Minneapolis' Bucheron may be the best in the Upper Midwest (9-12-25)

We are in St. Paul, MN for a wedding this weekend and had one night free for dinner and chose Bucheron located on the south side of Minneapolis, just across the river. It was a brilliant choice indeed. While Bucheron boasts family ownership by Chef Adam Ritter and his wife Jeanie Janas Ritter, they have assembled a friendly, courteous and helpful team which works in sync and was led at our table by the charming Adriana. They just won the James Beard Award for Best New Restaurant 2025, which is no small feat to beat!

The menu is French/MidWestern using local and in the case of seafood, not so local, ingredients to the best of their capabilities. The menu can be a tad confusing so we let Adriana guide us and she did superbly as we decided on four dishes to share and then Will opted for dessert. The wine list is varied (with prices starting in the 60$ range and going up to the thousand plus!) and Adriana guided us to a super dry French white Grenache Gris "Mas Gabinelle" Vieilles Vignes 2022 from Autignac in Langued'Oc/Roussillon that we later learned from Jeanie was imported by a guy who live locally and actually worked at the winery! When we asked about reds by the half-bottle, Adriana's face lit up and she said the Chateau Haut-Segottes Grand Cru from St. Emillion (right near our home in Bordeaux) 2021 was a fab Merlot/Cabernet Franc blend that we loved.

The setting is a tad crowded, but not awful, although the noise levels are quite high. The room was jammed to the gills on our arrival at 740pm as was the bar seating and outdoor area, not a table was unused. There was some background music which was totally unnecessary. The tables are wood, the chairs and banquettes are leather-like and the walls have little decoration save some modern sconces; it is all about the food.

We started with the Kingfish Crudo with watermelon, Fresno chile, basil and rhubarb salt which had a slight kick from the chile but was simply like buttah! It was so refreshing as it had been a hot and muggy day. Next came Venison Tartare with poached egg yolk, spruce tips and rye chips. The rye chips were fun (think bagel chips/tortilla chips cross) and worked superbly, but the tartare itself was tender and spiced just right not to intrude with the meat's flavor.

Summer Beans was a farm treat that tasted like it was so local made with zucchini, tarbais beans, a rich miso bagna cauda and came with delicious bits of charred octopus and small chunks of pork secreto. We loved it all, but the best had to be the Vadovan Curry Pappardelle with rabbit ragout, peas and carrots, Parmesan and Thai basil.

Will loved his dessert of Corn Cake with grilled Peach, Plum, Caramel Corn and Corn Ice Cream, another local farm treat that resembled a granola cobbler with popcorn!

we had a super time with the super staff and the excellent food and left raving to the team how great it was to find this amazing find.

I have to add that an 18% hospitality charge is already INCLUDED in all the prices, just like in Europe and so many other places, eliminating the need for figuring out how to tip!

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Bordeaux's LA TUPINA is terrific traditional food (9-4-25)

 Our last dinner in Bordeaux before returning stateside was with our friend Hugo at his favorite place in town, LA TUPINA. It is an unassuming space with some outdoor seating, and we worried hearing English spoken at first, but as we moved deeper inside this old old house with cute small rooms and very old wooden tables, it was largely locals enjoying a wonderful evening. We arrived at 8pm and the place was virtually full! We saw dishes going by and marveled at the smells and choices and we were thrilled when the exciting and different menus arrived showing the variety of the traditional local dishes going way back. Hugo mentioned that he had not had Sanguette since his mom made it when he was younger and I decided to give it a go. But first, we consulted with our server, Davide, who had a super sense of humor and went on to choose a Chateau Haut Bertineries Sauvignon Blanc (old vines) from Cite de Blaye just to the north.  It was a great wine with lots of acidity and was ideal with the Sanguette which was a thick crepe made with pork blood in the mix and scattered with pieces of duck neck inside the batter as well. WOW, this was a revelation, and I tried to finish it, but knew we had main courses coming. Hugo adored his gorgeous Foie Gras terrine and Will tried another new dish Calamars façon Pibales, which was calamari cooked in the style of "Elvers" or eels so that they were cut up into pieces and seasoned with garlic, espalette pepper and lemon. It was so flavorful and yummy and again ideal with the wine.

We moved on to a bottle of Frank Phelan 2018 red from Saint-Estephe which we had had some while back at a restaurant and this wine is a huge winner, made by the famous Bordeaux wine house of Phelan Segur, it is their second label and still tastes like a great wine for the way lower price. M=Will chose the Epaule d'Agneau & Mogettes which was a huge casserole of lamb shoulder with haricots blancs (mogettes are white string beans) and I realized that we had made a mistake by each ordering a main course. The Ris de Veau en Croute avec Duxelles de Champignons, Jus de veau arrived for Hugo and me, and there was no way I could eat even 1/2 the portion. It was a perfectly crunchy puff pastry filled with sweetbreads, a mushroom stuffing and veal jus that was divine. We couldn't even take the leftovers home as we were leaving at 630am the next morning!

Hugo was ready for dessert and ordered the Fig Tarte Flambee that was a whole production with vanilla ice cream (checkout the video) and we tasted the luscious treat as well. What a wonderful, fun place to dine and with food so very different from the ordinary, it is just that next time we shall share plates for sure, or just perhaps two appetizers!

who wouldn't like LE LOUP in Bordeaux? (9-3-25)

 Our stay here in Bordeaux for the summer is coming to an end so we returned to one of our favorite bistros downtown, LE LOUP, last night for another super meal.

the menu has changed a tad since we were there a month ago, but it tends to be shared plates changing every now and then with major changes each season. Last night there was a new TEMPURA de Piments de Padron, sauce Mayonnaise. we had the corn fritters last time and these Padron peppers battered and fried were just as yummy. I started with a simple Kir Cassis (white wine and cassis) while Will tried the Spritz Bordelais of Lillet & Cremant de Bordeaux which he loved and was very refreshing.

we ordered a bottle of Cabernet Franc (as the Loire put a stamp on us) AOC Canon Fronsac called Le Bouquet de Lariveau from Chateau Lariveau 2020 and it was super.

Since we were with Sam last time we skipped the GNOCCHIS de Pommer de terre, Bisque de Langoustine but were really happy we got to try this. The Chef really know how to make pasta here and he came out when I raved about the gnocchi and the scrumptious rich lobster bisque cream sauce they were in made from a fab fish reduction! (photos on FB). We finished with one of our favorites: Demi-magret de Canard, haricots Verts, Groseille, the half duck breast rare with green beans and currants. 

At home Will had some ice cream and I headed to bed.

Our last night here is tonight and we are headed out with our friend Hugo to say good-bye soon.

Tour's LE TURON is terrific (9-1-25)

 For our last night in the Loire we decided to spend the day in Tours (shopping and sightseeing) and then stay in for dinner before heading back to our troglodyte rock room!

We got LE TURON from our hotel concierge and it was a BIG HIT.

Amuses of focaccia with anchovy and a yummy pea velouté came first and we ordered a bottle of AOC Saint Nicholas de Bourgueil Cabernet Franc "L'Expression" from Domeiane Joel Taluau 2024 which may have been young but was superb and smooth.

A tiny bistro of cozy with close simple wooden tables and very comfy chairs--maybe 30-35 people and it was full by 745pm! The menu is simple as well with some chalkboard wines and specials, but we were immediately drawn to the TARTARE de BOEUF CHAROLAIS which was a main, but we split as a starter. It came with frites with parmesan and a truffle mayo dip. Pickled cauliflower and onion garnished the plate with a fabulous balsamic, shaved parmesan and crunchy shallots. I told them all: "C'est vraiment un des meilleurs tartares du monde!"

Mains were a superb POUPLE & GAMBAS Grille for Sam which he said was the best octopus he ever had. It came with ratatouille, spelt & creme de chorizo. My Ballotine de Pintade was a stuffed breast of guinea fowl(hen) with mousse, Cajun spices, mushroom risotto, and morel sauce with haricots verts. I loved it all, but the portion was huge!

We were very full and dessert did not even become a consideration, but what a great ending to our week in Charentes & the Loire.

Les Hautes Roches Restaurant Gastronomique(outside Tours, Loire) is good/great (8-31-25)

We moved west down the Loire to just outside Tours in the village of Rochecorbon for our last two nights at the Relais et Chateau Les Hautes Roches which actually has rooms built into the famous troglodyte caves of the region which is a fun novelty. We chose their "fine dining "Restaurant Gastronomique" which used to have a Michelin star for many years but now is simply a nice place to dine with not a ton of character. We sat at our table for almost 15 minutes waiting for anyone to come over and it seemed there were only two gents handling the entire room--about 12 tables or so. We managed to order drinks and then waited a tad more but at least things smoothed out as we moved on.

Fraises Basilic is a yummy fruity strawberry concoction of vodka, fresh strawberry jus, lime, and balsamic reduction! Paul turned out to be an excellent sommelier and we said we needed more than a bottle, and he came up with a solution of a half bottle, which is not too common in France! We started with AOP Montlouis-sur-Loire 2023 Les Hauts de Husseau which is an oaked Chenin Blanc that was an amazing white with mineral, oak and dry, simply the best we had all week. Our second 1/2 bottle was a Chateau de Nozet 2021 "De la Doucette" which was a Sauvignon Blanc that didn't taste at all like it. There was a hint of citrus but the wine was superb.

Three amuses arrived: A salmon and citrus in a cone(yummy), an avocado & pea tartelette(ok) and a yummy Parmesan beignet sitting in a spicy tomato sauce.

We both started with Raviole "Terre e Mer" which was Langoustines, Foie Gras and Mushrooms. The ravioli were filled with lobster and the sauce was a chicken and foie grs emulsion. OMG!! Fabulous idea. Our wine rocked with this.

Will ordered the Poisson de la Loire, which was whitefish (pike) and it had all kinds of yummy zucchini creations around with parmesan, but he daid the fried artichokes were greasy! My Veal loin came with a black sesame lacquer, cauliflower, jus Corse (Corsican sauce) with coffee. This was superb cut of meat and a delicious creation that melted in my mouth.

Needless to say I had cheese for dessert and chose three fabulous local ripe ones: Saint Maure de Touraine-which was a tad over aged goat, Selles sur Cher-gooey goat which is my fave in the Loire and Puligny St Pierre a very aged and stinky choice! It would have been nice if they offered me some fresh bread!

Will had Douceur Coco-Coconut mousse, sorbet passion fruit compote and pineapple.  Of course, cookies came and chocolate and we fell into bed!

AMOUR BLANC will blow your taste buds in Blois (Loire) (8-30-25)

 The next evening, we were happy to have planned an outing to see the Son-et-lumiere show at Chateau de Blois, so we chose a wonderful spot in Blois to dine right on the quai facing the chateau and old town! AMOUR BLANC is the second restaurant of Michelin-starred chef Christophe Hay, whose main restaurant was just next door. He had placed Chef Alexi Venuat in charge here and the team is virtually flawless. We sat down and explained we really wanted to enjoy dinner but had only 2-1/2 hours as we had to leave for the show at 945pm. NO PROBLEM!

Will ordered his requisite glass of Anjou La Fuye rose from Domaines des Myositits which was not cold enough, so they promptly took it off for quick chill. I started with the Touraine-Azay-le-Rideau "Josette" from Domaine de Cocagne which had super mineral taste of the local region. Our red for the rest was a bottle of Domaine Saumur 2023 Guibertau an intense black cherry flavored Cabernet Franc that was simply magnificent.

Amuses arrived in the form of a corn mousse with a crunchy top and corn shoots that was divine, a less exciting shrimp and cumin and a delicious wild boar rillettes with jam.

The gorgeous second floor setting with floor to ceiling windows overlooking the Loire and the chateau is spotless and very white with outdoor seating as well. Marble tables with little mats at each place and Riedel crystal made it fell quite classy like a Michelin star spot, but without the same prices. The service was excellent with panache and flair.

We both started with Tomates de Collection en Declination, Verveine, Cassis which were heirloom tomatoes in a magnificent vinaigrette with "confit" style breadcrumbs and a black current sorbet and currants that was to die for. The bread came with shiso butter as well as rapeseed oil.

After a nice break they brought my Pigonneau de Racan, cerises bigarreaux, fenouil, sauce infusee aux baie de geneievre which was a true work of art (FB photo) that I did not want to touch. The local pigeon from up the river was cut into several breast pieces and legs and set up in a geometric pattern  on the plate with sauteed baby fennel (that was so mild I loved it), a fennel confit (that was too strong for me), local cherries and a juniper berry sauce; a small fried ball of pigeon confit sat in the corner. Every bite was winning.

Will's Bar de Ligne, Celerissotto, truffe d'ete was a gorgeous sea bass filet with a celery risotto that Will said was so rich it overpowered the fish, but was delish nonetheless.

We could not resist dessert, and I had the Prune et Mirabelle, Shiso Brioche toastee, creme legere which was a plum and prune delight. Will went for the Framboises du Mont-pres-Chambord with Hazelnut Biscuit and Tonka Bean cream and Raspberry Sorbet which was also a huge winner.

We left for our show very full, but knowing if we ever get back to Blois, we have to try Chef Hay's number one spot!

MEMOIRE @ Chateau La Borde en Sologne (Loire) is a memory mostly forgotten (8/29/25)

I am a tad behind as we spent the entire week in the Loire and have to hurry up and pack to close up the home as we return to the USA tomorrow very early..UGH!

Our first night in the Loire Valley we dined at our chateau/hotel in a beautiful, gilded room that definitely oozed 16th-17th century. The service was decent and some of the food superb, but mediocre for the most part. I started with a Kir Vouvray as one does in the Loire using the sparkling local Vouvray with peach liqueur here. Our wine was a superb white from Domaine Pascal Jolivet in the Loire "Les Caillotes" Sancerre with lots of fruit and a tad of minerality.

It was ideal with the OEUF Starter (all fotos on FB) made with scrambled egg/candied yolk, a rich cream with sturgeon pieces in it and a brioche to accompany. we splurged and got the local caviar on our Brioche for an extra 13 Euros and it was a star. Made by a producer nearby in Sologne and called La grand Cerneant , it was excellent caviar and we are thrilled we can order it on line here to deliver to Bordeaux the next day!!

The Saint-Pierre main course (also called John Dory) was steamed and very boring and served with delicious petit legumes de saison from their garden and on the side was a fish emulsion and confit in a bowl somewhat akin to a bisque. We told them when we ordered to give us a good break of 20 mins between courses, but it came in 5! 

For dessert Will's Le Chocolat was nice made with 64% Guayaquil chocolate in layers and textures and hazelnut cream. My cheeses were an underwhelming Neufchatel (cow), a thrilling Tomme aux Noix, a yummy gooey Sainte-Nectaire and a huge portion of Bleu d'Auvergne!

It was not bad, and the caviar rocked, just not memorable.

La Rochefoucauld-en-Angouleme's AU MOULIN DU CHATEAU is a beef bistro for all (8-28-25)

We decided to forego the hotel's one restaurant a second night and headed over to visit the adorable village of La Rochefoucauld about 20 mins. away and see the glorious chateau and managed to shop as well for the awesome local Charentes shoes/slippers. We spotted Au Moulin du Chateau at the bottom of the chateau and they were so welcoming and the Limoussin beef displayed looked fabulous as well that we could not resist the invite.

The place was quiet when we sat down at 730pm, but completely jammed when we left and many locals had joined the early dining tourists!

Will started with a glass of rose Domaine Le Pive Gris from Sable de Camargue (just outside of Montpelier where the famous rice comes from!) and then we shared a wonderful bottle of Cabernet Franc from the Loire 2023 Domaine Eric Bureau AOC Saint Nicholas de Bourgueil which we shall look for now that we are in the Loire! It was nice and medium bodied with a tad of earthiness but tons of fruit almost screaming Pinot Noir.

Our server said it would be great with our steak/frites, but Will started with a huge Gaufre sale(savory waffle), Creme Fouettee (really light cream cheese all whipped up), saumon fume(smoked salmon), crevettes (small shrimp) and avocat (avocado) while I loved my simple Salade de Chevre Chaud which was a salad with Grilled Pancetta(bacon) and two giant grilled toasts with large circles of fabulous warmed local goat cheese.

The steaks were the famous Entrecote de Boeuf Limoussin, the local cows well-known for their quality beef grilled in an open oven just below us as we sat on the upper floor/mezzanine. The steaks had some fatty parts and gristle, but the meat was generally tasty and the Sauce au Poivre(pepper sauce for 1 euro extra) was divine. The frites could have won an award as they were so crispy and seasoned with salt and pepper perfectly.

We were full and headed back to our hotel only to have a fab glass of Armagnac Blanc before bed.

Dyades at Domaine des Etangs (Charentes region of northern Nouvelle Aquitaine) deserves a touch more on service, but the food is fab (8/27/2025)

 Our first night on our journey north to the Loire was halfway at Domaine des Etangs, and Auberge Resort located on a 1000-acre farm and art collection in a 14th century chateau with a Michelin star restaurant called Les Dyades (it had 2 stars in 2024!). The property is magnificent, but the attention to the staff and detail in the restaurant is likely why they lost one star. As this is a resort with just ONE dining spot, there is really no choice unless you have a car to drive somewhere (which is what we plan to do this evening), so many folks do not seem to care to dress for the occasion; short, polo shirts and such were de rigeur. Chef Matthieu Pasgrimaud has created a beautiful menu, but I think he is not on the scene, and the staff seem to mimic the dress of the clientele with basically sneakers, slacks and untidy shirts! Once we got past that and the fact that we had to wave our hands a lot to get attention to order wine or food, it was fine.

There is bottled water made in house offered sparkling and still at no charge, beautiful crusty bread with soft butter and oddly enough, no amuse or attempt to prepare or palates for what was to come. we marveled at how different this was from our beautifully appointed and superb L'Oiseau Bleu around the corner back in Bordeaux.

Wills started with a glass of Chateau Saint Maur Cotes de Provence Rose, and I adored the Sancerre from Paul Cherreu in the nearby Loire where we head tomorrow. Our red wine was a fabulous locale Charentes 2016 Piques Russe "Le temps vole" (stolen time) made from merlot & Cabernet Sauvignon that was dreamy and full of fruit forward flavors, that we thought it was begging to be a Pinot Noir!

My Tartellete de chair de torteau, legumes croquant du Domaine, nuage de Noilly Pratt was a delicious tarte with local crab and topped with a vermouth foam that was all so light, I wanted a tad more. Will had a French version of Vitello Tonnato with a Sauce Grenobloise and a Velour de thon blanc(creamy white tuna sauce), which was indeed delicious but also very rich and filling.

We both chose the Canard a la ferme de L'Arbre, courgette farcis des cuisses, jus au Bourbon which was a perfectly cooked rare to medium-rae duck breast from a local farm in the town of L'Arbre just down the road. Accompanying was a confir leg stuffed in zucchini.

For dessert the cheese platter offered up Chèvre aux herbes from a local farm, Kalbach from Switzerland a semi-hard and unexciting cheese, Comte aged 18 months which was fab and the divine Vache a la Truffe a triple cream cow with black truffles. Raisins, pistachios, griottes( sour cherry) jam and small salted bread sticks accompanied.

Will's Soufle a l'abricot, glace praline noisette was a divine warm apricot souffle with hazelnut praline ice cream on the side. We left full and happy, but really decided to try someplace else locally tonight.

Bordeaux's ZEPHIRINE , a zenithal experience (8-21-25)

 Last night we met some friends from Sam's school days at WIS and headed over to ZEPHIRINE, where we have been several times and always adored the food. While one has a choice of ordering just 3 choices (entree, main, dessert for 69 Euros), we had to try the get everything choice for 89 Euros, which includes everything on the tiny blackboard. This means the table shares 3 starters, 3 mains and 3 desserts. It sounds like a lot, and the first time we did it, it was just right. Last night it seemed like a lot more and we ended up taking home virtually all of the main meat course for another night (almost a whole meal at home).

We were there for over 3-1/2 hours and it was another spectacular dining experience. Our server was the adorable Milot, who is student and was our server before, but we were sad to hear this was his last night at Zephrine after 2 years! Bertrand and (I think her name is) Marie are in charge and also help the servers in the small space, while Chef Romain Corbiere always welcomes us along with the whole kitchen team as we pass by the open kitchen to the dining area. It was such a beautiful night, we sat on the small terrace which is not windy at all as it is surrounded by four walls. My only issue was the hard wiry chairs are not too comfortable and literally leave an impression on you as they are intertwined metal seats!! A small pillow would have been welcome. The wine list here, as in so many places, is really superb offering rare wines at super prices. We chose a superb Rhone blend (Roussane/Marsanne) Crozes Hermitage Blanc "Cour de Recre" from Francois Villard that was so ideal with so many of the dishes, we ended up having a second bottle.

The first plates arrived with the signature Terrine de campagne (pate of pork & poultry), salade d'herbes fraiches, Pickles and the fabulous bread and butter (photos on FB) which is in a silver holder that is squeezed through a sieve on the top to make the butter softer and more spreadable!  Next came two starters: An amazing Taboule aux betteraves, laitue et Feta (hand-crafted semolina tabouleh with beets, feta and lettuce-also a hint of mint and crunchy onions), but the Salade de tomate et haricot vert, pain vinaigrette, jambon was a revelation. Five kinds of local heirloom tomatoes (including one called pineapple tomato) were mixed with French green beans in a vinaigrette made from vinegar-soaked bread that had been decomposed. On the side were thin toasted bread topped with the amazing local jambon from Bayonne just an hour away. We all were in heaven as we ordered that second bottle of white.

The mains came slowly and one by one starting with Riz de Camargue aux epinards, legumes du moment mijote aux jus de tomate et marjolaine, this rice dish is unique from the south of France(Rhone) and is akin to Risotto in that the rice is thick and creates a thick and delicious sauce here cooked with tomato and marjoram. 

Maigre de ligne dore a la plancha sauce facon "soubise" acidulee au sumac was next, a gorgeous grilled local line-caught sea bass in a caramelized onion sauce with BBQ eggplant, zucchini and red onion. It was so simple and delicious, and the sauce was indeed amazing. We switched to red wine at this point and I chose a 2017 Vaqueyras from Domaine la Pigeade made of Syrah & Grenache, another superb Rhone blend indeed that we all adored. Vaqueyras can be very tannic and tight and often needs much time to mature. The 8-year old wine was just coming into maturation, so I hope this vintage is on the menu next time we go to try again!

The meat main dish was Faut filet de veau roti, jus aux olives and while the term "faux" or fake is used here, this small roasted veal tastes as good as any superb loin cut of meat. The once again simple (seeming) yet flavorful olive sauce was not overpowering and it came with fennel artichoke, Jerusalem artichokes, artichoke chips & parmesan chips.

The red wine was the perfect foil to this fabulous meat.

As I said Will & I ended up packing 90% of ours to go and will finish it this weekend! Needless to say, we all knew the cheese course option was not happening. The first dessert is the signature Zephirin(the namesake for the restaurant and simply round doughnut-like fried dough balls), served on every menu, and last night it was Zephirin a la mirabelle, sorbet tagete. Mirabelles are the seasonal tiny yellow plums here in France which are at peak now and full of flavor and tagete, Milot and Bertrand explained, was the small bush growing in the courtyard on the wall near us. It is a marigold variety, but a bush, and apparently each person tastes different things when it is eaten! My taste was definitely passionfruit and superb.

The Amandine Rhubarbe-Fraises was a gorgeous almond cookie/cake pastry topped with marinated rhubarb and strawberries and topped with almond slices that was a favorite indeed for us all. The Gourmande de vanille-chocolat was simply a homemade vanilla cream with Madagascar chocolate gelato/ice cream on top with chocolate and mascarpone. What's nor to like?

Zephrine is another favorite spot for us, but next time perhaps we will do just the three course choices! What we love about Bordeaux as well is the variety of French cuisines and styles all using such local and farm-to-table ingredients and, of course, the super friendly welcomes and service we get in so many wonderful places here.

We are off on a short week-long trip next week to the north of Aquitaine and the Loire, so stay tuned for many gourmet meals there!

Bonne weekend!

Bordeaux's Le CHIEN de PAVLOV is a pleasure (8-19-25)

We met some friends Tuesday evening for dinner in old town at Le CHIEN DE PAVLOV (yes, Pavlov's Dog!) where Will had dined before and loved it. It was indeed a hit despite the small menu and limited choices. Everything we had was simply delicious and the service from just one server was pretty good as well. There were only 3 occupied tables as this is low season here with so many people on August vacation and I am guessing the tourists do not know this fab spot.

The tables are high tops with comfy high chairs, so not great for the handicapped, yet we were quite comfortable, and my back did not seem to be bothered at all. There are two chalkboards: one with the three entrees, three main plats and three dessert choices and another with the wine choices: three white, two red and a sparkling. The 2022 Orion Petit Chablis was full of stone fruit flavors which was great, and we loved it so much we could not decide between another bottle or switching to red. When we asked for the second bottle, we were told that the one we drank was the last, so we went for the better red on the chalkboard, which we were promptly told was sold out! O Mon Dieu! Never fear, as our server returned with a bottle of Chateau Mangot 2019 Saint Emilion Grand Cru which he offered at the same ,price of 38Euros (the wine sells online for around 30!), which was a true steal. It was young but opened up well and really showed off its terroir and earthy characteristics.

Will started with Vitello Tonnato, Capres, Parmesan which was a superb preparation of the thin veal with tuna sauce, capers and shaved parmesan. I opted for the fabulous Crudo de Daurade, Leche de Tigre, Pickles (all photos on FB) which was a large plate with the Dorado sliced on one side and the sauce spread over the other side of the plate and was superbly flavored but not super spicy, perhaps a tad over the usual French minimal levels! I loved it all!

Marbre de Cabillaud, Verveine, Hummous, Petits Pois, Peche was a delicious filet of local cod with verbena sauce with a hint of peach and fresh local peas, and hummus on the side while the Agneau Confit, Ktipiti, Coriandre was an excellent confit served in a round cylinder covered with a rich demi-glace sauce and large servings of ktipiti or Tirosalata, a Greek dip made from Feta and Red peppers that was delicious and called for bread to dip in. Did I mention the amazing crusty French bread loaf that came warm and yummy to table multiple times as we could not resist it!? 

There was no room for dessert, but our waiter immediately returned with small complimentary shot glasses of a concoction of gin, creme de whiskey, what he called pucher (sp?) and lemon zest which we all loved. Will had a second when the guy returned and asked if we wanted another! What a lovely evening with our friends and a new fabulous find for me here in Bordeaux, which there are luckily too many to ever discover them all!

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Bordeaux's Steak in Resto or Meat'in steak--call it what you want but it sucks! (8-17-25)

 We had our minds set on dining out Sunday here in our complex at the new Greek place Kalimera, which noted they were open on Sunday for dinner on the door. We passed by Saturday when they were open to double check, but alas, did not enquire and as it was a Sunday on a holiday weekend, they chose to close. Disappointed we walked next door to what outside has a sign calling it "Steal in Resto." It was pretty empty but very nicely appointed with comfy leather chairs and fairly quiet except for the noise from the large screen TV covering half of one wall! 

We scanned the UPC code to view the menu and got excited as it was not just steaks and not French, instead it was Turkish with pide and many kebabs. Will & I love the dried Turkish beef called Pastirma, or as we know it pastrami and they had a pide (or flatbread) with it! Iskender with lamb kebab, yogurt and tomato sauce was another thing we like. I saw a drink list with all virgin mocktails and then we noticed that each table with folks at it had a hookah they were sharing. We had passed the "hookah bar" at the entrance and there was a couple dozen with a "hookah bar tender" behind, but we didn't think much of it. I enquired about a wine list to find out that they served no alcohol. A dry restaurant in France--in Bordeaux! Oh no-MON DIEU!

We proceeded to ask if we could do take-out and then grabbed our dishes when they were ready, headed the one block back to our place and opened a bottle of red wine and sat down to eat. The pide was crispy edged and yummy, but the pastirma was tasteless and only a couple of pieces on the flatbread. We heated up the Iskender which was quite good although, we thought it odd that it was filled with pieces of tomato-sauce-soaked chunky bread, which I do not recall seeing before. Googling the dish, I remember it is served over pita, which was missing, perhaps they had no pita.

Whatever the case and despite the friendly and nice service with a smile, we felt that Steak in Resto or Meat'in Steak, whatever it is called is not worth a return visit. Sadly that makes two out of three places Will has visited in our complex and two out of two for me that failed the test!

Kalimera--praying you are worthy when we do finally get there!

Bordeaux's WASABI CAFE still has super sushi (8-12-25)

 On Tuesday we took a quick 2 min bus ride up the quai to Place Stalingrad where the tiny WASABI CAFE sits and boasts some really super sushi. It is our friend Kim's favorite place to eat and after trying the new sushi place in our complex with her back in March, we realized that Wasabi is so superior! Just as an aside, the place in our complex runs totally on iPad orders and u can't really see how they make it or what you get. It is a set price for all you can eat--ALTHOUGH if you have leftovers, they charge you, even if you do not take it away!! We felt this was nuts. Many young people love it, and we all thought their sushi was bland and boring. 

At Wasabi Cafe they have indoor and outdoor seating (not a sole was outside in the 100+ heat!) and a la carte or set menus. We decided to get the Menu Duo I which includes steamed edamame, 2 bowls of miso soup(we ordered one extra), 2 of their amazing cabbage salads (we ordered one extra) that has a wasabi vinaigrette that is loaded with flavor, PLUS a platter with 6 sushi, 6 sashimi, 6 maki and 6 California rolls. The piece de la resistance of the platter is the SPICY CRUNCH Roll which is surimi, avocado, cucumber all smothered with tiny fried onions in a spicy sauce! This was so good we ordered an extra which filled us to the brim! Food total cost 56Euros($65) + drinks.

FYI the place in our building has a flat fee of 28Euros each if I recall! Much better deal, much better food.

Tonight, we are trying the Greek place that opened up in our complex! Wish us luck!

Once again L'OISEAU BLEU in Bordeaux is beyond bravos! (8-9-25)

We had planned a full day walking tour with our friend/guide Bruno of SoBordeaux and knew we would be exhausted, but this was our guest Janice's last night in Bordeaux (before boarding a river cruise) and Samuel would be leaving two days later, so we booked one of our favorite spots in Bordeaux ages ahead as they are so small and full up so fast. L'OISEAU BLEU is just over a mile away from us on the right bank here and deserves way more than its one Michelin star as it is truly a special place. The service is impeccable and Saturday night we had Caroline as our server and Amber again as our sommelier. We were sad to learn that Amber would be moving on in the fall but told her to keep in touch as she knows wine so well!

The setting is white with hints of ocean blue and other colors very reminiscent of a Matisse work (check out the FB photos) and so calm and cool, especially in the heat wave we have had! House water here is filtered and offered in sparkling or still! Sam is a huge fan now of French cider and Amber suggested a bottle of Eric Bordelet Poiree Cidre(one of the most famous Normandy pear ciders) made from 17 types of pears! He loved it as we did our very local Domaine de Puy Redon 2016 Chardonnay which is not a common Bordeaux grape and was from only 100 miles east of us!

One of the main reasons we wanted to go here was that they offer an amazing tasting menu of 4 or 6 courses priced at 100 and 130 Euros respectively which is a steal at today's exchange ($117 & $152). we chose the six and the veggie option was only 4 for Sam. They also have wine pairings, but again we prefer to order two bottles and save a bundle. Our red that Amber said was amazing and indeed it was, was the 2021 Beaune 1er Cru from Domaine Phillippe Bouzereau, a magnificent full-bodied Burgundy Pinot Noir that opened up magnificently after Amber decanted it!

There were cocktails of course and Janice had the requisite champagne while I tried to Dolce Vita of Italicus, Champagne and sparkling water while Will tried the Acapulco made with Limoncello, Green citron and thyme verjus.

There are always amuses and we had two sets of them. First came a vegetable tartelette with tarragon cream and zucchini balls, a marinated Sea Bream with watermelon (Sam got something else) and a Cauliflower tartelette, ours having a tiny lardon on top. 

The second amuse was an unbelievably tender Cuttlefish two-ways: marinated and paired with a truly subtle cuttlefish cream topped with mirabelle (those amazing tiny French plums) and radish, while Sam got Candied Apricot with cream and black garlic. This was served with oregano & basil focaccia and a smoked fir tree butter!

Course I was a Smoked Tomatoes with a Vanilla Tomato Sorbet, Oil and Tomato Jus that was about one of the most refreshing tomato dishes ever made from superb heirloom tomatoes. While this might be a vegetarian's delight, this was one dish we all agreed was stupendous.

Course II was Langouste (lobster) with Lobster & black garlic sauce paired with Roasted Eggplant and candied apricot! The sauce had a pesto feel and was extremely mild and unique. I wish we knew that Janice did not eat lobster as she pawned hers off to us making me feel a tad sad! A lotus shaped fried bread topped with lobster accompanied the dish.

Course III was a Roasted Sardine with Rocket (Arugula) & Spinach cream, Peppered Hollandaise and roasted Padron pepper. This dish totally surprised me as it was spicy and so not French! Mackerel is common here and of course, it is fishy, but the hollandaise was not very rich and a tad spicy which was the perfect foil to the fish. Of course, the Padron was quite spicy, too! Sam got a gorgeous plate of Carrots with Citrus Jelly.

Our main course IV was Pigeon Leg Confit with foie gras stuffing as well as gorgeous plump breast roasted and served with a very mild caramelized fennel and sweet onion cream that I adored. Sam got caramelized fennel and the same cream sauce that he loved.

Cheese was next (a main reason we chose the 6 course option) and it was a beautiful tray(see FB photos) we each chose from. I wnet with Corse du Maquis, a light firm cheese; Chevre et brebis (goat and sheep mix) persille (parslied) that was divine; Marotte made from sheep and looking like Tete de Moines (which is shaved off in this coils); and Pont L'Eveque an always fab French choice. They were paired with Rhubarb puree.  My notes indicate we ordered a glass of Graeme & Julie Bott 2022 Condrieu, but I cannot recall doing that or where we drink it! Of course, we are huge Condrieu (very rare and specific Rhone Viognier) fans and drink it whenever we can, if the price is right!

Dessert course VI was Roasted Peach with Brunoise of Peach, Shiso pesto and Peach Sorbet, a dehydrated green shiso leaf on top all in a peach & oil vinaigrette. This dish was a mirror of the opening tomato dish and treated the fruit like it was a goddess. We all oohed and ahhed and gobbled it up.

Of course, petit fours arrived but this was not a candy to take away, it was a delicious scoop of Cardamom & Pepper Ice Cream that was like a fluffy mousse all topped with cacao crude. Again, not a dribble left in anyone's bowls.

We loved it all (save for Janice & the lobster!) and can't wait to return and maybe meet the chef team of Sophie et Frederic as well!

Toujours l'amour chez LE LOUP a Bordeaux (8-5-25)

As Samuel arrived on Monday, we wanted him to have a little rest but then take him to one of our fave spots in Bordeaux, LE LOUP, where we knew they had some veggie options. As always, it was a great choice. We arrived and Ludovic, the manager, was so happy to see us again and now have our son in tow. We ordered our regular Thyme Citron which is so refreshing in the heat with Vodka, Schweppes and Thyme.

As we ordered lighter dishes we chose a bottle of 2021 Sauvignon Gris "L'Etiquette Grise" from Chateau Carsin in Bordeaux (the chateau that Le Loup gets many of its wines from) that was a little on the mineral side, but so refreshing. It was great with the Gaspacho (yes, spelled with an "s" in France) de Fraises, Sorbet Rhubarbe which was somewhere between sweet (strawberries) and savory (rhubarb)and even better with the Tempura de Mais, a perfectly battered and deep fried bundle of corn with a seasoned Mayonnaise sauce.

Carpaccio de Betterave, Sorbet Sumac and Mascarpone was an gorgeous salad of thinly sliced purple beets with a yummy chilled and savory sumac sorbet scoop and dapple of mascarpone. Raviolis d'Artichauts, Consomme de Tomates was a brilliant dish as the pasta here is always divine. The creamy divine artichoke filling was amazing and the warm light tomato "broth" they sat in was delish. I think if Sam were not so tired, he would have opted for an extra portion. Will & I shared the Demi-Magret de Canard, Haricots verts, Groseilles, which was a perfectly seared rare 1/2 duck breast with all cut up green beans mixed with currants that I adored.

Dessert was Creme Coco frais, Sorbet Kalamansi, meringue and was light, but I still am not the biggest hard meringue fan. Brownie Chocolat Blanc, Glace Cacahouette, Coulis Fruits Rouges was a super white brownie with peanut ice cream that rocked and red fruit coulis that we all gobbled up.

Once again, Le Loup comes through!

last night in London: ANGLOTHAI tasting is terrific (7/31/2025)

 ANGLOTHAI is located a block away from Marble Arch on a small street loaded with dining options. I had read a review several months ago and it really sounded spicy, surprising and something different as you don't find many Asian/Thai restaurants with tasting menus.

As we alighted from the Peninsula's chauffeur driven and leather enveloped Bentley (it is complimentary within 2 miles of the hotel), we were greeting with grins and cheers by Ruby at the door, who never seemed to be upset (but how could anything here upset anyone?). Seated at a table in wooden chairs that could have used a cushion, I worried about my rearend for the long meal! The only other thing that bothered us was the occasional changing of the music to thumping loud "disco" style that seemed so inappropriate for dining.

The 125pound price (about $170) can be paired with wines/drinks for another 95 pounds, but we conversed with our server Eleni and she sent the sommelier, Nicole, over who was thrilled to recommend a white and red wine that came to much less than the pairing and gave us way more wine. A super minerally Cataratto "Vibrazioli" 2024 from Cantine amato in Sicily was so refreshing and the Chinon "Resillience" Cabernet Franc "La Niverdiere" from Martine Bude in the Lire was light, but earthy and had a hint of chalk. The name resilience, Nicole explained, is that Mme. Bude, the winemaker, had survived a divorce and was still running the winery! I should not that there is a 1 pound charge per person for all the house filtered water as well as a discretionary 15% cover charge added, which we were happy to pay!

I started with a Seabuckthorn Margarita made with Ojo de Tigre Mezcal, Chinotto Nero & verjus and loved it as Will did his Pear Martini of Capreolus pear Eau-de-vie, Sapling Vodka, Sapling Gin and dry vermouth. 

A really flavorful amuse of Chilled Cucumber broth arrived that had a spicy lemongrass aftertaste (it is not on the photos on FB!). The first course was a Compressed Kohlrabi, Candied Beetroot and Duchess Rapeseed which was also really an amuse bite but full of flavor, although not spicy. I should note that the crystal is very nice Lehmann and the homemade earthenware plates and bowls were all different and quite beautiful.

Second was a spicier Line Caught cured Mackerel with Rhubarb, Horseradish + Citrus, with chile Tartlet. We could not help comparing this to the mackerel at frog 3 nights earlier and these two dishes were both so brilliant but so different. Here the mackerel was less intense due to the chile and we loved every little bite.

The spiciest so far was the third course (also really an amuse) of Fosse Meadows Chicken, Coconut Golae & Ajut Pickle(mooli) which was grilled and topped with micro-sorrel.

Things got intense with course #4 of Brixham Crab, Exmoor Caviar & Coconut Ash Cracker. The crab is under the caviar and can be seen in the second photo with a mayo aioli that was divine. This was a superb use of both main ingredients and full of flavor with the right amount of spice. the cracker is made of brown crab as well.

I love tongue and Beef Tongue with Jungle Curry & brioche was a real treat even if the tongue was just a tad chewy. The coconut in the curry was just right to balance the spice and the brioche was deep fried with a chili butter glaze! We had switched to the Cab franc and were loving everything but we needed a long rest and Eleni made sure we had almost 30 minutes; kudos to the kitchen.

Course #6 was British Octopus, Chili Jam & Courgette (no photo) and the octopus was really a grilled confit and also had pork fat with octopus emulsion with coconut cream sauce and tarragon oil. It was a lot to take in indeed. The "main" meat #7 was Barrett Farm Lamb, Car y Mor Cockles & Herbal Curry, Hodmedod's Wholegrain Spam(yup--SPAM!) & Laab Spice. The zucchini was pickled with a quenelle of red chili, gooseberry & lemongrass. This lamb rocked, but alas I could only manage a couple of bites to taste each fabulous element. 

Dessert arrived and first came the Cherry, Palm Sugar Biscuit ad Toasted Chili on one plate and Strawberry Grachai & Coconut Flan in the other. The balance was super as the first was spicy and the other cooling. As if this was not enough, the last course#10) arrived called Kanom Lek, a coconut pancake with custard which was explained as a typical Asian street food(no photo) and last came a tiny Raspberry jelly with tamarind gel, long peppercorn and sugared raspberry atop.

Will finished off with a glass of Saumur "La Tournelle" dessert wine, which I had a teeny sip of. It was a yummy time to go home and pack for the flight to Bordeaux tomorrow!!  I think the dinner lasted about 4 hours, but I was so full and tired I cannot recall, but boy was it a tasty and different dining experience.

London's Cafe Deco is cute and delightful (7/30/25)

 Our third night in London we headed over to a bistro to meet a friend near The British Museum called Cafe Deco which was really small, intimate and super. There were some tables outside, a small counter with seats inside and maybe a dozen or so tables. The menu changes daily here and offers up some fun British bistro food that leans a little to French.

We had some fun drinks and then a bottle of Gutturnio "Il vei" 2021 Barbera/Bonardo blend from Emilia-Romagna in Italy that was surprisingly yummy as this region does not export much wine (at least virtually none to the USA!).

Small plates are the rule here, so we started with their Egg Mayonnaise topped with anchovies which sadly was way over-mayonnaised. The Cheesy Puffs were very fun and light. Gazpacho was a treat (although not really for sharing) and I was crazy for the Tuna Stuffed Spicy Pickled Peppers with Coco Beans and Marjoram that really packed a spicy punch. The beans were a perfect foil to the spice. 

"Mains" were Spring Onion & Cheddar Quiche with green salad, Fish Stew with Fennel, Croutons and Rouille (think bouillabaisse) and a wonderful Braised Rabbit Leg with Tomato, Tarragon & Cream.

The cheese was okay, but the Apricot & Cherry Cobbler with Ice Cream was delish and our server brought out a complimentary plate of the Ricotta Fritters with Summer Berry Compote that were really wonderful!

This is a real find, but do reserve as the place was full by 730pm! 

Charlie's @Brown's Hotel by Chef Adam Byatt will bring you back (7-29-25)

 Our second evening in London started with cocktails at the Ritz Bar with our friend Umberto who has taken over as Sales manager there recently and is truly a classy host in a great hotel! We headed around the corner to Brown's Hotel (a Rocco Forte Hotel) for a quick site visit with the Managing Director and another round of cocktails with the sales team. We had booked Charlie's, a long-time English favorite with Chef Adam Byatt at the helm and expected a top notch but very English-style meal; boy, were we wrong. 

Once again, the service from Artur & Ben was impeccable and when I was thrilled to see an Yves Cuilleron Viognier on the wine list, I immediately told Ben we had to have it (I met the winemaker some 25 years ago before he subsequently passed away). Ben insisted on bringing us the more expensive and top quality Condrieu (Viognier designation) 2023 "Les Vignes a Cote-La Petite Cote" which was a divine creamy and unctuous viognier that I consider one of the best in the world. 

An amuse of radish on taramasalata arrived with focaccia bread and while I loved the radish/fish roe paste combo, it was even better on the warm focaccia as the stern B&W photo of the Queen overlooked us (FB photos).  we decided to try the shared plate of Crab & Apple Tartlets as well as the Baked Jersey Royal A (potatoes) with Anchovy & Parmesan that were simply decadent.

Will & I shared a superb and refreshing Vesuvio Tomato & White Peach Salad that Ben recommended and it came with Basil & Tomato Tea (dressing) that made this dish a real treat. The heirloom tomatoes came from the slopes of Vesuvius and the peaches were ripe and sweet and delish.

While Will loved his Steamed Cornish Turbot with warm tartare sauce and fresh English peas, I chose the small starter portion of Hand Cut Strozzapreti with Girolle mushrooms, saffron, butter and a tad of parmesan on top which was as pure as pasta gets.

The decor is very cozy, very comfy and very spaced with a relaxed English feel and light colors as the hotel has moved from clubby heavy leather to a much lighter feel.

We had a great time but were way to full for any more after the huge meal the night before and went into shock when Ben told us the meal was taken care of by our hosts, who had spent the evening waiting for us to emerge from Charlie's to be sure we had a great time. WOW! Thank you all!

London's FROG by Adam Handling always hails high on our list (7-28-25)

I am sorry I am a tad behind as we have been travelling in the UK and entertaining folks here at our home in Bordeaux. Things have quieted down so hopefully you will enjoy the numerous right ups to follow at your leisure.

We have been to FROG several times now around the corner from Covent Garden just off the Strand and still come out with raves all the time. The intimate 10-12 table setting with the open kitchen and superb staff make this Michelin-starred dining destination even better. The multi-course menu is a set price (199 pounds=US$270) and will amaze you at every bite, but this time we opted to skip the paired wines and go for a bottle each of white and red. Our sommelier Sylvia (as our server Paolo) hailed from Italy and really knew her wines well. I noticed a Viognier/Roussane blend 2023 "Etincelle" blanc 2023 from Pierre et Jerome Coursodon that was creamy yet minerally and she said it would be great with the many fish/seafood courses we had coming. She led us to a fabulous Italian Merlot from Stocco 2019 made of Vecchie viti (old vines) from the Venezia Giulia region that was super and full bodied, despite being from the north., where red wines can be much lighter. House filtered water saves money and the enviroment and tasted as good as any bottled water.

The first course was entitled "Earth" and it seemed that entire Hobbit House arrived on the table with a log and mushrooms and more. There were two mushroom tartelettes perched on it with Lovage Emulsion and a carpaccio of mushrooms and mushroom powder. A mushroom tea with white herbs was poured tableside to accompany.

Course 2 was a set of three amuses (all the photos are on FB):

-Tuna tartare with beef fat emulsion, trout roe, lime, English wasabi and sake all topped with crispy fried wild leeks

-Mackerel sat on seaweed and citrus gel with fresh flowers and sorrel on a cracker that looked like a mackerel and was made of mackerel bones!!

Course three (the above ll came together)--A cheese & garlic donut (it seems that Chef Adam is obsessed by donuts) was made with Pocher cheddar that was quite rich indeed.

#4 was then Chicken Sandwich which came with an explanation about Sunday dinner leftover chicken on Monday. It was delish but a tad greasy and I took only one bite as I had been told to avoid greasy foods. Next to this was served course #5: a sourdough loaf made of Earl Gray & IPA beer on one plate and then a triple section plate with crispy chicken skin butter, chicken liver parfait coated in beetroot and rich chicken jus poured tableside. The idea was to take the bread, butter and liver all in one bite after dipping it the juts (French dip style). It was tons of fun and messy, and I worried about the magnificent soft white "ultrasuede" tablecloths and then was told they are made of vegan leather and thus can wipe clean in seconds....all my jus drops were gone.

Course #6 was Orkney Island hand-dived scallop that were blanched and coiled with butternut squash over a tomato-gelatin base with lemongrass/shiso(perilla) vinaigrette and then garnished with tiny ginger, pear and butternut squash balls. The scallops were divine and my only comment that was negative as there was too much vinaigrette.

We opted to split the added caviar course (35pounds) and I must say it is a whole presentation and plating that will wow. There is a ton of Umai Tibetan farmed caviar that is brined for a week and then aged in sub-zero temps. It sat on a bed of seaweed custard (that reminded me of chawanmushi) and then doused with an intensely strong bone marrow reduction which sadly overwhelmed the caviar as I really wanted to taste it more. A gorgeous croissant was on the side.

Line caught Cornish cod from Newlyn was next with fennel and roasted green chilis (which were English so not very spicy after the first kick of pepper!) with seaweed all steamed in horseradish butter. It was indeed a fish of perfection. We had to switch to red as the fab white was gone and it actually worked quite well!

Number 9 was Agnolotti of king oyster mushrooms and sweetbreads as well as the mushrooms in a compressed form (the FB picture shows the discs) and served with a pea puree with white garlic a tad of mint gel, asparagus and mushrooms and a lamb reduction. parker house rolls accompanied, but I could eat no more than a teeny bite of the roll. This was a pasta to remember indeed.

The main or #10 was Saddle and fillet of Cumbrian lamb cooked to perfection and oh so tender with tandoori cauliflower, puffed quinoa, garlic flowers and cauliflower puree. The lamb jus was with mustard seed and honey!  Our red was simply perfect!

We opted to skip the cheese course as the meal was about to enter its 5th hour, and we were beyond full.

Fake Strawberry leaves arrived in the pre-dessert with sorbet of sheep's milk yogurt in between making a sandwich.

Course #11 was the "British Trifle" or Chef Adam's take which was shaved frozen Scottish strawberries (it had a granita effect) over meadowsweet biscuit with long pepper custard. We met Charlotte, the pastry shave, and could not stop raving!

A post-dessert also arrived in the form of Poppyseed madeleines to spread with gooseberry jam and meadowsweet cream (a scone style prep, but lighter), which sent us on our happy way- a 3 block walk back to the hotel and bed!

Always a great dining experience in the UK with Chef Adam Handling!

Des Moines HARBINGER hits the jackpot again! (7-6-25)

 I have returned to Des Moines regularly for the Des Moines Metro Opera festival every July and we try to keep one night free to eat at Harbinger as it is so innovative and tasty.

Last night I went over there after the matinee, took a seat at the bar (as I was alone) and decided to splurge on the $150 tasting menu; boy was it worth every cent!

Garrett at the bar poured a glass of Erbaluce di Caluso from Bruno Giacometti which was a mineral-intense white that I loved. It was great with the Amuse of Beef fat brushed potato topped with A-5 Wagyu tartare, scallions and a black garlic aioli. It was mean and lean and spicy too from a Kosho powder that I loved (apparently $40 a bottle!).

Next came the Spicy Scallop Crudo Onigiri with nectarine, carrot, ginger all wrapped in a rice which was coated with Furikake spice on one side. OMG, it just kept getting better with every bite. I switched whites as Devon, who was helping at the bar, let me taste the Teutonic 2023 Gewürztraminer from Corw Valley Vineyard in Oregon. This tasted like no other white and paired wonderfully as well with all the dishes. 

Squash Blossoms were next stuffed with Blue Prawns in Chili Vinegar, Salted Cucumber and flowering cilantro (which I thought at first was fennel!). Again, the spice was just right with all the food flavors melding into a great bite and mouth feel. Green Curry Spring Peas followed with superb tasting fresh peas in a coconut emulsion, a lite curry and a squid ink tuile on top for crunch and fun.

The Potatoes (mash & crispy slices) were with a rich Iowa Tama Miso made from the leftover poached whey from homemade cheese and mixed with buttermilk making it extremely rich and decadent. I was grateful for a rest (the meal took almost 3 hours) and decided to switch to a Ver Sacrum GSM blend from Argentina which was a full-bodied red that I also loved. 

Halibut came wrapped in Summer Squash on a crispy tasty, charred zucchini cake with zombie tomatoes(dehydrated and rehydrated), a red curry emulsion and tomato oil. A truly fabulous delicate fish treated with great respect.

The "main" was Sakura Family Wagyu Bavette that was rare and just salted and divine. Blistered red onions on the side tasted almost pickled and there was a Strawberry Soubise with Bicycle Radish, turnips and turnip puree. 

The dessert was a great combination of different things on one small plate. Strawberry Shortcake from Chef Jordan's grandmother's recipe with his own twist came with Compte, peppercorn bavarois and meringue. 

Every bite all night was a treat and that is another reason that Des Moines is on our list every summer(besides the fab opera festival!).

--

Brooklyn's COLONIA VERDE in Ft. Greene -you have to go (6-13-25)

 I had one night in Brooklyn's Ft. Greene neighborhood attending an opera (which was WOW!!) and chose Colonia Verde which is an unassuming spot several steps off the main drag with some outdoor seats in the front, a bar and front room and then a cooler back space with a glass ceiling and behind it a garden dining are surrounded by park and trees. I had no clue I was anywhere near the city!

There are lots of choices and I knew I had an opera so kept it simple starting with the Trout Ceviche with Leche de tigre, crispy quinoa and cilantro. My server suggested the tostadas for the ceviche which was a genius move. They really should come with it, but the kick-ass spice was ideal, and the tostadas were crunchy and tasty with the amazing local Hudson River trout! A glass of Domaine Migot Cotes de Toul Vin Gris Rose from Lorriane 2024 made from Pinot Noir & Gamay was a super dry rose.

I could not resist the Duck Confit Tacos which were gorgeous tortillas filles with moist confit, chihuahua cheese, avocado, cilantro and pickled onions. The super spicy habanero creamy salsa was divine. At this point a child at the other end of the room had decided it was time for an aversion and the screaming was crazy until one parent took them out. There were lots of families with kids as well as so many different types of diners across the board as this neighborhood is so varied and welcoming., but loud kids are not for me.

I loved the blonde knotted wood tables and brick floors and the great service and huge wine list as well. This was a place I could come to ALL THE TIME.

I was not quite full so got a great cup of coffee and the "Little Piece of Brazil" a fab dessert of yucca/coconut cake with coconut cream, whipped cream on top and lime zest that was so superbly refreshing. 

I have no clue when I might be back in this 'hood, but Colonia Verde is on my radar.

DC's PAPPE is perfect for fiery Indian (6/2/25)

 We were down near Thomas Circle for an event last Monday and wanted to grab a bite afterwards, so chose PAPPE, which has been there for ages apparently, but I had never heard of. This small Indian spot has a bar and comfy tables with a muted and calm atmosphere. The service from Victor and the staff was attentive and helpful in deciding what to eat. If you ask for spicy, you WILL get it that way for sure!

Sam & I tried the PINKY UP with Blackleaf Vodka, Elderleaf Liqueur, Cucumber, Pomegranate and Lemon which was a delicious refreshing choice that was not sweet at all.

The wine list is short and reasonable, and I loved the Messanges Cabernet Franc from Domaine de Pallus 2002 which worked well with the spicy food.

We started with Samosas which came with both mint & chutney sauces underneath and were very good. The Gobi Manchurian Indo-Chinese Cauliflower (what a geographical mouthful) was nice and spicy and came with scallions and sesame seeds (which Victor put on the side since I can't eat them).

The Garlic Na'an was delish and indeed VERY garlicky. Sam loved it with his Zucchini Kofta Curry which was also a spicy fried zucchini ball with a besan/yogurt sauce/mustard seeds/ ginger and green chili--great for mopping up with na'an!

The Wild Shrimp Coconut Curry had large head on Carolina Shrimp in Black Mustard, Ginger, Green Chili, and a tamarind broth that was superb. The mains came with rice which sopped up the fabulous sauce. The Fiery Lamb Vindaloo was VERY fiery with Loamb Goan in a rich thick sauce.

No room for dessert, but a great meal had by all!!

James Beard Chef MASAKO MORISHITO cooks it up with her Mom at PERRY'S in DC(5-30-25)

 As soon as I got the invite from RESY offering seatings at their "Dream Team" dinner at Perry's I had to sing up. The program organized by RESY asks chefs across the country who they would like to cook with and then offers limited seatings of chef's dinner with the Dream Teams! I had been reading about Chef MASAKO MORISHITA and her amazing rise and then her James Beard Award last year but had not had the time get myself to Perry's. This event nailed that, and boy will I be back again! Chef Morishita chose her own mother, Ryoko Morishita, whom Resy flew in from Japan for the week to create this magnificent meal.

I was at the 630pm seating (another was at 830pm) and the restaurant was only 1/4 full with about 24 diners. Video cameras, photographers and folks with microphones and such were all over as the two chefs were introduced and Chef Morishita spoke about how her mom would always make her feel great when she was down and that was with her comfort food cooking at home; she was in tears and we all choked up, but then sat down to an amazing meal!

Each course was paired with a sake, and they were all fab starting with Hakkaisan Clear Sparkling "Awa White Koji" Nigata that came with three "amuses:"

1)a simple raw Hokkaido scallop was sliced and served with kombu so that the creamy rich scallop shined

2)Petite Ganmodoki was a fried tofu cake with scallop, Japanese Yam, Seasonal vegetables and ginger soy sauce that was super tasty and loaded with flavors, but my only regret was that it was a tad hard to eat in one bite with chopsticks!

3)Gyu Suji Nikomi was a stew of Wagyu tendons in Sake Soy Glaze which was also a delicious cut even if there were some small fatty pieces mixed in that I simply tried to avoid (one must watch one's figure).

Probably my favorite dish of the evening was TAKARABUKURO which was a Tofu Skin "Treasure Bag" filled with chicken, seasonal vegetables (carrots, gingko beans, lotus and more) in Morishita's House Dashi, which simply alone had to be the best dashi ever.

Gozensho Omachi Bodaimoto "1859" Junmai Okoyama sake was another treat.

Wagyu Yaki Shabu was next with a super tender Kagoshima A5 Ribeye in Warishita (a tamari-style sauce, but more Umami) Sauce and Jidori Egg. The barely cooked meat was sliced like carpaccio, topped with gold leaf and accompanied by fried tofu topped with black truffles as an added treat! Kiki Masamune Taru Junmai Hyogo was the paired sake.

Madai Goma Chazuke was a superb Japanese Sea Bream (also known as Black Porgie) with sesame, Koshihikari Rice, Dashi & Fresh Wasabi. The rice was so rich that I was happy to have the pickled celery and carrot to offset it! Who knew rice could be so fabulous and rich, yet so simple. There was a hint of sweetness to the dashi and the paired Dewazakura Junmai Ginjo Omachi "Jewel Brocade" Yamagata was a perfect foil.

Dessert was as simple and fun and comfort-y as it gets: Midori Cream Soda was Vanilla gelato in Soda with Midori (melon liqueur) and so light and fun it was impossible not to finish it! 

Kudos to the whole team and my server Devon who kept making sure I was happy. I WAS!

What great fun indeed! Can't wait to get back to Perry's!

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