Thursday, May 28, 2015

The stars are very expensive at Stars restaurant at the Inn At Perry Cabin in St. Michael's, MD (5-26-15)by Will Stevenson

This is Alan's husband, Will. I have been lucky enough to spend a couple of days in St Michael's in Maryland and have been eating up a storm. I will be reviewing 2 restaurants for you during this time. Here is the first one.
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When I first arrived at the restaurant I was sat at a window table which is what I had requested in my reservation. The view of the bay is lovely and very calming. Sadly the prices on the menu were not so calming. I opted for the 5 course tasting menu (with accompanying wines) which looked delicious. I am not a big fan of scallops, which was one of the courses but I figured I would give it a go. My server, Terry was superb. He told me that they had a special of soft shell crabs. I explained to him that I loved soft shells but I really wanted the tasting menu. As if reading my mind, he asked if I would still like to do the tasting menu, but substitute that scallop for the soft shells. Hooooray. I noticed that he always called me by my name, not sir, which I liked a lot. "Sir" was my father, lol. 
     First thing to come was a refreshing vodka and tonic and some cheese bread. The bread was rather dry, but I opted out of adding butter to it. The amuse was roasted cantaloupe and cashews in a balsamic vinaigrette. It was served on a deep spoon that was very awkward to use. I felt like a dog trying to lap it up with my tongue. In the end I gave in and used my fork. It was a tasty little morsel and a good start. 
       Next came Fried Green Tomato And Crab Salad. This was very refreshing except for the fact that both the salad (in a mayonnaise) and the remoulade were very creamy, so were a little greasy on the tongue. The great thing was that the Sparkling Rose, Jansz from Tasmania washed it down beautifully with it's fresh but tart dried strawberry taste.
       Next up was the Soft Shell Crab in a mustard sauce, with grits and french beans. The crab was small, juicy and perfectly tasty as were the french beans. The cheddar grits were a bit heavy, so I only ate half of them. This came with a Kerner, Abbaziadi Novacella from Italy. It was my least favorite wine of the evening. I have very strange taste descriptions when it comes to wine. To me it tasted like a very basic table white with that wet cardboard taste. 
         Course number 3 was, Goat Cheese Canelloni, with wilted spinach, toasted almonds and brown butter. This yummy dish made you crave for the Fall. So warm and cozy tasting (if there is such a thing). The brown butter was melt in your mouth. As a treat, Terry brought me an extra wine to try with the listed wine, but the second I saw it was Semillion I said, thanks but no thanks. The wine with this course was a Vincent Delaporte, Sancerre. It was heavy on the citrus but worked very well with the dish. Probably my favorite pairing of the night.
    Next was the Steak Diane with smashed truffled mashed potatoes, and braised kalettes. The steak itself was perfect tasting size (it looked like a Salisbury Steak, lol). It was tender and perfectly cooked. Potatoes were to die for as were the kalettes (still not sure what they were, but who cares). The gravy was so delicious that I mopped it up with my last bit of cheese bread. It all came with a Chateau Montelena Cab...all I can say about that is, zzzzzzzzzzzzzzzz. 
       Last up was the Chocolate Decadence with a bijou coulis. It was certainly decadent and thank heavens it was small. Very rich, but very yummy. It was paired with Graham's Six Grapes dessert wine, which worked nicely with it. Afterward I was given a few chocolate treats and then I was on my way to bed. Very full !! 
        The cost of the meal was $130. I would expect this price from a Michelin starred restaurant, but not here. I did give Terry a hefty tip as he had been awesome. Next up tomorrow (now tonight) is 208 Talbot. Don't think I will eat as much there, lol.

Saturday, May 09, 2015

eat your heart out at EATALY in NYC...or opt for oysters at PJ CLARKE's (5-5-15)

I'm in NYC for a couple of days and not really eating, but stopped at Mario Batali's EATALY (200 5th Ave at 23rd St) emporia. You have to choose if you want meat, cheese, fish or what and I went for pizza.pasta at Le Cucine d'Eataly and wolfed down an awesome cooked Prosciutto Cotto & Ramp "salad" and then a Pizza Capricciosa laden with mozzarella, tomato, olives, artichokes and mushrooms. A glass of Morello di Scansano "I Perizzi" 2013 from La Mozza which was full bodied and tasty.

I wanted cappuccino and found it in another are and it was supreme...



After the opera we stopped across the street in the Empire Hotel's PJ Clarkes where I enjoyed a Jalapeno Cucumber Margarita and a dozen superb oysters:

Naked Cowboy from NY..smallish but yummy

plump Saddle Rocks from Conn.

super salty Fanny Bay from BC

Neptune's Choice from Wash state

and the elegant Shabumi from Wash and awesome Kusshi from BC

yum....

Ft. Worth's REATA ropes you in and fills you up (5-3-15)

After the opera in Ft. Worth on Sunday, four of us headed to REATA, which I have always adored, but the food is so big and so heavy, that it is not a great pre-opera dining spot. Luckily there was only a Sunday matinee and we all some free evening time to be with friends.
We gobbled up the amazing homemade biscuits with pecans and shmeared them with the pop in your mouth spicy chili butter.....
We shared two appetizers which were enough to feed five people:
Tenderloin Tamales with Pecan Mash and a superb salsa
and Jalapeno & Cheese Elk Sausages which came with grits.
A creamy rich Becker Vineyards 2013 Viognier from Texas was quite impressive for all of us, even the Texans. I told our server Jodi that if it was bad, I was not going to drink it, but she seemed quite confident, and rightly so. For the red we were considering a huge Spanish Priotat, but the sommelier came over and suggested an awesome 1999 Faustino I Gran Reserva Rioja which totally blew us all away and fits so well with these huge dishes:
Carne Asada & Enchilada--probably the best anywhere.
A simple lettuce wedge for one of us that was bigger than my head and my
Chili Dusted Smoked Texas Quail with Chimichurri Drizzle, Jalapeno Cheddar Grits and Flash Fried Spinach which was bit too greasy..the only fault all night.
We couldn't even think of dessert, but I ordered a Cherry Vodka Limeade that was so sour it was really vile...we all tasted it and giggled before we rolled home.


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Sunday, May 03, 2015

bring me back for BIRD CAFE in fantastic Ft. Worth (5-2-15)

I am back in Ft. Worth, Texas again for my almost annual jaunt here for the superb Ft. Worth Opera Festival (this year Dog Days, Hamlet, Traviata and workshops on 8 new short operas) and since I loved the new Bird Café so much last year I returned again to the adorable spot just across the street from Bass Hall (opera house).  This time I was escorted upstairs on arrival to the quieter 2nd floor, called the Rookery, where I was the only person at 540pm, but it filled up within an hour. I had not noticed the bird pictures and paintings on the walls last year and now had a huge one over my table of an adorable scarecrow, with a dead crow hanging from it. The Indian music was nice and later it turned to a Caribbean lilt (with bird sounds). The floor had several Eastern carpets as well as a large fireplace at one end and long narrow windows giving a very airy and light feel.
I perused the menu of small plates, none of which is small, and decided on 3 choices. My server Nick guided me first to the Bird Green Salad which is a wondrous mix of greens, avocado, broccoli, pistachios, sunflower seed and sprouts and feta cheese with a superb Balsamic Tarragon dressing. I enjoyed a split of Le Grande Courtage Brut Rose sparkling from Nuit St. Georges in Burgundy which was dry and refreshing and lasted through my next course, the awesome Texas Vintage Steak Tartare. I'm not sure what vintage it was, but the delicious meat mixed with mustard, capers, shallots and seasonings sat on several pieces of slightly toasted pumpernickel bread (with raisins, which I did not care for with the meat) and had a gorgeous raw quail egg on top just cracked open at the very top, so the egg oozed out when you turned it over onto the meat. Fried Crispy Shallots were a superb crispy touch on top as well.
I have only one thing (other than the raisins in the bread) that I dislike here and it is the large white paper sheets on the table instead of cloths; I would rather just have the table top.
For my main course I ordered a superb glass of Aviary Chardonnay 2012 from Napa that had gorgeous legs in the large Spiegelau crystal glass, but was served way too cold to enjoy all the flavors. I warmed it up in my hands and it was the ideal temperature when my Crisp Sweetbreads arrived with Tennessee Sorghum and Fire Glazed Cider. These  two sauces were most novel and the antithesis of each other on opposite sides of the row of crunchy crispy perfectly battered and fried sweetbreads. The glaze was slightly sweet and honey-like while the sorghum was spicy and really just the right touch to the awesome little glands tender as could be and lightly sprinkled with some sea salt (which is used well in most of the dishes here, witness the tartare).
I skipped dessert as I remembered it was not too good the year before, and enjoyed a huge pot of their superb French press coffee before heading across the street to the opera. I love coming to Ft. Worth for the opera, to eat and always to bump into so many friends.

Tuesday, April 28, 2015

Super service at SUR LA PLACE not to mention the cookin' cuisine (4-26-15)

My family often goes to our neighborhood spot SUR LA PLACE on MacArthur Blvd in the Palisades, when I head out of town for the weekend or such, but this past Sunday we went with friends and had a truly memorable and wonderful time as always.
On Sunday-Thursday they also have selected wines by the bottle and glass for 1/2 price so we got an awesome NORTON 2012 Reserva Malbec from Mendoza for just $17.00!! Who can beat that?
Samuel has become enamored of their Creamy Potato & Leek Soup with Crispy Bacon, and who wouldn't love this creamy concoction that oozes with flavor. Will tried the Wild Mushroom Ragout starter which is served with Grilled Garlic Toast and has added flavor as it too includes sautéed leeks. I went light with the Hearts of Palm Salad with Baby Spinach, Asparagus, Sliced Apples and a Citrus Vinaigrette.
For main courses Samuel always orders the Steak Frites and gobbles it up with the tasty Béarnaise Sauce (when served his steak the sauce was missing, and he gave us this look, but it showed up seconds later). Speaking of service it is as friendly as it can get here and our server Tula is always a gem, as is the entire staff. Any request can be made as was with our gluten-free friend who asked for her Mushroom Ragout without the toast and substitutions of Haricots Verts for Wilted Spinach on her tasty Rack of Lamb with Pomme Gratin a Red Wine reduction. Her son chose the Merguez Sausage & Frites as well and while I always want to enjoy their multitude of sausage options, I inadvertently end up ordering Moules/Frites. Sunday I chose the SNOB which is with Celery, Onion, Herbs, Lobster Bisque, Garlic & Brandy. The bisque is not too thick, yet easy to enjoy by the spoonful before, during and after eating the tasty kilo of mussels and crunchy fries. Sur La Place now offers fixed price meals as well with courses running $34 if you choose a meat or fish entrée and $30 if mussels. Will opted for POP-EYE which has the always present base of Celery, Onion & Herbs, here with Spinach, Bacon, Cream & Parmesan Cheese added.
We were all so stuffed that we couldn't even think of dessert, so Tila said that since the price of the fixed price with a starter was cheaper anyway, next time we could all have free desserts or a free glass of wine. What a deal! So now we have to go back sooner than later and I think Will & Sam are headed there when I head out of town next anyway!

Sunday, April 26, 2015

If you head to Philly, make sure you find ABE FISHER's (4-24-15)

If you are a Facebook friend of mine, you will have seen pictures from the other night of the kitchen and several of the dishes I had at ABE FISHER's in Philadelphia.

It is owned by Michael Solomonov, the now-famous Israeli chef of Zahav, but offers a completely different style of modernized "Jewish" cuisine and is run by Chef Yehuda Sichel, who also hails from Israel.

As I arrived, I was asked if I would like to sit at one of the two seats at the kitchen counter which allowed me to see almost all of the final prep that went on before dishes were served and to chat extensively with the servers as the came to the window next to me; it was a ton of fun. I was greeted by General Manager, Eilon Gigi and then met one of my servers, Tehila; I was beginning to think this was an Israeli invasion, but a good one!

The menu consists of three columns called 1, 2, & 3 each with 5 plates and priced at $10 each, $12 each and 414 each respectively in each column. There is an option for a fixed price meal of $39 with a choice of one from each column plus dessert and this is an awesome deal for sure. All the wines are priced at $12/glass or $50/bottle. The décor is dark leather, tile floors and a big busy bar, and my only real complaint was that as the crowd grew, the noise grew. It was like a combo between a hot bar spot and deli.

It was almost impossible to decide which items to choose from each column, but I was so lucky that I kept receiving tastes of the items I did not order. As soon as I had chosen, Sara arrived with a large cigar box in hand and opened it to reveal warm savory rugelach. I chose one of each and while the Caramelized Onion & Fennel Salt was superb, the Pastrami Short Rib with Spicy Mustard & Caraway was a dream come true.

Flaky, warm, tasty and indeed savory, I would have to return just for these.

I ordered a glass of refreshing Grenache/Cinsault Rose 2014 from Elicio in Cotes de ventoux which went with almost everything.



My first plate arrived and was a magnificent Jerusalem Artichoke Caesar Salad with Snow Peas, Radish, Pickled Onions, Pine Nuts & Pecorino Cheese. I was eating Spring and then tasted a small smooth, yet firm, crunchy and sweet fruit that I could not place. Sara said it was Asian Pear, and it was the perfect foil to this dish, although I love the fact that almost every dish here has something pickled on it! Roasted Jersualem Artichoke Chips come with the dish instead of croutons and are a true treat.



My first treat arrived and was a Borsht Tartare which I had been watching be prepared before me multiple times as it is one of the hit dishes on the menu. It is pickled beets with Smoked Trout Roe and a home made Sour Cream-Onion Potato Chip (that I could have eaten a whole bag of) and topped with fresh dill. The ideal dish for someone watching their weight, as was the Artichoke Caesar.

My second treat arrived seconds later in the form of Chopped Liver on Toasted Rye with Pastrami-Onion Jam, Pickled Red Onion and fresh Dill. It is one of the best I have ever had on earth and is of the creamy variety served in a smooth quenelle form which you can shmear on the awesomely buttery crisp thick rye bread. I wished I could take an entire pound (ok, a 1/2 pound) home, but I was headed to the opera and that might not keep.



For my second plate I chose the Matzo Brei just because it came with Smoked Tongue, Fried Egg and (yes, to my surprise) Maple Syrup. When I posted this on facebook, one person mentioned that smoked tongue is so rare (and another suggested he put cigarettes on his tongue....). OK, jokes aside, this dish was phenomenal in that the "brei" was of a kugel consistency in chunk form under the fried egg which I was able to break the yolk on for extra runniness which I adore. The two large pieces of tongue were accompanied by small crunchy pieces akin to bacon bits; I was in love. I might have thought the sweet of the syrup was weird, but NO, it was brilliant, and the fried egg was topped with crunchy thin scallion slices for even more flavor. This seemed to be the only dish I had (as well as dessert) without anything pickled!



Another treat arrived in the form of a one bite Corned Pork Belly Reuben. The folks had asked if I ate pork as they did not want to send out the one non-kosher style meat on the menu (this is not a kosher place for sure, but as I said, Jewish-style modern) and I shook my head "no-way." The bread again was toasted and buttery with pickled green tomato on the side and melted cheese on top. Instead of sauerkraut, this Reuben sported pickled cabbage/health salad with a zippy seasoning that was very different from your average Reuben and especially tasty.



Again, when it came to #3, I was in a conundrum between the duck and veal, so needless to say, they sent out both. The Duck Blintz is heavenly with a thinner than blintz pancake, but thicket than crepe and filles with Duck Confit, smothered in Foie Gras Butter and topped with a tasty tangy Sour Cherry Sauce. No bubbie makes blintzes like this! Although I would venture that Chef Sichel (who by the way will be cooking many of these dishes at James Beard House on June 17), must have someone in his family tree who tried to tweak our Jewish cuisine heritage!



The Veal Schnitzel Tacos are a revelation and I am so glad I chose this as my main course. There are two per plate and each soft shell is filled with a rolled up veal schnitzel that is flash fried before serving giving it a somewhat falafel crunch, yet the meat is so tender, it is soft inside. The team explained they were going for that fish stick taco look....no way, this was an awesome original creation topped with Health Salad or superb (and not bitter) radish shavings and pickled Cabbage with a to die for Anchovy Mayo drizzled on top. If you wanted spice, there were two lemon slices laces with Espalette Pepper for punch, and I didn't even think before squeezing them on. The overall experience was indeed "himlische", "meen ha-Shamayim" or heavenly.



For my main courses I had a glass of superb 2013 Petit Sirah from Peirano Estates in Lodi, California which Sara recommended. Right on the spot.



I had seen every dessert go  by and was completely full by now so I asked for a small plate of the Fluffernutter Crullers which looked like fried sugar-dusted bombolini and were filled right in front of me with creamy peanut butter and the placed on a shmear of Whit Chocolate Cream Cheese Fluff and garnished with poached Rhubard. the dish called for a mini-sprig of chervil, but the prep chef in front of me was not happy with the quality of the herb, so mine had none. No matter, I was so full and satisfied, that sprig would have been the After Six mint of Monty Python.

I can't wait to go back to Abe Fisher's in Philly for more food and fun. Thanks to the entire super staff as well.


Friday, April 17, 2015

Chef Erik Bruner-Yang of Toki Underground and the brand new Maketto makes merry at Food & Friends patron dinner (4-16-15)

Every year we attend a wonderful dinner at the Food &Friends Facility here in Washington which is for major donors, and it always proves to be a very fun evening.
This year it was DC's youngest super-chef Erik Bruner-Yang who has blown DC away with his ramen restaurant Toki Underground ( H St, NE). Last week he opened Maketto which serves
breakfast, lunch and dinner while you shop for clothes; it's a novel take on dining & shopping and might be worth a stop-in to see. Chef Bruner-Yang still came last night, although he departed a bit early after taking questions and walking around the room to greet the diners; he had lots of work to do in his 6-day old restaurant/store.
We chose this night as we wanted to see what he could do outside of the ramen realm, and he explained that the cuisine last night was indeed Cambodian-influenced as his wife is Cambodian and this will also be one of the styles of cooking at Maketto.
On arrival we tasted an awesome Cambodian Sausage in a Cabbage wrap which he later explained was fermented in rice giving it a slightly sour yet spicy tang which made me go for seconds. As Chef Bruner-Yang is from Taiwan, Chinese buns feature largely in his cuisine and we had Leek Buns with a tangy Hoisin sauce as one of our hor's d'oevres. Only the Scallion "Pancake" was a bit boring and because it just needed more flavor. It was not really a pancake but a phyllo-dough pastry like Spinakopita which was buttery, flaky and delicious, but only one bite had enough scallion for me.

The first course was a tasty Red Snapper Crudo(Ph'Lee Uh Sach Trey) with Watermelon Radish, Coconut and a Salt Cured Egg which was quite novel and a bit spongy. Chef later explained it is salt cured for three weeks in tamarind & lime like salmon hence the name 1000-year old egg in China. The Domaine des Cassagnoles Gros Manseng 2013 was the perfect foil to the complex flavors in the dish.
A beautiful, if simple, Khmer Tamarind Salad (Nyoam Teuk Amp-uhl)of greens including lettuce, pea shoots and "Phil's" carrots was next with a tasty tamarind dressing. I loved the in-bloom watercress flowers that were quite large and yellow atop the salad as these were tasty and not bitter as some edible flowers can be. Domaine les Fouques Cotes de Provence Cuvee de l'Aubigue Rose 2013 was a superb crisp wine and ideal for any dressed salad.

American Wagyu (Bao Gua Bao) was our main course and again with beautiful steamed rice buns (which we were told are gluten free) and more of that yummy Hoisin. We made our own bao sandwiches with the lean meat and accompanying pickled veggies. A Marc Kreydenwiess Costieres-de-Nimes Perrieres 2010 was aged enough for sure, but didn't have enough punch in it's light red mix to work well with the intense flavors of the meat, pickles and hoisin.....

Dessert was Banana Cream Pie and I would call it RE-constructed (no deconstructed) with Struesel, Caramel, Pastry Cream and Coconut. Not one plate had a bite left on the table.
 

Kosher for Passover "style" Dining at Dino's Grotto in DC's Shaw (4-5-15)

Every year we head out on one night of Passover since we try to avoid leaven and enjoy a Passover-style meal at DIno's Grotto in Shaw. This year was truly the best of all Chef Dean Gold's years and the food was impressive. The three of us gobbled up most of the food served family-style, and what was left we took home for later and enjoyed again the next two days!
Trio of Charosets offered up some novel takes on the Seder dish which is used to dip the horseradish in. Here we had one with Dried Fruit, Coconut, Chestnut Paste and Poppy Seed which was sweeter than I am used to, but I enjoyed the tropical tinge. Cooked Dates and raisins was amore Sephardi take and the third was a traditional Apple & Walnut with Spices.
I think the best thing we all adored was the Leek Fritter with Saffron which Samuel really wanted seconds on, but we proceeded to what Chef Gold calls "The Passover Trinity:"
Chopped Chicken Liver which is easily some of the best around town--although Samuel will never touch this :-))
Matzo Ball Soup, which Samuel will always gobble up, and this was a tasty one with light fluffy balls as well.
The Gefilte Fish was a huge hit of the meal for both Will and me as it was made from Salmon, Rockfish & Mahi making it probably the best I have ever had anywhere--no questions asked!

The main course was several items again family style and came served with Sweet Potato Tsimmes and Matzo Farfel with Mushrooms both of which the adults loved.
Fish with Citrus and Ginger came in the form of a delicious Salmon Fillet which Sam ignored that night, but gobbled up at home a night or two later.
Braised Veal Breast was the least impressive of the mains, but on the other hand the Tuscan-Matzo-Fried Chicken with Livorno Leek & Tomato Sauce was spectacular with an amazing juicy fried chicken, crunchy coating which anyone would adore on Passover and superb sauce.
Desserts were a dairy Almond Torte with Nuts, Cinnamon Ice Cream and Caramel Drizzle-YUM as well as Macaroons (I like mine better, sorry!)
We always have fun at Dino's Grotto as the staff is friendly and we get to chat with Chef Gold and his wife who are so warm and loving and caring.
Dino's is great ALL YEAR, don't save it just for Pesach!

DC's AL DENTE anniversary dinner is delicious (4-2-15)(please forgive my lateness)

Hi folks,
The night before Passover we decided to do a carb binge and chose AL DENTE where Chef Roberto Donna was actually holding a 3rd Anniversary Party for the restaurant in our neighborhood.
I am very sorry for the delay on this write-up, but Passover came and then my computer decided to misbehave, so I am quite backed up on this group!
At any rate Samuel looked at the menu and immediately chose the RAVIOLI del PLIN since he adores the butter sage sauce not to mention the meat stuffing and veal jus. They were superb and reminded me of how Chef Donna is truly one of the greatest pasta makers we know.
Before we ordered some anniversary nibbles arrived in the form of a shrimp arancini (fried risotto ball) which we offered to Sam as he loves them, not knowing it was risotto and shrimp. He was not happy as he truly does not like shrimp, at least for the past couple of years. When will this change again?
Prosciutto and parmesan cheese were on a slab of bread as was mozzarella and tomato, but the yummy tastes were the huge meatball with hot sauce and an Italian style mini-frittata.
We ordered a bottle of 2010 Val D'Aosta (Piedmont) called Donna's Nebbiolo which was specifically bottled for Chef Donna from near the French border (hence the label using the French valley's name Valle D'Aoste).
The wine is an awesome blend of 90% Nebbiolo with 5% each of Freisa and Neyret from the Caves Cooperatives de Donnas!
Will and I decided to order two starters to share. The Fried Zucchini Flowers with Ricotta, Lemon and a slight hint of mint were just in season and truly fresh and refreshing, while the Fried Sardines were superb with a Salsa Verde and Arugula topping. The bones lifted right out of each fish for simple bone-free degustation.
Will, knowing that Passover was 24 hours away chose the Pizza Salsiccia e Rapini with tomato sauce, smoked mozzarella, pork sausage, garlic and wonderfully fresh broccoli-rabe. I went traditional with the Veal Saltimbocca topped with Prosciutto and Sage in a rich thick Marsala Wine Sauce with Sautéed Spinach and a Potato Puree Tower.
We were way too full to even think of dessert and went home knowing that it might be a week without bread or pasta, but we had our fine share that night.
Congratulations Chef Donna on three wonderful years almost around the corner; it's good to have you so close!


--

Thursday, April 02, 2015

COLICCHIO & SONS soars in NYC's Meatpacking District (3-28-15)

Samuel, along with us, has always enjoyed Top Chef on TV, so he asked to go to Tom Colicchio's restaurant in NYC for our last night as we had no theater plans that evening after the awesome matinee of "On the Town." COLICCHIO & SONS is located on the Hudson River just off 14th Street across the street from the way-too-fun Chelsea Market where we spent too much time eating and wandering before being late for our dinner reservation. The hostess was so gracious and kind and we were so embarrassed. We were escorted to a beautiful dark wood table in the super high-ceiling rooms (more noise, alas) with carpeted floors )less noise). Exposed black steel girders divide and support (no, it's not a bra) the room. They have cool lighting which I can't describe and an awesome service team with our main server Morgan. The teams work so well together that everything was truly flawless and perfectly spaced as well.
The menu consists of several sections which Morgan explained were smaller size plates so you could choose more dishes and also share. House filtered sparkling or still is available, which is always welcome and we spoke to Patrick, the sommelier about our love of wines, especially those off the beaten track. He suggested an amazing minerally, dry and creamy Blanc et Morgez et de Salle from Valle d'Aosta in Italy on the French border from Maison Vevey Albert 2013 (hence the French name). The Prie Blanc varietal is one I never heard of but will surely remember for the future; the wine was supreme with all our fish dishes as well. Schott crystal is also nice, but the silly woven mats need to go on the tables.
 
House made Parker rolls arrived in a huge cast iron pan steaming hot with sea salt on top which we all gobbled up way too fast.
First came Hearts of PALM with Blood Orange & Sheep's Milk Yogurt with Brussels Sprouts Chips for Will. The dish had the hearts steamed on the thicker portions, so it was actually prepared two different ways.
Samuel started with the Broccoli-Rabe Ravioli which are charred and served in a broth with Lemon & Pepperoncini (actually Pequillo peppers) which he liked but said the broth was a bit unexciting. He went on to the Beef Tartare with Apple Jicama, Smoked Mayo and a kick from Aleppo Chiles, which disappeared prontissimo.
My first dish was the Marinated Himachi with Citrus, Celery, Pistachio & Watercress which I adored due to its simplicity but flavor as well; the pistachio crumble and dust was  very nice touch.
Will & I then split the Squid Ink Campanelle with Whipped Lardo & Egg which Morgan explained was awesome, but rich. It was wise to split this dish indeed and we were in love with every bite. Even the crunchy breadcrumbs on top were an asset to the perfect pasta preparation.
 
We were thrilled and surprised to receive a complimentary extra course for ALL of us in the form of the divine Celery Saffron Butter Poached Lobster with Candied Fennel and Fingerling Potato Chips which even Sam ate this reluctantly at first on the dare that he would get an extra APP for his phone. Well, he declared after that I can now cook lobster at home and he will eat it. Score one for the dads. The dish was awesome and truly a revelation.
 
For our "main" course, which is a misnomer as the dishes are all the same size Will chose the Charred Octopus with Citrus, Caramelized Endive & Chorizo Vinaigrette which I can only say was beyond compare as the octopus was so tender; like "buttah." The same goes for my Dry-Aged Sirloin with Asparagus, Black Garlic and Soy Bordelaise. I normally avoid steaks, but Morgan steered me to this super tender way more than flavorful meat that was indeed like "buttah." The garlic sauce helped a lot too:-)).
While Will finished the white wine, I ordered a glass of Artai 2009 "Closa Batllet" from Priorat in Catalunya, Spain which was an awesome chewy spicy red that paired excellently with the garlic and sirloin thanks to Patrick.
I was leaning towards cheese before the dessert menu came, but fell in love when my awesome platter arrived. There were three separate preparations (you can do one or three) each one a treat in itself:
SPENDIN' CHEESE was a Tickler (cow) from Devon with Mango Chutney in the form of a BLT on a biscuit with fried Prosciutto, avocado, roasted tomato and egg yolk. I could eat this BLT any day for lunch, or dinner or breakfast!
LET THEM EAT CHEESE was a Stilton Colston-Bassett from Nottinghamshire with a Vanilla Torte, Sweet Port/Lavender Sorbet(ice) and egg yolk as well as crumble. Again, sheer genius at work thinking these ideas up.
DON'T MIND IF I CHOUX (which is a play on the French pastry pate a choux, as opposed to the cabbage) and has Pyrenees Brebis (sheep) from Aquitaine with Cream filled Gougeres (puffs), Apple-Cherry Chutney, Fried Sage and Spiced Honey.
I honestly could not pick a favorite.

Samuel chose the Chocolate Hazelnut Tart with Port, Blood Orange and Cookies N' Cream Ice Cream. It was gone before I could even taste a bite.
Will has the yummy Coconut Cream Doughnuts with macadamia Nuts, Pomegranate-Ginger jam & Grilled Pineapple Sorbet.
Bravos to Pastry Chef Stephen Collucci, not to mention Chef de Cuisine Chris Lavey and the entire team here for a truly awesome last supper in NYC!
 

Midtown Manhattan's (NYC) PERA will perk up your taste buds at brunch (3-28-15)



While in NYC last weekend we met my niece for brunch and I chose PERA, a wonderful mid-town Turkish eatery that has a superb brunch deal with main course/brunch drink and coffee or tea for $21.00!
Yummy seeded rolls arrived with FETA Butter which we gobbled up and my niece was in the mood for Hummus which is served warm with LAMB Bacon and lots of tasty lavash flatbread crisps. The hummus was superb, but the bacon was skimpy and fatty; frankly our kosher vendors Hillel & Chaim who make Lambaaacon and sell it at the Bethesda Farmer's market every Sunday do a far superior job!
I had the SUMAC Bloody Mary which was tasty and had a super kick, but since Will is highly allergic to sumac, he had a delish Blood Orange Margarita.
My niece ordered the Pera-Style French Toast which looked awesome and came with Pistachio Jam, Feta Cheese & brandied Strawberries.
Samuel had the Chicken Brochette which was fire-roasted "tender marinated breast" with Garnish Salad (tomato) and lavash. He also insisted on the Mediterranean Fries which were seasoned so well, ketchup was not needed.
Will went for the kofte Slider of Grass-fed beef, "isot biber" mayo, more lamb bacon, Brussels Sprouts slaw and a side of those yummy fries.
Our server Kelly doubled as the bartender and seemed to be running the whole place which was cozy and warm on a cold day, but quite empty as it is at 42nd St & Madison Avenue which is quite quiet on a weekend.
He was very helpful and guided me to the Crock Baked Eggs which came in a huge cast iron pan and had a flan-like tortilla on the bottom, baked eggs all gooey and runny and mixed with Soujouk (sausage), Pastirma (a kind of crispy pastrami), fresh tomatoes and Kasseri cheese. It was one of the best brunch dishes ever.
 

Tuesday, March 24, 2015

BLACKSALT keeps on getting better and is the best in the neighborhood for sure (3-22-15)

The new DC Zagat ratings are out and Blacksalt moved up and is considered one of the top 45 spots in the DC Metro area with a 26 "food" rating (nobody got more than 28)!
That said, when we want to dine nearby, it's always our #1 choice since it's only 3 minutes away by car!
Our cousins were visiting from NY on Sunday so we head over for a superb evening and got the best table in the house right next to the huge glass kitchen wall, so we could see everything and watch the super team
at work. We ordered a magnificent bottle of Yves Cuilleron "Le Lombard" Marsanne 2013 from the St. Joseph area of the Rhone. I've visited this wineyard twice and met M. Cuilleron himself when he was alive; they still make some of the best wines in France. The Lombard is smooth with a huge nose and tons of the amazing minerals from the cliffs that overlook the Rhone and the Alps in the distance.
A plate of Butterfish & Tuna Sashimi arrived for us to dig into with crispy Fried Rock Shrimp and several tasty sauces scattered around; spectacular with this wine!
I actually started with the Japanese Me Dai (Butterfish) Sashimi and was thrilled to have a full plate to myself with Snow Peas, Radish, Crispy Ginger, Red Miso Aioli and Sesame Tamari sauces. The fish was indeed as Barbra would say "like buttah."
I could have eaten a ton. Will went for the Wood Grilled Baby Ocotpus which has a new preparation with Spicy Peperonata, Salsa Verde and Confit Gold Potatoes. Need I say more?
My cousin had the Oysters Rockefeller and his wife decided on one large starter of the Miso Marinated Butterfish with Tempura Rock Shrimp, Sticky Rice, Broccolini, Shitake Mushroom and Sake-Yuzu Glaze which did this truly amazing fish great justice.
We moved on to an amazing bottle of Oregon Pinot Noir suggested by Jim, the manager, from Cameron "Clos Electrique" 2011 from the Dundee Hills that was huge on the nose, a bit spicy, but smooth as silk in the mouth.
Wood Grilled Swordfish was a dream with Polenta Cake, Confit Eggplant, Grilled Squash and Spinach Sundried Tomato Vinaigrette. Our sever, Irwan, declared this his favorite dish on the menu due to all the excellent veggies and superb fish; boy, was he right on.
Atlantic BigEye Tuna is always a hit here (and today I'm headed to their market to get some to make tartare for our dinner!), now prepared with Jewel Sweet Potatoes, Corn Smoked Greens, Confit Pork & Sweet Potato Mole (catch a photo here -http://www.blacksaltrestaurant.com/dinner-menu/entrees/)
My Wood Grilled Mackerel with Spicy Puttanesca, Roman Artichokes, Soft Polenta and Arugula Pesto was truly one of the best dishes I have ever had here, and hands down the best mackerel dish ever. The fish is strong, so it needs something extra big and this was right up my alley (check out my facebook page for a photo of this awesome dish and dessert as well).
We could not resist dessert and it's always a treat. Samuel, who had foregone the steak and fish menu for grilled chicken ended up gobbling the entire Chocolate Chambord Truffle Cake with Raspberry Compote and Whipped Cream before I could even grab a photo. The trio of Creme Brulees are white chocolate/raspberry, butterscotch and milk chocolate/hazelnut which has to please just about anyone. Will always has the Key Lime Pie now with Blueberry Compote, Whipped Cream and Sesame Seed Tuile which is nice, but I love it really limey, so I went for the amazing always tops Chocolate Peanut Butter Crunch Cake with Caramelized Bananas & Peanut Brittle which my cousins graciously helped me finish as it was so rich and so huge.
We left all full knowing that Blacksalt is the BEST in our 'hood!


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Friday, March 06, 2015

Make it MASALA ART for magnificent munching (3-2-15)

On Monday we joined some vegan friends and hence chose to return to MASALA ART (at Friendship Heights, thought they now have a second location in the SW Waterfront-www.masalaartdc.com). This was our third time there since their opening and it was as good as before. We told our server, Sammy, what we had before and what we liked and he helped us choose some new options...everything was amazing. We ordered so much there was enough for 2 more meals at home this week!
Samuel chose his Vegetable Somosas and avoided the sauces :-)) and then had the Murg Tikka Masala, a yummy dish of chicken, onion, tomato gravy and fenugreek.
Our vegan friends ordered a number of the vegetarian dishes without yogurt and the staff was more than accommodating to boot!
Aloo Aur Pyaz Bhaji is a gear potato-onion-chickpea fried ball that is easily one of the star dishes here as is the Aloo Tiki Chaat a fried chickpea patty (think latke)with potato raisin and a yogurt or fruit/spice dip.
We chose a Truant 4 Vines Old Vine Zinfandel 2011 and ordered two more bottles as Monday is 1/2 price wine and at $16 this was a steal!!
Garlic Pepper Naan is one of my faves, but Will seems to prefer the Rock Salt/Cilantro version. There is also the Pappadam which you can order with a plate of hot mixed Indian pickles. Then there's the yummy tamarind sauce and cilantro paste to dip the pappadam in!!
Bhareli Wangi is an amazing Indian baby eggplant in coastal spices and tawa sauce that I would never have ordered save for our vegan friends; another hit!
My favorite veggie will always be the Tawa Bhindi that awesome okra cooked perfectly with no sliminess at all!
Lassoni Corn Palak--creamed corn with spinach is a close second in line for my vegetable competition. Will adores the Saag Paneer which is Spinach with Cottage Cheese.
Aloo Gobi isn't bad either if you like Cauliflower and Potato. For vegans the breads often have butter, but the Tandoori Roti is vegan unleavened whole wheat bread (get ready for Passover!).
Sammy suggested we switch our entrees to two different ones and we chose the Bhatti Ka Jheenga which are huge chargrilled Prawns with a dry spice rub that will really get your taste buds going.
For the Lamb dish we switched to Lamb Neelgiri Korma a rich stew with mint/cilantro gravy that was a treat, but I think I prefer the amazing Adraki Ginger Cumin Lamb Chops.
Missi Roti was another starch we could have skipped, but the breads are so good and this chick pea flouw with ginger and ajwain is indeed excellent.
There was not a sour note to the food, service or ambiance...we were just so full we couldn't eat another bite.
Samuel enjoyed the yummy vegan Nib Noir (crispy dark chocolate with brown rice) that our friends brought for him and we headed home with leftovers and the wine as well!


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Saturday, February 28, 2015

a new neighborhood treat and BISTROQUET is more than OK (2-26-15)

Last night we joined some friends and headed to BISTROQUET which opened in the Palisades 5 months ago (www.bistroquetdc.com). It was very quiet for a Thursday at 630pm and the place never filled up, so I am not sure how good they are doing, but the cheery demeanor of the staff and the warm feeling made us indeed fell as if we were in a tasty French bistro gone American.
The crusty French bread was very nice and the butter was delish, but could have used a dash of sea salt on top for flavor. They were out of the Saumur we ordered but the Domaine Philippe "Plantevin" 2012 Cotes du Rhone was a superb blend (60%Grenache/40%Syrah) that went with everything.
Three of us chose the Napoleon of Crab, Avocado, Celery Root  Remoulade and Grapefruit that was assembled on layers of "Parmezan" Tuiles (someone must not be spellchecking). It was a delish creation and very light and refreshing. The Gratinee Lyonnaise was a superb French Onion Soup laden with Swiss (as opposed to Gruyere) and got raves. The kids passed on starters but loved their main courses. There are several kid's menu items that are very French such as the trout, and of course Samuel loved his Petit Steak/Frites.
For entrees we chose the Filet de Saumon cooked a la Plancha with Crab-Lemongrass Ravioli, Lobster Coconut Sauce and Stir Fried Spinach that was a success for sure as was the Fricassee de Volaille au Curry Vert, a Friacsee of Chicken Breast with Thai Green Curry, Basil Coconut Milk and we even were able to change the Jasmine Rice(carb) for Spinach Béchamel (not carb, but rich).
If you were on Will's facebook page last night you saw not only the photo of the two boys, but his enormous Saucisse de Toulouse Maison, a foot-long Grilled Housemade Sausage with Mushroom Fricassee, Pommes Frites and Salad. It was so huge, we had to take part home. My Veal Kidney Dijonnaise was sublime with Maille Mustard & Wine Cream-Mushroom Sauce and Fresh Linguini.
We also had a yummy side of Sautéed Brussels Sprouts with Bacon, Shallots & Butter.
 
Dessert was less of a success while Samuel liked his two Raspberry Macarons (true French ones) ridiculously prices at $2.25 apiece for the bite-size treats. Oliver loved his Mango Sorbet and my Cherry Clafoutis Crème Brulee was a true winner.
Petit Pot Chocolat Noir with orange Confit Ice Cream  and Sacristan Cookie was a pudding at best but the loser was Will's Raspberry "Tilamisu" (yes, spellcheck) witrh Lady Finger, Sweet Muscat Raspberry Liquor and three tons of Mascarpone Whipped Cream that made up 90% of the dish with little flavor to boot.
We will go back, but maybe we shall eat more starters than desserts!!
Our server Branden was very sweet and helpful and is getting married soon, so we also wish him luck!

Thursday, February 26, 2015

Sheila Kaufman's THE TURKISH COOKBOOK makes for awesome cuisine at the Natl Press Club (2-25-15)

Last night I joined our friend Sheila Kaufman as she presented a Turkish feast based on her cookbook, THE TURKISH COOKBOOK, which is her 26th cookbook published to date.
The event was held at the Fourth Estate here in DC at the National Press Club and as we arrived Barkan Israeli Chardonnay and Cabernet Sauvignon were being offered with some tasty tidbits:
Cheesy Fried Eggplants (Kizarmis Peynirli Patlican, Istanbul)-I will give the dishes name in Turkish as well as which region it comes from.
which I adored even though I am not an eggplant fan! The feta cheese was the magic key to these tasty fried treats.
Chicken Kebabs (Tarcinla Tavuk Kebabi, Istanbul) were moist and juicy
Chickpea patties with Garlic Yogurt Mint dipping sauce(Nohut Koftesi Yogurtlu Havuc) were awesome fried chickpea patties and remember I am not a mint fan, but the sauce was spectacular
Walnut & Red Pepper Spread (Muhammara, Gaziantep) was a tasty sauce broiled on slices of bread which I could have eaten all night....but more was to come.
 
As we sat down I was thrilled to be at Sheila's table and little did I know how much she knows. It seems she was a history teacher and this has spread to her cooking knowledge which was clear when she spoke so eloquently before and during the dinner. She was introduced and the catch phrase used for her cuisine was "easy, elegant and fuss-less." I have the cookbook, so we shall see....
First came Green Bean Soup with Green Lentils & Bulgur (Fasulye Corbasi, Sivas-Central Antalya)which had a bit of spice, which Sheila usually doesn't like, so I was quite surprised. The beans were cooked perfectly and crispy thanks to the amazing team of Chef Susan Delbert.
Vermentino 2013 from Argiolas Costamolino in Sardegna (Italy) was a crisp dry wine with lots of textures that was amazing with the soup thank to the work of The Wine Guy, Ron Brooks.
 
Next was the Salad which was supposed to be Grandmother's Purslane (Semizotu Salatasi, Gaziantep-Antalya) but was replaced here with celery, radicchio, parsley, sumac and more. The wine was a Regaleali Bianci 20102 from Tasca in Sicily which might just be my new go to salad wine!
I used my knife and was a bit disturbed when the server placed it (dirty) on the table for me to reuse with the fish. This is really not good for fine dining.
Moorenko Green Apple and Mango Sorbets came next for a palate cleanser.
 
The fish course was Baked Grouper with Mediterranean Flavors (Akdeniz Usulu Laos Baligi, Mersin) which was topped with a tapenade like sauce made of garlic, shallot, cubanelle peppers, tomato, mushroom, spices and more. On the table was a bowl of Hot red pepper sauce which I added for a bit more spice and the grouper was simply divine. The wine was a Vinkara Reserve Kalecik Karasi 2001 from Ankara which has to be my first Turkish wine. The Kalecik karasi Grape is novel to me for sure and according to Ron sits between Pinot Noir & Nebbiolo...okay--we all loved the wine and the pairing.
 
The entrée was Lamb Shanks with Romaine Lettuce & Scallions served with fingerling potatoes and root veggies. On a cold night, this is a super dish I will be ready to try at home. It's earthy flavors and spices went amazingly well with the Anima Negra 2012 from AN/2 in Falanis on the Spanish island of Majorca, another new awesome wine place for me! The grapes are Caillette and Montenegro and they leave a hint of spice on the back of the throat; the wines are also all natural and organic, always a plus.
 
We were getting full but dessert arrived in the form of Nightingale's Nest (Bulbul Yuvasi, Gaziantep) which is a phyllo pastry filled with walnut a la baklava but here rolled into a cylinder and formed into a coil bird's nest shape and sprinkled with pistachio. The sccop of vanilla ice cream was welcome as the dish was very rich and quite overdosed in the phyllo zone for me. We had a choice of Raki(arrack) from Yeni in Turkey or the Moscato d'Asti house wine, which I chose. Those that tasted the raki made awful faces saying it was way too strong and very licoricey....NOT FOR ME!
 
I saw the hot pepper sauce on the table and asked if I could take it home and a lady opposite me asked to have her leftover lamb to go; they refused. I called the chef over and she made an exception. I could not believe the Fourth Estate sneers on doggie bags!
Well, that said, the dinner was a success and the book is staring at me here begging for me to try something...maybe this weekend!
 

Friday, February 20, 2015

On the third night of power out, it was too cold to move...so DISH was Delicious (2-19-15)

Well, we just lost power yet again and are praying.....PEPCO is due any minute.
Last night it was 0 with the wind chill, so we ate at our hotel where Will & Samuel had also dined on the first night away when I was in NYC. DISH at the River Inn is always a treat and last night our server Maram made us fell like family.
Samuel returned to his Butternut Squash Soup with Roasted Pumpkin Seeds but here with Pumpkin Seed Oil, which he declared superior to Chez Billy. Will tried the Roasted Red & Golden Beet Salad with Feta, Arugula, Marinated Onion & Citrus while I adored the Fried Green Tomatoes. They were prepared perfectly and some of the best I have ever had with a topping of Arugula and sitting on a bed of Crème Fraiche with little bacon bits. Superb!
Samuel had two orders of the Duck Confit Spring Roll appetizer but does not seem to like the Sweet Chili dipping sauce or the Mesclun Salad. Will & I both chose the Swordfish Special Grlled with a superb Chimichurri Sauce on top with Garlic Spinach & Rice. A Poppy 2012 Pinot Noir from Monterey, CA was recommended by Maram and she was spot on with this wine.
Will tried the Apple Beignet with salted caramel ice cream for dessert  saying the ice cream  was not very salted but beignet was yummy.
Sadly, while we love Dish and the River Inn, we pray we can stay home tonight and not checkin for the third time downtown this week!

Make it MANDU in DC if you crave Korean (2-18-15)

The third night of homelessness for Will & Sam was my second and I chose MANDU (www.mandudc.com) at 1805 18th St, NW just above Dupont Circle and we were very cold and heated up perfectly by the spicy and warmth of the food.
We had a hard day and cocktails were in order. A triple coke for Sam, a martini for Will and I chose the Joe Gibbson made with Hangar 1 Vodka, house brine, celery bitters, pickled carrot  and radish cube garnishes which were tasty and just right on this novel take of a martini.
A bottle of Poliziano 2012 Roos di Montalcino followed and was great with everything.
Samuel wanted the MANDU to start, steamed pork dumplings and declared they were delish. Will and I split the Hobak Jeon, a superb egg dipped zucchini, deep fried and served with soy dipping sauce. Our second starter we split was the superb Goo Jeol Mari, cold rice crepes (spring roll like) filled with veggies, egg, beef and according to the menu served with a thin mustard sauce. It was a light mustard, but packed a punch and I used it for the zucchini as well. 
Sam chose the Chicken Somyum Bowl which was a monstrous chicken broth bowl filled with Somyum Noodles, pulled chicken, mushrooms, carrots, bok choy and scallions. He asked for the egg strips not to be put in as they were cut strips of cooked egg. We took home half the bowl as it was so huge, but very filling.
Will & I both chose the hot stone bowls. Will had the Short Rib version called Galbi Dolsot and mine was Dolsot Bibim Bap or beef, veggies, rice and sunnyside egg on top. The sauce is called Gochujang which is a spicy chili bean paste. The stone bowl was so hot the rice caramelized on the sides as it sits in front of you. Even 45 minutes later as we finished the bowls were still very hot, quite welcome on such a cold night. We also received a plate of awesome veggies which included Broccoli, Rep Pepper & Sesame, Bean Sprouts with Oi (Marinated cucumber), Marinated Tofu with Fish Cakes and mini-kick Kimchi. It was all superb and fun as well.
Our server, also named Will, was very helpful as we had no clue what to order and the location upstairs has wooden tables and chairs (again no so comfy for my tuchus) with exposed brick walls and lots of various Asian art and pottery.
Surely a nice break from the many other Asian options we have in DC!
I also tasted the So Ju Charm, which is a rice & citrus Distilled Korean Liquor that tastes like Vodka but with lower alcohol. Think vodka-tasting-sake. YUM!
We shall return!

When the power is out (or you are hungry) head to Petworth in DC for french cooking CHEZ BILLY (2-17-15)

This week has been awful in DC with unreal temps, snow and then total loss of power and heat at our home on and off for 4 days going on 5 now.
So, we moved to a hotel and this is the first of several nights' out that we had not planned.
Chez Billy at 3815 Georgia Ave, NW has been around for years and its sister Chez Billy Sud just opened recently in Georgetown. It's a great place with some amazing dishes that you will find at many fine French bistros, but this was new for us.
The booths have very hard wood backs and seats with very thin cushions, wooden tables, tin ceilings, so it's not a place you linger.
As we were cold (well we seem to always be these days) we loved the awesome French bread that came steaming hot as hades/ We ordered a bottle of wine to find out they were out of many wines due to the Valentine weekend.
I asked for the Burgundy and when it came, Will offered to taste. I did not see the bottle and it was the one that was DOUBLE the price as there were two Burgundies. In the end, they did not charge us at all for the $94 bottle. WOW!
We tipped big. The Cote de Nuits Villages, Vieilles Vignes 2011 from Patrice Rion was an awesome Pinot Noir with a spicy taste in the mouth that I loved. It warmed us up well.
Sam is now on a butternut squash soup binge and chose the Soupe a la Courge Musquee with Crème Fraiche, Curry Oil and Toasted Pumpkin Seeds. It was gone and mopped up with that bread as fast as you can imagine. Will chose the same, and I had the Tartine aux Champignons (photo on my facebook page!) which is not really a tartine as it sits on a piece pf grilled bread kind of open face loaded with wild sautéed mushrooms with an awesome sherry vinegar and fried Duck Egg on top. It has to be one of the signature dishes of DC and does it taste terrific!
Sam had the Poulet Roti with carrot purre, swiss chard (which he loved) and cauliflower gratin which I have to say was a bit gummy and unappetizing. The baby chicken was moist and just right. Will had Moules Normandie with cider, leeks, apples, bacon, crème fraiche and blue cheese which had a nice flavor and of course a side of frites. My Confit de Canard was a tasty duck with pommes de terres sarlandaises (crispy balls, but not fried), shitake mushrooms and garlicky spinach. The dishes are large so we headed home full and thankful to find a warm place with good food on our first night together (I was in NY the night before while the boys had to move out!).


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Tuesday, February 17, 2015

when near the Bowery in NYC, head right to HECHO en DUMBO for delicious novel Mexican (2-16-15)

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My last meal in NY was just across from my hotel on the Lower East Side at Hecho en Dumbo (www.hechoendumbo.com) where the food marries traditional Mexican cuisine awesome ingredients that give it a totally modern take.
The place is simple and small with a bar up front and just over a dozen or so tables of 2 or 4. There are exposed brick walls, and while the tables have candles, the lighting levels are a bit low for menu reading; many folks were using their smartphones to read them. Paper napkins could be replaced by something cloth as the food often requires using your hands and the tacos are stuffed full, so can be messy, There are no formalities here, just great cooking in a modern take.
From 5-7pm there is a Happy Hour and I was eating early to head to the opera, so I tried the classic Margarita (all of them run $12-15 apiece) which during this time (even at the tables) are all $7 each; a steal. There is a small plate menu for happy hour as well and I tried the Tostada de Atun which is on special for $3 apiece. It was a crispy yellow torn tortilla topped with Tuna Sashimi, Spicy Aioli which has a nice lingering of spice in the mouth and Crisp Fried Leeks.
I saw two starters on the main menu and asked if they were large. The server/manager/boss(?) said they were not huge, so I said that I would try and could always order more afterwards.
Three salsas had arrived in the form of pico de gallo, a traditional red tomato that was not too spicy and a super spicy habanero tomatillo.
My first appetizer dish was the Pulpo ala Plancha which was a superb Roasted Spanish Octopus over a Garlic Anchovy and Oregano Mojo with a yummy side of Grilled Housemade Queso fresco topped with some crunchy toasted bread crumbs. It's a great pair.
Next came the Tacos de Tuetano, surely the most modern take on the dish with a small basket of yummy mini corn tortillas and  ahuge plate of two huge roasted Bone Marrows and Beef Tongue with the most divine Morita Salsa on the side and a pile of tasty Caramelized Onions. It was amazing and so much fun to put the tacos together.
I was still a bit hungry so I ordered three small tacos from the taco menu and the server said I could mix them up if I wishes. GREAT!
Taco de Alcalde was filled with smoked Sable, Braised Octopus, Gulf Shrimp, Red & Yellow Pepper, Tomato, Red Onion and melted Chihuahua Cheese (I hope it wasn't made from a dog :-)))....The smokiness of the dish was amazing.
Second was Salbutes de Chochinita Pibil or Berkshire Pork with Yucatan Spice steamed in Banana Leaf over Sour Orange Juice with flash-fried yellow corn tortilla, bean puree and pickled red onion. I didn't get the orange flavor, but the tiny taco was a dream.
Last was the Taco Campechano with finely chopped cecina(salt-cured steak), chorizo, house made chicharron (pork rind) and chile de arbol and topped with chicharron salsa.
Sorry to be quick, but I gotta head home and the snow is making it hard!
All were great and I left very happy.....

Monday, February 16, 2015

ANNISA in NYC is more than just a nice-a place, it's awesome (2-15-15)

You might think that after my brunch, I might forego dinner. Well, I had planned a big dinner, and the brunch came after, so I could not give up my table at one of NYC's most intimate, amazing and hot spots, ANNISA (www.annisarestaurant.com) located on quiet secluded Barrow Street in the West Village.

It had gotten even colder and when I walked in at 630pm, the temperature was 7 with a windchill of god-knows-what-below-zero. The dining room was protected with a huge hanging carpet like wall from the door, but my table was closest to the door, so I did feel a chill but it was rare as the place only has some dozen or so tables and the turnover is slow as most folks eat for 2-3+ hours here. ANNISA is Arabic for "women" and Chef Anita Lo, who had taken the night off after a no doubt arduous Valentine's Day the day before, is known for sourcing her wine from all female vintners! Logan, the manager, explained that I was in good hands with Chef Mary Attea, and indeed I was convinced of this within one course, if not two.

I started with a Candied Ginger Vodka Cooler with Baby Ginger, Lemon & Soda and perused the not too large menu. There were starters and mains and two choices of tastings: 5 & 7 courses. I opted for 5, told my charming and helpful server Dominic that I had eaten a large brunch and needed to spread these courses out over the entire evening. He was fine. I chose to do wine pairings to allow me to taste more of these awesome ladies' wines as well.

If one thing was wrong with Annisa, it was the slightly loud volume of the very nice music. I found myself humming along, but if I had company, it might have been just a tad too high to converse well. 



Dominic was assisted by Anna throughout the evening and all the staff really work here as a team and it does work well. I always had my wine and food on time and was offered an extra taste of wine if needed. When I asked to take more time, I got to relax between courses and find out that one of Dominic's friends was on Top Chef II and has  a place in Brooklyn, which he promised to email be about.

The 5 course tasting is $85 and this was indeed a bargain for such a high end NY dining spot. Speaking of the spot, the décor is simple with a large overhead fixture at my table so I could see well, candles at others. White walls, gold curtains and large wiry branches arranged in huge vases decorate the room. There is a bar with stools at the front on the entry level which was jammed and SRO only by 730pm, and it was Sunday. My table had some of the most beautiful fresh floers including luscious white roses.

The Amuse arrived in the form of a tiny Tartelette, cup shaped and filled with Escargot with Green Garlic Butter, Lemon Zest & Chive. It was salty, garlicky and full of flavor one small bite that burst. Bread had arrived, but I never touched it all night as it was a simple roll not made in house.

Steak Tartare was my first course and I saw this on the menu, but was wary of the preparation, one of the Signatures of Annisa. It is mixed with bulghar, red onion for crunch, cinnamon and allspice and has a big Tunisian brick (chip) on top laden with cayenne which gives this dish a kickass punch. It was paired with a Lanzarote Listan Rosado 2013, a superb crisp rose from the Canary Islands that fought the spices and cleansed the palate easily. Three sauces were on the plate for amazing variety. A Chinese Chili Oil was simple, a Black Sesame Sauce and the OMG Sesame Tofu with Garlic & Lemon which was like an aioli and also had a dash of cinnamon. This had to be the BEST steak tartare I have ever had anywhere, hands down.



My second course was another Signature dish and this one will blow anybody's taste buds off the planet. Chop Sticks, Chinese Soup spoon and silverware arrived, so I was confused, but I had heard about and seen this dish already around the room. I was ready.

Shanghai-style Dumpling(with broth inside) was served with a magnificent slab of Seared Hudson Valley Foie Gras on top over a Ginger Balsamic reduction. Dominic explained the safe way to engage this "creature" is to place it in the spoon with the chopsticks and then bite into it (it is way too big for one bite) so that the insides flow onto the spoon and can be enjoyed, Speaking of insides, the broth is foie gras mousse based with jicama for crunch, shitakes, ginger and yes, anise (which I could not taste at all, thank goodness). The 2013 Jean Baptiste Gunderlach Riesling Kabinett from Rheinhessen had an essence of pineapple in the mouth and was super with this blow your mouth apart dish.



Next came an extra course of Pakora Fries Oysters in a cucumber with Pickled Fennel. I had told Dominic that fennel and anise were not my faves, but pickled fennel is now in my list of awesome things to pickle and boy did this carry a punch. This team is not afraid to use spice and it is done with great love. There was a chive oil, which was really a puree and yogurt underneath the crunchy oyster treats. 2012 Athina Assyrtiko from Santorini was one of my favorite wines all night.



Broiled Spanish Mackerel is such an intense fish, it is often so hard to prepare well. Here it is given oerfect bursts with so many different awesome spices. Alone the fish was seasoned perfectly with an amazing skin, but it was served with the most spectacular Korean Gocujang Sauce of Fermented Bean & Chili which reminded me of the fermented sauces we had in SE Asia recently. It had a great kick and a plummy aftertaste, and was served with Satsumaimo Sweet Potato Cubes and leaves (from Japan) that I adored. The crowning touch were Garlic Fried Milk Balls, think fried ball with supercreamy garlic filling of a cheesy consistency!! With this fermented sauce a 201 Tokay Furmint from Dobogo, Szent Tamas Betsek Vineyard was a tough wine to dissect as it was quite earthy to fight the spices and fish intensity.



I asked for a break and enjoyed some of the first red, Nittnaus 2012 Blaufrankisch from Kakund Schiefer that was slightly spicy and a great new find for a drink alone or with food red. Eventually my Seared Tenderloin of Venison arrived (perfectly rare) with Parsnip Puree, Saskatoon Berries, Parsnip Chips, Black Truffles and a sauce of Venison/Sage/Pink Peppercorn & Butter with Crispy Sage Leaves. YUMMY. And to my surprise, the next table was occupied by an opera singer friend of mine from DC!! Small world.

For those of you on Facebook (where I can now be found) I posted a photo of this superb dish with the caption, "Bambi, eat your heart out."

So if you want foodie photos and need to where I am eating at that moment (so you can walk in and surprise me as well), just friend me.



I watched as a lady at a nearby table lit her check on fire and blew it out; was she unhappy?

No matter, I was thrilled. Lafage Ambre Hor's d'Age Grenache(white) dessert wine from Rivesaltes was poured and I adored the golden liquid (thing young acidic Sauternes)even though it was not super sweet. Pecan Beignets arrived in a small basket with nary a drop of grease from the frying. They exploded in my mouth with the Warm Salted Butterscotch Filling and an awesome oozy center. I ate all but one as I was now at my limit. The Bourbon Ice Milk next to it in a shot glass was okay, but just too cold and icy as the temperature had dropped way below zero by now and the windchill was -17 or so!!



There was one farewell plate and it was quite hefty. The trio of treats was a Huckleberry Lychee Popsicle (this I ate as it was so small and oh so yummy)=, despite its chill), Candied Ginger and a Chocolate Mint Truffle.

ANNISA is not to be missed if you can get in!

NYC's MAREA means business for brunch (2-15-15)

On Sunday, I was thrilled to be able to meet two dear friends and clients in NYC who are here to sing at the Met tonight. I chose MAREA as the food there has always been so good, and our family loved dinner several months ago at it's sister Ai Fiori downtown.
It's been several years since my first time in Marea, and while formal and stiff, it is an excellent place to dine near Columbus Circle/Lincoln Center & Broadway.
I arrived early amidst the 0 degree wind chills and settled in with a traditional classic & spicy Bloody Mary made with Belvedere Vodka.
They do a $47 tow course fixed price brunch and while this seems high, the food is top quality and they are Relais et Chateaux!
I started with an awesome ZUPPA-Mushroom Brodo (broth) with Poached Egg, Sunchoke & Hen of the Woods. I loved this dish as it was hot and satisfying with such a strong broth that was ideal on this day, then the poached egg that oozed into it was so perfectly brunchlike as to transform the dish.
One of my guests had a delicious INSALATA of winter greens, pomegranates, gorgonzola and walnuts and the other chose a beautiful SEPPIA, Cuttlefish Tagliattelle with Soffrito Crudo and Bottarga di Mugine (mullet eggs).
A glass of superb Vermintino "Boboli" Collie di Luna 2011 from Giacomelli in Liguria arrived for my meal and it was ideal with the brood but even better with my main course-Strozzapretti, those awesome priest-hat shaped pastas I adore but here in a rich decadent creamy sauce with Crab, Sea Urchin & Basil, topped with crunchy bread crumbs for a little crunch. OMG!
Caramelle were superb goat cheese ravioli with arugula, an amazing sour cherry flavor and pistachios, while the CAPESANTE were huge seared scallops with Cider Braised Pork Cheek, Apple, Celery & Pine.
We had time for dessert and two of us chose cheese while the other went for a creamy Panna Cotta Fior di Latte with Green Apple & Roasted Pineapple Sorbetto.
My cheeses were a superb VBC Cremont from Vermont goat & cow that was creamy and rich and served with marinated red currants, a mediocre Consider Bardwell Pawlett (raw cow) with also not too exciting quince jelly and a yummy Bellweather Farm San Andreas raw sheep with a date paste.
I should have switched that Pawlett for the Casatica Buffalo from Italy that my guest chose.
Last came yummy Chocolate Almond Financiers that were tasty & crunchy and had a gold leaf on top.
Here is where things started to sour. We had asked for coffees after dessert and they never showed. I asked three or four times, and also requested the bill as I had a 3pm curtain and it was now 230pm. The coffee had not shown by 240pm, so I cancelled mine and paid very fast and ran out; I made my show with 4 minutes to spare as I grabbed a cab right outside. They did take the three coffees off the bill, but I never had time to enjoy mine.
Other than that, this brunch was a big boost on a cold day.

A Napa Love Story -Meadowood Resort moves East to James Beard House in NYC(2-14-15)

For my first of three nights in NYC, I returned to James Beard House where the team from Meadowood Estates Events in Napa Valley had come east for a cold wintry Valentine's dinner.   Headed by Chef Alejandro Ayala, who has been running the special events catering at this luxurious resort for two decades they did an amazing job as the house was packed more than I have ever seen. On arrival, I met Beverage Director Scott Beattie and I was amazed at the two drinks he had created for this event. One, a simple Manhattan made with superb bourbon & rye with a giant square ice cube in the round glass was heightened by three types of bitters:Angostura, Bitter Truth & Fee Brothers-Whiskey Barrel Aged. I fell in love with my first Manhattan in Manhattan. The other drink was an amazing creation of love made with Vodka, Meyer Lemon Juice, Kaffir Lime zest and candied peel, but the highlight of the drink was the Rangpur Lime (it looks like a Mandarin Orange) from India marinated in Chinese 5-Spice & Honey. It was so tasty and soft, you could eat the rind. I fell in love with this treat.
As always many hor's d'oevres were being passed around and I got to taste them all, Beets & Raspberries with Bergamot & Chive was nice, but won no prize unless you are a vegetarian. Better was the Squash with Pepitas & Crema on a crispy Squash Chip. The three winners were the superb Beef Tartare with Parmesan & Salsa Verde, the awesome Foie Gras Tortellini with Short Rib & Black Truffle Consomme and finally the divinely rich Lobster Arancini (fried rice balls) with Pimenton & Cilantro.
After a couple of glasses of Napa Krug Sparkling, we headed to our tables for the huge and elegant dinner.
First was the Meadowood Garden, which featured vegetables specially grown for this event in their Napa garden and starred Yellowfoot, Black Trumpet Mushrooms, Burgundy Truffles, Celery Root Puree and Pickled Matsutaki. YUM.
Smoked Bodega Mussels were flown in as well  and served in a Marble Potato Chowder with Celery Variations & Espellete (pepper). I loved the pickled celery in this dish and it was all served with a Napa Valley Reserve Sauvignon Blanc 2013 which had quite a high acidity; I would have preferred a smoother wine such as viognier.
The Day Boat Scallops, it turned out, came from Maine and were served with an awesome Creamed Kale, Black Truffle and Meyer Lemon. The truffle vinaigrette was gorgeous, the charred onion powder oh so different, and the mini-turnip so cute. Copian Brousseau 2012 Chardonnay made by Wells Guthrie & James Thompson of Chalone was a perfect pairing.
Ora King Salmon came form New Zealand and was carefully treated with Heirloom Lentils, Coriander Stages & Iberico Ham in a dried crunchy form that gave excellent flavor to the dish. The Hilt Vanguard Pinot Noir 2012 was a bit thin for me as I so prefer Oregon wines, and this made by the folks who own Screaming Eagle (oops).
Liberty Farms Duck was crunchy skinned to perfection with Parsnip, Huckleberry & Tiny Carrots and we had a delicious The Napa Valley Reserve 2004 Cabernet blend which really had aged beautifully.
Rib Eye "Cap & Eye" was an excellent steak dish with Garden Vegetables Cabernet and turnips and was served with two reds: The Napa Valley Reserve 2008 was quite nice, but I thought the Jonata El Alma, 2009 Cab Franc was way too tight; maybe it needs more time in the bottle, or maybe it's just not for me.
Lots of chocolates and macaroons arrived as there was no formal dessert, but we had all enjoyed a wonderful Valentine's Dinner, with no kitchen failures that so often occur in your dining establishment with blownup prices on this night!


--

Saturday, February 14, 2015

JamesBeard Celebrity Chef Tour takes it to DC at Del Campo deliciously (2-12-15)

Wednesday evening I was delighted to attend the first James Beard Celebrity Chef Tour in DC this year hosted by Chef Victor Albisu at his Del Campo (777 I St,NW) where he was joined by a cadre of chefs from all over to serve another awesome mea. Jeff Black, who organizes these events said it was the 3rd time in DC in a year, which makes us a hot destination! YAY!
As always, the event started with a cocktail hour and I tried a Lady Marmalade (don't you just love the name) from Pepita Cantina which had Avua Cahaca, Blood Orange Marmalade, Calvados & Lime. I had another yummy drink from Del Campo, but forgot to jot down the ingredients.
Many yummy hor's d'oevres were passed around and local Chef Scott Drewno from The Source was at the counter frying up yummy dumplings as well. Spicy Potatoes with a creme fraiche dip, uni on a chip with caviar, deep-fried rice with hot sauce and my favorite the monkfish liver all abounded.
We sat down and I had a nice table of folks making it an excellent evening company-wise.
Yummy pupusa-like bread came with il and sea salt; I stopped at one piece.
The first wine was poured, a Casa Silva Sauvignon Blanc "Cool Coast" from Colchagua Valley in Chile 2011, as all the wines were from South America with the Latin themed dinner (subdued Latin music played all night). Our glasses were always full all night and we could not have asked for better service at every moment. Chef Anthony Lamas of Seviche Restaurant in Louisville was at bat first with Tuna Tiradito, Aji, Peanut & Sweet Potato. He said that in Kentucky they do spell Seviche that way, so it was okay....and also told us the awesome peanuts were Tennessee Reds and Carolina Blacks (who knew you could be a peanut afficianado?). I got my grapefruit fix from the wine and the the first course was a huge success across the board.
The second course was prepared by Chef Michael Schlow of Tico Rstaurant from Boston which is now also open in DC (gotta get there soon). His "Spicy Catalan Stew" with Crispy Rice & Crushed Almonds was the hit of the night for everyone. There was indeed spice, shrimp, chorizo, escargot, clams and more with a paprika aioli that had the most awesome texture due to the rice. Flavors abounded and burst out all over in the "stew" which really was not stewlike at all as the "sauce" was thick and not runny.
I never did get to ask the chef what the spicy strands of leaf were atop the dish.
A Catena Zapata Chardonnay "Catena Alta" 2011 from Mendoza, Argentina was a nice wine, and while I know this was a fish-based stew, I think a lighter red would have even been better.As the wine warmed up, the Chardonnay developed and did fight the spice much better.
Third was Chef Jamie Bissonnette of Coppa in Boston and Toro in both Boston & NYC with a Cuttlefish, Crab, Black Chili & Iberico Ham. This was an orzo based "chili" with a little goat cheese and the entire thing was another thick stew-like dish that really had lots of flavor, but did pale a bit next to the Catalan-style dish. Vitivinicola Lafken Pinot Noir, Cuncumen from Leyda, Chile 2011 was a nice unfiltered wine that was on the lighter side; give me Oregon, please.
Fourth was a Asado Trio of Rolled Creekstone Prime Skirt Steak with Parmesan, Sunchoke & Smoked Yolk that had awesome flavor and was one of the stars of the trio. The second star was the Fermin Iberico Pork with Crema & a Smoked Caviar Chimichurri which was the biggest hit at our table (save for the lady next to me who did not eat shellfish or meat--WHY WAS SHE HERE?). The Olive Smoked Rack of Lamb with Tapenade, Roasted Garlic and a Goat Dulce de Leche (which we never did seem to discover) was a very nice lamb chop, but just that. The three meats were paired with an awesomely smooth and delicate but gutsy Malbec Blend from Bressia called "Profundo" 2009 also from Mendoza, as well as a Los Vascos de Rothschild Lafite Cabernet Sauvignon "Le Dix" from Colchagua Valley in Chile that was overly gutsy and just so big I really did not care for it.
The main course was of course prepared by host Chef Victor Albisu (also owns Taco Bamba in Falls Church) who was joined by Chef Antonio Soriano of Astor Bistro in Buenos Aires who came in for this event!
 
Dessert was an awesome Salted Flan with Meringue, Pistachio & Dulce de Leche Crepe (more of a rolled pancake) prepared by Chef Chris Ford who hails from Bouchon in California and is Corporate Pastry Chef for Bryan Voltaggio Restaurants in DC & Maryland.
It was a hit of a night for all and I am right now in NYC preparing to head out to dinner at James Beard House itself where Chef Alejandro Ayala of Meadowood Resort in Napa will be cooking up a storm!

Sunday, February 08, 2015

ORIGIN in Toronto is terrifically original, esp for brunch (2-8-15)

I met a client at ORIGIN (www.origintoronto.com) for brunch today and the menu was equally split between lots of French toast dishes and savory ones.

We both wanted a hefty meal in the snowsqualls and chose the Short Rib Hash with Chimmichurri, jus, fried egg, white and sweet potatoes and yummy buttermilk fried onion rings. My guest chose the Fried Rice with Pork Belly, Deep fried crispy eggs, ginger, soy and chilies. The eggs were deep fried and amazingly crunchy outside and like poached inside...awesome.

The Duck Duck Goose drink of which I had two was a revelation with duck-infused Vodka, clamato juice, hoisin, fresh micro coriander, sesame brittle in the form of a powder on the rim and pickles. More novelty.

Even the tables are glass topped over a wild silver metal weave. The place is simple and fun a perfect for brunch.

A final glass of dessert wine from Cave Spring, but this was the much better 2010 Indian summer late harvest Riesling..and I'm hopefully headed home.

Toronto's LUMA is lovely for late night or anytime...(2-7-15)

Last night my marathon of Die Walkure at the opera ended just after 9pm, so I headed several blocks from the Performing Arts Center to LUMA (www.oliverbonacini.com) which as you can see from the website is part of the large empire of Chef Oliver Bonacini, a well known and successful entrepreneur in the food biz up here. LUMA is on the second floor of a movie theater complex and it has the window space over the street so while I sat, I had a great view of the CN Tower and its awesome nightly light "show."  Behind me on the other side is an open kitchen and the dining room is one large (and hence quite noisy space) with a large bar and lounge at the other end. The wall that separates the spaces has a great display of neat wooden plates. The fact that I was surrounded by two groups of loudly cackling women, made it worse, one woman was extremely loud, vulgar and bothersome; all the staff sighed when she departed.



My server Stephen was a gem and very helpful. There is a $35 three course Winterlicious deal that runs for a couple of weeks here like our own Restaurant Week back home. I saw some items on the a la carte menu I preferred, to which Stephen said "no problem." I perused the wine list and searched out some of the wines I had seen earlier in the day while shopping at the huge liquor store nearby for treats to take home from Canada and settled on a bottle of Norman Hardie "County" Unfiltered Chardonnay 2012 from Prince Edward County in Ontario (Niagara region). It was evident that Ontario has some of the best and largest limestone for wineries and the wine was full of flavors from that stone and the fruit; a chardonnay that is very French, yet very Canadian-no oak or butter, but superb. It was great with both my courses.

I started with the Smoked Klondike Potato Soup with Flaked Haddock, Braised Leeks and Tobiko. The rich warm soup had no cream, but was thick and tasty after walking the 10minutes in the strong snowfall. The flavor from the haddock and tobiko a fun burst.

There were delicious warm sourdough rolls with lemony-garlicky hummus.

Next came Seared Scallops (from eastern Canada) with Curried Cauliflower Puree, Kamet Cashew Pilaf with cashew pieces & Raisin Jus with marinated raisins and Cider Reduction.

There were four HUGE scallops on the plate seared to a crunchy top perfection and perfectly pink inside. The Kamet pilaf was new to me and akin to Kasha or barley and quite filling as well, so this is not a light dish at all. The puree was creamy and rich and each scallop sat on a wilted spinach leaf for texture which I loved. The cashew reminded me of the chef's crunch signature from the night before at George. Coriander Cress (we call that cilantro) was on top. The dish was a masterpiece of various flavors and I was so thrilled to enjoy it from off the set menu (even though there were nice choices there) as I really wanted fish for dinner.



Dessert was a cheese plate of 3 Canadian cheeses:

Le Mont Jacob from Jonquiere, Quebec was a semi-pasturized cow that was the least exciting but improved with a dribble of the honey that came with the dish.

Goat Cheddar from Lindsay, Ontario made in an English clothbound style was a nutty crunchy cheese with creamy intense flavor that I adored.

Bleu d'Elizabeth from Ste-Elizabeth de Warwick, Quebec was a superb crumbly organic semi-soft blue that I could easily have eaten more with.

I had ordered a glass of Cave Spring Riesling IceWine and when I drank the glass that arrived it was nit that sweet. It turned out Stephen had brought me the less intense Cave Spring Late Harvest Indian Summer Riesling, which was fine. After I realized the error he brought me a small glass of the much more expensive IceWine which was awesome and so sweet and perfect after everything--and he didn't charge me for that! I am so happy I have a bottle of the wine to bring home and cellar and enjoy again in 10 years or more!

get thee to George for glorious gourmet tastes in Toronto (2-6-15)

I arrived in Toronto for the short weekend at about 6pm yesterday, quickly cleaned up and took the 20 minute walk over to GEORGE (www.georgeonqueen.com) which is one of the most fascinating dining spots on town and truly an experience not miss.
There is a small bar in the entry and quite a small dining room divided into several sections. The noise level is not too high, but the music could have been a bit softer.
The floors are rustic wood with exposed ceilings of black. Where I sat in a small open wrought iron pagoda ( about 6 tables were in this area) there was a large central steel drum-like chandelier filled with tiny flame bulbs and drooping with huge giant crystals. At the opposite end of the room there were several steps down to the open kitchen, which seemed even larger than the dining area. Overhead mirrors made it food to look at what was going on from where I sat. A large B&W poster of a lone man in Piazza San Marco reminded me of "Death in Venice;" there were some posters as well, but little else in wall decor. Here the food of Chef Lorenzo Loseto has been the star for just over a decade.
House sparkling water was offered (a flat $2 charge for unlimited pours) which was some of the best I have ever had as house sparkling can be wimpy. I ordered the Deep Freeze Martini which is Belvedere Vodka served in a glass half-filled with frozen (-20degrees Centigrade) and it was indeed ice cold. It came with olives, but they will do lemon, onion, or whatever you prefer. It warmed me up after the long cold walk and the only thing wrong with it was the cocktail napkin under the glass on the plate which sticks to the glass each time you lift it (think your tongue on a frozen surface).
I just moved it and all was fine.
My server Ian began to explain the menu, but I had decided I wanted a tasting menu and all I needed to do was decide between 5,7 or 10 courses. The regular menu is divided into 3 sections for courses as well, but I just said everything looked awesome and chose 7 courses for $130 (please remember these prices are Canadian$ and hence are 20% less in US$, so $104US). The wine pairings were and extra $80CAD and well worth it for the variety and healthy pours (and refills if needed).
A breadbasket arrived with olive bread, plain, focaccia and the most awesome flatbread that was salty, crumbly and greasy (not bad greasy, more oily,like olive oil) and hard to resist.
Ian explained that he was also the sommelier, although the super handsome Jordan often brought the wines and explained. First came Brut Sauvage from Domaine Baud et Fils, a yummy Cremant de Jura that got creamier indeed as it got a bit warmer. The amuse, which was quite large arrived shortly after and featured Calamari with a super rich Black Pepper Panna Cotta. There was a small mound of what the chef calls "Singapore Slaw" which is a cabbage/carrot/veg slaw that has a mini-kick. Having just been in Singapore, I would never say it was spicy. The squid was perfectly cooked and tender and served at room temperature; the panna cotta was divine.
This adventure started at 730pm and I left at about 11pm, so the service is perfectly spaced and balanced; I never had to ask to slow down or speed up. I did notice two men at the next table that arrived at about 745pm and were gone within 90 minutes after eating three courses rather hurriedly; maybe they had other plans. I would linger over all the awesome offerings.
Casa Marin Sauvignon Gris 2013 Estero Vineyard from the San Antonio Valley in Chile is a wine region I did not know, and this rare Gris version of the grape is splendid. It was paired with a Tuna Sashimi stuffed with Tuna Tartare an topped with Caviar (I think Osetra, I forgot to ask). The plate was decorated with colorful beets, carrots and celeriac with cardamom oil, a lemongrass aioli and some paper thin miniature sesame wafers. The carrot wasabi mustard was not spicy at all, but the tartare and sashimi was melt in your mouth magnificent; truly one of the best ever.
There was a brown wild rice and bacon crumble for a big crunch, and I was to discover that the crunch element is this chef's signature in each dish!
 
At this point I noticed the crystal was Spiegelau with a large "G" etched into each bowl, although it did change to Riedel when the reds arrived. My next white wine was another novel varietal, Chasselas Vieilles Vignes 2012 from Schoffit in Alsace was packed with acidity and while Jason said it was full of stone fruit flavors, I smelled the ripe fruit, but on the palate it was more like unripe nectarines. The wine was nice, but probably my least favorite all evening, and I always like a richer wine with lobster, which arrived seconds later. Butter poached Canadian Lobster was over Saffron Couscous with Roasted Mandarin & Blood Orange segments, Heirloom Carrots, Brulee Avocado, a ChimiChurri Puree (which was quite wild and fun), Baby Watercress, Cashew Crumble (for that crunch) and a single Potato Tuille (think elegant home made potato chip) for more crunch. I loved this dish and it easily was one of my top choices all night, but others were all just as good.
 
My favorite wine of the night arrived next, Kew Old Vine Rielsing 2012 Beamsville Bench from Ontario is a small production (about 500 cases) wine that I wish I could buy to take home. Jordan called it off-dry, but the old vines here are indeed quite dry and filled with awesome fruit in the mouth. An exciting and novel Crab Cake was sandwiched in a seasame-potato-pancake-crepe like construction with Navy Bean-Papaya Relish, Black Olive Tapenade, Brulee Cauliflower which tasted pickled and more of that Singapore Slaw was another favorite of mine and I savored each bite and hence had to ask for more of the awesome Kew Riesling :-).
 
By 930pm the din of the full room had grown, but not to that loud trendy noisy stage I despise. Rabbit Confit over a potato slice with sunnyside up Quail Egg on top, a Chick Pea Fritter, Passion Fruit Sour Cream, a huge slab of seared Foie Gras (from nearby Quebec) with tiny sliced Kumquats, Sweet Potato Crumble and tasty Matchstick Veggies all over the plate. I love Foie Gras and Quebec has some of the best. This was as simple as the preparation gets, but the kumquats made it really pop. The rabbit was also amazing, like a hash with a fried egg on top.
Torraccia 2011 which is from Corsica offers the Neolucchio grape (another new one for me, akin to Syrah/Grenache) from Christian Imbert et Fils was a full bodied red that paired well with the dish, maybe perhaps even a bit too big.
 
Next came the "main" course so to speak:a Beef Ribeye with Pecan Sweet Potato Puree, Candied Garlic, Turnip & Apple, Artichoke Hearts, Goat Cheese, Black Olive Relish, a super thin slice of Olive toast (almost wiry) and a small pile of Sauerkraut & Parsley Quenelle in the corner, which was the one thing all night that I really did not care for. I am not a steak person, but this meat was cooked divinely and really showed off the meat to perfection; I almost did not need to chew it! The surrounding embellishments made each bite different and even more fun. There were also micro greens, candied garlic (for crunch?), Mushrooms and Chard. A magnificent 2005 Cannubi Barolo (Terre de Bricio) drank elegantly and at almost 10 years old has cellared well and would make any red lover happy.
 
Cheese was the 6th course and overall the least exciting of them all. Pacific Rock Pasturized Cow a delicious Canadian Cheese was featured and was a cheddar consistency served with parmesan crisps and bread. Candied Apple Pecan and Persimmon Jam were the accoutrements, but overall the dish needed something else for me. The Belen's Bual 10 year old Madeira was a treat.
 
1983 Pedro Ximemez PX Gran Reserva Sherry was an intensely rich and sweet sherry which paired with my overly chocolate dessert; true indulgance.
Cocoa Mascarpone Mousse with Mandarin Broth, Orange Streusel, Blood Orange, Gooseberries and Candied Citrus was another superb dish, and remember, I am not a chocoholic. This was a great pairing and a wonderful way to end the evening, YUM YUM. I have only one more night here, but intend to dine around as much as I can!
I'll have to return sooner next time (it's been a decade since my last trip!).


--

Monday, February 02, 2015

CARAQUENA in Falls Church, VA is a squeeze worth falling for (1-31-15)


We had theater tickets in Falls Church on Saturday and decided to try a new place specializing in Latino cuisine of Venezuela & Columbia.
We arrived for our 6:15pm reservation at CARAQUENA ((www.lacaraquena.com- which is the term for a native of Caracas).
The tiny place was jammed with over 1/2 a dozen people standing in the doorway hovering over tables nearby where folks were ordering and eating.
There were two women (one taking orders, one at the "bar" as a hostess) and one busboy and the kitchen has to be the size of a small bathroom!
I started to have doubts especially since the locale in a small building on the property of the Stratford Motor Lodge in downtown Falls Church looks about as welcoming as a Motel 5.
The "hostess" said our table would be ready soon, and we began to worry even more as the parties that were nearly finishing were at tables going to those in front of us.
We did sit at 630pm or so and while this was not too long, we worried more as our show started in 90 minutes. We ordered about 10 minutes later, and waited.
It took about 25 minutes for our one appetizer to arrive. I had heard this place was awesome for arepas, and the rumors are true.
We ordered one CARNE MECHADA Arepa which arrived stuffed to the gills with shredded beef and a tasty but not too spicy japaleno salsa on the side.
You could easily make a meal of two arepas, but then the vegetables are sparse as the ingredients tend to be meat, starch or cheese. We should have started with the chicken perhaps, as our main
course was made up of the same meat.
Samuel had ordered the POLLO ALA PLANCHA which is cooked juicy and served with a tasty lemon-caper sauce, which he adores. It had a side of broccoli which he stared and changed the mashed potatoes to fries (in an adorable mini-fryer basket), which were okay, but needed salt. Speaking of salt, it seemed that everything (save the fries) was indeed slightly oversalted, but still tasty. Our main courses arrived just as we finished the arepa, so indeed we made our show with tons of time to spare. So once you are seated and ordered, everything tends to come at once!
Will ordered a Palma Louca Brazilian beer which he liked, but my glass of Lopez de Haro Tempranilla/Crianza was only okay--maybe it was the saltiness of the food that made it taste funny?
Our main courses were a dream: PABELLON COMPLETO con BARANDA is again a pile of the pulled beef with fried plantains, avocado, black beans, queso blanco (very salty white cheese shredded) and rice all topped with a sunny side up fried egg. It's a gem of a dish guaranteed to fill anyone.
Above our table was a framed apron from the chef signed by TV chef Guy Fiero with a "Guy ate here" scrawled on  it dating back to May 2010. So this place has a following.
The one thing I really hated were the fraying colorful woven placemats that were slightly too large to fit two on one table, so that if you jiggled your mat, if forced the other person opposite you to have his food, or worse, the wine glass move!
Not well thought out. They need to be trashed.
Latin salsa music plays quietly and the mood here is upbeat and actually not too noisy (we had a table of 10 or 12 next to us for a birthday) as the place can't even fit two dozen diners!
I'd love to go back on a quieter night to savor the other arepas and the yummy looking margaritas!