ZULA not a zero, maye a three (out of ten) Houston, TX

Here in Houston there are numerous downtown dining options, thought the haute cuisine tends to not be in the immediate area. Yesterday I chose ZULA (www.zulahouston.com) which bills itself as "new American cuisine" but is sadly looking more to the club/bar/disco crowd these days I fear.

The place is quite wild with a beautiful bar area in the front opening into a tall almost three story dining area in the rear bordered by giant two storey modern scones than undulate in colored lights from within. The tables are all huge, well-spaced and have comfy high back leather chairs. The staff was friendly and helpful, and if you are looking for a "Playboy Club" feel the female bartenders are dressed in skimpy tight bustier lingerie type outfits with garters and fishnets--enough said..Oh, the wine "room" area at the ed of the dining area is glassed in and is where these girls apparently dance "a la birdcage" on weekends!!

I enjoyed the DELLE VENEZIE Pinot Grigio 206 that was offered by the glass, but I had no wine list by the glass and did not know the prices or my options, which I hated. The server said there was house wine, but never got specific; however, he did let me taste before filling the glass.

Warm yummy onion bread (akin to focaccia) came with my appetizer of BOULEVARD SASHIMI which was four thinly wrapped in rice paper pieces of ever so slightly seared tuna filled with greens as well over RED CHILI SAUCE and Flying Fish Roe. One small piece of the tuna was tough, but otherwise it was a nice large serving and spicy and tasty. I wanted light fish so I chose the RIVER TROUT with LUMP CARB and Garden Veggies (Zucchini/Carrot/red peppers) in Brown Sauce which was a huge tasty piece of trout, but a fairly boring dish.

Dessert sounded good, so I opted for a cappuccino and that was a small cup with almost no froth.

Despite everyone's attempts to make me happy, the meal was unmemorable, and I think the club will survive, not the food.

INSIEME (in NYC) is not quite ALL together, despite good food

Last Friday I arrived in Manhattan early for an opera curtain and as I wandered around, I decided to try INSIEME (located in the Michelangelo Hotel) on the corner of West 51st Street at 7th Avenue (right in the heart of Times Square). I have tried to dine here in the past post-theater, but it is only 70 seats and always jammed!

INSIEME (www.restaurantinsieme.com) means "together" and while the overall experience was pretty good, I was grossly disappointed with the TINY portions.

The menu offers TRADITIONAL ITALIAN nad MODERN CONTEMPORARY sides, so I started with the traditional VITELLONE CRUDO which was a Pasture-Fed BEEF TARTARE made with Porcini Mushrooms and Lemon. It was about as tasty as could be in the mid-teens could have been more than five-six small bites. It does come with about eight small slices of bruschetta like salted toast, but it was Passover and they did not offer a Mazta alternative!

The meal actually began with some very nice and TINY amuses. The first tray of three one bite items included an OLIVE stuffed with GORGONZOLA, a BRUSCHETTA slice (just like that with my tartare--about 1/2 inch round) with RICOTTA (I skipped the bread) and a RADISH with a hollow in the top filled with OLIVE OIL and ANCHOVY, although I could taste no anchovy, salt or fish at all.

A wonderful three sip espresso cup came with STRACIATELLA that wonderful Italian version of EGG DROP soup that was made with the best of broths.

My wine was a 3 ounce tasting of PIGREGO Cipresso 2005 from SICILY which was an UNtypical blend for that island of Cabernet Sauvignon, Cabernet Franc, Petit Verdot nad Merlot. It was a yummy wine, but since I had a long opera, I kept my sips small and far between. Incidentally the wines come in 6 or 3 ounce tastes ranging from $4.25 to $18, a very good idea.

My entree was from the Contemporary side of the menu-MAGRET DUCK with FOIE GRAS, HAZELNUTS, RHUBARD and TURNIPS consisted of 6 small thin and tasty slices of duck (each a maximum of two bites) over a bed of spinach. The foie gras was similarly two bites and not very exciting with about one total crumbled hazelnut and two small slices or rhubard underneath.

I couldnt' find anything for dessert that did not have cake (it was Passover) so I skipped and they brought me thee super-mini biscotti which I quickly turned back as well. I guess it never cliecked in when i said I did not want any bread at the start!

I left hungry and felt I should stop somewhere for a salad. Perhaps I chose the wrong items, but at $30-something for duck I expected to be reasonably full....maybe next time, if there ever is one. Chef MARCO CANORA has created a beautiful setting and some wonderful food options, he just must be very chintzy!

partaking of Passover at DINO's is delicious

We have been on the DINO's e-mail list for some time now and were very excited to receive a notice that they would be offering a Passover-"STYLE" meal (that means NOT kosher, but using Passover ingredients and eliminating flour that has leavened) for the entire holiday this week. Sadly, so few restaurants in DC offer anything of this kind, so it is a nice break to get out during the holiday for some of us, and for Samuel who was getting tired of chicken, kugel and matzo-ball soup! Even worse, is the fact that fewer DC dining spots even offer the option of MATZA instead of bread. The cost (at Safeway, not wholesale) for a 5 pound 5pack of Matza was about $2.99 which yields about 75 pieces...more than enough to feed those requesting matza in a restaurant on a given day. So chefs, why not give in and splurge for those of us who might come in! It's just a week and a good PR move at virtually no cost, and surely CHEAPER than bread!

In addition, last night when we returned home, I received the monthly email from BEBO in Crystal City, which announced a similar 4course Passover "STYLE" meal; it just arrived a bit too late!

Upon arrival at DINO's last night (www.dino-dc.com) Samuel insisted we sit outside on the patio on the side street just off Connecticut Avenue. It was a gorgeous evening, and at that point nobody was outside, so we easily agreed. Sitting outside in DC can be anotyher fun thing at this time of the year, just be sure you have a way to get your server's attention if they are working both inside and outside, as it sometimes can be a bit frustrating (like wehn we needed to get the check and get Samuel home to bed).

Sam wanted pasta so badly (that's we he always gets at Dino) and we reminded him that there was not a "matza pasta" but that I promised to make "matza pizza" tonight at home. Instead he gobbled down (and he is normally a slow eater) three huge meatballs with sauce on the SALTIMBOCCA appetizer; he claimed it was the "yummiest stuff I ever had in my whole life!"

We opted for the 6 course $55 Passover meal with accompanying wines for an additional $38 available through the end of Passover this Sunday (I assume). It was a huge filling meal and for the most part fun, novel and enjoyable.

A small plate arranged as a Seder plate comes out with roasted shank bone, roasted egg, bitter greens (the Italian "puntarelle"), horseradish(bitter herbs or MAROR) and salt water. This was not necessary as the Seder meal is only the first two nights (last Sat & Sun), but it was interesting to have the puntarelle.

The first coarse is entitled TRIS di HAROSET and offers three types of Haroset, the nut,wine and apple mixture served at the seder (resembling the mortar the Jews used to build Egyptian structures) in which we dip the bitter herbs. VENETIAN style had pine nuts and was the lightest (most central European style), EGYPTIAN was with dates and was a dark thick mixture traditional for the Sephardim ("oriental" Jews hailing from the Mediterranean and Middle East) and our favorite seemed to be the 7 FRUIT SURINAM with coconut (a real novelty). Of course there was plenty of matza and ground white horseradish with vinegar. This was served with a red sparkling ANTICHI GIOCHI "VOULET" (Malvasia Rosa) 2007 from Casorzo which was a brilliant idea for pairing; slightly sweet alone, but changing to complement the harosets.

Next came homemade CARIBBEAN GEFILTE FISH with mahi mahi, whitefish, carpo and pike with Caribbean spices that was mild and tasty, served with a yummy ELENA WLACH GEWURTZTRAMINER 2006 from Alto Adige in the north.

The VENETIAN MATZO BALL SOUP offered fluffly light matza balls made with almond flour, chunks of chicken, walnut oil, hard spices, parsley and vegetables in a peppry broth that was superb (and alas soooo filling as soup can be). The ROVEGLIA "Catullus" (Trebbiano di Lugana) 2005 from Lugana Lombardia was a fruity wine but dry and another wonderful pairing with the spices in the soup.

For the entree there was a choice of three items one being Rockfish, but I opted for the PULCINO all GIRARROSTO which was a small YOUNG CHICKEN half roasted with POMEGRANATE & GARLIC Glaze and served with Spinach. The glaze was thick, but only brushed on so as not to overdose the meat with sweetness. The wine wasa medium bodied slightly acidic RADDA CHIANTI 2005 which married so perfectly with the glaze. Will chose the CIMA di VITELLO which was a white wine braised all natural VEAL BREAST with Garlicky Greens, Roasted Turnips and Parsnips which was like a pot roast of veal, soft, tender and tasty. The
HILBERG BARBERA d'ALBA 2006 was a lighter red wine working well with the lighter meat and light sauce as well.

All entrees come with TWO sides: a gorgeous TUNISIAN Spiced TZIMMES (which is actually a traditional Eastern European mixture of sweet potato and carrots) but here doctored with the wonderful spices (I doubt a Sephardi Jew from Tunisia would even think of making tzimmes, so kudos to Dino's on this one) and an EGGPLANT, ZUCCHINI, POTATO, ONION and Golden Raisin Kugel that was okay, but not as good as my veggie kugel I make at home (I like it with a crunchy crispy top browned in the oven!).

You chould choose off the regular dessert menu and while Sam wowed over a scoop of Chocolate Ice Cream and Will enjoyed three sorbets (coconut, blood orange and I forget?) which Sam also helped him with graciously, I opted for the Dolce di Pesach (the Hebrew word for Passover) which was a "BAKLAVA" made from layered matza, honey and nuts. The filling was tasty, but sadly matza gets soggy when mixed with these items and the "baklava" idea is lost going from crisp phyllo to soggy matza, but it was a valiant effort nonetheless. Will sipped a glass of TRAMONTIS LIMONSARDO, a limoncello from Sardinia while I quaffed the POPPIANO Vin SANTO, actually a good choice with the honey-rich dessert.

We all had a good time getting out since we are back to our gefilte fish, two chickens, kugel, sweet potatoes and matza ball soup leftovers from the Seder tonight, of course with a small appetizer of MATZA PIZZA!

Happy Passover to all!

new heavenly menu at NEW HEIGHTS

NEW HEIGHTS (www.newheightsrestaurant.com) has been at the corner of Calvert & Connecticut across from the Omni Shoreham for almost 25 years now, and this time of the year it's thje prettiest with all the flowering tress in Rock Creek Park in bloom across the street.

It's been almost on year since Chef JOHN WABECK returned to the helm and things are better than ever. I mentioned earlier this week I was going to compare the Zagat "food" rating of the Oval Room at "21" to that of New Heights at "22." somebody must have been asleep as there is much more than a ONE POINT difference merely in flavor, let alone everything else, such as quality and care of food. The lower ratings that New Heights gets for decor and service are INSANE, as the location (both inside and out) are both so much more pleasant and accommodating than the Oval Room's boring bland decor and the service at New Heights has always been TOP NOTCH, while the other night at the Oval Room, I found myself often begging for bread, water, wine, or whatever, which often took a long time to come.

The elegant decor is beautifully supplied by owner Umbi SIngh's sister, who owns a gorgeous furniture/art gallery in Bethesda called Sansar, and indeed Mr. SIngh and his gorgeous wife always ensure that everyone has a perfect time.

Our server Kristin was new to us, but she knew her menu and wine list and was a great asset.

We started with a bottle of BLANC de COUPE ROSES 2006 Champ du Roy which is a Rhone blend of Marsanne/Rousanne & Viognier (don't let the "rose" fool you into thinking it's a rose wine!) that had a perfumey aroma and great flavors with lots of minerals. It comes from the Vins de Pays des Cotes de Brian, which is a region I have never heard of in Provence (I assume it is pronounced BREE-ahn, rather than named after our English name BRY-an!).

Will started with the ROASTED VERMONT BEETS with Walnut-Roasted PESTO and St. Pete's Blue Cheese which was a revelation (perhaps due to St. Pete) in beet salads and the mild blue was superb as well. Just as we tasted a huge motorcade drove by below (10 cycles, 5 police cars, 2 huge limos and 3 or so CIA-type SUV's) so maybe the Pope was passing by (or perhaps the British PM).

My SEARED ORGANIC CHICKEN LIVERS with Bacon Cornbread and Truffle Cream were cooked to perfection and I could not leave a dribble of the fabulous rich sauce on the plate. FIVE ONION CARNAROLI RISOTTI with Graysen Cheese was a delicious turn on the traditional dish using the firmer grain and having it loaded with so many different onion flavors, all mild and caramelized to perfection.

Our red wine was an excellent full-bodied coffee and blackberry filled 2005 STEPHEN ROSS PINOT NOIR from Edna Valley, Calif that we all savored and adored. It went great with all the dishes as it was neither too light nor too big.

SEARED MAINE DIVER SCALLOPS were two huge bivalves surrounded by QUINOA with Dried Chili-Brown-Butter for a bite and OYSTER MUSHROOMS with Pumpkin Seeds. This is an inventive, tasty and exciting dish that I will have to try as it was my mother's choice last night. Will opted for the SUMAC DUSTED SWORDFISH which were thin filets surrounding an EGGPLANT NAPOLEON with ENGLISH PEA COULIS. The napoleon was a true style with delicate flaky phyllo layers surrounding the tasty eggplant puree (which I am usually not fond of!).

My FLINTSHIRE FARMS PHEASANT BREAST was a wonderful tasty and not too gamey bird served with STEEL CUT OATS and the most amazing ENDIVE MARMALADE that had the greatest flavor. The dish was finished off with PORT-soaked CHERRIES and was again a coup de cuisine for Chef Wabeck. Desserts are always a treat at New Heights ever since day one when their first chef (Alison Swope) introduced her famous cheesecake. Today there are are still great options and the CHOCOLATE BREAD PUDDING with Warm Butterscotch Sauce, Chocolate Ice Cream and Dried Cherries is a chocolate lover's dream (if they don't mind the carbs), while savored the lighter and berry infused STRAWBERRY PANNA COTTA topped with a tasty Strawberry "Salad."

As Passover is arriving tomorrow, we giggled when a plate of homemade Coconut Macaroons hit the table for us to nosh on before departing. I had just finished a huge batch of my own that afternoon (but mine are loaded with chocolate chips!).

So for now, head to NEW HEIGHTS which towers over the Oval Room in SO MANY ways (food, service, decor, views and even in feet above sea level!).

AND be sure to have a wonderful PASSOVER!

an outing to the overrated(?) OVAL ROOM

Having lived in Washington over 29 years, I can;t believe I have never been to the OVAL ROOM (800 Connecticut Ave, NW www.ovalroom.com) which always seems to get (especially with th tourists) high ratings and is always on the "in" list for spots to be seen.

As you know, I don't care much for seeing or being seen, I just want good food. This week's outing was another private business party, so there was only a choice of two items on each course, but the food came NOWHERE close to that at Marcel's the previous week. It was decent, but unexciting and uninventive as well.

I do have to give credit for the wonderful foie gras mousse hor's d'oevres with kumquat, and the wines were quite good as well: a LAGARAI PINOT GRIGIO and a CANELLI 2006 Sangiovese blend that comes from the wonderful winemakers at Coltibuono.

I started with the SEARED DIVER SCALLOP with Cranberry-Olive and Toast. The scallops were plump, yummy and cooked just right. There was a light and not too flavorful cranberry-olive sauce (I would have loved some more) and the toast oddly consisted of several tiny dry unflavored croutons that I left.

I was in a fish mood and went for the SLOW BAKED COD, CHORIZO OIL, Raw & Cooked Fennel and asked for the Grapefruit to be left off (they said it was just a garnish anyway) due to that cholesterol drug problem. The fish was superb, again perfectly cooked and the oil was nice as well, but again needed something more flavorful. A bland swath of potato puree arced around the fish and the Fennel was the flavor highlight of the meal!

Mixed Seasonal Berries was a sad flat plate with some sliced strawberries, several raspberries and a blackberry.

With a Zagat rating of "21" for food, I am sorry to say that I think there are MANY more higher rated options in DC (and probably lower rated ones that are better as well) for example NEW HIEGHTS is rated "22" and has the same price range. Since we head there tonight, it should be a good comparison!

munching luncheon at MARCEL's

Well those of your true foodies know that MARCEL's (www.marcelsdc.com) is not open for lunch, and furthermore that I rarely take luncheon when at home. HOWEVER, I was invited to a wonderful private business luncheon yesterday that must be recanted and reveled in.

We started sipping MUMM CUVEE NAPA N/V bubbly getting us all in the best of spirits and then sat down to three courses.

First came a rich delicious CREAM of LEEK and POTATO SOUP with Lardons of Applewood Smoked BACON and Crispy Leeks. Even though the chef was not in the kitchen, his staff knows soups, and this one did not disappoint one little iota. The wine was a crispy tasty LES HEURES BLANCHES 2004 from Domaine Mas Des Armes (Costiere de Nimes) from Provence. Speaking of Provence I had the pleasure of sitting next to the sales manager for the brilliant Bastide de Marie in that region amongst many other wonderful luxury hoteliers.

ANYWAY- next came ROASTED FARMHOUSE CHICKEN with Caramelized Shallots, Gruyere POTATO Cake, Melange of Vegetables and Tarragon Sauce that just melted in my mouth and was washed down by a slightly tannic CHATEAU VALCOMBE 2004 from Dominique Ricome made of 70% Syrah and 30% Grenache, but improved as it opened up (from the same region).

Dessert was an APPLE CARAMEL CAKE with a yummy Muscat Sabayon, and I took my large doggie bag home, as there is no way on earth I can eat this much on a work day at lunch!

Ted's MONTANA GRILL -take it more than leave it

Yesterday we joined two of Samuels' friends and their parents for dinner with the kids at TED's MONTANA GRILL (www.tedsmontanagrill.com) at the Ballston location on Wilson Blvd. in Arlington, although this is a huge national chain started by the ubiquitous Ted Turner.

Zagat gives this "burger" spot decent ratings and even higher ones for families and groups, and in that vein, they did succeed. Upon arrival they boys all got these waxy stringy "stix" that they could mold to the bison sketch included or play with and make things of their own; this was a huge hit. The garlicky pickles which also came right away were superb, and even Samuel discovered a new food (he has been very good at this at home lately too--he now adores mushrooms!).

The kid's menu is not much more varied than usual, our boys chose the MAC N CHEEZ (is spelling so hard these dayz?) with fries or the BAR NONE SLIDERS (3 mini cheeseburgers) with fries which Samuel enjoyed tremendously once he doused them all with ketchup. They were out of our first choice of wine (from a fairly small wine list to begin with) so we settled for a decent HAYMAN & HILL 2005 CABERNET RESERVE from Napa. The ONION RINGS come huge and crispy piled high flavored with salt & pepper and a very mild creamy horseradish dipping sauce that even Will (who must the the only Englishman on earth who does not like horseradish) and Sam both liked. These well priced tasty morsels were a hit around the table!

Our server, Yoni, seemed to try very hard but the place got very crowded fast and things seemed to slide off service wise as the evening progressed. We had to ask about our entrees as we sipped the second bottle of wine, a CLINE ANCIENT VINES 2006 Zinfandel which paired very well with the spicy burgers.

A refill on one beer though took over 20 minutes to arrive at the table (but we were never charged for it!).

The burgers arrived and while the menu has many options, you go here for burgers or the chicken grills. Indeed, the two beef burgers chosen and the chicken grill (S.O.B. with Swiss/Onions/Bacon) all came warm and tasty, but the two BISON burgers (you can choose beef or bison, the latter being priced a bit higher) called CHILI CHEESE KAREN's "Flying D" with Bison Chili, Cheddar Cheese, Jalapenos and Grilled Onions (I switched my onions for guacamole) came lukewarm, but were still very tasty. The fries on the side were not ones I would write home about, although they were not bad. I opted for the Parmesan CREAMED SPINACH, but my burger came with fries by mistake. Yoni brought a bowl of Spinach (only after I reminded him twice) which we all passed around and enjoyed heartily, but after we had finished our burgers.

The kids had a mediocre 3 scoop bowl of chocolate ice cream split 3 ways, which Sam did not care for at all, and we all headed home quite full, only wishing for warmer burgers and a bit more timely service.

find FAMOSO and you're in for a find

I had wanted to try FAMOSO (www.famosorestaurant.com) since it opened over a year ago, but could not get myself there. I finally purchased a dinner as an auction item for a charity, so I HAD to go. Last night we dined there and it was, for the most part, an impressive evening, if you can find the restaurant.

Famoso is at 5471 Wisconsin Ave in Chevy Chase, just outside the DC line, but the entrance and signage is on the rear of the building where there is complimentary parking in the lot at the :Collection at Chevy Chase" shops.

We settled in and had some yummy flatbread and bread with olive oil and sundried tomato as we sipped Kim Crawford Sauvignon Blanc 2007 and celebrated a couple of birthdays as well. We ordered off the four course tasting menu and the regular menu and it was quite varied with many options.

I started with VITELLO TONNATO that magnificent dish of cold veal with creamy tuna sauce, here served with a nice Radicchio, Endive & Arugula Salad. The BURRATA here is served in a Tomato with Green Beans, but is not at the high quality level of Dino's in Washington. The pastas were varied and all got rave reviews from LINGINI con VONGOLE & Garlic to the superb STROZZAPRETI alla ROMAGNOLA con Foglione di Spinaci with the "strangled" pasta having an excellent sausage ragout with spinach and prosicutto. My RAVIOLI di CINGHIALE were filled with tasty Wild Boar and served in a rich and tasty Butter Sage Sauce with a hint of Goat Cheese.

By this time we had moved on to GRECO di TUFO Loggia delle Serre 2006 from Terredora di Paolo and a SOAVE CLASSICO 2005 from Pieropan, not to mention a San Lorenzo 2005 MONTEPULCIANO d'ABRUZZO which was great with my boar. One should note that on Monday's at Famoso the ENTIRE wine list is HALF PRICE.

Entrees were a bit less stellar, but still quite tasty with ranging from a huge seafood platter to BRANZINO (sea bass) con CARCIOFI, OLIVE, Patate e Pomodorini baked and served with artichokes, olives, potato and cherry tomatoes. My COSTATA de MANZO was a 10 ounce ROAST CAB (I did not really know the meaning of this term) PRIME RIB with Grilled Veggie Potato Cake (called "lay" on the menu) in a Veal Demi-Glace. The dish somehow did not seem very Italian, but was one of the better entrees indeed.

The menus had some odd English usage which we giggled at, especially at the bottom where it noted "Menu presented by Ex Chef Romina Lugaresi," which we laughingly took to mean the chef had departed, as opposed to being EXecutive Chef!

Our final two wines were big wonderful red, first a ROSSI di MONTALCINO La GERLA 2003 followed by a huge 2005 Le VOLTE from Ornellaia which had an even bigger nose.

Our dessert wine was a superb CHATEAU LIOT 2003 Sauternes which went well with all the desserts, mine being a PUFF PASTRY with MASCARPONE, STRAWBERRY and WILD BERRY, a glorified rich berry Napoleon so to say.

Big hits were the Hot Molten CHOCOLATE CAKE and the WARM APPLE STRUDEL with Vanilla Gelato. Needless to say, nobody went home hungry. Kudos to the excellent staff under manager Giorgio who seemed to have everything served at just the right time!

The WILLARD ROOM wins big in my book

While the Willard Room at the Willard Intercontinental (1401 Pennsylvania Ave, NW), one of Washington's most historic venues for dining, may not be winning awards or the top ratings, it sure gets the best scores in my book.

It's been over a year and a half since our last visit to this sophisticated and oh so vastly improved destination, that it might just become our favorite "special" place to go in town.

Only a week ago super 3 Michelin starred chef Antoine Westermann singed on with the Willard Room to oversee the menu and its superb executive chef Nicolas Legret; he is now overseeing both the grand dining room in the Willard Room as well as the newly opened Cafe du Parc facing the front (without outside tables on the park in season) which will have to be another visit we must make soon (the menu is pure French bistro at its best).

Chef Legret has been in DC for some time now and while starting in France and making his way through Le Crillon and Le Grand Vefour in Paris was most recently at Le Bec Fin in Philly. He is more than ably assisted by Maitre d' Xavier and sommelier Christina Abbruzzetti whose DC history goes way back. I don't need to go on about how beautiful the dining room is as it is one of the top four Zagat rated destinations in DC for "decor" and its food and service ratings are pretty high as well. It's a shame the hotel's PR can't get this magnificent and grand spot into the Rammy nominations and out there where it needs to be seen and EATEN!

If you go, indulge yourself, and ask to have Chef Legret cook for you; you will not be disappointed as here is what we had:

HENRIOT Champagne Rose Brut N/V started us off with a beautiful and oh so simple presentation of an amuse of PARMESAN TUILLE in a tall flute weighted by grains at the base. The tuille was as butter as ever and Samuel would have loved the little plate of pitted olives as that's his new favorite snack. The fresh breads were just as tasty and come from a bakery in Alexandria (I forgot the name) with the olive winning my top star.

It is always a treat to have rare and tasty wines and our first two were just that.

DOMAINE WIENBACH 2006 GEWURTZTRAMINER Cuvee Theo made by Catherine Faller, the doyenne of Alsatian quality wines (whom I have had the pleasure of meeting and drinking extensively with in her parlor in Alsace). This slightly peppery smooth and creamy wine had a sweet nose but was bone dry with huge mineral content (so important to these Alsatian wines) and was beyond amazing with the SEARED HUDSON VALLEY FOIE GRAS with Poppyseed Crust over Crisp Apple and Sherry Vinegar with a Julienne of Radish. This was a new take on a dish that sometimes can get overdone these days (alas, indeed many superstar chefs have decided to eliminate foie gras from their menus). This proves that Chef Legret can innovate the dish and make it new again with something like poppyseed and a touch of vinegar.

Our second blow your mind wine was CHATEAU PAPE CLEMENT 2004 Graves made from Semillon and Sauvignon Blanc, and while I am not a big semillon fan this wine with its perfumey nose had a "sour melon" taste according to will BUT was a beyond brilliant pairing by Ms. Abbruzzetti with the also blow your mind ROCKFISH TARTARE with Mousseline of Cod & Almond, Lemon Jus and micro greens. I have never had raw rockfish before to my knowledge, and it is a brilliant choice for fish, so American, yet coming from French chef--tasty, moist and even better with the wine and its creamy mousse on the side.

ROUSETTE de SAVOIE 2005 "Cepage Altesse" from Domaine Jean Vullien has a slight spiciness to it from the heretofore unknown by me Crepy and Seysselle varietals. Again a perfect pairing with FROGS LEGS in Lemon & Chervil Sauce and ONION RAVIOLI which was where the wine was so great.

Our wonderful server TERRANT never gave up explaining every detail and making sure we were happy; how could we not be? At one point we discussed the hotel's attempts at going green as the water they serve is "RESTORE" so that there is much recycling as possible (the toilets don't flush, but they clean) and efforts to make the hotel better for our environment are succeeding.

Back to the food---PAN SEARED SCALLOPS in WHITE Wine and LIME Sauce were next and we loved the lime accent (especially since this something not very French, yet Chef Legret has adopted so much in his new American home. The wine was a MISSION HILL 2002 CHARDONNAY from the OKANAGAN Valley in British Columbia. Aged in American oak this is another one of those rare wines that's always fun to find.

POACHED MAINE LOBSTER with Golden Raisins, Onion Marmelade, Cumin, Tumeric and Lobster Sauce was an intense preparation of the shellfish bringing out so much flavor and excitement. Served with an equally impressive 2004 MERSAULT from Francois Mikulski aged in old oak that helped the shellfish shine even more. The minerality of this wine was a perfect foil to the dish's ingredients. To quote Ms. Abbruzzetti, "it blows my panties off!"

An interlude of CALAMANZI LIME Sorbet with VODKA was the perfect refresher as we went on to two red wines: MUSAR Cuvee Rouge 2004 from Gaston Huchar in the Bekaa Valley of Lebanon was a bit spicy, but still a lighter wine made from Cabernet, Cinsault, Grenache, Obaideh and Merwah (2 more newbies for me), though
we both preferred the MENDEL MALBEC 2004 from Lujan de Cujo in Mendoza, Argentine for its fullness. This went much better with the MUSCOVY DUCK a l'ORANGE with Citrus Marmelade, Root Vegetables, English Peas, Broad Beans and a dash of amazing SEL a la TRUFFE de St. JEAN--a large grain salt infused with truffles that we could smell from across the room as it was opened!

As you know with us, cheese is a must, so we took a small plate of SELLES SUR CHER, ASSOIRATY, VALENCE Goat and PURPLE HAZE Goat as well all served with a MADEIRA from The Rare Wine Co., a 19% alcohol N.Y. Malmsey Special Reserve that was yumyum tasty.

We asked for a light dessert and got just that--a complex small square (about 1-1/2 in on each side) of South American SPICE CAKE with Milk Chocolate Layer and TONKA BEAN Ice Cream, Gold Leaf, Cassis Gelee and Raspberry Gelee. The several bites were just a perfect conclusion to a miraculous meal and served with an amber raisiny VIN SANTO FELSINA from Berardegna which is easily the best Vin Santo I have had in I can't remember how long!

Keep your eyes open for us at the Willard Room and sooner at Cafe du Parc!

musing on MORTON's mighty portions

Since Will and Samuel took off for several days in Massachusetts visiting cousins, I decided to have a night out with a dear friend. Most of you know I would NEVER choose Morton's (www.mortons.com), but I had a coupon for $99 for TWO PEOPLE which included salad/surf & turf/ and dessert which was pretty amazing. We actually had an amazing time, and could not come close to finishing everything. So if I have to make one complaint, it's that the portions ARE TOO BIG.

The Morton's in Downtown DC is at 1050 Connecticut Ave on the mezzanine level and has a nice view out the windows of the local shopping area at Farragut Metro; the decor is basic with comfy chairs, lots of photos, beautiful flowers and wine displays. Oddly there was a pile of potatoes on one counter which had clearly been there a bit too long; was this art? Our table faced the small open counter steak kitchen where three chefs busied themselves with all the meat.

Kudos to this Morton's staff for their friendliness and efforts. When I was searching for a medium bodied wine and asked some questions of the manager Dave, he suggested a MARTINELLI not on the menu. He returned with a 2005 "Bella Vigna" Russian River Pinor Noir that at 14.7% alcohol was a huge Pinot, full of body that could easily stand up to a filet.

The huge loaf of warm onion bread came and we dug in smothering it with the delicious butter; clearly not a low cholesterol meal here. Our meal began with a choice of the Morton or Caesar Salad and we both took the latter, a huge plate of Romaine beautifully dressed and tasty with hints of anchovy in the dressing (but no whole fish); only the croutons were a disappointment, small and chintzy, so we ate the bread instead!

Next came a PETITE FILET with Bearnaise Sauce and the option of three "turf" combos. I chose the BROILED SEA SCALLOPS wrapped in BACON with Apricot Chutney which were yummy and moist, although you need to keep the chutney to just a dollop or it's too sweet. Rick chose the SHRIMP ALEXANDER served in a Beurre Blanc Sauce which was rich and creamy and had three huge shrimp as well. These were all yummy and the filets were perfect (even if at over 8 ounces each!). I especially liked the way the steaks were cooked just right but with a crunchy crispy outside edge.

We were each given a choice of a side dish (which can feed three people anyway!) so I went for the LYONAISE Potatoes loaded with sauteed onions and bacon bits (tasty) and Rick went for the perfectly SAUTEED MUSHROOMS.

Believe it or not the $99 for two included dessert and we both chose the (yes it was huge) slice of KEY LIME PIE smothered with whipped cream. I took a small bite and brought the rest home for Will to enjoy as I know how much he loves Key Lime Pie. It was delish, but I was way too full.

So, find a deal like this, or share each plate and Morton's might work for you.

Supping with Samuel in Bethesa-Persimmon & Grapeseed

We have been trying to take Samuel to more innovative dining spots and he seems to be doing fairly well...although PASTA is still his favorite.

We tried two Bethesda finer dining sports this weekend starting with PERSIMMON (www.persimmonrestaurant.com) where we have not been in years and joined our friends who have four kids aged 1-1/2 to 7 (a challenge in itself, let alone dining out).

The folks at Persimmon had told us they had items for children, but one must remember the key word here is "children's menu" or be specific. Upon arrival the options were limited, a burger or plain pasta with butter. Luckily our kids liked the pasta, but is was nothing to even write about. The eldest went right for the FILET on the menu with Mashed Potatoes, Spinach (which she would not touch; a shame) and the most tasty thin onion rings piled high. It was an adult and huge portion, but quite good as well. The adults started with a HENDRY 2006 UNOAKED Chardonnay which was a treat of true fruit and great wine. Will enjoyed the DUCK CONFIT with Flageolet Beans, my SMOKED TROUT SPRING ROLLS with Hoisin BBQ Spicy Peanut Sauce were fabulous, but the special of ASIAN BEEF TARTARE with Wasabi Cream needed more spice in the cream and more seasoning in the beef itself as it was quite bland.

All the entrees were hits from the BLACK SESAME CRUSTED TUNA with Daikon, Carrots, Sugar Snap Peas, Wakane Seaweed and Tamarind Drizzle to the Pan Seared ROCKFISH with LEMON GNOCCHI (these were fab), Spinach, Exotic (I find this an odd choice of words) Mushrooms, Roasted Tomato & Eggplant Coulis (luckily all the additions to the fish did not overwhelm the star itself as the Rockfish was superb moist and flaky), PORK LOIN CHOP Stuffed with Prosciutto, Fontina & Sage with French Green Lentils and Caramelized Pearl Onions (a bit heavier, but still yummy) to my superb MAGRET of DUCK with Sweet Potatoes, Duck CONFIT HASH, Celery Root Galette and Foie Gras Reduction which was another heavy and rich dish, but one I can easily rave over.

Our red wine was the manager's recommendation of a 2004 PALACIOS REMONDO "LA MONESA," a Tempranillo-Garnacha blend from Rioja Baja in Spain which went great with everything as it was medium bodied and full of flavor, but with no tannins at all.

The kids enjoyed CHOCOLATE ICE CREAM and an unexciting BREAD PUDDING but what was the busboy thinking when he brought an extra WARM BOWL to split up the ice cream between the kids?

After this we were full, the kids were full and I think all nine of us went home exhausted!

Last night we returned to the newly refurbished GRAPESEED (www.grapeseedbistro.com) in Bethesda, where we have always had a great time, and it was no different, even with Chef Jeff Heineman in absentia. The new Grapeseed is twice the size with the same (but newer) bar on the left, open kitchen at the rear and lots of tables, but the right side has a pricate dining are in the wine room, and another behind it with glass enclosed walls separating off a series of cozy intimate booths running the length of the opposite wall. Raves go to our server Christy who handles Samuel's every request and need and was as cheery, friendly and helpful as could be. We started with a bottle of DOMAINE LES BRUYERES CROZES HERMITAGES BLANC 2004 which was a revelation, so rich and creamy like a fine aged Rhone white or top level California Chard! Samuel got his dish (they don't have a children's menu here either, but they will make a larger number of options and what we did was pick an appetizer of FONTINA STUFFED MEATBALLS of Beef, Pork & Veal with Rosemary, Tomato Sauce, Polenta and ask to have it served on Pasta (excellent Fettuccine) and Sam rolled his eyes in excitement and adored every bite. He was even happier when Christy brought over a bowl of fresh grated Parmesan!

We were treated to an amazing (and huge) amuse of CRAB STUFFED SHRIMP on CHORIZO disk over a WHOLEGRAIN MUSTARD CREME FRAICHE which was faaaabulous.

The only slight disappointment of the entire meal was Will's starter called, GREEN, EGG & HAM (which Samuel got a kick out of) which was a slow poached organic egg in a martini glass over Pea Sauce and sprinkled with Crispy Speck. It just needed a little salt or something.

My FRIED CHICKEN LIVERS were amazing, crispy on the outside and served on small crispy bread slices with POBLANO & BELL PEPPER JELLY giving them a dash of flavor and slight spice (they could have even stood up to more). It was a huge portion and only cost $6.00! We switched to a tasty 2006 McLAREN VALE, Australia SHIRAZ from YANGARRA that went perfectly with Will's BRAISED LAMB SHANK with Rice, Beans, Arugola Salad and Gremolata, while I was thrilled with my PAN ROASTED CHICKEN (who EVER orders chicken?) with CHESTNUT & SAGE STUFFING in Sherry Vinegar Sauce. There was 1/2 of a huge chicken and I could only get through the huge juicy moist breast (and took the rest home for later!) and the stuffing was to die for.

Sam polished off three scoops of creamy tasty MANGO SORBET, Will took in three scoops of BUTTERSCOTCH ICE CREAM and I headed for the cheeses: BUCHERON Goat which was okay, but tasted unexciting and a bit harder than I like goat cheese. LA LEYENDA, a firm Spanish Sheep that was superb, and even Samuel liked it, and a tasty ROGUE CREAMERY SMOKY BLEU (smoked over hazelnuts) that was not too powerful or invasive; just right for me.

We went home very full, very happy and very thrilled that Grapeseed can accommodate Samuel and its new "space" makes it so varied you have several dining options (well, as far as where to sit).

bravos for BAR BOULOUD at Lincoln Center (NYC)

Lincoln Center got a new dining addition a couple of months ago which comes in at the highest range for "casual" but is really worth the splurge. BA BOULUD (1900 Broadway 212-595-0303) is directly across the street from Lincoln Center and part of the Daniel Boulud expanding empire of bistros and cafes and dining destinations from NY to Florida (www.danielnyc.com).

The long narrow space has a curved ceiling that is white with not the greatest lighting, but decent ambience, although the tables in the rear are a bit too close (one waiter served a steak-frites at the next table and had his rear in my face at one point)., The bar is 1/2 the length on one side with booths on the other side. An adorable round tasting table is at the rear. The booths extend the entire length of the right side and have two wine coolers in the backs of each one between each pair (an ingenious idea and use of space). The wood is blond and the wall is adorned with photos of wine stains (all given a vintage and vineyard).

Speaking of wine, I started with a glass of DOMAINE MARDON, 2006 QUINCY V.V. from the Loire, a tart but tasty Sauvignon Blanc (but I have no clue what the V.V. stands for, and neither did my server). One of the big attractions here is the charcuterie prepared by ChefCharcutier Sylvain Gasdon; I was mightily impresed with my terrine choice: COMPOTE de VEAU "en blanquette" which was shredded slow- braised veal short rib with carrots and leeks. A Button Mushroom
Remoulade, tasty mustard, cornichons, pickled onions and small frisee salad accompanied this delectable creation.

I moved on to the SOUPE de MOULES which was a dreamy Butternut Squash and MUSSEL BISQUE with toasted shallots, Curry Chantilly, chock full of mussels and diced squash that's was rich and creamy and perfect on this cold and wet March evening.

Incidentally, I arrived at 5pm and the place was empty, by 630pm it was jammed and heaving.

My second wine was a DOMAINE PELAQUIE Cotes du Rhones Villages 2006 "Laudun" that was dark amber, full of body, and wonderfully wood aged like a great vintage French white; what a treat at $10/glass.

My entree was actually an appetizer portion of ST JACQUES au CHOU with two huge Grilled Maine Scallops, Orleans Mustard, Winter Slaw and a Red Cabbage Marmelade. It was just right after the other two dishes and I was glad I did not choose an entree, although there were many tempting ones!

With this I had a glass of Grands Vignes du Roy 2006 Chateauneuf dePape, that cost twice as much as the white Rhone, and while very tasty, did not have the same amount of character or intensity. It was a tough call between dessert and cheese, but I quickly went with the latter choosing three types which were simply described on the menu:
Earthy-Abbaye de Citeaux
Stinky-Epoisses
Old & Hard-22 month aged Mimolette

I also got an extra treat of Sheep Ossaue-Vielle which was very tasty, which I asked my server AnnaLisa for a little taste of and she managed to squeeze it out of the kitchen!

The breads were nice, but the cheese was star.

I forgot to mention the amazing (and large) warm cheese Gougeres (like popovers) that arrived just after I sat down and melted in my mouth to perfection. These all come from Chef Boulanger Mark Fiorento, and the Executive Chef here is Damian Samsonetti.

I look forward to returning to Bar Boulud as it is a wonderful spot before or after anything at Lincoln Center!

make your way to OUEST on New York's Upper West Side

Ever since it opened some 6+ years ago, I had heard raves about Ouest 2315 Broadway at West 84th Street), but it was always a bit too far north to head to before the theater. Yesterday, I had plenty of time before my 8pm curtain at the opera, so I booked a table for 5pm (an easy time to get in, since the place was more than jammed when I left at 720pm) and was glad I ventured three subway stops north of Lincoln Center (it actually took me less than 12 minutes to get down to the Met after dinner!).

The small narrow entryway is misleading with its cute neighborhood bar and small curved booths, but I was led past this, down several steps into a rear room which opens up beautifully with more curved booths, tables and even a mezzanine balcony on either side all overlooking a small open kitchen. My rear corner table was larger than most of the 2-tops and was a great place to see everything. As I waited for my guest (opera diva) I spoke with Richard, the knowledgeable sommelier about a ZWEIGELT on the wine list. He said there were no "wimpy" wines on the menu (which a Zweigelt can sometimes be), so I went for the HG Katharina & Heimut GANGL 2003 from Luss in Austria. IT was a revelation, full of body, lots of fruit, especially plum, all very reminiscent of a big Pinot Noir. Even moreso, it went superbly with everything we ordered for the both of us!

Skinny warm mini-baguettes arrived, making me feel like in France (they were so wonderfully crispy on the outside and fresh inside) with a small ramekin of yummy hummus; we dipped away.

It was hard to decide, but our wonderful server Deborah led us to great selections (she insisted there was nothing bad on the menu; I think she was right). My guest had the ENDIVE & ROQUEFORT Salad with Creamy Mustard Vinaigrette which was a hugely piled high plate (she took home half of it!) of tasty and not bitter at all endive. My HOUSE SMOKED STURGEON came wrapped around a huge POACHED EGG, LARDONS sprinkled around, and topped with FRISEE to form a small wide tower. The fish was some of the best I have ever had, and the entire dish was simply perfect.ion.

My PAN ROASTED SQUAB with DUCK LIVER RISOTTO, Crisp ARTICHOKES and Parmesan was no less impressive with a splash of huckle(?)berry sauce on the side for taste. The artichokes were flash fried and crunchy for texture and the squab cooked just to medium rare (closer to rare as I adore) so that it was not chewy but moist and tasty.

The BACON WRAPPED PORK TENDERLOIN and SPARE RIBS were gorgeous with a fabulous barbecue-like sauce that stuck to the ribs, served with Sauteed ESCAROLE and CORN CAKES, another great achievement for the busy team in the kitchen.

We were full and could not brave dessert, but knowing that 10-15 minutes away is Lincoln Center, made me braver to venture north to places like Ouest before the opera!

HUDSON has highs and chills

Last night we took Samuel out for dinner to HUDSON which recently took over the space at 21st & M Streets previously occupied by David Greggory (www.hudson-dc.com). The decor is not that different with redder walls and exposed ceilings, dark wood tables and tan brushed corduroy-like chairs. It is elegant, but sadly our table in the rear facing the window to the exposed kitchen was next to the long outside window. Despite the reasonably warm weather, we were very chilly, and Samuel had to move to the other side of the table and don a coat!

There were not alot of other table options as a huge group occupied the whole front section of the restaurant.

The Parker House rolls were decent, but nothing to rave over, and while Samuel rolled his eyes over his FRIED CHICKEN and FRENCH FRIES, I was not impressed due to the blandness of the seasonings. The crust was tasty (offered as an entree as Buttermilk Fried Chicken) and maybe it just needs that entree's gravy!

A bottle of LANE TANNER French Camp Vineyard Shiraz 2004 from San Luis Obispo in California was excellent with slight tannins and a smoky full finish that went great with most of our food. Will started with the MATZOH BALL SOUP with Pulled Chicken, Carrots and Celery that Mr. Sietsema so raved about just a month ago in his review. It was superb, and perhaps because it was the executive chef's night off, his experience of way too much salt was oddly the opposite!

I tried the superb WILD MUSHROOM RISOTTO with Smoked Gouda Cheese, Grilled Asparagus and White Truffle Oil that was an al dente dream. The entrees were excellent with my DUCK CONFIT consisting of two legs and thighs in a HUCKLEBERRY SAUCE with an ARUGULA, PARMESAN (& tomato) Salad on the side. A huge paper cone of TRUFFLE FRIES came with the dish and were so superior to Samuel's that he enjoyed mine as well. Will opted for the NATURAL ANGUS BEEF BRISKET with Root Vegetables and Jus. It was a thick tasty gravy and the meat was cut super thin and tender. Perhaps it was the Angus, or the recipe, or both...but this dish is a winner if you want an amazing pot roast that melts in your mouth.

A nice glass MENAGE A TROIS 2004 from FOLIE a DEUX in NAPA helped me finish the duck, while Will had a glass of Bodegas SALENTEIN Mendoza Estate Malbec 2004 to wash his brisket down.

We were all full and unimpressed by the dessert menu, but nonetheless got a couple little bags of homemade popcorn which had plain as well as PINK MARZEPAN popcorn mixed in (which Samuel did not like at all), but I thought was novel and tasty.

I would return but not when it's real cold, and ask to sit where it's warmer!

Manhattan's MOLYVOS makes much of fish

MOLYVOS in NY City just next to Carnegie Hall (www.molyvos.com - 871 7th Avenue at 56th St) has long been considered one of the top Greek spots to dine in NY City and has historically carried top prices as well.

We dined there the other night before a concert which began at 730pm, and we had a 530pm reservation, as did many other folks. The front doorway was crowded and drafty (the temps were way below freezing) as people gathered to be seated since they don't open until 530pm. We were actually not seated until about 5:40pm (even though we had checked in by 5:20pm). This was not so bad, except that my Mom can't stand long and had to take a seat at a nearby table since there was no place to sit other than the bar with very high stools. We quickly ordered a bar appetizer of TARAMOSALATA which we had both remembered over the years as the best around; it isn't anymore. Somebody changed the recipe, and while it is GOOD, it is no longer AMAZING; it got less creamy than it was. The warm pita and olive bread chunks were super, and the accompanying Red Pepper Puree was as good as the Tarama; we just could have had that!

My mom ordered her drink which was good-sized for its price ($10 for call brands) and I asked for a glass of ASSYRTIKO-ROBOILLA, Kallista from Domaine Mercouri on Ilias which was $13 and the pour was easily UNDER 4 ounces. I mentioned this to the server and he did not offer to fill the glass much more, but my second glass, an XINOMAVROS AKIKIES Ktima Kir-Yianni Rose from Amyrideon was filled to the brim of the mini-carafe. Both wines were superb, by the way, just be sure the carafe is full.

I was pretty hungry, so I ordered the appetizer of OCTOPUS SALAD, and the server asked me if I wanted the "cold salad," and I said yes, not realizing there were two. Well, there was only one, and it was deliciously warm (not hot) and loaded with chunks of tender sliced octopus, roasted peppers, lots of fresh ripe tomatoes, greens and a lemon and olive oil emulsion.

We both ordered fish for our entrees, and I think this is one of Molyvos' specialties. My Mom's Herb Crusted ARCTIC CHAR was slow cooked with a super tasty, super crunchy skin and served with BLACK EYES PEAS, Red Onion, Tomato, Dandelion Greens, Extra Virgin olive Oil, Lemon & Dill and she could not stop raving. My SAUTEED SKATE PASTOURMA with Basmati Rice, House Pickled Peppers and an amazing WALNUT AVGOLEMONO (that fabulous chicken lemon soup so famous in Greece) sauce was simply spectacular.

It was still early, so I ordered a dessert that said, "please allow ample time." I asked the server how long it took, and he said no more than 15 minutes. Over 25 minutes later as we were telling them we needed to go, a plate of LOUKOMADES arrived that were fritters (just fried dough really, and bland at that) soaked in CINNAMON THYME HONEY with Walnuts that was so sweet we could barely eat more than a couple each. We left over 1/2 the dish and headed out, happy about our entrees, but regretting the dessert.

The SOURCE-soaring prices, no pretenses, noisy, but satisfying

I had heard so much about THE SOURCE (www.wolfgangpuck.com) which opened last year in the new Newseum at 6th St, NW off Penna (address is 575 Penna Ave, NW, but the entrance is on 6th). Not being a fan of Mr. Puck and his see and be seen places and awful airport pizza, I had severe trepidations about this spot as well. Over several months, I have heard many raves and Mr. Sietsema gave it 2-1/2 stars, perhaps just because it has some very good food. While the food is good, and Mr. Sietsema raved about his reception, the four of us sat at the table for over 10 minutes before we had to get up and ask a server if we could perhaps get some attention (menus, ordering, etc-you know, those things one expects when paying over $100 each for dinner!).

I was immediately turned off by the extremely high noise levels in the entire place (the main floor bar and "pizza" place, as well as the second floor dining room where we were), and the woman cackling at super-high decibels at the next table didn't help. The moving settees for two are a bit awkward, but not uncomfortable, and the decor is decent, although not inspiring, with a huge glass walled in wine cellar and some modern globe-like light fixtures.

We persevered and our server was extremely nice once she did arrive. The food tends to spicy, and this starts with a complimentary bowl of SZECHUAN GREEN BEANS and CANDIED WALNUTS which are addictive. The only problem was that when our wine arrived, my palate was shot from the chilis.

I had ordered a pricey (well, not really pricey on THIS wine list; as there are only about 3 wines under $30, and about the same number between $30-40--so expect to fork out between $50-80 to start, unless you want cheap stuff) PINOT NOIR 2005 from St INNOCENT "Seven Springs" which was decent, but not impressive. I have always loved St Innocent, but perhaps the spice had numbed my palate; perhaps the server should have steered us to a bigger wine or a Zinfandel based on the food style. I was beginning to feel The SOURCE was decent, but not impressive overall (except for the String Beans!). Before the wine was served I asked our server for a piece of bread or cracker to "get back my palate," but they had to "order" the bread and it never came anyway. What was that all about?

The appetizers were indeed hits from my "TINY DUMPLINGS" of Pork Belly in a sauce of Black Vinegar, mild Chili Oil, Ginger & Cilantro. They were quite tasty, and the portion size was decent; a step above any Chinese dumpling I have had for sure. Another hit was the Tandoori ARCTIC CHAR with Pickled Cucumber, Tomato Chutney & Cardamom Raita - again a huge portion for an appetizer. The Warm LOBSTER-DAIKON Roll came in at over $20, but when requested in vegetarian form, the price dropped to a semi-decent $12, and the CRISPY SUCKLING PICK with Black Plum Puree, Pickled Cipollini and Sweat Beans was another star.

Two of the entrees were huge: a decent Vegetarian Platter (it had to be requested as there were no veggie items on the menu) and our stupendous LACQUERED CHINESE DUCKLING with Wild Huckleberries, Pea Tendrils and CHOW FUN. This came in a monstrous bowl (of awful design as the utensils kept sliding in and getting sticky!) with almost what seemed to be an entire duck with the most delightful and crispiest of skins. The Chow Fun came separately and was a concoction of pappardelle-like pasta ribbons, bok choy and some chilis as well for a good boost of spice.

The smallest portion was the beautifully arranged and presented "American Style" KOBE SHORT RIBS, Slow cooked with Indian Spices & Masoor Dal. There were only several pieces of meat, and at $37, they could have been a bit more generous. Incidentally, the cheapest entree is chicken at $28, but the prices go up fast to Lobster or Kobe Steak at $62.

We split one dessert for two, while our new friends had coffee. The GRATED APPLE & ASIAN PEAR "PIE with Almond Crumble and Tahitian Vanilla Ice Cream, was more of a deconstructed pie or truly a crumble and was delectable. We were pleased that Executive Chef SCOTT DREWNO (who hails from Puck's Vegas hot spots) came around to check on us after the meal.

I guess I might return to the Source, but not too quickly, and not too often at those prices. I would order a Zinfandel, taste more appetizers, and maybe share a large entree instead. Who knows? For I am truly not the only source of information.

Bravos to BISTRO BIS' brunch

I have never been a big "brunch" person and prefer to do my eating at dinner time, but yesterday we had a special client visiting DC and needed to make it an early brunch. We opted for BISTRO BIS (http://www.bistrobis.com/index1.html) on Capitol Hill at the Hotel George, and must say we all had a simply splendid time.

We had a large roomy booth which was ever so comfortable and kept Samuel at bay with his crayons while we waited for his FRENCH TOAST BRIOCHE with Hazelnut Butter, Caramelized Banana and Vanilla Creme Fraiche. He would have none of the cream or banana, and so quickly got a scoop of vanilla ice cream instead from our speedy server! He devoured the several slices of bacon faster than a disposal and went on to eat one piece of the toast saying it was yummy. Will polished off the remainder.

Will's choice was the DUCK HASH Landaise which was a confit with Garlic Potatoes, Red Wine, Poached Eggs and Honey Vinegar Thyme sauce that was just perfect as the cold weather and wind was moving in. Our guest opted for the tasty GNOCCHI a LA FORESTIERE which were Parisien style (potato) gnocchi with Potiron Squash, Wild Mushrooms, Roasted Garlic & Fresh Sage..a tasty concoction, and so appropriate as she was departing for Paris that same day!

I chose two appetizers which were huge portions in themselves: STEAK TARTARE was a perfect preparation with yummy coarse mustard and cornichons that I lingered over and then went on to the TARTE FLAMBE ALSACIENNE which is a traditional pizza-like flat Alsatian tarte of caramelized onoin, bacon and fromage blanc--It was SUPERB!

Everything was so filling that only our guest tried the CREME BRULEE (but I could not even taste another bite) which she loved. It has been way too long since we were at BIS and now know we have to go back for more French food on the hill!

Tasty TABERNA del ALABARDERO still amazes in DC

Ok, I know you think we must be insane, but we did go out again for the THIRD tasting dinner in eight nights this past Wednesday. We figure that it's winter, quiet and just the right time to plan these dinners and enjoy them with friends and clients alike. I do promise, no more tastings for some time!

This time is was TABERNA del ALABARDERO (www.alabardero.com) downtown DC's bastion of gourmet Spanish cuisine. It has been years since we have been there, and we were a bit concerned that it might have lost some of its cache with the recent departure of longtime chef Santi Zaballeta. WRONG! His sous chef DANI has taken over and is handling the kitchen wonderfully, and the excellent caring and courteous staff make it simply a treat to dine here. Add the elegant warm decor that really can't be described as other than Old World cushy and you have a fine night out with great food:

CAVA BRUT 1+1=3 was our starter sparkling wine and it went wonderfully with a superb selection of FOUR TAPAS 1)Tortilla Espanola was a traditional Spanish omelette cut into squares, and was quite filling, so I left this to move on to the 2)Gambas al Ajillo which were spicy and loaded with garlic--yum,yum 3)Fried Croquettes Balls of Cheese, Potato and Serrano Ham were creamy, but petite, but the winner was 4)PULPITO a la GALLEGA, gorgeous whole baby octopi with baked potatoes, extra virgin olive oil and sweet paprika

By this time we had moved on to the first white recommended by Gustavo and he chose brilliantly: 2006 NORA ALBARINO from Rias Baixas had the creamiest flavor I have ever had for an Albarino and was perfect with all the seafood as well.

Our next course was ENSALADA de ENDIVAS con PALMITOS, Mousse de CARBALES y GRANIZADO de Miel made up of the tastiest (and in no way bitter) Endive with Hearts of Palm and a light and not intense mousse in the center made from Spanish Blue Cabrales cheese mixed with Honey Ices. The slight chill from the mousse would make this a really great war weather dish as well, but also its lightness worked within the frame of a huge meal like ours.

Next came CARACOLES con CHIPRIRONES SALTEADOS, Hojaldre Salsa de Setas y TInta Negra which was a brilliant assemblage of sauteed snails (escargots) with tender circlets of squid lying on a ring of mashed potatoes with a Lemon & Mushroom Emulsion Sauce drizzled with Black Squid Ink, on the side was a small puff pastry. The sauce was stupendous and the combination of escargot and squid simply a work of genius.

The next white wine was the 2005 ABADAL BLANC from Pla de Bages made from Chardonnay, Sauvignon Blanc and Picapoll and was actually lighter than the Albarino and most akin to the Sauvignon Blanc, although not to citrusy. Honestly, I would have reversed the two whites as the next course was also quite rich in texture: ESPARRAGOS Rellenos de TXANGURRO y ESPINACAS Salteadas con Crema de BOGAVANTE sounds exotic and was another tasty creation of Asparagus and Basque Style Crab Meat, Sauteed Spinach and Lobster Bisque all enclosed in a Fried Egg Crust (think Egg Foo Young) with some of the bisque drizzled over the top. Form the description, I was expecting a soup or bisque, which would have been too heavy; this was just perfect and with two spears and some crab not that huge.

You thought the entree was next? Well, you are partially correct. Upon arrival we looked at the special tasting menu and saw THREE "main courses." Will was confident this meant we were to choose. WRONG! First came a small and excellent plate of PAELLA de MARSICOS with mussels and clams, simple yet infused with saffron rice and merely a tease for our palates.

The second main course was HALIBUT en SALSA VERDE con ALMEJAS a beautiful fresh fish so moist and served in a Garlic-Parsley Sauce with tasty small Clams.

As we finished this we asked Gustavo to find a tasty intense red wine to finish with and he scored yet again with a Rioja 2001 REMELLURI RESERVA made from Tempranillo, Graciano and Mazuelo that was intense, not tannic and rich enough for our entree, but also fine enough to enjoy between courses.

The third main course was an amazing ENTRECOT con RULADA de RABO de TORO that was a Strip Loin with an Oxtail Roulade served in a cylindrical cake-like form with a crunchy crust and moist rich inside; asparagus appeared on the side as well. The loin seemed hard to cut, but was oddly as tender as possible in the mouth--thank goodness for those sharp Laguiole knives, but the star on this plate and of the meal for me was the Roulade!

We enjoyed a break before the first dessert came in the form of FRESAS MACERADAS, Bizcocho de Vanilla y Helado de Yogurt, a refreshing dish full of marinated strawberries so sweet over a small piece of vanilla sponge cake and Yogurt Ice Cream. We all enjoyed a wonderful glass or two of CASTA DIVA COJECHA MIEL 2005 an superb sweet Alicante Moscatel that I have always enjoyed. It was perfect with the final TARTA GUADALQUIVAR, a traditional Chocolate delight from Seville.

We are grateful for our kind server Martha, who never seems to feed us too fast, and was always there to explain everything, and the whole staff at Taberna who made this Spanish tasting a real treat.

It was also nice to see retired opera star Mattiwilda Dobbs at the next table, as she has always been a fixture in the Washington vocal scene, but has not been out much lately due to a bad back (she is having surgery this month and we all wish her a speedy recovery!).

RJ Cooper's vivacious cuisine at the venerated VIDALIA

Approximately 6 years ago we started going to TOKA Cafe on 19th Street and had the pleasure of enjoying then rising chef RJ Cooper III's exciting cuisine. We returned again and again, and brought many of our friends who fell in love and returned as well. As fate will have it, Toka closed and Chef Cooper moved on to other places in town, most recently taking over at VIDALIA (www.vidaliadc.com) as Chef de Cuisine under the guidance of chef/owner Peter Buben. In those several years, Chef Cooper has honed his talent and ingenuity and last year was rewarded with the James Beard Mid-Atlantic Region Chef of the Year Award for his amazing work.

Last night, after a way too long absence (although I was there last fall for a James Beard Foundation event) we returned to the now even more elegant VIDALIA (1990 M St, NW) for a spectacular tasting menu that surely will go down as one of the best around. It really is great that we have so many chefs in DC willing to do these magnificent displays of their excellent talent.

The four of us sat down to a superb 1998 NICOLAS FEUILLATTE Blanc de Blanc Champagne that was yeasty, full of fruit and really a wonderful revelation at its 10-year peak. The champagne was served for quite some time while we enjoyed three separate and brilliant AMUSE: KUMAMOTO Oyster in GEWURTZTRAMINER Gelee, Fennel Emulsion, Osetra Caviar was our first blast of taste from the kitchen and we yearned for more.

The presentation of the second amuse is worth a paragraph in itself. A tilted stemless martini glass was on the right side of a rectangular plate filled partially with a creamy BRANDADE with Smoked Gelee, on the left two large piles of caviar: WHITEFISH from Montana and GRINNEL (I think from Tenn.) under a domed glass which was removed, reversed and then filled with a SMOKED VEGETABLE CONSOMME. We were instructed to savor the two caviars mixed with the brandade and then sip the broth almost as a palate cleanser. The latter was one of the best broths I have ever had; boy could I use it when I get sick! We savored
every bite and could decide which caviar we liked better, but it was simply a wonderful experience.

Amuse #3 was a Torchon of Smoked Hudson Valley FOIE GRAS dusted with Valrhona COCOA and served with Chocolate MOLE, Sundried CHERRY PUREE and a dash of BLIS 100 year old Sherry BALSAMIC. The flavors all together were creamy, rich and at times acidic depending on whether you included the balsamic or not. It was loads of fun to have the foie gras with each or several of the "condiments"; I forgot to ask why the dish was called "Foie Gras, Valrhona Cocoa, minus 8"?

Please also don't forget the tasty cornbread, exquisite mini-popover muffins and the luscious onion compote to spread on them.

The first course was simply called HAMACHI 2008 and was a novel treatment of the traditional sashimi dish with four separate presentations in a row:
HAMACHI with OYSTER & ANCHOVY was first and was a blast of fish, shellfish and that wonderfully salty fresh anchovy.
HAMACHI with AVOCADO Puree was next and while very flavorful, really stressed the fish itself.
HAMACHI with BLOOD ORANGE and Micro Greens was third and the final blast and wildly creative was HAMACHI with OLIVE OIL SORBET and WONTON. The fish had a slice of fried wonton with the sorbet scoop leveled atop that and was truly tasty, especially with another hint of blood orange.

The wine is one I must look for as it tasted glorious alone and paired perfectly: 2005 MULLER-CATOIR RIESLING Trocken(dry) from Pfalz, Germany.

Pasta may have a new friend in Chef Cooper as he served ORECCHIETTE laden with sliced PERIGORD TRUFFLES and Two year old Parmeggiano Reggiano. The wine was a Perigord novelty as well: 2001 TIRECUL la GRAVIERE which was a tasty blend of Semillon, Muscatel and Sauvignon Blanc from Montbazillac in Dordogne, France; even more amazing since I generally don't care for Semillon!

The fish course was a BLACK COD, HATTERAS STEW which had a stew of baby octopi, oysters, potato and more topped with a flaky perfect piece of cod with a crunchy yellowfin potato crust. The wine was a blend of six premier cru vineyards from Beaune in Burgundy called 2002 BOUCHARD 1er CRU BEAUNE de CHATEAU that we all marveled at.

We asked our amazing server Gene for a slight break as we knew the meat course was next and while waiting a while sipped the next wine, a huge intense and slightly spicy Shiraz 2005 TORBRECK "The Struie" from Barossa Valley Australia which went just superbly with the KAGOSHIMA WAGYU BEEF BRISKET and Smoked Puree of Potato. This was actually two preparations of Wagyu flown in from Japan: the first was an extremely rare seared piece of meat while the second was the 24 hour braised brisket cooked to perfection and a side of mirepoix of veggies. These were dusted with two types of rock salt tableside: Indian sulfuric and Himalayan; I guess that's the new fun trend these days as I've had it like four times since December!

Dessert was CHOCOLATE "en Cubism" which was a huge plate covered with all types of chocolate ganache goodies in 1/2 inch squares and dots of cherry jelly, mint, pistachio and berry creams and coulis. It was lots of fun and since the pieces were small, not too intense. Two small scoops of creamy yummy ice cream help cut the chocolate intensity: Chocolate Mint and Raw Sugar.

A 2004 M. CHAPOUTIER Banyuls from France was perfect with the chocolate as the Late Harvest Mourvedre seems to be so wonderful in balancing almost any chocolate dessert.

One can't possibly leave without Mignardises and they were loads of fun as well. ANother long rectangular plate arranged with one each of the following was placed for each of us (so we didn't have to share anything!):
Divinity
Cocoa truffle
Mint Chocolate truffle
one each Raspberry and Apricot gelee
miniature Southern Red Velvet cake in the most adorable of mini-foil cupcake holders
and my notes say White Chocolate ??
oops, too much scribbling, and of course, a glass of LUSTAU East India Sherry was a sweet treat to send us home.

I have a funny feeling you will be reading more about Vidalia and Chef Cooper not only from me, but in many other places as well! Kudos to the entire staff under General Manager Michael Nevarez who knows how to run a restaurant!

Correction: Someone is doing their reading well, and just noted that I wrote VIDALIA is owned by Chef "Peter" Bubin and it is indeed JEFFREY BUBEN. A thousand apologies for my faux pas to all and the Bubens as well. Luckily there was not a single mistake last night with our excellent meal!

The MAJESTIC of Alexandria is regally royal

Last night we returned to The MAJESTIC at 911 King Street in Alexandria, VA (www.majesticcafe.com) which was recently purchased and revamped by its present owners the Armstrongs (of Restaurant Eve and Eamonn's Fish & Chips in the same neighborhood) clearly improving on what was once really a glorified diner.

Gone are the black and white old photos from the dining area and replaced with subdued recessed lighting which really enhances the feel. There are no fancy linens and the simplicity remains, but the menu is very different and allows many options and a fine wine list with superb Schott crystal makes my day.

We started with a bottle of KEN FORRESTER 2007 Sauvignon Blanc from South Africa that was so creamy and rich, we thought it had to be oaked! It was so good, we had a 2nd bottle! The two boys munched the excellent biscuits and sipped Shirley Temples or Ginger Ales and ordered the amazingly priced $5.00 children's PASTA with Red Sauce. I was amazed at the quality of the amazing homemade pasta, which the chef called Fettucine, but it was a thicker, tastier (they called it Northern Italian) version almost akin to long strozzapretti! They also had a yummy side dish of Glazed Carrots.

Huge portions would be an understatement here, as my STEAMED MUSSELS with APPLES, Cider Cream, Bacon and Shallots must have had 3 dozen of the plump tasty bivalves. This is easily one of the best mussel dishes around with great flavor in the thick broth, but also because they are squirted with the tasty cider cream (that looks like cake icing because it is white). The FRIED CALAMARI is the crunchiest around without a hint of grease for miles as are the excellent FRIED GREEN TOMATOES with Artichoke-Onion Ragu and Parmesan Barigoule Sauce. The CHICKEN PATE was also rich and creamy, but I thought the winner was my
mussels by a mile.

Our red wine is also served by the glass so we were able to taste it before ordering a bottle of the HUGH HAMILTON Sangiovese Blend "The Mogul" 2005 from McLaren Vale, Australia. The wine was spicy with hints of cloves and not huge, but just right to go with several different entrees. When the bottle itself came, it was way to chilled (the cellar is kept at 55 degrees) and it took quite some time for the fullness of the wine to be experienced; this is our only real complaint about the entire dining experience.

The entrees were all superb: SEARED SCALLOPS with Oyster Cream, Swiss Chard, Potato and Wild Mushrooms was a big hit as was the tender and tasty PORK RIB CHOP with Brussels Sprouts, Bacon, Apple-Onion Ragout and Cider Jus. My CALVES LIVER with Onion, House Cured Bacon in a Red Wine Sauce was simply perfectly cooked, but so large I had to take some home.

Our server, David, deserves kudos for handling the four of us, plus the two boys so well. On Sundays, Majestic offers a Sunday dinner special (if ordered in advance) and the place was booked solid from the time we arrived at 5pm, until we left at almost 730pm! Kudos to the whole staff under Chef Shannon "Red" Overmiller for getting everything out so perfectly.

The desserts were a bit heavy or creamy for my tastes (very modern take on traditional American, which is nice, but not my style), so I opted for the AMERICAN FARMHOUSE CHEESE PLATTER which had 5 super cheeses last night:
BERKSHIRE BLUE from Mass was a sharp intense blue, but not overpowering at all
GRAFTON Vermont CHEDDAR
SAN ANDREAS hard goat from Calif
GRAYSON from Mass
and my favorite, the soft, almost alive goat BOM BOUCHE from Vermont that was tart and intense.

The platter came with a tasty quince paste and balsamic (this worked nicely with most of the cheeses) and a yummy homemade NUT TOFFEE which was like peanut brittle that had not yet hardened.

Pastry chef Rebecca Willis has numerous offerings such as the LEMON CARAMEL TARTLET with lots of whipped cream and Dulce de Leche Ice Cream, CHOCOLATE & BUTTERSCOTCH PARFAIT which has butterscotch pudding, brownie bits and Grand Marnier whipped cream and a BROWNIE & PEANUT BUTTER CREAM Sandwich with Chocolate Ice Cream. The boys enjoyed Dulce de Leche Ice Cream, although Samuel was not thrilled and got a replacement scoop of Lemon Sorbet; what great service.

I have to get back to Majestic soon just to try the MEATLOAF since nobody ordered it!

CITYZEN zooms right in on the fabulous end for food

Last night we returned to CITYZEN at the Mandarin Oriental Washington (http://www.mandarinoriental.com/hotel/535000428.asp) after a way too long two year hiatus, but then the pricing of this top rated posh spot makes it a place one does not go to regularly (unless you are related to Bill Gates!). These days the menu has three options, a 3 course a la carte at $75.00, a 6 course vegetarian tasting at $90, or the Chef's tasting menu at $105 for 6 courses (both tastings offer wines by the glass at an extra $75).

Two of us could not resist the tasting menu, while Will went for a la carte.

We started with a glass of Chatogne-Taillet Brut Champagne from Merfy which is a small grower (Will got a kick out of this term) making a super yeasty bubbly that we all adored.

Chef Eric Ziebold is having lots of fun with his amuses these days and they were all superb starting with the MUSHROOM FRITTER over Mushroom Puree and Truffle Oil, continuing with the GREEN EGGS & HAM (which is one of Samuel's favorite books these days!) which is a magnificent assembly of QUAIL EGG with Ham Salad with Leek Puree. Himalayan Rock Salt is shaved over this to replace the egg yolk, and it has that sulphery smell of yolk! A third amuse was a LOBSTER BROTH which really needs to be renamed as it was thicker and richer than broth, but not a bisque and had a wonderful cappuccino-like froth on top served in an espresso cup.

One of these amuses (I forget which) was for those of us on the tasting menu, while Will received a yummy creamy rich OLIVE OIL CUSTARD instead (I had to taste!).

The breads came and I think this may be the only sore spot at Cityzen. While the bread was very good, the choices SOUNDED better than they tasted: Bacon Cheese Potato, Guinness (beer) Rye and Country all were fresh, but did not really taste much from their named ingredients. Of course, the big winner at Cityzen is the little jewelry box presentation of the magnificent mini-Parker House rolls with the main course! Our first wine was a Grenache Blanc/Gris 2005 from Domaine de la Dourbie in Coteau de Languedoc which has a huge acidity but lots of flavors which went very well with our fish courses. Will started with
the PAN ROASTED ROUELLE OF SPOTTED SKATEWING with Meyer Lemon, Spanish Caper, and Cardoon Gratin which was rich and creamy from the cardoon (thistle-related) gratin and sauce. His entree was the excellent RHODE ISLAND MONKFISH STEW with Caramelized Celery Root, York Apple, Braised Salsify Applewood Smoked Bacon and Matelotte Sauce.

Our wonderful main menu started with CARPACCIO OF ATLANTIC FLUKE Fuyu Persimmon, Puffed Japanese Sweet Rice, Micro Peppercress and Pomegranate Vinaigrette which was wonderfully crunchy due to the rice and full of so many flavors it was hard to experience them all, but we tried. Next came GRILLED ATLANTIC DAY BOAT SCALLOPS with Belgian Endive Marmelade, Citrus Velouté and Lobster Oil which is easily one of the top scallop dishes around these days. As we finished our fish we started on a bottle of PODERI ELIA Barbaresco 2000 "Serracapilli" which was a bit tight at first so we let it open up; after 30 minutes, we opted to go on to another red, and save the Barberesco for our cheese course as it was just sooooo big.

Our tasting continued with POLLY-FACE FARMS POUSSIN with Dried Currant and Italian Pistachio Mousse, Parsnip Purée, Sugar Pie Pumpkin and Swiss Chard Rouelle. The chard was done up like a nori wrap and the mousse was more like polenta in consistency, all of which made this dish a great experience.

We moved on to our second red, a 2005 DOMAINE de PIAUGOT Sablet from Tenebi which is made from the Cunoise varietal, a rarer but not expensive and very excellent wine that goes with just about everything.

BRAISED KAGOSHIMA KUROGE BEEF SHORTRIBS with Marinated Beets, Cipollini Onions, and Caramelized Salsify was our big meat course and the meat was superb, perfectly cooked off the bone, moist, tasty and not too large either.

As most of you know, before coming back to DC, Chef Ziebold was Executive Chef at the French Laundry in Napa, and it is clear that his style, flair and multi-course meals are a direct result of that experience. I can easily say that it is like having our own version of the Laundry here in DC (especially since our meal ended up being 12 courses including the amuses and post-desserts!).

The cheese course from the trolley was loads of fun and offered up some of the best variety around: Latur from Lombardy (Italy), Fromage de MEAUX, a superb triple creme goat cheese from KUNIK, New York, Brascinella Staginata, a cow HOULIGAN from Connecticut, Caschel from Ireland, PECORINO di Nocce, a crunchy and wonderfully nutty tasting ROOMANO 5year aged GOUDA. Will munched on some English DORSET in honor of his homeland. The plates came with Apricot and Anjou Pear
Marmalades which were yummy as well.

Our dessert was a CHEESECAKE CHIBOUST with Soft Graham Cracker and Passionfruit Sauce, perfectly light and in no way over-filling. Will's super dessert was a MAPLE & PECAN TARTE with Sugar Pumpkin Ice Cream, but as I mentioned, it was nowhere near over. A tasty glass of MOSCATO d'ASTI came as we moved on to the post desserts of HUCKLEBERRY Sorbet in Peanut Tuille with Peanut Butter Bavaroise Creme!! and then the PINEAPPLE SORBET with Spiced Rum Granita. Almost four hours after we arrived the mignardises of Orange Jellies, Hazelnut Chocolates and Caramel Butter Cream Macaroons arrived before we headed home very
happy.

Incidentally, kudos to the entire staff under manager Mark Politzer who are friendly, attentive, kind and helpful at every turn. I also must note that sommelier Andy Meyers, who has one of the most varied wine cellars in town, is always helpful and will not hesitate to recommend an excellent $40 bottle as well as one for ten or twenty times as much!

D'ACQUA - delicious but also a disappointment re:Rest Week

Last night we took Samuel to D'ACQUA which over a year ago took over the space vacated by the ill-fated SIGNATURES at 801 Pennsylvania Ave, NW (tel 202-783-7717). The gorgeous sleek, warm and elegant feel is now gone and replaced by a bistro feel of muted terra cotta arches and walls, green tablecloths and shimmery sheer drapes. Sadly, the drapes adorn the floor-to-ceiling windows which allowed way too much cold air to penetrate (ok, it was the coldest night this winter) them.

The long L-shaped bar remains, now with two flat screen TV's that can be seen from most of the dining room; I hate this. Televisions are fine for bars and cheap establishments as pizza parlors, but not for a fine dining location.

Samuel did get a great plate of PENNE Pasta with Fresh Tomato Sauce and lots of cheese, which was so huge, we took home more than half of it. I could not help feel that they don't really want to cater to children (even though the dish was available and only $10) and this was somehow evident in the speed with which every course was delivered; WAY TOO FAST. We were out of there in just over an hour, which is just ridiculous, especially when the place is not that full and the table is not needed (which is still NO EXCUSE!).

Will and I took one look at the $30.08 3-course Restaurant Menu with its somewhat unexciting 4 appetizers and totally boring 3 entrees and decided to go a la carte, raising the price of dinner about $40-50, but at least giving us some delicious food that we desired.

Incidentally, the three entrees were a Ravioli with Chard and Ricotta filling, Salmon and a Lamb Steak; see what I mean. Furthermore, why should an establishment known for fish offer only ONE fish entree; this is a total lack of understanding of Restaurant Week.

Anyway, we ordered a delicious bottle of VINNAE JERMANN 2005 Bianco Veneziana Giulia from Friuli, clearly a blend of wines which neither the waiter (when asked)nor the bottle elaborated on. Excellent long thin breadsticks and some of the best FOCACCIA around with fresh tomatoes on every giant slice made us happy as Samuel conducted with the breadsticks!

We ordered Samuel's pasta at about 7:10pm and it arrived steeping hot less than 5 minutes later and our appetizers followed shortly thereafter before 7:15. Will had the BURATA CHEESE and a gorgeous CHERRY TOMATO SALAD wrapped in a cucumber cylinder ring. I adored the tender, tasty BABY CLAMS with WHITE WINE and loaded with Garlic, but must agree with Mr. Sietsema (of the Wash Post) that the one piece of grilled bread that accompanies it is not nearly enough to mop up the yummy broth. How chincy can one be with the bread?

At about 730pm our entrees arrived while we still had our appetizer plates in front of us; for me this is unacceptable, Will had the tasty MONKFISH wrapped in PANCETTA with fresh Herbs, Lemon, Extra Virgin Olive Oil and Shitake Mushrooms, while I opted for the GROUPER with SAUSAGE & LENTILS which was a huge portion loaded with simply cooked fish and a superb sauce of lentils and tons of slightly spicy sausage chunks.

Sam enjoyed a tasty scoop of MIXED BERRY Sorbet which came with one blackberry and one slice of strawberry (do I seem cynical here?), which he wolfed down and proceeded to lick the plate as well. I joked that he might consider eating the plate and he mockingly took a bite of it! Will and I decided to opt for the signature STRUDEL which was Banana with Raisins with Pecans in Caramel Sauce on the menu. Our server apologized and said that because the strudel was one of the 3 or 4 choices on the Restaurant week menu they had run out of it (and it was only about 655pm!). Will decided on the TIRAMISU and I had a bite feeling very full and just wanting to leave..which we did at 710pm.

So, while the dishes were great, for the most part, I felt the warmth was at tepid and the speed to fast, and the essence of Restaurant Week totally missing.

Restaurant K by Alison Swope swings in with winners

As we all know Restaurant Week can be hit or miss, but the brand new Restaurant K by Alison Swope (1700 K St, NW Washington tel 202-974-6545) is a sure hit. They are offering up not only 90% of the large superb menu for the special $30.08 three course deal, but also have 4 white and 5 red wines at the same price which are a steal. Add this to the fact that Alison Swope has always been a success here in DC from her opening of New Heights thru Santa Fe East and most recently for many years at Andale in the Penn Quarter. The dining room is quite large with a large bar area as well, but was never noisy. The decor is unremarkable, but cozy with lots of roomy booths and earthy tones.

Even on Restaurant Week the amuse comes out and ours was a tiny but tasty GORGONZOLA & WALNUT SHORTBREAD with Housemade FIG JELLY. The cheese was not overpowering at all in the "bread" slice and indeed had just the right amount of flavor. Our amazing $30.08 bottle of TORII MOR Pinot Noir 2006 from the Willamette Valley in Oregon was a perfect match for just about anything on the menu; big full-bodied and loaded with fruit, this is a can't miss wine, especially at this price!

My dining companion (Will needed a stay at home night after a full week of Restaurant Week lunches working at Kinkead's!) and I decided to share our courses, so we wisely ordered different options and shared plates. Our server William was a genius in giving us ideas and options from the large menu.

We started with the LAMB SAUSAGE on PLANTAIN "Tostones" with Goat Cheese and Parsley Pistou. There were three large slices of slightly spicy and very tasty sausage and the small round plantain tostones were soft and a nice foil with the soft runny goat cheese. The parsley pistou was a vibrant green, but parsley always seems to have virtually no taste for me; besides, everything else on the plate was so tasty, it was perfect. The WILD MUSHROOM BAKLAVA is really more of a Napoleon with PIPE DREAMS FRAM GOAT CHEESE, Balsamic Reduction and Roasted Sweet Pepper Puree. It was another large, tasty and filling, if slightly rich dish, and my only suggestion is to increase the layering of the phyllo so that there is more pastry that does not get absorbed into what should be more "baklava-like."

We rested and contemplated the regular menu deciding we must return for the LOBSTER SHEPHERD's PIE one day soon! Our entrees were amazing, two huge portions with loads of flavors and tastes all around. The CHICKEN TWO WAYS uses Bell & Evans Organic BREAST which is grilled and marinated, while the whole LEG & THIGH is braised witrh DATES, APPLEWOOD SMOKED BACON & OLIVES. The dish comes with thick papardelle-like BUCKWHEAT NOODLES which could have used a bit more separattion, but worked great with the sauce. The PORK OSSO BUCO could become a signature dish here with hints of spice from the Pasilla Chiles all in a RED WINE Sauce with a whole half Braised Green Cabbage and a tasty LEMON-THYME POPOVER, which here is more like a Yorkshire Pudding due to the rich gravy-like wine sauce.

When it comes to Chef Swope, I dream back to her first plate of signature cheesecake (that believe it or not, the Washingtonian trashed, and I immediately canceled my subscription!) at New Heights twenty-something years ago. Today she has tweaked the cake and it is an excellent creamy tasty WHITE CHOCOLATE version with COCONUT CRUST and Berry Sauce. The CORNBREAD & APPLE PUDDING with Fresh Goat Milk CARAMEL and Fresh (Straw) Berries is another treat. The best way to describe this is to think Cornbread Flan with slight hints of apple, although the delicious berries do overpower the apples if included in a bite-no matter.

We both left very full and very happy and it was even more of a miracle that the total bill (without tip) with wine and tax was just $100!

Restaurant week begins with a Wondrous WILLOW time

Washington's bi-annual Restaurant Week began yesterday and runs through this Sunday with many fine establishments offering 3 course lunches for $20.08 and 3 course dinners for $30.08.

Last night we took Samuel and joined our friends with their two children at what was one of the best Restaurant Week meals we have ever had. Chefs Tracy O'Grady & Kate Jansen of WILLOW RESTAURANT in Arlington (www.willowva.com where you can see the full menu for Restaurant Week) offered up a plethora of choices and the best meal we have ever had at Willow as well. Restaurant Week is taken very seriously here and it has even been extended for an additional week (they are virtually fully booked this week, but you might squeeze in from Jan 21-27 if you book now; tell them I sent you!). The choices are vast, the portions are huge and the food is superb!

We got the kids started with their food while we sipped on a medium body DOLCETTO d'ALBA "Majano" 2005 from Piero Busso in Piedmont that was actually a bit more intense than a usual Dolcetto. Samuel had what has become one of Chef Jansen's signature dishes, the FLATBREAD Margherita, which is a totally flat and superb pizza with fresh tomato, basil chiffonade, scallions, Fontina & Parmesan cheeses. He wolfed down almost all of this and there were 12 small to huge square pieces on the plate (we all helped him a bit). Samuel said it was just like the pizza in Italy; a big compliment in my book! The CHICKEN FINGERS & Steak Fries were no less impressive and could win a DC's Best Chicken Fingers award hands down (or should I say "fingers down")! The moist white meat had a slightly spiced breading which the kids (and we) all gobbled up!

Our meals started with a selection of appetizers including the excellent soups such as the inventive SPICY COCONUT GINGER LIME Soup with Sweet Potato, Fried Yucca & Chili Oil or the smooth rich satisfying creamy PARNSIP Soup with Toasted Walnuts and swirls of purple beet juice. If you want a salad, head right for the NAPOLEON of BEET & Vermont GOAT CHEESE which has the red chopped beets on a button of mild goat, a selection of purple and gold beets with Candied WALNUTS and Arugula and another super button of slightly aged goat with a minimum punch.

The heavier appetizers included an amazing SEARED SHRIMP with BUTTERNUT SQUASH RAVIOLI, Mushroom and a Light Smoked Tomato Sauce. The pasta was perfect and a huge mushroom filled out the plate along with a tracing of Pancetta for spice and yummy Sunflower Seeds as well. The heaviest starter, but no less brilliant, is the CHESTNUT GNOCCHI with DUCK CONFIT, White beans, Brussels Sprouts and Carrots which are served almost like a mini-stew in a large ramekin.

We moved on to a wonderful full bodied CHIANTI-COLLI FIORENTINI Riserva 2003 from Castello di Poppiano which has a fab smooth finish to boot. It was great with our meats which included the again huge-portioned YOURNEDOS of PEPPER CRUSTED FILET MIGNON (on the Restaurant Week menu!!) with Gouda Potato Tart, Red Wine Mushrooms, to die for Crispy ONION RINGS and Beef Jus. Sam and I tried to gobble the Onion Rings off everyone's plate who had them! The Miniature RACK of PORK was anything but "miniature." Two huge portions were Stuffed with HOUSE MADE SAUSAGE and the magnificent CREAMY SPINACH was served in a tartelette with yummy Roasted Cipollini Onions and some Caramelized onions on the side. The meat was juicy and tender with a wonderful combination of spices from the sausage as well. I must also note the excellent use of the pastry tarts for the spinach and potato by Pastry Chef extraordinaire Kate Jansen.

Speaking of pastry, it was a hard decision when it came to dessert with something for everyone. The children each had a huge scoop of rich Raspberry Sorbet (almost like sherbet) with huge fresh raspberries (Samuel begged for all the extras!). The adults went from Chocoholic Cake to a superb rich and even more filling APPLE FLORENTINE TORTE with Vanilla Bean Ice Cream to my WHITE MOLTEN CHEESECAKE with Raspberry Sauce which was intense but not too large or overpowering. So few chefs want to use white chocolate, and this was a treat as I adore it. Even the adorable wafer that came with it was delish and was embedded with the droplets of dark chocolate, which Samuel adored as well, since we shared it.

Kudos to our server Chris who put up with the three 4+ year olds and I must say I think we all did a pretty amazing job and enjoyed a pretty amazing meal!

Cafe Un Deux Trois - Tasty but tripping; super soup at HALE & HEARTY

Yesterday I grabbed lunch at one of my favorite Times Square spots, Cafe Un Deux Trois (123 W 44th St) and as always had a pretty good meal.

Upon sitting down, I had to motion several times for my server to come over and take my order; he apparently thought I was waiting for someone else to join me (even though the chair opposite had my briefcase and coat piled on it).

I chose the tasty ONION SOUP GRATINEE which came oozing with cheese on top and needed only a dash of salt and pepper. I moved on to one of their better dishes the STEAK TARTARE and FRITES and this time decided to try the house mustard on my frites; it was heavenly. It was a sort of English-Chinese spicy yellow mustard and I asked the server what brand it was, but he never did get back to me.

I enjoyed a glass of BROUILLY Les Saburins 2005 from Louis Latour and both Brouilly and Beaujolais were misspelled on the menu (I guess they don't have an French employees who proofread).

When I asked for coffee and a refill on my water, I got the coffee, but with no sugar and had to ask for that and again for the water. As this was occuring, a small hubbub was brewing with four ladies at the next table. I saw one of them show their waiter a small plastic object that had been imbedded in her bread; it was about 1-1/2 inches long. He apologized and walked away. I was shocked that the manager was not there in seconds with profuse apologies. After several minutes the waiter returned to explain it was a small plastic Jesus doll and is part of the Three Kings Day tradition of the Latino staff to put this in the bread; apparently an error had occurred and one made it to the bread served with this woman's salad! I was still in shock that it took several more minutes for a headwaiter (the manager never did come) to apologize and finally after much coaxing offer the $10 salad for free. None of these women had even purchased the $20 prix fixe brunch dishes which comes with a drink (which is, by the way, a great deal here).

On my way out (I must mention I had to beg thrice to get my charge card run through so I could make my play on time!), the hostess (was she the manager?) asked how everything was, and I said, "fine, except for the failure at the next table." She told me thrice that it had been taken care of, even though after speaking with these nice women, I could not help feel they had not been treated properly. I hope the doll brings them better luck in the New Year.

A final note about the wonderful soups and sandwiches I have been munching on at NYC's chain HALE & HEARTY Soups (www.haleandhearty.com) which are located throughout the city and offer up some wonderful soups. Friday I had SENEGALESE CHICKEN SOUP which was a rich spicy thick tomato-based soup loaded with chicken and sprinkled with crushed peanuts. They have great salad/soup or sandwich/soup combos as well!

seek out CITRUS on NYC's Upper West Side

Saturday night I was treated to a wonderful dinner at CITRUS on the Upper West Side (www.citrusnyc.com at 320 Amsterdam Ave-at 75th St) by two dear friends of ours who live in the city. The choice was mine as I had been to Citrus almost two years ago with friends who live nearby for drinks and hor's d'oevres and really liked it; now I really LOVE it!

We started with martinis and they are nice sized tasty ones, but next time I will steer clear of the Prickly Pear as it is a bit too sweet with Prickly Pear Puree and Triple Sec on top of the Absolute Pears. We had these with some of the best SPICED EDAMAME ever made with three peppercorns, ancho chile and sea salt, which keeps you drinking, of course! Our other shared appetizer was the CHILE LIME SHRIMP CORN & QUESO FUNDIDO QUESADILLA which is a huge portion of six tasty triangles or shrimp and cheese with sides of tasty Guacamole and excellent PICO de GALLO, made of more fresh tomatoes than usual, which I really liked.

A plate of multi-colored chips always come with an intense-smokey tomato salsa that we could have kept eating for days as well! The cuisine here is fusion and I could not decide between pasta (Duck Pappardelle) or the Sushi Combo special, but we all ordered the latter which consisted of several slices each of tender tasty sashimi:

Bahamian Big Eye Tuna (always a favorite)
Asian Yellowtail Sashimi
and Aquanor Natural Farm Raised Salmon Sashimi which was the best salmon sashimi I have ever had anywhere!

A large timbale of RAINBOW TARTARE of spicy Bahamian Big Eye TUNA was topped with Wasabi Tobiko and had a Mango-Yuzu drizzle on the plate for added flavor. There was an 8-piece roll of MANGO & AVOCADO with the Spicy Bahamian Big Eye Tuna as well.

I must note that the ginger was so pale and white, but that it had less punch than usual and was actually better than most I have had in the past.

We asked about the wines and the manager Walter immediately came over and said he recommended a red with the sushi, but he would bring three for us to taste. We tasted the La MISION Sauvignon Blanc from Chile which was quite mild lacking either citrus or grass, the MONKEY BAY Chardonnay from New Zealand which was a bit of a puzzle to me, and decided on Walter's choice the excellent smooth and medium bodied MALBEC 2005 from Fabre Montmayou in Argentina. It was perfect with the sushi!

I can't fail to mention that our server Lydia was superb and constantly checked on us no matter how busy she was or how full the place got; it was literally heaving when we left at 730pm! Dessert was an array of options and they were all excellent, but I think top honors go to the STRAWBERRY CHEESECAKE with Caramel Sauce. I also loved the CINNAMON TACO Chips which reminded me of churros. The CHOCOLATE SOUFFLE is dense and rich with a slightly molten center and really for dark chocoholics, and the APPLE TART is made with RICOTTA in the Italian style. Ciao Bella DATE & WALNUT Ice Cream was an interesting and very delish flavor I had never heard of or even thought of prior to this wonderful meal!

I think I have found a new spot on the Upper West side when the time allows the stroll only 10 blocks north of Lincoln Center!