seeking Indian food in Franschoek (South Africa Wine Country), then be sure to make it MARIGOLD(8-13-18)

After driving from CapeTown the just over an hour east to Franschoek and having enjoyed two wonderful wine tastings to start our 3 night stay here, we headed to downtown Franschoek and MARIGOLD, a simple but charming spot on the main street where Indian food shines. Nolundi, our server, said to please call her Lulu, and we started to peruse the huge menus. 

Pappadam of rice and chickpea arrived with mint-coriander sauce as well as beetroot atchar or pickled beets) which actually all combined to taste pretty amazing.

One of us settled on the Thali a set menu of several street food starters, mains and sides; a kind of tasting menu on one giant plate that comes in a vegetarian version as well. Samuel went right for the Aloo Matar Somosas of potato and pea with tamarind chutney for his starter and I ordered a bottle of wine. The DeMorgenzon Maestro White 2015 was a gorgeous 330rand ($23+) from Stellenbosch that was a Rhone blend style of Rousanne, Chardonnay, Chenin Blanc, Vioginier & Grenache Blanc that we all agreed was spectacular and would work well with all the spicy food. Lulu came back to say that if the 5 of us ordered 5 starters and 5 mains, the wine was free. WOW, what a deal! We all settled in and chose:

Aloo Tikki Chole Chaat was a fried potato patty, Bengal gram, chickpea curry sauce with onions, coriander and mint chutney that we all loved as well as the superb Dal Makhani or black whole urad lentils. Lamb Kebabs were spiced perfectly Tandoori style with masala yogurt sauce.

We loved everything but also realized that the wine from the day was getting too much and a glass of red with the mains was in order rather than a bottle. Lulu brought over almost all the reds served by the glass to taste!

Allee Bleue Starlette Pinotage from just around the bend as well as Eikehif Cabernet Sauvignon 2013 were nice but I settled on the Porcupine Ridge 2017 Syrah while Vince chose the Gentle Giant Haut Espoir 2012 Red and Will went for a beer.

The mains were as varied as they come from a truly scrumptious and buttery Butter Chicken of Murg Makhani with creamy onion tomato masala sauce to my Mutton Rogan Josh made from mutton knuckles, Kashmiri chillies, spices and yogurt that fell off the bone and melted in my mouth. Sam loved his Mughlai Vegetable Biryani as well as a Garlic Naan, while we shared a Naan stuffed with chili, coriander, onion and paneer(cheese).

Jeera Matar Polao was a simple but needed side of basmati rice with peas, cumin and coriander.

It was a superb meal and we all left full ready for bed for our next day here in Wine Country loaded with more fun and tastings. Check out my FB page for photos of the meal and the tastings!

FOXCROFT in CapeTown's Constantia District is delightful (8-12-18)

For our last night we ventured about 20+ minutes south of the waterfront to see our friends Jenny & Rhynhardt who work for Giltedge/Frosch Southern Africa and make all our of clients (and us) super happy when travelling here. We chose Foxcroft as it is open on Sundays and also because it is right near the office and their homes. Unfortunately for Samuel the restaurant had just changed its a la carte menu with many veggie options to a set price "Sunday Supper Club" for 375rand (about $25) for 4 courses with few veggie options he was happy with. On the other hand we loved the free extras of Steenberg bubbly, gin and tonic or a Noon Gun IPA Beer to start.

Our server Mike was full of enthusiasm and told Sam the chef would handle him but the starter of Roasted Cauliflower Mousse, Tandoori, Lemon Pickle, Sultana & Naan bread was declared way too weird for him. On the other hand we were delighted with the Grass-fed Beef tartare with Stout Mustard, Wild Garlic, Smoked Egg Yolk Espuma, Pickled Veggies and grilled sourdough which all 6 of us had. We adored the Oldenburg Viognier 2016 from Stellenbosch which we started but moved to a Constantia FIVE 2013 blend produced just blocks away(for the tartare) composed of 29% each Cab Franc & Cab Sauvignon, 20% Merlot and the rest Petit Verdot & Malbec which was divine.

Returning to the white was no issue for the Poached Line Fish or Panga with Charred Corn, Seaweed and Noodles in a slightly spicy Thai broth which almost everyone chose. There were two who went for the Pork Belly & tentacles which came with miso aubergine, peanut & Coriander. I did learn that here tentacles mean squid, not octopus!

Sam had a Sunchoke (without Mushroom) with Crispy onion, grapefruit & soft herbs that was sadly also not a hit.

The mains were superb Free-range duck with Gauteng, Mustard Leaf, Parsnip puree, swiss chard and spiced blood orange jus which came with a confit leg dumpling mixed with duck liver and wrapped in a mustard leaf which was brilliant. Others chose the Slow -cooked Lamb with Waterblommetjie(water lily), smoked tomato, polenta and marjoram, which was also a tender hit. Alas, Sam's Fermented Wheat (without the porcini), with egg yolk, Hugenot and burnt rosemary was better but left him hungry and wanting a simple room service pizza when we got back to the hotel.

Desserts were delish with Warm Hazelnut Cake, Whipped Azelia, nartjie(Satsuma) and celeriac being a top choice for 3. The Rhubarb Financier with Dulcey, yogurt, celery leaf and lime was a perfect pastry and my Belnori Tanglewood was a cheese lover's dream with this soft goat cheese mixed with dates, pickled onion and walnuts.

Check out the FB photos . Before we parted a glass of Stellenbsoch 2016 dessert wine called "Kika" from Miles Mossop was ordered and our guests would not let us leave with out a glass of iced Amarula, the sweet, yet milky South African dessert liqueur.

A fun last night in CapeTown for all but Sam....now onto wine country.

CapeTown's The Test Kitchen will tingle your taste buds for the top food experience in all Africa(8-11-18)

We started planning to go to The Test Kitchen, truly known as the top dining experience in all Africa, over a year ago. Reservations are accepted only on-line for a three month period on the first of the three months prior. For this August, our D-day was June 1, and I was set to wake at 2am EDT to make the booking when a dear friend of mine put me in touch with a genius concierge here in CapeTown who did all the dialing for us. He came through and the five of us headed to the old warehouse that the unassuming restaurant less than 10 minutes away from our hotel on the Waterfront. Our arrival was like a speakeasy(or the Wizard of Oz), where a head appeared through a hole in the door and asked our name before letting us in.  Ushered into "the Dark Room" we were seated on a sofa and chairs with a low table. A map was laid in front of us (FB photos) showing where the chef had journeyed over his life and these destinations would be the sources of our six starters. A cocktail list was provided and we ordered away, not knowing we were allowed to try as many as we liked. They were all exciting and fun from my Papaya and Quince Margarita to my final Lapsang Souchong Old Fashioned.  The Pink Drink-Num Num & Rose was beautiful and came in a non-alcoholic version for those not drinking as did the Apple Crumble. 

The snacks began to arrive with the Billionaire (from Scotland) being proffered in a gold metal box. Porcini mushroom shortbread had truffle jelly, duck liver parfait, truffle infused dark chocolate and gold leaf. The vegetarian version was a Barley Tart with Parmesan, shitaki and radish. Indeed every allergy, dislike or other was completely accommodated with no questions!

Korea was represented with a tray of Baby Organic Vegetables(from a farm near Joburg) with a fermented soybean dip akin to gogujang called Ssamjang. The servers moved so fast, we really did not have one, as a team we can only say they were all terrific. One brought over small flakes of Marmite crumble which she mixed into the dip. While I do not care for Marmite, here the flavors all balanced out and it was barely noticeable. Indeed so many flavors were involved here, it was hard to discern them all.

Japan was a sushi-style tuna with a mustard cream powder(wasabi-powder-like), mustard greens and a piece of cabbage to roll the whole thing up with chopsticks. I managed to loose my chunk of superb grade tuna, but luckily it landed on my drink coaster and was saved! 

Timing was of the essence here and we moved quickly and gobbled everything up as England arrived with a tray of huge Pork Cracklings that were cooked to perfection(crunchy and not greasy or hard) and seasoned with dehydrated Jerusalem Artichoke salt(made with Malden Sea Salt from the UK). A pewter-like tankard partially filled with Guinness Stout was placed next to the tray and our server poured burnt flower foam into it to make a creamy beer-based dip for the yummy delights. 

Tartare is always a highlight, but we moved onto South Africa for Blesbok, one of the great delights of this country's game foods, prepared with chilli dressing on a pumpernickel crisp with beetroot, smoked garlic aioli, truffle red wine puree and parmesan. I adored my ostrich tartare the night before, and both dishes deserve great merit, but this bite(or two) was a revelation.  (Sam got all beetroot in his)

Mauritius moved in next with a Coconut Langoustine on a chick pea crisp with coriander pesto, and creme fraiche. A frozen shellfish & coconut oil was shaved over the dish which was also dressed with turmeric, compressed apple and yuzu jelly.  The non-shellfish folk had a burrata dish similarly prepared without the frozen oil.

Our journey in the "Dark Room" ended in India with Lamb roti(tofu for Sam) which had Masala cured lamb with peanut salsa, compressed cucumber, charred jalapeno, lime labneh topped with dried angel hair chillis. 

We were escorted into the next room, a large bright open space with about 15 tables and some bar seating at the huge open kitchen space as Mariette Sparkling Chardonnay from Stofberg was poured for us all as the ensuing 8 course menu was described. It was hard to absorb everything, but it was clear this was the deal of the century with the price per person at 1800Rand(about $105) and only 750($44)-750($53) rand more for wine parings of various levels. There was also an amazing tea(served chilled) pairing option for $23(400rand) for those who do not drink alcohol, which was extremely thoughtful.

Duck Fat & Roast Potato skin bread arrived with a Roasted Stinging Nettle Oil & Salted Butter, but we tried to refrain from eating the adorable miniature loaves placed before each of us knowing what was ahead.

I asked the server about the large recyclable paper napkins and they explained it was to avoid washing linens due to the water crisis.

Smoked Scallop Sashimi in Mushroom Ponzu with Jerusalem Artichoke and Shaved  Fresh Truffle was first and deliciously light. For the top level wine pairing which we choose a Hokusetsu YK35 Daiginjo Sake was the perfect foil.

"Winter Citrus" was Naartjie(Satsuma) & Dill Snow, King Crab and Trout over a Lime Yogurt Panna Cotta which was revealed with liquid nitrogen and adorned with the most colorful of miniature flower petals. Sam got a similar presentation with Turnip & Kohlrabi! Iona One Man Band White 2016 from Elgin was a delicious blend of Sauvignon Blanc & Semillon. 

TTK Poke Bowl was rice, master stock jelly, kimchi cucumber, sesame and more flower petals with a skewer of perfectly cooked Wild Boar laying atop the small cup-like bowl. The meat was perfection, and the wine was a Spieonkop Riesling 2016 also from Elgin. The tea pairing here was called Genmaicha which was a funky flavored tea reminiscent of the detested orange wine!

More tartare arrived in the form of Smoked Beef with Red Wine Onion Dressing, Frozen Celery Leaf Pesto, Horseradish Foam and Yorkshire Tuiles, the name of which was the brunt of several "tree" jokes. The tuiles it turned out was a deconstructed Yorkshire pudding crisp like flatbread (for those, who don't know Yorkshire Pudding think popover). The wine was a crisp Jean Roikap Provincial Rose 2016 from nearby Franschoek, where we head tomorrow for three days in wine country! Sam got a cauliflower and parmesan tartare substitute which incidentally had the same smoky aromas and flavours that ours did!

The next course offered a choice and since we were two couples we chose to each order one and switch halfway. In the amazing 3-3/4 hour long meal, these were the only two courses that did not totally blow me away or impress to no end as indeed every other bite all night did. Market Fish was a local Red Roman (from the Indian Ocean) with Black Forest Ham & Fish Bone Extraction, Walnut Cream, Anchovy Puree and a braised Octopus Tentacle as well. It arrived with a delicious Mulderbosch 2009 Chardonnay which was showing its age beautifully. The other choice was the Pig Head Salad with Pork Pie consisting of Confit of Pig Jowl with Red Cabbage, Blue Cheese and Celeriac Crepe. The Paul Cluver Seven Flags Pinot Noir 2013 also from Elgin was quite dry and unlike our Oregon Pinots did not exhibit huge forward fruits and was much drier, but was delicious nonetheless.

Our main main was Springbok with Beetroot, Bone Marrow, Hazelnut, Curd & Cacao Nibs as well as Duck Liver, Dukka Crumbs and crunchy Fried Beetroot slices(like the Terra chips we get at home, but tiny). Boekenhoutskloof Cabernet Sauvignon 2004 also from Franschoek was a wonderful full bodied ready to drink Cab that was simply brilliant.

Pear Trifle was a pre-dessert with Bourbon Ice Cream with Creme fraiche, Victoria Sponge(cake), Poached Pear and Gels with coffee beans followed by the "TTK Banana Split" composed of Banana Jam, Coffee Sherbert, almond chocolate ganache over a banana cocoa nib cake with banana ice cream and pistachio crumb.

A yummy Klein Constantia 2011 Vin de Constance was sweet, yet not super viscous and had acidity to it akin to a Sauternes.

As if this were not enough a plate of freeze dried raspberries, rhubarb gummy bears, black currant gummy bears, custard shortbread with rhubarb jelly and blood orange ganache and indigenous bachu-herbs----PLEASE don't ask.

It was not only tons of fun and one of the best dining experiences ever, it was indeed quality ingredients that had our taste buds bursting over and over with each and every mouthful.

Oh what a night.

The staff here all work together as a team and when we asked for a 15minute break before the Springbok, no questions were asked; everyone did an amazing job, but it was Louise we remember for her kindness and patience while I wrote everything down....and am still having trouble sorting it out here.

CapeTown's AUBERGINE is elegance and awesome all at once (8-10-11)

Our first full day in CapeTown had our fear friends Vice & Steve joining us from DC and we chose Aubergine, an adorable little spot where Chef Harald Bresselschmidt reigns and has a most superb staff assisting him to make your dining experience the smoothest ever. The décor is simple and elegant and we felt even more truly welcome when the chef came out to greet us. 

We spoke to Rolf, the sommelier about our likes and he was genuinely excited to help us find the right wines. He suggested a Cinsault from Leeuwenkuil 2016 in the Swartland which he said would be a light red to start with and we were all amazed at the quality and flavor of this wine which came out to about $15 for the bottle!! We moved on to a truly amazing and full bodied Shiraz 2012 from Mullineux where we shall actually be staying in Franschoek this coming week!

The fun started with an amuse of Orange & Carrot Soup with  Toasted Pumpkin Seeds & Pumpkin Oil that I think would have chosen as a starter if he could. Again the bread was a hit with multiple refills of a white and grain, the latter apparently having been made by the same person for 20 years there!

Sam opened with a Burrata and went on to a Roasted Cauliflower & White Truffle Risotto, by passing the option for a vegetarian tasting menu. We all wanted to try many things, but settled on the 3 course menus.

Salmon Trout Delice had baby cos lettuce with avocado and yoghurt dressing and was cooked so rarely it was divine. The big hit for Will and me was the spectacular and flavorful Tartare of Ostrich Fillet with broad bean shoot, creme fraiche, sourdough croutons and bibb lettuce. Ostrich is great at home, but tartare is extremely rare and here with so many farms, the meat can be easily served freshly making it the truly tenderest of meat tartares there can be.

The Line Fish Medallion was a local Gurnard Fish served with Stinging Nettle Sauce, a Potato-Aubergine Fondue, Capers and White Anchovy Aroma, a fish lover's delight full of flavor that could easily stand up to the big red Shiraz. Oriental Style Duck Leg came with rice noodles, pok-choi(what we call bok-choy), cashew nuts and soy egg(which I never did find out what that was). I was in heaven when Will mentioned they had tongue as a main course, and I went gaga over the Wagyu Beef Tongue with a light Horseradish Foam, Bohemian Bread Dumplings and Romanesco Cauliflower. It was easily the most tender and delicious tongue I have ever had, and I was sure to tell the chef afterwards on our departure.

Desserts were huge winners here as well with many choices such as Coconut Composition with Gooseberries, Matcha Syrup and Coconut-Yoghurt Sorbet as well as the Chocolate Fondant with Honey Comb, Glazed Mandarin oranges and Brown Butter Ice Cream. There was also a Chef's Surprise loaded with many different items. 

I wanted to try the cheese plate, but chose a winning dessert that offered both: Crispy Phyllo & Blue Cheese Pear with Rosemary Caramel & Pear-Riesling Sorbet. The cheese was superb and crumbled over the pear and rather than being wrapped in phyllo, the layers were roofed over the dish to make more crunch! Rolf procured a Joostenberg 2015 Late Harvest Chenin Blanc Noble as our first and excellent dessert wine of this trip and I know we will have more as the South Africans make a wondrous treat of their sweet dessert wines.

Truly a memorable meal with a truly amazing team at Aubergine and made even better with our friends now joining us for the next 2-1/2 weeks.

first night in CapeTown, South Africa takes us soaring at The Silo's Granary Cafe (8-9-18)

I wanted to do a site inspection at CapeTown's newest, chicest and most expensive hotel, The Silo, so we arranged to have dinner afterward at their Granary Café located on the lobby level of the 6th floor of what used to be a grain silo on the harbor here. The two story floor to ceiling windows gave us a glorious sunset view over Table Mountain as we dined on copper tables with napkins almost big enough to cover the table itself. The service was excellent from our Zimbabwean waiter, Coetzee, and we had some amazing bites beforehand in the bar as well as several glasses of different South African wines.

Here we ordered a bottle of Radford Dale "Black Rock" 2014 from Pederberg in the Swartland region. It was an amazing blend of Syrah, Carignan, Cinsault, Grenache and Viognier that was so Rhone, yet so South African. The wines in the bar and restaurant are all served in Riedel crystal and are really given loving treatment as one of the shining stars of this country, which we intend to enjoy nightly! 

Warm bread appeared in the form of lavash with chilli flakes, rolls and baguettes that were toasty warm French epis and accompanied by a mushroom butter, an olive tapenade and a cream cheese and butter mixture that tasted more like  a slightly sour butter. It was all a treat and of course we asked for more.

Will started with the Tuna Tartare with Beetroot, Avocado and Horseradish which as always he said was good, but not as good as mine made at home. I had four delicious Knysna Oysters with a light mignonette, caviar ad champagne froth, the perfect light start to a meal that got very heavy. Samuel loved his Cauliflower Tartare with Pistachio Dukka, Smoked Cheddar and Raisin Gel. We thought it could not get any better.

For the mains Sam chose the Cauliflower and Chestnut Gnocchi with Sage & Beurre Noisette that he adored, especially after his last pasta meal in the UK that was so rich he could not eat it. Will tried his first ever Springbok (the small local antelope which is the national symbol) in the form of a Shank with Creamed Potatoes, Heirloom Vegetables and Braising Jus. I think he might give up Osso Buco for this!

My Cape Seafood Curry was also quite rich but deliciously amazing as I love the spice in the Cape Malay cuisine. There were mussels, prawns, calamari, local red drum(bass) fish and more in a rich curry sauce with two side seasoning sauces of Green Banana Sambal and Lemon Atchar which was simply a preserved lemon sauce that was out of this world. I went back and forth between the two and also used them to season the delicious rice which Coetzee suggested would complement the richness of the dish (he was right).

One Apple Terrine served us all for dessert with Calvados, Sultana Puree and Burnt Toffee Ice Cream which I was not crazy about as it had a somewhat marzipan taste, I called it Quasi-pan. We headed home to bed after our first exhausting day of nothing but unpacking, shopping, walking around and a site inspection culminating in a brilliant evening.