loved it so much.

The Ivy makes an awesome Steak Tartare, a beautiful Prawn Cocktail and a wonderful Crispy Duck Salad with 5 spice dressing, toasted cashews, watermelon, bean sprouts and more. Starters always win here.

The Korean Glazed Chicken came with pickled mooli, sesame avocade and jalapeno sauce as well as citrus mayo. The Shepherd's Pie is a beautiful creation of lamb & beef with red wine sauce and cheddar mash on top, while the Chicken Milanese is a brioche-crumbed breast with a fried egg on top and a truffle cream sauce that was divine, even if the chicken was a tad dry. The steak was a 21-day Himalayan salt-aged sirloin and it was fatty and gristly and got sent back -- we were not charged. Again, great service!

Creme Brulee here is excellent with Almond & Blueberry Panna Cotta in a Limoncello Sauce also making a nice impression. The Pedro Ximinez Bodega Alvear "Solera 1927" is a nice dessert wine if you want one--and we do.

We were super happy, save for the steak, and that was rectifying with no issue.

The Ivy will se us back again next year for sure, and there was a real cute waiter who was flirting with us as well, we returned the flirt--always appreciate that.

getting judgemental about JUDGES at Kirklevington (near Yarm, North Yorkshire)-7-6-22

 We have been having wonderful meals here for years at Judges where we stay near Middlesborough visiting family and friends, but last night was simply lackluster. The service was excellent as always and so were the wines. We started with a Verdicchio dei Castelli di Jesi 2020 white from Pontemagno and then moved to a Rupe Secca Nero d'Avola red from Sicily. 

We all started with the Pan seared Scallops with Parma Ham Croute, white wine sauce and micro herbs which was nice and simple. I wanted to keep things light and chose a second starter of Smoked Duck with beetroot puree, herb croute, orange and endive. The duck was quite dry and needed more beetroot puree to save that and the endive was switched out for frisee, which I am none to fond of. Will did worse with the Braised Featherblade, a braised cut of meat (not sure what, but it tasted "used") that was so overcooked it, too, was quite dry and needed more of the beef jus. Dauphinoise potatoes, seasonal vegetables and wild mushroom fricasee were there but in miniature. The Crispy Pork Belly was the only one that passed muster with creamed potatoes, broccoli, celeriac, apple puree and cider jus.

The dessert of Coconut and Lime Panna Cotta with coconut dacquoise was very refreshing, but the plating was nowhere near what we have seen over the many years of dining here. The small plate of mignardises that came with the coffee(at a cost, but they used to be complimentary) were also lackluster.

The cheese tray was delicious with Yorkshire Blue, Maldon Ruddy cheddar and Durham Camembert, but the portions were quite miniscule. 

Praying this was a glitch and that when we return things will improve.

--

The Bay Horse in Hurworth, Durham is brilliant (7-5-22)

 We found our new favorite restaurant last night about 30 minutes from our hotel in Hurworth (Darlington, Durham County) where we joined Will's cousins for an amazing evening what is called pub, but this one is a total fine dining experience.

We arrived and sat in the entry bar which is adorable and I perused the wonderful and large wine list and immediately hit upon a Musita Regie Terre Zibibbo 2020 from Sicily that had citrus, spiciness and was bone dry. Our server Antonio brought the wine and we headed to a small room upstairs which was cozy and delightful. Another party came in, but left complaining of the echo, we loved the room.

Warm breads arrived in the form of a slightly dry tomato-basil brioche and a tasty Hazelnut-Raisin brown muffin. The starters were really magnificently plated (as was everything)  and all were beyond excellent:

-Seared Mackerel, King Prawn mousse wrapped in potato, Grannie Smith's apple gel, English mustard cream and candied beetroot got raves while the

-Summer Butternut Squash Risotto had roasted Merguez sausage, basil pesto and caramelized baby onions

-three of us chose the Whitby white Crab which came with a brown crab parfait(an interesting pate like block that was intensely fishy and tasty), English asparagus, cured egg yolk, plum ketchup, parsley mayonnaise, North Atlantic Octopus and seaweed crisp. Each bite had a different flavor, texture and feeling making this dish a real winner.

We moved onto a 2018 Celeste Crianza from Familia Torres in Ribera del Duero that was nice with all our varied mains as well.

The Slow Cooked Sticky Beef is a cheek cooked for 12 hours and served with Salt beef Croquette, Smoked Bacon Macaroni, Roasted Leek hearts, Leek Puree, Baby Leeks, White Onion ketchup and caramelised white onions and was  hit (well, everything was!).

Pressed Salted Belly Pork had only a tad of fat and came with Mango ketchup, Tenderstem Broccoli, Broccoli Puree, Toasted Almonds, Pomme Dauphine and braised Toulouse sausage. The only complaint was that the skin could have been crispier.

New season loin of Lamb came with Salted Lamb Belly, Fricasee of Broad Beans, Pan fried Polenta, roast Heritage Cherry Tomatoes, Broad Bean relish, Feta, Balsamic Aioli and Madeira Jus.

You may have noticed these dishes are quite elaborate and while magnificently plated and truly tasty, it was hard to decide where to start and finish!

The Coriander & garlic marinated Chicken breast, , roasted chorizo, sweet potato puree, chilli yoghurt, cous cous, charred pak choi, curried apple dressing and curried granola was another surprisingly exciting dish making a gem out of chicken.

My Ballotine of Rabbit Loin, confit Rabbit boudin, truffle aioli, English Garden Peas, pea foam, Doreen's Black Pudding, mushroom ketchup and sauteed Trumpet Mushrooms was one of the best rabbit preparations EVER!!

We were full but Will had to have his traditional Sticky Toffee Pudding which was gloriously prepared here with Grannie Smith Apple Sorbet, Set Yoghurt, Compressed Apple, Apple Puree and Oat Crumble. Even more divine was the Caramelised Rice Pudding which came with a crunchy creme-brulee like topping, Raspberry Ripple & Toasted Almond Ice Cream, Chambord-soaked Frangipane and Raspberry Jelly.

Kudos to our server Antonio, a truly handsome guy to boot, who ran up and down the stairs all night and kept us all super happy. We later found out that the Bay Horse is owned by the same folks who own The Muse in Yarm where we loved our meal the night before. Obviously, they are doing something (well, many things) right!

The Muse in Yarm(North Yorkshire)makes us very happy, again (7-4-22)

 Each time we return to Will's neighborhood, we always look for new and exciting dining spots and several years back we discovered The Muse just minutes from our hotel and it always is a winner. This year we had the same server as last year and Emily remembered us, knew we liked to take a break between courses, and seemed to anticipate our every need. 

One of the signature starters here is the yummy Seafood Pancake with salmon, cod and prawn in a rich thermidor sauce. Two of us had that, one went for the Smoked Salmon Classic with Lemon-dill creme fraiche, bread crisps and a rocket-cornichon salad, while I chose the superb Pea & Tarragon Soup with small bits of potato, broad beans, pea fricasee, peas, pea tendrils and chive oil. Our Xavier Roger 2021 Marsanne-Viognier was the same wine we adored last year.

Our second wine was a Borgo deli Trulli 2020 Primitivo from Puglia that was also a fine find and paired with our very varied main courses. They arrived a tad too fast and Emily apologized profusely saying the kitchen did not heed her request. 

The mains were indeed as varied as possible with a Mediterranean Vegetable Risotto that can be a starter or main, Pan Fried Stone Bass with Olive Tapenade, Tomato Pesto(left off per the guests' request), Roasted Fennel & Olive Salad and sauteed New Potatoes. The Jerk Marinated Cod had a nice spice to it and came with Creamed roasted Sweet Corn, Confit Potatoes, Charred Spring Onion & tender stem Broccoli. My Garlic & Rosemary Char-grilled Chicken came with a tasty Bearnaise Sauce, Pomme Frites(Bearnaise good for them too) and a large tasty Rocket, Shallot & Parmesan Salad. It was nice, but a tad on the simple side and could have used a bit more spice.

Desserts here are yummy, but we decided to split two cheese plates and some chocolate truffles. The cheeses were a wonderful Yorkshire Blue(as it always is), a none too ripe Brie de Meaux(that was not runny at all) and a fabulous Wookey Hall Cheddar. There were some nice dessert wines to choose like a very sweet Red Muscadel from South Africa and a Muscat de Frontignan Chateau Peyrade from France.

We left promising Emily to return next year!