elegance exudes at the Edwardian Grille at Bovey Castle, Devon, UK (8-4-13)

We left London rather quickly this trip to head to the SouthWest and discovered a region of England that we quickly fell in love with from the people to the scenery to the food!

We spent our first night at Bovey Castle (www.boveycastle.com) which seemed aboyt as fare from anywhere as one can get in the UK, yet still live in elegance. The castle was built by the now famous bookstore chain owner WH Smith with magnificent views over the North Dartmoor (the gorgeous hills or moors of Devon) and is now a superb hotel with friendly staff and a warm welcome. Dinner at their Edwardian Grill was virtually perfect starting with the GIN CURED MACKEREL with Salcombe CRAB (in a salad and soft shell), sliced daikon, Crushed Hazelnut Puree and Cucumber Puree. These were our first tastes of local top quality ingredients from Devon and they were indeed supreme. Or superb server "Bob" explained that his name was a shortened version of his last name as at home was known as Zbyzyko Bobinski. Our sommerlier, Ahmed, made magic with wine starting with a Moulin de Gassac, Selection Guibert 2011 from Languedoc made from Viognier, Chardonnay & Sauvignon Blanc. While this is not a common blend, it was a genius combination and ideal with the tantalizing starter. Another starter was ASPARAGUS & DUCK EGG which was just that--a soft duck egg (the kind cooked slowly for hours) with Asparagus Bavarois and Summer Truffle. OMG!

The breads were just as good with Sea Salt & Oatmeal as well as White with Poppy Seeds and the local butter was as if it came from the cow next door.

Samuel enjoyed the DEVON FILET while we had our starters and we knew our amins would be a treat as he raved.

We switched to a CHATEAU de FONSALETTER 2003 Reserve Cotes du Rhone from Chateauneuf du Papes from Chateau Rayas of Grenache Noir that Ahmed suggested and he was spot on with this aged red that was divine with the 8oz. crusty Devon Fillet with Triple Cooked Chips, Portobello Mushroom, Micro Greens, Fine Beans wrapped in bacon and Bearnaise Sauce. Move aside American steakhouses.

The Short Ribs and Veal Sweetbreads (also from local livestock) came with Cepes, Pickled Onion, and a Rich Red Wine Sauce with Parsnip Puree. The Sweetbreads actually were inside the tortellini and the whole dish was amaaaazing.

 

The cheese arrived with the handsome Maxime at the cart and we choose almost everything as he said whatever you desire:

Trois Lait-hence three cheese, a rich runny

Devon Blue-not to be missed when in the region

which we compared to Blue de Gex (from Aix) and Blue d'Auvergne....all three were divine.

Lancashire Bomb is a cheddar that is filled inside a plastic "bomb" yet super rich and creamy.

We had a contest between the Stinking Bishop and Vacheron and it was very tough to decide which was stinkier :-))

Petit Livarot and Crotin de Chavignol (goat) were nice but the Tete de Meurice -a rich creamy blue was a new and novel hit forme.

Sharpham is a local cow we also loved and these all came with date bread, almond fruit pate, crackers, apples, celery and quince paste.

It was all so amazing we never got to dessert! But what a night!

--

everything is always lovely and luscious at The LEDBURY in London (8-3-13)

It has become a tradition for me to head to The Ledbury in London as soon as I arrive there, and this trip was no different. I waited for Will & Samuel to arrive the day after I did and we took off for our tasting menus, which have now become legendary.

The decor has changed a bit since the riots two years ago when protesters destroyed the entire glass front, but the intimacy remains and the service, now under the new manager, Darren, is still impeccable.

On Fridays and Saturdays only the 105 pound tasting menu is now available (wines are an extra 70 pounds per person, and well worth the expense as they are new finds, rare treats and perfects pairings for every course.

Samuel stills gets his 49 pound multi-course menu and now at 10-years old, he really has come to appreciate that every course is geared specifically to his tastes.

 

The Foie Gras in tuille with Apricot Meade was delish and Sam even tried this although

he admitted the liver texture is not his thing. He was brought a Cucumber Cocktail with Elderflower which he liked at first, but said it got a bit sour after his first course pairing. This was a RISOTTO of New Potatoes, Celeriac & Wine Mushrooms with Shaved Black Truffles. We discovered immediately that Samuel now adores truffles!!

The Bacon & Onion Rolls arrived and these are not to be missed, yet they look like sweet cinnamon buns. Crystalized Malt Rolls are also super tasty.

Our Amuse was Chilled Courgette (Zucchini/Squash) Soup with Lobster & Parmesan. Once again this place never fails to impress your palate warming it up for a roller coaster ride of fab flavors. The BERECHE et FILS CHAMPAGNE from Montague de Rheims was a great treat with this small soup taste.

 

Ceviche of hand dived SCALLOPS with Tokyo(from Berkshire) Turnips, Seaweed Oil and Frozen Horseradish is a dish that Chef always has on the menu but comes in variations, as his frozen horseradish is a signature ingredient. This came with small apple jelly pearls resembling caviar for fun. A simple PICPOUL de PINET Domaines Felines Jourdain 2012 stood up to the acidity.

 

When its hot in the summer (and it was in London), lighter fare on a huge menu is always welcome and even moreso when it includes local farm products. Salad of GREEN BEANS with Fresh ALMONDS, Peach and Grated Foie Gras was a hit for all three of us. Samuel, thought the grated foie was parmesan at first and declared he can easily eat it in this form! He got a PEACH & CRANBERRY Cooler to pair here and enjoyed Johannes Josef Prum 2011 Riesling Kabinett from Mosel which has a tiny bit of sweetness to play on the peach and foie gras.

 

Flame Grilled MACKEREL & Tartare with Pickled Cucumber, Celtic Mustard and Shiso is a dish we had two years prior and Darren says it will never leave the menu, lest a riot ensue. It's a fab dish with the tartare and avocado wrapped in a thin rice-paper-like roll, but it must be a vegetable base for sure. Of course the grilled fish with mustard can't be beat. ASSYRTIKO 2012 from GAIA in Greece is wild fermented and has a yeasty but crisp flavor matching the difficult combinations of tastes in the complex fish presentation.

 

At this point Samuel received a CRISP CHICKEN over Sweet Corn Veloute and I know at some point his drink changed to Kiwi-Pineapple Ginger Ale!

 

We proceeded to the WiLD SALMON with Tomatoes Cooked in Lobster Oil with Crayfish and Lemon Verbena. The wine was COLLIO FRIULANO 2011 from Toros, which I have never been a fan of, but must admit the wine paired again brilliantly with the lemon and other ingredients.

 

My first time at The Ledbury introduced me to the signature preparation of CELERIAC Baked in Juniper with Hazelnuts and Black Truffle. Well, that is the variation we have today ad the celeriac is ceremoniously brought to the table before it is baked and then presented again in its burnt cooked salted crust before being plated tableside. It is a fun dish as well as an amazing tantalizing taste. Samuel was enjoying the truffles, I had to ask and discovered these are from Australia which explains why they are so flavorful, as they are not lighter summer truffles from there at this time. Domaine Ostertag 2009 Zellburg Pinot Gris from Alsace is a superb wine from a winery I always adore and it was delightful with the mix of flavors here.

 

Our main "meat" course was Loin of Hampshire ROE BUCK with its sausage and Red Leaves, Vegetables, Salted Cherry Blossom and Bone Marrow. There were beets and a sour cherry chutney as well for sublime flavor. We finally moved to a red, Jean-Luc Colombo 2007 Syrah "Les Ruchets" and Samuel was treated to Lamb with Young Carrots and Potatoes, only to move on to a Filet of Beef with Potato Galette, and a small portion of the celeriac in juniper. He also got some smoked marrow, but said it was not to his liking. We were so amazed at all the new things he was tasting. It was really a journey.

 

The pre-dessert was Black Currant Crumble with Yogurt, almost like a parfait with tiny beignets. Sam liked the donuts, but not the parfait, which we both loved.

 

Next came Thinly sliced BLACK FIGS with White Heather Honey, Olive Oil & Caramelised Sourdough. The sourdough was more like a crisp for crunch and the honey-like mousse sat on top. BANYULS 1952 fro  Pietri Geruad was actually just released in 2009 and is indeed present vintage. WOW, what a treat.

 

A trip to The Ledbury without cheese, is indeed like a day without sunshine, so we indulged. We had so many I decided not to take note of each name. Instead I will say that each and everyone was a treat.

Black Currant Leaf Ice Cream came last and since Samuel was not crazy about this they brought him a selection of Mango, Strawberry and Apricot Sorbets.

 

Dark Chocolate and Juniper Biscuits, Caramel Ganache Biscuits and Jellys arrived in a coconut shell filled with cocoa nubs. I discovered that Samuel had a big bag of Chocolate Truffles for Take-Away when we finally got back to the hotel.

We did not feel full or overburdened by this long and tasty meal; it was indeed simply perfect.

The Ledbury will be missed until we have the chance to return again.

Quilon will quench your thirst for Indian food in London, UK(8-2-13)

My first night in London was the guest of the intimate 51 Buckhingham Suites just around the corner from the palace. There are several dining options in the complex, but as I adore Indian food, and QUILON (meaning "place"-www.quilon.co.uk) is also a Michelin-starred gem that I knew I would adore.

Lots of modern art is mixed in with the dark wooden panels with a Middle Eastern feel. Light wall panels made of blond sand dollars were novel. The music was definitely Indian in feel, but quiet and soothing, making for a very "Zen" setting indeed.

Puree of coconut-coriander and a tomato-onion sauce arrived with small mini-papadams as well as bowls of lemon pickles (these had a fab spice mix making them irresistible) , garlic & peppers pickles, and something else also were spread in front of me. When I go to Indian restaurants, I am always in a quandary as to how to use these excellent condiments, but I mixed them around and made the best of it, as the food here is SouthWestern Indian and already loaded with sublime spices.

Wine is also a big problem when spice is involved, but the manager suggested an English Bacchus grape from FLINT HILL, Chapel Down in Kent that had a floral nose, citrus, but was very dry with a white pepper aftertaste mixed with green apple. It was perfect with the first dish, a seafood plate with SCALLOP in MANGO CHILI and a CRABCAKE with Mustard Sauce. Micro greens in a slightly spicy vinaigrette sat between the two. I immediately asked where the local crab came from and was told they only use Scottish or Devon crab; whichever it was very flavorful, moist and meaty.

The second course arrived and was a delightful mix of seas and land. BLACK COD was gazed and mildly spiced to allow the excellent fleshy fish to shine. Greens again appeared separating the cod from a shredded LAMB in tomato sauce and spices on a banana leaf. The lamb was quite spicy but this dish was accompanied by a plate with Malabar Paratha, a na'an like bread but here made from refined butter and flour from South India that is thinner than na'an and much crispier. It was the perfect mix with bits of the bread to calm the lamb. Fred Loimer GRUNER VELTLINER 2012 "Lois" had a bit of a fizz and was a nice foil, but worked best with he cod and not was well with the lamb.

A "palate cleanser" of Warm Spicy LENTIL SOUP appeared in a glass and I promptly deemed it "Indian chicken soup." This is what I want the next time I have the flu. It was thinner than a tomato soup, or lentil soup, but rich with spices and flavors with a little sediment of lentil as the bottom as well.

 

MANGALOREAN CHICKEN CURRY was rich as could be and the large cast pot that arrived was way to big for one person. Crispy OKRA was sliced long and deep fried in rice flour and tumeric making it the best okra I can ever recall. This needs to replace the ominipresent french fry! LEMON RICE is also flavored with tumeric, lentil peas and mustard seed making it ever so exciting. I finally discovered that the small leaves as garnish were curry leaves, although in their fresh form they have a very unexciting flavor. 2010 La Reserve GROVER Cabernet/Shiraz is from Bangalore in India and was my first Indian wine ever; it was and excellent pairing.

 

The restaurant was quiet, but I was quite shocked to see a Japanese family arrive all in shorts and t-shirts (at a fine dining Michelin establishment).

 

Next came a true palate cleanser of creamy GINGER SORBET and then I chose the BIBINCA & DODHOL with Vanilla Ice Cream which is a traditional Goan dessert that I found fascinating. One is a thick coconut pancake with layers of melted chocolate sauce and the other  a dark "chocolate" looking wedge made from palm jaggery (molasses) with condensed sugar giving it taste of a divine honey cake yet soft and moist, not dry like we so often get at our Jewish holidays. The vanillaice cream was infused with rose petals.

 

White cardamom chocolate and Rose milk chocolate wafers arrived and I took a small ite of each, but they were quite sweet, so I proceeded back to my hotel after a truly fab experience.

 

ORSO is always moreso and great for all kinds of dining and food in Fall's Church, VA (7-27-13)

Last night, again prior to a performance, we headed to ORSO where we are in love with the fresh ingredients and brilliant cooking style of Chef Will Artley.

For a Saturday night the place was busy as could be with couples, families, extended family groups and singles. This place makes everyone happy.

When you have staff like our server Steve who takes time to offer suggestions for food and wine, then you also are going to have happier clientele.

It was hard to decide as we wanted to enjoy several small plates as opposed to the larger ones or pizzas (still trying to diet!).

Steve told us to shy away from the Tomato Basil Bisque as it was a cream base, so we ordered two spectacular salads to start:
GRILLED WATERMELON SALAD with Smoked Blue Cheese, Grilled Onion and Balsamic Vinaigrette is as refreshing and light as a salad can get. the melon was sweet, juicy and

worked brilliantly with the greens and smoky cheese.

BABY BEET & CARROT salad sounds simple, but is one of the best I have ever had with Purple & Yellow Beets, Purple & Orange Carrots, Smoked Ewe's Cheese, Greens and

two swaths across the side of the plate....a Carrot Vinaigrette that was more like a puree (think baby food, if you must) and an unreal Pomegranate Molasses. Love went into the creation of this dish as well as the freshest of local and heirloom-style ingredients around.

I asked Steve for a glass of the dry Rose from Domaine La Blague, but all he had left was a taste as the bar had only the last drops in a bottle. I liked it and we settled for the RUEDA, Palacio de Vivero which was a citrus, smoky white from Spain.  Steve insisted I try to Terre del Barolo 2007 BARBARESCO and it was a treat.

 

We next enjoyed Caramelized Shallot & GOAT CHEESE RAVIOLI with Forest Mushrooms, SunDried Tomatoes, over a bed of Sautéed Chard. The sweetness of the goat cheese was tempered by the chard and I have to say, Chef Artley knows his pasta well. Even better was the Smoked Gulf SHRIMP with what was called a CORN RAGU and Fire Roasted Red Pepper (Fresno) Coulis, really more like a paste or sauce.

The shrimp were excellent and the ragu consisted of String beans, peas, mushrooms, garlic, garbanzo beans and roasted peppers. Again those local fresh veggies that make this place tops for ingredients. The "coulis" paste was so good, I said that it needs to be bottled as pasta sauce. Chef Will told me I could have it as a sauce on pasta anytime; I guess that's next best!

The dishes are served on giant wooden paddles which is really adorable, but beware when someone places it in front of you with the handle as that handle sometimes has some food on it that might drop in your lap!

I wanted one more little bite and asked Steve if Chef would prepare for me a 1/3 portion of the THREE LAMB BACON SLIDERS with Smoked Aioli and Tomato Jam. One was just right. Three is a meal!

The lamb was tender the aioli zesty and the jam should also be bottled for sale! It came on a grilled warm bread that had a pita-like consistency; maybe it was made in the pizza oven? I did not ask. I called it a lamb gyro gone wild with GOAT CHEESE and PICKLES!

 

No dessert, but we got a subscription to the Creative Cauldron Theater next door for next season, so we will be back a lot. ORSO offers a discount if you are going there! 

--

You gotta get to THE CURIOUS GRAPE in Shirlington, VA for great eating. (7-26-13)

We are regulars at Signature Theater in the Shirlington area of Arlington and last week we tried Carlyle Café and couldn't fell really great about it, but then since Extra Virgin closed there isn't really a great "fine"

dining spot nearby. UNTIL I discovered THE CURIOUS GRAPE  (www.curiousgrape.com) hidden at 2900 S. Quincy Street actually behind Carlyle!

I always thought this was a wine store, but it is much more. It offers up a winse shop, cheeses, great food and a wonderful place to dine when art the theater nearby or just

to go out for a wonderful meal.

We had two servers introduced as Veronika and Katy, as Katy was in training. We perused the wonderful meanu offering many wines by the glass or bottle as well as many portions in 1/2 size; I love that for more tastes. Our friends were drinking a red sparkling HUBER Austrian Rose made from Zweigelt and Blaufrankisch which I quickly ordered a glass of and marveled at the dryness yet full fruit flavors in each sip.

Focaccia arrived with oil and after one tiny bite, I knew I could easily resist the bread; it was not their highlight for sure.

We perused the menu more and finally decided on numerous dishes for the fours of us.

Starters included ALBARINO-Steamed MAHONGONY CLAMS with house made Chorizo, English peas and Tomato Bread which was as tasty as clams get. My only quip is that the larger Mahogony clams, while very flavorful, can be chewier than the smaller Manila or Cherrystone varieties.

Warm BABY ARTICHOKES with Crispy Panko, mint and Red Chili is a dieter's delight as the dish is not fried, just served with crispy crumbs atop. The chokes are tender and the chili has a little bite; the mint is mild and makes for flavor as well.

Pan Roasted SCALLOPS with Black Rice, Baby Bok Choy is in Plum Wine Beurre Blanc and comes as a starter/half portion or full. The scallops were superb, the black rice divine and the sauce irresistible!

Fried GREEN TOMATOES are served with Bonito Tuna (salad style) with Pickled Ramp Mayo, Espelette Pepper & Spring Radish. This dish was another fab creation due to the ramp mayo that was so amazingly flavorful.

We first tried a 2012 Assyrtiko from Hatzidakis in Santorini that one of declared to be like sulphur! Instead a fun earthy and mineral-intense white COCCOCCIOLA 2011 from Terre Valse, Cantina Frentana in Abruzzo got us all excited about a new grape varietal. Suzanne McGrath is the wine person here and really knows her stuff.

 

Main courses were truly unbelievable, especially the 5 SPICE Pan-Roasted CHICKEN with Summer Squash, Pioppini Mushrooms and White Miso Chicken Jus which I declared one of the best restaurant chicken dishes on earth! The BRONZINO was just as sublime with Soffrito-Braised Greens, Creamy Cauliflower "Grits", Roasted Cauliflower, Verjus Soaked Raisins and Toasted Almonds. Every element here was a hit even down to the tasty "grits" which are made only with cauliflower and the crunchy almonds!

My DUCK LEG CONFIT came with "Creamed Corn," Piquillo Pepper and Grilled Tomato jus. The corn was grilled first then "creamed" but again with little no cream so that it was not too rich. The duck fell off the bone and was superbly cooked. I had a glass of 2008 Tempranillo from Sierra Cantabria in Rioja, Spain which is drinking beautifully now. This lasted through our shared cheese course as well.

 

You really can't come here without enjoying some cheese so we all decided to split one plate. we choose three:
CORNELIA from the Netherlansds which is a tangy coriander semi-hard goat

FROMAGE d'AFFINOIS is always a creamy rich French brie-like cheese that oozes

SHROPSHIRE BLUE is a brilliant blue that has a darker hue but also not too intense....it made me want to get on the plane to England, which I shall do later this week!

The plate was beautifully arranged with bread, olives, caperberry, nuts, dried fruit, berries and quince paste.

 

We had the pleasure of meeting Chef Joe Hornbeck who worked with Wes Morton of Art & Soul, whom I adore. He has been at The Curious Grape only for several months. I know it won't be that long before I return.

I do wish that since wine is so important here they took greater care in their glassware, as it is a bit thick and needs more delicacy. Lots of love went into choosing the plates, stainless and other items on the table, just not the glasses.

It can get very crowded in here as we were there on a Friday at 6pm when it was just filling up, but by 740pm, we had to search far and wide for our server to get the check and be at the theater on time; so do allow extra time if the place is full....

 

LEVANTE's is lovely for just about anything and everything in Dupont Circle(7-25-13)

Last night I took two dear clients and a performer (who happens to be Israeli) to LEVANTE's at 1320 19th St, NW (www.levantes.com) just south of Dupont Circle. I have never been to this superb Middle-Eastern/Eastern Mediterranean restaurant where the service is super friendly and food is varied and tasty.

As the weather was so gorgeous, the large outdoor patio was jammed. It was a bit windy and we opted to sit inside in one of the booths facing the somewhat open kitchen.

I perused the wine list and was excited to see Georgian wine on the menu and since it was offered by the glass our server John offered to bring us a taste.

Sadly one of the reds was gone so we tried the SUPERAVI '07 from Chateau Mukhrani in Kartli, Georgia which we all declared fabulous and similar to a very fruity medium bodied Pinot Noir. Later the owner came over to greet us and mentioned this wine was from near his hometown. This explains the fact that you see Georgian, Turkish, Greek and other Eastern Mediterranean specialties here on a really wonderful menu

that can make it hard to decide.

I suggested that we all share the COLD MEZZE APPETIZER as the hot one seemed to be overladen with some fried items (and I am still trying to watch the weight as I near our summer trip to Europe next week).

The platter was jam packed with Hommos, BabaGhanouj, Tsatziki, Olives, Feat Cheese, Dolma (Stuffed Grape Leaves), Shepherd's Salad(a simple cucumber, tomato type salad) and a slightly spicier salad called EZMESALAD which was a delight. There was warm pide bread (I was told this is the proper name for the slightly puffier than pita bread Turkish version--one of my guests is in Turkey regularly!) to mop up the various items on the plate and we left a spotless plate to go back to the kitchen. The variety and seasonings were great and we really had some time to peruse the menu for our entrée choices as well.

We had a variety of entrees from the SWORDFISH on SKEWERS with Arugula and Mixed veggies that our Israeli guest declared tasty and moist. The KOFTE was grilled ground lamb with tsatziki and the

BEYTI was a similar skewer with parsley, garlic and pepper. Our server John said the ADANA was the spiciest version of the same skewer and I loved the way it came laid on a long grilled piece of zucchini that matched the size of the lamb skewer. the meat was just past rare and absolutely divine and tasty. the spice level was not too hot and indeed the garlic on the BEYTUI was intense so my guest said she thought hers was a bit spicier! No matter we loved them all and the zucchini, peppers and veggies that come baked on the side.

No room for dessert, but a wonderful evening had by all!

 

 

ALEX & IKA in Cooperstown still offers an inventive menu (7-21-13)

For our last night we returned to downtown Cooperstown to ALEX & IKA's (www.alexandika.com) where the menu has not changed much in a year, but the food still remains great.

Samuel begged for the PORK DUMPLINGS starter for us all to share and these come with Seaweed Salad, which he now loves, and Wasabi Mayo which he does not. They were oh so fab.

I had the regular IKA's SWEDISH MARTINI, but they were out of Aquavit, so it was just Svedka Vodka with Lingonberry. Will had the Luka's Monster Margarita with Rancho Alegre Tequila, Cointreau,

Lime and Orange Juices. YUM.

I was going to start with the clams, but they ran out of that so I switched to the SEASAME NOODLE SALAD which is a great Asian/Green version of the traditional here loaded with Udon Noodles, Arugula, Cucumber, Toasted Peanuts and Carrot Ginger Kimchee with Sweet Tamari and Ginger Oil. Will and I split starters and I moved to his TUNA TATAKI, another huge delightful portion with Coriander Seared AHI,

Kimchee, Sweet Tamari, Ginger Oil and Pickled Ginger. Each element was great and together it was a treat.

We ordered a bottle of Vernaccia di San Gimignano 2009 from Terruzi & Puthod which was a great pairing; I was surprised how good the 4 year old vintage was.

Samuel had a plain burger and fries for his main course and it was a tasty one; he didn't even want ketchup!

Will ordered the Fish Tacos with Fried Cod, Roasted Corn Salsa, Lettuce, Tomato, Avocado and Chipotle Aioli with Lime Wedges and we decided again to split entrees.

Mine was the TANDOORI Roast LAMB SPARE RIBS with Dry Rub, Tamarind Glaza and Wasabi Dip which only suffered from a bit too much fat. Next time, I'll go with the leaner meat!

Paper napkins don't work with this type of food and a finger bowl was truly missing!

A glass of PETITE SYRAH from CONCANNON helped with this dish and Will's tacos were paired with the Cotes du Rhone Blanc from Le Plan Classic 2010.

 

Off we went, very full to pack for our trip home and our next adventure...

when in Cooperstown alwyas bring me back to the Blue Mingo(7-20-13)

On our extended weekend here in Cooperstown, NY for this year's Glimmerglass Festival for operas and shows, we have dined at the theater most often taking advantage of the patron gatherings there. Last night we took the Young Artist we were sponsoring to dinner and the four of us had a grand time as the storms had passed and the temps had dropped from 90 to 75. We dined on the porch and it was one of the best meals we have ever had there.

Will started with a BOSSA-MINGO made from Absolut Peach, Cachaca Brazilian Rum, Grapefruit, Lemon, Lime and Fresh Local Mint. I tasted a NY State white from Red Tail Ridge in the Finger Lakes called Good Karma which was a Riesling/Chardonnay which was a bit too sweet for me, so we moved on to a bottle of St. Supery Napa Sauvignon Blanc 2012 that is intense in citrus, especially lemon and goes well with many of the starters as well.

A basket of hot Pecan Cinnamon Rolls arrived and they were gone almost instantly!

Samuel ordered up the GOLDEN POTSTICKERS of chicken in a lemongrass and soy broth. Nobody else could get near this dish for a taste as it seemed to disappear before it even appeared.

Will had the CALAMARI and was a bit distraught when it came fried (the preparation was not indicated and he did not ask) with Sea Salt, Red Pepper and a tasty Garlic Lemon Pesto. It was crispy and tasty, though.

Both Andrew and I had the excellent French Country SALAD which was a huge plate of superb baby greens withe of  sour apples, candied walnuts, dried cranberries, crumbly bleu cheese in a warm bacon vinaigrette.

An indulgence none of us needed, but we all partook of was a plate of the famous housemade potato chip drizzled with gooey tasty balsamic and doused with crumbly blue cheese....these are to die for.

The only thing we did not like was the silly round plates that were at our places having oval appetizer plates placed on them that just wobbled to no end.

 

Our server Kristi indulged me when we wanted to taste some red wines and I first tried the Long Island (NY) BEDELL CELLARS First Crush Red 2009 made from 82% Merlot and 18% Cab Franc which was tasty, but not too big. We then tasted an Abadia Retuerta Seleccion Especial which tasted totally off and then ended up ordering the Primus Carmenere 200, which they were out of. After all that, we ordered a bottle of the BEDELL which actually worked best with Will's PANANG SHRIMP CURRY (he ordered it medium heat, but it comes, mild or hot as well). It was aso a nice pairing with Andrew's half rack of MINGO BABY BACK RIBS which he declared delicious with Pineapple Ginger BBQ sauce, Shoestring Fries & Slaw.

After we had just finished our starters, we asked Kristi to hold the mains, but alas, my fault, it was too late and out they came.

I stared at my excellent RACK OF LAMB for a while and just ate slowly savoring every little double rack (there were FOUR double chops!) and the meat in-between! The medium-rare lamb had a Moroccan rub, a moist tasty Tomato Coucous and a divine Minted Yogurt Cheese with Cucumber and Vinegar that was mild and a foil to the spices in the rub (that were not intense, just fully rounded).

Samuel went for the simple kid's meal BOW TIES with Butter Sauce after filling up o n those yummy potstickers.

None of us could face dessert, but Will ordered a slice of White Chocolate Cheesecake to take home which he later declaimed to be "cheesecake."

 

We love the atmosphere at the Mingo and always return each year to superb cuisine and excellently prepared meals.

Hawley, PA.'s got good food I say at the GRILLE ROOM at Woodloch Springs (7-17-13)

Each year we head north to Cooperstown, NY for the Glimmerglass (opera) Festival and we decided to stop halfway for a night on the way this time. 

Woodloch Springs Resort is an amazing monstrous complex in the middle of nowhere offering everything for everybody from adult spa to family camp.

We stayed at Woodloch Springs which is a golf community with only private/rental homes which is magnificent. The dining room there is the Vista Room

or The Grille Room (same menu, just more of a bar feel with big screen TV's, etc.)-www.woodloch.com/grilleroom.

Chef Ryne Spaulding does an amazing job preparing tasty foods and the young summer workers are really friendly, cheery and helpful.

The wines are all under $40 for the most part and we loved an $18 bottle of Las Rocas de San Alejandro 2012 Rose from Calatayud, Spain that was oh

so refreshing in the 90 degree heat that we had a second bottle of the same.

Samuel started with the EDAMAME POST STICKERS with Porcini Mushrooms (he skipped those), Soy Sauce Broth and Micro Greens which were gone in seconds.

Will and split two starters both of which were so huge they could have been a main course:

STEAMED MUSSELS were juicy and plump in a very mild fennel, onion and Roasted Tomato broth with EVOO that was superby flavorful, but we avoided mopping it up with the

large grilled bread that came with it(still trying to watch calories and count carbs!)

TUNA "NACHO" is a huge pile ofsushi grade Yellowfin TUNA with Wakame(Seaweed) Salad, Ginger, Wasabi, Teriyaki & Tobiko Caviar with fried wontons. We skipped the wontons, which were not that great

anyway, but the overall flavor of the dish was superb and the spice was nice but not overpowering. A super refreshing dish to boot.

For mains, Will and I split the super excellent and almost all meat LOBSTER-CRAB CAKES with Avocado Lime Mousse, Pico de Gio and Tortilla which we declared to be of the quality we find in DC,

and the TUNA cooked rare with Sesame Crust, Edamame Hummus, Lemon Grass Rice Pilaf and Soy Ginger Broth was another hit and could easily have fed a couple!

Samuel loved his FREE BIRD CHICKEN with Grilled Vegetable Ravioli, Kalamata Olive Tapenade, Fresh Mache Salad, Crispy Pancetta and Lemon- Pepper Vinaigrette which only

suffered a bit from being too dry. He loved it all.

He followed this up with the "GOOEY" FUDGE BROWNIE, Vanilla Ice Cream, Whipped Cream & Caramel Sauce for Dessert, while Will had the LEMON MERINGUE ICE
CREAM PIE with Graham Cracker Crust and Lemon Vanilla Ice Cream, which I tasted (it was good) but resisted.

We loved everything here and know we have a great place to stay now on our annual trips.

Shirlington's (Arlington, VA) Carlyle Grand isn't that grand anymore, but the food still finsihes first (7-14-13)

Last night after attend the fantastic new musical SPIN at Signature Theater we took one of the leads and her husband to dinner at CARLYLE GRAND (http://www.greatamericanrestaurants.com/carlyle/) down the street where I had easily not been in well over a decade. It was one of the few places still serving food on a  Sunday at 10pm, and it was a very enjoyable evening, for the most part.

 

We settled in to a tasty super citrus-y refreshing bottle of CLOUDY BAY 2011 SAUVIGNON BLANC which I always adore; it's even better when the temps are in the high 80's!

Orders went in and after a while our server returned to apologize she was out of the LOBSTER ROLLS and then 9after we had all ordered ) mentioned the special! Instead, I chose the PECAN CRUSTED TROUT in '

their ORIGINAL Chardonnay Citrus Sauce with Lemon Dressed Arugula. Instead of the sweet potato fried, I opted for the evening's "special" veggie of Parmesan Broccolini. The dish was top notch as was

the Parmesan & Herb Crusted FLOUNDER with Creamy Mashed Cauliflower and Lemon Caper Butter which both our guests raved about.

Will ordered one appetizer and after I had "re-placed" my order the manager came over to say they were out of the Beet Salad and apologized, but he did not have a menu in hand so Will could choose a replacement. These were the silly things that went wrong and really are not necessary. Will chose the Warm GOAT CHEESE & Spiced PECANS Salad with Field Lettuces, Sundried Cranberries, Dates, Tomato and Balsamic Vinegar which was very nice as well as the very tasty (he said one was super spicy) TUNA TACOS which actually is a sushi tuna on Jicama "taco" slice with Guacamole and Cilantro.

While everything was tasty the kid's meal of Penne and Tomato Sauce that Samuel had tasted dreadfully bland and boring and had a lack of sauce for sure.

Otherwise, we did very well and headed home happy, probably not to return there for another decade, or maybe less....

 

The National Press Club's Fourth Estate is for everyone, but not for everything (7-12-13)

Ever since Chef Jim Swenson left the Fourth Estate on the top floor of Washington's ever-famous National Press Club, I think things have fallen into a slump

inventive-wise here. We were invited for a wonderful dinner on Friday night and came away feeling that while everything tasted fine, the food needed a bit of something more.

Our service was excellent and even the tasty garlic butter served with the bread makes an impression.

The wine list is simple and reasonable for sure with almost everything under $40 a bottle.

We had a Domaine de la Saraziniere Macon0Bussieres 2008 which was a crisp steely French chardonnay with a hint of oak.

It was very nice with the SMOKED SALMON which comes on two pieces of toasted French bread with Horseradish Sour Cream Capers and Onions.

For starters the salads were plentiful if plain. BABY SPINACH Salad with Strawberries and a couple of Mozzarella Balls (they seemed to be like those from a jar),

came with not very SPICY PECANS. The dressing was a simple and bland vinaigrette. ARUGULA, WATERCRESS and Cilantro-Marinated MUSHROOMS (pickled) with Goat Cheese

came with peppered Almonds and seemed to fare better.

The hit was the SHRIMP COCONUT SOUP that our host mopped up with the bread!

 

Samuel enjoyed the CHICKEN FINGERS & FRIES (he will be off this kid's menu thing soon!) although he did not like the fact that the batter had sesame seeds in it.

 

Three of us ordered the JUMBO LUMP CRAB Cakes which were excellent huge cakes with no filler with a Red Pepper-Mango Salsa that needed a punch The dish was complemented

by awesome Battered & Fried GREEN BEANS with chunks of FETA; this is a hit side dish I would go back for.

The Seared DUCK BREAST came with Wild Rice, Cashew Ginger Salad, Avocado Dumplings and Orange-Mango Salsa (again no spice on this salsa).

The service was constant and attentive and everyone kept asking if we were happy, and for the most part, we were, I just wanted some spice in my food.

 

Same loved the BROWNIE with Chocolate Sauce for dessert and I adored the simple PANNA COTTA with Pomegranate Seeds, that came with no seeds but loads of fresh BERRIES.

The WARM PEAR with WALNUT CRISP and Vanilla Ice Cream was also a treat.

 

In a nutshell, I would recommend the Fourth Estate if you are taking someone who needs simple food, no spices and seeks a truly simple, yet very quiet (the sound level here is basically nil)

ambiance.

 

 

Alexandria's BRABO gets mutliple bravos and new Chef Harper McClure will allure (7-3-13)

Yes we were bad on our diet last night, but then a rare indulgence seems to allow the diet to reinforce :-))

 

We had planned to go to BRABO by Robert Wiedmaier for years and just never got there. I forced myself to make a visit to the adorable LORIEN Hotel in Alexandria

which houses the restaurant allowing me to do a site visit of their accommodations and then take in dinner at BRBAO (www.braborestaurant.com) right on King Street

just blocks from the Metro. They also have complimentary valet parking for diners, something you don't find too much any more!

 

We knew Chef Harper McLure had left the Federalist last year shortly after our visit to move to Marcel's, but we were thrilled to see that Chef Wiedmaier trusts him enough to let him helm this superb fine dining establishment. He is joined by Pastry Chef Jennifer Short and Sommelier Matthew Carroll with a wonderful team including our server Greg.

 

Another bonus here is the unlimited pours of bottled water from the Vivero system (either flat or fizzy) at $2.00 per person.

We perused the drink menu and Will chose a Gin Gimlet (they specialize in gin cocktails) made with Bluecoat Gin, fresh lime and simple syrup. My TOMMY's MARGARITA (named for

the one of San Francisco fame, we were told) was heavy on the ice and not very big, but tasty with Herraduro Blanco Tequila, Lime & Agave Syrup.

 

The bread was fine, but we avoided it for the most part and the butter seemed to be covered with salt, which was the only problem we encountered all night!

After much procrastination we agreed on the tasting menu of seven (plus) courses at $70 each with wine pairings for an extra $50, which at $120 each is a real deal these days.

Will was craving the GRILLED SPANISH OCTOPUS, so we had Chef Harper squeeze in a small plate of that along the way.

 

All of the items on the tasting menu are new for Brabo from Chef Harper's cookbook and the entire menu will be overhauled this Saturday night.

 

First came a GAZPACHO CONSOMME that I could have eaten for days and taken home gallons of. A clear tomato consommé bursting with flavor and chilled perfectly for a 90 degree day was

garnished with Confit Cherry Tomato, a tiny square of CUCUCMBER PANNA COTTA with a slice of Boquerón ANCHOVY atop, a flowering mini cucumber and Espalette Pepper for spice.

The pairing was ingenious as tomato acidity is so hard to do: STEININGER GRUNER VELTLINER SEKT 2010 from Kamptal, Austria was a sparkling version of the great fine Austrian white wine

that we drink so much of all summer.

 

GRILLED JUDITH POINT CALAMARI was on the menu at the Federalist and reappears here with a Roasted GARLIC PUREE, CIPOLLINI ONION and a HARISSA AIOLI that shows Chef Harper

is not afraid of using intense spices. The onion was topped with an edible nasturcium flower petal and Red Mustard Greens adorned the dish which was as tender as squid can get.

ABAZZIA di NOVACELLA from Alto Adige 2010 in Italy is a Sylvaner Grape that has an unripe honeydew flavor and again paired wonderfully. With each bite, the wine changed and Will got more creaminess,

while I got citrus and acidity!

 

Here we veered to the GRILLED SPANISH OCOTPUS with Fingerling Potatoes, Piquillo Peppers, Olive Oil & Balsamic Glaze which was the dish with the most spice all evening, yet treated the tender octopus with great respect. Our server Greg, brilliantly if I may say so, suggested we split a glass of the BURGANS ALBARINO 2011 from Spain that was just right to fight the spice. I could not help remarking that I had discovered that Chef Harper did not have a fear of spice, despite the fact that his cooking style is so traditional, yet so wonderfully American and novel.

 

SEARED DIVER SCALLOP brought us back to the tasting menu served with a light Sweet CORN RISOTTO with Mascarpone and Lemon Butter. This was the dish we feared the most for on our diet, but it

was handled with care and perhaps Chef Harper lightened it a bit for us with consideration. No matter, the flavors were simply superb and the MESTRE-MICHELOT, Domeain de Montmeix, 2009 Chardonnay

from Burgundy was a treat. The top of the scallop was cooked just to a super crisp and the inside was just right and Red Vein Sorrel graced the dish.

 

LA BELLE FARMS SQUAB came just past rare with a Roasted Breast touched lovingly with Maldon Sea Salt, moist & luscious yet crispy confit leg, Pearl Barley, Epazote & Cherry-Rhubarb Jus that was not sweet at all. The wine was a virgin treat for

us as it was our first one from SERBIA: FRANCUSKA VINARIJA 2009 "Obecanje" is from Rodljevo and is made from Grenache but has a soft and smooth in the mouth finish like a good Burgundy Pinot Noir.

 

The last meat course was ECO FRIENDLY FOODS PORK LOIN served with a Summer Cassoulet, Chanterelle Mushroom & Pork Jus. The Michele Laluce "Zimberno" AGLIANICO from Basilicata, Puglia 2007

was not a typically spicy (like Zinfandel) Aglianico and we liked it a lot.

 

The cheese course was BURRATA with Balsamic Glaze and garlic Croutons which comes from Murgella also in Puglia and was creamy rich and everything burrata needs to be.

 

RASPBERRY SOUP with Mint Sorbet & Crème Bavarois is the perfect light and refreshing dessert after a meal like this that lasted 3 hours. Genius was at work as I normally do not like mint, and it was simply sublime here.

Elio Perrone "Bigaro", a sparkling BRACHETTO/MOSCATO 2012 from Piemonte is also as refreshing as it gets. Lots of love went into thinking how to do a large yet not overindulgent tasting menu in the heat of a DC summer.

 

We were treated to Chocolate Caramel Squares Walnut Cherry Brownie, Pate de Fruit, and an unexciting Lemon Spritz Cookie before heading home praying that the scales did not explode today (and we each only gained ONE POUND!)

Back on the diet! HAPPY FOURTH OF JULY!

 

RAY's the STEAKS still raises the bar abit on steaks(6-27-13) in Arlington, VA

Yes,

After we ate that amazing meal at Daikaya, we headed to RAY's the STEAKS the next night, DESPITE the diets (raysthesteaks.com).

A while ago, Ray's moved from its humble first abode on Wilson Blvd. into a classy new pad about a 1/2 mile up the street actually on Calrendon

Blvd, but the address is 2300 Wilson Blvd. It's now classy with tall backed white leather chairs and excellent service. They even take reservations,

although they could not find mine (it seems the guy who took it spelled my name so awfully, nobody could make it out). It wasn't a problem, as people

are no longer lining up and trying to get in. There is still a more casual walk-in spot next door with a smaller, but impressive menu called Retro Rays.

 

We headed here as we were meeting a friend who chose the spot, and it was not a bad choice as long as we watched ourselves.

Spiced cashews arrive with bread (we did not touch it at all), and we munched the cashews as we ordered a bottle of very tasty BALL BUSTER SHIRAZ/CAB/MERLOT 2010 from Tait Wines

in Australia's Barossa Valley. I was looking at wines in the $50 range and our server Eric said that both he and many guests liked this $30-something wine, and he was on the spot.

Our friend raved about the CRAB BISQUE, but I refused a taste--THE DIET! Will and I instead SPLIT an appetizer of what was called DEVILISHLY GOOD EGGS and boy were they.

They actually had less mayo and fat than regular deviled eggs as these were stuffed with STEAK TARTARE and drizzled with Béarnaise Sauce....need I say more? The tartare was

superb and the fact that we split the order made us both feel better.

 

When one goes out for steaks the options are huge, bigger and monstrous. Will downsized with the 6 ounce (the regular is 9 ounces) FILET which he chose to have BLACKENED

with Cajun Spices, Spicy Diablo (Chipotle) Glaze, Garlic and a light weight, but spicy PIRANA Sauce. Our friend had the Classic NY STRIP which comes in 16 or 20 ounce sizes.

I decided to be adventurous and go for the 45 day DRY AGED T-BONE which gives me both the filet and strip for comparison, and plenty to take home after for a big steak salad tonight!

It was very tasty and I used only a smidgen of the pink peppercorn herbed butter that so make steaks come swimming in. Just right.

Here all main courses come served with CREAMED SPINACH & MASHED POTATOES Family Style. The potatoes were okay and the spinach was less rich than in many other steak joints we have been

to, which was truly appreciated. Sometimes it is smothered in cream cheese, which I find oh so overindulgent and excessive.

When we asked for our doggie bags, the bus boy even filled up the sides so we had more to take home for later! How nice.

 

Our friend insisted on ordering the DARK CHOCOLATE MOUSSE for dessert and we said we would have no more than a teeny spoonful. We kept our promise as it was so rich and smothered

with whipped cream, which nobody really needed. As we headed out the door with our doggie bags, our server Eric came running up the street as I had left my credit card behind; now that's good service.

 

 

DAIKAYA IZAKAYA is indeed the "in" place for DC dining and delicious dishes (6-26-13)

Have you searched for a place to eat when you are on a diet and after the meal regretted going out to eat?

As you may recall, we have been dieting recently and wanted to try one of DC's newest hot spots.
The neighborhood from Penn Quarter to Chinatown and now NoMa, is filling up with dining spots

and DIAKAYA is right in the center at 705 Sixth St, NW (www.daikaya.com) and is really two completely

separate dining experiences. Downstairs is the Ramen restaurant and upstairs is the IZAKAYA or Japanese

tavern where Chef Katsuya Fukushima reigns and creates delightful treats tapas-style to truly excite your taste buds.

 

We were worried about the high noise levels on arrival at 7:30pm, but the tables near us emptied out soon after and the din died

down. We were seated at the front of the restaurant facing the street (and the back of the Verizon Center) which is much quieter

than the center of the room or the rear closer to the bar. Upon being seated we were thrilled when our server Holly showed up and we remembered

her lovingly from our last and only visit to Bandolero in Georgetown (where the food was superb, but the noise levels beyond unbearable).

Holly was the perfect server at Bandolero guiding us through the huge menu and helping us to choose. Here at Daikaya, she really showed her

knowledge of Asian food, drink and ingredients. It made our dining experience one of the best we have had in DC in a long time.

 

Menus are presented staples in the pages of Japanese magazines which is oh so whimsical. My mag was a fashion type/catalog type which I really could not decipher

as so little was in English. Will's was all about tattoos!

 

Will started with a RICKEY-SAN Cockatial made from Hendricks Gin, Matcha Green Tea Soda, Yuzu and Lime which he liked a lot.

I decided to stick with sake and when I told Holly I was a big fan of Junmai Daiginjo, she suggested KAMOTSURU TOKUSEI GOLD, a Daiginjo  which comes in a small 180ml

bottle ($34), about 6 ounces, with a fleck of gold flake at the bottom--more whimsy. It is high in alcohol at 16.4% as sake is wont to be and full of earthy flavors with a hint

of watermelon. It is indeed a great sipping sake as an aperitif or with many of the dishes on the menu. After this we moved on to a large bottle of Unfiltered Sake (Nigori)

from KAMOIZUMU "Summer Snow", Ginjo named for its opaque unfiltered frosty white snow color. Holly told us that the Nigori water is considered the best in Japan, but what we loved about this sake was its

dark chocolate aftertaste. It is not sweet at all, nor rich, just a hint of chocolate, which worked especially well with some of our spicier dishes (think Riesling or red Zin). At $46 for 500ml (2/3 the size of a wine bottle) and 18.1% alcohol this would be our limit, and is the perfect larger sake bottle for a meal here.

 

I must add here that while we had an alcohol bill of about $100, our total food bill for 12 small shared plates was UNDER that amount, meaning we each ate for under $50.00!

 

The Izakaya menu is divided in sections and we proceeded pretty much in that order with two Cold Dishes to start:
House FERMENTED JAPANESE VEGETABLES can be ordered for $2.00 each or a small combo (which we had for $5) Napa Cabbage was the lest exciting of these,

yet the two pickled daikons were superb. Housemade NUKAZAUKE is a style of pickling that gives one flavor, while TAKUAN has a carrot-looking daikon fermented

in another style.

 

CUCUMBER SALAD is another pleaser, especially for the dieter or vegetarian, made with RAYU (a Japanese chili oil made from ramps) Vinaigrette, Crispy Garlic, Ground Sesame Seed and Chili threads.

I am not sure how these threads are made, but boy are they yummy giving just the right amount of medium spice to the dish where the cucumber is served sliced but arranged as a whole for a very

Yen feel.

 

UNIQUE Dishes are next on the menu and yes these were. FRIED GARLIC with KIMCHEE-MISO Sauce and Pickled Garlic has a similar taste and consistency to roasted garlic and is served with toothpicks

to pick up each clove and dip it into the tasty sauce which is not very kimchee spicy at all. It is another vegetarian treat that rings in with low calories as well.

WASABI OCTOPUS is one of the best treatments of the seafood and it is served raw cut into tiny pieces with Granny Smith Apple, Celery, California Arbequina Olive Oil and Wasabi Sprouts.
Again spice here is treated with great respect and the fish comes through winning.

 

GRILLED Dishes will also attract dieters as we adored the GRILLED AVOCADO with Housemade Ponzu, Fresh Wasabi and Nori Salt. Holly suggested we try the avocado alone first to appreciate the grilled style and it was a treat (new ideas for home grilling for sure!). We then added a bit of the (yes, not very spicy) wasabi and a dash of the nori salt, which is really a sea salt with flecks of seaweed. YUM!

 

JAPANESE EGGPLANT could win any non-eggplant person (we are two) over easily. It is served with a sesame-lamb sauce, Greek yogurt and mint and reeks of the Mediterranean.

While not for vegetarians, the small amount of lamb with the yogurt and fresh mint leaf make the most perfect and refreshing combination.

 

FRIED Dishes are less attractive to us dieters, but as we both adore Brussels Sprouts we could not skip the

PORK & BRUSSELS SPROUTS Skewer "Okonomiyake-style" with Kewpie mayo, Okonomiyaki sauce, Bonito Flakes and Aonori.

Aonori is a seaweed and Wikipedia describes Okonomiyaki is a Japanese savoury pancake containing a variety of ingredients. The name is derived from the word okonomi, meaning "what you like" or "what you want", and yaki meaning "grilled" or "cooked". Holly says they are often fried and made with cabbage. This was the winning dish of the night and at $6.00 for two large skewers, one of the best deals around town.

The pork and sprouts are alternated on the skewer giving the perfect flavor balance and the pork is a slightly fatty belly cut that just melts with each morsel.

 

The next group is BRAISED, SIMMERED & STEAMED DISHES from which we chose CHAWANMUSHI-a steamed egg and dashi custard with braised SHITAKE, Parmesan and ENOKI MUSHROOMS and is probably (other than the pork belly) the richest dish we had all evening, but a superb treat marrying the traditional Japanese custard with the Parmesan flavor and superb fresh mushroom morsels.

 

As soon as anyone mentions TONGUE, my face lights up and I know I have to order it. On the other hand, Will frowns and pouts, but he gave in to a special dish Holly spoke of which seemed like it had been a French/Asian afterthought, rather than a Japanese treat: BEEF TONGUE CURRY in a Vol Au Vent with Peas & Carrots brought the adorable pastry pot filled with delicate pieces of meat (cut up so that

Will not only loved it, but said he could eat it this way again!) and fresh peas (they are truly in peak season now) and carrots in a mild curry sauce. Even the pastry shell was perfectly made and delightfully flaky.

 

We still felt we could try a couple more plates and returned to the Unique Dishes for the "HAMBAGU" a Japanese-style WAGYU BEEF HAMBURGER Steak, which was nice, but our least favorite

dish of the evening, perhaps because it was indeed just a very flavorful burger. We went on to the next section on the menu of RICE & NOODLE DISHES for the

COD ROE SPAGHETTI with American Caviar, Nori, Chervil & Cream Sauce which is a small and not too rich portion, so that the cream sauce would not add a lot of fat to our already large dinner.

It was a superb noodle dish making us want to return for the ramen downstairs very soon.

 

We tried one dessert: PURIN with CARAMEL ICE, Orange, Purin Espuma & Burnt Orange Zest. The simple custard dish was slightly frozen and perfectly refreshing as a palate cleanser after our superb meal.

Holly was approaching our table with Chef Fukushima who is an enchanting fellow with a wonderful background from all over the world, and I, for one, would go anywhere he is cooking, as this was indeed

a great dining experience from top to bottom and in every aspect. Thanks to Chef, Holly and the wonderful staff for making it so great.

 

On a final note, after dieting for almost two whole months, when I weighed myself yesterday, I was at the lowest I have been in about 5 years (my goal is to drop to 150lbs. where I was when I turned 50).

Upon hitting the scale this morning, I had not gained AN OUNCE! WOW, that says even more about this meal!

 

 

Roberta Donna is doing it at AL DENTE deliciously (6-23-13)

You all know what a fan I am of Chef Roberto Donna, as I have known him for well over two decades and been to so many of his restaurants

over the years with such great pleasure each time. A year ago he opened around the corner from our home at what was then called La Forchetta, which

has been re-christened AL DENTE (aldentedc.com) and it is one of our hottest neighborhood spots these days with a variety of relaxed dining options from pizza

to pasta to fine Italian cuisine.

On arrival, there is always a warm welcome from longtime manager Karen who has been with Roberto for ages as well. She always smiles and always

makes sure everything runs smoothly.

Sunday night, five of us settled into our table and tried a "limited availability" VIOGNIER 2011 "Maggie's" from Virginia's Delaplane Cellars and it was oh so

fabulous. Virginia wines are being featured alongside the Italian selections, as well as others, and it's quite an impressive selection. We did switch to an Italian

BARBERA "Tasmorcan" 2011 from Ellio Perrone and this was a budget wine with quite an intensity for a Barbera. Be sure to check with your server. We had lots of fish dishes and wanted a lighter red, this was nice, but quite big as I said.

Our server Maja was very sweet and gave us plenty of time and handled everything with finesse. When my starter of MARINATED ARTICHOKES, Preserved ITALIAN TUNA, Castelvetrano Olives, Hard Boiled Eggs, Imported ANCHOVIES and Frisee arrived with no anchovies, she immediately delivered a plate of them. The dish is excellent and bursts with flavor from the tiny red peppers that are no bigger than your pinky nail!

Other starters were the Fried CALAMARI with Three sauces off Garlic Saffron, Green (Pesto) and Hot Spicy Tomato which is indeed HOT & SPICY. The batter is perfect and not a shred of greasiness

comes near the dish. BABY SPINACH SALAD with Pancetta, Pears, Walnut & Ricotta is a huge portion easily meant for more than one person. The ASAPARGUS Salad with hard Boiled Egg Dressing and the GRILLED ASPARAGUS with Garlic and Olive Oil are both lighter fare bursting with flavor.

The only real problem we had during the evening was when the bus boy cleared the table of these plates he lifted my fork and knife and proceeded to pile the plates together while the fork dripped dressing (it missed my lap by about 1/2 inch!).

Super warm pita-like focaccia and bread come to the table with Olive Oil as well and we were all very good about resisting these.....

 

Main courses varied with FARRO Whole Grain FETTUCCINE with Sweet Basil, Locally Grown Cherry Tomatoes, Garlic and Olive Oil being a superbly made pasta but needing a bit more punch in the seasoning.

This was indeed solved with some fresh Parmesan. PAPPARDELLE with Wild BOAR Ragu Braised and vegetables is always a big hit and a long time Chef Donna favorite; a bit more sauce would have been ideal.

BAKED FILET of GROUPER with Fennel, Potatoes, Orange Basil and Green Olives was a hit as was the super yummy side dish of BAKED EGGPLANT PARMIGIANA with Tomato, Basil & Mozzarella oozing over the top.

As is wont, my dish was the big winner and I can't get enough of SOFT SHELL CRABS which here are battered and sautéed and served over fresh SPINACH in a Lemon & Almond Sauce rife with slivered almonds. This reminded me of my first soft shells when I was a teen in the now long gone A LA FOURCHETTE in NYC (odd that Al Dente was previously "La Forchetta," the same name in Italian), which

got me hooked on the dish my mother loved best all summer.

 

Some Limoncello finished off a wonderful evening with friends and we made a promise to return soon with Samuel when he gets back from camp!

Little RICKY's in DC's Brooklyn neighborhood is cute, Cuban and cool (6-15-13)

We were invited to join our dear friends (one of whom is Cuban) at
Little Ricky's the other night and boy did we have fun (http://
www.littlerickysdc.com). Located near Catholic University in the
Brooklyn neighborhood, this is an up and coming area that oozes cute
and neighborhood. Little Ricky's refers to Ricky Riccardo and has old
50's and 60's photos and some of the menu items refer to Lucy, Ricky,
Fred & Ethel, but that's about where it ends. It's an eclectic
combination of décor with modern art for sale as well in a simple room
with a staff made up of folks from everywhere. Our server, Adiil, from
Morocco, oozed charm as he called us darling, sweetheart and honey! As
I said, it was all fun.
We started with various drinks and I enjoyed a huge MOSCOW MULE made
with Ginger Beer, Vodka & Lime, all for $5.00. The drinks are
reasonably priced and the CUBA FRESCA- a red Sangria made with fresh
blue berries and raspberries comes by the glass or pitcher. Even the
wines here are good with a TINTONEGRO Malbec 2011 from Mendoza having
a huge smoky flavor that goes so well with the red meats.

We shared lots of starters from the huge CEVICHE de MARISCOS with
Plantain Chips. It is chock full of fish, mango and a slash of mayo
for sauce to the SPINACH EMPANADAS which come with two tasty salsas.
CROQUETAS de JAMON also come with the same sauces and are loaded with
rich béchamel in a fried shell, but don't taste of the ham too much.
SOUTH TO CUBA is probably the best deal and biggest hit with a stack
of FREID GREEN TOMATOES, Mini-CRABCAKE and their Signature COMEBACK
SAUCE; it's a great salad and appetizer combo. I loved the spear of
pickled carrots and peppers that come with some of the dishes as well.
All the main courses come with RICE & BEANS and Fresh Peas as well in
this season. We chose a number of different ones and Samuel was
thrilled with his very tasty HandMade 8 ounce Ground Chuck Burger
which comes with Corn Salsa and Seasoned Fries (instead of the rice &
beans). Will went for the CUBAN POLLO Enceballado, a fried battered
chicken breast. The GAMBAS al AJILLO are large Tiger Shrimp sautéed in
garlic & white wine, but the dish is very heavy on the butter side.
MASA de PUERCO FRITAS as slow roasted pork morsels flash-fried at the
end; be sure to temper these with a spray of fresh lime juice and
don't be afraid to ask for extra limes-they come with a big smile.
The ROPA VIEJO was nice, but a bit chewy for me, though the tomato,
garlic and wine sauce was superb. My PICADILLO was one of the best
with tender beef in and olive and wine sauce.
If you seek dessert and love TRES LECHES, try it here, but I had only
one bite as I was way past full and my diet had been wrecked beyond
recognition. OOPS!
For sure, Little Ricky's deserves more visits, even if just for a
quickie burger!

last night at LIA's in Bethesda was luscious (5-26-13)

The three of us headed to LIA's in Bethesda last night to use a "coupon" we had purchased at a charity event for a multi-course dinner and we had a superb dining experience at this wonderful local spot. You may recall it is under the auspices of the Chef Geoff group (www.chefgeoff.com), but here the kitchen is run by famed local Italian chef Cesare Lanfranconi, who was off for the day. Heading up the kitchen staff was Chef Liz Clifford, Executive Sous Chef, who indeed know how to run the show well.
We sat down to a special plate of SWEET CORN SOUP with a tasty MINI-CRAB CAKE and basil puree that was silky, luscious and divine. The "VA" Syrah Rose from Vina Aljibes 20011 in Castilla y Leon, Spain was the perfect dry wine for a just getting warm day (well, it's about time!). The crusty bread (which Samuel loved and I only tasted) arrived with olive oil for dipping.
We started with a plate of excellent WHITE ANCHOVY FILETS with Arugula and Olive Oil that were cured to perfection and I can only look forward to more as the summer goes on. YAY-BOQUERONES, and we hope to have them even fresher in Portugal and Spain in August!
Samuel ordered the SPAGHETTI & MEATBALLS in the adult portion with Basil, Marinara, Ricotta and Grana Padana grated all over the top (of course, he asked for extra part way through) and managed to finish about 75% of the huge portion.
Our server Toby suggested the excellent HEIRLOOM TOMATO SALAD with Lime-Cilantro Vinaigrette (didn't she mention there was a crabcake with that?, but maybe we got it instead in that superb soup!) which was as fresh as it can get with the spring veggies in full bloom. The BEET & BLOOD ORANGE Salad with Goat Cheese croutons & Pickled Shallot Vinaigrette was another example of how easy it is to enjoy this season. Only the crouton itself (a plain white crunchy cube) was dispensable, while we slathered the goat cheese on the beets!

Our appetizer (that was the course, after the salads and soup!) courses were the special of the evening, a Polenta crusted SOFT SHELL CRAB on Spring SUCCOTASH of Corn, Cherry Tomatoes, Onion, Asparagus in a Morel Mushroom Sauce. The succotash and sauce were super, and again showed that veggies here are the rule; sadly the crab itself while good and crunchy lacked flavor.
The other starter was a huge winner and could easily be eaten as a main course:
PORK BELLY PUPUSAS are huge flat "tortilla" style pupusas stuffed with tasty pulled-pork style filling with a tasty (not spicy) TOMATILLO SAUCE on the side for dipping and another veggie king for LIA's the CABBAGE SLAW on the side.
We had these with two glasses of LIOCO NOCO 2011 North Coast, California NO OAK CHARDONNAY that had very little flavor or excitement.

The manager, Dawn, who was a pleasure to talk to about the wine (we should have asked her for a glass recommendation on the chardonnay--too late) suggested a spectacular PETITE SIRAH 2009 from Fleur, also on California's North Coast. While listed in the "big opulent wine" section, this superb wine has a subtle silkiness that makes it a great wine to drink alone or enjoy with heavier or even lighter foods.
We enjoyed it with our pasta course. Toby had suggested the WILD MUSHROOM RAVIOLI with Cherry Tomato, Arugula and Truffle Pecorino that was a heavenly dish, clearly from the ingenuity of Chef Cesare's Italian roots.
We were getting full and chose to take most of the also excellent BLACK PEPPER PAPPARDELLE home which won me over for not the tasty Basil Chicken, but the crunchy RAPINI and Rose Sauce. I can't wait to eat this later in the week, although, my diet will hate me! It was yet another example of how the great seasonal veggies are making their arrival.

Will and I split an entrée portion of excellent fresh and flavorful Pan Seared SCALLOPS with ENGLISH PEAS (more fresh veggies), Leeks, Truffle Pea Puree and Popcorn Shoots. These were early sweet corn shoots on top of this (or perhaps another dish) and Samuel was not interested in trying them, but after a bit of coaxing he did, and insisted on having the rest of the bunch! Again, another star of a dish with beautiful blending of all the great ingredients.

Samuel had already ordered the FLOURLESS CHOCOLATE CAKE with Pistachio Ice Cream for dessert and gobbled up all the cake as we split the hot out of the fryer RICOTTA DONUTS with luscious LIMONCELLO CURD (bravo again, Chef Cesare).
We were full, but our holiday weekend splurge was indeed special!

Baltimore's BLACK OLIVE has only one bump and some best bites (5-19-13)

For my birthday after attending the Baltimore Lyric Opera yesterday, I
chose BLACK OLIVE in Fells' Point (www.theblackolive.com) which serves
up some fine Greek food in a very nice setting to boot. It is classy
and a bit pricey, but we all had a great time.
Will and I started with a glass of Domaine Sigalsa Assyrtiko White
2011 which was, as most Greek wines, crisp and refreshing and SUPERB
with both our shared starters of TARAMASALATA and GRILLED OCTOPUS
SALAD with red onions and capers. The tarama was rich, creamy and
divine, truly a gift for the Greek gods at least. The bread was a
wheat crusty type of bread, not your traditional pita, and was tasty
as well. An herb oil with sesame seeds was also a big hit, especially
with Samuel.

Samuel had the RACK OF LAMB and they had the nerve to charge $5 to
substitute cous-cous (which comes with many dishes) for the
cauliflower! No matter, he devoured two and a 1/2 of the tasty moist
meaty chops seasoned perfectly.
Will and I had a bottle of tasty red after he rejected the first taste
of 2011 Teselepas Aghiorghitiko Nemea as too perfumey. The 2007
Manosakis Nostos from Crete did arrive chilled, which I really did not
like. The blend of Syrah, Mourvedre, Grenache and Rousanne is a Rhone-
style but with a Greek intensity.
Will and I split two main dishes. The hit was the RACK of LAMB and
GRILLED SHRIMP COMBO which came with 4 gorgeous chops and three huge
tastily seasoned moist shrimp. The Grilled Cauliflower was also
excellent with a dash of olive oil and seasonings that were just
right.
Sadly, the dud was the LAMB KLEFTIKO, pieces of gristly, overcooked
lamb in a parchment with a superb sauce of lemon, Kefalograviera
cheese and herbs. It is a shame the loving care for the rack missed
this dish totally when it came to destroying most of the meat into dry
chewy cubes. The couscous (which it came with) was wonderful with the
lemony-cheesy sauce!

It was my birthday, so an orange slice topped with a scoop of vanilla
ice cream arrived with a candle in it surrounded by blueberries, apple
slices and other fruit. It was a cute touch, but I skipped the ice
cream as I am still trying to diet. Instead, Will and I sought to try
a scoop of the BAKLAVA ICE CREAM, the menu saying it was conceived and
created here. Well, it tasted more like cinnamon (which Will does not
like) ice cream with some cookie pieces for crunch. Samuel loved his
REINE DE SABA, but at first he wanted nothing as he chose to look
at only the names and not the descriptions. Upon reading he discovered
it was a Flourless Belgian Chocolate Cake with roasted Hazelnuts and
Chocolate Ganache. He gobbled up the cake, but oddly left the sweet
icing.

It was extra nice that at the end of our main course, the owner, a
sweet older Greek guy, came over to check if all was okay. We did not
have the heart to tell him about the lamb in the one dish. I would go
back if I happen to be in the neighborhood, but would not drive to
Baltimore to eat there, although he did tempt us with his recipe for
soft shell crabs, which he said he had run out of that night! TOO BAD!

take me to ANCORA again and again (Kinkead's reborn) 5-16-13

Last night the three of us headed to Chef Bob Kinkead's new hotspot just across from the Kennedy Center.(www.ancoradc.com)

ANCORA is Italian for "again" and this is indeed a place you can return to again and again with a huge varied menu of starters, pastas, fish and meats.

There is something for everyone and an Italian-centric wine list with many reasonable choices under $40 as well.

Ancora moved into the Watergate two months ago where the late Rivers was, and what a welcome departure that was. I ate there once, and attended a reception

once and the food was overpriced and awful, for the most part. While the present incarnation of ANCORA is considered a "pop-up," the place will close

at the end of the year for a complete gutting and reopening in early 2014 if all goes well. It should be MAGNIFICENT.

Next door, where Cuppa Cuppa closed just days ago, Chef Kinkead will open a pizza, sandwich, and more outlet that is sure to be jammed with

Kennedy Center attendees looking for a quick bite before or after a show!

 

We saw many of the old faces from Kinkead's, so that was a warm welcome to begin with, especially, since Will worked there for so many years.

We sat down to a crisp refreshing bottle of San Quirico VERNACCIA di SAN GIMIGNANO 2011 that was superb with our starter of

MOLECHE e GAMBERETTI, a gorgeous chick pea flour crusted Soft Shell CRAB (first of the season) with Shrimp, Capers, Lemon,

Cherry Tomatoes, Parsley and Cauliflower. The preparation was perfect, the crabs superb and even Samuel adored the tasty lemon sauce.

Samuel had the RIGATONI alla MATRICIANA which came with plump tomatoes in the sauce (which he did not like-but were fresh and tasty), pancetta, onion,

olives and pecorino. A good douse of parmeggiano and he was in heaven. It was a medium size portion as the pastas are meant as a separate course, so he asked for

another plate, but switched to the rich and divine SPAGHETTI all CARBONARA di Fabriano which was made with pancetta, sausage, egg and parmesan.

 

For the main course, Will had the PESCE SPADA, plain grilled SWORDFISH with yummy Fried Zucchini and Marinated Fresh Cherry Tomatoes. My CONIGLIO BRASATO

was RABBIT prepared two ways with a leg on one said braised with Fava beans and peas and the Loin on the other layered with Cherignola Olive slices. A tasty huge bulb of

spring onion was also braised on the side.

 

It's hard to resist desserts at Kinkead's, so the same goes here, Will had ANCORA's PANNA COTTA which is a honey vanilla flavor smothered with Strawberries and Rhubarb

and a Shortbread cookie.

I went for the cheese which was served with apple slices, grapes and two slices of nutty (pistachio?) dark chocolate which reminded me of a Dolce Torinese I made decades ago.

There were three crisp slices of grilled bread. I choose the hard tasty PECORINO SENESI TARFTUFO (with a hint of truffle), the yummy GORGOZOLA DOLCE, which was quite mild and the

divine LA TUR (Caselficio dell atta Langa) which can make any gooey cheese lover happy.

 

It was a great time and we can't wait to return!

Ellerbe Fine Foods is one of the finest in Ft. Worth (5-12-13)

Last night I took a friend to dinner at Ellerbe Fine Foods
(www.ellerbefinefoods.com) just south of downtown where I first went
three ago just after it opened. It took me a while to get back, but I
am so glad I did as this simple restaurant is concerned about food,
ingredients, quality and service above all else.
We started with a bottle of La Poussie Sancerre 2010 which has much
more citrus than most Sancerres and went wonderfully with the salad we
shared, Roasted BEETS and Market SPINACH Salad with Creamy Buttermilk
Dressing, Texas Citrus Powder, Chevre and Spiced Texas Pecans. On my
first visit here I remember having one of the best Heirloom Tomato
salads anywhere and this salad was just as amazing with all its fresh
and local ingredients.
My gust then had the SPRING CARROT SOUP with a dollop of Housemade
Crème Fraiche and Sumac on top. It was a superb soup and brilliantly
paired with the TEUTONIC GEWURTZTRAMINER 2012 "Crow Valley Vineyard"
from Oregon.  My House Cured GRAVLAX and DEVILED EGG was another
brilliant fresh treat with B&G Garden Asparagus, Mixed Lettuce, Dijon
Verjus Vinaigrette, Crispy Capers, Radish & Dill. I can't get enough
of these wonderful local treats.
The excellent baguettes are flown in fresh daily from LA's La Brea
Bakery and served with Plugra Butter and Red Hawaiian Sea Salt. We
moved on to a full bodied fruit forward yummy Pinot Noir from Oregon's
STOLLER Vineyard 2010 Dundee Hills which makes some of the best pinot
grapes sold to many other famous Oregon winemakers!
I had the superb rabbit last time and my guest raved about the Sherry
Braised RABBIT PAPPARDELLE again with B&G Garden Asparagus, Roasted
Mushroom, Cox Farm Green Garlic, Cream and Brown Butter Breadcrumbs. I
had a taste and agreed wholeheartedly. My Grilled DUCK BREAST was
cooked to perfection and crispy crunchy to boot with hedonistic Waco
MASCARAPONE GRITS and a Brandy Rhubarb Reduction.

In my previous visit, I had the amazing bread pudding, so my guest
choose  with Whisky Sauce and Pralined Texas Pecans that I assume is
the signature dessert to remain on the menu forever. I had the equally
tasty STRAWBERRY & RHUBARB Orange Blossom Anglaise with Brown Sugar
Whipped and Molasses Crisp.

We just had to have some cheese and the three small portions were
enough for us, but we really wanted a bit more of the superb Brushy
Creek Idaho Blue and the "Eden"- a Waco Triple Crème with Sorghum Leaf
and Vegetable Ash was also excellent Only the Manchego was a bore. A
nice small glass of 20 Year old Tawny Port was in order. The cheeses
came with Grilled Honey Bread and some peach and Pear Preserves.

Some small delicious DULCE di LECHE Cookies sent us on our way
home...very full, and me feeling very guilty after my month plus of
dieting!

LANNY's Alta Cocina Mexicana in Ft. Worth is modern cooking magnificently (5-10-13)

Upon arrival at the intimate, elegant and quiet LANNY's run now for 7
years by Chef Lanny P. Lancarte II (www.lannyskitchen.com) just west
of downtown I was overwhelmed by the many choices and simply could not
decide. Since I was pre-opera, I only had 90 minutes and a tasting
menu (which was divine) was out of the question. I settled into one of
the cozy dining areas (there is also a very nice patio) with beige
linen-covered tables and brown leather chairs.
I asked many questions of the several servers who assisted me and
finally decided on several tapas choices rather than an appetizer and
main course.

I started with the Baby LOLLA ROSA Salad, Roasted Heirloom BABY BEETS,
Red QUINOA, Tangerines and Paprika GOAT CHEESE. It was a superb salad
and also had some candied walnuts. The red quinoa is very small and
tended to stick to the plate, but I used the goat cheese to collect
the tiny grains. It was the perfect start to a great meal.
A glass of Jerome Gueneau "Le Clos Chartier" Sancerre 2011 from the
Loire was the perfect wine for the light vinaigrette. The wines are
served in C&S brand crystal that looks a lot like Riedel Vinum Extreme
modern glassware. Mini cheese bread loaves arrived steaming hot with a
divine Chimmichuri sauce that was loaded with cilantro and vinegar. I
also received (prior to the salad) a tiny tasty amuse of Medjool Date
with Goat Cheese in Spanish Chorizo. I loved the way it was served on
a very small fork tine with no stem, but instead an inverted "V" so
that the tines were facing up and you simply placed the mini-fork in
your mouth et voila.

I could not resist my second choice, and the Seared FOIE GRAS CHILE
RELLENO with Apaloosa Bean Puree was indeed the best thing I had last
night, not to mention one of the best foie gras dishes ever. Seared
perfectly with a beautiful hatch mark on top and settled into the
belly of a seared chile that was split open on the grill, the dish had
a slight spiciness that really worked brilliantly!

It was hard to choose my next choices and I leaned towards my server's
suggestions for the CHORIZO wrapped SCALLOPS with Ruby Red Grapefruit,
Pickled Fennel and Haricots Verts. The dish had some melted parmesan
on top that was almost a bit too much, but the scallops were superb
and overall the flavors worked. I switched to a glass of sparkling
AIMERY CREMANT de LIMOUX Sieur d'Arques from Champagne, a dry tasty
brut rose.

My last dish was the least exciting, even though it sounded divine:
LOBSTER RAVOILI in Foie Gras Butter with Napa Cabbage also came with
raisins, chives and slivered almonds. The pasta was nice, but after
all the superb flavors and spices, the dish was a bit unexciting.

I did enjoy a cappuccino and it came with a mini-Vahlrona chocolate
brownie for a nice touch.
Off to the opera...

I have fallen into GRACE and am lovin' it in Ft Worth, TX (5-9-13)

I returned to Ft. Worth for a long weekend of opera, and one can't
come to Texas without thinking of food.
Last night, the director of the opera company suggested GRACE
(www.gracefortworth.com) which I have walked by many times over the
last four years since it opened, but have never stepped inside. Well,
I'll head back to GRACE again for sure as the food is truly
spectacular, and the quiet elegant dining room truly a place to relazx
and enjoy.
I was thinking of the Grace Margarita, but then spotted the EL DIABLO
on the drink menu. I was expecting a spicier cocktail made from Sombra
Mezcal, Saint Germain Deviation, Lemon Fresca, Agave and topped with a
Habanero Pepper, which I quickly removed. It had a slight sweetness,
but not too much and the drinks here that are on the rocks, are
actually on the rock, as they come with one huge 2 inch square ice
cube. It apparently does not melt as fast.

I have been dieting for over a month and tried to be good last night
and started with the CRUDO of ALBACORE TUNA with spring vegetable
piperade, garlic aioli and Meyer lemon that was a large portion of
tasty tuna in a terrific tasty "sauce of veggies" that did not
overpower the excellent sushi-grade fish. Many of us at the table had
this superb dish.
A glass of Lange Twins Viognier from Clarksburg, California was an
interesting tasting Viognier that had a slight Sauvignon Blanc flavor.
I thought it was much better with the tuna than alone.

For my main course I tried the Meyer Ranch All Natural 8 ounce BEEF
FILET and it was superb with a slightly salted crust and came just as
I liked, a bit rare in the center. There are many toppings and sauce
options here that could destroy a fab piece of beef like this, so I
asked our server what he thought of the COGNAC PEPPERCORN MARROW, and
this superb, if rich sauce, married the steak perfectly, much better
than any rich Béarnaise or other sauce would. A gorgeous head of
roasted Garlic was on the dish as well and I used this to spice up my
side of BABY SPINACH with Cured Meat, which was also excellent and a
nice change from that rich Creamed Spinach so many steakhouses offer.
An AL PASSO 2008 Sangiovese from TOLAINI was superb with the meats as
well as with the Berkshire Baby Back Ribs with Cilantro, Sesame &
Garlic.
A superb start to a wonderful weekend of opera, food and friends....

Alexandria's LAPORTA's is lacking, yet has potential (5-5-13)

Sunday night we had an early concert in Alexandria, Virginia, so we headed to Laporta's (http://www.laportas.net/) just west of Old Town on Duke Street and discovered a little area we had never really noticed before. The free parking lot is a nice touch and when we entered we were told that a special Cinco de Mayo combo was scheduled to entertain in about an hour, which was another plus.
The first banquette table we sat at was freezing, due to the a/c vents overhead. I guess even though it was 60 degrees outside, they were worried that it would get warm once the place filled up, and it did just as we left, but we were the lone diners at 5pm!
We moved tables and ordered a nice bottle of LODALI Barbaresco 2009 (no vintages were indicated on the menu) which did warm us up a bit. Samuel had his requisite Coke and ordered the Chicken Fingers and fries as he did not seem interested in most of the pasta or meat dishes.
Superb warm onion rolls and other bread arrived, but our pleasant server Robin never told us what they were. Samuel downed a gulp of the onion roll and promptly grabbed a plain one!
Will and I decided to split the appetizer of GRILLED PORTABELLE MUSHROOM with Asparagus, Goat Cheese, Roasted Poblano Puree and Greens. It was very tasted but masked with melted Parmesan that was unnecessary with the goat cheese. At $14.50 it seemed a bit pricey, but maybe I am not aware of the higher prices in this area.
The main course that both Will & I chose was a superb Seared PORK SCHNITZEL with Parmesan, Garlic, Lemon, Butter and a delicious White Wine Sauce with a puddle of Pesto that I didn't even notice until much later on as the portion was so large and covered it. Samuel tasted this and regretted that he had not chosen this excellent dish as well. Again at $26.50, I felt I could have been at a much higher quality restaurant. To boot, the plain tables, chairs and decor are indeed not real exciting (although the maître d' said a renovation was coming soon),
A superb pianist began to play Chopin, so we hung around until the Latin combo started and then left after two numbers which were okay. The place was filling up, so maybe the regulars know something we don't, or just like the entertainment, as while the food is not bad, it is a bit on the high priced end, as are the wines!

MATCHBOX Capitol Hill makes it and also misses the mark (4-24-13)

Matchbox Capitol Hill is one of several incarnations of this wonderful
dining spot where I have not been in ages since the opening of the
first location in Chinatown DC (www.matchboxchinatown.com). Last night
a group from our office was treated to a mostly superb dinner at their
Capitol Hill location at 521 8th Street SE. I was given the privilege
of ordering the wines and went for the blends to start: A very
aromatic Rousanne/Viognier ATREA "The Choice" 2010 from Mendocino
which was not the biggest hit at the table, so we switched to an
excellent Matanzas Creek 2011 Sauvignon Blanc from Sonoma (another
wine I love, but have not tried in a long time) which was a big hit.
Sadly, it was their last bottle. The red blend was Zin, Cab, Petite
Syrah and Verdot from Rutherford/Napa and called Tres Sabores "Porque
No" 2009, a name that intrigued me, but a wine that was delish!
A number of us were ready to share dishes so I enjoyed the MANGO-LIME
CEVICHE with scallops, shrimp, salmon and sriracha served with tasty
blue corn chips. It only needed a dash more sriracha. The TUNA TARTARE
with  honey-garlic sauce & wasabi oil came with crispy yucca chips
which was a nice and healthier change, but still did not compare to my
now most-popular home made version! Crab and Avocado Salad was quite
rich with a bit too much mayo in the Tarragon Aioli.
The main course had hits and misses but I adored the BLACKENED
FLOUNDER served with excellent fresh baby veggies in the form of
zucchini, sunburst squash, green beans, fava beans and crispy fried
leeks. A pineapple salsa was a nice tart and light accompaniment. The
salmons, Creole pork and pizzas all got raves but the Korean Style
SHORT TRIBS had a lot to be desired as they were a bit too greasy. The
accompanying house made KIMCHI was spectacular and the Jasmine rice
unexciting.
We were all so stuffed there was no room for dessert, but a great time
was had by all!

spring is sprung, the blossoms in bloom when in NY, THE SMITH is for you (4-8-13)

I was in NY for a quickie opera last week and headed to THE SMITH
which opened several months ago across from Lincoln Center where
several other incarnations used to be including my beloved Sushi A-Go-
Go.
Well, it may be pricey, but it's fabulous food and highly recommended,
if a bit noisy and clamorous.
The tables are marble surfaced, the tile  floors are uncarpeted with a
painted copper (copy?) ceiling and the space is huge and open. In nice
weather, and it was, the walls lower to open to the sidewalks seating
outside. The chairs are okay, not too comfy, but the benches along the
wall are better. The rest rooms are downstairs, which could be a
problem for people who can't climb stairs (maybe there is an elevator
somewhere; I assume the law requires it).Once downstairs, it's hard to
detect which is men and women and since the wash area is joint, you
might wonder into the wrong side!

My server Kurt was a gem helping me with ideas and suggestions from
the varied menu.
I had started my diet, so I kept to oysters for first and they were
all divine:
Beau Soleil from New Brunswick
Cotuit Bay from Cape Cod that were the saltiest
Fisher Island from NY
and Montauk Pearls, also from Long Island
It was fun to have top notch NY oysters for a change and these came
with a mignonette as well as another habanero sauce which worked
perfectly to cut the saltiness of the Cotuit Bays!

I enjoyed a glass of Weissburgunder 2011 from Schrouk in Austria which
was light yet creamy and enjoyable with both the oysters and my main
course of TROUT MILANESE which came with two huge filets with a panko
mustard crust, baby kale, artichoke, fingerlings, dill aioli and
pickled onions. It was a superb fish with great flavor as well. I did
switch to a glass of Domaine Faiveley Mercurey Blanc 2009 a bit later
in the meal.

I forgot to mention that on arrival Kurt brought over both fizzy and
flat house bottled water--all at NO CHARGE!

I could not resist dessert and ate about 3 or 4 bites of a divine
SMORES IN A JAR which was homemade Graham crackers, toasted
marshmallows, mighty fine chocolate pudding and a dash of sea salt.
We have to return so Samuel can try the Liquid Center Chocolate Cake!

Chef Davide MARTINS gets praise for PORTUGAL and the Embassy here in DC(4-6-13)

Last night we attended the Washington National Opera Ball and one of
the best parts of the ball is being invited to an ambassador's
residence for dinner. While this is not something everyone can do as
the cost is high, should you have the opportunity to dine here in DC
at the Portuguese Ambassador's home then GO!
Chef Davide Martins is truly a wonder in his mid-twenties and already
headed for sure fame when he returns to his country. Prior to working
here he was on the team at the two-Michelin starred SEA GRILL in
Brussels!
Last night he prepared a simple ASPARAGUS Salad with Poached Quail
Egg, Grapefruit Reduction and a divine Grapefruit Hollandaise Sauce
(yes, I know I am not supposed to eat grapefruit, but who could
resist). Will even asked for extra sauce as they served it. the white
wine was a delicious FOLLIES 2011from Minho made from Alvarino and
Loureiro grapes. It was special to enjoy these new wines and varietals
(well, we have had the former grape in its Spanish name Albarino) as
we will be in Portugal on a cruise this summer and are sure to
encounter them.
PORT WINE SORBET was creamy and tasty and easily one of the best
sorbets I have ever had!
The main course was BEEF WELLINGTON with Honey, Fried Sweet Potatoes
and Baby Carrots. While this is easily an English dish, Ambassador
Brito advised us that the Portuguese fought alongside the English
against Napoleon and hence can claim some part of the Wellington name.
The meat was superb and the cehf showed that he can use foie gras and
make a superb pastry crust to boot.
The DUAS QUINTAS 2008 from Douro was a superb pairing and it at its
drinking peak as well.
The trio of cheeses was uneventful, but the two accompanying homemade
preserves were fabulous.
The OFFLEY TAWNY PORT arrived and I could not get enough refills in
the tiny glass :-)).
Dessert was a wonderful "Pasteis de Nata" which is a traditional
Portuguese pastry with custard that was gobbled up by everyone within
seconds.
It was indeed a fun night and the huge ball at Villa Firenze, the
Italian Ambassador's residence afterwards was just as fun with Vice
President Joe Biden in attendance--but all we did was gobble up the
Prosciutto, Salami, Bresaola, cheeses (Parmeggiano and blue) as he
spoke.